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VOLUME  I. 


YEAR  IN  EUROPE. 


COMPRISING 


^  ^(DiirjBi^^ii  m^  (mm^imsi.'i^m^^ 


ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND,  IRELAND,  FRANCE,  SWITZERLAND, 
THE  NORTH  OF  ITALY,  AND  HOLLAND. 

In  1818  and  1819. 
BY  JOHN  GRISCOM, 

•nOFEiaOR  OF  CHEMISTRY  AND  NATURAL  PH1L080FHY  IN  THE  N.  YORK  INSTITD- 
TION  ;      MEMBER  OF  THE  LIT.  AJJD  PHIL.  SOCIETY  OF  NEW-TOKK,  &C. 

LY  TWO  VOLUMES. 
VOL.  I. 

''1   RriSHED  BY  COLLINS  &  CO.  AND  E.  BLISS  &  E.  WHITE,  N.  YORK: 
H.  C.  CAREV  &  J.  LSA-,  Pa2LADE^^PB(I>■.?,s*3^l^>    • 

WELLS  &  LILLET  bOSTOli;/     ;  ',.•'     \     ' 

Printed  by  A  Paul,  72  JVastau-sireet. 


<i8Si 


Southern  District  of  JVero-  York,  ss. 
BE  {T  REMEMBERED,  Ihat  on  the  sixth  day  of  August,  in  the  fortyeightUyear  of  tlie 
iudependeace  of  the  United  States  of  America,  John  Oriscom,  of  the  said  district,  hath  deposi 
ted  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims  as  Author,  in  the  words  fol- 
lowing, to  wit: 

"  A  Year  in  Europe,  comprising  a  Journal  of  Observations  in  England,  Scotland,  Ireland 
France,  Switzerland,  the  North  of  Italy,  and  Holland,  in  1818  and  1819.    By  John  Griscom, 
Professor  of  Chemistry  and  Natural  Philosophy  in  the  New-York  Institution  j  Member  of  the 
Literary  and  Philosophical  Society  of  New- York,  &c.     In  Two  Volumes." 
In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled  "  an  Act  for  the  en- 
couragement of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,   and  Books  to  the  author.^ 
and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time   therein  mentioned."     And  also  to  an  Act,  enti- 
tled  "  an  Act,  supplemcntaey  to  an  Act,  entitled  aa  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by 
securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing, 
enjraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

JAMES  DILL,  Clerk  of  the  Southern  District  of  JVerc- York. 


PREFACE. 

-»<s« 

The  relations  between  America  and  Europe  are  be- 
coming every  day  more  interesting  and  important. 
The  unexampled  rapidity  with  which  the  commerce, 
agriculture,  and  arts  of  the  United  States  are  extend- 
ing and  increasing;  the  extraordinary  facilities  now 
given  to  the  social  intercourse  between  the  new  and 
the  old  world ;  and  the  unabated  spirit  of  enterprize 
and  industry,  which  prevails  in  many  parts  of  Europe: 
conspire  to  render  these  relations  a  concern  of  the 
greatest  moment, — as  tending,  in  no  inconsiderable 
degree,  to  influence  the  tranquillity  and  happiness  of 
a  large  portion  of  the  civilized  globe. 

Under  such  circumstances,  it  must  be  considered, 
by  persons  conversant  with  human  nature,  as  ex- 
tremely desirable,  that  the  people  on  each  side  of  the 
Atlantic,  should  become  more  intimately  and  perfectly 
acquainted  with  each  other ;  for  it  may,  perhaps,  be 
stated  as  a  political,  as  well  as  social  axiom,  that  the 
greater  the  intimacy,  the  greater  probability  of  a  cor- 
dial and  pacific  union ; — that  many  of  the  rancorous 
jealousies  and  deep  rooted  prejudices,  which  are  so 
apt  to  prevail  between  nations,  as  well  as  sects  and 
neighbourhoods,  would  soften  into  kindness,  were 
opportunities  afforded  of  studying  the  bright  as  well 
as  the  dark  sides  of  each  other's  character.  And  it  re- 
quires but  little  ingenuity  to  perceive,  that  were  there 
between  nations  a  pervading  sense  of  each  other's 
merits,  and  a  just  feeling  for  each  other's  prosperity, 
it  would  be  infinitely  more  difl[icult  for  the  disaffected 

Tor.  I.  A  2 


VI  PREFACE. 

to  bring  about  that  condition  of  things,  which  is  the 
most  disastrous  to  human  improvement,   a  state  of 
open  warfare, — and  infinitely  more  easy  to  suppres? 
the  evil  when  it  did  prevail. 

From  these  considerations  it  will  be  admitted,  thai 
books  of  travels,  when  written  under  the  proper  quali- 
fications, are  among  the  most  useful  kinds  of  literature ; 
—that  they  furnish  the  principal  means  by  which  dis- 
tant communities  and  nations  become  acquainted  with 
each  other's  peculiarities,  by  which  the  useful  arts 
are  extended,  and  morals  and  manners  are  rendered 
more  diffused  and  impressive. 

It  will  be  admitted  also,  that  however  beaten  the 
track  over  which  travellers  may  have  passed,  it  is 
impossible  to  exhaust  the  stores  of  useful  illustration, 
or  to  overcharge  the  picture  of  national  and  local  re- 
presentation, as  long  as  truth  and  feeling  guide  the 
hand  and  qualify  the  pencil.  It  can  never  be  said  of 
the  describer  of  nature,  and  more  especially  of  hu- 
man nature,  as  it  may  of  the  orator  who  confines  him- 
self to  some  particular  topic,  that  he  has  left  nothing  to 
be  desired.  So  vast  is  the  field  of  humanity,  and  so  in- 
finite are  the  shades  which  diversify  the  moral  condi- 
tion of  the  human  race,  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  for 
two  individuals  to  follow  each  other  in  the  same,  pre- 
cise track  of  description.  Not  only  do  different  ob- 
servers see  the  same  thing  in  different  points  of  view, 
but  each  one  has  his  particular  sphere  of  observation, 
and  will  almost  unavoidably  throw  some  new  light 
upon  the  subjects  he  attempts  to  elucidate.  Hence 
every  person  who  visits  a  foreign  country  will  at  once 
perceive,  that,  how  diligent  soever  he  may  have  been 
in  studying  that  country  through  the  medium  of  books, 
^there  is  a  continual  variety  of  untouched  descrip- 


PREFACE.  VII 

tion,  aiid  that  a  small  part  only  of  the  whole  has 
been  laid  before  him. 

But  notwithstanding  these  obvious  truths,  the  Au- 
thor cannot  assure  himself,  that,  even  by  the  most  re- 
flecting and  liberal-minded  readers,  he  will  be  deemed 
to  have  acted  wisely  in  exposing  his  sheets  to  the 
public  eye.  His  journey  was  by  no  means  undertaken 
with  a  fixed  intention  of  exhibiting  its  occurrences 
beyond  the  circle  of  his  family  and  friends.  The  mo- 
tives to  the  voyage,  were  the  renovation  of  impaired 
health,  and  the  hope  of  spending  a  short  time  in  Eu- 
rope, both  profitably  and  agreeably.  The  rapidity 
with  which  the  journey  was  performed,  and  the  mul- 
tiplicity of  objects  which  engaged  his  attention,  pre- 
vented him  from  doing  little  more,  while  travelling, 
than  to  bestow  a  faithful  attention  to  his  note  book ; 
and  since  his  return,  other  unavoidable  avocations 
have  delayed  the  filling  up  of  the  outline ;  but  this 
delay,  he  trusts,  has  not  been  without  its  benefit,  in 
the  further  development  which  time  has  given  to 
some  features  of  the  narrative. 

The  writer  is  aware  that  "  A  Year  in  Europe,"  in 
two  volumes,  thick  octavo,  may  possibly  startle  the 
cautious  reader,  and  induce  him  to  infer,  that  it  either 
contains  a  great  deal  of  fanciful  speculation,  upon 
things  hastily  seen  ;  or  that  it  consists  of  a  prosing 
detail  of  what  most  persons  already  know.  He  also 
recollects  the  jocose  threat  of  a  venerable  philo- 
sopher in  Milan,  who,  in  pleasantly  reproaching  him 
for  staying  so  short  a  time  in  that  city,  and  in  advert- 
ing to  the  superficial  habits  and  statements  of  many 
travellers,  said :  *'  If  you  go  home  and  make  a  book, 
I  will  publish  in  the  journals  of  Italy,  that  you  were 
in  the   city  of  Milan  only  three  days!"     But  not- 


Vm  PREFACE. 

withstanding  the  danger  on  both  hands, — of  being 
either  too  dull  or  too  fanciful, — the  Author  would  sug- 
gest to  those  who  think  that  the  size  of  the  work  is 
disproportionate  to  the  period  of  the  journey,  the  re- 
flection, that  in  nothing  is  it  possible  to  avail  one's 
self  of  the  advantages  of  industry,  to  a  greater  extent, 
than  in  travelling : — that,  as  it  is  very  easy  to  spend 
months,  and  even  years,  in  a  single  place,  without 
exhausting  the  subjects  of  inquiry, — so  is  it  possible 
by  activity  and  diligence,  to  see  and  learn  much  in 
a  very  limited  time. 

The  objects  which  primarily  engaged  the  writer's 
attention,  were  literary  and  benevolent  institutions, 
prisons,  manufactories,  and  distinguished  works  of 
art;  and,  as  far  as  opportunities  were  afforded,  cha- 
racters connected  with  such  labours  of  utility  and 
philanthropy.  Morals  and  religion  were  topics  at 
all  times  interesting,  and  were  not  overlooked,  when 
occasions  presented  for  observation  and  inquiry.  On 
the  subject  of  institutions,  the  Author  believes  he  has 
been  more  full  than  any  preceding  American  traveller 
in  Europe.  This  part  of  his  descriptions  may  appear 
to  some  readers,  to  have  introduced  a  tautology  of 
narration  that  had  better  been  avoided.  But,  regard- 
ing public  institutions,  as  among  the  most  intelligible 
evidences  of  the  genius  and  character  of  a  people,  he 
thought  it  right  to  omit  nothing  in  the  details  to  the 
reader,  which  he  deemed  it  important  to  notice  in 
order  to  satisfy  his  own  inquiries.  He  has  only  to 
express  the  hope,  that  the  peculiarities  both  of  sub-, 
jcct  and  of  style,  which  may  be  perceived  to  have 
arisen  from  the  nature  of  his  associations,  will  be 
readily  excused  by  the  candid  reader. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  L 


— "'Y^'Vft— 


PAGK 

LETTER  I.— Voyag:e  to  England 9 

LETTER  IL— Liverpool.— Custom  House— blind  school— W.  Ros- 
coe — Nelson's  monument — Liverpool  Institution — fund  for  pre- 
venting impositions — society  of  Friends — extensive  commerce — 
increase  of  population — Athenaeum  and  Lyceum — botanic  garden 
— gas  light — hour  of  dining — hospitality 25 

LETTER  III. — Journey  to  Manchester. — Appearance  of  the  town 
— manufactures — glazing  house — printing  factory.  Ardwick. — 
cutting  velvets — J.  Dal  ton — Dr.  Henry — counterfeit  products — 
infirmary  and  lunatic  asylum — hotels — public  baths — Chetham's 
hospital — collegiate  church — ^public  amusements — population — 
science  and  learning — philosophical  society — Lancasterian  school 
— Sunday  schools — peculiarities  in  dialect 38 

LETTER  IV.— Journe\  to  Birmingham.— Litcbfield—Dr.  Darwin— 
Uttoaceter^stage  company — arrival  atBiRMi>;GHAM — factories — 
buttons — tea-trays — sautf-boxes — literary  institutions — top  of  the 
coach — Warwick — coachmen — Blenheim — Oxford — general  ap- 
pearance— beautiful  walks— colleges — libraries— students'  dress — 
immorality — chalk,  flint — agriculture— population — Henley — suc- 
cession of  villages — aiTival  in  London 53 

IjETTER  V. — London. — first  impressions — yearly  meeting  of  the 
society  of  Friends — British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society — Lord 
Teignmouth — Sir  Joseph  Banks — conversations — Sir  Humphrey 
Davy — House  of  Commons — Westminster  Abbey — coui-t  of  chan- 
cery— speakers  in  Parliament — W.  Wilberforce — Sir  S.  Romilly 
-=— H.  Brougham — Lord  Castlereagh — Canning,  &ic. — reporters — 
luncheons — king's  birth  day — anniversary  of  British  and  Foreign 
School  Society — exhibition  of  the  children — Duke  of  Sussex — 
dinner — Benjamin  West — his  galleries — bazaar  in  Soho  square.       65 

f  jETTER  VI. — LoNDON.^-countr}"  seats — Chingford  church — proro- 
gation of  Parliament — procession — state  coach,  and  other  equipa- 
ges— Seneca  Indians — British  Museum — its  endowment  and  con- 
tents— Royal  Academy  of  painting — West — TmmbuU — Alston 
— Leslie — Newton — annual  exhibition — its  academicians  and  lec- 
tures— Day's  collection — Tottenham,  mineralogy  and  meteorology 
— Rundle  &  Bridge — diamonds  and  jewels — menagerie  at  Exeter 
Change— British  Gallery  in  Pall-Mall— Bullock's  Museum—West- 
minster gas  factory — the  Tower  and  its  various  contents — Bo- 
rough road  school — Joseph  Lancaster — charity  children  in  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral — Society  of  Arts,  Adelphi — panorama  of  Athens 
— city  election  at  Guildhall — British  freedom — "iVest  and  East  In- 
dia docks — Isle  of  Dogs — Suri^j'  Institution — Sowerby's  JVIuseum 
— Greenwich — the  hospital  for  invalids — Royal  Observatory — 
J.  Pond — the  apparatus — large  camera  obscura — deaf  and  dumb 
school — Dr.  Watson — school  for  the  bhnd — Philanthropic  Society 
its  buildings  and  operations — Chelsea  hospital — Chantrey,  and  his 
elegant  sculpture — Ijinwood  collection  of  pictures  in  worsted — 
London  institution — dinner  of  the  Royal  Society  at  Greenwich — 
Bond-street — Dubourg's  models — P.  Colquhoun — Dr.  Fothergill's 


CONTENTS. 

PAQK 

countrj'  seat — Elizabeth  Fry — chemical  factory  at  Stratford — 
Coade  &  Sealy's  artificial  marble — printing  by  steam — British  and 
Foreign  School  Society — l^uke  of  Sussex — visit  to  Newgate  with 
Elizabeth  Fry — Westminster  election — hackney  coaches — Lon- 
don streets — pavements — female  degradation — splendour  of  the 
shops — supply  of  water — drajnagc — jiopulation  of  London — mar- 
kets— meat  shops — public  squares — royal  parks 8G 

liETTER  VIL— Departure  fiom  London.— Weather— Hounslow— 
large  wagons — Slough — Sir  W.  Herschell — large  telescope — con- 
versation— Windsor  Castle — the  King — furniture — Windsor  park 
— Eton  college — W  iltshire — Whitehorse  hill — Bow  wood — bar- 
rows. Bath. — population — buildings — i)ump  room — institutions 
— sedan  chairs — good  roads — broad  wheels.  Bristol. — Redclilf 
church — cathedral — charities  of  Bristol — thatched  cottage — fine 
views — hot  wells — R.  Reynolds — Dr.  Pritchard — commerce — 
river  Avon — improvements  in  navigation — Clifton 14C 

LETTER  Vin.— Barlev-Wood  Coir  age.— Hannah  More— her 
conversation,  &c. — Wrington — Langford  inn — provincial  dialect 
of  Somersetshire — Bridgwater — its  antiquity — Taunton — cob  cot- 
tages— potwallopers — Honiton.  Exfter — cathedral — goal  and 
bridewell — Haldon  hill — fine  view — Totness — Ivy-Bridge — Ply- 
mouth— large  ships — cost — Leskard — emigration  to  America — 
Cornwall.  Truro. — Carpet  manufactory — smelting  of  tin — tin 
ore — revenue — Bumcoose 169 

l^ETTER  IX.~CoRNWALL.— MiMNG-united  mines—mining  captains 
— raising  the  ore — different  ores — veins  or  loads — underlie— depth 
of  mines — mine  under  the  sea — products  of  mines — profit  and  loss 
— structure  of  mines — steam  engines — adits — support  of  the  sides 
and  roof — labour  of  mining — morality  of  the  miners — Scorrier — 
mineralogical  cabinet — geology  of  Cornwall — antiquity  of  the  tin 
mines — statistics — quantity  of  mett.1  and  value  of  the  mines — 
Falmouth. — R.  W  .  Fox — Truro  philosophical  s(x;iety — Redruth 
— Grampound — St.  Austel — Polgooth — antiquities  of  Cornwall — 
manners.  Plymouth  dock  yard — market — varieties  of  fish — 
Mount  Edgecumbe — Breakwater — smuggling — Dartmoor.  Exe- 
ter— mine  of  manganese — literaiy  and  philosophical  institution — 
hospital — insane  hospital — antiquity — agriculture  of  Devon — cider 
— Honiton — Mere — Fonthill — W.  Bcckford.  Salisbury — ca- 
thedral.     Southampton 18'i 

LETTER  X. — SouTHAMPTo>. — Canute's  lesson  of  humility — passage 
to  Cowes — Netley  Abbey — Cowes — Newport — Carisbrook  castle 
— southern  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Wight — picturesque  scenery — 
Niton — small  church — seat  of  Earl  Dysart — Shanklin — Brading — 
Ryde.  Portsmouth — dockyard — dry  dock — block  machinery — 
Brunei — circular  saws — Chhhtstcr — Collins'  monument — Gothic 
cross — ingenious  charity — Arundel — Wortliing.  Brighto. — 
Population — sea-bathing — shampooing — use  of  donkeys — packets 
for  France 1     ...     223 

LETTER  XI. — Passage  to  Dieppe. — Alderman  Wood — French  sail- 
ors and  gens-d'armes — examination  at  custom  house — beggars — 
church — Normandy  cap — female  barber — ^journey  to  Rouen— 
suspended  lamps — cathedral  of  Rouen — convent  or  nunnery — 
table  d'hote — Mount  St.  Catherine — bridge  of  boats — French  di- 
ligence— route  to  Paris — chalk  formation — vineyards — Marly  wa- 
ter works — attachment  to  Bonaparte — preference  to  Americans — 
entrance  of  Paris — Sabbath  evening — Elysian  fields — Meurice's 
hotel — garden  of  Thuilleries — female  delicacy — museum  of  the 
Louvre — statuary — picture  gallery — pent  des  arts — ascent  of  Ma- 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

dame  Blanchard — fiacres  and  cabriolets — Abbe  Gaultier — Count 
I'Asteyrie — Garden  of  Plants — Dr.  Gall's  lectures — village  of  St. 
Denys — Montmorency — MontTnartre — attack  of  the  Allies  on 
Paris — telegraph — Institute,  its  sittings — Luxemburg — paintings 
and  garden — meeting  with  Friends — plam  dress — Adet — Four- 
croy's  sisters — Abb4  Haiiy — his  cabinet — ride  to  St.  Cloud — the 
palace  and  garden — Versailles — palace  and  garden — play  of  the 
fountains — the  water  works — Grand  and  Petit  Trianon — Vauque- 
lin — fSte  of  St.  Louis — vast  concourse — singular  amusements — 
balloon — illuminations — Bishop  Gregoive — Gymnastic  school — 
school  of  mines — museum  of  French  monuments — fountain  of  the 
elephant — Charles'  philosophical  apparatus — cemetery  of  Pere  la 
Chaise — Institut  Academique — Fr^res  de  la  religion  Chretienne 
— Professor  Berzelius — J.  Owen — Gay  Lussac — caffes  and  restau- 
rateurs— river  Seine — sale  of  books — caricatures — Boulevards — 
various  shows— crowded  streets — manner  of  keeping  the  Sabbath 
— state  of  religion  and  morals 23t^ 

LETTER  XIL — Departure  from  Paris — Essonne.  Fontainebleau 
— the  forest — gardens  and  palace — Nemours — Montargis — the 
Loire — Cosne — cannon  founderj' — female  influence — LaCharite — 
Nevers — mendicity — Moulins — fine  country — wooden  shoes — nuts 
— agriculture — use  of  oxen — St.  Geraud — Roanne — mode  of  spin- 
ning in  the  fields — Mount  Tarare — Puy  de  Dome — Tarare — ex- 
tortion at  inns — mine  of  Chessy — La  Tour — arrival  at  Lyons — 
Rhone  and  Soane — amusements — museum — La  Fourvieres — hos- 
pital Antiquailles — Notre  Damede  Fourvieres — chapel  of  St.  Just 
— Catholic  procession — silk  manufactory — metropolitan  church — 
curious  clock — a  dinner — streets  and  appearance  of  Lyons — an- 
cient mosaic — La  Charite — Foundling  hospital — general  hospital 
— college  of  Lyons — ancient  aqueduct — republican  cruelties — 
road  to  Geneva — Nantua — opinions  respecting  Bonaparte — Perte 
du  Rhone.  Geneva. — Mouhnier — sectarian  divisions — table  d'hote 
— Rans  de  Vache — Professor  Fictet — Dr.  Marcet 202 

LETTER  XIIL— Geneva.— Professor  de  Candolle— Mad.  Vernet— 
jaunt  to  Chamouny — Savoy — Bonneville — valley  of  the  Arve — su- 
blime scenery — water  falls — St.  Martin — Salenche— evening,  and 
distant  view  of  Mount  Blanc — Char-a-Banc — St.  Gervais — Ser- 
voz — Roman  chateau — Chamouny — Glacier  de  Bosson — tender- 
ness of  the  guides — passage  of  the  ice — the  Priur^ — hotels — col- 
lections of  minerals  and  plants — ascent  to  La  Flegere — Panoramic 
view  of  Mount  Blanc — Avalanches — Glaciere  de  Bois — icy  cavern 
— disaster — Mount  Blanc  covered  with  ice — simplicity  of  manners 
— natural  history  of  Mount  Blanc — return  to  Geneva — president 
Vernet  and  family — professor  Prevost — new  literary  institution — 
professor  Jurine  and  his  cabinet — academy  of  painting — models  of 
the  Alps — Mrs.  Marcet — Alderman  Wood — evening  party  at  pro- 
fessor Pic tets— credulity — arrival  of  two  English  companions.     •     334 

IjETTER  XIV. — Geneva. — Insane  asylum — prison — pauperism — 
school  of  mutual  instruction — departure — fine  scenery  on  the  lake 
— Coppet — Madame  de  Stael — Rolle — Morges.  Lausanne. — 
Benevolent  English  lady — prison — support  of  the  poor — education, 
savings  banks — road  to  Vevey — superior  vineyards — Vevey — ex- 
cursion on  the  lake — castle  Chillon — numerous  clocks — dress  of 
the  peasants — agriculture — Bulle — convent  of  capuchins,  unclean- 
1}'  and  idle — Gruyere.  FRrEuno. — Chanoine  Fontaine — interest- 
ing conversation — Pere  Girard — museum  of  paintings,  &c. — edu- 
cation— hospital  of  Friburg — cretins — Jesuits'  College — opposition 
to  Pere  Girard — situation  of  Friburg — canton  of  Berne— -curious 


CONTENTS. 

PAG£ 
costume.  Bkrke. — Female  exerciseB — Dr.  Wyttenbach — libra- 
ry and  museum — HalJer — hospital  of  Berne — road  to  Hofwyl — 
establishment  of  Emniauuel  de  Fellenberg- — Vehrly — importance 
of  such  a  system  of  instruction — count  de  Villevielle — village  of 
Riechenbach — beauties  of  Berne — Arburg — lake  Bienne  and  J.  J. 
Rousseau — merriment  of  the  vintage — manner  of  collecting  the 
grapes — St.  Blaise — IVeufchatel — secretary  MontmoUin — captain 
Courant — hospital — wine  press — public  spirited  citizens — merce- 
nary soldiers — ascent  of  the  Jura — extensive  watch  factory — 
Chaux-de-fond — trade  in  watches — Locle — M.  Houriet — charity 
school — aqueduct  cut  through  a  mountain— descent  of  the  Jura — 
Yverdun — Pestallozi  and  his  institution ;  his  character — Lausanne 

— return  to  Geneva — Simond  de  Sismondi 36 1 

fiETTER  XV. — Genkva. — Public  voitures — pledges  of  a  bargain,  or 
arrhes — laws  and  government  of  Switzerland — professor  Pictet — 
bibliotheque  universei — beauties  of  Geneva — mechanical  ingenu- 
ity— departure  for  Milan — Thonon — Ripaille — Vivian — St.  Ging- 
oulph — canton  of  La  Valais — St.  Maurice — a  hermitage — credul- 
ity— murder  of  the  Theban  legion — cascade  of  the  Pissevache — 
Martigny — great  devastation  by  a  sudden  flood — Goitre.  Sion. 
— Hospital — companions  in  the  Voiture — Glis — church  and  char- 
nel-house— Brieg — ascent  of  the  Simplon — Napoleon  route — Geo- 
logy— village  of  Simplon — galleries — excellence  of  the  road — 
Domo  D'Ossola — Catholic  superstition — Fariola — Lake  Mag- 
giore — Borromean  islands — Isola  Bella—colossal  statue  of  Borro- 
meus — Sesto — G  allerate — church  and  ceremony  at  Rho — arrival 

at  Milan — superb  view  from  the  cathedral 42u 

LETTER  XVI.— Milan.— The  great  hospital— surgeon  Moriji — the 
foundling  hospital — the  grand  Duomo,  its  dimensions — statuary — 
tomb  of  St.  Charles — his  character — Monti,  the  poet — the  nauma- 
chia — the  echo — triumphal  arch — picture  of  the  Lord's  Supper — 
the  Zecca,  or  mint — count  Moscati — the  Brera — astronomical 
observatory — library — Acerbi — the  prison — school  of  Mines — 
hospital  of  Trivulzi — Ambrosian  library — Angelo  Mai,  his  disco- 
veries— Petrarch's  copy  of  Virgil — dress  of  the  Milanese — mendi- 
city— population — departure  for  Pavia — canal — church  of  Certusa 
— Pavia — the  university,  professors,  and  course  of  instruction — the 
hospital — towers — river  Ticino — the  Po — stage  company — a  Ci- 
cisbeo — Voghere — out-door  work  of  women — poor  peasantry — 
plain  of  Marengo — Tortona — cultivation — fine  effect  of  the  Italian 
language — morals — passage  of  the  Appenines — Voltaggio — the 
Bochetta — Campomarone — fast  day — a  quarrel — arrival  at  Genoa 

— beautv  of  the  country  and  prospect 451* 

T-ETTER  XVII.— Genoa.— The  weather— English  family— a  steam- 
boat— the  university — its  classes — reading  room — light  house — 
palace  of  Doria — the  great  hospital — Maniacs — police  of  Genoa 
— church  of  St.  Andrews — San  Stephano — a  dinner — monks  and 
priests — small-pox — streets  of  Genoa — schools  for  deaf  and  dumb 
— palaces — Albergo  de  Poveri — statue  of  Michael  Angelo — cli- 
mate of  Genoa — markets — arbutus  unido — departure  for  Marseil- 
les in  a  steam-boat — the  crew — beautiful  scenery  of  the  coast — 
curiosity  excited — embarrassment — saline  d'hyere — the  sabbath — 
isles  d'hyeres — orangeries — fig-trees — entrance  of  Marseilles — 
surprise  at  seeing  a  steam-boat •     .     496 


A  YEAR  IN  EUROPE. 

LETTER   I. 

Ship  Pacific^  at  sea^  4ttk  month  (April)  Ith^  1818. 

My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

BY  the  pilot,  who  left  us  about  10,  a.  m.  yester- 
day, I  transmitted  a  short  account  of  our  progress 
from  the  time  of  leaving  you,  on  the  preceding  after- 
noon. We  had  just  finished  our  breakfast,  and  were 
beginning  to  experience  that  agitation  of  the  ship, 
which  generally  proves  so  distressing  to  novices  at 
sea.  We  took  our  dinner,  however,  at  4  o'clock,  (the 
regular  hour  on  board  our  ship)  and  remained  nearly 
all  the  afternoon  on  deck. 

The  wind  was  easterly,  but  not  so  much  ahead  as 
to  prevent  us  from  proceeding  directly  on  our  track. 
Sandy-Hook  and  the  adjacent  shores  of  New-Jersey 
and  Long  Island,  were  gradually  vanishing  from  the 
sight ;  but  the  high  land  of  Navesink  still  continued 
within  our  horizon  when  night  closed  upon  us.  The 
wind,  you  may  recollect,  had  blown  strongly  from  the 
east  for  several  days  before  our  departure.  The 
ocean  had  been  wrought  by  it,  into  an  irregular  bro- 
ken kind  of  movement,  the  effects  of  which,  upon  my 

Vol.  I.  1 


10  VOYAGE   TO  ENGLAND. 

system,  I  at  length  fouiul  it  impossible  to  resist.  1 
sought  repose  in  my  state-room  at  an  early  hour,  and 
passed  a  tolerably  comfortable  night. 

Upon  coming  on  deck  this  morning,  I  found  that 
we  were  fairly  launched  on  the  rotund  surface  of  the 
mighty  deep.  The  wind  had  veered  so  much  to  the 
northward,  as  to  enable  us  to  lay  our  course,  and  to 
advance  at  a  rapid  rate.  Several  vessels  left  the 
Hook  nearly  at  the  same  time  with  ourselves;  one  of 
them  was  bound  to  the  same  port;  but  the  superior 
sailing  of  our  ship,  especially  during  a  steady  and 
strong  breeze,  was  soon  observable. 

The  painful  and  most  distressing  sensation  of  sea- 
sickness continued  throughout  this  day,  so  as  to  de- 
prive me  of  all  real  enjoyment  of  the  majestic  scenery 
of  sky  and  ocean.  The  night  was  to  me  restless, 
feverish,  and  trying  in  the  extreme. 

8th.  I  was  confined  to  my  birth  most  of  the  day. 
The  wind  was  strong,  and  the  weather  cloudy.  The 
motion  of  the  ship  was  very  great ;  pitching  some- 
times with  tremendous  force  downwards,  as  if  plun- 
ging directly  into  the  bosom  of  a  mountain  wave ;  and 
then  darting  upwards  with  the  celerity  of  a  bird,  and 
rearing  her  bowsprit  to  the  skies.  The  force  of 
habit  upon  the  body  is  wonderful.  So  novel  were 
these  sensations  to  me,  and  so  distressing  to  my  whole 
frame,  that  as  I  lay  in  my  birth  to-day,  under  the 
effect  of  constant  and  irremediable  nausea,  I  felt  dis- 
posed to  condemn  commerce  altogether,  as  a  revolt 
against  nature  and  Providence,  and  almost  to  wish  I 
could  have  it  in  my  power,  on  getting  ashore,  to  put 
a  stop  to  navigation,  and  to  confine  people  on  terra 
firma,  where  they  might  enjoy  their  appetites.     But 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  1 1 

while  I  was  thus  harassed  and  enfeebled  by  a  most 
debiHtating  sickness,  our  sailors  were  not  only  alert 
on  the  deck,  but,  when  occasion  required  it,  even 
when  the  ship  was  most  violently  tossed,  would  run 
to  the  topmast,  spring  out  upon  the  yards,  reef  or 
unreef,  without  experiencing  any  emotion  of  the 
stomach,  except,  perhaps,  that  which  sharpens  the 
desire  for  food  and  drink. 

9th.  The  wind  continues  fair,  and  our  motion  rapid; 
but  the  weather  still  cloudy.  I  was  unable  to  enjoy 
the  society  of  my  fellow  passengers,  from  continued 
and  unabated  sickness.  I  spent  much  of  the  day  on 
deck,  sitting  wrapped  in  a  thick  coat  and  fur  cap,  indul- 
ging the  almost  forlorn  hope  that  things  would  mend. 

10th.  Still  proceeding  with  a  fine  breeze.  Abet- 
ter night ;  though  not  much  relief  has  been  obtained 
from  the  still  predominating  distress  of  the  stomach. 
Its  digestive  power  seems  to  be  lost;  and  whatever  is 
taken,  appears  to  ferment,  filling  the  mouth  with  a 
taste  like  that  of  impure  vmegar. 

This  afternoon  we  spoke  a  French  brig  from  Havre 
de  Grace,  sixty-one  days  out,  bound  to  New-York. 
This  was  the  first  incident  of  the  kind,  and  it  served 
in  some  measure  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  sick  days 
and  nights. 

11th.  The  wind  not  quite  so  high  as  it  has  been. 
The  ship  has  rather  less  motion;  but  food  has  little, 
or  no  relish.  We  have  been  floating  for  two  or  three 
days  in  the  gulf-stream,  in  which  the  temperature  of 
the  water,  as  we  have  proved  by  trial,  is  30°  higher 
than  it  is  just  beyond  its  limits.  That  such  a  vast 
current  of  water  should  perpetually  flow  from  the 
gulf  of  Mexico,  and  spread  itself  so  far  toward  the 
north  and  east,  appears  accountable  only  on  the  posi- 


12  VOYAGE  TO  ErCGLAND. 

tion,  that  the  trade  wuids  are  as  constantly  driving 
into  that  immense  basin  a  body  of  warm  water  from 
the  equatorial  region  of  the  Atlantic ;  which,  there 
accumulating,  finds  an  outlet  round  Cape  Florida, 
and  sets  to  the  northward  until  it  mixes  with  the 
water  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  The  warmth  of  the  air 
over  this  stream,  corresponds  with  that  of  the  water. 
Our  thermometer  has  been  at  70°.  This  heat  in- 
creases the  unpleasant  effluvium  of  the  ship,  relaxes 
the  system,  and  retards  recovery. 

12th.  We  had  a  fierce  gale  of  wind  in  the  night, 
accompanied  with  vivid  lightning  and  heavy  rain. 
The  sea  broke  over  the  ship  with  prodigious  force, 
and  appeared  as  a  continued  shower,  or  rather  storm, 
of  fire;  as  if  sparks  and  burning  cinders  from  a  neigh- 
bouring chimney  or  house  on  fire,  had  blown  directly 
across  the  deck.  This  was  owing  to  that  quality  in 
the  water  of  the  sea  called  phosphorescence  ;  which,  it  is 
known,  is  produced  by  various  marine  insects  of  dif- 
ferent sizes  and  species,  affording  light  of  various 
degrees  of  intensity  and  colour.  In  the  midst  of  the 
storm  a  phenomenon  occurred,  which  drew  the  atten- 
tion of  all  on  deck ;  and  which  is  so  seldom  seen,  that 
our  captain  does  not  distinctly  remember,  that  he  had 
ever  before  fairly  witnessed  it,  though  he  has  been 
a  seaman  more  than  twenty  years.  This  was  the  ap- 
pearance of  balls  of  fire,  resting  on  the  top  of  one  of 
the  masts,  and  on  the  ends  of  one  or  two  of  the  yards. 
The  sailors  call  them  corposants,*  They  exploded, 
shortly  after  their  first  appearance,  with  a  most  vivid 
splendour.  This  is  doubtless  an  electrical  effect, 
analogous  to  what  is  produced  in  a  small  way,  by  fixing 

*  Corpo  Santo.  Ital.  A  holy  body ;  from  their  being  formerly  considered 
ns  an  omen  of  a  prosperous  voyage. 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLASD.  13 

points  to  the  prime  conductor  of  a  machine  well  ex- 
cited ;  or,  by  presenting  a  pointed  body  to  the  con- 
ductor, when  the  machine  is  at  work  in  a  dark  room. 
On  such  occasions  as  this,  it  demonstrates  a  highly 
electrical  condition  of  the  atmosphere. 

Notwithstanding  the  violence  of  the  storm  and 
wind,  the  motion  of  the  ship  was  not  so  much  in- 
creased as  I  should  have  expected ;  but  this  was 
owing  to  her  being  kept  steadily  before  the  wind, 
which  happened  to  come  from  a  quarter  favourable 
to  our  direct  progress.  All  the  sails  were  taken  in 
before  the  storm  arrived  at  its  height;  but  not  until 
one  of  them,  (an  old  sail,)  had  been  split  to  pieces. 
Being  myself  too  ill  and  enfeebled  ta  leave  my  birth, 
to  witness  the  sublime  appearances  of  this  storm,  I 
am  indebted  to  my  very  intelligent  friend  and  fellow- 
passenger  Dr.  F.  who  remained  on  deck  during  the 
whole  of  it,  for  an  account  of  the  principal  pheno- 
mena. I  was  awake  while  it  lasted  :  but  felt,  as  it 
regards  personal  danger,  a  calmness  and  confidence 
for  which  I  desire  to  be  thankful. 

The  storm  blew  over,  and  the  sails  were  again 
set  before  sun-rise.  This  being  the  first  day  of  the 
week,  and  the  weather  having  cleared  up  pleasantly, 
it  was  proposed  to  the  passengers  assembled  on  the 
deck,  that  one  should  read  aloud  for  the  benefit  of 
the  rest.  This  being  readily  assented  to,  the  last 
of  Dr.  Chalmers's  discourses  was  read  by  a  Scotch 
gentleman,  vvho  informed  us  he  was  present  when 
they  were  delivered.  We  were  proceeding  to  read 
a  recent  sermon  by  the  same  author,  when  a  man  at 
the  mast-head  cried  out,  «  An  island  of  ice  on  the 
lee  bow."     From  the  great  change  we  had  experi- 


14  VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND. 

enced  in  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  water,  we 
had  reason  to  expect  the  existence  of  floating  ice  at 
no  great  distance;  and  a  good  look  out  was  maintained 
for  it.  Mounted  on  the  windlass,  1  could  distinctly 
see  this  island,  like  a  white  mass  in  the  horizon.  In 
a  short  time  we  approached  it  within  a  few  miles. 
Its  apparent  height  was  forty  or  fifty  feet,  and  its  base 
on  the  water,  perhaps  three-hundred  feet  in  length. 
It  resembled  a  beautiful  hill  or  prominence,  covered 
with  snow.  Its  sides  appeared  to  be  perpendicular, 
so  that  the  imagination  could  easily  transform  it  into 
a  castle  of  white  marble,  with  its  towers  and  turrets 
on  the  summit.  It  appeared,  as  far  as  we  could 
judge  by  the  eye,  to  be  immoveable,  but  it  was  no 
doubt  subject  to  the  agitation  of  the  waves.  The 
breaking  of  the  sea  against  it,  produced  a  spray, 
which  rose  to  a  great  height,  and  exhibited  a  splen- 
did appearance.  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  five 
or  six  other  masses  appeared,  some  of  which  we 
approached,  much  nearer  than  the  first.  There  was 
something  of  the  terrific  mixed  with  the  grand,  in  the 
emotion  produced  by  the  sight  of  these  prodigious 
piles  of  moving  ice,  the  greater  portion  of  which 
must  lie  beneath  the  surface  and  out  of  sight.  Se- 
veral vessels  have  been  destroyed  by  running  against 
them  in  the  night.  As  the  moon  shone  till  midnight, 
and  the  wind  was  not  high,  the  captain  thought  it  safe 
to  keep  on  his  course.  Under  different  circumstan- 
ces, he  would  have  taken  in  sail  and  lain  to.  If  pro- 
per attention  were  always  paid  by  navigators  to  the 
indications  of  the  thermometer,  it  is  probable  that  all 
danger  from  floating  ice,  at  least  in  the  passage 
between  Europe  and  America,  would  be  entirely 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  ]  3 

avoided.  The  diminution  of  temperature,  both  of  the 
sea  and  air,  in  approaching  those  large  masses, 
affords  a  sufficient  warning  of  their  proximity 

About  2  o'clock  to-day  we  met  and  spoke  the  ship 
Jane  of  Philadelphia,  out  sixteen  days  from  Liver- 
pool. I  do  not  know  that  I  was  ever  more  surprised 
at  my  own  involuntary  emotions,  than  at  the  moment 
when  the  name  and  destination  of  this  ship  were  an- 
nounced to  us,  from  the  trumpet  of  her  captain.  Cut 
off,  as  we  were,  by  a  waste  of  waters,  from  the  social 
endearments  of  country  and  home,  and  all  the  tender 
sympathies  of  friends  and  children ;  wandering  in  a 
solitary  and  trackless  way,  where  all  around  us  was 
an  utter  blank  in  relation  to  human  beings ;  and  with 
sensibilities  unusually  excited  by  the  novelty  of  our 
situation,  and  uncertain  of  the  extent  of  its  duration — 
to  meet  with  others  in  the  same  circumstances,  and 
they  our  countrymen !  I  can  only  appeal  to  those 
whom  experience  has  instructed,  whether  the  sympa- 
thetic tear,  which  I  found  it  almost  impossible  to  re- 
strain, was  nature  or  mere  weakness.  The  secret 
hope,  too,  that  you  would  hear  of  us  by  this  ship  was 
not  without  its  effect,  in  the  impressiveness  of  the 
moment. 

13th.  The  wind  has  been  very  high  most  of  the 
day,  but  directly  in  our  favour.  At  12  o'clock  we 
had  made,  by  our  log,  250  miles  in  the  last  24  hours. 
The  sea  has  been  very  rough,  and  the  pitching  and 
tossing  of  our  frail  vehicle  excessively  great ;  but  I 
have  so  far  recruited  as  to  enjoy  the  magnificence  of 
this  grand  conflict  of  winds  and  waters.  We  have 
but  one  female  in  the  cabin,  and  she,  like  myself,  was 
never  at  sea  before.     Her  illness  has  been  of  longer 


16  %X>YaGE  to  ENGLAND. 

continuance  than  mine.  She  is  not  yet  able  to  sit 
up.  There  are  five  women  in  the  steerage,  one  with 
two  children,  and  another  with  three,  two  of  the  lat- 
ter being  twins  about  seven  months  old.  This  poor 
woman  left  Europe  with  a  husband,  whom  she  had 
married  against  the  advice  of  her  parents,  to  try  their 
fortunes  in  America.  In  New-York,  under  pretence 
of  seeking  employment  in  Canada,  he  left  her  a  short 
time  before  the  birth  of  her  twin  children,  and,  asso- 
ciating himself  with  worthless  and  dissolute  company, 
abandoned  her  to  the  world.  She  is  returning  to 
her  parents ;  and,  as  if  a  life  of  trouble  and  hardship 
were  a  guarantee  against  temporary  and  incidental 
evils,  she  takes  care  of  lier  children,  and  appears  to 
be  less  affected  with  the  confinement  and  agitation  of 
the  ship,  than  many  of  the  other  passengers. 

14th.  We  have  been  at  sea  eight  days;  and,  ac- 
cording to  our  reckoning,  we  have  accomplished  more 
than  half  our  journey  !  The  variety  of  the  table  begins 
to  have  its  attractions,  and  we  have  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  live  fowl  and  other  fresh  provisions.  One  of 
our  hogs  one  day  jumped  out  of  his  pen,  (the  long-- 
boat fixed  in  the  middle  of  the  deck,  serving  both  as 
a  pigsty  and  sheepfold,)  and  ran  about  the  deck. 
One  of  the  men  endeavoured  to  drive  him  back;  but, 
w  ith  blind  perverseness,  he  aimed  for  a  port  hole,  and 
plunged  into  the  sea.  The  poor  animal  continued 
swimming  on  the  tossing  waves  as  long  as  we  could 
see  him. 

1 6th.  We  were  accosted  this  morning  by  a  French 
brig  from  Cherbourg,  and  requested  to  wait  ten  mi- 
nutes. The  sails  were  backed,  and  the  French  cap*- 
tain  came  on  board  in  his  boat.     The  object  was  to 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  17 

send  two  letters  to  France ;  to  which  we  had  no  ob- 
jection. He  was  bound  to  the  banks  of  Newfound- 
land after  fish. 

17th  and  18th.  The  wind  for  these  last  two  days 
has  been  ahead,  and  has  blown  with  much  force. 
Time  would  pass  tediously,  but  for  the  inexhaustible 
entertainment  which  books  afford. 

19th.  In  the  course  of  this  forenoon,  the  captain 
on  deck  cried  out  to  the  passengers  below — "Fish! 
thousands  of  fish !"  As  I  had  not  seen  even  the  gleam 
of  a  fish  during  the  passage,  I  hastened  on  deck.  It 
was  a  shoal  of  porpoises.  The  sea  ran  in  lofty  bil- 
lows, and,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  distinguish  objects, 
they  were  seen  sporting  on  the  tops  of  the  waves, 
and  chasing  one  another  as  playfully  as  kittens  on 
the  hearth.  They  played  thickly  around  the  ship. 
Their  glossy  brown  skins,  (appearing  green  just  be- 
low the  surface  of  the  sea,)  their  graceful  and  rapid 
movements,  and  their  great  numbers,  rendered  the 
sight  truly  pleasing.  They  were,  at  a  medium,  about 
5  feet  long.  It  has  rained  most  of  the  day,  the  wea- 
ther is  cold,  and  the  tossing  of  the  ship  very  great. 
We  are  steering  in  the  direction  of  the  western 
islands,  rather  than  for  England. 

20th  and  21st.  Weather  and  winds  still  unfavour- 
able. The  confinement  even  of  a  dungeon  might  be 
endured,  if  the  night  could  be  uniformly  spent  in 
refreshing  sleep.  But  how  could  a  person  be  ex- 
pected to  sleep,  if  constantly  rocked  in  a  great  cra- 
dle, the  top  of  which  swept  over  one  third  of  a  cir- 
cle ?  Wakeful  in  one's  birth  at  the  midnight  hour, 
when  nothing  is  heard  but  the  raging  of  the  storm 
above,  the  creaking  of  the  masts  and  joints  of  the 
ship,  and  the  hollow  groanings  of  the  surge  as  it 


IS  VOYAGE  TO  EKGLAM). 

dashes  and  rolls  along  the  sides  within  a  few  inchex? 
of  the  pillow  on  which  one's  head  reposes — there  is 
a  solemnity  in  this  which  is  not  merely  poetical.  It 
would  never  fail  to  awe  the  boldest  mind  into  an  hum- 
ble sense  of  human  frailty  and  of  the  benignity  of 
that  Providence,  which,  at  such  an  hour,  supports  and 
preserves  him,  had  reason  and  feeling  their  due  em- 
pire in  the  soul. 

22d.  No  material  alteration  in  the  winds  and 
w^eather.  Had  the  gales  continued  with  which  we 
were  favoured  during  the  first  week,  we  should 
doubtless  have  been  in  sight  of  the  green  fields  of 
Erin  before  now.  But  with  our  present  winds  ano- 
ther week,  and  perhaps  another,  .must  elapse  before 
we  hail  the  sight  of  land. 

23d  and  2Uh.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  remain 
on  deck  on  account  of  rain,  and  the  violent  agitation 
of  our  vessel.  What  sympathy  is  not  due  to  the  poor 
sailors!  Wet  or  dry,  through  storm  and  tempest, 
they  must  be  at  their  post,  at  least  one  half  of  them 
at  a  time,  and  occasionally  the  whole.  The  very 
great  exposure  which  they  have  to  sustain,  and  the 
absolute  necessity  of  their  being  on  the  alert,  ready 
to  ascend  to  the  topmast,  or  to  run  out  upon  the  rig- 
ging to  the  extremity  of  the  yards,  let  the  ship  be 
pitching  or  rolling  ever  so  furiously;  make  it  neces- 
sary that  they  should  be  kept  in  good  spirits  :  hence 
a  resort  to  the  stimulus  of  grog  is  conceived  to  be 
requisite.  They  have  their  regular  allowance  granted 
them  by  the  captain,  beyond  which  they  cannot  go 
while  on  board  the  ship:  but  is  it  a  matter  of  sur- 
prise that  so  many  sea-faring  men  should  become 
addicted  to  strong  drink,  and  confirmed  in  habits  oi 
intemperance  ?    It  is  really  a  melancholy  considera- 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  30 

^ton,  that  of  the  thousands  of  this  class,  that  devote 
their  lives  to  so  arduous  and  important  a  service, 
there  should  be  so  small  a  proportion  that  preserve 
a  character  of  moral  respectability.  I  speak  of  com- 
mon sailors.  The  number  I  fear  is  very  small,  who 
save  from  their  wages  a  sufficient  sum  to  enable  them 
to  spend  much  time  on  shore,  in  a  situation  of  com- 
fort and  improvement,  or  to  secure  a  decent  compe- 
tency in  sickness  and  declining  age.  The  demora- 
lizing tendency  of  a  sailor's  life  is  truly  to  be  de- 
plored. That  they  who  occupy  the  most  exposed,  the 
most  toilsome  and  dangerous  situation,  in  the  wide 
range  of  human  pursuits,  and  who  have  therefore  the 
greatest  reason  to  recognise  and  invoke  the  protec- 
tion of  an  overruling  Providence,  should  be  in  effect 
the  most  regardless  of  that  Providence,  and  by  the 
immorality  of  their  lives,  so  generally  bring  upon 
themselves  the  reproach  and  neglect  of  the  world, 
is  a  consideration  painful  to  humanity.  There  are 
two  causes  which  powerfully  operate  in  this  pro- 
cess of  degradation, — the  free  indulgence  in  intox- 
icating liquors,  and  the  habitual  use  of  bad  language. 
Is  it  not  morally  impossible,  that  the  sentiment  of 
veneration  for  the  Deity  should  be  cherished  by  him, 
who  perpetually  associates  the  name  of  his  Maker 
with  the  most  frivolous,  as  well  as  the  most  passion- 
ate impulses  of  his  mind  ?  The  practice  of  swear- 
ing, I  cannot  but  consider  as  inevitably  demoraUzing. 
Greatly  is  it  to  be  desired,  that  the  benevolent  spirit 
of  improvement,  which  is  so  conspicuous  a  feature  of 
the  present  times,  should  be  directed  to  this  class  of 
the  community.  If  a  moral  debt  be  due  from  one 
part  of  society  to  another,  I  cannot  but  believe  that 
they  who  enjoy  the  blessings  of  ease  and  knowledge, 


20  VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND. 

and  a  due  sense  of  the  benefits  of  religious  cultiva- 
tion, ought  to  consider  themselves  bound,  as  far  as 
practicable,  to  alleviate  the  condition  of  sailors, 
more  especially  in  relation  to  their  moral  and  reli- 
gious improvement.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  suppose 
that  a  ship  cannot  be  conducted  and  governed  with- 
out an  habitual  violation  of  the  third  commandment. 
Experience  has  amply  proved  the  reverse.  Many 
of  the  whale  ships  which  annually  sail  from  Nan- 
tucket, are  commanded  by  members  of  the  society  of 
Friends,  who  will  suffer  no  harsh  and  vulgar  lan- 
guage to  be  used.  Captain  Allen,  who  was  gone 
thirty-two  months  on  one  of  these  perilous  voyages, 
stated  on  his  return,  that  he  had  not  heard  an  oath 
on  board  of  his  ship.  Marine  Bible  Societies  may 
do  much  good ;  but  associations  for  conferring  the 
advantages  of  a  virtuous  and  enlightened  education, 
on  young  men  destined  to  become  mates  and  cap- 
tains of  ships,  would,  in  my  opinion,  be  productive 
of  the  greatest  benefits. 

25th  and  26th.  The  wind  still  blows  heavily  from 
the  same  opposing  quarter,  with  frequent  squalls  of 
rain.  I  have  tried  to  console  myself  with  the  reflec- 
tion that,  though  adverse  to  us,  this  wind  is  as  much 
in  favour  of  our  New-York  friends  as  against  them. 
Our  captain  thinks  the  Amity  has  arrived  by  this  time 
at  New-York.  How  frequently  does  it  happen  in  the 
voyage  of  life,  that  the  same  course  of  events  which 
seems  to  thwart  our  purposes,  promotes  the  pros- 
perity of  others,  and  advances  the  general  good. 
This  reflection  ought  to  soften  the  edge  of  our  com- 
plaining. 

27th.  ^Ve  have  had  a  blustering  night ;  very  high 
wind,  accompanied  with  hail.    The  motion  of  the  ship 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  21 

more  violent  than  ever.  On  ascending  the  deck 
before  breakfast,  I  found  the  wind  had  shifted  to  the 
northward,  and  that  we  were  steering  pretty  directly 
for  the  Channel.  We  indulge  the  hope  of  getting 
into  soundings  to-morrow.  The  sea,  "curling  its  mon- 
istrous  waves"  nearly  half  mast  high,  and  splashing 
across  the  ship  at  mid-decks,  involves,  in  the  comforts 
of  a  cold  salt  water  shower-bath,  all  who  happen  to 
be  in  that  part  of  the  vessel. 

28th.  After  sailing  for  weeks  under  reefed  main- 
sail and  topsail,  and  frequently  no  canvass  at  all  at 
the  mizzen-mast,  and  the  wind  blowing/row  England, 
it  was  cheering  to  learn  this  morning,  that  we  were 
going  directly  forward  with  a  fair  wind,  and  with 
top-gallant  and  studding  sails  spread  to  the  breeze. 
The  sun  sometimes  appeared,  and  gladdened  us  with 
his  beams.  I  do  not  think  he  has  risen  once  with- 
out clouds  during  the  passage.  At  4  p.  m.  sounded 
and  struck  the  bottom  at  85  fathoms  ! 

29th.  A  fair  wind  all  night — Weather  hazy,  with 
showers  of  rain.  10  a.  m.— No  sign  of  land,  though 
by  our  reckoning  we  must  have  passed  Cork :  but  the 
weather  is  too  misty  to  see  far  ahead — 55  fathoms  of 
water  this  morning.  JVoon. — Spoke  a  small  sloop 
bound  to  Waterford :  they  tell  us  we  are  but  a  few 
miles  from  the  Irish  coast — Very  misty  with  showers. 
1  p.  M. — The  mountains  of  Ireland  are  now  in  full 
view  through  the  haze. 

Our  reckoning  has  been  surprisingly  correct,  con- 
sidering that  we  have  been  obliged  to  depend  almost 
entirely  on  the  log.  There  have  been  very  few  op- 
portunities for  observation. 

Vol.  I.  2 


"22  VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND. 

Half  past  2. — Came  up  with  and  spoke  a  ship  from 
New-York,  bound  to  Dublin,  which  left  her  port  as 
the  Pacific  entered  it.  The  captain  spoke  her  at 
Sandy-Hook,  going  out  as  he  was  going  iti.  In  order 
to  clear  the  rocks  on  the  Irish  coast,  we  have  been 
obliged  to  steer  out  into  the  Channel,  and  have  lost 
sight  of  the  land.  Half  past  5. — Abreast  of  the  Sal- 
tees,  large  masses  of  rock,  like  islands,  several  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  at  some  distance  from  the  shore. 
We  passed  within  gunshot  of  a  rock,  which  appeared 
just  above  the  surface,  like  a  large  porpoise.  The 
dashing  of  the  waves  against  it,  raised  a  prodigious 
spray  discernible  for  miles.  It  is  extremely  danger- 
ous, but  it  is  well  laid  down  in  the  charts.  7  o'clock. — 
Jn  sight  of  the  lighthouse  on  the  Tuscar  rock.  This 
rock  is  about  5  miles  from  Carnsore  Point,  on  the 
Irish  coast,  and  opposite  St.  David's-Head  in  Wales. 
The  Channel  is  here  about  40  miles  wide. 

30th.  The  mountains  of  Wales  were  distinctly 
seen  skirting  our  eastern  horizon  this  morning,  while 
the  high  hills  of  Wicklow  in  Ireland,  were  still  more 
conspicuous  in  the  west. 

9  A.  M. — We  are  now  between  Dublin  and  Holy- 
head, the  two  principal  places  between  which  the 
packets  ply  to  and  from  Ireland.  A  land  bird, 
fatigued  in  its  passage,  has  just  alighted  on  the  deck. 
Considering  the  vv^eather,  we  have  really  made  au 
extraordinary  passage;  twenty-two  days  from  land 
to  land,  and  twenty-five  on  board  the  ship.  There 
have  been  nine  passengers  in  the  cabin.  My  young 
friend  and  room  mate,  J.  B.  S.  has,  like  myself,  fully 
shared  in  the  distresses  incident  to  a  first  sea  voyage; 


VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  23 

but  has  borne  up  under  their  depressing  effects  with 
much  patience  and  firmness.  Dr.  F.  has  proved  an 
interesting  companion.  We  have  an  English  captain 
returning  with  his  wife  from  Canada.  He  is  good-na- 
tured, but  savours  too  strongly  of  the  camp.  F.  a 
Scotch  passenger  is  an  intelligent  man,  and  evinces 
in  his  deportment  the  influence  of  a  Scotch  education. 
G.  a  young  Englishman  from  Canada  is  a  modest  and 
decent  young  man.  The  other  two  are  Irishmen^ 
one  a  resident  of  Pittsburgh,  Pennsylvania,  the  other 
a  traveller,  trader,  or  Je  ne  sais  guoi. 

9  p.  M. — -The  wind  has  been  so  much  ahead  and  so 
strong,  we  have  done  little  more  than  double  the 
Island  of  Anglesea.  The  day  closes  with  mist  and 
rain. 

5th  month  1st.  8  a.  m. — Hard  rain  in  the  night,  and 
still  cloudy.  No  land  in  sight,  but  the  wind  has 
changed  in  our  favour,  and  we  are  going  on  briskly. 
We  have  just  taken  a  pilot  on  board,  and  as  he  is  the 
first  person  we  have  seen  immediately  from  the  "  land 
of  promise,"  he  has  to  undergo  the  keen  inspection 
of  our  sea-beaten  company,  and  to  submit  to  a  multi- 
tude of  questions.  The  Courier  is  to  sail  this  day; 
we  hope  to  meet  her  and  forward  our  letters.  The 
tide  will  not  serve  to  pass  up  the  river  Mersey,  till 
towards  dark.  As  the  hour  of  debarkation  ap- 
proaches, our  mental  excitement  becomes  more  vivid» 
The  land  we  are  to  set  our  feet  upon, — is  it  different 
from  our  own  in  appearance  ?  Do  the  customs  and 
manners  of  the  inhabitants  resemble  those  of  our  own 
country  ?  Shall  we  meet  with  a  kind  or  a  cool  recep- 
tion? While  curiosity  was  thus  excited,  we  could 
not  but  feel  the  impulse  of  joy  and  gladness  in  the 


24  VOYAGE  TO  ENGLAND, 

anticipation  of  being  so  soon  relieved  from  the  dull 
monotony  of  the  sea,  and  confinement  of  the  ship, 
and  left  to  the  free  exercise  of  our  limbs,  in  a  coun- 
try where  variety  and  novelty  would  conspire  to 
interest  us. 

12  o'clock. — The  clouds  are  dispersed,  and  tlie 
sun  shines  as  it  does  in  America.  The  scenery 
along  the  coast  is  very  fine.  The  hills  rise  into 
mountains,  Penmanmaur  exhibits  its  bold  and  rug- 
ged front  fully  to  our  view,  the  snow  covering  its  top 
and  lodging  in  numerous  hollows  on  its  sides.  Cul- 
tivation has  spread  its  charms  to  the  very  summits  of 
the  hills.  Houses  thickly  scattered,  hedges,  fences, 
and  green  fields,  are  distinctly  seen.  Thus  have  we, 
within  the  same  grasp  of  the  eye,  tlie  dreariness  of 
winter  and  the  smiling  verdure  of  spring.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  Dee  is  before  us.  We  are  under 
gopd  way,  expecting  to  reach  the  town  about  8  or  9 
o'clock.  5  p.  M. — We  are  informed  by  a  pilot-boat, 
that  the  Courier  tried  to  get  out,  but  was  arrested  in 
the  river  by  the  tide.  We  shall  probably  soon  meet 
her;  and  therefore  I  can  add  but  little  more.     We 

are  going  in  with  the  ship  — of  Philadelphia,  after 

a  passage  of  forty-six  days;  nearly  double  the  time 
that  we  have  been  out.  We  have  been  remarkably 
favoured,  by  that  hand  which  guides  the  movements 
of  the  winds  and  waters;  and  while  the  Atlantic  rolls 
between  us,  I  desire  that  the  feelings  of  sincere  gra- 
titude may  pervade  my  inmost  bosom. 


LIVERPOOL.  2d 

LETTER  U. 

Liverpool^  5th  month  (May)  8/^,  1818. 

My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

Our  arrival  at  this  port,  on  the  1st,  seemed  to  be 
welcomed  by  vernal  smiles  and  a  serene  sky.  The 
mild  gleamings  of  a  May-day  evening,  floated  around 
us,  as  we  doubled  the  rock  and  ascended  the  Mersey. 
The  captain  of  the  Courier  boarded  us  in  his  boat, 
took  our  letters,  and  shortly  after  hoisted  his  sails 
and  pursued  his  voyage.  We  anchored  abreast  of 
the  town  before  it  was  dark.  Ten  or  a  dozen  large 
windmills  in  motion,  and  the  movement  of  a  number 
of  sloops,  or  lighters,  with  large  red  sails,  struck  us  as 
features  of  peculiarity.  We  were  boarded  by  seve- 
ral boats,  in  which  were  the  head  servants  of  some 
of  the  inns,  who  presented  us  with  cards,  and  solicit- 
ed our  company.  The  captain  took  us  ashore  in  his 
boat,  and  abandoned  us  to  the  use  of  our  legs  on  the 
soil  of  old  England.  But  to  walk  with  rectitude  in  our 
new  situation,  was  an  affair  of  greater  difficulty  than 
we  had  anticipated.  So  habituated  were  we  to  the 
vacillating  movement  of  the  ship,  we  could  hardly 
avoid  thinking  that  the  ground  ought  to  move  up  and 
down  and  sideways,  as  we  placed  our  feet  upon  it. 
We  reeled  as  if  intoxicated  with  wine.  Our  progress 
was  soon  stopped  by  a  large  canal,  which  connects 
one  dock  with  another.  The  bridge  was  hoisted  to 
admit  the  passage  of  a  vessel;  but  the  officer,  with 
singular  politeness,  had  it  lowered  for  our  accommo- 
dation, and  immediately  raised  it  again.     We  took 


26  LIVERPOOL. 

lodgings  at  the  Star  and  Garter,  in  Paradise-street,  an 
inn,  which,  though  not  the  most  fashionable,  was  re- 
commended  to  us  as  inferior  to  none  in  comfort.* 

In  vain,  during  the  first  night,  did  we  court  the  fa- 
vours of  Morpheus.  The  w  atchman  called  hour  after 
hour,  till  he  sounded  three^  and  then  it  was  broad  day- 
light. The  rest  of  the  passengers  were  quartered  in 
the  same  house,  and  we  found  upon  mutual  inquiry 
in  the  morning,  that  not  one  of  us  had  slept  a  wink 
the  whole  night.  Like  children,  it  will  take  us  some 
time  to  get  used  to  the  absence  of  our  cradle. 

Every  American  who  has  never  before  been  in 
Europe,  must  be  struck,  on  landing  at  Liverpool,  with 
its  sombre  streets,  its  dark  looking  houses,  its  smo- 
ky atmosphere — in  short,  ^vith  its  great  inferiority, 
in  point  of  pleasantness,  to  most  of  our  sea-port  towns. 
These  repulsive  sensations  by  degrees  subside,  and 
entirely  lose  their  influence,  as  the  society,  the  institu- 
tions, the  public  improvements,  the  wealth,  and  the 
taste  of  some  parts  of  the  town,  become  known.  My 
letters  introduced  me  to  C.  B.  &;  Co.  and  R.  H.  &  Co. 
whose  houses  are  among  the  first,  in  commercial  influ- 
ence and  respectability,  in  this  place;  the  wealth  and 
trade  of  which  are  inferior,  I  believe,  to  none  in  the 
kingdom,  except  the  metropolis.  Business  is  con- 
ducted here,  by  some  of  the  merchants,  on  a  scale 
which,  w  ith  us,  would  be  called  gigantic.  C.  B.  k, 
Co.  have  about  forty  persons  regularly  attached  to 
the  counting-room,  and  ten  or  a  dozen  more  engaged 
in  out  door  w^ork.  Sometimes  the  concerns  of  the 
house,  require  one  or  two  hundred  men  to  be  em- 

'^  The  "Waterloo  is  now  the  best  inn  in  Liverpool,  and  inferior  to  few  in 
Enarland. 


LIVERPOOL.  27 

ployed  about  the  ships  and  docks.  In  the  second 
storj,  they  appropriate  a  room  to  the  purpose  of 
treating  their  friends  occasionally  to  a  good  dinner; 
though  there  is  no  one  that  sleeps  in  the  house.  They 
do  it  too  in  a  very  genteel  style.  It  gave  me  plea- 
sure to  be  introduced,  the  next  day  after  my  arrival, 
to  *  *****  the  son  of  our  venerable  New-Bedford 
fi-iend,  vi^ho  was  accidentally  here.  He  has  been  long 
settled  in  England,  and  is  well  known  in  the  higher 
circles  of  society.  His  manners  possess  that  frank- 
ness and  kindness  which  characterize  the  family,  with 
the  ease  and  polish,  that  result  from  an  acquaintance 
with  the  world.  He  accompanied  me  to  the  custom- 
house, where  I  was  on  the  point  of  being  subjected 
to  much  difficulty  and  expense.  My  friends  had  fur- 
nished me  with  a  good  stock  of  letters,  mostly  intro- 
ductions, and  many  of  them  sealed.  These  the  officer 
seized  with  the  avidity  of  a  harpy,  listening  to  no  re- 
monstrance, and  informing  me,  that  I  should  have  £5 
to  pay  for  every  sealed  letter.  1  followed  him  into 
the  custom-house,  quite  indisposed  to  yield  to  his  de- 
mands, or  to  give  up  my  letters.  After  a  long  expos- 
tulation, he  resigned  to  me  those  that  happened  to 
have  my  namS  on  the  outside,  and  carried  the  others 
to  the  post-office.  Thither  we  followed  him,  and  on 
explaining  the  case  to  the  postmaster,  he  restored  to 
me  all  those  that  I  assured  him  were  of  consequence 
to  me  personally,  and  let  the  others  go  into  the  mail. 
One  of  the  clerks  of  R.  H.  &  Co.  who  assisted  me 
in  obtaining  my  clearances,  said  he  had  never  known 
the  officers  so  severe  in  their  scrutiny  as  on  this  oc- 
casion ;  but  my  friend  *  *****  who  is  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  the  collector,  explained  the  mystery. 


28  LIVERPOOL. 

An  inspector  had  just  arrived  here  from  London,  to 
inquire  into  the  ship  accounts  of  this  town,  and  had 
iound  that  one  of  the  officers  was  a  defaulter  to  a 
great  amount,  and  that  a  considerable  number  of 
ships  were  altogether  unaccounted  for  by  his  regis- 
ter. The  oflScer  would  no  doubt  be  displaced  and 
prosecuted  for  the  deficiency.  This  had  produced 
a  great  stir  among  them,  and  fully  explained  the 
rigour  with  which  our  trunks  were  examined.  Ha- 
ving got  through  this  first  and  unpleasant  part  of  a 
foreigner's  concern,  *  *****  accompanied  my  two 
shipmates,  (J.  B.  S.  and  Dr.  F.)  and  myself  to  the 
asylum  for  the  blind.  We  were  conducted  through 
the  diflferent  apartments  of  that  interesting  charity. 
About  one-hundred  pupils,  or  patients,  are  here  fed 
and  instructed.  They  consist  mostly  of  children 
and  women,  with  but  few  men.  In  the  first  apart- 
ment, the  women  were  spinning  and  sewing.  We 
asked  one  of  the  girls  if  she  could  thread  her  needle ; 
she  answered,  "  Yes,  I  will  show  you," — and  put- 
ting the  head  of  the  needle  with  the  thread  into 
her  mouth,  she  brought  it  out  immediately,  com- 
pletely threaded.  She  guided  the  end  of  the  thread 
to  the  eye  of  the  needle  with  her  tongue,  and  pushed 
it  through.  In  the  other  apartments  they  were  ma- 
king ropes,  cords  of  silk,  as  well  as  window  cords, 
weaving  carpets  and  rugs,  making  baskets  of  willow, 
^sacking,  list  and  knit  shoes,  packthread,  sail  cloth, 
tarred  mats,  &c.  &c.  Many  of  their  articles  are  ma- 
nufactured with  great  neatness.  But  the  musical 
performances  surprised  us  as  much  as  any  part  of 
their  exercises.  A  dozen  pupils  are  taught  to  play 
together ;  one  on  an  organ,  and  each  of  the  others  on 


LIVERPOOL.  29 

a  piano.  The  perfect  agreement  with  which  their 
fingers  jflew  over  the  keys,  and  the  exact  concord  of 
tunes  produced  by  so  many  blind  musicians,  were  tru- 
ly surprising.  I  asked  one  of  the  boys  what  they  had 
been  playing.  He  replied,  "  A  hallelujah  chorus." 
The  whole  number  of  pupils  admitted  into  this  asy- 
lum, from  its  establishment  in  1791,  to  the  termination 
of  the  year  1816,  is  46.5;  of  whom  134  had  been  de- 
prived of  their  sight  by  small-pox,  120  by  inflamma- 
tion, 57  by  cataract,  and  only  7  by  imperfect  orga- 
nization. Thirty-nine  had  been  born  blind.  The 
other  cases  were  from  various  accidents  and  dis- 
eases. Forty  pupils  were  discharged  in  the  course 
of  1816;  of  whom  more  than  one  half  were  capable 
of  maintaining  themselves  by  the  skill  they  had  ac- 
quired in  the  school.  Two  thousand  pounds  worth  of 
goods  manufactured  in  the  institution,  was  disposed 
of  during  the  same  year. 

Having  a  letter  to  W.  Roscoe,  Esq.,  a  gentleman 
well  known  in  the  literary  world,  and  deservedly  es- 
teemed here  and  every  where  for  his  learning  and 
philanthropy,  *  *****  accompanied  me  to  his  office. 
He  received  me  with  great  urbanity.  He  is  a  banker, 
and  a  man  of  business.  The  coldness  and  reserve 
of  the  mere  scholar,  are  completely  worn  off  by 
his  business  habits,  while  the  contracted  "single 
aim"  of  the  merchant,  is  softened,  dignified,  and  ex- 
panded by  letters  and  an  extensive  intercourse  with 
literary  men.  He  has  been  a  member  of  parliament, 
and  as  such  was  an  active  and  enlightened  promoter 
of  measures  calculated  to  advance  the  interests  of 
general  humanity.  His  person  is  tall,  his  figure 
manly  and  prepossessing,  and  beginning  to  assume 


30  LIVERPOOL. 

the  aspect  of  venerable  from  the  influence  of  age. 
We  had  but  little  time  for  conversation  in  this  oui 
first  interview.  We  thence  went  to  the  Exchange,  a 
spacious  range  of  buildings  appropriated  to  the  con- 
cerns of  trade.  In  the  centre  of  the  open  area  where 
the  merchants  assemble,  is  a  monument  erected  to 
Lord  Nelson.  It  is  a  costly  and  finely  executed  piece 
of  work,  but  the  style,  or  rather  the  design  of  it, 
really  appeared  to  me  to  deserve  the  epithet  of  bar- 
barous. Nelson  is  leaning  back  in  an  uneasy  posture, 
with  one  foot  trampling  on  the  carcass  of  a  dead  man. 
Death  is  seen  with  his  marrow  bones  peeping  from 
behind  a  shroud,  and,  reaching  out  his  arm,  is  grasp- 
ing at  Nelson's  heart !  Beneath  are  four  figures  re- 
presenting different  powers  of  Europe,  sitting  round 
the  monument  in  a  forlorn  posture,  with  their  hands 
chained  to  the  stone  near  the  feet  of  the  conqueror. 
There  are  many  other  figures  in  the  group  indicative 
of  the  triumph  of  victory,  and  grief  for  the  loss  of  the 
victor.  In  short,  this  group  of  statues,  of  recent  exe- 
cution, and  which  displays  exquisite  skill  in  the  artist^ 
appeared  to  me  to  breathe  a  spirit,  which  would  better 
befit  the  capital  of  a  nation  of  which  a  Cortes  or  a  Te- 
cumseh  was  the  ruling  chief  The  triumph  of  a  Chris- 
tian nation  ought  surely  to  be  differently  exhibited. 

On  the  3d,  I  accepted  the  invitation  of  my  friends  R. 
to  dine  at  Green  Bank,  the  residence  of  their  mother, 
about  four  miles  from  the  town.  The  vehicle  in  which 
we  rode,  is  called  a  car.  It  is  managed  by  one  horse, 
but  will  easily  accommodate  four  persons  besides  the 
driver.  The  latter  has  an  elevated  seat  in  front;  the 
body  of  the  car  is  ascended  from  behind,  and  contains 
two  side  seats,  the  passengers  sitting  with  their  backs 


LIVERPOOL.  31 

to  the  wheels.  At  dinner  we  were  joined  by  Dr.  T. 
a  gentleman  who  holds  a  high  rank  in  Liverpool  as  a 
physician,  and  equally  so  among  the  learned  for  his 
scientific  attainments.  After  dinner,  W.  Roscoe 
came  in,  and  we  spent  the  afternoon  and  evening  in 
a  lively  and  interesting  conversation ;  the  first  which 
I  had  partaken  of,  in  genuine  English  society.  We 
were  all  willing  to  listen  to  R.  and  Dr.  T.  The  sub- 
jects were  various,  but  among  them,  the  probability 
and  utility  of  a  north-west  passage  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean ;  the  means  of  ameliorating  the  penal  code ; 
asylums  for  the  insane,  &c.  were  prominent  topics. 
The  opportunity  was  to  me  highly  interesting,  and  I 
have  seldom  spent  a  day  more  pleasantly. 

The  mother  of  our  friend  is  the  daughter  of  the 
late  Richard  Reynolds,  of  Bristol,  so  distinguished 
for  his  benevolence.  To  our  regret,  she  was  not  at 
home.  Her  husband  was  a  gentleman  of  education 
and  wealth,  and  of  great  respectability  and  influence 
in  the  mercantile  affairs  of  the  town.  Their  country 
residence  at  Green  Bank  gave  us  a  very  favourable 
impression  of  the  rural  taste  of  the  English.  A  man- 
sion with  something  of  the  Gothic  in  its  structure,  and 
very  neat ;  a  lawn  in  front,  sloping  gradually  to  a  fish- 
pond, and  ornamented  with  a  variety  of  shrubbery  ;  a 
fine  garden,  containing  a  small  but  pretty  conservato- 
ry ;  gravelled  walks,  verdant  grass-plots,  and  borders 
of  flowers,  all  gave  a  smiling  air  to  the  exterior  of 
this  abode,  while  the  neatness  of  its  interior  arrange- 
ment, evinced  an  equal  share  of  enlightened  taste. 

We  met  by  appointment,  the  next  day,  Roscoe  and 
Dr.  T.  at  the  Liverpool  Institution  :  a  fine  establish- 
ment for  the  promotion  of  literature,  arts,  and  science. 


32  LIVERPOOL. 

It  was  opened  about  a  year  ago,  by  an  eloquent  dis- 
course from  the  former  of  these  gentlemen,  who  is 
justly  considered  as  the  presiding  genius  of  the  place. 
It  comprehends  a  spacious  lecture  room,  a  library, 
or  reading  room,  a  collection  of  natural  history,  a 
gallery  of  paintings,  a  laboratory.  Sic.  It  is  liberally 
supported  by  subscriptions  and  donations.*  The 
institution  had  just  received  an  accession  of  fine 
casts  from  ancient  sculpture,  recently  taken  from  the 
ruins  of  Phygalia,  in  Greece.     They  were  deposited 

in  the  institution  by Foster,  Esq.  of  Liverpool, 

who  is  one  of  those  that  brought  the  original  sculp- 
ture from  Greece.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  attending 
a  lecture  by  Dr.  T.  in  this  institution.  He  has  been 
engaged  during  the  winter  in  giving  a  course  on  natu- 
ral history,  to  an  audience  of  both  sexes,  a  large 
proportion  of  w  hom  are  females.  The  number  which 
usually  attend  is  nearly  three  hundred :  such  is  the 
taste  here  for  literature  and  science.  Many  of  them 
are  proprietors  in  the  institution.  Dr.  T.  is  a  plea- 
sing lecturer,  and  quite  a  favourite  with  his  female  au- 
ditors. His  style  is  clear  and  plain,  his  manners  open 
and  modest,  and  he  evinces  an  extensive  acquaint- 
ance with  the  different  departments  of  natural  history. 
It  gave  me  pleasure  to  find  in  a  conversation  with 
W.  Roscoe,  at  his  office,  that  the  subject  of  an  ameli- 

*  The  origin  and  progress  of  this  institution  affords  an  incontestible  evi- 
dence of  tlie  liberality  which  here  prevails  in  the  promotion  of  literature 
and  science. 

A  prospectus  of  it  was  first  laid  before  the  citizens  at  a  public  meeting  at 
the  Liverpool  Arms,  in  March,  1814.  A  committee  was  appointed  to  collect 
subscriptions,  and  in  June  following,  they  reported  to  another  meeting  that 
£20,200  had  been  subscribed.  An  appropriation  of  jElOOO  ns%  also  HBuie 
by  the  corporation  in  ftirther3,nce  of  this  interesting  object. 


LIVTiRPOOL.  33 

oration  of  the  penal  code  of  England,  had  engaged 
his  active  attention,  and  aroused  his  warm  and  gene- 
rous sympathies.  He  wished  to  obtain  further  infor- 
mation relative  to  our  penitentiaries  :  I  freely  commu- 
nicated what  1  knew;  and  put  him  in  the  way  of 
receiving  from  New-York,  a  further  account  of  them. 
He  almost  despairs  of  any  important  change  in  the 
British  laws  within  a  reasonable  time,  on  account  of 
the  strong  prejudices  of  the  nation,  and  the  fears  of 
the  government  in  the  adoption  of  alterations  in 
their  long  established  usages.  As  an  evidence  of  the 
severity  of  the  present  laws,  and  the  arbitrary  man- 
ner in  which  they  are  executed,  he  stated  to  me,  that 
some  time  ago,  a  man  was  taken  up  for  writing  a  song 
which  was  thought  to  have  a  dangerous  tendency, 
tried,  thrown  into  prison,  and  kept  there  more  than 
two  years,  in  a  narrow  miserable  place,  where  he 
could  use  no  exercise.  When  finally  liberated,  he 
was  emaciated,  feeble,  and  scarcely  able  to  walk. 
R.  knowing  him  to  be  a  man  of  talents  and  educa- 
tion, and  destitute  of  support,  procured  for  him  a 
situation  as  tutor  to  the  children  of  a  gentleman; 
which  duty  he  fulfilled  to   satisfaction. 

A  town  meeting  was  called,  some  time  ago,  to 
celebrate  the  fiftieth  year  of  the  reign  of  the  present 
king.  It  was  proposed,  that  the  money  raised  on  the 
occasion,  should  be  employed  in  an  illumination.  R. 
moved  that  instead  of  wasting  it  in  a  blaze,  it  should 
be  employed  in  liberating  all  the  prisoners  wlio  were 
confined  for  debt.  This  motion,  though  much  oppo- 
sed, prevailed,  and  the  prisoners,  about  seventy  in 
number,  were  discharged.  There  was  a  balance  left 
of  £800  sterling.     This  was  invested  in  stock,  and 

Vol.  I.  3 


34  LIVERPOOL. 

the  interest  goes  to  the  employment  of  a  solicitor, 
whose  duty  it  is,  to  inquire  into  the  detention  of 
every  prisoner  for  debt,  and  to  see  that  no  frauds 
are  practised  upon  him.  A  great  number  of  unjust 
exactions,  and  vexatious  proceedings,  are  doubtless 
prevented  by  this  salutary  and  humane  regulation. 

On  the  evening  of  the  4  th,  1  went  to  hear  a  lecture 
on  astronomy,  by  an  itinerant,  who  has  acquired  some 
reputation  in  the  country,  by  the  use  of  a  large 
transparent  orrery.  The  apparatus  was  clumsy,  and 
the  measured  periods  and  cadence  of  the  lecturer 
were  nearly  as  artificial  as  the  wheels  of  his  machine. 

From  what  I  have  yet  seen  of  the  society  of  Friends 
here,  I  must  infer  that  there  is  rather  less  scruple 
with  respect  to  the  furniture  of  houses  and  the 
style  of  living,  than  amongst  us.  The  men  dress  more 
neatly  than  we  do ;  but  the  costume  of  the  females 
strikes  me,  I  must  confess,  as  being  less  conformable 
to  the  principles  of  correct  taste,  than  that  in  our 
cities.  The  deep  projection  of  the  bonnet  seems  to 
give  an  air  of  uncouthness  to  the  whole  person :— but 
I  am  aware,  that  on  these  points,  our  judgments  are 
greatly  influenced  by  custom  and  habit.  There  is 
nothing  in  the  conversation  and  manners  of  the  fe- 
males to  justify  any  unfavourable  impression  from 
their  dress.  They  are  polite,  sensible,  amiable,  and 
exceedingly  well  informed. 

The  commerce  of  Liverpool  is  surprisingly  exten- 
sive. Several  of  the  ware-houses  are  ten  stories 
high.  The  ships  are  not  stationed  along  the  river,  as 
ia  New-York,  but  taken  into  the  docks  to  load  and 
unload.  The  docks  are  prodigious  excavations,  oc- 
cupying from  two  or  three,  to  eleven  or  twelve  acres 


LIVERPOOL,  35 

each,  and  communicating  with  the  river  and  vrith  each 
other  by  canals  and  gates.  The  quantity  of  ship- 
ping which  they  contain  is  astonishingly  great.  Li- 
verpool, within  the  last  40  years,  has  been  completely 
regenerated.  Prior  to  that  period,  its  principal  de- 
pendence was  upon  that  abominable  traffick  to  Africa, 
which  has  entailed  so  much  misery,  oppression,  and 
corruption,  upon  the  inhabitants  of  the  western  world. 
Its  population,  since  the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade, 
has  increased  about  25,000.  It  is  now  a  place  of 
great  wealth;  and  an  admirable  spirit  of  liberality 
prevails  in  the  creation  of  funds  for  any  laudable  pur- 
pose, whether  it  be  the  establishment  of  a  literary 
institution,  or  any  object  of  charity  or  of  public  good, 
which  has  utility  and  expediency  to  recommend  it. 
After  breakfasting  with  Dr.  T.  on  the  morning  of 
the  6th,  and  enjoying  a  lively  conversation  with  him 
and  his  wife,  who  is  a  Scotch  lady,  possessing  a  great 
deal  of  taste  for  the  liberal  sciences,  he  accompanied 
me  in  a  walk  to  Everton ;  a  range  of  buildings  erected 
on  a  high  ridge  east  of  the  town.  From  this  ridge 
we  had  a  charming  view  of  the  town,  the  harbour, 
the  river,  the  opposite  county  of  Cheshire,  and  the 
mountains  of  Wales  in  the  distant  perspective.  Many 
of  the  houses  and  gardens  at  Everton,  are  in  a  style  of 
considerable  elegance.  If  the  lower  and  more  com- 
mercial parts  of  Liverpool,  appear  unpleasant  to  an 
American,  as  they  undoubtedly  must,  in  comparison 
with  New- York  or  Philadelphia,  he  will  have  to  ac- 
knowledge, that  these  defects  are,  in  a  great  degree, 
compensated  by  the  newer  parts  of  the  town:  and  there 
are  not  many  points,  in  either  of  the  two  last  named 
cities,  which  equal  Everton  in  beauty  of  prospect 


36  LIVERPOOL. 

The  bricks,  of  which  the  houses  are  all  constructed, 
are  ofa  brownish  yellow, which  is  soon  changed  by  the 
smoke  of  the  coals,  into  a  dark  and  disagreeable  hue. 

We  visited  the  Athenaeum  and  Lyceum ;  places  of 
literary  resort,  where  the  newspapers  and  journals  of 
England,  Scotland,  Ireland,  and  France  may  be  found 
on  the  tables.  Each  of  these  institutions  must  have 
cost,  at  its  first  establishment,  from  £6  to  £10,000 
sterling,  and  requires  for  its  support  at  least  .500  sub- 
scribers, at  one  or  two  guineas  each,  per  annum.  The 
prosperity  of  these  several  institutions,  as  well  as  the 
general  tone  of  the  society,  which  has  fallen  within 
my  notice,  convinces  me  that  they  are  greatly  mis- 
taken, who  imagine  that  commercial  industry  and  suc- 
cess are  incompatible  with  an  habitual  attention  to 
objects  of  literary  taste,  and  to  scientific  improvement. 

An  order  from  W.  Roscoe  procured  us  an  admission 
to  the  public  botanic  garden.  It  is  a  charming  esta- 
blishment. The  variety  and  perfection  of  the  plants, 
and  the  taste  and  neatness  of  the  garden,  must  strike 
every  American  visiter  with  surprise,  because  we 
have  nothing  to  be  compared  with  it.  The  garden 
contains  about  six  acres  of  ground.  The  proprietors 
have  been  very  successful  in  procuring  a  gardener, 
who  joins  to  an  extensive  acquaintance  with  botany, 
the  greatest  enthusiasm  in  the  pursuit ;  and  he  is, 
withal,  a  man  of  pleasant  affable  demeanour.  He 
was  found  keeping  a  little  shop  in  one  of  the  narrow 
streets  of  Manchester;  where,  without  much  learning, 
without  any  garden,  and  in  a  crowded  city,  by  yielding 
to  the  impetus  of  inclination  and  genius,  he  had  be- 
come a  great  botanist.  He  is  now  transplanted  into 
a  genial  soil,  and  flourishes  to  satisfaction. 


LfVERPOOL.  37 

A  considerable  part  of  the  town  is  lighted  by  coal 
gas.     I  visited  the  factory,  and  found  it  superintended 

by Sadler,  son  to  the  celebrated  aeronaut.     He 

informed  me,  that  he  himself  last  year  crossed  the 
Irish  channel,  from  Dublin  to  Holyhead,  in  a  balloon. 
He  gave  me  two  interesting  pamphlets,  descriptive  of 
their  aerial  voyages.  The  arrangement  of  the  gas 
machinery  is  very  similar  to  that  described  by  Accum 
in  his  treatise  on  gas  light.  I  need  not  therefore  under- 
take to  describe  the  process,  especially  as  I  may  have 
an  opportunity  of  observing  it  in  other  places,  and 
under  different  modifications.  This  concern  is  mana- 
ged by  a  company.  The  cost  to  families,  for  the  use 
of  the  light,  is  from  £3  Is.  to  £4  16*.  per  annum,  for 
each  argand  lamp,  according  to  its  size,  with  permis- 
sion to  keep  it  burning  till  10  o'clock.  If  it  burn 
longer,  the  charge  is  increased.  The  company  are  at 
the  expense  of  fixing  the  pipes  to  just  within  the  house. 

The  dinner  hour  at  Liverpool,  at  which  we  have 
been  invited,  is  five,  but  it  is  frequently  half  past  five  or 
six,  before  the  company  is  seated  at  the  table.  The 
entertainments  are  ample  and  excellent ;  and  if  I  may 
venture  an  opinion,  I  should  say,  there  is  rather  more 
of  easy  dignity,  and  of  the  gracefulness  and  simpli- 
city of  true  social  feeling  and  hospitality,  than  is 
commonly  to  be  met  with  on  our  side  of  the  Atlantic : 
yet,  on  the  whole,  I  have  been  pleased  in  observing 
the  close  resemblance  in  manners,  of  the  same  rank 
of  society,  in  both  countries. 

To-morrow  we  intend  setting  out  for  Manchester. 
We  shall  leave  Liverpool  under  impressions  of  gra- 
titude, for  the  kindness  of  those  to  whom  we  have 
been  introduced. 

3* 


36  JOURNEY  TO  MANCHESTER. 

LETTER   HI. 

Manchester^  5th  month  {May)  lOth,  1818. 

My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

Mv  last  left  us  in  preparation  for  our  departure 
to  this  place.  A  little  after  twelve,  having  paid  our 
landlord's  bill,  and  added  something  to  the  pockets  of 
the  head  servant,  the  chamber  maid,  the  boots,  and 
the  porter,  we  mounted  the  top  of  one  of  the  fourteen 
or  fifteen  stage  coaches  which  daily  run  between  Li- 
verpool and  Manchester.  I  had  secured  for  myself 
the  best  outside  seat — that  alongside  the  driver.  The 
coach  was  nearly  full,  that  is  to  say,  about  twelve  on 
the  outside  and  six  within.  The  distance  is  36  miles. 
The  fare  on  the  outside  was  four  shillings,  and  in  the 
inside  twelve  shillings.  Thus  commenced  our  first 
journey  in  old  England,  and  in  a  style  perfectly  novel 
to  us.  The  coaches  are  very  handsome  vehicles,  ge- 
nerally containing  four  seats  on  the  outside,  and  two 
within.  The  roads  are  so  good,  that  eighteen  persons 
do  not  appear  to  be  an  over  load  for  four  horses. 
Every  coach  has  some  particular  name  painted  on  it, 
like  a  ship,  and  many  of  them,  of  course,  have  royal  or 
princely  titles.  The  horses  are  much  like  our  own. 
Except  a  slight  shower,  the  day  was  fine,  and  the 
ride  to  us  all,  very  interesting.  Features  of  novelty  and 
curiosity  constantly  present  themselves  to  a  stranger's 
eye.  The  country,  through  which  we  have  passed,  is 
level,  and  cultivated  with  the  greatest  attention.  The 
thatched  cottages  of  the  poor,  with  small  latticed  win- 


MANCHESTER.  39 

dows,  and  generally  a  little  enclosure  in  front,  con- 
taining flowers,  which,  in  this  moist  climate,  exhibit 
their  bloom  to  great  advantage ;  the  splendid  seats  of 
noblemen  and  gentlemen, — the  boats  with  expanded 
sails,  moving  along  the  canals, — the  Mersey,  con- 
tracted to  a  narrow  stream,  and  meandering  through 
green  meadows,  serving  as  a  wide  canal, — the  pas- 
ture fields  richly  enamelled  with  daisies, — the  furze, 
a  bushy  shrub,  covered  with  bright  yellow  flowers, — 
the  green  hedge  rows,  nicely  and  evenly  trimmed, 
sometimes  with  a  round  top,  and  sometimes  a  flat 
one, — the  antique  churches, — and  the  high  hills  at 
a  distance, — all  conspired  to  keep  our  eyes  on  the 
stretch,  and  our  fancies  on  the  alert.  Prescot, 
Warrington,  and  Eccles,  were  the  principal  towns 
through  which  we  passed.  The  two  former  are 
considerable  places,  with  narrow  streets  and  old 
fashioned  houses,  exhibiting,  by  their  antique  and 
sombre  appearance,  a  great  contrast  to  our  more 
recent  American  towns.  Numerous  manufactories, 
particularly  of  small  files  and  watchmakers'  tools,  are 
scattered  along  the  road  from  Liverpool  to  Prescot. 
Warrington  is  noted  for  manufactories,  particularly 
of  sail  cloth.  Eccles,  an  old  uncomfortable  look- 
ing village,  is  celebrated  for  good  cakes.  On  stop- 
ping at  the  inn,  they  were  offered  to  us  at  two  pence 
each.  We  found  them  to  be  extremely  palatable. 
They  consist  of  a  kind  of  pastry,  with  an  intermedi- 
ate layer  of  fruit.  These  cakes,  it  is  said,  are  taken 
by  travellers  to  all  parts  of  England. 

The  approach  to  Manchester  is  marked  by  a  cloud 
of  smoke,  and  by  numerous  columns  which  are  seen 
pouring  out  of  the  tall  chimneys  of  the  immense  fac- 


40  MANCHESTER. 

tories  situated  in  all  parts  of  the  town.  We  drove  ra- 
pidly, througli  narrow  and  crowded  streets,  with  high 
houses,  to  the  Bridgewater  Arms;  where  we  were 
courteously  met  by  a  fat  landlady,  and  accommoda- 
ted with  tolerably  good  rooms.  The  persons  to 
whom  we  were  recommended,  by  letters  from  Liver- 
pool, living  a  mile  from  the  inn,  we  employed  the 
remaining  day-light  in  walking  through  several  of 
the  streets.  This  town  makes  a  better  appearance 
than  Liverpool,  though  the  bricks  have  the  same  dark 
and  rough  surface.  The  houses  are  high,  and  the 
streets  and  pavements  in  the  modern  parts  of  the 
town,  are  of  an  agreeable  width.  The  foot- walks 
are  here  made  of  broad  flag  stones ;  but  in  Liverpool, 
they  are  mostly  of  rounded  stones  or  pebbles,  which 
renders  the  walking  unpleasant  and  painful. 

12th.  The  persons  to  whom  we  had  letters,  have 
evinced  all  that  kindness  and  attention  which  so 
greatly  enhance  the  pleasure  one  receives  in  visiting 
a  new  place  ;  not  only  by  conducting  us  to  manufac- 
tories, institutions,  &ic.  but  by  introducing  us  to  other 
persons  of  character  and  distinction.  The  celebrity 
of  Manchester,  as  a  manufacturing  town,  particularly 
of  cotton  goods,  naturally  excites  a  stranger's  desire 
to  visit  the  establishments,  where  so  much  ingenious 
mechanism  is  employed;  and  to  witness  the  processes 
by  which  so  many  fine  fabrics  of  every  variety  and 
colour  are  produced.  Such  exhibitions  of  human  in- 
dustry and  talents,  are  certainly  calculated  to  give  an 
elevation  to  national  character,  and  to  inspire  the 
observer  with  a  more  exalted  opinion  of  the  intellec- 
tual powers,  with  which  it  has  pleased  Divine  Provi- 
dence to  furnish  his  kindred  race.    It  seems  there- 


MANCHESTER,  41 

fore  to  be  regretted,  that  the  interests  of  individuals 
and  companies,  should  in  any  case  be  considered  as 
incompatible  with  such  liberal  admissions  to  their 
factories,  as  tend  to  gratify  an  enlightened  and  ra- 
tional curiosity.  In  this  respect  there  is  a  great  differ- 
ence in  manufacturers,  depending  in  some  degree  on 
their  different  views  of  individual  interests ;  but  more, 
perhaps,  on  the  temper  of  the  man.  The  opinion,  I  be- 
lieve, is  gaining  ground  in  England,  that  the  advanta- 
ges that  have  been  conceived  to  arise  from  keeping 
their  processes  concealed,  are  more  imaginary  than 
real;  and  accordingly  a  more  liberal  disposition  pre- 
vails than  formerly,  in  the  admission  of  visiters  and 
strangers. 

The  first  factory  we  visited,  was  a  glazing  house ; 
that  is,  a  place  where  calicoes  are  glazed.  All  the 
machinery  in  these  factories,  (or  nearly  so)  is  pro- 
pelled by  steam.  The  process  of  glazing  is  a  very 
curious  one,  varying  in  its  nature  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  stuffs,  and  the  degree  of  polish  to  be 
given  to  it.  The  first  thing  is  to  cover  the  stuff  with 
a  very  thin  coat  of  bees-w^ax.  This  is  done  by 
causing  the  calico,  chintz,  or  whatever  it  may  be, 
to  pass  between  two  cylinders  or  rollers,  which  are 
longer  than  the  breadth  of  the  stuff,  in  one  of  which 
are  grooves  filled  with  long  cakes  of  bees-wax,  that 
project  a  little  above  the  surface  of  the  cylinders. 
These  cakes  are  perhaps  an  inch  thick,  and  placed 
five  or  six  inches  apart.  The  upper  cylinder  con- 
tains the  wax,  the  lower  one  is  kept  warm  by  steam, 
which  circulates  through  it  by  pipes.  The  cloth 
passes  between  the  cylinders,  and  becomes  in  that 
manner  slightly  covered  by  the  wax.     Another  pro- 


d2  MANCHESTER. 

cess  is  to  pass  the  stuff  between  two  cylinders,  one 
of  which  is  ofpohshed  steel,  and  the  other  of  paper; 
the  former  being  kept  hot,  either  by  iron  heaters, 
placed  inside  of  it,  or  by  the  introduction  of  steam. 
The  glazing  material  is  applied  to  it  by  a  sponge. 
The  cloth  enters  very  smoothly  into  the  aperture  of 
the  two  cylinders,  and  is  pressed  with  prodigious 
force  as  it  passes  through.  This  gives  a  fine  and 
beautiful  polish  to  the  stuff,  as  well  as  the  stiffness 
observed  in  well  glazed  calicoes.  Another  mode  is 
to  place  the  stuff,  after  it  has  been  waxed,  in  a  ma- 
chine, where  a  very  smooth  rubber  of  flint,  about 
four  inches  wide,  passes  over  it  crosswise,  rubbing  it 
backwards  and  forwar-^s.  The  cloth  is  moved  along 
under  the  rubber,  by  the  motion  of  the  machine. 

We  next  visited  a  printing  factory ;  that  is  to  say, 
a  house  where  calicoes,  chintzes,  &c.  receive  the 
figures  which,  in  the  estimation  of  the  fair  purchasers, 
give  them  their  relative  degrees  of  beauty  and  value. 
The  contrivance  of  new  and  handsome  figures  is  an 
object  of  great  solicitude  to  the  manufacturers :  and 
so  scrupulously  does  each  one  guard  his  own  devices, 
from  the  inspection  of  his  rival  neighbours,  that  they 
transport  their  goods  through  the  streets,  in  vehicles 
entirely  closed,  and  fastened  with  locks.  The  in- 
vention of  new  designs,  furnishes  support  to  a  great 
number  of  ingenious  men.  I  never  before  had  any 
just  conception  of  the  manner  in  which  calicoes  are 
printed.  I  was  witness  to  the  process  in  which  a 
piece  of  white  muslin,  forty-nine  yards  in  length,  was 
converted  into  printed  calico,  with  a  beautiful  figure 
impressed  upon  it,  in  the  lapse  of  four  minutes.  It  is 
sufficiently  simple.     A  hollow  cylinder  of  copper,  as 


MANCHESTER.  43 

long  as  the  stuff  is  wide,  is  previously  engraved  with 
the  intended  figure.  This  cylinder  is  placed  over  a 
trough,  into  which  the  colouring  matter  is  poured, 
and  becomes  partly  immersed  in  it.  A  long  sharp 
edged  knife,  which  they  call  the  doctor,  is  so  adjusted 
to  the  cylinder  as  to  cleanse  it,  during  its  revolution, 
from  all  the  dying  substances,  except  what  is  lodged 
within  the  cavities  of  the  figure  formed  by  the  graver. 
The  cloth  is  passed  under  the  engraved  cylinder,  and 
pressed,  during  its  revolution,  into  its  cavities,  by  the 
forcible  action  of  a  smooth  cylinder  below.  In  this 
way,  calicoes  impressed  with  one  colour  only,  are  ex- 
peditiously printed.  When  more  colours  are  to  be 
put  on,  it  is  commonly  done  by  a  block.  A  piece  of 
w^ood  about  a  foot  long  and  six  inches  wide,  is  carved 
with  the  figure  to  be  impressed.  The  cloth  is  firmly 
stretched  overa  hard  surface;  the  block  is  placed  on 
a  piece  of  woollen  cloth  covered  wdth  the  dye,  a 
portion  of  which  adheres  to  it.  The  block  is  then 
laid  with  accuracy,  on  the  stuff,  with  one  hand,  and  a 
gentle  thump  is  given  to  it  by  the  other.  It  is  again 
dipped  in  the  ink,  and  the  figure  is  further  extended. 
In  this  way  they  vro  on,  till  the  whole  piece  is  covered  ; 
and  in  this  way,  by  going  again  and  again  over  the 
piece,  they  can  fill  it  up  with  a  variety  of  colours. 
Thus  chintzes  are  produced  of  the  gayest  forms,  with 
large  and  brilliant  flowers,  birds,  animals,  and  land- 
scapes. The  factory  we  were  in,  is  one  of  the  best 
in  the  town. 

We  visited  several  neat  factories  at  Ardwick,  in  the 
suburbs  of  Manchester ;  in  one  of  which,  the  wool,  as 
taken  from  the  raw  fleece,  is  converted,  by  various 
successive  and  ingenious  processes,  into  Manchester 


44  MANCHESTER. 

cord ;  a  pleasant  and  valuable  material  lor  men's 
wear.  The  engine  in  this  factory,  of  about  15  horse 
power,  is  the  neatest  I  have  ever  seen.  The  valves, 
and  some  other  parts,  are  patented  improvements,  by 
Fenton  &l  Murray  of  Leeds.  In  another  extensive 
concern,  we  saw  again  the  printing  of  calico,  and  the 
borders  of  shawls ;  and  in  another  apartment,  the  pro- 
cess of  singeing  cords  and  fustians.  This  curious  pro- 
cess consists  in  passing  the  stuff  hastily  from  one 
reel  to  another,  over  a  red  hot  iron.  It  goes  several 
times  backwards  and  forwards  over  the  iron,  before 
it  is  sufficiently  singed.  This  is  necessary  to  give  it 
a  smooth  surface.  The  colour  produced  by  the  iron 
is  afterwards  bleached  out. 

Much  of  the  mere  manual  labour  of  Manchester, 
such  as  weaving,  is  conducted  by  the  workmen  at 
their  own  houses,  under  the  employ  of  the  manufac- 
turer. We  saw  in  one  room  ,30  or  40  pieces  of  tape, 
woven  by  one  motion  of  the  hand ;  each  piece  having 
a  shuttle  of  its  own,  and  all  of  them  driven  simulta- 
neously by  the  same  movement.  The  cutting  of  fus- 
tians and  velvets,  by  which  the  nap  is  formed,  was 
another  interesting  process.  The  stuff  is  woven  so 
as  to  form  successive  rows  of  elevated  threads  or 
loops.  The  cutter  stretches  it  lengthwise  over  a 
frame,  and,  inserting  a  long  slender  knife,  somewhat 
like  a  rapier,  under  one  row  of  threads,  and  dexte- 
rously pushing  it  along,  cuts  the  upper  part  of  the 
threads  or  loops,  and  thus  produces  the  shaggy  sur- 
face. 

After  visiting  another  factory,  in  which  a  kind  of 
cassinet  is  manufactured,  Dr.  F.  and  myself  were  con- 
ducted to  the  rooms  of  John  Dalton,  so  well  known 


MANCHESTER.  45 

for  his  acute  and  extensive  researches  in  chemical 
science.  We  found  the  philosopher  at  his  desk,  sur- 
rounded by  his  books,  his  boxes,  and  his  apparatus, 
chemical  and  philosophical,  all  in  "  delightful  confu- 
sion." He  is  a  member  of  the  society  of  Friends,  of 
plain  unaffected  manners,  and  highly  esteemed  in  so- 
cial life.  His  apparatus  is  very  simple,  and  chiefly 
employed  in  experiments  of  research.  So  profound 
have  been  his  investigations,  and  so  high  is  his  repu- 
tation as  a  chemist  and  mathematician,  that  the  lite- 
rary and  philosophical  society  of  this  place  have 
elected  him  their  president ;  and  he  has  been  recently 
chosen  an  honorary  member  of  the  Academy  of  Sci- 
ence of  Moscow,  and  of  the  Royal  Institute  of  France. 
He  is  a  bachelor  of  about  fifty. 

I  breakfasted  on  the  10th,  at  Dr.  William  Henry's, 
in  company  with  Dal  ton.  The  Doctor's  family  being 
absent,  he  boiled  the  eggs  for  us  himself,  and  treated 
us  with  great  ease  and  kindness.  The  conversation 
of  two  men  so  deservedly  distinguished  for  science, 
could  not  but  be  highly  interesting.  It  turned  upon 
certain  points  of  chemical  theory — chlorine,  acidity, 
alkalinity,  &c.  They  are  neither  of  them  entire 
converts  to  the  new  doctrine  of  chlorine.  Dr.  H. 
with  whom  1  afterward  dined,  conducts  a  chemical 
manufactory,  celebrated  for  the  purity  and  perfection 
of  the  articles  it  produces.  He  very  justly  noticed, 
in  the  course  of  conversation,  the  reprehensible 
practice  pursued  in  America,  of  counterfeiting,  not 
only  the  products  of  British  manufacture,  the  con- 
taining vessel,  the  label  and  directions,  but  also  the 
signature  and  seal.  If  this  is  unjustifiable  in  any 
case,  it  is  emphatically  so  in  relation  to  medical  pre- 

VoL.  I.  4 


i6  MANCHESTER. 

parations,  upon  the  purity  of  which  depends  not  only 
the  reputation  of  the  manufacturer,  but  the   health 
and  life  of  the  purchaser.*     Dr.   H.  is  remarkably 
clever  in  his  particular  department.     He  is  now  pre- 
paring for  the  eighth  edition  of  his  Treatise  on  Che- 
mistry, a  work  which  has  greatly  contributed  to  extend 
the  science,  wherever  the  English  language  prevails. 
It  has  also  been  translated  and  published    at  Paris. 
Accompanied  by  Dr.  C.  of  this  place,  I  visited  the 
infirmary  and  lunatic  asylum,  both  of  which  appeared 
to  be  extremely  well  conducted.     The  infirmary  is 
supported  entirely  by  donations  and  legacies.     The 
maniacs  pay  their  own  way.     New  patients  are  ad- 
mitted only  once  a  week  (except  in  cases  of  parti- 
cular urgency)  when  the  managers  attend  to    read 
their  recommendations,  and  inquire  into  their  claims 
upon  the  bounty  of  the  institution.     We  witnessed 
the  ceremony  of  their  introduction.     The  applicants, 
about  twenty-two  in  number,  were  seated  in  a  semi- 
circle, answered  to   their  names  when  called,  stated 
their  occupations,  and  by  whom  recommended.     A 
large  proportion  said  they  were  leavers.     One  man 
said  he  was  a  slubber;  which  I  found  was  a  technical 
name  for  part  of    the  operation   of  calico-making. 
When  the  examination  was  completed,  a  paper  of 
rules  was  read  to  them  by  the  head  manager,  contain- 
ing an  explicit  statement  of  what  they  might  expect 
from  the  attendants  and  nurses  of  the  house,  and  of 


*  I  understand  that  the  British  manufacturers  are  beginning  to  retahate 
upon  us  by  adopting  a  similar  practice.  Several  varieties  of  American 
fabrics  having,  from  their  superior  texture,  grown  into  extensive  demand, 
;joods  of  the  same  appearance,  with  the  same  fold  and  stamp,  are  now  sent 
frrtm  England,  and  sold  here  at  a  lower  price  than  the  American. 


MANCHESTER.  47 

what  was  to  be  expected  from  them  in  return.     The 
buildings  of  the  infirmary  and  asylum  are  neat,  but 
plain   specimens   of  architecture,  three  stories  high 
above   the   basement,  and   pleasantly  situated  in  a 
wide  place,  called  Piccadilly,  with  a  gravel  walk  sur- 
rounding a  sheet  of  water  in  front,  margined    with 
grass,  and   partially  planted  with  trees.     The  bene- 
factors to  this   charity    have   been   very  numerous. 
The  names  of  the  benevolent  individuals,  with  the 
amount  of  their  contributions,  are  neatly  exhibited 
in  tabular  frames  attached  to  the  walls  in  one  of  the 
large   rooms.      Upwards    of  four   thousand    pounds 
have  been  given  by  unknown  benefactors.     The  in» 
terior  of  those  buildings  evince  the  greatest  attention 
to  the  comfort  and  recovery  of  the  patients,  and  to 
economy  in  management.     The  bedsteads  are  of  iron, 
which,  besides  the  advantage  of  durability,  more  ef- 
fectually secures  them  from  vermin.    The  rooms  of  the 
women  are  designated  by  different  Scriptural  female 
names  as,  "Mary ;"  "  Ruth,"  &c.  while  those  for  men 
are  distinguished  by  masculine  names  from  the  same 
book.      This  mode  of  designating  rooms  I  noticed 
also  at  the   inns.     At   the    Bridgewater    Arms,   the 
names  are  taken  from  the  ancient  mythology.     Thus 
we  read  over  the  doors,  the  words  Morpheus,  Au- 
rora, &c.     In  another  inn,  my  companions  and  myself 
dined   with  several   American   acquaintance,  whom 
we  met  here,  in  a  room  styled  the  "Philadelphia," 
and  the  other  apartments  of  the  house  received  their 
titles  from  the  same  quarter  of  the  globe.     The  sur- 
gical wards  of  this  infirmary  are  numerously  supplied* 
as  might  be  expected,  from  accidents  which  con- 
stantly occur  in  the  manufactories.     In  one  year  the 


48  MANCHESTER. 

number  of  these  has  amounted  to  1381,  while,  during 
the  same  period,  the  number  of  patients  of  every 
description  was  10,670.  Adjacent  to  the  infirmary, 
and  under  the  management  of  its  trustees,  are  ex- 
cellent public  baths,  which,  while  they  afford  a  great 
accommodation  to  the  town,  add  to  the  revenue  of 
the  house.  They  consist  of  hot^  tepid.,  vapour,  and 
coM  baths.  The  patients  of  the  infirmary  are  never 
permitted  to  use  these  baths,  as  there  are  separate 
ones  provided  for  them  within  the  hospital. 

We  were  conducted  to  Chetham's  Hospital,  more 
commonly  called  the  college.  This  is  a  charity 
school,  founded  about  the  year  1650  by  Humphrey 
Chetham,  a  wealthy  individual  of  Manchester.  The 
building  which  it  occupies,  formerly  belonged  to  the 
collegiate  church,  and  is  curiously  antiquated  in  its 
appearance,  both  within  and  without.  About  eighty 
poor  boys  are  here  lodged,  fed,  clothed  and  in- 
structed. They  are  to  be  the  "children  of  "honest, 
industrious,  and  pains-taking  parents,  and  not  of  wan- 
dering or  idle  beggars,  or  rogues."  They  are  clo- 
thed uniformly  in  a  costume  extremely  outre  in  its 
appearance,  and  ridiculous  in  its  form.  Instead  of 
pantaloons,  they  wear  blue  cloth  petticoats,  a  yellow 
under  petticoat,  blue  worsted  stockings,  and  blue 
cloth  caps.  The  little  fellows  are  fed  with  a  plain 
but  wholesome  diet,  and  have  a  very  healthy  and 
contented  look.  The  building  contains  also  a  library, 
founded  by  the  same  benevolent  individual,  "  for  the 
use  of  scholars,  and  all  others  well  affected,  to  resort 
unto."  None  of  the  books  were  to  be  taken  out  of 
the  library,  but  "  fixed  or  chaiiied  as  well  as  may  be." 
This   library   has   become  very  valuable,  and  now 


MANCHESTER.  49 

contains  1 8,000  volumes.  In  the  gallery  are  several 
specimens  of  natural  history,  and  other  curiosities, 
by  way  of  museum.  These  were  explained  to  us  by 
one  of  the  boys,  as  a  matter  of  course,  in  a  tone  and 
manner  that  might  have  done  credit  to  a  well  trained 
parrot. 

The  COLLEGIATE  CHURCH  of  Manchester  produced 
upon  our  minds  sensations,  to  which  we  had,  till  then^ 
been  entire  strangers.  It  was  the  first  example  of 
the  genuine  ancient  ornamental  gothic  we  had  ever 
beheld.  Its  appearance  is  truly  venerable.  In 
viewing  its  curiously  arched  windows,  its  remnants 
of  stained  glass,  its  antiquated  towers,  its  lofty 
ceiling,  its  numerous  carved  ornaments  of  angels 
playing  upon  diflferent  musical  instruments ;  and  es- 
pecially, the  grotesque  figures  that  project  from  under 
the  roof,  in  the  form  of  four  footed  beasts,  (but  of 
what  species  no  naturalist  could  tell;)  the  mind  is  car- 
ried back,  as  by  a  charm,  to  a  period  much  more  re- 
mote in  the  history  of  our  species,  than  any  which  the 
monuments  of  our  own  country,  can  possibly  suggest. 
The  feeling  thus  produced  is  no  less  solemn  and 
delightful,  than  it  is  novel  and  attractive.  This  church 
is  about  350  years  old  The  whole  length  of  the 
edifice  on  the  outside  is  252  feet,  and  its  breadth 
132.  The  dilapidations  of  time  are  everywhere 
visible  upon  it ;  but  pains  are  taken  to  repair  its 
breaches  in  the  style  of  the  original  structure. 

The  present  week  is  a  time  of  annual  relaxation 
at  Manchester.  The  factories  are  generally  aban- 
doned, and  business  suspended.  The  tide  of  popu- 
lation in  the  streets  is  astonishingly  great,  and  con- 
tinues so  till  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening.     Genteel 

4  * 


50  MANCHESTER. 

persons  are  frequently  accosted  by  beggars,  some  ol 
whom  are  very  miserable  in  their  appearance.  Va- 
rious are  the  contrivances  to  attract  attention,  and 
excite  the  charity  of  strangers.  Children  are  met, 
singing  in  the  streets,  with  papers  in  their  hands  for 
sale,  such  as  advertisements  of  shows,  songs,  and 
trash  of  various  kinds.  We  met  a  woman  playing 
on  a  fiddle,  and  capering  through  the  street  to  gain  a 
few  pence.  In  many  of  the  wide  streets  and  open 
parts  of  the  town,  machines  are  erected  to  furnish 
amusement  for  children,  and  to  gain  their  pence. 
Large  swings,  in  the  shape  of  a  boat,  in  which  twelve 
or  twenty  can  be  seated,  are  suspended  from  the 
centre  of  a  great  tripod,  and  pushed  backwards  and 
forwards.  Small  wooden  horses  are  mounted  on  a  cir- 
cular platform,  and  pushed  round  a  central  jpost, 
on  which  children  are  seated  at  a  penny  a  ride. 
During  two  or  three  days  of  this  Whitsuntide  week, 
horse  racing,  and  even  bull  baiting  are  practised. 
The  people  assemble  in  the  suburbs  to  view  and 
attend  these  sports  in  excessive  numbers.  50,000 
are  supposed  to  be  sometimes  collected  at  once. 

Manchester  is  an  ancient  place,  having  evidently 
been  a  settlement  of  the  Romans.  It  is  built  upon 
the  river  Irwell;  into  which  empties,  upon  the  bor- 
der of  the  town,  the  river  Irk.  They  are  both  very 
small  streams.  The  population  and  size  of  the  town 
have  increased  surprisingly  in  the  last  forty  years,  in 
consequence  of  its  growing  manufactories.  In  1773 
tt  contained  but  41,032;  in  1788  the  number  had 
increased  to  50,000;  in  1801  to  84,053,  in  1811  to 
98,571  without  including  the  adjacent  suburbs,  which 
every  stranger  would  consider  as  forming  one  undir 


MANCHESTER.  51 

vided  mass  of  buildings.  These  would  swell  the 
population  of  that  year  to  108,460  ;  and  it  is  believed 
that  at  present,  the  whole  number  would  amount  to 
at  least  130,000.  Notwithstanding  the  great  popu- 
lation and  importance  of  this  town,  it  is  not  incorpo- 
rated, and  has  not  the  privilege  of  sending  a  single 
member  to  parliament;  a  privilege  which  is  enjoyed, 
or  rather  abused,  by  many  a  borough  in  the  kingdom 
of  not  more  than  50  or  100  inhabitants.  Manchester 
is  governed  by  a  head  officer  called  the  borough- 
reeve,  and  two  constables,  chosen  annually  from  the 
most  respectable  of  the  inhabitants.  The  popula- 
tion is  thought  to  be  intelligent.  Science  is  cultiva- 
ted on  account  of  its  connection  with  the  pursuits  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  portico,  an  institution  sup- 
ported by  donations  and  subscriptions,  is  an  elegant 
building,  erected  and  opened  in  1806,  for  the  purpose 
of  a  library  and  news  room,  at  an  expense  of  £6000. 
There  are,  besides,  several  large  libraries  in  the 
town,  belonging  to  distinct  companies.  The  literary 
and  philosophical  society  deservedly  enjoy  a  high 
reputation.  Six  volumes  of  their  transactions  have 
been  published,  and  many  of  the  papers  have  been 
translated  into  the  French  and  German  languages. 
The  Lancasterian  school  here  is  considered  as  infe- 
rior to  none  in  the  kingdom.  The  house  will  con- 
tain about  1200  scholars. 

Manchester  is  distinguished  by  its  charities,  and 
more  especially  that  noblest  of  all  charities,  a 
liberal  instruction  of  the  children  of  the  poor.  This 
town  was  among  the  first  to  adopt  the  plan  of  the 
benevolent  RAIKES,  in  the  organization  of  Sunday 
schools.     Nearly  8000  children  attend  the  schools, 


52  MANCHESTER. 

supported  by  members  of  the  established  church, 
and  about  5000  those  for  other  denominations, 
What  an  aggregate  of  charity  is  here  presented  to 
the  mind  !  This  benevolence  goes  far  to  remedy 
the  evils  arising  from  the  severe  tasks  imposed  upon 
the  children  in  the  manufactories,  and  which  are  so 
justly  condemned  by  Southey  in  the  letters  of  Espri- 
ella.  There  is  no  doubt,  however,  that  a  further 
amelioration  of  the  condition  of  these  infant  labour- 
ers, is  still  called  for  by  the  soundest  dictates  of 
humanity.  The  subject  is  before  parliament,  and 
hopes  are  entertained  that  a  law  will  be  passed, 
giving  every  child  a  right  to  a  certain  portion  of 
education,  and  restricting  them  to  10  or  11  hours 
of  confinement  in  the  manufactories,  instead  of  15 
or  16  as  now  practised. 

There  are  several  peculiarities  of  accent  and  dia- 
lect, which  cannot  fail  to  arrest  the  attention  of  an 
American  who  has  proceeded  no  further  into  En- 
gland than  we  have.  The  frequent  use  of  the  ex- 
pletive, '•'•you  know^'^''  is  very  remarkable,  and  appears 
to  be  almost  universal.  The  suppression  of  the  h, 
when  it  begins  a  word,  and  its  employment  when  not 
necessary,  is  a  practice  equally  remarkable.  "  This  is 
the  place,  you  know^''''  said  a  very  genteel  woman  in 
showing  me  an  improved  fire-place,  "  where  we  ang 
on  the  hironsy  This  pronunciation  finds  its  way,  in 
a  certain  degree,  into  very  respectable  society. 
The  sound  of  u  like  oo^  is  frequent,  but  this  is  per- 
haps peculiar  to  Lancashire.  "  Wiil^  Betty,"  said 
our  Liverpool  coachman  to  a  woman  who  offered 
us  some  flowers,  "  how  art  thoo  my  loov.  Pm  coomin 
doon  to  gie  thee  a  kiss."     There  is  also  a  pecur 


JOURNEY  TO  LONDON.  53 

liar  inflection  of  the  voice,  at  the  conclusion  of  a 
phrase,  whether  long  or  short,  which  conveys  the 
impression  of  softness  and  kindness,  and  strikes  my 
ear  agreeably=  It  cannot  be  represented  by  the  pen. 
My  companions  wishing  to  make  an  excursion 
into  Derbyshire,  and  being  desirous  myself  to  reach 
London  by  the  1 5th,  I  shall  take  leave  of  them  to- 
morrow-—and  pursue  my  journey. 


LETTER    IV. 

London,  5th  month,  (May)  IQih,  IB  18. 
My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

On  the  morning  of  the  13th,  I  took  an  inside  seat 
in  the  Birmingham  coach,  and  proceeding  rapidly 
through  Stockport,  Macclesfield,  Leek,  Cheadle,  Ut- 
toxeter,  and  Litchfield,  arrived  at  Birmingham  about 
eight  in  the  evening.  The  fare  was  twenty  shillings ; 
distance,  about  eighty  miles. 

The  towns  and  villages  through  which  we  passed 
are  marked,  to  an  American  eye,  by  their  aged  ap- 
pearance. Many  of  the  houses,  even  those  in  con- 
siderable towns,  are  covered  with  straw.  The 
churches  are  mostly  in  the  ancient  style  of  architec- 
ture, and  greatly  contribute  to  the  novelty  and  pictu- 
resque beauty  of  the  scenery.  In  passing  even  has- 
tily through  Litchfield,  the  size  and  venerable  ap- 
pearance of  the  cathedral  strikes  the  eye  with  de- 
light. The  house  in  which  Dr.  Darwin  resided, 
was  shown  me  by  one  of  the  female  passengers,  who 


o4  JOURNEY  TO   LONDON. 

had  lived  in  the  town.     It  has  a  modern    appear- 
ance, and  would  be  considered  any  where  a  very 
respectable  mansion.     Neither  the  house  in  which 
Dr.  Johnson  lived,  nor  the  school-house  in  which  he 
taught  David  Garrick,  was  to  be  seen  from  the  road. 
Litchfield  is  a  pleasant  town,  and  the  country  around 
it  is  rich  and  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.     We  dined 
at  Uttoxeter;  and  I  observed  on  this  and  other  occa- 
sions, that   ratlier  more  attention  is  paid  to  the  de- 
cencies of  form,  than  is  generally  practised  by  stage 
companies   among  us.     Some  person  is  desired,  by 
the  rest,  to  take  the  head  of  the  table,  and  from  him 
the  waiter  expects  to  receive  his  orders  for  wine,  or 
any  other  additions  to  the  usual  fare,  and  to  him  the 
bill  is  presented  for  settlement.     Those  who  do  not 
choose  wine,  are  not  obliged  to  pay  for  any  that  may 
be  called  for  by  the  others.     Our  dinner,  including 
a  moderate  portion  of  wine,  was  four  shillings  and  six 
pence  each.     My  company  in  the  inside,  consisted  of 
two  females,  who  w«re  social  and  intelligent,  and  a 
clerical  gentleman,  whose  name  I  did  not  learn.     In 
England  the  clergy  are  distinguishable  by  the  size 
and  form  of  their  hats.     He  entertained  us  with  anec- 
dotes relative  to  bishop  Watson,  and  deacon  Paley; 
with  both  of  whom  he  had  been  acquainted.     The 
attachment  of  these  distinguished  men  to  a  self-de- 
nying religion,  he  did   not   seem   to   estimate  very 
highly  ;   but  he  spoke  of  their  talents,  their  writings, 
and  their  characters,  with  great  respect.     In  enter- 
ing Birmingham  we   passed   a   large  mansion  with 
very  extensive  grounds,  surrounded  by  a  high  brick 
or  stone  wall.     It  appeared  to  be  the  abode  of  opu- 
lence, but  I  was  told  it  had  been  for  sometime  withiia 


JOURNEY  TO  LONDON.  55 

the  grasp  of  the  sheriff  The  coach  stopped  at  a 
large  inn,  called  the  Hen  and  Chickens,  but  the  kind- 
ness of  the  friends  to  whom  1  had  letters,  prevented 
me  from  occupying  a  room  in  it. 

14th.  Having  but  one  day  to  spend  here,  I  re- 
gretted to  find  this  morning,  that  it  ^Aas  the  time  of 
an  annual  fair,  on  which  occasion  many  of  the  manu- 
factories are  closed,  the  workmen  devoting  them- 
selves to  relaxation  and  amusement.  Some  of  the 
wider  streets  and  open  places,  are  crowded  with  ex- 
hibitions of  wild  beasts,  dwarfs,  giant  women,  and 
learned  monkies,  in  sufficient  variety.  The  shops 
exhibit  a  brilliant  exterior;  and  a  vast  variety  of  cu- 
rious articles,  mostly  the  workmanship  of  this  great 
*'  British  toy  shop,"  are  skilfully  arranged  in  the  win- 
dows to  attract  attention. 

By  the  kindness  of  several  of  those  to  whom  I 
was  introduced,  1  visited  some  of  the  factories,  and 
had  a  partial  opportunity  of  witnessing  their  opera- 
tions. The  machinery  for  cutting  and  fashioning  the 
shanks  for  buttons,  works  by  steam,  and  is  exceed- 
ingly ingenious.  A  manufactory  of  tea-trays,  snuffer- 
trays,  inkstands,  snuff-boxes,  &c.  evinced  much  dex- 
terity, and  in  a  striking  degree  the  perfection  of  art, 
The  large  trays  are  made  of  sheet  iron,  stamped  into 
proper  shape  by  a  dye,  then  varnished  and  put  im- 
mediately into  a  large  oven  or  room  wath  shelves 
around  it,  and  heated  by  flues.  The  smaller  trays 
are  made  of  paper ;  as  are  the  snuff-boxes,  ink-stands, 
&;c.  The  paper  is  a  coarse  brown  kind,  made  for 
the  purpose.  A  block  of  v^^ood  is  chosen,  of  the 
size  and  shape  of  the  intended  box ;  the  paper  is 
pasted  upon  it.  in  successive  layers,  until  it  acquires 


56  JOURNEY  TO  LONDON. 

the  proper  tliickness;  it  is  then  put  into  an  oven, 
and  when  thoroughly  dried,  an  incision  is  made 
around  it  as  deep  as  the  block,  and  the  two  parts 
are  slipped  off.  It  is  then  turned  in  a  lathe,  till  per- 
fectly smooth,  the  parts  are  nicely  fitted  to  each 
other,  and  finally  it  is  varnished  and  painted  with 
various  devices.  In  so  great  a  snutT-taking  country 
as  this,  the  elegant  finish  of  the  box,  and  the  finely 
wrought  classical  device  on  the  lid,  are  matters 
of  luxury  and  importance.  We  were  politely 
conducted  into  a  large  button  manufactory.  The 
cutting  out  of  the  piece  from  the  plate  of  brass,  stamp- 
ing it  with  the  impressions,  trimming  the  edge,  sol- 
dering on  the  eye  or  shank,  and  the  final  polishing, 
afford  employment  to  a  great  number  of  persons,  a 
large  proportion  of  whom  are  women.  The  button 
is  polished  in  the  lathe  by  applying  to  it  a  piece  of 
blood  stone.  Several  chemical  manufactories,  par- 
ticularly one  of  sulphuric  and  nitric  acid,  and  of 
some  of  the  salts,  which  were  shown  me,  are  con- 
ducted on  a  large  scale ;  but  as  the  processes  do  not 
essentially  differ  from  those  usually  employed,  it  ia 
unnecessary  to  describe  them. 

A  very  intelligent  friend  conducted  me  in  the 
evening  to  the  Birmingham  institution  for  literature 
and  science.  The  building  contains  a  commodious 
lecture  room;  an  apparatus  room  in  which  was  a 
good  collection  of  philosophical  instruments ;  a  labo- 
ratory well  provided  with  furnaces,  &c. ;  a  room 
containing  an  assortment  of  chemical  apparatus ;  and 
another  room  especially  appropriated  to  galvanic 
experiments,  and  supplied  with  a  large  battery  of 
the  most  modern  construction.     There  is  also  a  libra- 


JOURNEV  TO  LONDON.  §7 

ty  pertaining  to  the  establishment.  Such  an  insti- 
tution as  this,  supported  by  private  liberality  and 
enterprise,  speaks  volumes  for  the  energy  and  intel- 
ligent industry  with  which  the  useful  arts  are  prose- 
cuted, and  enables  us  more  fully  to  appreciate  the 
character  of  a  people  who  have  carried  those  arts 
to  such  a  wonderful  degree  of  perfection. 

I  did  not  ascertain,  whether,  in  Birmingham,  a  stran- 
ger is  recognized  as  such  within  a  very  short  time 
after  his  arrival,  as  in  Manchester.  In  the  latter 
town  it  is  said,  that  within  a  i^vf  hours  after  the 
appearance  of  a  stranger,  his  name,  place  of  resi- 
dence, business,  and  all  other  particulars,  as  far  as 
they  can  be  learned  by  careful  inquiry  and  rapid 
communication,  are  known  throughout  the  place. 
This  arises  from  the  caution  which  is  conceived  to 
be  necessary  as  a  guard  to  their  manufacturing 
privileges. 

The  streets  of  Birmingham  are  of  a  good  width, 
but  the  side  walks  are  mostly,  as  in  Liverpool,  of 
pebbles,  instead  of  bricks  or  flagging. 

I  ought  not  to  leave  this  place  without  an  acknow- 
ledgment of  the  kindness  received  from  several 
friends,  and  particularly  those  by  whom  I  was  so 
hospitably  entertained. 

15th.  After  an  early  breakfast,  I  took  leave  of 
my  kind  host  and  family,  and  set  out  in  the  coach 
for  Oxford.  I  had  previously  secured  an  inside  seat^ 
but  as  the  morning  was  pleasant,  I  placed  myself  on 
the  drivers  box.  This  an  inside  passenger  has  a 
right  to  do  whenever  all  the  outside  seats  are  not 
taken  up ;  and  when  they  are,  he  can  generally  find- 
some  one  to  exchange  with  him.    On  the  seat  imme- 

Vol.  I.  5 


58  JOURNEY    TO    LONDON. 

diatelj  behind  me,  and  on  the  very  top  of  the  coach< 
were  four  genteel  females.  There  is  nothing  to  se.< 
cure  their  safety,  in  this  very  aerial  position,  but  a 
slender  iron  railing,  extending  round  the  back  and 
ends  of  the  seat,  and  about  a  foul  high.  Those  who  sit 
at  the  extremities  of  this  seat  have  scarcely  anything 
lo  rest  the  feet  upon.  In  truth,  1  felt  very  apprehensive 
of  my  own  safety  the  first  time  I  ventured  to  ride  in 
this  lofty  style.  Custom,  however,  soon  reconciles  it, 
and  nothing  is  more  common  in  stage  travelling,  than 
to  find  ladies  preferring  a  seat  on  the  top.  Indeed,  so 
great  are  the  advantages  it  aflfords  with  respect  to 
air  and  prospect,  combined  with  its  cheapness,  it  is 
no  unusual  thing  to  see  the  top  seats  full,  while  the 
inside  is  entirely  vacant. 

We  passed  through  Solihull,  but  the  country  was 
not  very  attractive  till  we  came  to  Warwick.  This 
town  gives  a  name  to  the  county.  Its  greatest  curi- 
osity is  the  castle,  one  of  the  oldest,  largest,  and 
strongest  in  the  kingdom.  It  is  built  upon  the  mar- 
gin of  the  river  Avon.  Its  appearance  is  truly  vene- 
rable. The  extent  of  its  walls  and  the  size  of  its 
tower  gave  a  most  unfavourable  idea  of  the  state  of 
society,  which  could  require  so  much  expense  and 
labour  to  secure  the  safety  of  its  possessor.  At 
Leamington  we  were  transferred  to  another  coach. 
The  gentleman  whom,  from  his  neat  dress  and  bust- 
ling air,  I  took  to  be  the  owner  of  the  hotel,  and 
generalissimo  of  all  the  forces  attached  to  it,  proved 
to  be  the  coachman.  But,  in  reality,  these  coachmen 
are  rather  to  be  considered  as  gentlemen  of  a  par- 
ticular rank.  They  are  well  dressed ;  and  take  the 
liberty  a.?  they  pass  along,  to  speak  and  bow  to  peo- 


JOURNEV    TO    L0WD0J7.  59 

pie  of  respectability,  and  receive  the  same  notice  in 
return.  We  passed  through  Bamburj  and  Didding- 
ton  to  Woodstock.  Near  this  place  the  extensive 
grounds  and  park  of  Blenheim,  the  seat  of  the  duke 
of  Marlborough,  appeared  in  sight,  and  the  monu- 
ment erected  in  commemoration  of  the  victories  of 
the  duke  over  the  French  forces  at  Blenheim,  rose 
fully  into  view.  It  is  situated  in  the  park,  and  attracts 
the  attention  of  passengers  at  the  distance  of  several 
miles.  The  park  was  seen  from  the  road,  like  a  long 
range  of  wood,  and  had  more  the  appearance  of  an 
American  forest  than  any  thing  I  had  observed  in 
England.  It  is  eleven  miles  in  circumference,  and  is 
said  to  furnish  one  of  the  finest  rides  imaginable. 
Blenheim-house  was  not  in  sight  from  our  road,  and 
my  time  did  not  admit  of  a  digression,  though  it  is 
certainly  an  object  of  rational  curiosity  to  a  stranger 
in  England. 

We  arrived  at  Oxford  at  half  past  six ;  and  the 
evening  being  pleasant,  I  immediately  engaged  a 
a  guide,  and  spent  two  hours  and  a  half  in  explo- 
ring the  wonders,  the  curiosities,  and  the  beauties, 
of  this  ancient  and  renowned  seat  of  learning.  If 
any  thing  in  art  and  antiquity,  in  Great  Britain,  can 
strike  an  American  eye  with  delight  and  surprise,  it 
will  here  be  met  with,  probably,  in  its  greatest  per- 
fection. The  exterior  of  the  colleges,  presents  an 
imposing  aspect  of  antique  greatness.  The  massy 
structure  of  the  buildings,  the  number  of  statueSc 
and  the  quantity  of  carved  work  within  and  with- 
out, would  seem  to  require  the  labour  of  ages. 
Every  thing  I  saw  was  in  a  style  of  neatness.  The 
yards,  the  gardens,  the  interior  of  all  the  apartments^ 


60  JOURNEY   TO    LONDON". 

are  kept  in  the  greatest  cleanliness  and  order.  The 
walks  are  highly  beautiful.  A  broad,  gravelled 
pathway,  with  rows  of  high  and  majestic  elms  on 
each  side,  extends,  in  some  cases,  a  mile  in  lengthy 
winding  along  the  margin  of  a  river  or  canal,  and 
surrounding  a  beautiful  meadow.  The  rooks  build 
their  nests  on  the  tops  of  the  trees,  and  fly  about 
the  college  buildings,  in  great  numbers,  unmolested. 
The  painted  or  stained  glass  in  the  chapels,  the 
tesselated  pavements,  the  carved  ceilings,  and  the 
numerous  fine  paintings  with  which  they  have  been 
ornamented,  hold  the  eye  and  the  mind  long  in  ad- 
miration. I  was  in  the  theatre,  or  rather  amphithe- 
atre, in  which  the  emperor  of  Russia,  and  king  of 
Prussia,  received  their  honorary  degrees,  sitting  on 
each  side  of  the  prince  regent.  In  the  library  the 
sovereigns  dined.  On  the  table  of  this  room,  was 
an  engraved  figure,  exhibiting  the  arrangement  of 
the  seats  at  the  dinner.  From  the  top  of  this  build- 
ing, I  had  a  fine  panoramic  view  of  the  city.  The 
students  were  seen  walking  every  where.  Their 
dress,  to  a  stranger,  appears  very  singular.  It  con- 
sists of  a  black  gown,  worn  over  their  other  gar- 
ments, and  a  cap  of  black  cloth  fitting  the  head 
closely,  and  to  the  top  of  which  is  fastened  a  flat 
square  board,  which  they  call  a  trencher,  covered 
with  the  same  substance  as  the  cap,  and  resting 
horizontally  on  the  head,  with  one  corner  in  front, 
to  which  is  suspended  a  few  tassels.  Its  appear- 
ance is  rather  picturesque  and  tasteful. 

Of  the  morality  of  some  of  the  collegians,  I  had 
a  most  unfavourable  specimen.  Four  or  five  of 
them  came  in  the  evening  to  the  inn  where  I  had 


JOURNEY   TO   LONDOJf.  61 

taken  up  my  quarters,  in  the  principal  street  in  the 
town.  They  entered  the  coffee  room,  where  two 
or  three  travellers  and  myself  were  sitting,  enga> 
ged  in  conversation.  After  surveying  us  and  the 
room  for  some  time,  they  went  out,  but  shortly  after 
returned,  seated  themselves  in  one  of  the  recesses- 
into  which  one  side  of  the  room  is  divided,  and  or- 
dered supper  and  drink.  Their  conversation  soon 
assumed  a  very  free  cast,  and  eventually  took  such  a. 
latitude,  as  I  should  suppose  would  set  all  Billings- 
gate at  defiance.  They  abused  the  waiter,  broke  a 
number  of  things,  tore  the  curtains  that  enclose  the 
recesses — staid  till  near  twelve  o'clock,  and  then 
went  off,  thoroughly  soaked  with  wine,  brandy,  and 
hot-toddy.  1  was  told  the  next  morning  that  two  ol 
them  were  noblemen!  Alas  !  for  such  an  education 
as  this.  What  can  Latin  and  Greek,  and  all  the 
store  of  learning  and  science  have,  to  make  amends, 
in  an  hour  of  retribution,  for  a  depraved  heart,  and 
an  understanding  debased  by  such  vicious  indul- 
gence ?  I  cannot  but  cherish  the  hope,  that  this 
incident  does  not  furnish  a  fair  specimen  of  the  mo- 
rals of  the  students.  It  will  doubtless  happen,  thai 
in  so  large  a  number  as  that  here  collected  in  the 
various  colleges,  many  will  bring  with  them  habits 
extremely  unfavourable  to  morality  and  subordina- 
tion. But  from  the  information  derived  from  my 
guide,  who  was  a  moderate  man,  and  certainly  well 
informed  with  respect  to  the  habits  of  the  place,  and 
from  the  observations  which  forced  themselves  upon 
me,  in  my  walk  through  the  streets  and  gardens  this 
evening,  I  am  obliged  to  deduce  the  lamentable 
conclusion,  that  the  morals  of  the   nation   are  not 

5'^ 


62  JOURNEY    TO    LONDOK- 

much  benefited  by  the  direct  influence  of  this  splen- 
did seat  of  learning. 

16th.  Breakfasted  at  the  inn,  and  took  the  Lon- 
don coach  at  9  a.  m.  The  day  was  fine.  I  found 
myself  seated  on  the  coach  with  a  person  of  very 
genteel  manners  and  address,  whose  profession, 
though  very  common  in  England,  is  scarcely  known 
in  the  United  States.  They  are  called  travellers. 
Their  employment  is  to  be  constantly  journeying  in 
the  service  of  commercial  houses,  selling  goods,  re- 
ceiving and  taking  orders,  collecting  debts,  &c.  A 
large  portion  of  the  commercial  business  of  the  na- 
tion, is  done  through  their  agency.  My  stage  com- 
panion informed  me,  that  he  had  not  remained  more 
than  a  week  at  a  time,  at  any  one  place,  for  ten 
years.  They  are  under  great  responsibility  from 
the  nature  of  their  charge,  and  this  secures  their 
fidelity.  They  are  generally  communicative,  and 
very  intelligent  with  respect  to  subjects  which  natu- 
rally fall  within  the  sphere  of  their  notice. 

I  left  Oxford  with  regret  at  being  unable  to  spend 
more  time  at  a  place  which  contains  so  much  of  the 
splendour  of  antiquity,  and  the  pomp  of  learning 
and  the  arts,  and  more  that  must  appear  foreign  to 
an  inhabitant  of  the  New  World,  who  visits  England 
for  the  first  time,  than  any  other  town  in  the  king- 
dom, except  the  metropolis. 

The  country,  in  this  morning's  ride,  became  more 
interesting,  on  account  of  the  chalk  hills,  which,  in 
several  places,  presented  themselves  in  broken  per- 
jpendicular  masses,  exhibiting  the  chalk,  stratified 
with  clay  and  other  substances.  The  nodular  flint  is 
extremely  common,     The  roads  are  paved  with  it, 


JOURNEY   TO  LONDON.  63 

and  it  constitutes,  in  several  places,  a  material  for 
building.  The  agricultural  taste  and  skill  of  the 
country,  simply  as  it  appears  to  a  stage  traveller,  I 
do  not  think  at  all  superior  to  that  which  is  practised 
in  good  farming  districts  in  the  United  States.  I  was 
surprised,  in  the  course  of  yesterday's  ride,  to  find 
that  the  fields  of  grain  and  pasture,  even  on  the  road 
side,  were  entirely  without  hedges  or  enclosures  of 
any  kind.  The  farms  of  different  individuals  were 
separated  only  by  a  narrow  strip  of  untilled  ground. 
Cattle,  and  other  kinds  of  domestic  animals  are,  of 
course,  forbidden  to  run  at  large  on  the  public  high- 
ways, as  in  America.  The  population  increases  as 
we  approach  the  capital ;  yet  there  is  more  waste 
ground,  or  common,  on  this  day's  road,  than  on  any 
over  which  I  have  passed.  We  stopped  at  Henley, 
and  took  a  cut  of  cold  roast  beef,  of  excellent  qua- 
lity-— an  article  of  which  a  good  English  inn  is  sel- 
dom without  a  supply  Henley  is  rather  a  neat  town  j 
I  mean  in  comparison  with  other  English  towns ; 
but  it  exhibits  too  much  of  the  wear  and  tear  of 
age,  to  be  compared,  in  point  of  beauty,  with  our 
modern  American  villages.  We  here  crossed  the 
Thames  on  a  fine  bridge.  This  stream,  so  famous 
for  the  mighty  doings  with  which  its  shores  have  for 
ages  resounded,  is  here  too  shallow  for  any  other 
craft  than  large  boats,  and  of  a  width  which  would 
entitle  it,  in  New-Jersey,  to  the  appellation  of  a 
creek.  It  is  however  a  pretty  stream ;  and  the  land- 
scape, after  we  had  ascended  the  hill  on  the  side  op- 
posite to  Henley,  is  exceedingly  fine.  We  passed,  in 
succession,  through  Maidenhead,  Brentford,  Turn- 
ham  Green,  Hammersmith,  and  Kensington,  and  came 


61  LONDON. 

into  London,  by  the  wide  and  busy  entrance  of  Ox« 
ford-street.  The  three  last  named  villages  seem  to 
be  little  more  than  a  continuation  of  this  street. 

The  bustle  and  activity  we  encountered,  on  enter- 
ing the  metropolis,  were  excessive.  Though  long 
accustomed  to  the  busy  movements  of  the  busiest 
city  in  our  own  country,  I  found  on  this  occasion 
enough  of  novelty  and  peculiarity  to  convince  me, 
had  I  not  known  where  I  was,  that  I  was  entering  a 
much  more  populous  and  wealthy  place,  than  any  I 
had  ever  seen.  The  numerous  equipages,  with 
splendid  liveries,  some  of  which  had  three  footmen 
standing  behind  them,  dressed  in  white  uniform,  with 
large  cocked  hats,  and  each  with  a  staff  in  his  hand; 
the  multiplicity  of  stage  coaches,  passing  in  and  out, 
with  passengers  on  the  top  as  well  as  within ;  the 
trains  of  hackney  coaches  moving  in  all  directions ; 
and  the  crowd  on  the  foot  walks,  in  which  so  great  a 
variety  of  costume  and  figure  is  discoverable, — all 
contribute  to  render  the  first  impression  which  Lon- 
don makes,  very  imposing  upon  the  mind  of  a  stran- 
ger. We  turned  down  Bond-street,  St.  James,  and 
drove  through  Pall  Mall,  the  Strand,  Temple  Bar, 
and  Fleet-street,  to  Ludgate  Hill,  and  into  the  court 
yard  of  the  Belle  Sauvage.  I  took  up  my  quarters 
at  St.  Paul's  Coffee  House,  immediately  facing  the 
yard  of  the  great  Cathedral,  and  under  the  sound  of 
its  powerful  bell.  My  first  concern  was  to  get  a 
map  of  the  city,  and  with  this  to  find  my  way  to  the 
residences  of  those  friends  whom  I  wished  more  im- 
mediately  to  see. 


L0NDO?f.  65 

LETTER   V, 

London,  5th  month,  {May)  23d,  1818. 

Whatever  excitement  of  imagination  or  feelings 
a  first  entrance  into  London  may  produce,  it  is  soon 
found  to  be  a  bustling,  dark  looking  city,  with  narrow 
dirty  streets,  and  high  houses,  and  with  far  less  of 
cleanliness  and  comfort,  externally,  than  in  either  of 
our  principal  towns.  It  requires  some  effort  of  reso- 
lution, therefore,  to  prevent  curiosity  from  subsiding 
into  disgust ;  and  from  hastening  to  a  conclusion,  that 
there  is  nothing  beyond  the  most  noted  public  build- 
ings, and  exhibitions,  that  can  compensate  for  much 
sacrifice  of  time,  or  furnish  materials  for  a  protracted 
stay.  But  a  few  days  of  attentive  observation  are  suf- 
ficient to  dissipate  this  error.  As  the  great  extent  of 
the  city,  its  various  customs,  its  ramified  police,its  very 
numerous  and  diversified  institutions,  its  monuments 
of  art  and  science  and  charity,  come  to  be  gradually 
presented  to  one's  notice,  it  will  be  found,  that  month 
after  month  may  be  assiduously  employed  in  re- 
searches and  inquiries;  and  that  hardly,  within  six 
months,  could  a  stranger,  desirous  of  availing  himself 
of  all  the  opportunities  of  studying  the  human  cha- 
racter which  London  affords,  complete  his  survey  of 
its  interesting  and  almost  endless  peculiarities.  The 
expedition  I  must  necessarily  use,  in  pursuing  the 
plan  I  have  prescribed  to  myself  in  this  journey,  will 
enable  me  to  go  but  a  little  way  in  a  general  descrip- 
tion. But  in  truth,  it  is  not  the  business  of  a  travel- 
ler to  write  a  statistical  account  of  the  countries  he 


66  LONDoi;. 

visits ;  nor  can  it  be  expected  that  he  will  enter  verj^ 
minutely  into  topographical  details.  His  habits  must 
necessarily  be  desultory,  and  such  also  will  be  the 
character  of  his  observations. 

The  American  acquaintance  I  have  found  here, 
together  with  the  few  letters  I  brought  with  me,  have 
introduced  me  to  a  great  number  of  the  society  of 
Friends,  in  whom  I  find  a  full  share  of  characteristic 
hospitality  and  kindness.  Most  of  the  time,  since  my 
arrival,  has  been  occupied  in  attendance  of  the  year- 
ly meeting  of  the  society.  Its  concerns,  upon  the 
whole,  are  transacted  much  in  the  same  way  as  in 
America.  Constituted  as  the  government  of  this  so- 
ciety is,  upon  principles  strictly  republican,  allowing 
to  each  member  the  right  of  attending  all  its  meet- 
ings of  discipline,  as  well  those  which  are  chiefly 
legislative,  as  those  which  are  executive,  it  was  to 
me  a  point  of  some  interest,  to  ascertain  whether  the 
style  and  temper  of  such  meetings  in  England, 
would  be  found  to  have  any  nearer  resemblance  to 
the  aristocratical  tone  of  British  society,  than  to  the 
greater  equality  and  more  general  liberty  of  speaking 
and  acting  enjoyed  under  our  constitutions.  An 
attentive,  and  1  think  impartial  observance  of  the 
progress  of  the  business  in  this  yearly  meeting,  obliges 
me  to  conclude,  that  there  is  nothing  in  the  circum- 
stance, simply,  of  living  under  a  monarchical  govern- 
ment, which  encourages  the  exercise  of  arbitrary 
power,  at  least  on  occasions  of  the  kind  I  now 
allude  to.  Human  nature  is  the  same  under  all 
governments ;  and  as  far  as  this  experiment  goes,  I 
am  persuaded  there  is  the  same  love  of  power,  and 
the  same  disposition  to  exercise  it  individually,  in 


LONDON,  67 

America,  as  in  England.  I  have  no  where  seen  a 
more  scrupulous  regard  to  the  rights  of  individuals, 
in  the  deliberations  of  a  religious  assembly,  than 
was  evinced  throughout  the  proceedings  of  this  meet- 
ing. 

6th  month  (June)  1st.  At  a  meeting  to  day  of  the 
committee  of  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  I 
was  introduced  to  several  gentlemen,  who  have  great- 
ly distinguished  themselves  by  their  zeal  and  activity 
in  the  deeply  important  cause  which  this  Society  has 
undertaken  to  support.  Lord  Teignmouth,  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Society,  officiated  as  the  presiding  officer 
of  the  committee.  He  was  not  distinguished  in  dress 
from  the  other  members.  His  manners  are  plain,  easy, 
and  affable,  and  his  countenance  is  expressive  of  those 
amiable  sensibilities  which  might  be  expected  of  a 
decided  advocate  of  the  Bible,  and  of  the  excellent 
biographer  and  friend  of  Sir  Wm.  Jones.  Although 
the  committee  meets  weekly,  the  business  which  it 
has  to  transact  at  each  meeting  is  sufficient  to  occupy 
a  long  sitting.  Much  of  it  consists  in  reading  the 
numerous  letters  addressed  to  the  Society,  from  al- 
most all  parts  of  the  world.  The  Secretaries,  Owen, 
Steinkopf,  and  Hughes,  are  eminently  qualified  for 
the  duties  which  devolve  upon  them.  The  great  and 
successful  efforts,  which  they  and  other  officers  and 
agents  of  this  Society,  have  made,  to  establish  and 
extend  its  influence,  will  cause  their  names  to  be 
transmitted  to  posterity,  as  benefactors  of  mankind ; 
while  in  the  moral  history  of  England,  the  establish- 
ment of  this  Society  must  ever  form  a  most  brilliant 
era;  and  its  progress  be  marked  with  a  lustre  cheering 
and  delightful  to  every  friend  of  religion  and  peace- 


68  LONDON. 

There  were  several  foreigners  of  distinction  present 
at  this  meeting  of  the  committee ;  particularly  Pro- 
fessors Cuvier,  of  Paris,  and  Pictet,  of  Geneva. 
Much  animated  discussion  took  place,  and  several 
able  speeches  were  made,  on  questions  that  arose  in 
the  course  of  the  business.  1  noticed,  for  the  first 
time,  the  call  of  hear^  hear,  when  any  thing  particu- 
larly interesting  was  stated  by  the  speaker.  This 
kind  of  applause  is  common  I  believe  at  all  public 
meetings,  as  well  as  in  Parliament. 

The  Bible  Society  occupies  a  large  building  in 
Earl-street,  near  Blackfriar's  bridge.  In  one  apart- 
ment is  a  library,  composed  of  all  the  most  noted 
editions  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  in  every  language  in 
which  they  have  been  printed.  In  the  room  in  which 
the  committee  meets,  are  elevated  seats  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  spectators,  who  may  be  introduced 
by  members.  There  is  generally  a  number  of  stran- 
gers present ;  for  the  business  and  the  debates  of  this 
body,  often  furnish  as  much  interest  and  rational  en- 
tertainment as  those  of  the  House  of  Commons. 

I  was  early  introduced  to  the  weekly  levee  of  Sir 
Joseph  Banks,  and  have  several  times  availed  myself 
of  the  advantages  of  such  an  introduction.  It  is  a 
focus,  where  one  may  be  almost  certain  of  meeting 
with  the  most  distinguished  scientific  men  of  the  me- 
tropolis, and  with  learned  strangers,  not  only  from 
different  parts  of  Great  Britain,  but  those  also  from 
foreign  countries,  who  may  happen  to  be  in  London. 
Sir  Joseph's  house  is  pleasantly  situated  at  one  cor- 
ner of  Soho  Square^  It  is  a  plain  building,  and  not 
very  large.  A  stranger  must  be  introduced  either  by 
a  letter  or  by  an  accustomed  visiter ;  but  after  the 


LONDON.  tji^^ 

lirst  visit,  he  is  at  liberty  to  go  as  otten  as  lie  pleases, 
either  to  the  evening  conversazione,  or  to  a  weekly 
breakfast,  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  levees 
aje  held  on  the  evening  of  the  first  day  of  the  week, 
but  at  so  late  an  hour  as  not  to  interfere  with  the 
usual  exercises  of  that  day.  The  company  generally 
begin  to  assemble  about  nine,  and  continue  to  come 
and  go,  without  ceremony,  until  about  twelve.  The 
front  door  opens  into  an  anti-room,  where  are  two  or 
three  servants,  in  attendance — one  of  them  at  least 
always  in  livery.  They  direct  strangers  where  to 
leave  their  hats  and  umbrellas,  and  show  them  the 
way  to  the  library  above  stairs.  This  apartment 
forms  two  sides  of  a  square.  Sir  Joseph,  who,  from 
long  and  severe  attacks  of  gout,  has  been  for  many 
years  unable  to  walk,  sits  at  a  table  at  the  angle  of 
the  library,  and  receives  the  salutation  of  each  per- 
son who  enters,  and  engages  in  easy  conversation 
with  those  who  wish  to  approach  him  for  that  pur- 
pose. He  generally  wears  a  star  on  the  breast  of  his 
coat,  indicative,  I  suppose,  of  the  order  of  knighthood 
to  which  he  belongs.  He  is  now  in  the  seventy-fifth 
year  of  his  age,  and  bears  evident  marks  of  the  decay 
of  nature;  but  is  still  cheerful,  still  alive  to  the  pro- 
gress of  science  and  the  arts,  and  ever  ready  to  com- 
municate from  the  capacious  store  of  his  knowledge. 
Such,  however,  are  his  bodily  infirmities,  he  must  ere 
long  yield  his  station  as  President  of  the  Royal  So- 
ciety, and  that  still  more  important  rank  he  has  so 
long  filled  to  the  honour  and  the  extension  of  British 
science,  as  the  liberal  patron  of  ingenious  men — as 
the  great  Macaenas  of  his  age  and  country.  His 
place,  it  is  to  be  feared,  will  not  be  easily  supplied  ; 
Vol.  I.  6 


70  LONDON. 

for  few  there  are,  even  in  London,  who  can  unite  to 
the  finest  relish  for  science,  and  to  the  most  devoted 
zeal  for  the  progress  of  useful  knowledge,  an  income 
of  £18,000  per  annum,  and  a  liberal  iiand  in  its  dis- 
tribution !  It  is  by  a  distinction  of  this  kijd,  that  the 
name  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks  has  been  famous  in  the 
annals  of  English  science,  since,  in  the  year  1768  he 
sailed,  as  naturalist,  with  the  celebrated  Captain 
Cook,  in  his  first  voyage  of  circumnavigation.  At 
my  first  visit  at  this  place,  I  met  with  Sir  Humphrey 
Davy,  a  circumstance  which  I  considered  fortunate, 
for  he  informed  me  that  the  next  day  he  was  to  leave 
London  for  the  continent,  where  he  expected  to  re- 
main a  long  time.  From  the  just  celebrity  of  his 
name,  an  interview  with  him  was  desirable.  His 
person  is  rather  below  the  middle  size,  his  counte- 
nance open,  his  manners  lively  and  animated,  and 
his  conversation  flowing  and  vivacious.  He  obliging- 
ly gave  me  a  note,  which  transferred  to  me,  for  the 
time  being,  his  right  of  attendance  at  the  reading- 
room,  library,  and  lectures  of  the  Royal  Institution. 
Having  married  a  lady  of  fortune,  he  no  longer  offi- 
ciates as  a  lecturer, — but  his  attention  is  still  occa- 
sionally directed  to  chemical  research  and  experi- 
ment ;  and  from  his  known  ardour,  and  his  being  still 
in  the  middle  period  of  life,  it  may  be  hoped  that  the 
brilliant  career  of  discovery,  which  he  commenced 
at  a  very  early  age,  has  not  yet  arrived  at  its  termi- 
nation. Among  the  most  distinguished  foreigners 
whom  I  met  in  Soho  Square,  was  Cuvier,  the  cele- 
brated naturalist  of  Paris.  He  meets  in  London  with 
that  warm  respect  which  his  high  reputation,  his 
consummate  acquaintance  with  natural  history,  and 


LONDON.  71 

his  personal  merits  entitle  him  to  receive.  At  the 
same  meeting  were  two  young  Persians,  who  have 
resided  some  time  in  London,  for  purposes  of  science. 
Their  inquiries,  1  am  informed,  are  chiefly  medical. 
They  were  dressed  in  the  costume  of  their  own 
country,  in  silk  mantles  and  turbans.  They  spoke 
English  tolerably,  and  appeared  to  be  men  of  some 
aeuteness  of  observation.  The  visiters  at  this  cele- 
brated rendezvous  are  perfectly  easy  in  their  inter- 
course with  each  other.  Each  one  is  at  liberty  to 
sit,  stand,  or  walk,  to  converse,  or  to  read,  as  he  may 
think  proper,  and  to  withdraw  without  ceremony, 
when  it  may  best  suit  his  convenience.  On  a  table, 
at  the  extremity  of  the  library,  are  to  be  found  the 
latest  journals,  and  other  recent  scientific  publica- 
tions, of  England  and  other  countries.  Tea  is  served 
round,  in  the  course  of  the  evening.  The  only  no- 
bleman, who,  at  this  time,  appears  to  be  a  frequent 
visiter  at  these  assemblies,  is  Earl  Morton,  one  of  the 
Vice  Presidents  of  the  Royal  Society. 

2d.  After  dining  to-day  with  my  worthy  friend 
William  Allen,  whose  residence,  in  Plough  Court,  is 
the  abode  of  science  and  philanthropy,  he  accompa- 
nied me,  with  two  of  my  Philadelphia  acquaintance, 
to  the  House  of  Commons,  for  the  purpose  of  gaining 
for  us  an  admission  to  the  gallery.  We  had  an  op- 
portunity, in  the  lobby  of  the  house,  of  meeting  with 
several  members,  by  whom  my  friend  was  well  known. 
We  easily  obtained  a  passport  to  the  gallery;  but  it 
was  so  entirely  full,  that,  after  remaining  some  time, 
crowded  and  squeezed  most  uncomfortably,  and  but 
just  able  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  Speaker's  head 
and  long  wig,  we  thought  best  to  retreat;  and,  re- 


72  LONDON. 

joining  our  conductor,  we  all  went  to  Westminster 
Abbey,  and  spent  some  time  in  surveying  the  curiosi- 
ties of  that  celebrated  mansion,  where  the  memory  and 
remains  of  the  great,  the  learned,  the  beautiful,  and 
the  brave,  repose,  in  all  the  sumptuousness  of  art  and 
affluence.  Notwithstanding  the  vast  number  of  names 
that  are  here  emblazoned,  there  is  still  room  enough 
for  future  ages.  Though  my  youthful  imagination 
had  been  kindled  with  accounts  of  Westminster  Ab- 
bey, I  must  confess,  that  in  point  of  antiquity,  variety, 
costliness,  labour,  and  powers  of  the  chisel,  I  found 
more  to  admire  than  I  had  anticipated.  It  is  curious, 
that  among  monuments  of  marble,  and  images  and 
statues  of  the  hardest  sculpture,  there  should  be  in- 
terspersed wax  figures  of  a  great  many  personages, 
dressed  in  the  costume  of  their  time  and  rank.  These 
are  enclosed  in  glass  cases,  to  protect  them  from  the 
dust.  Some  of  them  are  rather  paltry.  Queen  Eli- 
zabeth, for  example,  is  so  black  and  ugly,  she  might, 
with  a  change  of  dress,  be  well  put  into  a  museum, 
and  called  the  witch  of  Endor.  Nelson  has  on  the 
same  breeches  and  stockings  that  he  wore  at  Trafal- 
gar ;  and  a  pin  is  stuck  into  his  coat  to  show  the  direc- 
tion of  the  ball.  Of  the  statuary,  none  pleased  me 
so  much  as  that  executed  by  Bacon.  We  walked 
over  the  mortal  remains  of  Pitt,  and  Fox,  and  Ben 
Johnson.  The  Poet's  corner  can  be  seen  without  a 
fee;  but  to  go  further,  each  visiter  pays  1*.  9c?.,  and  is 
attended  by  a  guide,  who  explains  every  thing,  and 
at  the  end  of  his  course  receives  his  "  voluntary  con- 
tribution," and  transfers  his  company  to  another, 
who,  in  turn,  tells  his  tale  through  a  long  series  of 
aisles  and  chapels,  and  then  turns  them  out,  with 


LONDON.  73 

-*  What  you  please,  gentlemen."  The  form  of  the 
Abbey  is  that  of  a  cross,  which  I  understand  is  the 
figure  of  most  of  the  cathedrals  in  England.  Its 
lenglh,  from  east  to  west,  is  three  hundred  and  seven- 
ty-iive  feet,  and  from  north  to  south  two  hundred  feet. 
The  height,  from  the  pavement  of  the  nave,  to  the  in- 
ner roof,  is  one  hundred  and  one  feet.  It  is  certainly 
one  of  the  oldest  edifices  in  the  country.  According 
to  a  legendary  story,  the  first  Abbey  was  consecrated 
by  order  of  Sebert,  king  of  the  east  Saxons,  who  died 
m  616.  The  Bishop  of  London  was  to  perform  the  ce- 
remony,  but  "  St.  Peter  himself  was  beforehand  with 
him,  and  consecrated  it  in  the  night,  preceding  the  day 
appointed  by  his  majesty  for  that  purpose,  accompa- 
nied by  angels,  and  surrounded  by  a  glorious  appear- 
ance of  heavenly  lights."  Wonderful  as  this  was,  it 
did  not  protect  the  fabric ;  for  the  sons  of  this  king, 
relapsing  into  Paganism,  quite  deserted  it,  and  it  was 
subsequently  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins  by  the  Danish 
invaders.  Edward  the  Confessor  cleared  away  the 
rubbish,  and  erected  in  their  place  a  structure,  mag- 
nificent for  that  age  ;  but  it  was  not  till  the  reign  oi 
Henry  VII.  that  the  superb  chapel,  known  by  his  name, 
was  planned  and  executed ;  the  first  stone  of  which 
was  laid  in  1 502.  In  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  and 
during  the  civil  commotions,  it  sustained  great  ravages. 
It  became  at  length  an  object  of  parliamentary  atten- 
tention,  and  Sir  Christopher  Wren  was  employed  to 
give  it  a  thorough  repair.  It  is  altogether  impossi- 
ble, by  any  verbal  description,  to  convey  an  adequate 
idea  of  this  magnificent  pile — solemnized  as  it  is  b}- 
the  tombs  and  monuments  of  the  great,  through  so 
many  centuries  of  English  history.     Here  may  be 

6* 


74  LONDON. 

traced  the  progress  of  sculpture,  from  the  rude  Saxon 
monument,  through  the  Gothic  in  all  ils  stages,  to  the 
refined  and  poetic  beauty  of  modern  art.  There  is  a 
curious  mixture  of  the  awful  and  ludicrous  in  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  ancient  tombs.  On  a  huge  stone 
chest,  containing  the  remains  of  the  deceased,  may  be 
seen  a  sculptured  image  of  him,  clad  in  full  armour, 
lying  on  his  back,  and  frequently  with  the  hands 
raised,  as  if  in  the  attitude  of  prayer.  A  husband  and 
wife  are  sometimes  placed  side  by  side,  in  this  style 
of  solemn  formality.  Of  the  recent  monuments,  that 
of  Newton  is  considered  as  one  of  the  finest.  His 
statue  is  placed  in  a  recumbent  posture,  leaning  htB 
right  arm  on  four  folios, — Divinity,  Chronology,  Op- 
tics, and  Phil.  Prin.  Math.,  and  pointing  to  a  scroll, 
supported  by  winged  cherubs.  Over  him  is  a  large 
globe,  projecting  from  a  pyramid  behind,  whereon  is 
delineated  the  path  of  the  comet  of  1680,  with  the 
signs,  constellations,  and  planets.  On  the  globe  sits 
the  figure  of  astronomy,  with  her  book  closed.  Un- 
derneath the  principal  figure  is  a  most  curious  bas 
relief,  representing  the  various  labours  in  which  Sir 
Isaac  Newton  chiefly  employed  his  time ;  such  as  dis- 
covering the  cause  of  gravitation,  settling  the  princi- 
ples of  light  and  colours,  and  reducing  the  coinage  to 
a  determined  standard.  The  inscription  on  the  pe- 
destal is  in  Latin,  intimating  that,  "  by  a  spirit  nearly 
divine,  he  solved,  on  principles  of  his  own,  the  motion 
and  figure  of  the  planets,  the  paths  of  comets,  and  the 
ebbing  and  flowing  of  the  sea ;  that  he  discovered  the 
dissimilarity  of  the  rays  of  light,  and  the  properties  of 
colours  thence  arising,  which  none  but  himself  had 
ever  thought  of  j  that  he  was  a  diligent,  wise,  and 


LONDON.  75 

faithful  interpreter  of  nature,  antiquity,  and  the  Holy 
Scriptures ;  that,  by  his  philosophy,  he  maintained 
the  dignity  of  the  Supreme  Being;  and,  by  the  pu- 
rity of  his  life,  the  simplicity  of  the  Gospel.  The 
inscription  concludes  with  the  exclamation — How 
much  reason  have  mortals  to  pride  themselves  in  the 
existence  of  so  great  an  ornament  to  the  human  race !" 

The  most  splendid  and  admired  statue,  however^ 
in  the  abbey,  is  one  of  Lord  Chatham,  executed  by 
Bacon,  and  erected  by  order  of  parliament.  The 
great  orator  is  dressed  in  his  official  robes,  and  is 
leaning  forward,  with  his  right  hand  extended  as  in 
the  attitude  of  speaking.  Under  him  are  figures  of 
prudence  and  fortitude.  Below  them  is  Britannia; 
and  under  her  are  two  noble  figures,  symbolical  of 
earth  and  ocean. 

3d.  Having  breakfasted  this  morning  by  previ- 
ous invitation  with  *.  ***********^  a  member  of  Par- 
liament, at  his  house  in  Bedford-square,  and  happen- 
ing to  mention  my  disappointment  yesterday  at  the 
house  of  commons,  he  kindly  offered  to  procure  me 
admittance  to-day  at  an  early  hour.  On  calling 
upon  him  again  at  one  o'clock,  he  conducted  me  to 
the  house,  and  introduced  me  in  the  passage  to 
several  of  the  members,  and,  among  others,  to  that 
distinguished  philanthropist,  William  Wilberforce. 
A  hw  minutes  conversation  with  him,  was  sufficient 
to  convince  me  of  the  truth  of  what  1  have  heard 
from  others,  that  he  is  perfectly  amiable  in  private 
life.  Having  a  little  time  to  spare,  I  went  into  the 
Court  of  Chancery,  and  heard  some  dull  pleadings 
before  the  vice  chancellor,  by  lawyers  with  large 
powdered  wigs  hanging  down  their  shoulders.     In 


76  LONDON. 

irompliance  with  ancient  custom,  the  barristers  all 
wear  thfese  wigs,  as  do  the  clerks  of  the  court.  To 
my  unpracticed  eye  there  is  a  stiff  formality  in  their 
appearance,  which  horders  closely  on  the  ludicrous. 
Being  introduced  in  the  lobby  to  Sir  J.  M********, 
he  obligingly  conducted  me  to  the  gallery  of  the  com- 
mons, where  I  obtained  a  good  seat.  There  are  but 
two  modes  of  admission  to  the  gallery, — a  personal 
or  written  order  from  a  member ; — or  a  silver  ticket, 
of  the  weight  at  least  of  half  a  crown,  deposited 
with  the  door  keeper.  Whether  the  latter  proceed- 
ing be  contrary  to  written  law,  I  know  not :  but  if  so, 
it  is  so  universally  connived  at  in  practice,  that  it 
ceases  to  be  regarded  as  a  bribe.  The  room  in 
which  the  commons  assemble,  is  very  simple  in  its 
arrangement,  and  without  ornament,  except  a  gilded 
coat  of  arms  over  the  speaker's  chair.  The  seats  are 
covered  with  green  leather  cushions.  They  are  rai- 
sed one  above  another,  so  as  to  make  the  most  of  the 
space.  There  is  not  a  chair  in  the  room,  except  that 
of  the  speaker.  The  members  have  no  desks  before 
them.  If  they  wish  to  make  notes,  they  must  do  it 
on  their  knees,  with  a  pencil.  A  flat  table  stands  in 
front  of  the  speaker,  at  which  sit  two  clerks.  On 
this  table  lies  the  mace,  a  large  gilt  club,  with  a 
crown  at  one  end  of  it.  The  members  enter  and 
take  their  seats  with  their  hats  on,  and  occasionally 
booted  and  spurred,  or  with  whips  in  their  hands. 
They  generally  seat  themselves  in  the  order  of  po- 
litical fraternity, — the  ministerialists  occupying  one 
side  of  the  house,  and  those  in  the  opposition,  the 
other.  The  speaker  and  the  two  clerks  wear  large 
powdered  wigs,  hanging  in  ringlets  down  the  shoul- 


LONDON.  77 

tier,  the  speaker's  wig  being  larger  than  those  of 
the  clerks,  and  more  in  front.  The  members  be- 
gan to  assemble  about  4  o'clock.  A  number  of 
bills  were  despatched  with  great  expedition; — the 
speaker  uttering,  in  a  monotonous  tone,  and  without 
stopping,  "  those  in  favour  say  aje  the  contrary  no 
the  ayes  have  it."  The  second  and  third  reading 
of  a  bill,  as  they  call  it,  is  despatched  in  the  same 
half-second  style.  A  message  from  the  lords  was 
announced.  The  question  whether  the  messengers 
should  be  admitted,  was  put  and  carried  with  equal 
flippancy.  The  mace  bearer  then  approached  the 
table,  took  up  the  mace,  poised  it  against  his  shoul- 
der, then  went  to  the  door,  and  escorted  to  the  table 
two  men  with  large  powdered  wigs.  They  were 
the  clerks  of  the  upper  house.  Having  delivered 
their  message  they  bowed,  retreated  backwards, 
keeping  their  faces  to  the  speaker,  and  bowing  as 
ihey  retired,  till  they  reached  the  gate  of  a  railing, 
which  extends  across  the  floor,  and  thus  made* 
their  exit.  These  messages  occurred  several  times 
during  the  afternoon,  and  were  managed  in  the  same 
way.  When  a  sufficient  number  of  members  had 
assembled.  Sir  Samuel  Romilly  rose,  and  moved  for 
further  inquiries  into  some  cruelties  that  had  been 
practised  in  one  of  the  West  India  Islands,  by  a 
clergyman,  on  one  of  his  female  slaves.  He  read  a 
statement  of  the  case,  and  spoke  some  time  upon  it. 
His  manner  is  plain  and  clear,  but  not  eloquent. 
He  was  followed  by  Wilberforce,  who,  in  a  speech 
of  about  twenty-five  minutes,  advocated,  in  a  style 
of  great  animation,  the  cause  of  suflTering  humanity. 
He  urged  the  necessity  there  was  for  that  house,  re- 


7tt  LONDON. 

mote  as  the  West  Indies  are  from  the  parent  coun- 
try, to  keep  aUve  to  the  welfare  of  the  negroes,  and 
to  be  prompt  in  calling  for  information,  on  all  need- 
ful occasions,  relative  to  their  treatment.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  see  so  much  vivacity  of  manner,  and  such 
a  vigour  of  thought  and  expression,  in  a  man  whose 
hairs  have  long  since  been  bleached  in  the  defence 
of  this  deeply  injured  people.  The  papers  in  his 
hand  shook  with  the  vehemence  of  his  gesture, 
while  he  expressed  his  indignation  at  the  cruelties 
which  the  case  exhibited.  He  is  certainly  a  great 
orator.  His  person  is  small,  and  though  not  pre- 
possessing, its  defects  are  soon  overlooked  in  the 
glow  of  intelligence  and  benevolence  which  beams 
around  him.  You  will  conclude  it  was  highly  grati- 
fying to  me,  to  have  an  opportunity  of  hearing  this 
veteran  of  humanity  make  a  speech,  and  that  too  on 
his  own  long  heart-felt  cause ; — a  cause  which  he 
has  brought  to  so  triumphant  an  issue.  It  was  the 
more  gratifying,  as  I  am  informed,  he  seldom  of  late 
speaks  in  parliament.  The  house  agreed  to  the 
motion  nem.  con.  The  next  subject  of  interest  was 
a  motion  relative  to  a  parliamentary  inquiry  into 
abuses  upon  charities,  chiefly  devoted  to  education. 
This  subject  was  introduced  by  Brougham  in  a 
speech  of  about  an  hour.  It  was  a  masterly  display 
of  popular  talent;  abounding  with  keen  invective 
against  the  House  of  Lords,  for  having  stripped  the  bill 
of  some  of  its  best  features ; — against  the  courts,  for 
those  reiterated  postponements  and  delays,  by  which 
a  plaintiff,  "  with  a  verdict  in  his  favour  and  all  costs 
paid,"  is  often  ruined !  '  This  gentleman  is,  unques- 
tionably, a  briUiant  speaker.     The  flashes  of  his  elo- 


I.ONDON,  79 

quence  were  often  interrupted  by  applauses,  in  the 
loud  repetition  of  "  hear,  hear."  His  person  is  slen- 
der, his  manner  extremely  energetic,  but  rather  too 
impassioned  to  produce  conviction.  He  was  followed, 
in  a  speech  of  considerable  length,  by  Sir  Francis 
Burdett ;  a  man  of  great  ingenuity  and  cunning,  fer- 
tility of  thought,  and  correctness  of  diction, — but  with 
an  interrupted  enunciation,  and  a  dry  unimpressive 
manner.  The  subject  proved  to  be  one  in  which  the 
house  was  much  interested  ;  for  it  called  up  in  suc- 
cession, Lord  Castlereagh,  B.  Bathurst,  Lockhart. 
Vansittart,  (Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer,)  J.  Smith, 
Canning,  and  some  others  of  inferior  note.  The 
speeches  of  these  gentlemen  were  too  short  to  call  into 
much  exercise  their  particular  powers  of  oratory.  1 
could  scarcely  have  chosen  a  day  more  favourable 
to  the  wish  of  hearing  the  best  speakers  of  Parlia- 
ment upon  subjects  of  general  interest. 

The  speeches  are  taken  down  by  the  reporters,  or 
men  employed  for  that  purpose  by  editors  of  the 
public  prints.  There  are  about  half  a  dozen  of  them. 
They  station  themselves  on  the  upper  bench  of  the 
gallery,  and  so  negligent  are  they  in  attention  to  the 
speakers,  and  talk  and  laugh  so  much  with  each  other, 
as  greatly  to  annoy  those  who  sit  near  them,  and  to 
excite  one's  surprise  at  the  correctness  of  their  reports. 
They  furnish  a  pretty  good  outline  of  the  argument, 
but  give  little  or  nothing  of  the  spirit  and  force  and 
wit  of  the  debate.  A  speech  of  half  an  hour  they 
will  condense  into  half  a  column. 

The  house  sometimes  continues  in  session  till  2  or 
3  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  to  obtain  a  good  seat  in 
the  gallery,  it  is  necessary,  when  any  important  busi- 


80  LONDON. 

ness  is  anticipated,  to  take  possession  as  early  as  li 
o'clock  F.  M.  I  was  relieved  from  this  excessive  fatigue, 
by  the  member  with  whom  I  had  breakfasted.  About 
6,  he  came  up  to  the  members'  gallery,  and  beckoned 
me  to  come  out,  and  to  leave  my  hat  as  a  guarantee 
for  the  same  seat  on  my  return.  He  took  me  to  an 
eating  room,  an  apartment  of  the  Parliament  House, 
ordered  a  beefsteak  to  be  immediately  prepared,  and 
in  the  interim  conducted  me  to  the  House  of  Lords. 
A  small  number  only,  of  their  Lordships,  had  assem- 
bled, and  business  had  not  commenced.  This  cham- 
ber is  not  much  better  furnished  than  that  of  the 
Commons ;  and  is  very  inferior  indeed,  in  costliness 
of  decoration,  to  some  of  our  halls  of  republican  le- 
gislation. In  the  eating  room  were  Lords  Sidmouth 
and  Kenyon  taking  their  luncheons.  The  latter  is 
the  son  of  the  celebrated  Judge,  and  is  a  remarkably 
fine  looking  young  man.  After  dining,  I  resumed  my 
seat  in  the  gallery ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  evening, 
was  again  beckoned  out  by  my  kind  friend,  to  par- 
take of  a  dish  of  tea.  This  we  were  served  with,  in 
a  different  room  from  the  former.  Several  members 
of  the  lower  house  came  into  the  tea  room,  with  whom 
we  had  a  pleasant  conversation,  on  topics  relative  to 
America. 

In  the  course  of  the  debate  on  the  abuses  of  public 
charities,  I  learned  that  all  those  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Society  of  Friends,  were,  by  the  bill,  ex- 
empted from  inquiry.  This  is  rather  singular,  and  is 
certainly  an  exemption  not  asked  for  by  the  society. 
The  house  broke  up  about  twelve.  We  were  once 
or  twice,  in  the  course  of  the  evening,  turned  out  of 
the  gallery.     This  is  done  on  particular  occasions. 


LONDOK.  81 

1(1  always,  I  believe,  when  the  question  is  taken  on  a 
bill.  It  is  effected  by  the  Speaker's  calHng  out  in  a 
loud  voice,  "  strangers  withdraw." 

4th.  This  is  the  King's  birth  day.  But  instead  of 
going  to  St.  James's  to  see  the  grand  parade  of  the 
nobihty  advancing  to  the  palace,  accoutred  in  the 
costume  of  the  "  olden  time," — lords  in  bag  wigs, 
large  sleeves,  and  long  embroidered  waistcoats,  and 
ladies  riding  in  sedan  chairs,  with  hooped  petticoats 
spread  like  sails  on  each  side, — and  then  the  train  of 
all  the  stage  coaches  in  London,  in  their  finest  garni- 
ture, extending  for  miles  through  the  streets, — I  di- 
rected my  steps  another  way. 

The  British  and  Foreign  School  Society  had  re- 
solved to  have,  on  this  day,  an  exhibition  of  all  the 
schools,  collectively,  that  are  under  its  direction. 
Preparation  was  made  for  this  purpose  at  Highbury, 
about  four  miles  from  the  city.  A  dinner  was  to  be  pro- 
vided at  a  large  inn,  for  which  tickets  were  distri- 
buted. The  children  were  collected  from  the  differ- 
ent schools  of  the  society,  in  London  and  its  neigh- 
bourhood, to  the  number,  probably,  of  5009.  They 
were  assembled  in  a  green  field,  adjoining  the  tavern, 
so  as  to  form  three  sides  of  a  hollow  square.  Each 
school  was  encamped  in  a  separate  division,  under 
the  control  of  its  teacher.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
square,  a  stage  was  erected,  large  enough  to  hold 
about  fifty  people,  and  benches  were  provided  in 
front  of  the  stage,  for  one  division  of  this  juvenile 
army,  equipped  with  spelling-books,  slates,  and 
bibles.  The  day  was  almost  without  a  cloud.  The 
view  of  so  many  children,  of  both  sexes,  sitting  on 
the  grass,  or  amusing  themselves,  or  engaged  in  some 

Vol.  I.  7 


82  LONDON. 

of  their  school  exercises  ;  and  the  groat  number  ot 
people  collected  to  witness  the  exhibition,  formed  a 
perspective  highly  gratifying  to  the  benevolent  sensi- 
bilities of  the  spectators,  and  produced  a  general 
fexpression  of  delight  and  pleasure.  A  little  after  12 
the  arrival  of  the  Duke  of  Sussex  was  announced,  by 
the  sound  of  a  bugle.  He  entered  the  field  without 
any  particular  escort,  and  advanced  to  the  foot  of  the 
stage.  The  press  of  the  crowd  was  excessive,  and 
the  anxiety  to  get  on  the  stage  with  the  Duke  equally 
so.  Through  the  kindness  of  some  of  the  managers, 
1  was  invited  to  ascend,  and  was  placed  at  the  back 
of  his  Royal  Highness's  chair.  He  is  a  remarkably 
fine  looking  man,  about  six  feet  high.  He  was  not 
distinguished  by  his  dress  from  others,  except  by  the 
glittering  star  fastened  to  his  left  breast.  He  soon 
showed  himself  to  be  a  social  and  jocose  kind  of  a 
gentleman.  As  chairman  of  the  day,  he  commenced 
an  examination  of  some  of  the  children,  but  as  the 
exercises  were  simply  those  of  spelling,  reading,  &c. 
they  were  not  particularly  interesting,  excepting  those 
of  a  class  of  Jewish  children.  These  were  exercised 
by  their  teacher,  also  a  Jew.  They  repeated  the  ten 
commandments,  and  some  of  the  Psalms,  in  Hebrew 
and  English.  The  Duke  frequently  spoke  to  the 
audience  around  him,  and  seemed  very  desirous  to 
explain  every  thing  to  the  satisfaction  of  his  hearers. 
He  proved  himself  to  be  a  man  of  very  considerable 
address,  and  by  no  means  unaccustomed  to  public 
speaking.  After  the  examination,  the  company  was 
addressed  by  H.  G.  Bennet,  M.  P.,  Alderman  Wood, 
and  others,  and  motions  of  thanks  were  carried  to  the 
managers,  &c.  The  company  gradually  moved  around 


LONDON.  83 

die  field  to  inspect  the  children,  and  then  passed 
through  the  gates,  where  they  were  furnished  with  an 
opportunity  of  contributing  what  they  pleased  to  the 
funds  of  the  society.  The  Duke,  in  his  speech,  had 
urged  the  company  to  be  liberal ;  and  expressed  a 
hope  that  the  ladies,  who  had  volunteered  their  ser- 
vices in  holding  the  plates,  would  station  themselves 
at  the  gates,  and  allow  no  gentleman  to  pass,  that  did 
not  contribute.  Provision  and  beer  were  liberally 
distributed  to  the  children  in  the  field.  At  the  ap- 
pointed hour,  those  who  were  furnished  with  tickets, 
passed  into  the  dining  room,  to  the  number  of  about 
170.  The  Duke  presided  at  the  table.  When  the 
cloth  was  removed,  the  Duke  rose  and  proposed,  as 
a  toast,  the  King's  health ;  and  made  a  long,  and  not 
an  indifferent  speech,  in  relation  to  the  school  con- 
cern, and  to  the  interest  his  Majesty  had  taken  in  it. 
The  toast  was  drunk  with  three  times  three,  the  com- 
jpany  all  standing,  except  the  "  Friends"  present, 
who  kept  their  seats  quietly,  the  chairman  having  ex- 
pressly stated,  at  the  commencement  of  his  remarks, 
that  the  members  of  that  society  were  at  liberty,  on 
those  occasions,  to  act  as  they  saw  fit.  The  health 
of  the  Queen,  and  of  the  Prince  Regent,  was,  in  like 
manner,  proposed  and  drunk  separately;  the  royal 
speaker,  finding  something  new  to  say  each  time,  and 
generally  endeavouring  to  say  something  calculated 
to  promote  hilarity.  He  next  gave  the  health  of  his 
brother,  the  Duke  of  Kent,  and  humorously  adverted 
to  the  latter's  being  about  to  get  married.  In  short, 
our  chairman  showed  a  decided  inclination  to  keep 
the  company  in  good  humour;  and  he  carried  his 
purpose,  as  it  appeared  fo  me,  quite  far  enough  for 


Hi  LONDON. 

for  the  dignity  of  a  prince.  Some  one  sung  a  song- 
The  Duke  then  said  he  would  sing  himself, — he  be- 
gan— forgot  what  was  next, — began  again, — failed  a 
second  time,  and  a  third — laughed  at  his  own  blun- 
ders— and  then  blundered  through  a  song  of  a  per- 
fectly bacchanalian  character, — and  received  the  ap- 
plauses of  the  company  !  As  this  was  the  first  spe- 
cimen of  royal  manners  I  ever  witnessed,  1  have  been 
perhaps,  loo  minute  in  the  description. 

5th.  In  company  with  Dr.  S.  of  New- York,  I  went 
to  the  house  of  our  celebrated  countryman,  Benjamin 
West.  He  was  indisposed  in  his  chamber,  but  on 
receiving  my  letter  of  introduction,  from  *.  ******,  of 
Philadelphia,  he  directed  the  servant  to  invite  us  to 
his  room.  Wp  found  him  seated  behind  a  skreen,  in 
his  gown  and  cap,  with  a  table  before  him.  His  sta- 
ture does  not  exceed  the  middle  size ;  his  features  arc 
rather  small  and  sharp ;  but  his  eyes  are  very  expres- 
sive, and  give  great  animation  to  his  countenance.  He 
was  feeble  from  a  late  attack  of  illness,  and  his  voice 
incapable  of  its  usual  pitch.  He  received  us  cordially; 
and  as  the  conversation  turned  upon  America,  its  im- 
provements in  arts  and  knowledge,  and  its  future  pros- 
pects, his  voice  and  manner  acquired  greater  energy, 
and  he  manifested,  in  the  course  of  an  animated  con- 
versation,the  highest  regard  for  his  native  country,and 
the  most  flattering  expectations  of  its  future  greatness. 

In  the  drawing-room,  adjoining  that  in  which  he  re- 
ceived us,  were  a  great  number  of  pictures,  all  of  the 
ancient  masters.  The  gpUery  containing  his  own 
collection,  occupies  a  suite  of  rooms  in  the  lower- 
story  of  his  dwelling-house.  It  is  very  extensive,  and 
is  open  to  the  inspection  and  gratification  of  respect- 


LONDON.  85 

<ible  visiters,  without  cost,  excepting  a  gratuity  to  the 
servant,  who  is  always  in  attendance,  to  conduct  visit- 
ers through,  and  explain  the  pictures. 

In  returning  to  our  lodgings,  we  went  into  the  ba- 
zaar in  Soho  Square.  This  is  a  very  extensive  suite  of 
rooms,  on  two  floors,  (formed  by  throwing  several 
houses  into  one,)  in  which  are  collected  almost  every 
kind  of  article,  which  the  arts  of  London,  Birming- 
ham, Sheffield,  Manchester,  &c.  can  produce,  in  the 
way  of  ingenuity,  delicacy,  and  taste.  They  are  taste- 
fully exposed  to  the  view  and  examination  of  visiters, 
for  the  purpose  of  sale.  Each  article  has  its  price 
attached  to  it,  from  which  there  is  no  abatement. 
About  200  females  are  in  constant  attendance  to  wail 
upon  visiters,  and  to  receive  their  money.  No  per- 
son is  solicited  'to  buy,  nor  is  any  thing  said  to  en- 
hance the  value  of  the  goods.  This  is  a  new  kind  of 
establishment,  of  which  there  are,  at  present,  but  two 
in  London.  The  term,  as  well  as  the  plan,  has  been 
imported  from  India.  A  new  bazaar  is  building,  1  am 
informed,  by  Lord  George  Cavendish,  which,  for 
splendour  and  convenience,  will  surpass  any  thing  of 
the  kind  in  Europe.  In  the  evening,  these  shops  are 
all  lighted  with  gas,  and  present  a  most  brilliant 
appearance.  One  side  of  Soho  Square  is  frequently 
crowded  with,  the  carriages  of  ladies,  and  people  of 
fashion,  who  are  visiting  the  bazaar. 


■7  * 


86  LONDOiV. 

LETTER    VI. 

London^  6th  month  {June)  9th,  1818. 

I  HAVE  been  spending  a  few  days  at  the  house  of  a 
friend,  at  W w,  six  mih's  from  London,  the  resi- 
dence of  hospitality  and  taste.  It  is  difficult  to  con- 
ceive of  a  situation  which  combines  more  of  the  sub- 
stantial comforts  of  life,  with  its  elegancies  and  refine- 
ments, than  the  villas  and  seats  of  private  and  inde- 
pendent gentlemen,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London. 
Although  the  country,  for  many  miles  around  the  me- 
tropolis, is  almost  a  dull  flat,  unvaried  by  any  of  the 
wild  luxuriances  of  nature,  yet  so  numerous  and  pow- 
erful are  the  resources  of  art,  and  so  well  understood 
are  all  the  principles  of  landscape  gardening,  they 
contrive  to  convert  a  level  piece  of  ground,  of  a  few 
acres,  into  a  little  Paradise.  By  the  magic  of  shrub- 
bery and  flowers,  canals  and  fishponds,  artificial 
mounds  and  grottos,  gravelled  walks  and  majestic 
trees,  added  to  a  noble  mansion,  with  its  ample  range 
of  out-buildings,  its  walled  garden,  its  well  trained 
fruit  trees,  and  its  lawn  of  brightest  verdure,  a  resi- 
dence is  obtained  where  the  philosopher  or  the  states- 
man, blessed  with  temporal  prosperity,  may  retire, 
and  enjoy  his  "  otium  cum  dignitate"  in  the  highest 
perfection. 

In  one  of  my  rides  with  some  of  the  members  of  my 
friend's  very  interesting  family,  we  visited  Ching- 
ford  Church,  an  old,  and  not  a  large,  edifice,  of  plain 
Gothic.  It  is  situated  on  a  rising  ground,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  its  monumental  yard,  and  so  entirely  covered 


LONDON.  87 

with  ivj,  as  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
objects  which  the  religious  antiquities  of  this  island 
aflfbrd.  It  has  been  recently  drawn  and  painted  by 
the  pencil  of  our  very  ingenious  countryman,  Leslie, 
From  the  hill  on  which  it  stands,  there  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  adjacent  country,  with  its  villas,  fields,  and 
hedges. 

10th.     With  the  intention  of  calling  to  pay  a  visit 
of  respect  to  our  minister  at  this  court,  an  American 
acquaintance  and  myself  proceeded  to  the  house  of 
the  secretary  of  legation,  who  informed  us  that  the 
minister  was  preparing  to  attend  the  prorogation  of 
Parliament,  which  was  to  take  place  in  a  few  hours. 
As  this  ceremony  was  to  be  attended  with  great  pa- 
rade, we  drove  to  a  situation  where  we  could  witness 
the  procession.     The  public  had  been  previously  in- 
formed, that  the  Prince  Regent  intended,  on  that  day, 
to  prorogue  Parliament  in  person,  and,  what  was  un- 
usual, to  dissolve  it  immediately.     The  concourse  of 
people  was  excessively  great.    Parliament  and  White- 
hall streets,  for  a  mile,  were  crowded  with  coaches, 
gigs,  and  people  of  all  descriptions.     The  carriages 
of  the  nobility,  and  some  of  the  royal  Dukes,  led  the 
procession.     Those  of  the  nobility  had  four  horses 
each,  and  some  of  the  others  six,  very  richly  har- 
nessed, and  guided  by  postillions  in  full  livery ;  the 
number  of  footmen  varied    according   to  rank  and 
wealth.  Lastly  came  the  state  carriage,  containing  the 
Prince  Regent.  It  is  a  huge,  massive  vehicle,  full  twice 
as  large  as  an  ordinary  coach,  almost  touching  the 
ground  in  the  middle,  covered  all  over  with  gold,  and 
ornamented  with  carved  work.    It  was  drawn  by  eight 
beautiful  cream-coloured  horses,  superbly  caparison- 


88  LONDON 

ed.  Beadles  or  guards,  dressed  in  a  curious  livery, 
walked  on  each  side  of  the  horses  and  carriage,  and 
others  behind,  so  as  to  defend  the  Prince  from  any  in- 
terruption from  the  rudeness  of  the  populace.  Nume- 
rous horsemen  were  likewise  in  array  on  each  side,and 
in  every  part  of  the  route.  The  state  carriage  of  the 
Lord  Mayor,  which  I  have  twice  seen,  is  much  like 
that  of  the  royal  equipage,  equally  rich,  and  equally 
ugly,  except  that  it  docs  not  appear  quite  so  much  the 
worse  for  time  and  use.  As  the  ceremony  of  proroga- 
tion was  not  to  occupy  much  time,  notwithstanding 
the  crowd  of  fashionable  ladies  and  gentry  which 
filled  the  house  of  peers,  and  passages  leading  to  it, 
we  waited  at  the  entrance  of  St.  James'  Park  for  the 
return  of  the  royal  procession,  placing  ourselves  at 
the  gate  of  the  horse-guards.  The  whole  train  passed 
within  a  few  feet  of  us,  through  the  gate,  into  the  park ; 
but  the  Prince  sat  so  far  back  in  his  deep  carriage,  he 
could  not  be  seen  by  spectators,  without  too  intrusive 
an  effort  to  get  a  peep  at  him.  We  did  not  see  him. 
There  is  now  in  London  a  company  of  Seneca  In- 
dians, consisting  of  an  old  chief  and  six  young  war- 
riors, who  came  to  England,  in  compliance  with  an 
engagement  made  in  America,  to  exhibit  themselves 
before  the  English  populace.  They  are  to  be  absent 
one  year  from  home,  and  are  to  receive  ten  dollars 
each,  per  month,  except  the  chief,  who  is  to  be  paid  one 
hundred  and  sixty  dollars.  But  the  bargain  is  likely 
to  prove  unpleasant  and  unprofitable  on  both  sides. 
An  American  Indian  is  not  so  great  a  curiosity  here 
as  the  contractors  had  imagined ;  and  as  to  the  exhi- 
bition of  their  customs,  their  manoeuvres  are  too  silly 
or  too  unpleasant  to  gratify  any  but  the  lowest  class. 


LONDON.  89 

The  Indians  are  very  tired  of  it,  and  wish  to  get  home. 
We  found  them  idHng  their  time  away  in  childish  play, 
in  a  small  upper  room  in  a  narrow  street.  A  person 
has  been  engaged,  by  a  few  benevolent  individuals,  to 
attend  them  as  an  instructor,  and  they  have  made 
some  progress  in  spelling.  A  very  ingenious  and  per- 
severing female  is  endeavouring  to  form  a  vocabulary 
of  their  language,  and  has  succeeded  to  a  consider- 
able extent.* 

JIth.  This  morning  I  visited  the  British  Museum, 
having  previously  made  some  acquaintance  with  Dr. 
L.  the  principal  director  of  the  department  of  natu- 
ral history,  and  one  of  the  most  promising  young  na- 
turalists at  present  in  England.  He  had  desired  me 
to  come  on  a  private  day.  Three  times  in  the  week, 
the  Museum  is  open  to  the  public,  gratis,  and  there  is 
usually,  on  those  days,  crowds  of  visiters.  On  the 
intermediate  days,  visiters  are  excluded,  except  by 
private  admission.  Dr.  L.  kindly  introduced  me  to 
the  Museum,  but  having  to  attend  an  extensive  sale  of 
insects,  at  that  hour,  he  could  not,  to  my  regret,  go 
through  the  apartments  with  me. 

I  had  probably  heard  too  much  of  this  celebrated 
collection,  to  be  satisfied  with  any  thing  reasonable. 
I  was  disappointed  with  respect  both  to  the  extent  and 
variety  of  its  contents.  In  the  department  of  natural 
history,  with  the  exception  of  mineralogy  and  concho- 
logy,  it  is  much  more  deficient  than  I  had  expected  to 
find  it.     This  Museum  owes  its  origin  to  the   public 

*  I  have  since  received  from  this  benevolent  individual,  a  printed  copy  of 
her  vocabulary  of  the  Seneca  language ;  and  also  another  of  the  Yaloof, 
spoken  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  They  indicate  much  taste  and  talent,  exerted 
in  the  very  laudable  desire  of  promoting-  the  cause  of  civilization. 


90  LONDON. 

spirit  of  that  distinguished  physician,  Sir  Hans  Sloane, 
who,  by  great  industry  and  taste,  had  made  a  collec- 
tion of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities,  books,  and 
manuscripts,  which  he  stated  in  his  will,  had  cost  him 
upwards  of  £50,000.  His  will  directed  that  it  should 
be  offered  to  Parliament  for  £20,000,  and  if  not  ac- 
cepted, that  it  should  then  be  offered  to  certain  fo- 
reign academies,  named  in  the  will.  Parliament 
granted  the  amount  without  hesitation,  and  thus  laid 
the  foundation  of  this  great  national  establishment. 
Various  other  purchases  were  made  by  the  same  au- 
thority, especially  of  books  and  manuscripts,  and  the 
sum  of  about  £100,000  was  appropriated  to  the  pay- 
ment of  them,  and  to  the  permanent  support  of  the 
establishment.  The  direction  of  it  was  confided  to 
an  incorporated  body  of  trustees,  selected  from  the 
first  characters  in  the  kingdom,  for  rank,  station,  and 
literary  fame.  The  first  act  of  the  trustees,  was  to 
provide  a  building,  for  the  reception  and  display  of 
the  valuable  collection  confided  to  their  care.  A 
noble  mansion  in  Great-Russell-Street,  Bloomsbury, 
built  about  the  year  1680  by  the  Duke  of  Montague, 
by  French  artists,  and  in  the  style  of  the  French  pa- 
laces, was  obtained  for  the  moderate  sum  of  £10,000. 
The  architect  was  Paget,  a  native  of  Marseilles,  and 
an  artist  of  the  first  eminence  of  his  time.  The 
grounds  occupy  an  area  of  seven  acres.  The  Mu- 
seum was  first  opened  in  IT.'jQ.  Since  that  period, 
very  numerous  and  important  additions  have  been 
made  to  it,  by  purchase  and  donation.  The  most  im- 
portant of  these  are,  extensive  collections  of  manu- 
scripts, pamphlets,  and  books,  by  the  present  king 
and  his  predecessor  George  11.     A  collection  of  an- 


LOKDON.  <)i 

tiquities,  chiefly  Egyptian,  by  the  present  king ;  in 
which  are  two  mummies,  the  finest,  perhaps,  in  Eu- 
rope. A  collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  taken 
from  the  French  in  Alexandria  in  rSOI.  The  large  and 
very  fine  collection  of  antiquities,  made  by  Sir  Wil- 
liam Hamilton,  during  a  long  residence  at  Naples,  as 
British  envoy.  This  was  obtained  by  a  Parliament- 
ary grant  of  £8,400  in  1772.  A  splendid  collection 
of  Greek  and  Roman  statues,  busts,  and  sculptured 
marbles,  formed  by  Charles  Townley,  a  gentleman  of 
the  county  of  Lancaster :  for  this  Parliament  granted, 
in  1805,  the  sum  of  £20,000.  A  collection  of  manu- 
scripts belonging  to  the  Marquis  of  Lansdown,  ob- 
tained in  1807,  for  £4,925.  A  cabinet  of  minerals 
formed  by  the  late  Hon.  Charles  Greville,  purchased 
by  Parliament  in  1810,  for  £13,727:  the  library  of 
Francis  Hargrave,  Esq.  Recorder  of  Liverpool,  for 
£8,000,  in  1813,  consisting  chiefly  of  law  books  :  aii 
additional  Towneleian  collection  of  ancient  bronze 
figures  and  utensils,  of  Greek  and  Roman  coins,  gems, 
drawings,  &;c.  in  1814,  for  £8,200.  A  series  of  mar- 
ble sculptures,  dug  up  at  Phigalia  in  Peloponnesus, 
purchased  by  government,  and  added  to  the  Museum, 
in  1815.  A  most  valuable  collection  of  Grecian  An- 
tiquities formed  by  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  ambassador  at 
Constantinople,  acquired  in  1816,  by  a  vote  of  Par- 
liament, for  £35,000.  In  the  same  year  a  collection 
of  Greek  coins,  and  another  of  fossils,  were  pur- 
chased by  the  public  treasury,  for  the  sum  of  £1430. 

Besides  the  collections  made  by  these  munificent 
appropriations,  the  trustees,  from  the  funds  at  their 
own  disposal,  have  made  numerous  additions  to  the 
general  stock  in  its  various  departments.     The  dona- 


92  LONDON. 

tions  of  individuals,  likewise,  have  been  far  from  in- 
considerable. A  collection  was  bequeathed  by  one 
gentleman,  of  books,  coins,  prints,  minerals,  &c.  va- 
lued at  £23,500.  Among  its  benefactors,  is  Sir  Jo- 
seph Banks,  who  has  contributed  largely,  in  the  cu- 
riosities of  the  South  Seas,  in  Icelandic  books  and 
manuscripts,  &c.  He  has  long  been  an  active  and 
zealous  trustee  of  the  institution. 

Considerable  additions  have  been  made  to  the  ori- 
ginal buildings.  The  principal  mansion  is  two  hun- 
dred and  sixteen  feet  in  length,  and  fifty-seven  in 
height.  The  ceilings  were  painted  by  La  Fosse,  whose 
skill  in  this  kind  of  decoration  was  held  in  high  re- 
pute. The  figures  are  descriptive  of  events  selected 
from  the  heathen  mythology.  This  building,  with  the 
two  wings,  and  colonnade  next  the  street,  forms  a 
quadrangle,  which  the  visiters  enter  by  a  large  gate  in 
front.  The  two  wings  are  allotted  for  the  dwellings 
of  the  officers. 

Of  the  particular  objects  of  the  Museum,  it  seems 
scarcely  worth  while  to  attempt  to  describe  any,  for 
it  would  require  several  pages  even  to  enumerate 
those  which  must  produce  in  the  mind  of  every  visit- 
er either  pleasure  or  surprise.  The  minerals,  since 
the  addition  of  the  Greville  collection,  are  of  such 
variety  and  beauty,  as  to  form  a  truly  magnificent  ca- 
binet. The  polished  specimens  are  uncommonly  rich 
and  splendid.  In  zoology,  the  Museum  appeared  to 
be  comparatively  poor.  Two  camelopards  have  been 
lately  added,  between  the  two  fore  legs  of  one  of 
which  I  could  stand  upright.  The  top  of  the  head  is 
fifteen  feet  from  the  floor.  These  animals,  while 
standing  erect,  cannot  reacli  the  ground  with  their 


K. 


1.X3NDON.  93 

mouths.  They  live  mostly  upon  the  leaves  and  young 
branches  of  trees  and  shrubs.  The  collection  of  the 
dresses,  instruments,  household  divinities,  &c.  of  the 
islands  of  the  Pacific,  is  very  copious  and  interesting^ 
The  original  copy  of  Magna  Charta  is  still  exhibited, 
but  so  defaced  as  to  be  unintelligible.  An  engraved 
fiic  simile  is  placed  along  side  of  it. 

But,  it  is  in  the  department  of  antiquities  that  this 
Museum  stands  pre-eminent.  Since  the  addition  of 
the  Elgin  and  Phigalian  marbles,  and  more  lately 
those  from  Egypt,  the  collection  cannot,  I  suppose,  be 
equalled  any  where.  The  colossal  bust  of  Memnon, 
^ust  introduced  into  the  rooms,  strikes  the  beholder 
with  astonishment,  though  it  is  still  prostrate  upon  the 
sled  on  which  it  was  drawn  in. 

In  these  rooms  are  artists  of  both  sexes,  exercising 
their  skill,  and  improving  their  talents,  in  drawing  and 
sketching,  from  the  objects  before  them.  Several 
quite  young  boys  and  girls  manifested  great  dexterity 
in  this  employment;  copying,  with  neatness  and  accu- 
racy, the  figures  of  mutilated  horses,  griffins,  heroes, 
&c.  with  which  the  rooms  are  furnished  and  the  walk 
covered.  The  Phigalian  collection  is  much  admired. 
It  consists  of  bas-reliefs,  representing  the  battle  of  the 
Centaurs  and  Lapithae,  and  the  combat  between  the 
Greeks  and  Amazons.  They  are  sculptured  on  twen^ 
ty-three  slabs  of  marble,  and  were  found  in  the  ruin? 
of  the  temple  of  Apollo  "  Epicurius,"  on  Mount  Ca- 
tylion,  near  the  ancient  city  of  Phigalia,  in  Arcadia. 
They  are  allowed  to  be  the  genuine  productions  of 
the  Phidian  school.  The  Elgin  collection  was  taken 
from  the  Parthenon,  or  temple  of  Minerva,  at  Athens, 
The  principal  articles  of  these  interesting  aatiq«itie« 

Vol,  I  8 


94  LONDON. 

are  extensive  series  of  sculptures  in  basso-relievo ; 
several  large  statues  of  admirable  workraansbip,  and 
various  fragments  from  the  same  temple.  It  is  gene- 
rally allowed  th:it  Phidias  planned  the  whole  of  this 
sculpture,  and  superintended  its  execution.  A  col- 
lection of  Greek  coins,  a  number  of  vases,  and  a  set 
of  architectural  drawings  of  various  buildings  at 
Athens,  also  form  a  part  of  the  Elgin  variety. 

The  very  extensive  library  of  this  Museum,  and 
the  room  containing  the  coins,  are  not  open  to 
visiters  without  a  special  order,  and  1  had  not  time 
to  seek  for  one. 

From  the  British  Museum,  I  went  to  the  Royal 
Academy  of  Paintings,  in  Somerset-House.  This 
academy  was  instituted  in  1768.  Sir  Joshua  Rey- 
nolds, was  the  first  president ;  and  from  his  superior 
taste  and  judgment,  as  a  gentleman  and  a  scholar, 
as  well  as  from  his  exalted  reputation  as  an  artist, 
did  this  institution  derive  a  popularity,  and  receive 
an  impetus,  that  have  not  been  diminished  under  the 
auspices  of  its  second  president,  our  countryman 
West !  Is  it  nothing  to  the  credit  of  native  American 
talent,  that  the  son  of  a  plain  Pennsylvania  farmer, 
who  commenced  his  career  as  an  artist,  with  chalk 
and  charcoal  on  the  doors  of  his  father's  barn,  and 
who  did  not  leave  his  country,  until  he  had  attained 
the  years  of  complete  manhood,  should  be  found  in 
the  meridian  of  life,  at  the  head  of  the  highest  school 
of  painting  in  Great  Britain  ?  If  this  were  the  only 
instance  of  extraordinary  success  in  this  department 
of  the  fine  arts  by  native  Americans,  it  would  of 
itself  outweigh  a  host  of  common  objections.  But, 
^iiile  the  names  of  Trumbull.  Alston.  Leslie.  New- 


XONDON.  95 

ton,  &c,  are  found  among  the  distinguished  contri- 
butors to  the  Royal  Academy,  other  proof  need  not 
be  required  of  the  talents  of  our  countrymen,  in  the 
prosecution  of  an  art,  which,  under  the  guidance  of 
correct  principles,  may,  like  its  sister  Poetry,  be 
made  conducive  to  the  real  interests  of  humanity. 

There  are  six  or  seven  rooms  in  this  institution 
open  to  the  inspection  of  visiters.  The  annual  ex- 
hibition commences  on  the  first  of  May.  The  price  of 
admission  is  ojie  shilling.  The  number  of  pieces  ex- 
hibited, including  architectural  drawings,  is  upwards 
of  a  thousand;  and  the  number  of  contributors  about 
five-hundred  and  fifty.  Besides  these,  there  is  a 
model  academy,  containing  a  large  collection  of  busts 
and  monumental  pieces  of  sculpture.  As  1  have  yet 
seen  very  few  pictures  of  the  old  masters,  I  shall  not 
at  present  undertake  to  describe  any  of  those  which 
may  fall  under  my  notice.  It  would  be  an  easy  thing 
to  fill  up  the  pages  of  a  journal,  with  such  descrip- 
tions ;  but,  except  in  some  particular  cases,  nothing 
can  be  less  interesting,  and  instructive  to  the  reader, 
than  a  dry  verbal  detail  of  a  specimen  of  art,  inten- 
ded to  please  and  instruct  only  through  the  medium 
of  the  eye. 

Of  the  forty  Academicians,  who  constitute  the 
body  of  this  institution,  it  is  remarkable,  that  there 
is  one,  and  only  one,  female.  Lectures  are  delivered 
to  the  students  of  the  academy,  on  anatomy,  painting, 
sculpture,  architecture  and  perspective.  Fuseli  and 
Flaxman,  the  professors  of  painting  and  sculpture, 
are  celebrated  in  their  respective  departments. 

Dr  S.  went  with  me  to  see  a  collection  of  colossal 
statues,  and  ancient  paintings,  exhibited  in  an  apart- 


98  lONDOff. 

ment  of  the  Roya]  Mows.     They  are  the  property  of 

Day,  Esq.  who  made  the  collection  in  Italy,  and 

who  possesses  great  skill  in  selectiiig  and  obtaining 
such  specimens  of  antiquity,  as  are  most  highly 
valued  by  artists. 

13th.  The  pleasure  of  a  stranger,  in  London,  is 
much  enhanced  by  occasional  excursions  to  the 
neighbouring  seats  and  villages,  where,  withdrawn 
from  the  immediate  sphere  of  their  business,  and 
from  the  bustle  of  the  city,  men  of  cultivated  minds 
enjoy  their  evenings  and  days  of  leisure  with  their 
families,  and  in  the  agreeable  and  useful  recreations 
of  science.  I  returned  to-day  from  a  visit  to  two  of 
my  friends,  H.  and  P.  at  Tottenham,  a  very  pleasant 
village,  five  miles  from  London,  where,  by  the  facil- 
ities of  stage  coaches,  which  pass  to  and  from  the  city 
almost  every  half  hour,  and  the  pleasures  of  an 
agreeable  neighbourhood,  they  enjoy  all  the  advan- 
tages of  the  "  rus  in  urbe."  H  is  a  chemist  and 
meteorologist.  His  practical  observations  in  this 
last  branch  of  physics,  are  more  judicious  and  impor- 
tant than  those  of  any  other  observer,  whose  regis- 
ters I  have  seen.  His  remarks  are  regularly  pub- 
lished in  one  of  the  scientific  journals.  Science  is 
indebted  to  him  for  the  best,  and,  indeed,  the  only 
nomenclature  of  the  clouds,  adapted  to  practical  use. 
He  is  publishing  a  work,  on  the  climate  of  London, 
that  will  throw  much  light  on  this  important,  but  still 
obscure  department  of  knowledge.  Among  his  in- 
struments is  a  clock  of  a  curious  construction.  Be- 
sides keeping  the  time  of  day,  it  carries  round,  once 
in  a  year^  a  large  circular  plate,  upon  which  is  fixed  a 
broad  paper  circle,  accurately  ruled  for  every  day  of 


LONDON,  97 

the  year,  and  against  this  paper,  a  lead  pencil  is  con- 
stantly pressed,  marking  out  a  line  which  shows  at 
any  time,  during  the  portion  of  the  year  that  is 
elapsed,  the  exact  state  of  the  barometer  for  every 
day  and  hour;  hence  it  is  a  very  accurate  self  regis- 
tering weather-glass.  The  pencil  moves  only  by  the 
rise  and  fall  of  the  mercury  in  the  barometer,  the 
plate  being  entirely  moved  by  the  clock  machinery. 
Only  two  of  these  clocks  were  made  by  the  inventory 
one  for  the  King,  and  that  which  I  now  allude  to. 

P.  is  a  mineralogist.  His  private  cabinet  is  the 
neatest,  and,  as  it  regards  species  and  varieties,  the 
richest,  I  have  yet  seen.  His  publications  on  Mine- 
ralogy and  Geology,  are  deservedly  popular,  both  in 
England  and  America. 

After  looking  at  a  glass  house  to-day,  I  called  with 
a  friend,  at  the  shop  of  Rundle  and  Bridge,  jewel*- 
lers  to  the  royal  family,  Ludgate-hill.  We  were  po- 
litely escorted  through  the  rooms  of  this  extensive 
concern.  It  exhibits  a  greater  display  of  jewels,  and 
upon  the  whole,  I  should  imagine,  a  greater  amount 
of  transferrable  property^  than  any  other  house  in  the 
whole  world.  Among  the  articles  of  cost  and  splen- 
dour, I  may  notice  particularly  the  following :  a  sword 
which  a  private  gentleman,  (rather  eccentric  if  I  mis- 
take not,)  had  ordered  for  his  own  wear.  The  scab- 
bard was  of  gold,  and  the  hilt  studded  with  diamonds. 
The  cost  of  it  was  4000  guineas.  Three  cut  diamonds 
in  a  small  morocco  case,  valued  at  £50,000.  The 
largest  of  these  was  the  famous  Pigot  diamond,  which 
was  worth  £30,000,  The  next  largest  was  valued  at 
£15,000;  and  the  third  at  £5000.  A  necklace  con- 
taining 20  diamonds,  value  £10,000.  It  is  a  well  known 

8* 


9S  LONDOW* 

fact,   that    no    species   of   property  whatever,  has 
retained,    during    a    long    course  of  years,  so  uni- 
form a  price  as  diamonds.     The  value  of  them  is  es- 
timated by  a  fixed  standard,  rising  in  a  rapid  ratio, 
according  to  the  weight,  or  as  jewellers  express  it; 
the  number  of  carats.     Other  things  were  shown  us^ 
much  in  the  same  rank  of  costlinoss  and  splendour; 
There  stood  upon  one  of  the  tables,  a  most  elegant 
-and  complete  model  of  the  mole  or  battery  of  Al- 
giers, with  the  guns  mounted,  about  two  and  a  half 
feet  in  diameter,  and  of  a  proportionate  height.     It 
was  of  frosted  silver,  and  by  far  the  most  superb  piece 
of  plate  I  ever  beheld.     It  was  a  present  to  Lord  Ex- 
mouth,  from   the  officers  of  the  squadron  which  at- 
tacked and  reduced  the  fort  and  town  of  Algiers.    It 
was  intended,  we  were  informed,  as  the  central  orna- 
ment of  a  dinner  table ! 

I  went  in  the  evening  with  Dr.  F.  to  the  Royal  Me- 
nagerie at  Exeter  Change.  The  wild  beasts  are  ar- 
ranged around  the  room  in  strong  cages,  which  are 
separated  from  the  spectators  by  a  railing.  The  ex- 
hibition is  very  interesting.  There  is,  perhaps,  no 
collection  of  wild  animals  in  the  world,  which  contains 
a  greater  variety  than  this.  Two  old  male  lions,  with 
large  flowing  manes,  immediately  drew  our  attention. 
There  is  a  tranquil  majesty  in  the  air  and  countenance 
of  this  sovereign  of  the  forest,  which  seems  to  be- 
speak such  a  consciousness  of  supreme  dignity,  as  to 
produce  perfect  composure,  and  even  generosity  and 
magnanimity.  The  lioness  has  three  fine  young  cubs, 
as  harmless  and  playful  as  kittens.  It  is  a  mistake, 
therefore,  to  suppose,  that  this  animal  never  pro- 
truces  more  than  one  or  two.  at  a  birth.     The  Ben- 


LONDOIV,  99 

gal  tyger,  is  a  beautiful  animal,  but  with  an  untame- 
able  ferocity  in  his  air  and  motion.    We  were  amused 
with  the  laughter  of  the  hyenas,  of  which  there  were 
four  in  the  collection.     When  tempted  by  the  keeper 
with  food,  they  break  out  into  a  coarse,  but  very  dis- 
tinct laugh,  but  with  much  less  of  the  humourous  in 
it  than  the  terrific.     Panthers,  leopards,  lynxes,  por- 
cupines, bears,  &c;  were  in  the  collection.     The  Gnu, 
a  singular  animal  from  Ethiopia,  has  been  lately  im- 
ported.    It  unites  the  strong  head  and  horns  of  the 
butTalo,  with  the  mane,  tail,  and  body  of  the  horse. 
We  were  there,  intentionally,  at  9  in  the  evening,  in 
order  to  see  the  animals  fed.     When  the  keeper  came 
in,  and  announced  in  a  loud  voice  the  hour  of  supper, 
the  violence  and  roaring  were  indescribable;  and  had 
not  the  bars  of  the  cages  been  very  strong,  some  of 
the  company  would,  probably,  have  been  the  victims 
of  their  ferocious  appetites.     There  is  also  a  great 
variety  of  birds  exhibited.     The  elephant  we  had  not 
time  to  see,  though  tempted  by  the  information,  that  he 
was  10  feet  high,  weighed  upwards  of  four  tons,  and 
consumed  daily  more  than  700lbs.  of  food  and  drink. 
15th.     I  have  seen   to  day  the  British  Gallery  of 
Pictures   in  Pall-Mall.       This   institution   was   first 
opened  in  1806.     It  is  patronized  by  the  royal  family, 
and  liberally  supported  by  the  subscriptions  of  the 
nobility  and  gentry.    During  one  half  the  year,  it  is  a 
place  of  exhibition  of  the  works  of  living  artists,  for 
sale;  and  during  the  other  half,  it  is  filled  with  pic- 
tures from  the  most  celebrated  masters,  ancient  and 
modern,  for  the  gratification  of  the  public,  and  the 
study  of  pupils.     The  present  is  the  period  of  the 
latter  collection.     It  contained  more  than  1 50  pieces ; 


100  LONDON. 

among  the  most  interestii)g  of  which,  were  two  of  the 
cartoons  of  Raphael,  the  gate  of  the  temple^  and  Christ 
giving  the  keys  to  Peter ;  a  Salvator  Mundi  by  Guido; 
and  another  by  Leonard i  da  Vinci.  The  Good  Sama- 
ritan, and  Christ  in  the  Storm,  by  Rembrandt.  Market 
people  by  Rubens,  and  several  small  pieces  by  Van- 
dyke, An.  Caracci,  and  Dominichino.  The  humour- 
ous and  admirable  style  of  Teniers,  Gerard  Douw, 
Jan  Steen,  and  others  of  the  Dutch  school,  arrested 
my  attention  very  forcibly.  If  the  true  province  of  a 
painter,  be  to  seize  upon  the  genuine  features  of  na- 
ture, even  in  her  most  fugitive  and  expressive  atti- 
tudes, and  to  throw  into  a  single  glance  of  the  eye,  a 
complete  chapter  of  the  moral  history  of  man,  then 
it  appears  to  me,  that  the  merit  of  genius  of  the 
highest  order,  belongs  unquestionably,  to  the  three 
Jast  named  painters ;  whose  performances,  I  should 
think,  must  ever  command  the  applause  of  those  who 
are  pleased  with  the  evidences  of  wit,  and  truth,  and 
good  natured  satire,  delivered  in  the  most  glowing 
language  of  the  pencil.  All  the  pictures  of  this  ex- 
hibition belong  to  individuals,  who  have  lent  them  for 
the  purpose.  A  considerable  number  of  them,  are 
the  property  of  the  Prince  Regent. 

Bullock's  Museum,  in  Oxford-Street,  contains  a  col- 
lection of  natural  history,  and  objects  of  curiosity, 
that  has  deservedly  ranked  for  some  years,  as  one  of 
the  best  of  the  kind,  in  England.  The  collection  of 
birds  and  reptiles,  is  very  fine ;  and  in  zoology  I  think 
it  excels  the  British  Museum.  The  skin  of  the  boa 
constrictor,  or  great  India  snake,  is  thirty-two  feet 
long.  In  works  of  art,  and  curiosities  from  the  South 
Seas,  and  from  Africa,  and  America,  it  is  very  rich. 


LONDOS^^.  101 

The  Pantherion  is  an  exhibition  in  an  adjoining 
room,  intended  to  display  quadrupeds  in  their  natural 
arid  appropriate  situations,  on  trees,  in  the  grass, 
creeping  on  or  burrowing  in  the  earth,  &c.  In  one 
orange-tree  are  disposed  sixty  species  of  monkeys. 
The  mineralogical  department  of  this  Museum  con- 
tains some  remarkably  fine  specimens.  Among  them  is 
the  most  splendid  aggregation  of  quartz  crystals  (from 
Dauphiny)that  I  have  ever  seen.  This  Museum  is  well 
arranged  ;  though,  for  want  of  more  room,  its  contents 
are  too  much  crowded.  It  did  not,  upon  the  whole, 
appear  to  me,  that  the  subjects  were  so  neatly  pre- 
pared and  exhibited  as  those  in  Scudder's  Museum 
at  New- York.  According;  to  the  catalogue,  it  contains 
upwards  of  thirty  thousand  different  articles. 

16th.  Dr.  F.  and  a  friend  from  New  Castle,  went 
with  me  this  morning  to  the  Westminster  gas  factory. 
We  were  politely  conducted  through  the  works;  but, 
excepting  their  immense  size,  and  the  curious  rotatory 
gazometer,  invented  by  8.  Clegg.  there  was  nothing  in 
them  very  different  from  the  works  at  Liverpool  and 
other  places.  There  is  probably  a  greater  quantity  of 
gas  madfe  here,  than  at  any  other  factory  in  England, 
as  the  greater  part  of  the  very  extensive  city  of  West- 
minster is  suppHed  from  this  source.  The  illumina- 
tion of  the  streets,  shops,  and  houses,  by  gas,  through- 
oOt  the  whole  (or  nearly  so)  of  the  metropolis,  is  at 
once  an  evidence  of  the  great  superiority  of  this  kind 
©f  light  to  that  from  oil.  The  brilliancy  of  many  of 
the  streets  and  shops,  is  surprisingly  great;  and  is  such 
as  could  not  be  rivalled  by  oil-lamps,  without  vast  ex= 
pense  and  trouble.  There  are  three  or  four  large  gas 
establishments  in  London,  managed  by  companies. 


102  I.ONDON. 

Coal  is  almost  as  dear  in  London,  as  it  was  in  New- 
York  at  the  time  of  my  departure,  in  consequence  of 
the  tax  imposed  upon  it  by  the  city,  for  the  purposes 
of  municipal  revenue.  I  shall,  probably,  have  occa- 
sion to  advert  again  to  this  subject. 

We  took  a  boat  at  Westminster  bridge,  and  were 
rowed  down  the  river  to  the  Tower,  where  we  found 
an  easy  admittance,  and  were  escorted  through  the 
different  apartments  of  this  ancient  palace  of  the  sove- 
reigns of  England,  by  a  warder,  whose  curious  cap, 
and  large  scarlet  coat,  glittering  with  lace,  more 
showy  than  costly,  and  marked  on  the  back  with  the 
letters  G.  R.  gave  him  an  imposing  air,  which  it  seemed 
at  first  difficult  to  reconcile  with  the  politeness  and 
humility  with  which  he  waited  on  us,  and  his  readi- 
ness to  receive  whatever  we  chose  to  give  as  a  com- 
pensation for  his  services.  As  the  Tower  has  been 
well  described  by  other  travellers,  it  need  not  occupy 
much  of  this  letter.  Its  extent  within  the  walls  is 
twelve  acres.  It  is  situated  near  the  river,  just  below 
the  city,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  fosse,  which  divides  it 
from  the  river;  a  broad  gravelled  terrace  or  wharf  ly- 
ing between  the  ditch  and  the  river.  The  entrance 
to  the  Tower  is  by  a  draw-bridge.  Within  the  walls, 
are  a  variety  of  buildings,  and  several  paved  streets. 
Excepting  the  church,  the  jewel  office,  and  the  houses 
belonging  to  the  officers,  the  Tower  may  be  consi- 
dered as  a  great  arsenal,  or  deposit  of  warlike  instru- 
ments, and  a  museum  of  the  armorial  equipments  of 
the  English,  in  historical  succession,  from  the  earliest 
period  in  which  fire  arms  were  employed.  In  the 
horse  armory,  all  the  kings  of  England,  from  the  Con- 
queror, to  George  II.,  are  represented  on  horseback^ 


LONDON,  103 

dressed  in  the  full  and  appropriate  costume  of  war. 
The  armour  of  John  of  Gaunt  is  seven  feet  high,  and 
a  complete  suit,  made  for  Henry  VIIL,  when  eighteen 
years  old,  is  six  feet  in  height.     Queen  Elizabeth  is 
represented  standing  beside  a  cream-coloured  horse, 
and  dressed  in  the  same  armour  which  she  wore  in  the 
camp,  at  Tilbury,  in  1588.  She  was  a  daughter  worthy 
of  her  sire;  and  ought,  it  appears  to  me,  in  all  those  his- 
torical representations,  to  be  placed  along  side  of  him. 
while  the  axe  which  severed  the  head  of  Anne  Bullen, 
which  is  also  exhibited  here,  should  be  suspended 
over  the  tyrant  who  commanded  it  to  be  used.    This 
room  is  highly  curious  and  interesting;  for  whatever 
ideas  we  may  form  from  the  perusal  of  history,  or  from 
the  inspection  of  prints,  the  impression  is  feeble,  com- 
pared with  that  which  is  produced  by  entering  a  very 
large  room,  where  we  behold  at  one  view,  in  figures 
as  large  as  life,  an  entire  succession  of  kings  on  horse- 
back, in  the  actual  dress  and  armour  which  belonged 
to  them  when  alive.     Some  are  completely  covered 
with  polished  steel  from  head  to  feet;  others  only 
with  breastplates.     In  the  room  in  which  is  kept  the 
trophies  of  the  victory  over  the  Spanish  Armada,  a 
great  variety  of  pikes,  axes,  and  other  clumsy  instru- 
ments of  Spanish  invention  and  cruelty,  are  shown 
with  still  repeated  triumph.  Among  others  are  thumb- 
screws— instruments  of  torture,  by  which  the  invaders 
meant  to  extort  the  secrets  of  their  hidden  treasures 
from  the  English.     But  the  room  in  which  the  small 
arms  are  kept,  will,  perhaps,  surprise  the  stranger  as 
much  as  any  other.     In  one  apartment,  of  345  feet  in 
length,  he  sees,  arranged  in  the  most  complete  and 
symmetrical  order,  and  all  burnished  and  kept  in  per- 


104  LONDON. 

feet  condition,  arras  for  200,000  men !  This,  at  least- 
was  the  iiiforination  of  our  guide.  Many  of  them  are 
so  adjusted  on  the  walls  as  to  form  fanciful  and  orna- 
mental figures  of  different  kinds.  We  were  admitted 
also,  for  an  additional  douceur  of  a  few  shillings,  into 
the  regalia,  or  jewel  office.  This  is  a  small,  interior, 
and  dungeon-like  apartment,  illuminated  by  lamps,  in 
which  the  crowns  and  jewels  of  royalty,  worn  on  public 
occasions,  are  shown  to  visiters,  through  an  iron  grate^ 
the  bars  of  which  are  so  close,  as  effectually  to  prevent 
any  person  from  suddenly  appropriating  to  himself  any 
of  the  glittering  treasure  exposed  to  his  view.  The 
imperial  crown,  with  which  the  kings  are  crowned,  is 
of  gold,  enriched  with  diamonds,  rubies,  -emeralds, 
sapphires,  and  pearls  ;  within  is  a  -cap  of  purple  vel- 
vet, lined  with  white  taflfety,  and  turned  up  with  three 
rows  of  ermine.  It  is  never  used  but  at  coronations, 
and,  of  course,  has  not  been  taken  out  since  the  year 
1761.  There  is  another,  called  the  crown  of  state* 
worn  by  the  King  on  his  meeting  the  Parliament,  and 
on  other  state  occasions.  It  is  extremely  rich  and 
gplendid.  On  the  top  of  its  cross,  is  a  pearl,  valued, 
in  the  time  of  Charles  I.,  at  £18,000,  and  under  the 
cross  is  an  emerald  diamond,  seven  and  an  half  inchee 
in  circumference,  valued  at  £100,000.  This  crown  ie 
privately  taken  to  the  Parliament  House,  when  the 
Prince  Regent  attends  there,  and  put  under  the  throne^ 
at  his  right  hand.  After  his  coronation  it  will  be  put 
on  his  head.  Two  attempts  have  been  made  to  steal 
it ;  one  by  a  Col.  Blood  ;  who,  in  his  struggle  with  the 
keeper,  broke  the  crown  in  pieces;  and  since, in  1815. 
by  a  female  maniac,  M'ho,  thrusting  her  arm  through 
the  bars,   seized  the  crown,  and  tore  it  in  pieceSi 


LONDON,  105 

Nothing,  however,  was  lost,  and  care  has  been  efFec- 
tirdlly  taken,  by  altering  tlie  bars,  to  prevent  a  recur- 
rence of  such  bold  attempts  upon  the  splendour  of 
royalty.  Besides  the  crowns,  this  office  contains  seve- 
ral golden  sceptres,  a  globe  of  gold,  an  eagle,  the 
diadem  worn  by  Queens  Ann  and  Mary,  the  crown  of 
the  latter,  and  all  the  crown  jewels  worn  by  princes 
and  princesses  at  the  coronation,  and  abundance  of 
curious  old  plate.  The  value  of  the  precious  stones 
and  plate  in  this  office,  independently  of  several  of 
the  jewels,  is  considered  as  not  less  than  two  millions 
sterling.  Among  the  numerous  regalia,  is  a  golden 
saltcellar  of  state^  which  is  placed,  at  the  coronation, 
on  the  King's  table.  It  is  of  the  model  of  one  of  the 
buildings  in  the  Tower.  We  had  not  time  to  see  the 
wild  beasts,  that  are  kept  here ;  but  we  less  regretted 
it,  in  consequence  of  the  general  acknowledgment, 
that  the  collection  is  inferior  to  that  at  Exeter  Change, 

17th.  My  excellent  friend,  W.  A.  took  me  to-day  to 
the  Borough-road  School,  where  we  spent  an  hour,  in 
observing  the  operations  of  this  improved  and  most 
important  method  of  conveying  instruction  to  the 
children  of  the  poor.  This  school  is  intended  as  a 
model  for  others,  both  in  the  construction  of  the  build- 
ing, and  in  the  management  of  the  classes.  I  can  only 
say,  that  we  were  highly  gratified  with  the  indications 
of  neatness,  order,  and  skill,  in  its  appearance,  and  in 
the  performance  of  the  scholars.  The  Lancasterian 
principles  of  instruction,  or  the  art  of  managing  large 
schools  at  a  very  small  expense,  is  evidently  gaining 
ground,  not  only  in  England,  but  in  other  countries ; 
and  it  may  doubtless  be  regarded,  as  the  most  valuable 
practical  discovery,  in  relation  to  human  happine?^ 

Vol.  h  9 


106  LONDON. 

with  which  the  world  has  been  recently  blessed. 
Great  credit  is  certainly  due  to  Joseph  Lancaster,  for 
the  extraordinary  ingenuity  which  he  displayed  in  the 
mechanism  of  his  system,  and  the  still  more  extraordi- 
nary perseverance  with  which  he  urged  the  adoption 
of  his  mode  of  instruction,  throughout  the  kingdom. 
Had  there  been  as  much  discretion  in  his  subsequent 
deportment,  as  there  was  of  talent  and  benevolence  in 
the  early  part  of  his  career,  he  might  still  be  entitled 
to  the  high  eulogium  once  bestowed  upon  him  by  the 
Prince  Regent,  that  "  he  was  doing  more  good  than 
any  man  alive."  But,  whatever  may  have  been  his 
merits,  scarcely  less  is  due  to  my  friend  A.  and  his 
deceased  coadjutor,  Dr.  Fox,  for  their  disinterested 
and  noble  efforts  to  preserve  the  Lancasterian  system 
from  sinking  beneath  the  pressure  of  pecuniary  em- 
barrassment, in  the  early  stages  of  its  advancement 
The  former  has  long  served  as  treasurer  to  the  British 
and  Foreign  School  Society;  and  to  no  individual, 
perhaps,  is  the  general  extension  of  this  invaluable 
system  more  deeply  indebted. 

1 8th.  With  several  acquaintances,  I  went  this  morn- 
ing to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  to  attend  the  annual  cere- 
mony of  the  assembling  of  the  Charity  children.  Pro- 
vided, through  the  kindness  of  a  friend,  with  a  ticket  of 
admission  to  the  Manager's  pew,  I  supposed  it  unne- 
cessary to  present  myself  with  the  crowd,  two  or  three 
hours  before  the  time  of  meeting.  But,  although  we 
were  on  the  spot  long  before  the  exercises  began,  it 
was  with  difficulty  that  we  could  get  into  the  house ; 
and  as  to  a  seat  in  the  pew,  it  was  entirely  out  of  the 
question ;  for  it  was  impossible  even  to  approach  it,  on 
account  of  the  amazing  press.    After  remaining  some 


LONDON.  107 

time  in  the  side  aisle,  I  retreated  to  the  very  bottom  of 
the  audience,  and  watchina^  a  suitable  occasion,  made 
a  successful  effort  to  climb  to  the  top  of  the  stage,  and 
obtained  a  position,  whence  the  great  body  of  the 
children,  seated  in  a  large  amphitheatre,  under  the 
great  dome,  and  nearly  the  whole  of  the  audience, 
were  in  full  perspective  before  me.  The  sight  was 
truly  sublime.  The  number  of  persons  assembled, 
varied,  according  to  the  estimates  of  different  indivi- 
duals, from  seven  to  ten  thousand.  The  children 
were  dressed  in  a  simple  uniform,  with  badges,  indi- 
cating the  particular  school  to  which  they  were  at- 
tached. The"  principal  exercises  which  came  within 
the  reach  of  my  ear,  were  the  singing  of  the  children 
and  the  sounds  of  the  instruments.  When  the  strains 
of  Hallelujah  were  chaunted  in  full  chorus,  connect- 
ed, as  they  werp,  wilh  a  simultaneous  movement  of 
the  body,  and  an  elevation  of  the  white  aprons  of  the 
children,  the  ceremony  was  far  more  impressive  than 
any  thing  of  this  nature  I  had  ever  witnessed.  At 
the  distance  at  which  I  was  placed,  the  sounds  were 
full  and  solemn,  and  the  general  movement  of  such  a 
vast  assemblage  of  children,  seated  in  circles,  ascend- 
ing above  each  other  to  a  great  elevation,  produced 
an  effect,  to  which  the  imagination  alone  cannot  do 
justice.  The  sermon  could  not  be  heard  distinctly, 
by  half  the  audience,  and  indeed  it  appeared  to  be  but 
a  small  part  of  their  concern.  The  day  was  warm. 
Many  of  the  children  fainted,  from  debility  and  expo- 
sure to  the  corrupted  atmosphere  of  the  upper  seats; 
but  they  were  taken  out,  and  recovered.  When  the 
ceremonies  were  over,  they  were  conducted,  in  com- 
panies, to  their  respective  schools,  by  the  teachers. 


|08  LONDON. 

accompanied  by  one  or  more  officers,  through  the 
throngs,  which  crowded  the  streets  as  they  passed^ 
almost  to  suflTocation.  The  number  of  children,  col- 
lected on  this  occasion,  was  about  5000. 

I9th.     A  portion  of  this  day  has  been  devoted  to 
an  inspection  of  the  rooms  of  the  Society  of  Arts, 
Manufactures,  and  Commerce,  pleasantly  situated  in 
the  Adelphi.     The  secretary  of  the  society,  A.  Aikin, 
distinguished  by  his  valuable  publications  on  chemis- 
try, and  the  arts,   was  so  obliging  as  to  attend  us 
through  the  rooms.     It  has  long  appeared  to  me,  that 
this  society,  by  its  premiums  for  useful  inventions,  its 
publications,  and  its  fine  collection  of  models  of  ma- 
chinery,  and    of  various  fabricated    materials,   has 
greatly  contributed  to  the  advancement  of  the  useful 
arts  in  Great  Britain,  and  throughout  other  civilized 
countries.  It  was  instituted  in  17.53,  arwl  has  expended 
upwards  of  £50,000,  in  pursuance  of  its  plan  for  be- 
stowing premiums  for  useful  inventions  and  discove- 
ries.    The  funds  are  principally  raised  by  the  volun- 
tary subscriptions  of  members,  and  by  legacies.    The 
room  containing  the  models  aflforded  us  much  enter- 
tainment.    It  serves,  in  some  measure,  as  a  sort  of 
history  of  British  mechanics.     It  contains  many  very 
interesting  specimens    of    inventive    talent;    but   to 
particularise  them,  would  require  more   time  than  I 
can  at  present  devote  to  it ;  and,  indeed,  it  would  be 
difficult  to  know  where  to  begin  or  to  end.   The  great 
room  of  the  society,  is  ornamented  by  a  series  of  very 
fine  pictures,  executed   by  Barry,  and   intended  to 
illustrate  the  maxim,  "  That  the  attainment  of  happi- 
ness, individual  and  public,  depends  on  the  cultiva« 
^\f  the  human  faculties,"     These  pictures  are  consi- 


LONDON.  109 

♦lered  as  ornamental  to  the  capital,  and  very  credit- 
able to  the  English  school  of  painting.  They  have 
certainly  been  executed  with  a  masterly  hand.  One 
of  them,  however,  appears  to  me  to  carry  the  privi- 
leges, even  of  poetic  license,  beyond  its  legitimate 
bounds.  It  is  a  representation  of  "  Elysium  or  the 
final  state  of  retribution."  The  painter,  instead  of 
making  it  a  paradise  of  honest  and  ingenious  mechan- 
ics,—of  men,  who  have  benefited  their  country  and 
the  world,  by  the  extent  of  their  inventions, — of  phi- 
losophers, whose  researches  have  enlarged  the  do- 
mains of  art  and  civilization ;  has  thrown  into  his 
group,  a  strange  medley  of  kings,  statesmen,  poets, 
novel  writers,  bishops,  archbishops,  popes,  &c.  Here 
is  Virgil  leaning  on  the  shoulder  of  Fenelon,  and  the 
author  of  the  Night  Thoughts  associated  with  the  au- 
thors of  Gulliver's  Travels  and  Yorick's  Sentimental 
Journey.  Such  an  Elysium,  would  not,  I  should  fear, 
be  much  to  the  taste  of  the  Newtons,  or  the  Ark- 
Wrights,  of  the  present  day.  The  room,  which  con- 
tains them,  is  forty  feet  in  height,  and  lighted  by  a 
dome. 

In  returning  from  this  instructive  exhibition,  we 
stopped  in  the  Strand,  to  see  a  panorama  of  Athens, 
painted  by  Barker.  The  executions  of  this  artist,  in 
this  style  of  pictorial  description,  are  deemed  of  a 
superior  kind.  His  reputation  is  high  in  London,  and 
we  were  not  disappointed.  The  representations  ap- 
pear so  natural  and  exact,  as  almost  to  bring  the  spec- 
tator, in  imagination,  to  the  actual  spot  whence  the 
view  was  taken.  By  giving  the  eye  a  command  of 
the  whole  horizon,  or  entire  circle  of  vision,  the  illu- 
sion and  the  pleasure  are  greatly  enhanced. 

9  * 


110  LONDON. 

20th.  The  city  has  been  in  commotion  for  several 
days,  in  consequence  of  the  election  for  members  ol 
Parliament.  London  sends  four  members,  and  West- 
minster but  two.  In  the  latter,  the  election  is  popu- 
lar; that  is,  every  householder,  who  is  an  inhabitant 
of  that  part  of  the  metropolis,  has  the  right  of  voting. 
But  in  the  city  of  London^  this  privilege  is  confined  to 
the  livery;  a  body  of  men  chosen  by  the  various  in- 
corporated companies  of  mechanics  and  tradesmen ; 
such  as  the  linendrapers,  fishmongers,  brewers,  &c. 
Hence,  in  a  population  of  more  than  200,000,  there 
are  seldom  more  than  a  few  thousand  votes  taken^ 
even  in  the  most  vigorously  contested  election.  Many 
of  the  livery  men  reside  in  various  and  distant  parts 
of  the  kingdom,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  them 
to  be  sent  for,  at  the  expense  of  the  candidate,  whom 
they  signify  their  inclination  to  oblige  by  a  vote.  On 
these  occasions,  they  must  be  waited  upon  with  some 
ceremony,  conducted  in  a  carriage  from  their  homes, 
to  the  metropolis,  live  well  during  the  whole  of  their 
absence,  and  be  transported  back  in  the  same  genteel 
style.  To  these  inducements,  a  solid  compensation 
must,  in  some  cases,  be  added,  for  the  value  of  the 
time  thus  employed  in  discharging  one  of  their  pri- 
vileged functions,  as  freemen  of  the  great  city.  The 
expenses  incurred  by  a  single  candidate,  in  a  struggle 
for  a  seat  in  Parliament,  are  sometimes  enormous.  I 
have  been  informed  that  an  election  in  Yorkshire  has 
been  known  to  cost  a  wealthy  nobleman  no  less  than 
£100,000.  If  a  candidate  be  a  favourite  of  his  party, 
the  expenses  of  the  election,  are  supported  by  his 
political  friends.  The  zeal,  and  bustle,  and  warmth 
of  a  London  election,  kept  up  as  it  is,  during  ten  or 


LONDON.  11] 

fifteen  days,  cannot  but  afford  great  amusement  to 
one  accustomed  only  to  the  quiet  and  regular  proce- 
dure of  our  ballot  voting  in  America.  Stage  coaches 
are  seen  flying  through  the  city,  decorated  with  flags^ 
and  large  printed  labels,  indicating  the  persons  in 
whose  service  they  are  enlisted.  These  coaches  are 
sometimes  filled  with  men,  outside  as  well  as  inside, 
each  wearing  in  their  hats,  and  on  their  arms,  a  silk 
ribbon,  or  other  badge,  denoting  the  candidate  in 
whose  interest  they  are  engaged.  The  streets  and 
passages,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  election,  are 
generally  crowded  to  excess.  Men  are  employed  to 
carry  through  the  crowd,  boards  fastened  upon  poles,, 
and  raised  above  the  heads  of  the  multitude,  on  which 
are  exposed  printed  papers,  containing  urgent  invita- 
tions to  the  electors  to  vote  for  a  particular  individual. 
Cards  are  liberally  distributed  through  the  mass  of 
people,  for  the  same  purpose.  I  elbowed  my  way,  to- 
day, to  Guild-Hall,  the  place  of  election.  Here  the 
crowd  and  confusion  were  increased.  The  large  Hall 
is  1.53  feet  long,  and  48  broad.  It  was  filled  with  the 
populace,  in  a  state  of  high  electioneering  excitement. 
The  candidates  stood  upon  a  stage,  at  one  extremity 
of  the  Hall,  in  their  court  dresses.  The  voters  en- 
tered a  narrow  passage,  separated  by  a  railing  from  the 
open  area  of  the  Hall,  and  passing^  up  to  the  stage,  ex- 
hibited their  qualifications,  and  were  asked  for  whom 
they  voted.  They  pronounced  in  an  audible  voice, 
four  names,  and  then  passed  on,  and  made  their  exit  on 
the  other  side ;  receiving  the  loud  thanks  and  bows  of 
the  worthy  gentlemen  on  the  stage,  whom  they  had 
thus  distinguished.  The  elections  are  all  conducted 
mva  voce,  and  in  presence  of  the  candidates.     When 


il'i  LONDON. 

a  name  was  raentioned,  by  a  voter,  which  was  not  ac- 
ceptable to  the  audience  in  the  Hall,  they  manifested 
iheir  displeasure,  by  groans  and  hisses,  and  by  calling 
aloud  to  the  candid  ite,  in  terms  of  ridicule,  and  not 
unfrequently,  of  low  and  vulgar  sarcasm.  The  Hall 
sometimes  resounded  with  their  abusive  appellations, 
which  were  checked  by  authority  only  when  they 
amounted  to  serious  and  continued  interruption.  At 
the  conclusion  of  the  poll,  each  day,  every  candidate 
makes  a  speech,  congratulating  his  friends  on  the 
prospects  of  success  to  their  cause,  and  encouraging 
them  to  perseverance ;  or,  if  appearances  are  against 
them^  endeavouring  to  excite  an  expectation,  that  no- 
thing is  wanting  but  increased  exertion,  to  bring  them 
up  in  the  ranks ;  and  concluding  with  a  declaration  of 
the  principles,  by  which  they  mean  to  be  governed  in 
Parliament,  if  successful  in  the  election.  The  City  of 
London  is  decidedly  antiministerial ;  yet  the  govern- 
ment, by  its  agents  and  influence,  has  almost  uniformly 
been  able  to  put  in  one  member  of  the  four.  The 
ministerial  candidate,  this  year.  Sir*.  ******, is  likely, 
however,  to  be  placed  greatly  in  the  rear,  if  not  en- 
tirely to  lose  the  election.  He  is  peculiarly  the  ob- 
ject of  popular  satire  and  buflfoonery  ;  but  his  invinci- 
ble good  nature  bears  him  up  against  the  most  pointed 
and  noisy  abuse.  Should  he  not  succeed,  however, 
it  will  doubtless  be  some  mortification,  as  he  is  a 
wealthy  banker  in  the  city,  and  has  long  had  the  ho- 
nour of  being  one  of  its  representatives  in  Parliament. 
But,  should  he  fail  in  this  election,  he  will  probably 
be  returned  from  some  one  of  the  numerous  boroughs 
of  the  kingdom,  whose  votes  are  of  a  more  manage' 
able  character  than  those  of  London. 


LONDorr.  113 

The  most  popular  candidate  at  this  election,  as  de- 
termined, both  by  the  applauses  of  the  hall,  and  the 
highest  number  of  votes  on  the  list,  is  Alderman  W.,. 
who  has  been  twice  Lord  Mayor  of  the  city. 

Upon  the  whole,  I  have  been  surprised  to  see,  in  a 
monarchical  government,  and  in  the  very  eye  of  the 
police  of  London,  so  much  freedom  of  thought  and 
action,  as  has  been  displayed  by  the  people,  during 
this  election.  There  is  certainly  a  remarkable  spirit 
of  liberty  in  the  great  body  of  the  nation,  which,  if  not 
cherished  by  the  government,  is  not,  as  it  appears  to 
me,  repressed  by  it,  on  such  occasions  as  these,  any 
further  than  is  necessary  to  public  safety  and  order, 

22d.  I  stayed  last  night  at  the  house  of  a  friend,  at 
Bromly,  about  four  miles  from  London.  In  this  vil- 
lage 1  was  shown  a  distillery,  which  pays  a  duty  to 
government,  of  £8000  per  week!  What  should  we 
think  of  this,  in  our  free  country,  where  the  govern- 
ment has  scarcely  the  courage  to  lay  a  tax  on  distilled 
spirits,  which  affords  any  considerable  additions  to 
the  revenue.  We  are,  of  course,  one  of  the  most 
drinking  people  on  earth ;  and  the  efi'ects  of  it,  as.  a 
national  "habit,  are  but  too  apparent — especially  i^ 
-our  villages  and  cities. 

"  War  its  thousands  slays ; 
Peace  its  ten  thousands.     In  the  embattled  plain, 
Tho'  Death  exults,  and  claps  his  raven  wings, 
Yet  reigns  he  not  even  there  so  absolute, 
So  merciless,  as  in  yon  frantic  scenes 
Of  midnight  revel  and  tumultuous  mirth, 
Where  in  th'  intoxicating  draught  conceal'd. 
Or  couch'd  beneath  the  glance  of  lawless  love. 
He  'snares  the  simple  youth.*' 

We  went  this  morning  to  the  West  and  East  India 
Docks.     They  are  situated  at  the  northern  extremity 


1  1 4  LONDON. 

of  the  Isle  of  Dogs,  and  arc  nearly  half  a  mile  from  each 
other.  They  are  each  double — a  dock  for  unloading 
inwards,  and  another  for  loading  outwards.  The 
largest  of  the  East  India  Docks,  contains  twelve  acres 
and  three  quarters,  and  the  largest  of  the  West  India, 
thirty  acres.  The  whole  of  the  excavations  must  ex- 
ceed eighty  acres  They  are  lined,  on  two  sides,  by  a 
row  of  immense  warehouses,  and  the  whole  is  encom- 
passed by  a  high  wall.  The  facilities  they  afford  to 
the  East  and  West  India  trade,  must  be  incalculable. 
We  went  on  board  one  of  the  largest  of  the  East  India 
Company's  ships.  Its  prodigious  capacity,  the  great 
'extent  and  elegant  arrangement  and  furniture  of  the 
cabins,  and  the  order,  and  neatness  of  the  whole,  ex- 
cite one's  admiration.  The  officers'  cabin  is  on  a 
level  with  the  upper  deck. 

I  visited  this  afternoon,  the  Surry  Institution,  situ- 
ated at  the  south  end  of  Blackfriar's  bridge.  The 
building  was  formerly  occupied  as  the  Leverian  Mu- 
seum ;  but  about  ten  years  ago  it  was  fitted  up  for  lite- 
rary and  scietjtific  purposes,  by  a  company  of  pro- 
prietors, who  pay  thirty  guineas  for  each  share  It 
includes  an  extensive  library  and  reading  room,  a 
tolerably  good  collection  of  philosophical  apparatuis*^ 
and  arrangements  for  lectures  on  diflTerent  branches  of 
science.  The  number  of  proprietors  is  limited  to  700. 

I  spent  the  evenino;  with  J.  Sowerby,  the  naturalist, 
at  his  house  in  Lambeth  Place,  and  was  much  grati- 
fied in  seeing  his  museum  of  natural  history.  It  com- 
prehends a  fine  collection  of  minerals,  shells,  organic 
remains,  insects,  reptiles,  birds,  with  various  animals, 
and  plants,  collected  and  arranged  with  industry  and 
judgment,  and  rendered  subservient  to  the  promotion 


LONDON.  ]15 

of  natural  knowledge,  by  the  very  numerous  and  ele- 
gant graphical  descriptions,  of  which  this  gentleman 
has  long  been  known  as  the  author  and  publisher. 
I  could  wish  that  those  publications  were  more  com- 
mon in  the  United  States ;  but  there  are  not  yet 
amongst  us,  sulficient  wealth  and  taste,  to  encourage 
to  any  great  extent,  works,  which,  requiring  the  nicest 
skill  of  the  draughtsman  and  engraver,  are,  neces- 
sarily, of  costly  execution.  We  have  had,  indeed,  in 
one  interesting  department  of  natural  history,  a  work 
which  would  do  credit  to  any  country  and  any  age, 
and  it  received  among  us,  a  merited  share  of  patron- 
age. I  allude,  as  you  will  easily  perceive,  to  the  or- 
nithology of  Wilson.  But  though  the  birds  of  our 
country,  have  thus  been  delightfully  described,  its 
quadrupeds,  its  insects,  its  plants,  and  its  minerals, 
have  not  been  the  subjects  of  much  delineation,  ex- 
cept by  foreign  artists. 

23d.  With  two  or  three  friends,  I  went  to-da> 
through  the  Isle  of  Dogs,  to  Greenwich.  This  island, 
about  four  miles  below  the  city,  is  formed  by  a  large 
bend  of  the  Thames,  and  a  canal,  which  opens  at  each 
bend  into  the  West  India  Docks.  It  is  perfectly  flat, 
and  is  well  cultivated  in  farms  and  pasture  grounds. 
It  is  seven  feet  lower  than  high  water  mark,  and  is 
secured  from  the  tide,  by  dykes  or  embankments.  In 
digging  this  canal,  some  years  ago,  a  subterranean 
forest,  containing  hazels  and  other  trees,  was  disco- 
vered, under  the  bed  of  mud  that  formed  the  surface 
of  the  peninsula.  This  proves,  very  clearly,  that  in 
the  Thames,  as  well  as  in  our  larger  American  rivers, 
the  alluvium  brought  d(  wn  by  the  stream  is  continn- 


116  LONDON. 

ally  raising  the  bed  of  the  river,  and   increasing  th^ 
quantity  of  fertile  soil  upon  its  borders. 

We  crossed  the  river  at  a  ferry,  and  directed  our 
first  attention  to  the  Greenwich  Hospital,  that  famous 
asylum  for  wounded  and  disabled  seamen.  The 
buildings  of  which  this  establishment  consists,  make 
a  noble  appearance  when  view^ed  from  the  river. 
They  are  separated  from  the  water  by  a  spacious 
terrace,  and  have  in  front  an  open  area,  with  a  statue 
of  George  11.  in  the  centre.  A  Doric  colonnade  sur- 
rounds all  that  part  which  is  seen  from  the  terrace  or 
river,  twenty  feet  high,  with  an  entablature  and  ba- 
lustrade. We  were  first  shown  the  chapel,  which, 
with  its  ornaments,  are  considered  as  very  creditable 
to  the  fine  arts  of  the  country.  It  is  entered  by  a 
flight  of  fourteen  steps,  through  a  portal,  with  large 
folding  doors  of  mahogany.  It  is  capable  of  con- 
taining 1000  pensioners,  exclusive  of  seats  for  the  of- 
ficers. Over  the  altar,  is  a  painting  by  West,  of  the 
escape  of  St.  Paul  from  shipwreck  in  the  island  of 
Malta.  A  painting  of  the  Ascension,  designed  by  the 
same  artist,  in  chiaro  oscuro,  forms  the  last  of  a  series 
of  the  life  of  our  Saviour,  which  surrounds  the  cha- 
pel. It  contains  various  other  paintings,  and  several 
angels  of  statuary  marble,  as  large  as  life,  by  Bacon. 
Under  a  large  dome  of  one  of  the  four  principal 
buildings,  is  a  hall  of  the  same  size  as  the  chapel, 
the  ceiling  of  which  was  painted  by  Sir  J.  Thorn- 
hill.  This  hospital  is  praised  by  the  English,  (with 
what  justice  I  cannot  say,)  as  the  most  superb  and 
beautiful  edifice  in  the  world,  applied  to  a  charitable 
use.     The  establishment  contains  2410  pensioners. 


LONDON,  11 7 

149  nurses,  and  3000  outpensioneFS.  Those  in  the 
house,  besides  their  maintenance,  are  allowed  from 
}s.  to  2*  6d.  per  week,  for  pocket  money.  We  were 
conducted  through  the  dining  hall,  just  as  they  had 
arranged  themselves  for  dinner.  The  spectacle  of  a 
thousand  or  more  old  tars,  many  of  whom  were  obli- 
ged to  lay  aside  their  crutches,  and  feed  themselves 
with  one  hand  for  want  of  another,  was  rather  impo- 
sing; and  could  hardly  fail  to  awaken  sensations  of 
renewed  horror  at  the  reflection,  that,  between  Chris- 
tian nations,  a  practice  should  still  prevail,  which 
throws  upon  the  community  so  great  a  number  of 
their  fellow  creatures,  in  a  maimed,  disfigured,  and 
helpless  condition.  We  had  before  us,  indeed,  a  con- 
soling evidence  of  the  application  of  Christian  feel- 
ings, in  alleviating  the  evils  of  antichristian  customs. 
A  school  is  connected  with  the  hospital,  capable  of 
containing  200  boys;  beside  which,  there  is,  in  the 
park,  a  naval  asylum,  on  an  extensive  scale,  which 
provides  for  the  education  of  3000  children  of  seamen. 
When  of  a  proper  age,  the  boys  are  to  be  sent  to  sea, 
if  not  opposed  to  their  own  inclinations;  and  the  girls 
are  apprenticed  to  service. 

From  the  hospital  we  proceeded  to  the  Royal  Ob- 
servatory, and  were  introduced  to  J.  PonJ,  Esq.,  the 
astronomer,  and  his  family.  The  position  of  this 
building  is  very  fine.  It  stands  on  a  beautiful,  and 
very  considerable  eminence,  in  the  park,  and  com- 
mands a  most  extensive  horizon ;  the  country  around 
being  remarkably  level.  We  were  escorted  through 
the  various  rooms  containing  the  apparatus.  From 
the  number,  size,  and  fine  adjustment  of  the  instru 
inents,  and  the  care  and  judgment  with  which  lhe» 

Voi,.  I.  10 


118  LONDON. 

lire  constantly  applied  to  the  passing  phenomena  of 
the  heavens,  this  observatory  ought,  doubtless,  to  be 
placed  at  the  head  of  those  institutions  which  fur- 
nish data  for  the  CRlculations  of  the  nautical  almanac; 
upon  the  perfection  of  which,  the  safety  of  navigation 
so  essenti'iUy  depends.  To  this  great  end,  the  labours 
of  the  former  astronomer  royal,  appear  to  have  been 
chiefly  directed.  But  the  science  of  astronomy  has 
not  been  so  much  enriched  by  discovery  from  this  in- 
stitution, as  the  convenience  of  its  position,  and  the 
perfection  of  its  equipment,  would  authorise  one  to 
expect.  It  is  admitted,  I  believe,  generally,  that 
nautical  astronomy  does  not,  at  present,  derive  much 
benefit  from  the  Royal  Observatory.  This  defect  is 
not  attributed  to  any  neglect  on  the  part  of  the  pre- 
sent incumbent,  as  no  provision  has  been  made  to  en- 
gage his  attention  to  that  special  service.  But,  as  it 
has  been  the  subject  of  just  complaint,  that  the  nau- 
tical almanac  has,  for  some  time  past,  been  extremely 
defective,  it  would  really  seem  to  be  the  appropriate 
concern  of  the  most  expensive  and  richly  endowed 
astronomical  establishment  in  the  kingdom,  to  super- 
intend a  work  so  intimately  connected  with  the  suc- 
cess of  British  navigation. 

The  magnetic  instruments  are  kept  in  the  garden, 
nicely  insulated  from  the  effects  of  disturbing  causes. 
The  present  variation  of  the  needle,  is  24°  30'  west, 
and  stationary.  On  the  top  of  one  of  the  turrets,  is 
a  superb  camera  ofi^cwra,  which  produces  upon  a  table 
of  white  plaister  or  stucco,  an  elegant  miniature  pic- 
ture of  the  various  interesting  objects  surrounding 
"the  observatory.  This  was  very  politely  shown  us, 
and  its  effects  agreeably  exhibited,  by  the  lady  of  the 


LONDON.  119 

astronomer.  The  waving  foliage  of  majestic  trees, 
the  deer  grazing  in  tfl^  park,  the  river  whitened  with 
sails,  and  all  the  varieties  of  a  most  luxuriant  land- 
scape, were  suddenly  thrown  before  us  in  a  living 
picture,  upon  a  table  in  a  dark  room,  where  a  mo- 
ment before,  all  was  blank  and  colourless. 

25th.  With  one  of  my  London  acquaintance,  i 
visited  this  morning  some  of  the  charitable  institu- 
tions on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Our  first  ob- 
ject was  the  asylum  for  the  "  Deaf  and  Dumb."  It 
happened  to  be  the  period  of  vacation,  and  but  a 
small  proportion  of  the  pupils  were  in  the  house. 
We  were,  however,  kindly  received  by  Dr.  Watson, 
who  has  long  been  at  the  head  of  this  establishment; 
and  whose  intelligent  efforts  to  promote  the  welfare 
of  the  unfortunate  subjects  of  his  daily  care,  have 
received  the  plaudits  of  the  society  and  the  public. 
The  house  is  large  and  convenient.  Several  of  the 
pupils  were  exercised  before  us,  and  they  furnished 
decisive  evidence,  that  the  power  of  speech  and  arti- 
culation, sufficiently  distinct  to  be  understood,  as  well 
as  the  ability  to  comprehend,  from  the  motion  of  the 
lips,  what  others  say,  may  be  conferred  upon  them 
by  instruction.  To  whatever  perfection  the  lan- 
guage of  signs  may  be  brought,  it  is  impossible  that 
a  stranger  should  converse  with  a  deaf  and  dumb  per- 
son, in  any  way  so  easy,  and  with  so  little  effort  to 
himself,  as  by  the  motion  of  the  lips :  and  as  the  in- 
tellectual improvement  of  this  class  of  pupils,  so  es- 
sentially depends  upon  the  ideas  communicated  by 
others,  it  appears  to  me  important  that  they  should 
foe  thoroughly  practised  in  this  easy  mode  of  con- 
ducting a  conversation.    I  once  knew  an  interesting 


J20  LONDON*. 

female,  entirely  deaf,  with  whom  I  could  sit  and  con- 
verse with  so  much  ease,  that  a  stranger  would  not 
discover,  excepting  from  the  peculiar  intonation  of 
het  voice,  that  there  was  any  thing  unusual  in  the 
conversation.  She  had  entirely  lost  her  hearing,  if  I 
recollect  rightly,  about  the  age  of  19.  Articulation 
was,  of  course,  more  easy  to  her,  than  to  one  who  had 
never  practised  it,  except  by  the  aid  of  mechanical 
instruction.  But  the  facility  with  which  she  acquired 
Uie  power  of  comprehending  from  the  motion  of  the 
lips,  was  such,  that,  in  a  place  of  worship,  she  could 
comprehend  nearly  the  whole  of  a  sermon,  from  the 
inaudible  repetition  of  it  by  the  lips  of  a  friend 
who  sat  near  her.  In  the  mode  of  teaching  the  deaf 
and  dumb,  adopted  by  the  AbbeSicard,  and  now 
practised  in  America,  articulation  and  the  language 
of  the  lips,  are,  1  believe,  entirely  discarded.  1  have 
not  been  able,  however,  to  discover  the  wisdom  of 
obliging  every  person  who  would  wish  to  converse 
with  one  who  is  deaf  and  dumb,  to  learn  to  spell 
words  with  his  fingers,  or  to  write  at  full  length  all 
that  be  wishes  to  sEty :  much  of  the  pleasure  and  pro- 
fit of  conversation  must  be  excluded  from  so  circuit- 
ous ar*d  troublesome  a  procedure. 

This  highly  useful  charity  is  under  the  direction 
uf  a  society  of  which  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  is  pre- 
sent. 

The  school  for  the  indigent  blind  is  situated  near 
that  of  the  deaf  and  dumb.  The  pupils  are  here 
taught,  as  in  Liverpool,  such  useful  arts  as  will  ena- 
ble them  either  wholly  or  in  part  to  support  them- 
selves. They  are  retained  in  the  school  no  longer 
tlian  is  sufficient  to  become  skilful  in  the  employ- 


LONDON.  121 

oients  assigned  them.  Basket  and  rope  making  are 
practised  with  great  advantage.  In  one  room,  in 
which  a  great  number  of  women  were  spinning,  thej 
began,  from  a  hint  given  to  them  by  my  companion, 
to  sing  together  in  concert,  and  in  a  strain  of  no  un- 
feeling harmony.  To  see  so  many  blind  and  indi- 
gent human  beings  singing  at  their  work,  and  with 
countenances  expressive  of  content,  was  to  me  novel 
and  affecting.  This  extensive  school  is  supported 
by  donations  and  annual  subscriptions. 

I  am  not  aware  that  any  attempts  have  been  made  in 
the  United  States  to  establish  schools  for  this  class  of 
the  poor,  so  deserving  of  the  sympathy  and  kindness 
of  their  fellow  creatures.  A  prosperous  commence- 
ment has  been  made  with  the  deaf  and  dumb.  The 
blind,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  not  long  be  forgotten. 

Our  attention  was  next  directed  to  the  buildr 
ings  and  work  shops  of  the  Philanthropic  Society, 
With  this  establishment  every  friend  to  humanity, 
who  visits  it,  must  be  highly  pleased.  The  plan  of 
it  was  first  suggested  to  the  public  by  Robert  Young 
Esq.  Dr.  Sims,  the  learned  president  of  the  Medical 
Society,  was  its  first  chairman  and  vice  president. 
Its  great  object  is  to  afford  an  asylum  to  the  chil- 
dren of  convicts,  and  those  who  are  trained  to  vi- 
cious courses,  public  plunder,  infamy  and  ruin.  It  is 
the  peculiar  distinction  of  this  society,  to  seek  for 
children  in  the  nurseries  of  vice  and  iniquity,  in  order 
to  draw  them  away  from  further  contamination,  and 
to  bring  them  up  to  the  useful  purposes  of  life.  Pri- 
sons, bridewells,  and  courts  of  justice,  afford  the 
materials  upon  which  this  society  displays  its  bounty. 
They  are  seldom  taken  younger  than  eight  or  nine. 

10* 


-122  LONDOV. 

or  older  than  twelve.  Within  the  buildings  of  the 
society,  are  more  than  sixty  different  wards.  The 
apartments  of  the  girls  are  separated  from  those  ol' 
the  boys,  by  a  high  wall  which  prevents  all  inter- 
course. The  boys  receive  a  sufficient  share  of 
school  learning,  and  are  placed,  on  their  admission,  in 
one  of  the  various  manufactories  or  work  shops, 
which  are  conducted  by  master  workmen  and  jour- 
neymen. The  principal  trades  pursued,  are  print- 
ing, copper-plate  printing,  bookbinding,  shoemaking, 
tailoring,  rope-making,  and  twine  spinning.  A  por- 
tion of  each  boy's  earnings  goes  to  his  credit,  and  is 
given  to  him  at  his  discharge.  Besides  receiving 
those  poor  juvenile  offenders  in  their  establishment, 
the  committee  have  adopted  the  plan  of  appren- 
ticing out  some  of  the  best  behaved  boys,  to  trades- 
men of  good  character,  with  a  sufficient  premium ; 
but  they  are  still  considered  as  under  the  care  of  the 
society.  The  girls  make  their  own  clothing,  and 
shirts  for  the  boys ;  wash  and  mend  for  the  manufac- 
tory;  and,  in  short,  are  educated  so  as  to  qualify  them 
for  useful  and  respectable  service.  About  one-hun- 
dred and  fifty  boys  are  within  the  walls,  and  more 
than  fifty  girls.  The  society  has  a  house,  in  another 
part  of  the  town,  called  the  Reform,  where  the  most 
hardened  offenders  are  first  introduced,  and  where 
they  are  carefully  instructed  in  the  obligations  of 
morality  and  religion,  and  in  school  learning.  When 
out  of  school,  they  are  here  employed  in  picking 
oakum.  In  passing  through  the  work  shops  of  this 
beneficent  institution,  where  industry  and  skill  were 
apparent,  it  was  cheering  to  find  that  so  many 
w/retched  children  were  "  snatched  as  fire  brands"' 


LONDON.  12'4 

from  criminality  and  ruin,  and  restored  to  the  pros- 
pects of  respectable  and  honourable  life.  The 
chapel  of  the  establishment  is  remarkable  for  its 
neatness.  It  serves  for  a  considerable  auditory,  in 
addition  to  that  of  the  institution. 

Taking  a  boat  at  Vauxhall  bridge,  we  proceeded 
up  the  river  to  Chelsea,  and  looked  into  the  large 
hospital  there.  This  is  a  royal  establishment  for  inva- 
lid soldiers,  as  that  of  Greenwich  is  for  seamen.  The 
whole  front  of  the  building  is  804  feet.  Next  the 
river,  it  forms  three  sides  of  a  hollow  square.  The 
hospital  with  the  gardens,  (which  are  laid  out  in  a 
stiff,  bad  taste,)  covers  about  forty  acres  of  ground. 
The  rooms  of  the  house  contain  500  persons ;  but 
the  number  of  out  door  pensioners  is  no  less  than 
50,000  !  What  a  tax  is  this  upon  martial  glory!  and 
what,  to  an  independent  and  honest  mind,  is  a  daily 
ration  of  soup  and  potatoes,  in  comparison  with  the 
loss  of  a  leg  or  arm ;  or  a  constitution  physically 
and  morally  diseased  !  How  incalculable  are  the 
mischiefs  and  the  miseries  of  war,  the  deepest  of  all 
stains  upon  the  history  of  Christians!  The  out  door 
pensioners  reside  mostly  in  the  town  of  Chelsea;  and 
its  appearances  are  such  as  might  be  supposed  to 
result  from  such  a  population, — the  reverse  of  clean- 
liness and  comfort. 

We  stopped,  on  our  return,  at  the  rooms  of  Chan- 
try, the  sculptor,  who  at  present,  as  an  artist,  stands 
unrivalled  in  Great  Britain.  His  performances  are 
indeed  exquisitely  fine.  He  is  allowed,  if  1  mistake 
not,  to  equal  any  of  his  predecessors  in  England,  in 
the  delicacy  and  beauty  of  his  execution,  if  not  in  the 
spirit  and  poetry  of  his  design.  One  of  the  pieces 
which  we  saw  in  the  shop,  a  single  statue,  was  to  cost 


124  LONDON. 

the  gentleman  who  bespoke  it,  5,()0()  guineas ;  and 
another,  ol"  rather  more  labour,  was  agreed  for  at 
£7,000.  Chantry  has  risen,  I  am  informed,  to  this  pin- 
nacle of  distinction  in  his  profession,  solely  by  the 
eflfbrts  of  native  genius.  He  was  originally  a  poor 
country  lad,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Sheffield,  whose 
occupation  was  to  drive  an  ass  to  the  town  with  buck- 
ets of  milk.  Having  evinced  a  turn  for  sketching  and 
carving,  he  was  patronized  by  a  liberal-minded  indi- 
vidual, so  far  as  to  be  placed  in  a  situation  where  he 
received  some  instruction ;  and  having  reached  Lon- 
don, he  rapidly  rose  to  the  eminence  he  now  holds. 

In  passing  through  Leicester-square,  we  visited  the 
celebrated  collection  of  pictures  in  worsted,  by 
Miss  Lin  wood.  There  are  in  the  different  rooms, 
upwards  of  sixty  pieces,  all,  or  nearly  all,  executed 
by  her  own  needle.  They  consist  of  imitations  of 
pictures,  selected  from  the  works  of  different  artists, 
by  variously  coloured  threads  of  worsted.  The  re- 
semblance to  painting  is  so  exact,  that  very  few  per- 
sons, at  the  distance  of  a  few  feet,  could  make  the 
distinction.  The  brightness  of  the  colours  is  admi- 
rably preserved.  In  the  selection  of  pictures  for 
imitation,  this  lady  has  shown  great  delicacy  of  taste 
and  judgment;  and  the  surprising  degree  of  patience 
and  industry,  as  well  as  skill,  which  the  collection 
displays,  must  afford  no  ordinary  share  of  pleasure 
to  every  visiter.  She  was  once  offered,  it  is  said, 
3,000  guineas  for  a  single  piece, — a  copy  of  the  Sal- 
vator  Mundi,  of  Carlo  Dolci. 

26th.  I  was  conducted  this  morning,  by  a  gentle- 
man of  considerable  celebrity  in  the  chemical  world, 
through  the  London  Institution.  An  elegant  stone 
building  has  been  erected  by  this  society,  in  an  open 


LONDON.  125 

and  agreeable  situation  in  Moorfields.  It  contains 
an  admirable  arrangement  of  lecture  and  reading 
rooms,  now  nearly  completed.  The  collection  of  ap- 
paratus is  eiittensive  and  costly.  The  library  is  97 
feet  by  42,  with  a  gallery  on  each  side,  and  contains 
a  valuable  and  well  selected  variety  of  books.  The 
lectures  hare  not  yet  commenced.  This  institution 
is  supported  by  donations,  and  funds  raised  by  a  sub- 
scription stock.  It  corresponds  in  its  objects  with 
the  Royal  Institution  in  Westminster,  and  bids  fair  to 
rival  it  in  popularity  and  usefulness;  though  it  must 
be  long  before  it  can  send  forth  to  the  world  a  series 
of  discoveries,  equally  brilliant  and  important  to  sci- 
ence, as  those  which  were  made  in  the  latter  institu* 
tion  by  Sir  Humphrey  Davy. 

I  gladly  accepted  an  invitation  of  two  of  mj 
friends,  both  fellows  of  the  R.  S.,  to  go  with  them  to- 
day to  a  meeting  of  a  committee  of  the  society,  which 
assembles  annually  at  the  Royal  Observatory  at 
Greenwich,  for  the  purpose  of  inspecting  the  in- 
struments at  that  place,  and  reporting  upon  their 
condition.  We  met  there  about  thirty  persons,  com- 
prehending the  most  active  and  learned  members  of 
that  body.  Among  them  were  Sir  Joseph  Banks^ 
Earl  Morton,  Dr.  Wollaston,  Dr.  Herschel,  James 
Watt,  Dr.  Young,  Sir  E.  Home,  W.  Allen,  W.  H. 
Pepys,  C.  Hatchett,  W.  Brande,  Sir  H.  Englefield» 
Sir  B.  Hobhouse,  and  several  other  distinguished 
members  of  the  society,  with  a  few  other  persons  oi 
note  in  the  republic  of  science.  After  proceeding 
through  the  several  apartments  of  the  observatory^ 
and  examining  the  instruments,  the  company  ad- 
journed to  an  inn  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  par- 
took of  an  excellent  dinner.     The  graver  features  of 


125  LONDON. 

philosophy  softened  into  the  easeof  soeinl  familiarity, 
and  conversation  llovved  without  restraint.  It  was  a 
union  of  men  of  the  highest  order  of  intellectual 
acquirements,  and  under  circumstances  favourahle  to 
the  sympathies  of  the  heart.  It  would  be  impossible 
perhaps  to  assemble  an  equal  number  of  men,  of  any 
one  nation,  in  which  should  be  comprised  a  greater 
amount  of  profound  knowledge  in  every  department 
of  science  and  learning.  The  conversation  naturally 
turned  upon  subjects  relative  to  the  arts.  Rennie^ 
the  celebrated  eiigineer.  happened  to  sit  near  me  at 
table,  and  by  his  intelligent  and  instructive  conver- 
sation, increased  the  respect  which  his  tall,  fine  figure 
is  calculated  to  inspire.  He  was  ir)quisitive  with 
respect  to  the  arts  in  America,  and  appeared  to  be 
infliuenced  by  a  candid  and  liberal  judgment.  The 
various  public  works,  at  present  under  the  direction 
of  this  great  engineer,  involve  an  expenditure,  I  was 
told,  of  not  less  than  £6.000,000  sterhng  ! 

From  the  age  and  growing  infirmities  of  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Royal  Society,  it  is  scarcely  probable 
that  he  will  again  officiate  on  this  annual  occasion. 
1  know  not  whether  it  was  a  sentiment  of  this  kind^ 
which  induced  the  committee  to  propose  his  health, 
at  the  table,  and  to  drink  it  standing,  with  nine  cheers. 
He  endeavoured,  with  great  modesty  and  firmness, 
but  ineffectually,  to  prevent  it ;  and  afterwards  jocose- 
ly said,  that  he  feared  the  Royal  Society  was  going 
crazy.*     The  noise  of  this  cheering,  and  of  the  ge* 

*  On  advertinf  to  the  circumstances  of  this  meeting,  at  Sir  Joseph  Banks, 
six  or  eight  months  aftervrards,  he  told  me  that  the  noise  of  the  dining  room, 
occasioned  the  people  about  the  inn  to  inquire  what  company  it  was,  and 
that  they  were  answered  by  some  persons  who  pretended  to  be  very  wise, 
that  it  was  the  Royal  Insurance  Company. 


LONDON.  127 

neral  hilarity  subsequent  to  it,  did  not,  it  is  true,  ex- 
actly comport  with  the  character  of  this  learned  so- 
ciety, and  certainly  formed  a  curious  contrast  with 
the  grave  formality  of  their  meetings  in  Somerset 
House. 

27th.  After  an  agreeable  call  this  morning  on  R 
R.  Esq.  our  minister  at  this  court,  I  rambled  through 
Bond-street;  formerly  celebrated  as  a  lounge  for  those 
fashionable  idlers,  whose  object  is  to  display  their 
figures,  and  to  derive  an  ephemeral  consequence  from 
the  skill  and  adroitness  of  their  taylors.  There  is 
nothing  at  present  in  this  street,  except  the  glitter  of 
the  shops,  that  can  render  it  desirable  as  a  public 
promenade.  It  is  greatly  inferior  to  Broad-way,  in 
New-York,  in  width  and  pleasantness,  and  has  ceased 
to  equal  it  in  fashionable  and  luxurious  display. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  street  is  Dubourg's 
exhibition  of  models  of  the  most  celebrated  remains 
of  ancient  amphitheatres,  temples,  mausoleums,  cata- 
combs, &c.  in  Rome,  Naples,  Verona,  and  the  south 
of  France.  They  are  executed  in  cork,  and  are 
admitted  to  possess  great  merit  in  point  of  fidelity. 
The  proprietor  is  a  Frenchman,  who  travelled 
through  the  south  of  Europe  for  the  purpose  of 
copying  these  celebrated  remains  of  Roman  anti- 
quity. He  has  long  been  established  in  London ;  and 
whoever  visits  the  collection  without  being  conducted 
through  it  by  the  owner  himself,  will  lose  no  inconsi- 
derable part  of  the  gratification. 

I  called  to-day,  with  a  letter  of  introduction,  on 
P.  Colquhoun,  the  celebrated  police  magistrate,  and 
writer  upon  the  police  of  London,  &c.  He  is  ad- 
vanced in  years  and  too  feeble  for  much  bodily  exer- 


128  LONDON. 

tion,  but  is  still  active  at  his  books  and  his  desk. 
We  had  an  interesting  conversation  on  the  poor  laws, 
and  on  the  best  system  of  administering  relief.  He 
condemns  the  present  course  of  this  count r)'  in  rela- 
tion to  the  poor,  as  ruinous  both  to  its  morals  and  its 
finances.* 

28th.  I  dined  to-day  at  the  country  seat  of  *. 
******  about  four  miles  from  London.  He  occupies 
the  house  of  the  late  Dr.  Fothergill,  a  plain,  but 
large  and  genteel  mansion,  in  the  centre  of  a  conside- 
rable domain,  entirely  enclosed  by  a  high  wall  of 
masonry.  The  grounds  are  quite  level ;  but  so  varie- 
gated with  lawns,  gardens,  shrubbery,  trees,  and  fish- 
ponds, as  to  furnish,  with  the  conservatory  and  other 
buildings,   a  tasteful   and  noble  residence. 

I  staid  last  night  at  the  country  house  of  J.  F.  whose 
wife,  Elizabeth  Fry, basso  nobly  distinguished  herself 
in  the  cause  of  humanity.  The  reformation  she  has 
produced  in  a  company  of  the  most  profligate  and 
abandoned  class  of  human  beings,  (the  female  pri- 
soners in  Newgate,)  has  given  her  a  distinction  and 
celebrity  which  will  descend  with  the  brightest  lus- 
tre to  posterity.  I  had  several  times  seen  her  prior 
to  this  visit,  but  only  with  a  partial  opportunity  of 
estimating  her  character  and  worth.  Her  manners 
partake  in  a  slight  degree  of  the  formality  of  one 
who  perceives  that  she  is  treading  in  a  new,  and  in 
some  degree,  an  untried  path.  But  impressed  with 
a  full  consciousness  of  the  vast  importance  of  the 
principles  of  benevolence  which  she  has  underta- 
ken to  establish,  and  relying  with  entire  confidence 
on  the   correctness  of  those  principles,  and  on  the 

*  This  vrorthy  mag-istrate  is  since  deceased. 


LONDON.  129 

apirit   and   motives  which  animate  her  in   the  dis- 
charge of  those  high  and  solemn  duties.     She  moves 
on  with  a  blended  dignity  and  svreetness, — a  loftiness 
of  purpose,   and    a   Christian  meekness   combined* 
which  i  have  rarely,  if  ever,  seen  equalled  in  man  or 
woman.     The  success  and  the  fame  of  her  efforts, 
have  attracted  around  her  a  numerous  circle  of  the 
highest  orders  of  society,  in  rank  and  influence,  who 
are  desirous  of  her  acquaintance,  and  of  an  intro* 
duction  by  her  to  those  apartments  in  the  prison  in 
which  the  effects  of  her  labours  are  so  conspicuous. 
The  universal  plaudits  of  her  numerous  and  titled 
visiters  and  acquaintance,  have  no  eflfect  upon  the 
simple  and  plain  habits  of  the  ^'' Friend ;^''  and  divert 
her  not  from  pursuing,  with  patience  and  mildness, 
the  enlightened  path  which  her  conscience  approves. 
She  appears  to  understand  too  well  the  emptiness  of 
worldly  adulation,  to  allow  it  to  influence  her  affec*- 
tions,  and   to  draw  her  mind    and  heart  from  that 
humility  and   dedication,  which  are  the  real  basis  of 
her  success  and  usefulness.     She  is  a  preacher  in  the 
society  of  which  she  is  a  member.     I  have  several 
times  heard  her,  and  always  to  my  satisfaction.     She 
has  nine  children,  and  performs  towards  them  the 
duties  of  a  most  affectionate  and  enlightened  parent. 
The  secret  of  her  government  at  home,  as  well  as  in 
her  sphere  of  benefactress  to  the  wretched  outcasts 
of  society,  is  Christian  love.     Their  situation  in  the 
country  is  pleasant.     They  have  a  good  house,  finelj 
cultivated  grounds,  a  grove  with  winding  gravelled 
walks,  a  fruit  garden,  &c.;   but  her  services  in  the 
city  require   her   residence   in  town,  during   much 
of  the  year.     Her  person  is  tall  and  dignified.     Her 
Vot.  I.  11 


i30  LONDON. 

physiognomy,  open  and  intelligent;  and,  though  it 
would  not  be  accounted  handsome,  it  is  by  no  means 
the  reverse.  Tiiere  is  an  expression  oi  grace  and 
kindness  in  it,  which  more  than  compensates  for  the 
absence  of  personal  beauty. 

29th.  After  an  agreeable  conversation  with  my 
excellent  friend  on  the  subject  of  prisons,  and  the 
various  means  of  improving  the  condition  of  the  poor; 
I  accompanied  her  this  morning  on  her  way  to  town, 
as  far  as  Stratford,  where  I  stopt  to  visit  a  chemical 
laboratory  upon  an  extensive  scale,  for  manufacturing 
purposes.  The  large  vessels  are  heated  by  steam, 
which  circulates  through  pipes  inserted  in  them.  The 
preparation  of  jelly,  from  bones,  was  interesting  and 
curious.  The  bones  are  brought  to  the  laboratory  at 
two  shillings  per  bushel.  They  are  boiled  and  dis- 
tilled, by  which  they  yield  oil,  ammonia,  and  other 
products.  When  treated  with  muriatic  acid,  the 
lime  is  dissolved,  and  the  remaining  mass  is  princi- 
pally jelly,  of  a  nutritious  quality,  and  valuable  for 
soups  and  other  purposes.  The  distilled  bones  are 
ground  and  converted  into  ivory  black. 

After  dinner,  my  friend  H*****  accompanied  me 
to  Coade  &  Sealy's  Gallery  of  Artificial  Marble, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  The  productions  of 
this  manufuctory,  are  surprisingly  beautiful.  Pillars, 
columns,  busts,  statues,  pedestals,  monuments,  &c. 
are  made  in  the  most  perfect  and  delicate  imitation 
of  the  various  kinds  of  marble,  granite,  and  other 
species  of  rock  used  in  ornamental  building.  The 
material  is  a  composition,  which,  when  moulded  into 
the  desired  form,  and  baked,  becomes  harder  than 
stone,     I  have  noticed  large  pillars  of  this  composi- 


LONDON.  131 

tion  in  some  of  the  public  buildings,  and  had  at  first 
a  difficulty  in  believing  they  could  be  any  other  than 
the  most  elegant  and  finely  polished  marble,  until 
convinced  of  the  contrary  by  the  touch  and  sound. 

Repassing  the  river  by  that  new  and  superb  struc- 
ture, the  Waterloo  or  Strand  bridge,  we  gained  admit- 
tance to  the  printing  establishment  of  Bentley  &  Son. 
where  we  witnessed  the  power  of  steam,  applied  with 
singular  acuteness  and  ingenuity,  to  the  process  of 
printing  books.  Not  only  is  the  paper  adjusted  to  the 
types,  and  the  types  pressed  against  the  paper,  by 
mechanism  kept  in  motion  by  the  engine  ;  but  the  ink 
itself,  when  once  put  into  a  trough,  and  placed  over  the 
types,  is  spread  with  certainty,  and  in  the  precise 
quantity  required.  Surprising  as  it  may  appear,  90u 
sheets,  we  were  informed,  are  printed  on  both  sides  in 
one  hour,  by  a  single  press  of  this  construction,  and 
moved  by  the  steam  engine. 

7th  month,  (July)  2d.  Having  spent  several  days 
with  my  triends  in  the  country,  I  came  to  London 
this  morning,  and  attended  a  meeting  of  the  British 
and  Foreign  School  Society,  held  at  Free-Masons* 
tavern,  Great-Queen-Street,  Long  Acre.  In  the  ma- 
nagers' room,  prior  to  the  chair's  being  taken  in  the 
large  hall,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Duke  of 
Sussex,  more  in  private  than  on  the  preceding  occa- 
sion. He  spoke  with  much  affabiHty  to  those  to 
whom  he  was  introduced.  With  Professor  Pictet  of 
Geneva,  who  was  present,  he  conversed  fluently  in 
French.  The  audience  was  large  and  respectable. 
The  Duke  presided,  and  addressed  the  meeting  seve- 
ral times,  very  much  to  the  purpose.  An  animated 
and  eloquent  speech  was  made  by  Wilberforce,  iu 


1 32  LONDOK^. 

which  he  adverted  to  the  natural  ties  between  Eng- 
land and  America,  in  terms  which  were  honourable 
to  him,  both  as  a  statesman  and  a  Christian.  A 
French  gentleman  delivered  a  speech  in  broken 
English ;  but  so  appropriate,  and  with  so  much  un- 
affected candour,  as  to  render  even  his  blunders 
amusing  and  interesting.  The  audience  appeared 
to  take  a  deep  interest  in  the  important  objects  of 
the  society ;  and  every  pertinent  allusion,  to  the  mag- 
nitude of  its  concerns,  on  the  part  of  the  speakers, 
appeared  to  excite  the  liveliest  sensations. 

3d.  1  had  the  pleasure,  this  morning,  of  visiting 
Newgate  prison,  at  the  invitation  of  Elizabeth  Fry. 
A  number  of  strangers,  among  whom  were  several 
foreigners,  were  also  present.  The  prisoners,  upon 
our  being  admitted  by  the  turnkey,  were  as  quiet  and 
orderly  as  are  the  labourers  in  a  common  manufac- 
tory. Habituated  to  the  entrance  of  strangers,  almost 
daily,  since  the  late  reform,  they  are  no  longer  dis- 
turbed by  it,  but  attend  to  their  labours  without  much 
interruption.  In  one  small  apartment,  a  school  was 
kept  by  one  of  the  prisoners,  in  which  a  number  of 
children,  whose  mothers  were  within  the  walls  for 
various  crimes,  were  taught  to  spell  and  read.  There 
was  a  modest  ditiidence  in  the  air  of  their  young  mis- 
tress, which  could  hardly  fail  to  excite  the  sympathy 
of  every  visiter.  The  prisoners  are  provided  with 
work,  according  to  their  capacity,  consisting,  princi- 
pally, of  knitting  and  sewing.  Various  articles  of  men 
and  women's  wear,  bed-quilts,  pincushions,  &c,  very 
neatly  made  by  them,  are  kept  for  sale,  and  find  a 
ready  market  in  the  company,  whom  humanity  and 
curiosity  attract  to  the  prison. 


LONDON.  1 33^ 

At  an  appointed  hour  the  women  were  collected 
in  one  room,  and  after  being  quietly  seated,  and  re- 
maining for  a  few  minutes  in  stillness,  their  excellent 
benefactress  opened  the  Bible,  and  read  to  them  one 
or  two  chapters,  judiciously  selected  for  the  occasion. 
The  tone  of  her  voice,  her  enunciation  and  emphasis, 
particularly  when  she  reads  the  Scriptures,  are  so 
peculiarly  impressive,  as  to  command  the  attention  of 
all  her  auditors.  Many  persons  of  taste  and  learning, 
who  have  witnessed  her  exercises  on  these  occasions, 
have  acknowledged,  I  have  been  told,  that  they  had 
never  heard  the  Bible  well  read  before.  She  fre- 
quently comments  upon  the  passages  she  has  read, 
with  a  feeling  which  gains  the  whole  attention  of  the 
wretched  class  which  she  addresses.  Her  exhorta- 
tions, though  pointed  and  close,  are  clothed  in  such 
a  spirit  of  love,  as  to  subdue  the  obduracy  of  those 
hardened  offenders;  many  of  whom,  in  all  probabi- 
lity, had  never  heard  the  language  of  Christian  kind- 
ness addressed  to  them  before.  Their  demeanour, 
while  thus  collected,  had  nothing  of  that  almost  fero- 
cious boldness,  and  contempt  for  every  thing  serious, 
which  marked  their  conduct  when  this  humane  enter- 
prise was  first  undertaken.  There  was  a  mixture  of 
shame,  sorrow,  and  reserve,  in  their  countenances, 
which  proved  that  better  feelings  had  taken  posses- 
sion of  their  minds.  The  keepers  of  the  prison  speak 
of  the  reformation  with  astonishment;  and  every 
visiter  retires  with  admiration,  at  the  proof  which 
this  eminent  example  affords,  of  the  benign  and  re- 
sistless efficacy  of  the  Gospel  spirit,  over  the  most 
corrupt  passions  and  habits  of  human  nature. 

4th.    In  the  course  of  a  walk  to-day,  through  South- 
13  * 


134  LONDON. 

wark  and  Westminster,  I  went  toCovent  Garden,  and 
elbowed  my  way,  but  not  without  difiiculfy  and  some 
danger,  through  the  dense  crowd  there  assembled  on 
account  of  the  election  of  members  of  Parliament. 
As  there  is  a  larger  space  here  for  the  mob  to  assem- 
ble in,  than  at  Guildhall,  the  multitude  is  much  more 
numerous,  and,  if  possible,  more  turbulent.  The 
Siustings  is  a  rough  stage  or  scaffold,  temporarily 
erected,  for  the  candidates  to  display  themselves 
upon.  From  this  they  make  their  bows  aiid  speeches 
to  the  polite  audience  below,  and  receive  in  return, 
the  most  vociferous  applauses  from  one  party,  and 
from  the  other,  such  simple  testimonials  as  dirt,  sticks, 
and  stones,  thrown  at  them  in  ample  profusion,  feir 
M.  M.  one  of  the  candidates,  received  from  one  of 
these  missiles,  a  wound  which  confined  him  to  his 
house,  and  had  like  to  have  been  attended  with  se- 
rious  consequences.  Vast  sums  of  money  are  ex- 
pended in  courting  the  favour  of  this  unruly  popu- 
lace. Committees,  engaged  in  support  of  the  different 
candidates,  have  each  their  insignia  at  the  windows 
of  the  houses  in  which  they  sit.  These  houses  are 
besieged  by  the  crowd ;  and  it  is  sometimes  danger- 
ous, in  case  the  candidate  is  very  unpopular,  for  the 
committe  or  their  friends,  to  expose  themselves  at  the 
windows,  or  in  the  streets.  Very  few  indeed,  of  the 
thousands  assembled  to-day,  appeared  to  have  any 
other  motive  for  leaving  their  homes  and  business, 
than  the  gratification  of  an  idle  curiosity.  Composed 
of  the  lowest  orders,  and  met  for  no  rational  object, 
they  appeared  ripe  for  mischief;  and  I  could  not  but 
look  upon  this  numerous  throng,  as  containing  the 
ejements  of  discord  and  revolution;  and,  like  a  fer- 


LONDON.  135 

tnenting  mixture  in  a  brewer's  tub,  restrained  only  by 
the  firm  and  powerful  bands  which  encircle  it. 

in  pushing  through  this  crowd,  as  well  as  in  moving 
with  the  dense  currents,  which  are  to  be  encoun- 
tered in  many  of  the  streets,  I  have  been  attentive  to 
my  pockets,  and  have  thus  far  escaped  the  artifices  of 
4he  light-fingered  gentry,  that  are  said  to  frequent 
this  city  in  great  numbers.  Nor  have  1  experienced 
any  serious  difficulty,  in  my  numerous  rambles  through 
all  parts  of  the  metropolis,  from  sharpers  or  ill  dis- 
posed persons  of  any  kind.  Having  generally  taken 
the  precaution  to  carry  a  map  of  the  city  in  my 
pocket,  I  have  seldom  been  interrupted  in  my  Visits, 
by  the  irregularity  of  the  streets.  There  are  two 
great  thoroughfares,  from  west  to  east,  through  the 
town ;  which,  when  understood,  greatly  facilitates  a 
stranger's  progress  through  all  the  collateral  and  ad- 
jacent streets  and  squares.  The  hackney  coaches 
amount,  in  number,  to  1200.  Not  much  can  be  said  in 
their  favour,  in  point  of  cleanliness ;  nor  are  their 
horses  by  any  means  so  well  conditioned,  or  so  good, 
as  those  in  New-York.  These  coaches  are  stationed 
in  the  middle  of  the  street :  when  called  to  the 
foot  pavement,  a  person  in  attendance,  styled  the 
waterman,  opens  the  door,  and  takes  the  passen- 
ger's direction  where  to  go.  This  person  brings 
water  to  the  horses  while  on  the  stand,  (whence  his 
title,.)  and  by  his  attentions,  renders  it  unnecessary 
for  the  driver  to  leave  his  seat.  He  expects  to  re- 
ceive a  small  douceur  from  the  passenger,  but  being 
under  the  pay  of  the  coachman,  he  is  not  pertinacious 
in  his  demands, — a  halfpenny  satisfies  him.  The  fare 
of  the  coaches  is  fixed  by  law :  but  unless  a  stranger 


136  LONDON. 

is  well  acquainted  with  the  rates,  he  is  liable  to  gross 
imposition.  The  fare  is  the  same  for  four  persons  as 
for  one.  In  addition  to  the  hackney  coaches,  as  pub- 
lic conveyances,  there  are  about  .3000  wherries  or 
boats,  plying  on  the  Thames  for  hire.  The  fare  of 
these  is  also  fixed  by  law,  and  is  very  moderate. 
When  the  weather  is  pleasant,  this  is  the  most  agree- 
able way  of  passing  from  one  end  of  the  town  to 
the  other. 

London  is  much  better  paved  than  any  of  our  cities. 
The  foot-walks  are  of  broad  smooth  stones,  and  those 
of  the  streets  are  squared  before  they  are  laid  dowr>. 
They  are  inserted  to  a  considerable  depth  in  the 
ground.  By  this  means  they  make  a  closer,  firmer, 
smoother,  and  much  more  durable  pavement  than  it  is 
possible  to  produce  by  water  worn  stones  or  pebbles. 

The  number  of  mendicants  in  the  streets  of  London, 
is  not  so  great,  nor  are  they  so  importunate  as  f  had 
anticipated.  There  is,  it  is  true,  a  much  greater  num- 
ber of  miserable  looking  objects,  and  of  those  who 
plead  for  charity,  than  are  to  be  found  in  our  cities. 
But  with  respect  to  another  class  of  intruders,  who 
commence  their  walks  in  the  early  part  of  the  evening, 
and  continue  them  beyond  the  midnight  hour;  who 
force  themselves  upon  the  notice  of  those  they  meet, 
and  especially  of  strangers,  the  number  is  truly  ap- 
palling. I  had  scarcely  a  suspicion,  that  such  an  ex- 
tent of  female  degradation  was  to  be  found  in  any  part 
of  the  civilized  world,  as  that,  which  every  stranger 
is  of  necessity  convinced  of,  by  a  walk  in  the  evening, 
through  any  of  the  most  frequented  streets  of  London. 
That  this  mighty  evil,  which  is  thus  suffered  to  extend 
itself,  like  a  moral  pestilence,  through  the  community; 


LONDON,  137 

concealing,  under  the  most  seductive  blandishments, 
all  the  bitterness  of  sin  and  death, — an  evil  which 
nightly  allures  to  almost  irremediable  depravity  and 
wretchedness,  hundreds  of  innocent  victims — is  en- 
tirely out  of  the  reach  of  police  regulation  and  pre- 
vention,  I  cannot  yet  believe.  Every  precept  of  reli- 
gion, and  every  principle  of  humanity  conspire  to  urge 
the  suppression  of  a  licentiousness,  so  fraught  with 
ruin  to  the  character  and  happiness  of  society. 

From  the  numerous  swindlers  that  are  said  to  infest 
the  streets,  in  the  shape  of  gentlemen,  or  well  dressed 
servants,  it  is  unadvisable  to  ask  for  directions  of  any 
person  in  the  streets.  At  least  it  is  much  the  safer 
way,  to  step  into  a  shop,  to  niake  the  inquiry,  where 
one  is  almost  certain  of  receiving  a  \ery  particular 
and  polite  explanation  of  all  that  we  wish  to  know* 

The  shops  make  a  splendid  appearance.  !n  no 
city  that  I  have  ever  been  in,  do  they  present  so  much 
attraction  and  amusement  to  the  passeriger,  as  in  Lon- 
don. Whatever  may  be  th^^ir  contents,  whether  dry 
goods,  hardware,  candles,  books,  trunks,  or  any  thing 
else,  they  are  arranged  in  the  most  tasteful  and  fanci- 
ful forms  that  ingeiujity  can  devise.  In  some  confirjed 
streets,  and  even  narrow  courts  or  passages,  one  meets 
often  with  a  succession  of  these  fancy  shops;  and  a 
person  must  be  destitutf^  of  common  curiosity,  not  to 
find  amusement  for  hours,  in  looking  at  the  almost 
endless  variety  of  highly  finished  articles  displayed 
before  him  ;  and  yet,  if  he  pause  long  to  look,  he  wili,^ 
in  all  probability,  soon  be  recognized  as  a  stranger, 
and  be  subject  to  the  sly  or  the  polite  notice  of  some 
one,  whose  motives  have  quite  as  much  of  selfishness 
in  them  as  of  kindness  or  civility.     The  brilliancy  of 


138  LONDON. 

the  gas  lights,  both  in  the  shops  and  in  the  street- 
lamps,  greatly  increases  the  effect  of  this  display,  and 
equally  enhances  the  pleasure  of  the  dealer  and  the 
customer. 

The  general  salubrity  of  London  is  very  much  pro- 
moted by  the  plentiful  supply  of  water  which  every 
part  of  the  town  enjoys.  This  is  derived  from  various 
sources.  1st.  Advantage  is  taken  of  the  rapidity  of 
the  tide  at  London  bridge,  by  tlie  erection  of  five  large 
water  wheels,  which,  during  both  the  influx  and  efflux, 
move  a  number  of  forcing  pumps,  which  raise  the  wa- 
ter to  large  and  high  reservoirs,  whence  a  consider- 
able part  of  the  city  is  well  supplied.  The  wheels 
are  occasionally  assisted  by  an  air-pump.  2dly.  By 
the  New  River.  This  is  a  canal,  completed  in  1613^ 
by  Sir  Hugh  Middleton,  by  which  good  water  i» 
brought,  upon  an  entire  level,  from  near  Ware,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty  miles.  The  river,  with  all  its  wind- 
ings, is  thirty-nine  miles  long,  and  is  crossed  by  215 
bridges.  It  terminates  in  a  large  basin,  called  the 
New  River  Head,  whence  it  is  conveyed  by  sluices 
into  several  large  brick  cisterns,  and  from  these, 
through  large  pipes,  to  the  several  districts.  It  sup- 
plies about  5  ),000  houses,  by  means  of  leaden  pipes, 
of  half  an  inch  bore.  Sir  Hugh  Middleton  was  an 
enterprising  golds: mith,  of  London.  After  projecting 
the  plan  of  this  very  important  aqueduct,  and  meeting 
with  no  co-operatio  %  he  resolved  to  undertake  it 
himself  But  having  exhausted  all  his  resources,  and 
being  refused  aid  from  the  corporation  of  London,  the 
work  might  have  been  abandoned,  had  not  the  King, 
James  1.,  come  forward  to  assist  him.  3dly.  The 
springs  of  water,  or  wells. 


LONDON.  139 

The  general  substratum  of  London,  and  its  vicinity. 
is  a  bluish  or  blackish  clay,  very  tough,  and  so  ex- 
tremely dense  as  to  be  almost  impervious  to  water. 
It  is  called,  by  the  geologists,  London  clay.  It  forms 
the  superior  stratum  of  an  extensive  chalk  basin,  ex- 
cept where  it  is  covered  by  alluvial  sand,  gravel, 
and  loam.  This  clay  rests  immediately  upon  the 
chalk ;  the  lower  portion  of  it,  being  mixed  with  sand, 
and  of  a  more  plastic  nature,  is  called  the  plastic  clay 
formation.  Very  few  springs  issue  immediately  from 
the  London  clay ;  and,  whenever  they  are  found,  the 
"Water  is  impure,  on  account  of  the  pyrites,  and  other 
salts,  which  it  contains.  But,  in  consequence  of  the 
dense  nature  of  this  stratum,  the  alluvium  which  covers 
it  is  full  of  water — a  circumstance  of  immense  im- 
portance to  the  metropolis  and  its  vicinity.  Many  of 
the  wells  are  not  deeper  than  the  alluvium,  and  the 
quantity  of  water  which  they  aflford,  is  incredibly 
great.  This  water  is  very  limpid,  but  rather  hard. 
Many  of  the  large  distilleries,  sugar-houses,  and  some 
of  the  breweries,  are  supplied  with  astonishing  quan- 
tities of  water  from  these  shallow  wells.  But  a  num- 
ber of  the  wells  in  London,  and  very  many  on  its 
north  and  northeast  border,  are  sunk  through  the  clay 
to  the  sand  beneath,  and  these  afford  a  remarkably 
soft  water,  free  from  salts,  and  well  adapted  to  domes- 
tic use.  Many  places,  now  abundantly  supplied  by 
these  perforations,  were  without  good  water,  until 
within  the  last  thirty  years.  Some  of  these  wells  are 
of  surprising  depth ;  frequently  more  than  a  hundred 
feet,  and  in  some  instances  three  hundred,  and  in  one 
or  two,  more  than  four  hundred  feet  have  been  perfo- 
rated j  before  a  supply  of  water  was  attained.     But  a 


140 


LONDON. 


more  singular  fact  is,  that  in  almost  every  instance, 
when  the  water  below  the  clay  is  fairly  arrived  at,  it 
rises  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  surAice,  and  re- 
mains permanently  at  that  height.  A  well  at  Epping, 
sixteen  miles  from  London,  was  sunk  200  feet,  and 
then  a  hole,  four  inches  in  diameter,  was  bored  220 
feet  further,  without  finding  water.  It  was  then  con- 
sidered a  hopeless  case,  the  boring  was  abandoned, 
and  the  well  covered  over:  at  the  end  of  five  months 
it  was  found  that  the  water  had  risen  to  within  twenty- 
six  feet  of  the  surface,  and  it  has  so  continued.  The 
water  is  limpid,  and  soft.  This  well  extends  eighty 
feet  below  the  bed  of  the  Thames,  and  rises  340  above 
its  level.  The  rise  of  water  in  a  new  well,  sometimes 
causes  a  fall  in  those  of  the  neighbourhood.  This  has 
been  the  case,  with  respect  to  wells  on  the  opposite 
sides  of  the  Thames — a  fact,  which  proves  that  the 
currents  of  the  river  flow  over  this  stratum  of  clay. 

The  London  clay  constitutes  the  soil  of  Middlesex, 
and,  in  a  large  proportion,  that  of  the  adjoining  coun- 
ties. When  wet,  it  adheres  to  the  shoes,  and  produces 
a  singular  degree  of  tenacity  in  the  black  mud  of  the 
streets  of  the  city.  Barren  as  this  clay  naturally  is, 
it  is  converted  into  rich  garden  mould,  by  abundant 
and  judicious  manuring.  It  requires  chalking  or  liming 
before  it  becomes  well  adapted  to  grain.  It  is,  how- 
ever, productive  of  very  fine  elm,  oak,  and  ash  timber. 

The  mineral  contents  of  this  remarkable  stratum, 
are  sulphuret  of  iron,  selenite,  and  occasionally  phos- 
phate of  iron.  Common  copperas,  is,  in  several  places, 
manufactured  from  the  decomposed  pyrites  which  the 
clay  affords.  Another  curious  mineral,  which  the  clay 
produces,  is  argillaceous  limestone,  in  ovate  spheroidal 


LONDON.  141 

masses.  They  are  traversed  in  various  directions  by 
cracks,  which  have  become  filled,  partially  or  wholly., 
by  calcareous  spar,  or  sulphate  of  barytes,  and  hence 
have  obtained  the  name  of  septaria.  This  material., 
when  calcined  and  ground,  affords  that  excellent  raor- 
tar  for  building  under  water,  and  for  stucco,  knowii; 
by  the  name  of  Parker's  cement. 

Since  I  have  fallen,  rather  accidentally,  into  the 
deeps  below  this  great  city,  I  will  also  remark,  that  few 
formations  claim  a  greater  interest  than  this,  from  the 
organic  remains  preserved  in  them.  Among  them  are 
those  of  the  crocodile  and  turtle ;  several  species  of 
vertebral,  and  many  of  crustaceous  fish ;  of  testaceous 
molluscae ;  most  of  the  genera  of  recent  shells,  or  im* 
pressions  of  them  ;  masses  of  wood,  either  charred  or 
fibrous ;  fossil  copal ;  amber ;  and  in  one  locality, 
the  Isle  of  Sheppy,  there  has  been  found  such  an 
astonishing  quantity  of  fruit  or  ligneous  seed  vessels, 
as  to  have  enabled  one  gentleman  to  select  700  speci- 
mens, none  of  which  are  duplicates,  and  very  few  oi 
which  agree  with  any  seed  vessels,  at  present  known. 
Some  of  them  appear  to  belong  to  tropical  climates ; 
such  as  a  species  of  cocoa  nut,  and  some  varieties  of 
spices. 

London  is  thoroughly  drained  by  sewers,  notwith- 
standing the  general  level  of  the  city,  and  its  moderate 
elevation  above  the  river.  This  has  been  effected  by 
preserving  the  natural  water  courses,  and  converting 
them  into  main  sewers.  Not  only  is  the  cleanliness  ai 
the  town  thus  secured,  but  a  most  valuable  convex, 
nience  is  obtained  in  the  private  accommodations 
that  are  indispensable  to  every  house.  It  appears  t© 
me,  to  be  highly  incumbent  on  the  police  of  our  Ame* 
Vol.  I.  12 


142  LONDON. 

rican  cities,  to  pay  more  attention,  than  has  jet  been 
done,  to  the  very  important  object  of  good  draining, 
by  subterranean  passages,  and  to  supplying  the 
houses  with  an  ample  quantity  of  water.  The  absence 
of  those  very  requisite  provisions,  is  productive  of 
great  domestic  inconvenience,  and  extremely  de<ri- 
mental  to  general  health.  New-York  is,  perhaps, 
more  deficient  in  those  regulations  than  most  other 
towns  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  generally  admitted,  that  the  population  of  Lon- 
don exceeds  one  million.  This  result  is  deduced, 
chiefly  from  the  official  returns ;  but  it  comprehends 
such  of  the  adjoining  villages,  as  form  nearly  a  con- 
tinuous series  of  houses  with  the  streets  of  the  me- 
tropolis. Exclusive  of  those  villages,  the  population 
is  about  898,000.  The  Duke  of  Sussex,  in  his  speech 
at  the  British  and  Foreign  School  Society,  stated, 
that  within  a  circle  of  ten  miles  diameter,  there  were 
1,500,000  souls;  an  assertion,  for  which  he  doubtless 
had  sufficient  authority.  To  furnish  an  ample  supply 
of  fresh  provisions,  daily,  to  such  a  prodigious  mass 
of  inhabitants,  would  seem  to  be  physically  impossi- 
ble, did  not  the  markets  of  London  sufficiently  attest 
the  contrary.  Vegetables  are  plentiful  and  good,  ex- 
cept potatoes,  which  are  very  inferior  to  those  in  the 
north  of  England.  Peas  are  a  delicacy ;  but  cauli- 
flowers and  broccoli  are  abundant  and  excellent.  The 
strawberries  and  gooseberries,  I  have  found,  in  gene* 
ral,  to  be  preferable  to  ours,  at  least  in  size.  More 
pains  are  taken  in  the  cultivation  of  them.  London 
IS  not  very  liberally  supplied  with  fish ;  but  the  fish 
markets,  or  more  properly  the  fish  shops,  display  a 
fine  variety,  and  ^re  kept  in  a  degree  of  neatness. 


LONDON.  143 

well  worthy  of  imitation.  The  salmon  is  very  fine, 
and  apparently  in  abundance.  The  price  of  it  varies 
from  1^.  to  2s.  sterling  per  lb.  The  turbot  is  an  ex- 
cellent fish,  rather  exceeding  in  size  our  sheepshead. 
and  nearly  equal  to  it  in  flavour.  They  sell  from 
10*.  Qd.  to  1 5s.  each.  The  soal,  also  a  good  fish,  costs 
-from  \s.  to  1.5.  Qd  per  pair.  Of  meat,  the  supply  is,  per- 
iiaps,  always  adequate  to  the  demand ;  but  the  prices 
are  considerably  higher  than  in  our  most  populous 
towns.  Beef  sells  from  9d.  to  Is..,  veal  lOd.  to  Is.  2d., 
mutton  7d.  to  lOd.  Poultry  is  still  more  costly.  Com- 
mon fowls  are  from  Hs.  to  15*.  per  pair;  turkeys  each 
l.}s.  and  upwards;  and  geese  6s.  Rabbits,  of  which 
there  is  an  abundance  in  market,  are  1.9.  each.  But- 
ter costs  from  ]s.  to  1.9.  Sd.;  and  eggs  from  20d.  to  3^. 
per  dozen.  These  are  the  prices  in  the  west  end. 
but  in  the  city  they  are  not  quite  so  high. 

One  custom  1  have  observed  in  London,  and  in  most 
of  the  English  towns,  through  which  I  have  passed,  in 
relation  to  the  markets,  which  appears  to  be  exceed- 
ingly commodious  to  the  citizens;  namely,  the  esta- 
blishment of  meat-shops,  in  various  parts  of  the  town. 
It  is  certainly  very  inconvenient  for  a  person  in  busi- 
ness, to  be  under  the  necessity  of  going  every  day, 
half  a  mile  or  a  mile,  to  market.  The  sacrifice  of 
time  thus  required,  is  a  tax  upon  industry  of  no  small 
moment.  The  convenience  therefore  of  a  neigh- 
bourhood, may  be  much  increased,  by  permitting 
a  butcher  or  dealer,  to  open  a  shop  and  expose 
for  sale  a  variety  of  meats.  These  shops  are  kept 
perfectly  clean.  I  know  of  no  objection,  that  could  lie 
against  the  introduction  of  this  custom  into  our  large 
towns,  excepting,  perhaps,  that  during  the  heat  of 


144  JLONDON. 

our  summere,  there  might  be  some  clanger  of  unplea- 
sant effects  from  the  neglect  of  cleanliness.  It  would 
be  very  easy,  however,  to  guard  against  this,  byUhe 
appointment  of  an  inspector. 

Notwithstanding  the  high  price  of  butcher's  meat 
in  London,  and  its  necessary  exclusion,  on  that  ac- 
count, from  the  tables  of  the  poor,  at  least  in  com- 
parison with  some  other  countries,  the  annual  con- 
sumption of  the  metropolis,  as  stated  in  the  registers, 
appears  to  be  enormous.  The  number  of  bullocks 
is  estimated  at  1 10,000 ;  of  sheep  and  lambs  more  than 
a  million ;  and  of  calves  and  hogs,  in  proportion.  The 
total  value  of  butcher's  meat  sold  in  Smithfield  mar- 
ket alone,  is  estimated  at  £8,000,000  per  annum.  The 
surprising  improvements  which  have  taken  place  in 
the  breeding  and  fattening  of  stock,  may  be  judged 
of  from  the  fact,  that  in  the  year  1700,  the  average 
weight  of  oxen,  killed  for  the  London  market,  was 
370lbs. ;  of  calves  50lbs. ;  and  of  sheep  28lbs. ;  while 
at  present,  that  of  oxen  is  8001  bs. ;  of  calves  140lbs.; 
and  of  sheep  801  bs. 

The  beauty  of  the  public  squares,  and  the  wide 
streets  which  open  into  them,  in  the  western  and 
northern  parts  of  the  town,  give  an  ornament  and  dig- 
nity to  this  metropolis,  which,  I  fear,  our  cities  will 
never  be  able  to  boa«t  of,  if  the  policy  with  which 
4hey  have  been  planned,  and  in  conformity  to  which 
they  are  now  rapidly  extending,  should  be  persisted 
in.  It  is,  certainly,  a  narrow  minded  interest,  which 
converts  every  twenty -five  feet  of  ground  into  a  build- 
ing lot ;  and  makes  no  provision  for  free  air,  for  trees^ 
shrubbery,  and  flowers ;  for  spaces,  into  which  th© 
vivifying  light  of  the  sun  can  easily  penetrate^  and 


LONDON.  145 

renew  the  springs  of  life,  health,  and  pleasure.  When 
I  consider  the  plentifuiness  and  cheapness  of  land, 
in  New- York  and  Pennsylvania,  in  connexion  with 
the  plans  upon  which  the  chief  cities  of  those 
two  great  states  are  built,  I  blush  at  the  parsimonj 
with  which  the  ground  was  so  entirely  appropriated 
to  streets  and  lanes,  as  not  to  leave  even  a  suitable 
provision  for  markets.  The  Dutch  were,  perhaps, 
excusable  in  laying  out  the  city  of  New- York  as  they 
did ;  accustomed  as  they  were,  to  consider  every  foot 
of  land  as  valuable,  only  in  proportion  to  its  converti- 
bility into  a  street,  a  canal,  or  a  cabbage  ground.  But 
in  the  foundation  of  Philadelphia,  it  is  surprising  that 
William  Penn  should  have  been  so  regardless  of  the 
healthiness  and  beauty  of  the  city,  and  the  conve- 
nience of  its  future  inhabitants,  as  to  ordain  so  small 
a  portion  of  ground  to  public  use.  It  is  not  perhaps 
too  late,  for  the  municipal  authorities,  in  a  great  de- 
gree, to  remedy  this  obvious  and  serious  defect  in 
those  two  cities ;  destined  as  they  are,  for  ages,  to 
contend  in  generous  rivalship,  for  the  commerce,  arts, 
and  elegancies,  of  the  western  world. 

London  contains  about  seventy  squares  or  open 
areas,  more  than  twenty  of  which,  include  from  five 
to  ten  acres  each.  In  the  centre  is  a  large  space, 
enclosed  with  iron  palisades,  planted  with  shrubbery. 
and  ornamented  with  gravel  wal^s.  Equestrian  sta- 
tues in  bronze  are,  in  several  of  the  squares,  placed 
in  the  centre  or  side  of  the  enclosure.  A  wide  pave- 
ment connects  this  enclosure  with  the  foot-walks, 
which  are  very  broad,  and  flagged  with  large  smooth 
stones.  The  houses  around  some  of  the  squares,  are 
nearly  uniform.     Those  of  the  nobility,  are,  in  some 

12  * 


14?  LONDON. 

instances,  magnificent ;  but  in  general!,  the  architec* 
tyre  struck  me.  as  being  remarkable  only  for  its  aim- 
plicity  and  neatness. 

The  Royal  Parks  add  greatly  to  the  pleasure  of  an 
excursion  through  the  British  metropolis.  The  bright- 
ness of  the  verdure,  the  neat  training  of  the  trees  and 
iSkhrubbery,  and  the  canals  and  bridges,  which  are  in-r 
trod  need  for  the  sake  of  freshness  and  ornament, 
render  them  the  chosen  promenades  of  almost  every 
^iass.  Their  extent  too,  is  sufficient  for  a  ride  of 
pleasure.  The  Regent's  Park  contains  about  450 
uteres,  and  Hyde  Park  nearly  400.  In  the  latter  is  a 
fine  sheet  of  water,  called  the  Serpentine  River.  This 
park  is  the  favourite  resort  of  horsemen  and  pleasure 
carriages.  Hackney  coaches  are  not  allowed  to 
enter  it. 


LETTER   VIL 

Bristol,  7th  month  (July)  I2th,  1818.. 

\Iy  dear  ****, 

Having  devoted  a  day  or  two,  in  the  city  and  vici- 
nity of  London,  to  the  pleasing  duties  of  friendship, 
1  left  it  on  the  6th,  with  my  friend  H  *****  of  Tot- 
tenham, who  kindly  offered  to  accompany  me  on  my 
journey  as  far  as  Windsor,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles, 
in  his  carriage.  Stopping  at  the  French  ambassa- 
dor's to  procure  my  passports  for  the  continent,  we 
proceeded  through  Kensington,  Hammersmith,  Turn- 
hara  Green,  and  Brentford,  and  rested  at  Hounslow 


JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL,  1  47 

to  dine.  We  were  supplied  with  a  cold,  but  uncut 
rib  of  good  roast-beef,  bread,  cauliflower,  currant  pie^ 
cheese,  and  beer;  for  which,  with  the  horses'  feed,  the 
charge  was  but  six  shillings. 

The  road  to  Hoiinslow.  (ten  miles,)  may  be  con- 
sidered almost  as  a  continuation  of  Piccadilly.  One 
rillage  succeeds  another  with  but  a  very  short  inter- 
val between  them.  The  roads  are  dusty,  and  the 
grass  is  parched  for  want  of  rain.  There  has  not 
been,  according  to  the  register  of  my  friend  H.,  (whose 
merit  as  a  meteorologist  \  have  before  noticed,)  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  irich  of  rain,  in  the  last  six  weeks. 
1  have  been,  hitherto,  much  disappointed  in  the  cli- 
mate of  England.  Instead  of  almost  daily  rains,  fogs, 
and  clouds,  we  have  had  nearly  a  constant  succession 
of  fine  weather.  There  has  been  more  sun  since  my 
arrival,  than  I  expected  to  enjoy  in  twelve  months. 
The  thermometer, in  London,  has  occasionally  risen  to 
80°,  and  great  complaints  have  been  made  of  the  heat. 
But  a  breeze  has  generally  been  felt,  which  has 
much  alleviated  the  oppressiveness  of  this  elevated 
temperature.  It  is  admitted  on  all  hands,  however, 
that  the  season,  thus  far,  has  been  unusually  warm 
and  dry. 

Leaving  Hounslow,  we  passed  along  the  northern 
side  of  the  heath,  so  famous  for  the  exploits  of  gentle- 
men of  the  turf  It  is  an  extensive  barren,  without  tree 
or  shrub,  producing  only  a  coarse  grass.  The  surface 
is  very  rough ;  rising  into  coarse  knobs,  which  it  re- 
quires much  labour  to  level.  The  upper  stratum  of 
this  heath  appears  to  be  gravel  to  the  very  top,  with 
little  or  no  loam  or  mould.  Very  large  portions  of  it 
have,  within  a  few  years,  been  enclosed,  enriched,  and 


148  JOl/RVEY  TO  BRISTOL. 

cultivated,  and  are  now,  as  we  pass  along,  under  good 
grain,  peas,  beans,  &c.  But,  of  the  expediency  of  en- 
closing the  whole  of  these  wastes,  notwithstanding  the 
redundancy  of  population  in  England,  there  are,  I 
think,  just  doubts.  An  act  of  Parliament  must  first  be 
obtained,  for  leave  to  make  an  enclosure,  even  of  the 
smallest  quantity.  This,  it  is  said,  would  not  cost  less 
than  5  or  £600.  The  expense  of  levelling,  putting  in 
order,  manuring,  fencing,  &c.  would  be  so  great,  as,  in 
many  instances,  to  render  it  an  unprofitable  and  losing 
speculation. 

To  Colnbrook,  a  considerable  village,  sixteen  miles. 
Hay-making  is  going  on  briskly.  In  almost  every  field 
there  are  women  at  work  with  the  men.  Out-door 
female  work  is  much  more  common,  throughout  the 
country,  than  with  us ;  except  perhaps  in  the  German 
settlements.  Vast  quantities  of  goods  are  transported 
from  one  part  of  the  country  to  another,  in  large  wa- 
gons, exceeding  in  size  the  Conestoga  wagons  in  Penn- 
sylvania. They  are  drawn,  generally,  by  eight  horses, 
two  abreast.  Women  and  children  are  sometimes 
seen  on  the  top  of  the  goods.  Were  they  in  Americaj 
we  should  say  they  were  going  to  the  new  countries. 

The  wheat  is  beginning  to  change  its  colour,  aud- 
io show  signs  of  approaching  harvest,  which,  it  is  pro- 
bable, will  be  much  earlier  than  usual. 

We  reached  Slough  (21  miles)  about  7,  and  drove 
to  the  door  of  Sir  William  Herschel.  His  house  is  of 
plain  appearance,  standing  immediately  on  the  road 
between  Slough  and  Eton.  He  received  us  very  po- 
litely, recollecting  our  interview  at  Greenwich.  The 
conversation  soon  turned  upon  astronomy.  He  invited 
us  to  stay  to  tea,  to  which  we  assented,  and  sent  the 


JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL.  |4§ 

carriage  to  the  inn.  The  appearance  of  the  great 
telescope  quickly  drew  our  attention.  It  is  erected 
in  the  yard,  immediately  back  of  the  house;  the  coun- 
try all  around,  for  many  miles,  being  nearly  an  entire 
level.  The  large  and  ponderous  frame,  by  which  the 
telescope  is  suspended  and  moved,  rests  upon  wooden 
rollers,  on  a  circular  wooden  beam,  or  railed  way; 
and,  although  its  whole  weight  (including  the  instru- 
ment) is  thirty  tons,  the  mechanism  of  its  movement 
is  such,  as  to  enable  a  man  to  turn  it  easily.  Sir  W, 
told  us,  that  his  son  moved  it  when  only  eight  years 
old.  A  stage,  or  gallery,  is  adjusted  to  the  object  end  of 
the  instrument,  and  moves  up  and  down  with  it.  The 
ascent  is  by  steps  to  a  platform,  and  thence  by  a  lad- 
der. The  tube  of  the  great  instrument  is  of  sheet  iron, 
surrounded  by  bands  of  metal,  and  painted,  as  is  the 
whole  frame,  of  a  leaden  colour.  A  tube  is  attached 
to  the  under  side  of  the  telescope,  about  one  inch  and 
a  half  in  diameter,  extending  along  its  whole  length, 
open  at  the  object  end,  and  at  the  other,  uniting  with 
a  larger  tube,  which  is  conducted  along,  under  the 
frame  many  feet,  and  then  branches  off  into  two  small 
houses,  which  stand,  or»e  on  each  side  of  the  mirror 
end.  This  tube  is  for  the  conveyance  of  sound.  It  is 
the  speaking  trumpet,  through  which  this  veteran  as- 
tronomer has  so  often  conveyed  the  result  of  his  ob- 
servations to  his  sister,  who,  seated  in  one  of  those 
houses  called  the  observatory,  has  registered  his  an- 
gles and  distances,  with  so  much  benefit  to  science. 
The  other  branch  of  the  tube  conveys  directions  to 
the  manager  of  the  wheels  and  pullies  which  move  the 
instrument.  This  great  telescope  has  been  erected 
thirty-two  years,  and  is  still  in  good  condition.     The 


150  JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL. 

mirror  is  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  weiglis  2.'i0()  lbs. 
It  is  an  alloy  of  copper  and  tin.  The  Doctor  informed 
us,  it  was  then  in  the  instrument,  but  we  did  not  see  it. 
He  introduced  us  to  his  sister,  a  nimble  old  German 
lady,  of  plnin,  unaffected  manners,  and  much  alive  to 
astronomical  improvements.  She  went  with  us  into 
the  observatory ;  showed  us  her  seat,  and  said  that 
the  Queen  had  once  occupied  it.  Her  brother  told 
us,  that  Sir  Joseph  Banks  once  ascended  to  the  top  of 
the  frame,  which  must  be  at  least  thirty  feet  high,  and 
laid  himself  tlat  on  his  back,  on  the  beam  which  con- 
nects the  two  main  supports;  and  that,  as  he  lay  there, 
the  Queen  happened  to  ride  by  and  saw  him. 

The  great  telescope  weighs  8500  lbs.  It  is  now,  I 
apprehend,  from  the  advanced  age  of  its  inventor, 
but  seldom  used.  His  son,  whom  1  had  also  met  at 
Greenwich,  was  from  home,  or  we  might  probably 
have  had  an  opportunity  of  looking  into  it.  But  Sir 
William  told  us  that  the  atmosphere  was  in  a  very 
unfavourable  state,  on  account  of  the  dry  weather.  In 
the  same  yard  is  another  telescope  of  twenty  feet  fo- 
cus, and  about  eighteen  inches  aperture.  The  tube 
is  of  wood.  It  is  [)ot  in  order.  The  machinery  by 
which  it  is  moved,  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  large 
one,  but  less  strong  and  bulky. 

In  adverting  to  his  theories  of  the  sun,  of  lunar  vol- 
canoes, of  nebulous  matter,  comet  making  and  planet 
forming  processes,  vSir  W.  said,  that  he  had  stated 
appearances  as  they  were  actually  presented  to  him. 
and  drawn  his  conclusions  from  them;  but  if  any  one 
could  explain  the  appearances  better,  they  were  very 
welcome  to  do  so.  He  had  not  seen  the  objections  to 
his  theory  of  the  sun  in  Dr.  Brewster's  Encyclopedia. 


JOCRNEy  TO  BRISTOL.  151 

He  is  entirely  of  opinion,  that  the  asteroids  were 
once  united,  and  said,  that  if  the  original  planet, 
prior  to  the  explosion,  was  as  large  as  Mercury,  there 
must  be  30,000  pieces  each  as  large  as  the  asteroids 
themselves,  still  unseen.  He  thinks  some  of  the  stars 
may  have  parallax,  and  probably  those  of  the  second 
magnitude.  His  opinion  that  there  are  volcanoes  in 
the  moon,  is  founded  on  an  appearance  of  a  bright 
light  equal  to  a  star  of  the  fourth  magnitude,  on  the 
dark  side  of  the  moon,  where  it  is  known  that  there 
is  a  cavity.  He  has  seen  this  light  several  times,  and 
also  an  appearance  like  lava.  Showing  it  once  to  a 
gentleman  of  Bath,  the  latter  exclaimed  with  vehe- 
mence, that  he  saw  not  only  the  fire  but  the  smoke. 
He  thinks  the  satellites  of  the  Georgium  Sidus  can 
be  seen  with  no  instruments  but  his  own,  for  there  is 
an  essential  difference  between  the  magnifying  pow- 
er of  an  instrument,  and  the  space  penetrating  power. 
The  latter  requires  the  condensation  of  light,  and  of 
course  a  large  aperture.  In  examining  small  and 
indistinct  objects,  such  as  the  nebulae,  he  tries  first 
his  7  feet  telescope,  then  his  10  feet,  if  that  will  not 
do,  he  resorts  to  the  20  ieei^  and  then  to  the  40  feet 
instrument.  He  has  one  in  his  yard  of  about  5  feet  in 
length,  with  a  large  aperture,  which  he  calls  his 
comet  hunter.  Sir  W.  Herschel  must  now  be  nearly 
SO  years  of  age.  There  are  about  seventy  papers  ol 
his  in  the  Philosophical  transactions.  We  left  this 
worthy  couple  much  pleased  and  well  satisfied  with 
our  visit.* 

*  This  great  astronomer  died  at  his  house  at  Slough,  ou  the  26th  of  Au- 
gust, 1822,  ia  the  84th  year  of  his  age.  His  father  was  a  ihusician.  Sir 
William,  Trtrs  the  second  eon,  &nd  was  pfar^ed  ut  the  age  of  14  in  the  hand  of 


152  JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL. 

7th  month  (July)  7th.  We  passed  this  morning 
through  Eton  and  over  the  Thames  to  Windsor. 
These  two  places,  the  Ibrmer  celebrated  for  its  school, 
a  large  Gothic  building,  and  the  latter  for  the  royal 
castle,  which  has  been  the  favourite  residence  of  the 
present  king,  and  in  which  he  has  remained  during 
his  affliction,  are  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Thames, 
Windsor  is  a  pretty  large  town;  Eton  is  of  less  size. 
The  castle  is  on  a  hill,  which  overlooks  the  two  towns 
and  the  country  around  to  a  great  extent.  Our 
coachman  understanding  his  business,  drove  directly 
through  the  castle  gate,  (the  armed  centinels  making 
no  opposition,)  and  stopped  in  the  spacious  yard, 
where  it  was  suffered  to  stand.  A  porter  opened  the 
way  for  us  into  the  castle,  and  conducted  us  to  a 
large  hall,  where  a  servant  soon  appeared  to  escort 
us  through  the  rooms  and  explain  the  pictures.  This 
is  done  almost  every  where,  and  serves  a  valuable 
purpose.     By  repeated  practice,  they  can  explain  the 

the  Hanoverian  fool  guards.  He  came  to  England  when  he  was  19,  and  ob- 
tained a  livelihood,  during  many  years,  by  his  musical  talents  ;  but  also  de- 
voted himself,  from  the  bent  of  a  strong  inclination,  to  mathematics  and 
astronomy.  Unable  to  purchase  a  telescope,  he  succeeded,  after  encoun* 
tering  numerous  difficulties,  in  constructing  one  for  himself;  and  in  1774 
first  saw  Saturn  in  a  five  feet  reflector,  made  by  his  own  hands.  He  then 
attempted  larger  instruments,  and  succeeded  in  completing  a  seven,  a  ten. 
a  twenty,  and  finally  a  forty  feet  reflector.  He  laboured  at  one  time  with 
such  perseverance  as  to  have  actually  finished  200  object  mirrors,  before  he 
could  satisfy  himself  with  the  performance  of  one.  In  1781  he  discovered 
the  new  planet,  which  he  named  Georgium  Sidits,  and  in  consquence  of  his 
jreat  merit  as  an  observer,  the  king  settled  upon  him  a  handsome  salary. 
His  large  telescope  at  Slough  was  completed  in  1787.  His  numerous  disco- 
veries, and  the  bold  and  sublime  inferences  he  has  drawn  from  them,  are  well 
known  in  the  scientific  world.  He  married  the  widow  of  John  Pitt,  Esq. 
and  with  her  enjoyed  great  domestic  happiness.  He  has  left  one  eon,  "wIkssf 
falents  and  acquirements  stirpass  even  those  of  his  father. 


JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL.  153 

subject  of  each  picture,  tell  its  age  and  the  name  of 
the  painter,  with  great  volubility  and  correctness,  al^ 
ways  calculating  on  a  suitable  douceur  for  saying  their 
lessons  so  well.     We  were  conducted  through  a  great 
number  of  rooms,  the  walls  of  which  were  ornament- 
ed with  pictures,  mostly  from  the  old  masters  of  the 
Italian  and  Flemish  schools.     There  were  two  which 
particularly  pleased  me  in  this  fine  collection.     One» 
of  the  present  queen,  with  two  of  her  children,  the 
Prince  of  Wales  and  Duke  of  York,  both  very  small 
standing  beside  her ;  and  the  Misers,  by  Quintin  Mat- 
sys,  the  blacksmith  of  Antwerp.     In  one  of  the  apart- 
ments is  a  great  number  of  fire  arms  of  the  reign 
of  Edward  VI.  tastefully  displayed  on  the  wall.     This 
room  is  at  present  used  as  a  chapel !     In   another 
apartment,  our  guide  told  us  that  the  room,  immediate- 
ly under  the  adjoining  one,  was  the  king's  chamber, 
where  he  was  at  that  moment.     A  sight  of  his  majes- 
ty would  probably  have  been  preferred  by  the  com- 
pany to  that  of  all  the  pictures ;  but  it  would  doubt- 
less have  been  the  most  unpleasant  and  melancholy 
picture  in  the  castle  ;  and  it  is,  of  course,  for  the  best 
of  reasons,  excluded  from  the  eye  of  all  but  those 
who  are  engaged  about  his  person.      I  learned  after- 
wards that  the  king  is  quite  blind  ;  that  his  beard  hasr' 
extended  to  his  breast ;    that  his  constant  delight  is 
playing  on  the  piano  ;  that  he  is  seldom  spoken  to,  ex- 
cept on  subjects  relative  to  his  personal  comfort,  as 
conversation,  more  than  any  thing  else,  excites  and 
disturbs  him.     He  is  said  to   be  particularly  averse 
to  the  Prince  Regent,  and  will  not  suflfer  him  to  be  in 
his  room.     The  prince  lately  went  in  to  look  at  him ; 
the  king  said  he  was  in  the  room ;  and  ordered  him 
?oi>.  I  U 


154  JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL. 

out.  The  prince  stepped  just  without  the  door,  and  the 
waiter  said  :  ••'  Your  Majesty  is  mistaken,  the  prince  is 
not  in  the  room :"  the  king  insisted  that  he  was,  for, 
said  he.  I  smell  him.  This  was  probably  the  truth,  in 
consequence  of  the  perfume  of  the  prince's  dress. 
Does  it  not  afford  an  additional  proof  that  the  loss  of 
one  sense,  is  followed  by  an  increased  acuteness  of 
some  other  ? 

We  walked  round  the  court,  in  which  is  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  Charles  II.  and  ascended  to  the  top  of  the 
western  tower,  whence,  according  to  a  statement  on  a 
board,  can  be  seen  12  counties.     The  perspective  is 
very  fine  for  a  country  so  extremely  flat  as  is  that  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  London.     From  this  tower,  it  is 
asserted,  the  bell  of  St.  Paul's  cathedral  is  sometime? 
heard  to  strike,  though  at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles; 
a  circumstance  which  is  reported  to  have  once  saved 
the  life  of  a  sentinel.     He  was  accused  of  having  fal- 
len asleep  at  his  post ;  but  alleged  that  he  was  not 
asleep,  but  listening  to  St.  Paul's  clock,  and  that  he 
heard  it  strike   13  times.     This,  upon  his  trial,  was 
proved  to  be  the  fact,  and  it  saved  his  life.     A  con- 
siderable body  of  the  king's  life  guards  were  on  pa- 
rade at  the  gate  as  we  passed  out.     I  remarked  that 
many  of  the  musicians  were  black,  and  dressed  like 
Turks.     The  whole  length  of  Windsor  castle,  from 
east  to  west,  is  1480  feet,  and  the  area  which  it  covers, 
exclusive  of  terrace  walks,  is  about  12  acres.     The 
terrace  on  the  north  side,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
walks  in  the  kingdom,  is  1870  feet  long.     It  was  made 
by  Queen  Elizabeth. 

Parting  here  with  my  kind  friend  H.  I   passed 
i.jbrough  a  beautiful  avenue,  with  double  rows  of  raa- 


JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL.  155 

jestic  elms,  to  the  park ;  and  made  a  circuit  of  about 
four  miles  through  it.  The  number  of  deer  which 
appeared  in  the  course  of  this  ride,  could  not  be  esti- 
mated at  less  than  300.  They  are  very  tame,  and  by 
long  domestication,  lose  much  of  that  delicacy  and 
beauty  of  form,  which  are  possessed  by  the  same  ani- 
mal in  a  wild  state.  But  their  colours  here  are  very 
various,  brown,  spotted,  anc'  some  quite  white.  They 
grow  to  a  large  size.  The  park  of  Windsor  is  very 
extensive,  containing,  it  is  said,  3800  acres;  and  a 
little  park,  on  the  north  and  east  side  of  the  town^ 
contains  500  acres. 

Eton  college  stands  by  the  way-side,  in  the  village 
of  the  same  name.  We  had  not  time  to  look  into  it; 
and  excepting  its  air  of  antiquity,  there  was  nothing 
in  the  exterior  to  recommend  it  to  our  particular 
attention. 

I  left  Slough  about  half  past  six  p.  m..  in  the  Bath 
coach.  At  Hungerford  we  entered  Wiltshire,  re- 
markable for  the  extent  of  its  downs.  These  are 
barren  tracts,  rather  hilly,  and  too  sterile  to  produce 
any  thing  but  grass  for  sheep  and  geese.  The  upper 
stratum  is  chalk;  the  white  surface  of  which  is  co- 
vered only  by  the  green  turf  An  evidence  of  this  is 
exhibited,  rather  curiously,  to  the  passenger,  a  little 
to  the  west  of  Marlborough,  a  handsome  town  through 
which  we  passed  at  four  a.  m.  The  figure  of  a  horse 
of  gigantic  size,  was  marked  out  on  the  side  of  a  hill, 
facing  the  road,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant. 
The  grassy  surface  being  taken  off  within  these  out- 
lines,  so  as  to  expose  the  chalky  stratum,  there  remain- 
ed the  whole  figure,  perfectly  white,  and  in  such 
an  attitude,  as  to  appear   erect ;    and,  at   the  dis- 


156  JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL. 

tance  we  viewed  it,  quite  in  relief,  as  if  almost  de- 
tached from  the  hill.     I  saw  two  of  these  figures. 

The  day  opened  upon  us  almost  without  a  cloudy 
and  in  a  part  of  the  country  cultivated  to  the  highest 
perfection.  As  the  sun  first  rose  above  the  horizon, 
I  thought  the  freshness  and  beauty  of  the  landscape^ 
superior  to  any  thing  I  had  witnessed.  The  hills,  on 
each  side  of  the  road,  were  verdant  with  a  shower  in 
the  night.  Their  contour  had  a  regularity  and  sym- 
metry, which  art  had  impressed  upon  them.  The 
hedges  were  unusually  neat ;  and  beyond  them,  the 
^''  timid  hare,"  was  seen  leaping  over  the  field, 

"  And  frequent 
Turning,  stopp'd  to  gaze  at  early  passenger." 

It  was  a  scene  which  only  the  pen  of  a  Thomsoa 
could  justly  describe. 

The  horse  bean  is  cultivated  in  large  quantities  in 
this  part  of  England,  for  cattle  and  horses.  Potatoes 
are  seen  growing,  as  if  planted  at  random,  over  the 
field.  Their  blossoms,  in  the  morning,  give  to  the 
fields  a  richness  and  gayety  not  witnessed  on  our 
farms.  In  one  field,  we  observed  some  of  the  rye  in 
shock.  Between  Marlborough  and  Chippenham,  the 
road  passes  through  a  park,  called  Bow  Wood,  be- 
longing, as  I  was  told,  to  the  Marquis  of  Landsdown. 
The  deer  were  grazing  in  the  park;  a  turnpike  gate 
on  each  side,  securing  them  within  its  bounds.  The 
fields,  with  fine  crops  upon  them,  are  in  many  places^ 
entirely  exposed  to  the  road,  without  hedge  or  fence 
of  any  kind.  In  the  course  of  this  morning's  ride, 
we  passed  several  of  those  prodigious  conical  eleva- 
tions, called  barrows.  One  of  them,  I  should  judge 
to  be  200  feet  in  diameter,  with  an  elevation  of  150=. 


JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL.  157 

They  are  generally  supposed,  I  believe,  to  be  mounds 
erected  over  the  slain,  in  a  very  early  period  of  Eng- 
lish history :  iti  this  respect,  therefore,  they  corres- 
pond with  the  ancient  mounds,  which  still  exist,  in 
some  of  our  western  and  northern  states ;  and  re- 
specting which,  the  present  race  of  aborigines,  are 
quite  as  ignorant  as  the  newest  settlers.  One  of  these 
mounds,  near  Wheeling,  on  the  river  Ohio,  is  250 
yards  in  circumference,  with  a  perpendicular  height 
of  about  70  feet.  Trees  of  very  large  size,  are  grow- 
ing thickly  upon  it. 

We  arrived  at  Bath,  about  eight  a.  m.  After  break- 
fast, [  spent  several  hours  in  walking  through  the  town, 
having  no  letters,  and  intending  to  make  but  little  stay 
in  it.  This  city  contains  about  40,000  inhabitants.  Its 
appearance  must'strike  every  stranger,  both  as  more 
modern,  and  more  elegant,  than  English  towns  in  ge- 
neral ;  I  have  seen  none  to  equal  it.  The  material  of 
the  houses  is  a  free-stone,  q  tarried  in  the  vicinity,  and 
which,  when  first  used,  is  of  a  fine  cream-colour.  It  is 
that  kind  of  lime-stone,  called  by  mineralogists,  oolite 
or  roe-stone.  The  greater  part  of  the  city  is  of  modern 
structure ;  and  much  pains  have  been  taken  to  pro- 
duce an  architectural  effect.  The  town  is  surrounded 
by  an  amphitheatre  of  hills ;  the  buildings  in  some 
parts  extending  considerably  up  their  sides.  A 
fashionable  mode  of  building  here,  as  well  as  in  other 
parts  of  England,  is  to  erect  a  considerable  number 
of  houses  together,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  Several 
of  these  are  built  upon  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and 
make  a  noble  appearance.  Great-Pultney-street.. 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  appeared  to  me 
to  be  the  handsomest  1  had  ever  seen  any  where. 

1 3  * 


t58  JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL. 

Sydney  Garden  and  Hotel,  at  its  extremity,  is  a  fa^ 
shionable  resort.     They  were  making  preparations 
for  an  illumination  of  the  garden,  with  iire-works,  &c. 
this  being  the  day  of  the  public  races  at  Bath.     The 
garden  is  laid  out  with  much  taste.     The  trees  were 
hung  with  lamps,  in  a  variety  of  fantastical  figures. 
The  extent  and  improvement  of  this  city,  have  been 
chiefly  produced  by  the  celebrity  of  its  waters.  These 
are    thermal  springs,  arising  near  the  river   Avon, 
which  runs  around  the  south  and  eastern  sides  of  the 
town.     Extensive  baths  are  erected,  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  visiters.     The  company  that   resort  to  the 
springs,  as  well  as  the  citizens  of  the  town,  have  the 
liberty  of  assembling  in  the  great  pump-room;  a  spa- 
cious building  eighty-five  feet  long  and  forty-six  wide, 
Over  the  door  of  this  room,  upon  the  architrave,  is  a 
Greek  inscription,  from  the  opening  of  the  first  ode 
of  Pindar, — apiiton    men   TA^p — "  Water  !    of  ele- 
ments the  best !"     The  warm  water  of  the  spring  is 
here  constantly  ready,  for  all  that  choose  to  drink  it. 
The  public  season  at  Bath,  is  during  the  winter.    It 
«s  a  hot  place  in  summer,  and  is  very  much  deserted. 
The  streets,  at  this  time,  appeared  to  me,  after  esca- 
ping from  the  bustle  of  London,  to  be  silent  and  soli- 
tary.    The  cathedral  or  abbey  church,  in  Bath,  is  a 
famous  specimen  of  that  style  of  architecture,  (vene- 
rable for  its  age,  and  for  the  time  and  labour  expended 
on  it,)  which  distinguishes  the  ancient  churches  of  thif 
country.     It  was  founded  in  the  year  676,  by  king 
Osric ;  and  is  supposed  to  be  built  on  the  spot  where 
stood  the  Roman  temple  of  Minerva.     The  present 
pile  was  begun  in  the  year  1495.     Dissenters   are 
numerous  in  Bath ;    as  are   also  its   charitable  in- 


JOURNEY  TO  BRISTOL.  159 

stitutions.  A  literary  and  philosophical  society 
was  instituted  in  1815;  and  a  bank  for  savings  was 
established  in  the  same  year.  In  lieu  of  hackney 
coaches,  the  citizens  and  visiters  of  Bath  are  trans- 
ported from  place  to  place  in  sedan  chairs.  The 
chairmen  have  regular  stands,  and  their  prices  are 
fixed  by  law. 

In  the  afternoon  I  took  the  coach  for  Bristol.  The 
distance  between  these  towns  is  about  12  miles,  over 
one  of  the  best  roads  I  ever  travelled.  It  is  quite 
smooth  and  so  hard,  as  in  some  places  to  have  re- 
ceived a  real  polish  from  the  iron  of  the  wheels.  It  is 
formed  of  a  hard  lime  stone,  which  is  broken  into 
small  pieces  by  hammers,  and  ground  into  powder 
gradually  by  the  wheels.  The  superior  excellency 
of  the  English  roads  is  doubtless  owing  to  the  broad 
wheels  of  their  large  wagons.  These  are  generally 
hooped  with  double  tire,  and  are  from  8,  to  10  or  12 
inches  broad.  Being  heavily  loaded,  they  grind  the 
stones  finely,  and  at  the  same  time  prevent  the  for- 
mation of  those  routes  or  gutters,  which  so  much  dis- 
figure and  injure  some  of  our  United  States  turnpikes. 

The  approach  to  Bristol  is  announced  by  clouds 
of  smoke,  issuing  not  only  from  the  houses,  but  in 
heavy  volumes  from  the  tall  cones  of  numerous  glass 
factories.  We  crossed  a  wide  canal,  or  new  river, 
and  entered  the  town  by  a  narrow  and  uncomforta- 
ble street,  the  houses  being  old,  the  floors  lower  than 
the  surface  of  the  street,  and  the  second  story  pro- 
jecting over  the  first. 

The  coach  drove  to  the  Bush  a  large  inn,  and  said 
to  be  one  of  the  best  in  the  town ;  but  Bristol,  I  be- 
lieve, ifs  not  remarkable  for  good  inns. 


160  BRISTOL. 

At  the  house  of  *  ******  in  Queen  Square,  to 
whom  I  had  a  letter,  I  met  with  a  truly  hospitable  re- 
ception, and  found,  in  the  kindness  and  intelligence 
of  this  family,  and  of  other  friends,  a  happiness  which 
rendered  a  stay  of  five  days  in  Bristol  exceedingly 
interesting.  This  town  contains  many  edifices  and 
institutions,  well  worthy  the  attention  of  a  stranger. 
Several  of  the  churches  are  very  ancient,  and  exhi- 
bit some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. The  most  striking  of  these  is  Redcliff  church, 
the  foundation  of  which  was  laid  in  1274.  Having 
been  damaged  by  lightning,  it  was  completely  re- 
paired in  14.56;  prior,  of  course,  to  the  discovery  of 
America.  Its  dimensions  are  239  by  1 17  feet.  The 
interior  makes  a  forcible  impression,  by  its  loftiness, 
its  pointed  architecture,  and  its  various  ornaments. 
Over  the  altar  is  a  large  painting  by  Hogarth.  The 
subjects  are  the  ascension,  the  sealing  of  the  tomb, 
and  the  visit  to  the  sepulchre.  The  monuments  are 
numerous.  Among  those  which  most  attracted  my 
attention,  was  one  of  Admiral  Penn,  father  of  the 
founder  of  Pennsylvania.  It  is  surrounded  with  ban- 
ners and  trophies.  One  of  the  flags  which  he  had 
taken  from  his  opponents,  still  hangs  in  tatters  over 
the  monument.  I  have  observed  this  in  several  of 
the  churches,  particularly  in  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  in 
London.  What  a  strange  perversion  of  the  design 
of  a  place  of  worship !  as  if  a  Christian,  instead  of 
resorting  to  the  temple  of  devotion  to  learn  humility, 
stood  in  need  of  having  his  thirst  for  glory,  or  his 
passion  for  revenge  constantly  fed  by  external  ex- 
citements !  In  ascending  the  turret  of  this  edifice,  1 
was  shown  the  loft  and  the  boxes,  in  which  Chatter- 


BRISTOL.  161 

ton  is  said  to  have  discovered  the  manuscripts  which 
he  published  under  the  name  of  Rowley.  Poor 
Chatterton  was  the  posthumous  son  of  the  Rector  of 
this  church.  His  genius  and  his  fate  are  too  well 
known,  to  need  a  description  in  this  place. 

The  College  Church  or  Cathedral,  is  a  large  struc- 
ture, originally  the  church  of  a  monastery  of  St, 
Augustine,  founded  by  Robert  Fitzharding,  a  descen- 
dant of  the  kings  of  Denmark.  Nothirjg  remains  of 
the  ancient  monastery  but  a  gate  way,  which,  as  a 
specimen  of  Saxon  architecture,  cannot  be  viewed 
without  emotions  of  pleasure.  It  is  a  finely  carved 
arch,  and  richly  ornamented  with  sculpture.  Bishop 
VVarburton  was  once  a  dean  of  this  church  and  resi- 
ded near  the  arch.  This  church  is  kept  in  very  neat 
order.  The  monumental  stones  are  numerous,  the 
sculpture  of  many  of  them,  very  fine,  and  the  inscrip- 
tions, in  general,  appeared  to  me  more  tasteful  and 
elegant  than  ordinary.  The  celebrated  epitaph  of 
Mason  on  his  wile, 

"  Take  holy  earth,*'  &c. 

soon  claims  the  notice  of  a  stranger,  and  how  fre- 
quently soever  he  may  have  read,  and  repeated  it,  he 
will  scarcely  fail  again  to  peruse  it,  with  renewed  inte° 
rest,  on  its  original  marble.  The  admirers  of  Cowper 
will  also  notice,  with  peculiar  feelings,  an  inscription 
to  lady  Hesketh,  who  died  in  1807.  An  elegant  mu- 
ral monument,  erected  by  a  husband  to  the  memory 
of  his  wife,  aged  nineteen,  I  thought  worthy  of  par-* 
ticular  regard. 


162  BRISTOL. 

"  Formed  by  nature 

To  attract  obervatiou,  and  invite  respect, 

Lovely  in  her  poi-son,  p^raccful  ui  her  mannem, 

Amiable  in  her  disposition, 

Happy  to  receive  pleasure,  and  more  happy  to  impart  it , 

Every  one  was  conscious  of  her  merits 

But  herself. 

The  disease  to  which  she  fell  a  victim 

Added  lustre  to  the  virtues  of  her  mind; 

And  the  submissive  piety  which  prepared  her  way 

To  heaven, 

Taught  the  duty  of  resignation 

To  her  afflicted  husband." 

The  infirmary  of  this  town  is  a  very  large  building, 
erected  and  supported  as  a  hospital  by  public  con- 
tribution. We  were  shown  through  the  wards  by  the 
matron,  a  very  respectable  woman,  who  conducts  the 
numerous  domestic  concerns  of  this  charitable  insti- 
tution, without  the  aid  of  any  other  person  than  the 
governors,  physicians,  and  servants. 

The  charities  of  Bristol  are  very  numerous.  There 
is  probably  no  place  in  Great  Britain,  where  greater 
efforts  have  heen  made  to  relieve  every  kind  of 
distress  by  gratuitious  assistance  than  in  this  city. 
An  impulse  was  given  to  feelings  of  this  kind,  by  the 
extraordinary  benevolence  of  the  late  Richard  Rey- 
nolds, whose  character  seems  to  be  venerated  by  all. 
But  that  poverty  is  not  subdued  by  these  efforts,  is 
obvious  to  every  one  who  walks  the  streets.  Men- 
dicants are  more  numerous,  and  their  appearance  isj 
in  general,  more  squalid  here  than  in  l..ondon.  The 
opinion  of  several  intelligent  individuals,  with  whom 
I  conversed  on  this  subject,  was,  that  the  evil  is  rather 
increased  by  these  extraordinary  exertions,  than  per- 
manently diminished  by  them.     A  vast  amount  of  im- 


BRISTOL.  163 

mediate  suffering  is  doubtless  thus  prevented  :buthow 
desirable  is  it  that  the  institutior.'S  of  society  should 
be  so  wisely  established  upon  the  basis  of  an  enlight- 
ened humanity,  as  to  prevent  the  accumulation  of  so 
much  poverty.  The  Lancasterian  school  here  does 
much  credit  to  its  patrons  and  supporters.  It  occu- 
pies a  new  and  very  commodious  building.  The 
female  apartment  is  above  that  of  the  boys,  and  is 
conducted  by  a  mistress. 

I  spent   one  night  at   the  summer  residence  of  a 
friend,  about  four  miles  from  the  town,  and  for  the 
first  time  in  my  life,  slept   under  a  roof  of  straw. 
But  let  it  not  be  imagined,  that  on  that  account,  1 
was  badly  accommodated,  or  that  the  cottage  of  my 
kind  host  was  a  mean  habitation.     It  was  in  reality 
one  of  the  neatest  places  I  have  seen  in  England ; 
and  England,  is  certainly  superior  to  most  countries 
in  its  style  of  rural   architecture  and  improvement. 
All  that  a  summer  residence  could  demand  of  com- 
fort and  convenience,  was  to   be  found  in  this  cot- 
tage.    A  hall  of  entrance,  a  large  and  well  lighted 
parlour    neatly   furnished,   a   breakfast    room,   and 
kitchen,    occupied  the  lower  floor,  and   convenient 
bed-rooms  the  second.     The  grounds  are  laid  out 
with  taste,  and  planted  with  a  variety  of  shrubbery. 
Indeed  one  scarcely  visits  a  country  house  of  decent 
pretension,   without  finding  gravelled  walks,  winding 
through  plantations  of  shrubbery,  in  which  variety 
seems  to    be   the  predominant   feature.     The   high 
stone  wall  (sometimes  ten  or  twelve  feet,)  which  sur- 
round the  gardens  in  the  southern  part  of  England, 
would  lead  to  the  conclusion  that  every  neighbour- 
hood contained  a  den  of  thieves.     But  on  inquiry  I 


164  BRISTOL. 

found,  that  though  safety  is  one  motive  in  erecting 
these  expensive  walls,  the  principal  inducement  is 
the  cultivation  of  fruit.  Neither  the  peach,  the  plum, 
the  nectarine,  the  cherry,  nor  the  apricot,  succeed 
well  in  the  open  ground,  but  require  to  be  trained 
upon  a  wall  which  acts  as  a  defence  against  the 
wind  and  increases  the  temperature  necessary  to  the 
perfection  of  the  fruit. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Bristol  contains  many  bold 
eminences  and  picturesque  views.  From  a  hill  near 
the  cottage  where  I  slept,  a  charming  view  is  ob- 
tained of  the  Severn,  and  a  great  extent  of  adjacent 
country,  including  the  house  and  extensive  grounds 
of  Lord  De  ClIfTord.  The  mountains  of  Wales  skirt- 
ed the  horizon  in  the  west.     In  view  toward  the  S.  E. 

was  the  house  of  Miles,  a  Bristol  merchant, 

whose  country  establishment  was  estimated  by  my 
guide  at  the  cost  of  £250,000  sterling,  being  part  of 
the  fruits  of  successful  trade. 

The  Hot  Wells  of  Bristol  have  been  much  cele- 
brated as  a  place  of  resort  for  invalids.  The  spring, 
which  supplies  the  water,  issues  from  the  foot  of  a 
rocky  hill,  on  the  margin  of  the  Avon.  The  river  in 
this  place,  though  not  a  large  stream,  seems  to  have 
broken  through  a  high  hill,  and  to  have  laid  bare  its 
interior,  consisting  of  a  siliceous  ironstone.  The  rock 
is  almost  perpendicular,  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and 
rises  to  the  height,  I  should  think,  of  200  feet  above 
its  level.  It  contains  quartz  crystals  of  considerable 
beauty,  sulphate  of  barytes,  sulphate  of  strontian,  and 
other  minerals.  The  region  around  Bristol  is,  on  the 
whole,  remarkable  for  the  variety  of  its  mineral  pro- 
ductions.    A  small  quantity  of  coal  is  found  near  the 


BRISTOL.  165 

Hot  Wells.  From  the  downs,  over  which  we  rode  on 
our  return,  a  very  fine  view  is  had  of  the  meanderings 
of  the  Avon,  and  the  adjoining  country,  to  agreatdis- 
tance.  The  Hot  Wells  are  scarcely  entitled  to  the  name 
they  bear.  The  temperature  of  the  water  is  but  about 
74°;  and  if  they  possess  any  medicinal  virtue,  it  must  be 
ascribed  to  the  absence,  rather  than  to  the  presence, 
of  foreign  ingredients,  for  its  analysis  proves  it  to  be 
an  unusually  pure  spring  water.  According  to  Dr- 
Carrick,  it  contains  but  forty-seven  grains  and  three 
quarters  of  saline  matter  in  the  gallon,  consisting  of  the 
salts  of  magnesia,  soda,  and  lime.  It  is  shghtly  aerated 
with  carbonic  acid.  The  waters  of  Bath  contain  dou« 
ble,  and  those  of  Cheltenham  about  eleven  times,  the 
quantity  of  solid  matter  that  is  found  in  the  Bristol 
waters.  These  springs,  though  still  resorted  to,  are 
in  less  repute  than  formerly. 

Dr.  B***  obligingly  conducted  me  to  his  lodg- 
ings, the  house  in  which  the  venerable  Richard  Rey- 
nolds lived  and  died.  It  is  a  plain,  but  comfortable 
mansion,  with  a  pleasant  garden,  in  a  retired,  but  not 
a  fashionable  part  of  the  town.  This  worthy  man,  il 
S3  said,  often  acknowledged  that  he  was  not  naturally 
benevolent.  His  exalted  goodness  resulted,  of  course^ 
from  considerations  of  religious  duty,  combined  witl 
the  dictates  of  a  sound  understanding.  He  was  verj 
discreet  in  his  charities.  He  frequenlty  refused  'tc 
give  when  called  upon,  greatly  to  the  disappointment 
and  chagrin  of  the  applicant ;  and,  after  taking  time 
to  reflect,  gave  more  than  he  was  asked  for,  and  in  t. 
way  better  suited  to  his  views.  He  mostly  satisfied 
himself,  by  inquiry,  before  he  gave.  The  life  and  de- 
portment of  this  excellent  man,  demonstrate,  in  a  verr 

Vol,  I.    ^  14 


16G  BRISTOL. 

striking  manner,  the  power  of  Christian  principles 
upon  the  human  miiid.  That  an  individual  in  the 
common  walks  of  life,  possessed  of  wealth  acquired 
by  successful  industry,  and  naturally  attached  to  that 
wealth, — that  a  mind  by  no  means  peculiarly  favour- 
ed by  nature^  with  the  attractive  virtues,  should,  by 
the  bare  consideration  of  Christian  duty,  and  the  ha- 
bitual influence  of  Christian  motives,  become  so  rai- 
sed above  others  by  the  extent  of  his  benevolence, 
and  an  object  of  such  universal  affection,  as  was  Ri- 
chard Reynolds,  is  almost  a  phenomenon,  even  in  the 
history  of  private  worth.  So  common  is  the  opinion, 
that  a  measure  of  that  love  of  worldly  distinction 
which  is  radically  ingrafted  in  the  human  mind,  must 
operate  as  a  stimulus  to  extraordinary  exertions  of 
every  kind,  that  it  will  perhaps,  with  difficulty  be  be- 
lieved, that  a  private  individual,  the  loss  of  whose 
humane  exertions  was  so  severely  felt,  that  it  was 
deemed  expedient  to  form  a  society  expressly  to  sup- 
ply that  loss,  could  have  been  unmindful  of  the  mo- 
tives of  future  fame.  But  the  life  and  character  of 
Reynolds  were  sufficient,  I  believe,  to  satisfy  all  who 
knew  him,  that  his  views  were  inseparably  connected 
with  that  love  of  his  fellow  creatures,  which  had  its 
foundation  in  the  love  of  his  Creator, — and  with  those 
exalted  motives  which  arise  from  a  prospect  of  the 
•'  life  to  come.'* 

I  took  tea  with  J.  Reynolds,  a  son  of  the  philan- 
thropist, who  has  recently  settled  in  Bristol.  He  has 
a  numerous  and  very  genteel  family.  ^ 

At  the  house  of  Dr.  P***,  a  countryman  of  ours,  1 
found  much  to  interest  me.  He  has  obtained  some 
oelebrity  by  his  medical  publications,  and  also  by  a 


BRISTOL.  167 

valuable  account  of  the  rise,  progress  and  importance 
of  the  instruction  of  adults  by  Sunday  and  other  cha- 
rity schools;  as  well  as  by  other  tracts  upon  useful 
subjects.  He  is  a  person  of  much  private  worth. 
His  rooms  contain  a  pretty  collection  of  minerals  and 
other  subjects  of  natural  history,  drawing,  &c.  He 
possesses,  himself,  a  fine  taste  for  drawing,  especially 
in  taking  the  profiles  of  his  friends,  which  he  executes 
with  uncommon  neatness. 

This  city  contains  a  polished  and  truly  respectable 
society,  in  which  are  several  persons  of  considerable 
eminence  in  science  and  learning.  Dr  p********, 
respecting  whose  talents  and  research  I  had  formed 
a  favourable  opinion  from  the  perusal  of  his  work  on 
the  "  Physical  History  of  Man,"  did  not  by  any  means 
lessen  in  my  estimation  from  personal  acquaintance. 
His  mind  is  at  once  excursive  and  discriminating,  and 
if  his  genius  and  industry  shall  be  aided  by  time  and 
health,  he  bids  fair  to  become,  not  only  an  ornament 
to  the  medical  profession,  but  to  the  literary  ranks  of 
his  country. 

Bristol  has  been  distinguished  as  the  second  com- 
mercial city  in  the  kingdom  :  but  this  glory  appears 
to  have  past  its  zenith  ;  and  unless  its  manufacturing 
industry  shall  compensate  for  its  declining  commerce, 
it  must  gradually  experience  the  fate  of  other  cities, 
which  in  the  fluctuations  of  time  and  fortune,  have 
3unk  by  degrees  from  their  meridian  elevation, 
.jr.  The  city  stands  upon  the  Avon,  a  few  miles  above 
Its  junction  with  the  Severn.  The  Avon  scarcely  de- 
serves the  name  of  a  river,  as  in  some  places,  below 
the  city,  it  is  hardly  wide  enough  for  two  ships  to 
pass  each  other;  and  at  low  water,  the  bottom  is  left 


168  BRISTOL. 

nearly  dry.  Yet  as  the  tide  rises  to  the  astonishing 
height  of  more  than  thirty  feet,  it  affords  an  easy  pas- 
sage, at  high  water,  for  ships  of  l.>0()  tons;  and  the 
extraordinary  enterprize  and  industry  of  the  mer- 
chants, and  other  citizens,  have,  by  turning  the  river 
into  a  new  bed,  cut  expressly  for  it,  and  forming  a 
large  basin  at  the  town,  in  which  ships  float  with 
freedom,  nearly  surmounted  the  difficulties  of  this 
mud  creek  navigation.  It  is  not  very  long  since,  as  I 
was  informed,  that  a  ship,  with  a  valuable  cargo,  wa& 
cast  away  in  this  little  river,  by  the  tide's  leaving  her 
to  rest  on  the  mud,  when  the  strength  of  her  timbers, 
unable  to  sustain  the  internal  pressure,  gave  way  to 
her  utter  ruin.  The  iuiprovements  in  the  navigation, 
just  mentioned,  cost  the  city  nearly  £600,000  ! 

The  parts  of  the  town  near  the  water,  are  low, 
dirty,  and  uncomfortable ;  but  the  ground  being  very 
uneven,  some  of  the  elevated  portions  are  truly  fine. 
The  village  of  Clifton,  in  the  neatness  of  its  buildings, 
and  the  beauty  of  its  prospects,  is  not  surpassed  by 
any  place  I  have  yet  seen  in  England.  It  is  the  court- 
end  of  Bristol.  Queen  Square  is  a  large  and  fine 
opening,  surrounded  by  respectable  buildings,  and 
rows  of  majestic  trees.  In  the  cetitre  is  an  elegant 
equestrian  statue  of  William  III.,  erected  in  1736,  at 
an  expense  of  £1800. 


BRISTOL.  169 

LETTER   VIIL 

Bumcoose,  in  Cornwall,  1th  month,  (J'^^y)  1^>  1818. 

My  DEAR  *****  AND  ****, 

The  evening  prior  to  my  leaving  Bristol,  my  kind 
host,  and  two  of  his  daughters,  proposed  to  accom- 
pany me  to  Barley  Wood,  the  residence  of  the  justly 
celebrated  Hannah  More.  This  residence  is  in  So- 
mersetshire, twelve  miles  from  Bristol,  on  the  road  to 
Bridgewater.  I  could  not  but  feel  gratified  with  such 
a  proposition,  as  there  are  few  names  in  the  numer- 
ous list  of  living  authors,  whose  writings  are  held  in 
higher  estimation  by  the  thinking  and  serious  part  of 
the  reading  community,  both  in  England  and  America, 
than  that  of  Hannah  More. 

13th.  The  neighbourhood  of  Bristol  is  extremely 
populous.  In  some  of  the  adjacent  villages,  as  I  was 
informed,  the  pressure  of  numbers  is  so  great  upon 
the  means  of  support,  as  to  produce  a  state  of  society, 
highly  unfavourable  to  good  morals,  and  dangerous 
even  to  public  safety.  The  country  around  the  town 
is  finely  cultivated ;  and  from  the  heights  over  which 
we  passed,  on  the  side  of  Bedminster,  or  that  part  of 
Bristol  which  is  west  of  the  Avon,  a  charming  view  is 
obtained  of  the  city,  and  circumjacent  country.  The 
ancient  churches,  with  their  numerous  turrets ;  the 
vast  size  of  some  of  the  manufactories;  the  numerous 
and  tall  chimnies  of  the  glass-houses ;  the  cheering 
verdure  of  the  gardens;  and  the  trim  aspect  of  every 
rural  spot  within  reach  of  the  eye,  give  to  this  view, 
a  character  very  different  from  any  thing  which  thf 

14* 


170  BARLEY  WOOD. 

traveller  in  America  will  be  able  to  find  in  the  scenes 
vy  of  our  new  world  for  ages  to  come. 

Bristol  is  situated  on  the  line  between  Gloucester 
and  Somerset.  It  was  erected  into  a  distinct  county 
by  Edward  III.,  as  a  reward  to  the  loyalty  of  its  in- 
habitants. At  present,  the  votes  are  almost  equally 
divided  between  the  supporters  and  the  opposers  of 
ministerial  measures.  The  period  of  an  election,  is, 
of  course,  a  time  of  bustle,  and  too  often  of  turbu- 
lence and  riot. 

We  arrived  at  Barley  Wood,  about  noon,  and  were 
kindly  and  politely  received  by  Martha  More,  the  only 
sister,  and  domestic  companion,  of  the  author.  Their 
situation  is  delightful.  The  cottage,  as  it  is  called, 
though  covered  with  thatch,  is  exceedingly  neat,  and 
tasteful ;  and,  both  within  and  without,  wears  all  the 
appearance  of  simple  elegance.  It  occupies  a  situ- 
ation, on  the  gentle  declivity  of  an  eminence,  and  com- 
mands a  view  of  the  village  of  Wrington,  a  short  dis- 
tance below,  and  a  richly  variegated  country,  within 
an  extensive  horizon.  The  selection  of  this  spot,  the 
plan  of  the  cottage,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  grounds, 
are  due  to  the  ingenuity  and  talent  of  the  two  sisters, 
and  reflect  the  highest  credit  upon  their  taste  and 
judgment.  In  the  short  conversation  we  had  with 
Martha  More,  before  her  sister  joined  us,  the  former 
spoke  much  of  the  latter,  and  appeared  as  much  in- 
terested in  the  reputation  of  her  works,  and  as  highly 
to  enjoy  their  celebrity,  as  the  author  herself  could  do. 
The  latter  soon  came  in,  and  took  us  by  the  hand,  with 
great  ease  and  urbanity.  She  congratulated  my  friend 
W.  as  an  old  acquaintance,  whom  she  had  not  seen  for 
'1  considerable  time.     A  table  was  placed  in  the  mid- 


BARLEY  WOOD.  171 

die  of  the  room,  around  which  we  all  seated  ourselves, 
and,  as  1  was  introduced  to  them  as  an  American,  the 
conversation  turned  upon  that  quarter  of  the  globe. 
The  charitable  and  religious  institutions  of  our  coun- 
try were  inquired  after  by  Hannah,  with  the  zeal  of 
one  who  feels  a  lively  concern  for  the  good  of  mankind, 
in  every  part  of  the  world.  She  showed  us  a  letter 
she  had  received  from  a  deaf  and  dumb  child  of  Dn 
C.  of  Hartford,  Connecticut,  accompanied  by  an  ex- 
planatory letter  from  the  worthy  Principal  of  the  in- 
stitution, in  that  town,  for  the  instruction  of  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb.  The  letters  had  given  her  much  pleasure. 
The  cause  of  Bible  Societies  she  has  much  at  heartj 
and  is  decidedly  opposed,  though  a  firm  Churchwo- 
man,  to  the  restrictive  principles  advocated  by  some 
of  the  mitred  heads  of  the  establishment.  She  had  just 
given  a  notable  demonstration  of  her  zeal  in  this  cause. 
The  anniversary  of  the  Auxiliary  Society  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood, was  held  last  week,  and  she  and  her  sister 
gave  a  dinner  and  a  tea-entertainment  to  the  whole 
company.  There  were  no  less  than  103  persons  who 
partook  of  the  dinner,  and  300  that  drank  tea.  As 
many  as  the  cottage  would  hold,  were  accommodated 
in  it ;  and  the  rest  were  served  upon  the  lawn,  around 
it.  Among  them  were  thirty-seven  clergymen,  and 
the  bishop  of  Gloucester.  Notwithstanding  she  is 
at  the  age  of  seventy-five,  and  has  endured  many 
attacks  of  disease,  she  went,  yesterday,  twenty-two 
miles,  to  attend  a  Sunday  School.  Her  constitu- 
tion, (or,  as  she  termed  it,  her  muscular  powers,)  she 
said,  was  very  strong,  for  it  had  carried  her,  with 
the  blessing  of  Providence,  through  the  assaults  of 
twenty  mortal  diseases.     She  acknowledged,  that  she 


172  BARLEY  WOOD. 

Iiad  been  much  opposed  to  Araerica,during  the  revolu- 
tionarj  struggle,  but  admitted  that  we  had  many  wor- 
thy characters  amongst  us.  The  native  strength  of  her 
mind  has  enabled  her  to  surmount  most  of  the  preju- 
dices arising  from  political  opposition  ;  but  it  was  still 
apparent,  from  the  conversation  of  these  worthy  ladies, 
that  the  want  of  that  more  exact  information,  which 
can  only  be  obtained  by  proximity  and  intimacy,  tends 
to  keep  alive  the  prejudices,  which  sprang  from  the 
contest  for  independence,  and  which,  not  only  the  true 
interests  of  both  nations,  but  every  principle  of  virtue 
should  induce  us  to  suppress.  These  two  ladies  are 
the  survivors  of  a  family  of  five  sisters,  who  formerly 
lived  in  Bristol,  and  subsequently  at  Bath.  Some  of 
them  were  the  managers  of  a  distinguished  female 
school,  by  which  they  increased  their  means  of  sup- 
port. They  all  possessed  talents  above  mediocrity ; 
but  Hannah  is  alone  celebrated  for  her  literary  pro- 
ductions. She  was  warmly  beloved  by  them  all; 
proving,  that  her  talents  have  been  ever  associated 
with  amiable  qualities,  and  with  true  goodness  of 
heart.  Her  Search  after  Happiness,  and  Sacred  Dra- 
mas, she  told  me,  were  the  juvenile  productions  of  se- 
venteen ;  and  written  with  the  intention  to  counteract 
the  growing  custom  of  introducing  into  female  board- 
ing-schools, plays  of  an  improper  tendency,  and  allow- 
ing them  to  be  acted  by  the  pupils.  Her  views,  she 
thought,  had  been  successful.  She,  and  her  surviving 
sister,  retired  some  years  ago  to  this  spot,  which  they 
found,  in  a  state,  wild,  and  uncultivated.  They  select- 
ed it,  ibr  the  beauty  and  healthiness  of  its  situation; 
and  had  they  surveyed  all  the  south  of  England,  it  is 
questionable  whether  they  could  have  found  a  situa- 


BARLEY  WOOD.  173 

tion  more  truly  delightful.  The  village  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  contains  an  old  Gothic  church,  and  provides 
them  with  all  the  facilities  of  mere  neighbourhood,  at 
a  convenient  distance.  The  house  is  large  enough 
for  all  the  purposes  of  domestic  comfort  and  hospital- 
ity. The  walls  of  the  sitting  room,  below,  are  orna- 
mented with  the  portraits  of  their  most  distinguished 
friends.  On  our  attention  being  turned  to  tliem,  the 
characters  of  the  individuals,  and  particularly  their 
most  valuable  qualities,  were  adverted  to  by  Hannah 
More,  with  a  warmth  and  energy,  which  proved  that 
age  had  not  diminished  the  force  of  her  cnrly  recol- 
lections, nor  the  ardour  of  her  friendship.  Among 
these  favourites,  I  noticed  particularly,  the  likenesses 
ofWm.  Wilberforce.  Klizabeth  Carter,  Richard  Rey- 
nolds,  and  Henderson,  the  celebrated  youthfu! 

genius  of  Bristol.  In  one  corner  of  the  room,  was  a 
picture,  which  had  been  sent  her  from  Geneva.  Ft 
was  a  descriptive  scene  from  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting passages  of  Cnelebs,- — Lucilla  in  the  attitude 
of  prayer  at  the  bed-side  of  her  poor  sick  neigh- 
bour. Her  bed-chamber,  into  which  we  were  intro- 
duced for  the  sake  of  a  more  complete  prospect  of 
the  country,  contained  her  library ;  which  I  should 
estimate  at  least  at  a  thousand  volumes.  It  consists 
of  the  most  select  and  valuable  works  upon  theology 
and  general  literature.  She  showed  us  a  letter,  from 
a  Russian  princess,  written  with  her  own  hand,  in  bro- 
ken English,  solely  to  acknowledge  the  satisfaction 
and  benefit  which  the  works  of  Hannah  More  had 
afforded  her.  We  were  gratified  too,  with  seeing  a 
translation  of  Coelebs  in  the  German  language,  and 
a  splendidly  bound  copy  of  it  in  French,  sent  to  hes 


174  BARLEY  WOOD. 

as  presents  from  the  continent.     Industry  is  doubtless 
one  of  the  habitual  virtues  of  these  worlhy   sisters. 
Besides   the    numerous    hterary    productions  of  the 
elder,  and  the  extensive  charitable  otlices  in  which 
they  are  engaged,  every  thing  witliin  and  about  the 
cottage, — the  furniture,  the  needle-work,  the  flowers, 
bears  the  impression  of  taste  arid  activity. 
;%  We  pursued  the  windings  of  a  gravelled  walk  among 
the   shrubbery,   and  reposed  ourselves  on   seats  in 
rustic  arbours,  from  which  glimpses  are  obtained  of 
the  expanded  valley  below.     In  an  open  spot,  at  one 
of  the  turns  of  the  walk,  was  a  neat,  but  plain  monu- 
ment, to  the  memory   of  Bishop    Porteus,  who  had 
been  their  particular  friend  ;  and  in  another  place, 
a  more  costly  stone  was  erected   to  the  memory  of 
John  Locke.    This  was  a  present  to  these  sisters  from 
Lady  Montague;  and  a  very  appropriate  place  it  iB 
for  its  erection ;  for,  in  an  old  thatched  house  adjoin- 
ing the  church  yard  in  the  village  of  Wrington,  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  did   that  great   man  draw    his   first 
breath.    His  mother,  while  travelling,  was  constrained 
to  take  up  her   residence   in    this  house,   until  her 
new-born  child  was  old  enough  for  her  to  pursue  the 
journey. 

We  all  left  Barley  Wood,  with  feelings  of  much  sa- 
tisfaction from  the  visit.  Mine  was  not  diminished,  by 
carrying  with  me  a  present  of  a  copy  of  "Christian 
Morals,"  from  the  hands  of  the  author,  given  as  a  me- 
morandum of  the  visit,  and  in  which  she  wrote  my 
name,  in  an  excellent  hand,  without  spectacles.  It  is 
rare,  indeed,  to  find  so  much  vivacity  of  mannersr  at 
so  advanced  a  period  of  life,  as  these  ladies  possess. 
They  are  fond  of  a  country  life.     Hannah  remarked 


JOURNEY    TO    CORNWALL.  175 

to  US,  that  the  only  natural  pleasures  which  remained 
to  her  in  their  full  force,  were  the  love  of  the  country, 
and  of  flowers.* 

My  kind  attendants  conducted  me  a  few  miles  fur- 
ther, to  Langford  Inn,  where  we  took  dinner,  and 
where  they  waited,  till  the  arrival  of  tlie  coach  which 
was  to  take  me  to  Bridgewater.  I  parted  from  them 
under  those  impressions,  which  the  reception  of  ge- 
nuine hospitality,  and  the  feelings  of  sincere  and 
grateful  friendship,  are  likely  to  perpetuate. 

The  country  between  Wrington  and  Bridgewater, 
is,  in  general,  very  level,  except  a  ridge  of  high 
ground,  called  the  Mendip  hills.  These  are  so  high 
as  to  have  been  styled  the  Alps  of  Somersetshire. 
The  country  below  being  almost  a  perfect  plain,  the 
prospect  from  some  points  of  these  hills,  is  very  ex- 
tensive and  beautiful.  The  hills  abound  with  veins 
of  lead  and  calamine.  The  latter  mineral,  obtained 
from  this  region,  supplies  nearly  all  the  metallic  zinc 
used  in  England,  as  well  as  in  America.  The  lan- 
guage of  the  common  or  labouring  classes,  of  this  and 
the  adjoining  county,  is  a  sort  of  lingo,  which  those 
unaccustomed  to  it  cannot  readily  comprehend.  A 
number  of  the  men  employed  in  working  the  lapis 
calaminaris,  were  assembled  in  the  tap-room  of  the 
inn  at  Langford.  While  engaged  in  conversation,  1 
listened  to  them  attentively,  but  could  understand 
nothing  at  all  of  the  subject  of  their  discourse. 
Scarcely  a  word  was  intelligible.  It  is  doubtless 
meant  to  be  English,  but  is  so  disfigured  by  provin- 
ciality of  accent  and  construction,  as  to  require  trans- 

'  Her  sister  has  since  paid  the  debt  of  nature. 


176  JOURNEY    TO    CORNWALL. 

lation,  to  an  American  ear,  as  necessarily  as  the  Irish 
or  Welsh. 

14th.  At  Bridgewater  I  was  kindly  entertained  by 
*.  ****,  a  frirnd,  witli  whom  I  had  made  some  acquain- 
tance in  London.  This  town  contains  about  5,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  river  Parrett,  which 
empties  into  the  Bristol  channel ;  and,  in  common 
with  the  other  streams  connected  with  that  estuary,  it 
has  a  tide  of  remarkable  height.  It  comes  in,  at  low 
w^ater,  with  what  is  called  a  Bore ;  that  is,  a  sudden 
sweep  from  the  channel,  which  at  once  raises  the  wa- 
ter of  the  river  about  six  feet,  at  least  at  spring  tides. 
A  few  such  waves  bring  it  to  its  highest  elevation. 

Bridgewater  is  of  great  antiquity.  It  was  of  con- 
siderable consequence  before  the  Norman  conquest. 
King  John  made  it  a  borough  by  charter,  in  the  year 
1200.  It  has  a  spacious  church,  with  the  most  lofty 
spire  in  this  part  of  England. 

My  friend  ****,  having  occasion  this  morning  to  go 
as  far  as  Taunton,  to  attend  a  meeting,  twelve  miles 
on  my  way,  invited  me  to  a  seat  in  his  phaeton.  We 
had  a  pleasant  ride  through  a  flat,  but  well  cultivated 
district.  The  cottages,  by  the  road  side,  however,  in 
this  county,  have  not  the  appearance  of  much  com- 
fort; and,  in  many  cases,  quite  the  reverse.  They 
are  built  of  clay  or  mud;  or,  as  it  is  called  here,  cob. 
It  is  nothing  but  plastic  earth  and  gravel,  mixed  with 
cut  straw.  The  thickness  of  the  walls  is  about  a  foot. 
Very  few  windows  are  to  be  seen  in  them,  and  the 
roof  is  uniformly  of  thatch.  They  have  a  heavy  and 
gloomy  aspect ;  surpassing,  I  think,  in  their  indica- 
tions of  poverty,  the  poorest  log-houses  on  our  frontier 
settlements. 


JOURNEY  TO  CORNWALL.  177 

Taunton  is  about  a  mile  long,  and  contains  flOOO 
mhabitants.  It  is  a  very  respectable  and  ancient  bo- 
rough, having  returned  members  to  Parliament  since 
1294.  Every  inhabitant  of  the  town  who  boils  his  own 
pot,  has  a  right  to  vote.  The  voters  accordingly  re- 
ceive the  curious  appellation  of  potwallopers.  At 
the  time  of  a  contested  election  it  is  no  uncommon 
thing  for  the  poorer  inhabitants  to  have  pots  given  to 
them,  which  they  take  out  into  the  street,  where  they 
boil  them  in  public,  as  an  evidence  of  their  title  to  a 
vote.  The  contents  of  the  pots  are,  no  doubt,  de- 
rived from  the  pockets  of  the  candidates. 

After  attending  the  monthly  meeting,  and  spending 
an  hour  very  agreeably  with  a  number  of  friends,  I  took 
the  coach  to  Exeter,  through  Honiton.  The  county  of 
Devon,  which  we  soon  entered,  is  one  of  the  largest 
in  England,  and  perhaps  the  most  productive,  except- 
ing only  Yorkshire.  Honiton,  where  we  changed 
horses  and  coaches,  is  a  place  of  considerable  size 
and  antiquity,  though  inferior  in  extent  to  Taunton. 
It  consists  chiefly  of  one  long,  but  wide  and  pleasant 
street.  The  houses  are  much  more  modern  than  in 
most  of  the  country  towns ;  having  been  built  since 
a  fire  in  1765,  which  destroyed  the  greater  part  of 
the  town.  Its  principal  manufacture  is  lace.  We 
arrived  at  Exeter  before  dark,  and  stopped  at  the 
old  London  Inn,  a  large  house  and  full  of  company, 
as  were  other  public  places,  on  account  of  the  court 
which  was  then  sitting. 

15th.  An  intelligent  young  man,  *.  ******,  to 
whom  I  was  introduced,  offered  to  devote  the  day  to 
me,  in  seeing  the  town  and  neighbourhood.  We  went 
after  breakfast  to  the  Cathedral,  certainly  one  of  the 

Vol.  I.  15 


178  EXETER. 

most  celebrated  and  antique  looking  structures  in  the 
kingdom.     It  was  begun  by  Leofric,  the  first  Bishop 
of  Exeter,  in  the  11th  century,    burnt  in  1138,  and 
finally  repaired  in  1194.     Since  that  time,  but  still  at 
a  remote  period,  it  has  received  various  additions  so 
as  to  complete  eventually  the  grand   design  of  the 
first  projectors.     The  length  of  the  whole   church  \b 
390  feet  and  the   breadth  75.     It  differs  exteriorly 
from  most  of  the  ancient  structures   I  have  seen,  in 
the  great  number  of  statues  placed  in  niches  on  the 
outside  of  the  walls.      Many  of  them  are  sitting,  as 
in  a  chair,  with  one  knee    over  the    other.      These 
statues  are  mostly  intended  as  the  representatives  of 
royal  personages,  dignitaries  of  the  church,  angels, 
&c.      Within  is  a  library  57  feet  by  24,  containing  a 
great  collection  of  books.     The  organ  is  supposed  to 
be  one   of  the  largest  in  England,  one  of  the  pipes 
being  15  inches  in  diameter.     In  one  of  the  wings,  or 
towers,    is  a  curious  astronomical  clock,  given  by 
Bishop  Courtnayin  1428.     It  is  still  going  and  keeps 
good  time,  though  erected  64  years  prior  tojthe  disco- 
very of  America.      It  is  conformable  to  the  astrono- 
my then  in  vogue,  the  earth  being  in  the  centre,  and 
the  sun  revolving  round  it  in  a  circle  of  about  3  feet  in 
diameter.     The  changes  of  the  moon  are  also  repre- 
sented by  particular  movements.     The  great  bell  of 
the  cathedral,  called  the  Peter  bell,  was  given  by  the 
same  prelate.      It  was  brought  from  Landafif^  and  is 
said  to  weigh  12,500  lbs.     It  is  about  7  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  the  same  in  height.      The  hammer  of  the 
clock  struck  ten  upon  this  bell,  while  we  were  on  the 
tower  in  which  it  is  suspended.     The  sound  was  like 
thunder  to  our  ears.    From  the  top  of  this  tower  we 


EXETER.  179 

had  an  extensive  view  of  the  city,  and  the  hills  which 
bound  it  on  different  sides,  w^ith  the  windings  of  the 
Exe,   which  discharges  its  waters  into  the  English 
Channel,  at  the  distance  of  9  miles.     The  Cathedral 
contains  a  great  number   of  tombs  and  monuments. 
Those  of  the  Courtenay  family,  hold  a  conspicuous 
station.      The  present  inheritor  of  this  ancient  title 
and  estate,  was  lately  an  inhabitant  of  the  island  of 
New-York,  and  is  now  in  France,  exiled,  in  conse- 
quence of  his  vices,  from  his  native  country.     A  gen- 
tleman with  whom  I  travelled,  told  me  he   was   in 
court   when  the  indictment   of  the  Grand  Jury  was 
read  against  him;  but  he  had  then  fled  the  country. 
There  is  here  a  finely  executed  cenotaph  to  the  late 
Gen.  Simcoe,   by   Flaxman.      We   were   conducted 
through  this  Cathedral  by  a  female,  who  explained, 
with  singular  dexterity  and  correctness,  the  various 
things  relative  to  which  we  wished  to  be  informed. 

We  next  visited  the  gaol  and  bridewell  of  Exeter. 
The   buildings  of  these   institutions  are   quite   mo- 
dern, and  are  constructed,  (especially  the  latter,)  on 
principles,  intended  to   facilitate  the  management  of 
convicts,  and  to  promote  their  reformation.     The  de- 
sign appeared  to  me  much  more  favourable  to  these 
ends  than  that  of  common  prisons,  but  the  rooms  are 
too  small  for  the  number  of  prisoners;  in  consequence 
of  which,  classification,  (the  basis  of  reformation,)  is 
prevented.     In  the  Bridewell,  the  convicts,  consisting 
of  those  who  are  condemned  for  petty  crimes,  are 
kept  at  work.      Beating  hemp  and  polishing  marble 
are  the   chief  occupations  for  those  who  have  not 
trades.     Vagrants  are  likewise  confined  here.     All 
those  who  work  receive  by  law  a  certain  portion  of 


180  JOURNEY    TO    CORNWALL. 

their  earnings  at  the  end  of  the  week.  Their  food 
is  twenty-two  ounces  of  bread  per  diem,  and  half  a 
peck  of  potatoes  per  week.  If  they  choose  to  lay 
out  their  own  earnings  in  meat,  they  are  at  hberty  to 
do  it.  Many  of  them,  however,  get  nothing  but  the 
bread,  and  yet  they  appeared  to  me  remarkably 
healthy.  Transportation  is  sometimes  commuted  for 
labour  in  this  prison.  Great  attention  is  paid  to 
cleanliness.  There  is  a  chapel  in  which  they  are 
assembled  for  worship — i.  e.  to  hear  prayers,  almost 
every  day,  and  a  sermon  once  a  week.  The  build- 
ings are  situated  on  an  eminence,  in  a  pleasant  and 
agreeable  situation. 

Intending  to  pass  through  Exeter  on  my  return,  I 
concluded  to  pursue  my  journey  without  delay,  and 
took  a  seat  at  one  o'clock  in  the  coach  to  Plymouth, 
distant  about  forty-five  miles.  We  followed  the  lower 
road  through  Newton-Bushel  and  Totness.  Within 
nine  miles  from  Exeter  the  road  lies  in  view  of  the 
Exe,  and  passing  over  Haldon  Hill,  opposite  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  the  eye  is  gratified  from  the  top 
of  that  eminence,  with  one  of  the  finest  prospects  I 
ever  beheld.  The  river  Exe,  with  the  town  of  Ex- 
mouth  at  its  junction  with  the  Channel,  several  other 
villages  along  its  margin,  and  an  extensive  reach  of 
cultivated  country,  swelhng  into  high  hills,  and  sink- 
ing into  rich  vallies,  ornamented  with  woods,  and 
orchards  of  fruit  trees,  with  the  city  of  Exeter  and 
the  tall  spire  of  the  cathedral  in  the  rear, — can 
scarcely  fail  to  induce  the  traveller  to  abandon  the 
inside  of  the  coach  and  to  walk  leisurely  over  the 
hill.  Totness  is  a  considerable  borough  on  the  Dart, 
a  river  which  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  thirty  or  forty 


JOURNEY    TO    CORNWALL.  l8l 

tons,  as  high  as  this  place.  The  town  consists  of  a 
single  street  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  Ma- 
nufactories of  serge  and  other  cloths  are  carried  on 
here.  The  situation  of  the  town  is  picturesque  and 
beautiful ;  but  the  narrowness  of  the  street  must  very 
much  diminish  the  comfort  of  those  who  reside  in  it 
This  is  a  fault  very  common  in  the  villages  of  Eng- 
land ;  at  least  in  those  of  the  western  counties.  It  is 
not  unusual,  as  in  the  case  of  Totness,  to  pass  through 
country  towns  composed  chiefly  of  a  single  street,  and 
that  so  narrow  that  two  carriages  cannot  meet  without 
some  risque  to  the  windows  of  the  shops,  and  the 
bones  of  the  people  who  are  walking  the  street. 
Foot-walks  are,  in  many  cases,  out  of  the  question. 
We  changed  horses  at  Ivy-Bridge,  a  picturesque  vil- 
lage on  the  river  Erme,  a  narrow  but  rapid  stream, 
which  pours  its  water  over  a  rocky  channel,  remind- 
ing me  forcibly  of  the  rivulets  of  our  hilly  districts  in 
America;  the  bridge  is  a  single  arch  of  stone  covered 
with  ivy.  I  arrived  at  Plymouth  about  dark,  and  after 
spending  an  agreeable  evening  with  a  friend  for  whom 
1  had  a  letter,  and  finding  that  he  was  under  a  par- 
ticular engagement  for  the  next  day,  concluded  to 
pursue  my  journey  immediately  into  Cornwall. 

16th.  A  hackney  coach  conveyed  me  to  the  Tamar, 
a  broad  river,  or  rather  arm  of  the  sea,  which  forms 
the  principal  harbour  for  ships  of  war.  Here  the 
great  dock-yard  is  situated,  around  which  a  town  has 
been  gradually  built,  which  has  acquired  an  extent 
equal  to  Plymouth  itself  They  are  two  miles  apart, 
each  containing  about  30,000  inhabitants.  The  for- 
mer is  called  Plymouth,  and  the  latter  Plymoutli 
Dock;  or  in  common  parlance,  simply.  Dock.     The 

15* 


182  JOURNEY  TO  CORNWALL. 

ground  upon  which  this  large  town  is  built,  belongs 
entirely  to  Sir  John  St.  Aubyn.  When  the  present 
leases  expire,  the  income  of  this  gentleman,  or  of  his 
heirs,  will,  it  is  said,  be  almost  beyond  calculation. 
Directly  between  these  two  towns,  another  has  re- 
cently been  built,  called  Stonehouse.  The  three  now 
form  almost  a  continued  connexion  of  streets  and 
buildings.  A  great  number  of  ships  of  war  were 
lying  in  the  river,  at  the  time  I  crossed  it.  Some  of 
these  were  of  the  largest  dimensions  now  in  use.  We 
passed  under  the  stern  of  the  Caledonia  of  120  guns. 
The  St.  Vincent,  of  the  same  size,  was  moored  a  few 
yards  distant.  The  enormous  bulk  of  these  floating 
vehicles  of  terror  and  death,  cannot  fail  to  impress 
very  forcibly  the  mind  of  a  person  not  accustomed  to 
behold  them.  The  common  estimate  of  the  cost  of 
a  ship  of  war  in  England  was  formerly  £1000  sterling 
per  gun.  But  several  gentlemen  with  whom  I  con- 
versed, were  of  opinion  it  might  now  be  stated  safely 
at  12  or  £1300.  Each  of  the  two  last  named  ships, 
must,  of  course,  have  cost  the  government  £144,000, 
equal  to  $600,000.  What  an  expensive  game  is  this, 
which  kings  so  often  play  at ! 

We  landed  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  where 
there  is  a  small  town  called  Torr  Point.  I  took  the 
coach  for  Truro,  distant  forty-five  miles ;  breakfasted 
at  Leskard,  a  borough  town  of  2  or  3000  inhabitants, 
pleasantly  situated,  and  containing  a  number  of  gen- 
teel buildings ;  and  thence  proceeded  rapidly  to  Bod- 
min, one  of  the  largest  towns  in  the  county  of  Corn- 
wall. An  asylum,  for  the  insane  of  this  county,  has 
just  been  erected  in  this  town,  upon  a  new  plan.  It 
is  not  yet  opened.     The  road  to  Truro  is  principally 


CORNWALL.  183 

oirer  barren  hills  and  valleys,  the  soil  appearing  inca- 
pable of  producing  any  thing  but  a  little  short  grass. 
The  few  uncomfortable  mud  cottages  of  the  peasants, 
sufficiently  indicate  the  poverty  in  which  they  live. 
The  weather  to-day  was  very  hot;  and  the  roads 
dusty.  It  has  been  about  six  weeks  since  the  last 
considerable  rain. 

Many  inquiries  are  made  of  me  relative  to  Ame- 
rica, and  the  probable  advantage  of  a  removal  to  that 
country,  on  the  part  of  those  who  find  it  difficult  to 
obtain  a  living  here.  In  my  replies,  I  have  endea- 
voured to  discourage  views  of  emigration,  except  of 
those  who  possess  some  capital,  and  sufficient  enter- 
prise and  good  conduct  to  manage  it  prudently ;  or, 
of  mechanics  and  labouring  men,  skilled  in  their 
professions,  and  of  moral  and  industrious  habits. 

A  letter  to  *.  ******  at  Truro,  a  respectable 
banker,  was  attended  with  a  polite  and  friendly  invi- 
tation to  his  house,  as  a  home  during  my  stay  there. 
Refinement,  intelligence,  and  piety,  were  blended  in 
the  character  of  this  gentleman  and  his  family, — 
materials,  which  could  not  fail  to  render  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  evening,  as  remarkable  for  its  intel- 
lectual variety,  as  for  the  excellence  of  its  hospitable 
board. 

17th.  Truro,  though  not  very  large,  is  a  pleasant 
and  busy  town.  My  host  conducted  me  this  morning 
to  a  carpet  manufactory,  in  which  every  part  of  the 
process,  from  the  fleece  to  the  carpet,  is  carried  on 
pretty  largely.  Almost  every  kind  of  carpeting,  from 
the  most  common  and  cheap,  to  the  nicest  Venetian, 
and  the  finest  flowered  Brussels,  is  here  produced.  I 
had  scarcely  a  remote  idea,  prior  to  this  opportunity, 


184  CORNWALL. 

of  the  manner  in  which  6gures  and  flowers  of  the 
greatest  variety  of  forms  and  colours,  are  woven  into 
the  texture  of  the  most  durable  carpeting.  The 
machinery  is  very  comphcated ;  but  yet  depending 
on  principles  or  movements  so  regular,  that  a  boy,  in 
a  short  time,  can  understand  how  to  perform  one  of 
the  most  essential  and  important  parts  of  the  opera- 
tion. Five  yards,  I  was  told,  of  the  flowered  carpets, 
is  a  full  day's  work  for  a  man  and  boy.  Beautiful  rugs 
are  also  manufactured  here.  Those  called  embossed, 
i.  e.  with  the  figures  raised  above  the  surface,  are 
executed  with  great  ingenuity  and  skill.  Baize  is  also 
here  manufactured  ;  and  I  was  astonished  on  being 
informed  by  the  manager,  that  the  price  for  weaving 
it,  (which  is  done  by  women,)  is  one  penny  per  yard. 
"How  many  yards  do  they  weave  per  day  ?"  "  Ten," 
was  the  answer.  Broadcloth  is  woven  double  the  width 
which  it  finally  acquires,  to  allow  for  the  shrinking. 

We  rode  a  few  miles  to  see  the  process  of  smelting 
tin.  The  ore  is  mixed  with  one-eighth  of  its  weight 
of  coal,  and  heated  in  a  reverberatory  furnace ;  "  and 
when  the  tin  melts,"  said  one  of  the  workmen,  "  we 
takes  a  rod  or  punch,  and  we  taps  the  furnace,  and  it 
run  out  into  the  basin,  where  it  cool,  and  then  we  lades 
it  out  into  the  moulds.*"  The  process  is  very  simple. 
The  tin  after  it  is  discharged  into  the  basin,  remains 
in  a  melted  state  some  hours  before  it  is  cool  enough 
for  the  moulds.  A  pellicle  of  oxide  forms  on  the  top, 
and  when  this  is  removed  by  a  stick,  the  fresh  surface 
has  the  highest  reflecting  power  that  I  have  ever 

*  I  give  this  as  an  instance  of  the  perversion  of  one  of  the  rules  ol 
Syntax,  very  common  among  the  lower  orders  of  people  in  the  southern 
counties. 


CORNWALL.  185 

Witnessed.  The  liquid  metal  is  poured  into  cavities 
in  stone,  in  masses  of  about  314lb  each,  constituting 
the  block-tin.  These  blocks  are  examined  by  a 
commission  appointed  for  the  purpose,  weighed  and 
stamped  with  the  royal  mark,  paying  a  duty  to  the 
Prince  Regent  as  Duke  of  Cornwall.  This  duty  is 
4^.  per  hundred  weight  of  tin.  It  is  paid  when  the 
tin  is  assayed  and  licensed.  The  process  is  called 
the  coinage^  from  the  French  word  com,  a  corner ;  be- 
cause a  corner  of  each  block  is  chipped  off  at  the 
office,  and  if  it  be  found  sufficiently  pure,  the  blocks 
are  stamped  with  the  arms  of  the  Duke. 

The  annual  revenue,  arising  to  the  Prince  from  the 
tin  of  this  county,  is  about  £10,000.  The  superiority 
of  British  tin,  has,  it  is  said,  excited  the  cupidity  of 
dealers  on  the  continent,  who  melt  it  up  with  a  por- 
tion of  lead,  a  much  cheaper  metal,  and  then  renew 
upon  the  blocks  a  counterfeit  British  stamp.  The 
common  block  tin,  however,  of  Cornwall,  is  by  no 
means  pure.  The  ore  of  the  tin  mines,  is  so  inti- 
mately associated  with  portions  of  copper,  lead,  ar- 
senical pyrites,  and  other  metals,  a  small  mixture  will 
remain  in  the  block  tin,  unless  separated  by  a  nicer 
mode  of  operation  than  that  generally  practised. 
Grain  or  stream  tin,  is  the  purest  tin  of  commerce. 
This  is  smelted  from  the  finest  ore  by  charcoal ;  but 
the  common  block  tin  is  smelted  with  pit  coal  or 
culm. 

In  the  evening  my  agreeable  hostess  accompanied 
me  to  the  house  of  *.  ********,  her  sister's  husband, 
who  resides  nine  miles  from  Truro.  Their  residence 
is  a  country  seat,  (Burncoose,)  in  a  retired  situation; 
but  the  manner  in  which  they  live  is  indicative  of  true 


186  CORNWALL. 

taste,  comfort  and  independence.  Being  extensively 
concerned  in  the  mines,  and  himself  an  excellent 
mineralogist,  I  had  previously  accepted  an  invitation 
he  gave  me  in  London,  to  make  his  house  my  resi- 
dence while  in  this  county. 


LETTER    IX. 


Southampton,  1th  month,  (J^^y)  30,  1818. 

My  dear  *****, 

On  the  morning  of  the    18th,   mounted   on  good 
horses,  my  friend  W.  and  myself  set  off  to  view  some 
of  the  mines,  of  which  there  are  several  in  his  im- 
mediate neighbourhood.     The  face  of  the  country  in 
the  mining  districts,  wears  the  impression  of  sterility 
and   poverty.      But  agriculture  here   gives   way  to 
the  more   productive   treasures   that    are   profusely 
lodged  beneath  the  surface.     The  prodigious  masses 
of  earth  and  rubbish,  brought  out  of  the  mines,  and 
thrown  in  vast  heaps  around  the  pits,  give  to  the  per- 
spective of  this  hilly  country,  an  appearance,  which 
might  suggest  the  idea  of  its  being  the  grave  yard  of 
all  the  giants.     We  went  to  the  united  mines  of  which 
my  conductor  is  one  of  the  proprietors  and  managers. 
The  produce  of  these  mines  is  principally  copper. 
The  annual  expense    of   their  operations  is  about 
£70,000  sterling.     My  friend  having  business  of  some 
urgency  at  the  counting-room,  put  me  under  the  care 
of  Captain  D.,  one  of  those  to  whom  is  assigned  the 
Immediate  superintendence  of  the  operations  of  the 


CORNWALL.  1 87 

miners.  These  men  have  generally  been  brought  up 
as  miners,  and  having  attained  to  this  station  by  their 
stability  and  good  conduct,  they  are  then  called  cap- 
tains. I  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  venture  down 
into  any  of  the  mines.  Some  of  my  friends  who  had 
experienced  the  excessive  labour  and  fatigue,  and  the 
great  exposure  to  dampness  which  must  be  encoun- 
tered, in  such  a  subterranean  journey,  advised  me 
against  it.  I  could  readily  conceive,  that  to  descend 
a  ladder  or  a  succession  of  ladders,  placed  perpen- 
dicularly, for  500  or  1000  feet;  to  creep  through  pas- 
sages from  which  the  light,  and  the  pure  air  of  the 
hills  are  for  ever  excluded ;  to  become  thoroughly 
soaked  with  water  impregnated  with  copper;  to  be 
stunned  with  the  noise  and  reverberation  of  the  blasts 
of  gunpowder,  used  in  splitting  the  rocks ;  and  what 
is  worse  than  all,  to  climb  up  again,  must  require  an 
effort  for  which  long  practice  or  great  strength  of 
muscle,  could  alone  provide.  Yet  had  my  health 
been  robust,  or  even  unimpaired  by  indisposition, 
curiosity  would  have  prompted  me  to  make  the  trial. 
As  it  was,  I  thought  it  best  to  content  myself  with 
witnessing  the  descent  into  one  of  the  pits,  of  a 
bucket  in  which  was  placed  a  lighted  candle.  It 
continued  visible  until  the  bucket  changed  its  direc- 
tion. The  light  appeared  like  the  reflection  of  a  star, 
as  deep  in  the  bosom  of  a  lake,  as  its  position  in  the 
celestial  vault  could  possibly  make  it. 

The  ore  is  raised  from  the  mines  in  buckets  at- 
tached to  ropes,  which,  turning  over  a  pulley,  wind 
around  a  cylindrical  box  about  fifteen  feet  in  diame- 
ter and  eight  in  length,  placed  with  the  axis  of  the 
cylinder  in  a  vertical  position,  and  supported  by  an 


188  CORNWALL. 

upright  shaft,  at  some  distance  from  the  ground.  Thii' 
shaft,  and  of  course  the  whole  cyhnder,  is  turned  by 
horses,  like  the  grinders  of  a  cider-mill.  They  are 
tailed  whims,  and  are  frequently  placed  at  a  consider- 
able distance  from  the  pit,  the  rope  being  extended 
for  that  purpose,  and  supported  by  frames  and  rollers. 
As  one  bucket  descends  another  ascends.  The  pits, 
in  which  the  workmen  descend  to  the  mines,  are  ge- 
nerally distinct  from  those  in  which  the  buckets  move. 
The  whims  are  sometimes  moved  by  steam,  and  I  be- 
lieve there  are  instances,  in  which  the  men  ascend 
and  descend  by  the  same  shaft  or  pit  through  which 
the  ore  is  raised. 

The  principal  metals,  for  which  the  mines  of  Corn- 
wall are  worked,  are  copper,  tin,  lead,  silver,  and 
cobalt.  The  two  former  are  by  far  the  most  abun- 
dant. Others  are  likewise  found  ;  particularly  iron, 
zinc,  gold,  arsenic,  antimony,  manganese,  uranium, 
molybdena,  titanium,  nickel,  and  bismuth.  The  me- 
tals are  found  in  veins,  or  as  the  miners  term  them, 
lodes  or  loads.  This  term  is  supposed  to  be  an  old 
Anglo-Saxon  word,  implying  lead^  (thus  loadstone 
means  leading-stone,)  the  miner  being  led  by  the  vein 
of  metal  to  pursue  it  in  whatever  direction  it  may 
carry  him.  Others  suppose  the  term  to  mean,  the 
burthen  or  load  of  the  metalliferous  vein. 

Neither  copper  nor  tin  is  found  in  Cornwall,  in  lay- 
ers or  beds.  The  latter,  indeed,  is  found  in  streams 
and  vallies,  in  loose,  detached,  and  generally,  in  rolled 
or  rounded  masses ;  but  these  are  considered  by  all 
as  alluvial  deposits,  broken  from  the  original  veins, 
and  brought  down  by  the  force  of  water ;  whence  they 
acquire  by  friction  their  smooth  and  rounded  surface. 


CORNWALL.  189 

The  places  where  this  kind  of  ore  is  obtained,  have 
been  called  stream  works. 

The  direction  of  the  lodes  or  veins,  is  generally 
east  and  west.  They  are  not  entirely  vertical,  but 
inclined  more  or  less  to  the  north  or  south.  This 
inclination  is  called  the  underlie  of  the  load.  When 
two  contiguous  veins  incline  toward  each  other,  and 
meet  under  ground,  they  are  generally  found  to  be 
much  poorer,  at,  and  after  their  junction,  than  before, 
But  when  their  inclinations  are  in  the  same  direction, 
but  one  of  them  is  so  much  more  rapid  than  the  other 
as  to  overtake  it,  they  are  found  after  their  junction 
to  have  increased  in  richness.  They  vary  much  in 
width,  from  a  few  inches  to  thirty  feet,  but  generally 
from  one  foot  to  three  feet.  Their  depth  is  not  known  j 
as  few  instances  have  occurred  in  which  they  are  not 
continued  downwards,  until  it  no  longer  answers  the 
the  owner's  purpose  to  pursue  them ;  the  increased 
expense,  on  account  of  the  depth,  not  being  compen- 
sated by  the  profit.  The  deepest  mine  in  Cornwall 
(Dolcoath)  is  about  1 360  feet.  The  extent  of  the 
veins  east  and  west,  has  not  been  ascertained,  and 
there  are  reasons  for  believing  that  some  of  them 
pervade  the  county,  and  probably  form  continued  and 
connected  courses  into  Devon  and  Somerset.  That 
they  extend  westward  to  the  ocean,  and  advance  to 
unknown  distances  under  the  sea,  is  well  known. 

"llie  mine  of  Huel  Cock,  in  the  parish  of  St.  Just, 
is  wrought  eighty  iathoms  in  length  under  the  sea^ 
below  low  water  mark  ;  and  the  sea  in  some  places  is 
but  three  fathoms  over  the  back  of  the  workings,  in* 
somuch  that  the  tinners  underneath  hear  the  break, 
flux,  ebb,  and  reflux  of  every  wave,  which  upon  the 
Vol.  T.  16 


190  CORNWALL. 

beach  overhead,  may  be  said  to  have  had  the  run  oi 
the  Atlantic  ocean  for  many  hundred  leagues;  and 
consequently  are  amazinfrly  powerful  and  boisterous.  , 
They  also  hear  the  rumbling  noise  of  every  nodule 
and  fragment  of  rock,  which  are  continually  rolling 
upon  the  submarine  stratum,  which  altogether  make 
a  kind  of  thundering  roar,  that  would  surprise  and 
fearfully  engage  the  attention  of  the  curious  stranger 
Add  to  this,  that  several  parts  of  the  lode,  which 
were  richer  than  others,  have  been  very  indiscreetly 
hulked  and  worked  within  four  feet  of  the  sea ; 
whereby,  in  violent  stormy  weather,  the  noise  over 
head  has  been  so  tremendous  that  the  workmen  have 
many  times  deserted  their  labour,  under  the  greatesi 
fear  lest  the  sea  might  break  in  upon  them."* 

One  mine,  namely,  the  Wherry  tin  mine  at  Pen- 
zance, is  worked  entirely  under  the  sea.  Even  the 
shaft  or  descent  into  the  mine,  is  through  the  sea. 
the  water  being  kept  off  by  iron  cylinders,  from  the 
top  of  which  a  platform  extends  to  the  shore,  of  more 
than  100  yards  in  length,  over  which  materials  arc- 
conveyed  to  and  from  the  mine. 

The  lodes  frequently  approach  the  surface  of  thf 
ground.  These  metallic  veins  vary  extremely  in  the 
nature  and  value  of  their  products.  Besides  copper 
and  tin,  other  metals  are  found  in  different  parts  of 
the  same  vein;  nor  do  the  metallic  contents  of  the 
lode  constitute  the  principal  or  prevailing  part  of  tlie 
mass.  Hence  the  veins  are  not  distinguished  by  the 
miners,  by  the  name  of  the  ore  for  which  they  are 
wrought,  as  a  copper-lode  or  a  tin-lode,  but  they  are 

'^  Piyce's  Miaeralogia  Cornubiensis. 


CORNWALL.  191 

designated  accordiug  to  the  substances  which  pre- 
dominate in  them.  Hence  the  miner  has  a  nomen- 
clature of  his  own.  The  most  frequent  accompani- 
ments of  metals  in  the  veins  of  Cornwall,  (termed  by 
mineralogists  the  gangue  or  matrix,)  are  ferruginous 
or  siliceous  clay,  of  a  loose  texture,  (the  gossan  of  the 
miner,)  quartz  and  fluateoflime,  (spor^)  iron  pyrites, 
(mundick^)  chlorite,  (pea'h,)  a  very  loose  whitish  or 
bluish  clayey  substance,  [flucan.^  blende  or  sulphuret 
of  zinc,  {black  jack ^^  and  gravel  or  decomposed  gra- 
nite, {gronan.)  But  the  composition  and  quality  of 
veins  vary  very  much  in  different  parts  and  at  diflfer- 
ent  depths ;  so  that  without  sinking  thirty,  or  even 
sixty  fathoms,  a  satisfactory  decision  cannot  be  made 
of  the  value  of  the  lode.  The  pursuit  therefore  of 
a  lode,  is  absolutely  an  affair  of  enterprise.  It  may 
lead  to  wealth,  or  to  ultimate  and  immense  loss.  The 
longest  experience  and  the  greatest  ingenuity,  are 
often  entirely  insufficient  or  delusive;  so  uncertain 
are  the  symptoms  of  a  lode.  In  the  great  copper 
mine  of  North  Downs,  no  less  a  sum  than  £90.000 
was  lost;  and  in  other  instances,  a  greater  sum  has 
been  gained,  by  pursuing  lodes  which  have  been  de- 
clared, by  men  of  experience,  to  promise  no  advan- 
tage. Still  the  miners  are  obliged  to  exercise  their 
judgments;  and  their  experience  leads  them  to  be- 
lieve, that  certain  kinds  of  gangue  are  more  favour- 
able indications  of  metal  than  others.  In  conformity 
with  this  experience,  it  is  a  common  saying,  that 
"  black  jack  rides  a  proud  horse ;"  implying  that 
blende  is  often  found  to  lie  above,  in  a  rich  vein  of 
copper  beneath.  The  first  workings  of  a  mine  some- 
times afford  a  different  kind  of  metal  from  that  which 


192  CORNWALL. 

predominates  at  a  greater  depth.  Tlie  mines  of 
Huel  Unity  and  Cooks'  Kitchen,  were  at  iirst  worked 
for  tin  ;  but  this  was  soon  exhausted,  and  gave  place 
to  copper :  but  in  the  latter  mine,  after  working  to  the 
depth  of  180  fathoms,  tin  was  found  again,  and  has 
continued  down  to  the  depth  of  at  least  210  fathoms. 

A  mine  is  only  a  shaft,  or  shafts,  dug  down  into  the 
lodes.  In  the  united  mines,  there  are  twenty  or  thirty 
working  shafts,  which  descend,  within  the  compass  of 
less  than  two  miles,  into  ten  or  twelve  lodes  and 
branches  of  lodes.  The  shafts  are  sometimes  nearly 
perpendicular,  but  commonly  incline.  They  never 
shift  horizontally.  Several  lodes  are  sometimes  con- 
nected with  one  shaft  by  cross  cuts,  about  ten  fathoms 
one  above  another. 

To  get  clear  of  the  water  which  continually  passes 
into  the  openings  made  by  the  miner,  is  a  work  of 
great  labour  and  importance;  and  in  this  his  reliance 
is  upon  the  steam-engine.  These  engines  are  very 
large;  some  of  them  being  equal,  according  to  the 
usual  computation,  to  the  power  of  1000  or  1200 
horses.  The  water  is  raised  from  the  mines  by  the 
engines,  not  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  to  sub- 
terraneous passages,  dug  expressly  for  the  purpose 
of  carrying  it  off  to  the  side  of  a  hill  or  valley.  These 
passages  are  called  adits.  As  the  country  is  hilly 
they  are  not  in  general  of  any  great  length,  seldom 
more  than  half  a  mile,  though  occasionally  much 
longer.  There  is  one  which  conveys  the  water  of 
several  mines  into  one  channel,  and  discharges  it  into 
one  of  the  creeks  of  Falmouth  harbour ;  which,  calcu- 
lating its  various  turnings  and  branches,  is  about 
twenty-four  miles  in  length. 


CORNWALL.  193 

Beside  the  veins  of  multifarious  ores  which  take  the 
general  direction  of  east  and  west,  there  are  others 
which  intersect  them  in  north  and  south  courses. 
These  are  technically  called  cross  courses,  and  are 
seldom  valuable  from  their  contents.  They  vary  from 
half  an  inch  to  a  few  feet  in  width,  and  in  some  tracts 
are  of  very  frequent  recurrence.  They  are  filled 
chiefly  with  quartzey,  clayey,  or  ochreous  substances, 
accompanied  by  the  flucau  of  the  miners.  These 
cross  veins  are  of  use,  however,  in  preventing  the 
water  of  the  neighbouring  country  from  troubling  a 
mine,  but  they  often  occasion  very  serious  perplexi- 
ties to  the  miner,  by  the  disturbances  which  they 
have  produced  in  the  metalliferous  veins.  The  latter 
are  soxneiimea  heaved  by  the  cross  courses,  so  as  to  be 
found  after  the  interruption,  several  feet,  or  even  fa- 
thoms, north  or  south  of  their  regular  track,  and  oc- 
casionally they  are  broken  into  strings  or  branches. 
These  disturbances  of  the  metalliferous  veins,  are 
thus  attended  with  loss  and  vexation  to  the  operator. 

The  effect  of  the  heave  is  sometimes  very  remark- 
able. In  the  mine  of  Huel  Peever,  after  losing  the 
direction  of  the  load,  in  consequence  of  a  heave,  about 
fotii/  years  were  spent  in  searching  for  it,  and  it  was 
at  length  discovered. 

Though  the  cross  courses,  or  north  and  south  veins, 
are  rarely  metalliferous,  there  are  some  exceptions. 
Tin  and  silver,  and  a  few  other  metals,  have  been 
sometimes  found  in  them.  In  one  mine,  the  silver 
thence  obtained,  amounted  in  value  to  8  or  £9,000. 

To  facilitate  the  workings  of  the  mines,  passages 
are  cut  from  one  lode  to  another,  (for  these  lodes  run 
parallel  to  each  other,  at  variable  distances.)  so  that 

16  * 


194 


CORNWALL. 


*he  interior  of  the  mines  has  a  considerable  resem- 
blance, as  the  captain  who  conducted  me  remarked, 
to  the  streets  of  a  town,  crossing  and  intersecting  each 
other  in  various  ways.  "If  you  fancy  one  town  to  be 
placed  immediately  over  another,"  said  he,  "  you 
will  have  a  just  idea  of  the  workings  of  the  mine." 

When  large  veins  are  excavated,  it  becomes  neces- 
sary very  often,  to  support  the  sides  or  walls,  to  pre- 
vent them  from  falling  in.  This  is  generally  done  by 
placing  strong  timbers  across  the  vacuity.  But  so 
great  is  the  pressure,  in  some  instances,  that  notwith- 
standing the  employment  of  the  greatest  skill,  and 
of  vast  labour  and  expense,  the  frame  work  i? 
found  insufficient  to  resist  it.  In  the  mine  called 
Huel  Alfred,*  one  of  the  veins  which  had  been 
hollowed  out  about  100  fathoms  in  depth,  80  fathoms 
in  length  at  bottom,  30  above,  and  from  9  to  24  feet 
wide,  gave  way,  and  many  thousands  of  tons  came 
down  in  an  instant.  Seventeen  men,  who  had  been 
working  in  the  very  place  when  it  fell,  had  fortunately 
left  it  half  an  hour  before  the  accident.  The  whole 
mass  has  been  supported,  and  they  are  now  working 
beneath  it.  The  walls  of  the  lodes,  are,  however, 
more  generally,  perhaps,  supported  by  what  the  mi- 
ner calls  deads ;  that  is,  substances  which  are  not 
worth  removal  from  the  vein. 

Carburetted  hydrogen,  or  fire  damp,  is  not  generated 
in  the  mines  of  Cornwall,  as  in  coal  mines ;  neither 
are  the  miners  subject  to  any  great  exposure,  from 
foul  air  of  any  kind.  The  pyritic  substances,  consist- 
ing mostly  of  sulphurets  of  iron  and  copper,  dis- 

*  Huel,  in  the  Cornish  dialect,  signifies  a  mine.  It  is  frequently,  thouerl 
f-rroneously,  spelled  Wheal 


CORNWALL.  195 

charged  from  the  mine,  and  which  go  by  the  general 
name  of  mundic,  poisons  the  water  to  such  an  extent, 
as  to  destroy  the  grasrS  over  which  it  flows,  and  very 
much  to  injure  the  fertiHty  of  the  soil.  The  miners 
have  to  bring  the  water,  used  in  their  families,  often 
from  a  great  distance.  Ft  is  carried  in  wheel-barrows 
over  the  hills.  The  sorting,  sifting,  pounding,  and 
washing  the  ore,  are  operations  performed  very  much 
by  women.  It  is  exceedingly  laborious ;  but  they  get 
accustomed  to  it,  and  do  not  hesitate  to  engage  in  it. 
Indeed  it  is  singular,  that  although  the  business  of 
mining  presents  such  a  continued  series  of  the  most 
toilsome,  exposing,  noxious,  and  even  dangerous  ope- 
rations which  men  can  engage  in,  the  miners  are  sel- 
dom disposed  to  leave  it  for  any  other.  They  prefer 
it  to  agricultural  labours.  The  truth  is,  it  brings 
them  together,  makes  them  acquainted  with  each 
other,  and  produces  a  kind  o^  esprit  de  corps ^  which  is 
perhaps  one  of  the  most  powerful  principles  of  human 
action.  Besides,  those  who  are  engaged  in  the  body 
of  the  mines,  work  but  8  hours  in  the  24.  There  are 
of  course  three  sets,  who  relieve  each  other  as  regu- 
larly as  sailors  in  a  ship  at  sea.  They  perform  their 
work  generally  by  the  piece,  or  they  will  do  it  for  a 
certain  share  of  the  produce  of  the  ore,  but  it  is  sel- 
dom that  they  work  by  the  day.  They  are  often  sub- 
ject to  great  losses  by  this  mode  of  working,  some- 
times sacrificing  not  only  the  whole  of  their  labour, 
but  incurring  an  actual  debt  for  tools,  gunpowder,  &c. 
The  same  mode  of  labour,  it  is  true,  yields  at  other 
times  a  much  greater  profit  than  they  could  possibly 
gain  in  working  by  the  day ;  and  such  is  the  hope  in- 
spired by  occasional  success  in  this  kind  of  subterra- 


196  CORNWALL. 

nean  lottery,  they  too  often  prefer  to  make  the  delusive 
hazard,  than  to  accept  of  moderate  and  certain  wages. 
Most  of  the  miners,  it  is  to  be  feared,  live  in  poverty. 
The  state  of  morals  amofig  them  was.  some  time  ago, 
very  low.  Irreligion,  profanity,  and  dishonesty,  were 
the  prevailing  traits  of  a  miner's  character;  and  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  mines  could  scarcely  be  con- 
sidered as  a  place  of  security,  for  an  independent 
gentleman  or  farmer.  The  case,  however,  is  now 
greatly  altered  for  the  better.  A  very  salutary  re- 
form has  been  produced,  in  a  great  measure  by  the 
efforts  of  the  Methodists,  in  establishing  meetings 
among  them.  The  introduction  of  the  Bible,  and  the 
extension  of  education,  have  had  their  effects,  though 
it  is  still  to  be  feared  that  the  education  of  their  chil- 
dren is  too  much  neglected.  The  miners  are  consi- 
dered, in  point  of  shrewdness  and  intelligence,  as  su- 
perior to  the  class  of  ordinary  labourers. 

When  the  defective  education  of  the  miner  is  con- 
sidered, together  with  the  dark  and  dismal  abode  in 
which  he  spends  so  much  of  his  time,  it  is  not  surpri- 
sing that  he  should  be  superstitious.  To  this  source 
must  be  ascribed  many  of  his  particular  fancies  and 
predilections,  connected  with  his  employment.  Some 
of  them  imagine  that  they  hear,  while  employed  under 
ground,  another  pick  at  work,  and  which  they  refer 
to  the  agency  of  an  evil  spirit,  which  they  term  a 
Pisfrei/^  or  small  man.  It  is  esteemed  an  omen  of  the 
most  favourable  kind,  inspiring  them  with  the  full  be- 
lief, that  a  good  course  of  ore  is  near  at  hand.  The 
illusion  is,  in  all  probability,  referable  to  a  reverbe- 
ration of  sound,  from  some  incidental  cavity  of  the 
mine.     The  use  too  of  the  divining  rod,  (yirgula  dm- 


CORNWALL.  197 

uitoria^)  in  the  discovery  of  veins,  and  which  is  still 
credulously  practised,  must  doubtless  be  attributed 
to  the  same  cause. 

We  dined  in  company  with  eight  or  ten  captains  of 
the  mines,  at  the  house  in  which  they  transact  their 
business,  on  a  fine  cut  of  roast  beef,  and  good  wine. 
After  visiting  the  mine  called  Wheal  Unity,  we  took 
tea  at  Scorrier,  the  residence  of  my  friend's  father. 
The  mineralogical  cabinet  of  the  former  still  remains 
here.  It  fills  a  large  room,  and  certairdy  contains 
some  of  the  finest  and  largest  specimens  of  the  metal- 
lic kind  1  have  ever  seen.  They  are  mostly  from  the 
mines  of  Cornwall,  and  the  variety  which  they  exhi- 
bit, is  truly  surprisirig.  This  collection,  however, 
is  rich  in  foreign  specimens,  and  if  not  quite  so  gene- 
ral  as  some  others,  it  is  on  the  whole,  as  a  private 
collection,  unusually  extensive  and  valuable. 

In  a  general  point  of  view,  the  geology  of  Cornwall, 
so  far  as  it  has  been  well  examined,  is  sufficiently 
simple.  A  broad,  but  not  an  elevated  range  of  gra- 
nite, extends  in  the  direction  of  N.  E.  and  S.  W.  from 
near  the  centre  of  Devonshire,  (the  adjoining  county,) 
through  the  middle  of  Cornwall  to  its  western  extre- 
mity.  Upon  this  granite,  on  each  side  of  the  central 
ridge,  reposes  a  stratum  of  clay  slate,  the  killas  of  the 
miner.  The  granite  is  in  some  places,  in  a  state  of 
decomposition,  and  thus  affords  excellent  materials 
for  the  manufactory  of  porcelain.  The  feldspar 
forms  two-thirds  of  the  mass,  in  which  crystals  of 
quartz,  and  scales  of  mica  are  embedded,  together 
with  crystals  of  a  compact,  earthy  feldspar.  The 
clay  slate  is  evidently  stratified.  On  the  north  side 
of  the  county,  it  yields  roofing  slate  of  an  excellent 


198  CORNWALL. 

quality.  It  is  in  those  two  substances,  granite  and 
clay  slate,  that  the  metalliferous  veins  extend,  which 
have  contributed  so  much  to  the  prosperity  of  Eng- 
lish maiiufictures,  and  which  render  the  county  of 
of  Cornwall  one  of  the  most  distinguished  mining 
districts  in  the  world. 

The  granite  and  slate  are  found,  in  some  parts  of 
the  county,  to  alternate  with  each  other,  in  a  very 
remarkable  manner,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  say  in 
which  of  these  some  of  the  mines  are  situated.  But 
this  is  probably  the  case  more  particularly  with  those 
mines  that  are  at  the  foot,  or  in  the  imiTiediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  granite  hills.  In  some  of  these  cases,  if 
not  in  all,  the  granite  shows  an  evident  tendency  to 
decomposition.  They  both  vary  extremely  in  hard- 
ness. The  granite,  when  beginning  to  decompose,  is 
so  crumbly  as  to  require  that  the  adits  or  levels 
should  be  lined  with  boards  close  to  each  other;  but 
in  other  situations,  it  has  a  hardness  almost  equal  to 
porphyry.  And  with  respect  to  the  schist,  it  may  be 
mentioned,  that  in  sinking  two  shafts  in  one  of  the 
most  noted  mines,  about  fifty  fathoms  from  each  other, 
the  pay  to  the  miner,  was  in  the  one  instance  £55, 
per  fathom,  and  in  the  other  but  £5. 

Both  granite  and  schist  contain  veins  or  lodes  of 
tin  and  copper.  The  latter  metal,  however,  is  far 
more  commonly  found  in  the  slate  formation.  Indeed 
it  was  considered,  until  within  the  last  fifty  years,  a 
hopeless  case  to  think  of  finding  a  vein  of  copper  in 
granite,  or  gouan,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  miner.  But 
later  experience  has  proved,  that  lodes  containing 
copper,  are  found  in  granite.  These  two  metals  con- 
stitute, as  1  have  before  mentioned,  by  far  the  most 


CORNWALL.  399 

productive  part  of  the  mineral  riches  of  this  remark- 
able  county. 

Cornwall  is,  without  doubt,  the  most  productive  tin 
country  in  the  world.  It  has  been  distinguished  for 
its  mines  of  this  metal  from  the  earliest  periods  of  au- 
thentic history.  The  Phoenicians,  according  to  Stra- 
bo,  extended  their  commerce  beyond  the  pillars  of 
Hercules,  and  discovered  the  Cassiierides^  or  Tin 
Islands  ;  and,  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  kept 
their  foreign  treasure  concealed  from  the  prying  cu- 
riosity of  the  Greeks  and  Romans.  In  one  instance, 
the  same  author  states,  that  the  Captain  of  a  Phoeni- 
cian vessel,  returning  from  Britain,  seeing  himself  pur- 
sued by  a  Roman  galley,  chose  rather  to  run  his  vessel 
among  the  rocks,  that  the  Romans  might  experience 
a  like  fate,  than  to  be  the  means  of  discovering  so  va- 
luable a  commerce  to  the  enemies  of  his  country. 
The  Phoenicians  are  said  to  have  enjoyed  this  trade 
for  about  300  years.  It  is  uncertain  what  use  they 
made  of  the  tin ;  but  as  it  is  now  known  to  be  an  im- 
portant substance  in  the  art  of  dying,  it  seems  proba- 
ble that  it  was  used  by  them  in  perfecting  the  purple 
and  scarlet,  for  which  some  of  their  cities  acquired  so 
much  fame.  The  manufacture  of  ancient  brass  (a 
mixture  of  copper  and  tin)  may  also  have  consumed 
no  inconsiderable  share.  After  the  conquest  of  Bri- 
tain, by  the  Romans,  the  mines  of  Cornwall  became 
the  undisturbed  property  of  that  people,  until  the 
subversion  of  their  empire  in  the  west.  In  proof  of 
those  ancient  operations  in  the  tin  mines  of  this  coun- 
ty, there  have  been  found,  it  is  said,  picks  and  other 
tools  of  a  peculiar  construction,  together  with  large 
pieces  ot  timber,  far  beneath  the  surface.     But  as 


200  CORNWALL. 

these  old  workings  were  effected  without  the  aid  ot 
gunpowder,  and  the  equally  important  agency  of  the 
steam  engine,  they  came  vastly  short  of  the  present 
extent,  productiveness,  and  importance  of  the  exist- 
ing system  of  mitiing  operations. 

The  only  metal  sought  after  in  these  mines,  until 
about  the  commencement  of  the  last  century,  was  tin. 
The  copper  ore,  which  must,  from  the  earliest  period, 
have  been  found  in  considerable  abundance,  was  con- 
sidered as  worse  than  useless. 

It  appears,  from  a  statistical  account  of  the  mines, 
that  the  whole  quantity  and  value  of  tin  raised  in 
Cornwall  and  Devon,  during  the  eighteenth  century, 
was  about  24,000  tons,  amounting  to  £1,240,000.  The 
produce  in  tin  has  rather  declined  since  the  year 
1800;  but  this  has  been  more  than  compensated  by 
the  rapid  increase  in  the  quantity  and  value  of  the 
copper.  This  metal  being  much  more  difficult  of  re- 
duction than  tin.  the  smelting  of  it  was  for  a  long 
time  in  the  hands  of  very  few  companies.  Neither 
the  miners,  nor  the  great  consumers  of  the  copper, 
were  the  smelters  of  the  ore ;  and  thus  was  prevented 
that  salutary  competition,  which  tends  so  essentially 
to  animate  and  to  foster  the  progress  of  the  useful  arts. 
So  late  as  1745,  or  1750,  copper  tea  kettles,  sauce- 
pans, and  pots  of  all  sizes,  were  imported  largely  into 
England  from  Holland  and  Hamburg.  But  in  about 
forty  years  after,  so  great  was  the  spirit  of  enterprize, 
in  relation  to  this  branch  of  national  industry,  the  ex- 
port of  different  articles,  in  which  copper  formed  ei- 
ther the  whole  or  principal  ingredient,  amounted  to 
an  extensive  branch  of  trade,  even  to  those  countries 
on  which  England  had  before  depended  for  a  supply. 


CORNWALL.  201 

In  the  year  1791,  the  value  of  exported  copper,  and 
of  brass  and  plated  goods,  was  more  than  £500,000 
sterling.  In  the  last  seventy  years,  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  the  annual  produce  of  this  metal,  from  the 
Cornish  mines,  had  increased  from  750  to  5427  tons; 
and  the  value  of  this  single  article,  had  augmented 
from  £47,350,  to  about  600,000  a  year ;  and  in  the 
next  eight  or  nine  years,  half  as  much  more  was  ad- 
ded to  the  quantity,  and  more  than  that  proportion  to 
the  value. 

In  the  year  1805,  owing  to  the  flourishing  state  of 
the  export  trade,  the  value  of  copper  rose  so  rapidly, 
as  to  reach  the  unprecedented  price  of  £180  per  ton, 
to  the  miner.  In  consequence  of  this  stimulus,  the 
mines  of  Devonshire  and  Cornwall  yielded,  in  that 
year,  more  than  7000  tons  of  fine  copper,  amounting 
to  £1,260,000.  The  price  has  since  experienced 
great  fluctuations,  occasioning,  at  times,  serious  em- 
barrassments, and  great  loss  to  the  adventurers.  As 
a  branch  of  national  skill,  industry,  commerce,  and 
wealth,  the  value  of  these  mines  are  of  immense  im- 
portance, whatever  may  be  the  partial  losses  of  indi- 
vidual companies.* 

The  mines  of  tin  are  evidently  on  the   decline; 
though  still   sufficient  to  supply,  in  abundance,  this 
<?<5mseful  metal.     The   principal  part,  is  at  present  ob- 
tained,  from  the  western  extremity  of  the  county. 

*  In  the  year  ending  June  30,  1822,  the  qtiantity  of  copper  raised  in 
Cornwall,  was  9140  tons,  and  in  other  parts  of  Great  Britain,  and  in  Ire- 
land, 1704  tons.  The  average  price  of  copper  was  108/.  15s.  per  ton.  The 
ores  yielded  8i  per  cent,  of  metal- 
In  the  six  months  preceding  June  30,  1 822,  the  quantity  of  ore  raised 
from  sixty-seven  mines  in  Cornwall,  amounted  to  52,125  tons. 

Annals  of  PhUosopfiyi 

Vol.  I.  37 


202  CORNWALL. 

When  these  are  worked  out,  it  is  not  improbable  that 
the  high  plains  of  Dartmoor,  in  Devonshire,  an  ei- 
tensive  granitic  tract,  and  which  has  been  much  less 
explored  for  mines,  than  Cornwall,  may  afford  a  sea- 
sonable and  ample  supply.* 

21st.  I  accompanied  my  friend  W.  this  morning  to 
Falmouth.  This  town  contains  upwards  of  4000  in- 
habitants. It  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Fal,  which  near  its  embouchure  forms  a  bay,  that  af- 
fords one  of  the  finest  harbours  in  the  kingdom.  The 
departure  and  arrival  of  the  packets  to  all  parts  of 
the  British  dominions,  and  the  trade  in  timber,  iron, 
&c.  for  the  mines,  constitute  the  chief  sources  of  ac- 
tivity and  interest  at  this  place.  The  town  consists, 
mainly,  of  one  long  street,  which  is  so  narrow  that 
two  carriages  can  scarcely  pass  each  other.  There 
is  not  a  house  in  the  whole  street,  in  which  a  com- 
fortable Philadelphian  would  wish  to  live,  excepting 
that  of  R.  W.  Fox,  the  American  consul,  which  com- 
mands a  fine  prospect  of  land  and  water.  With  this 
gentleman  we  dined.  He  received  his  commission, 
as  consul,  from  General  Washington ;  and  is,  if  I  mis- 
take not,  the  only  remaining  consul  in  England,  who 
is  not  an  American.  He  is  a  member  of  the  society 
of  Friends,  intelligent,  and  greatly  respected,  and 
though  advanced  in  years,  is  still  very  active.  He 
has  a  large  and  interesting  family.f 

*  In  the  foregfoing  statement  of  the  geology  and  mining  operations  ©f 
Cornwall,  I  have  availed  myself,  liberally,  of  the  valuable  little  work  of  my 
friend  W.  Philips,  on  the  Geology  of  England  and  Wales.  A  new  and  en- 
larged edition  of  this  work,  the  joint  production  of  Philips  and  Conybeare, 
is  DOW,  m  part,  before  the  public. 

\  This  worthy  man  is  since  deceased :  his  son  R.  W.  Fox  is  his  successor 
in  the  consulate. 


CORNWALL.  203 

23(i.  1  prepared  this  morning  to  leave  my  Cornish 
friends,  whose  house  had  furnished  me  with  an  excel- 
lent home  for  nearly  a  week,  and  whose  society  and 
conversation,  had  caVised  the  time  to  pass  away  most 
pleasantly  and  instructively.  The  recollection  of  my 
visit  to  Burncoose,  like  that  at  Bristol,  will  ever  con- 
tinue to  afford  me  the  most  lively  satisfaction.  In  that 
spirit  of  true  friendship,  which  bids  welcome  to  the 
coming  and  speed  to  the  parting  guest,  I  was  furnished 
with  a  gig  to  Truro,  and  a  man  on  horseback  to  bring 
it  back.  While  in  this  town,  I  had  an  opportunity  to 
visit  the  rooms  of  the  Philosophical  Institution  lately 
established,  in  company  with  its  two  secretaries.  This 
institution,  though  opposed  in  its  interests  by  another 
at  Penzance,  has  made  a  respectable  progress.  It 
possesses  a  good  variety  of  philosophical  appara- 
tus, and  a  handsome  collection  of  minerals.  In  the 
cabinet  is  a  single  specimen  of  carbonate  of  lead, 
from  one  of  the  mines  of  the  county,  which  is  valued 
at  £27  sterling, — ^a  proof  of  the  great  importance  at- 
tached to  fine  specimens,  even  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
mines  which  produce  them.  So  well  do  the  miners 
themselves  know  how  to  estimate  the  value  of  rare 
or  fine  specimens,  and  so  numerous  now  are  the  col- 
lectors and  purchasers  of  minerals,  even  the  proprie- 
tors and  managers  of  the  mines,  cannot  easily  obtain 
from  the  workmen  specimens  of  particular  beauty  or 
interest,  without  paying  well  for  them. 

I  dined  at  *.  ******'s^  in  company  with  a  clergyman 
of  Redruth,  a  sensible  man  and  a  philanthropist.  He 
ascribed  much  of  the  depravity  of  the  lower  orders  of 
people  in  the  west  of  England,  to  the  habit  of  drinking. 
in  the  town  of  Redruth,  which  contains  about  6000 


204  CORNWALL. 

inhabitants,  he  stated  that  tliere  were  thirteen  tipling 
houses,  which  he  considered  as  truly  enormous.  Yet 
1  could  have  informed  him,  that  they  might  have  had 
iifty  or  sixty  of  these  houses,  without  exceeding  the 
number,  in  proportion  to  their  population,  which  is 
known  to  exist  at  the  present  time  in  New-York. 

The  town  of  Truro  is  finely  supplied  with  water.  It 
is  brought  from  an  eminence,  and  is  conducted  along 
an  open  space  to  the  side  of  the  town,  where  a  por- 
tion of  it  is  let  off  into  the  streets,  through  many  of 
which,  it  flows  in  a  constant  limpid  stream,  affording, 
in  addition  to  domestic  convenience,  great  refresh- 
ment and  coolness  in  hot  vi-^eather. 

24th.  Left  Truro  at  eight,  in  the  mail  for  Plymouth, 
but  by  a  route  different  from  that  by  which  1  came. 
We  passed  through  Probus,  a  small  village,  near 
which  are  several  beautiful  seats  and  grounds  of  men 
of  wealth,  and  of  course,  men  of  influence,  consti- 
tuted as  this  government  is,  and  resting  on  the  basis 
of  pounds  shillings  and  pence.  But  although  the 
liberality  of  these  country  gentlemen  is  almost  un- 
bounded, when  the  purposes  of  a  borough  election 
call  for  it,  they  have  not  all  the  reputation  of  gene- 
rosity on  ordinary  occasions.  I  was  informed  by  a 
respectable  looking  person  in  the  coach,  that  on  the 
gate  of  a  spacious  and  elegant  mansion,  which  we 
had  then  in  view,  a  placard  was  once  fixed  with 
these  lines, 

A  large  park,  but  no  deer, 
A  large  cellar,  but  no  beer, 
A  large  hall,  but  no  cheer, 
Sir  * —  *******  lives  here. 

Grampound,  a  small  village,  is  a  borough  town,  send- 
ing two  members  to  Parliament,  and  reckoning  within 


CORNWALL.  205 

lis  limits  not  more  than  twenty-five  voters !  Cornwall 
has  a  pretty  full  share  of  these  rotten  boroughs.  They 
must  each  of  them  have  a  mayor,  alderman,  recorder, 
town  clerk,  &c.  The  Mayor  of  Grampound,  1  am 
told,  is  a  shoemaker;  but  when  once  raised  to  this 
high  office,  Crispin  would,  doubtless,  be  as  likely  as 
any  other  man,  to  think  of  its  dignities;  and  it  would 
be  indecorous  to  address  him  by  any  other  title  than 
that  of  "  your  worship."* 

St.  Austel,  another  town  on  our  route,  contains 
about  4000  inhabitants.  They  subsist  chiefly  by  the 
pilchard  fishery,  by  mining,  and  the  manufactory  of 
serges.  The  great  tin  mine  of  Polgooth  is  in  the 
neighbourhood ;  and  one  of  the  principal  stannary 
courts,  (the  court  which  decides  upon  the  coinage  of 
tin,  and  authorises  the  royal  stamp  to  be  put  on  each 
block,)  is  held  here.  It  is  remarkable  that  this  mine 
is  so  rich  in  tin,  that  even  the  cross  courses,  almost 
universally,  as  it  is  said,  produce  that  metal. 

We  arrived  at  Torr  Point  on  the  river  Tamar,  to- 
wards evening,  having  passed  through  Leskard,  and 
some  other  towns  of  less  note.  Here  I  took  leave  of 
Cornwall,  the  Tamar  being  the  line  of  separation  be- 
tween this  county  and  Devonshire. 

Notwithstanding  the  frequent  occurrence  of  exten- 
sive downs  or  barren  hills,  the  ride  this  day  has  been 
very  interesting.  The  grain  in  most  places  was  nearly 
ripe ;  and  in  some  fields  the  harvest  had  commenced. 
The  contrast  is  very  great  between  the  highly  im- 
proved grounds  and  stately  mansions  of  the  large 

*  This  borough  has  since  been  disfranchised  by  Parliament,  for  a  gross 
abuse  of  its  privileges. 

17* 


206  rORNWALL. 

landholders,  and  the  miserable  mud  cottages  of  the 
poor.  Some  villages  are  composed  almost  entirely  of 
these  cob  cottages,  covered  with  straw.  The  coun- 
try being  very  hilly,  and  the  fields  generally  small, 
and  intersected  by  green  hedges,  the  eye  sometimes 
takes  in,  from  the  most  elevated  points  on  the  road, 
a  hundred  of  these  fields.  The  absence  of  extensive 
w^oodlands,  and  the  \ery  numerous  enclosures,  over 
which  the  eye  ranges,  give  to  some  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, at  least  in  the  view  of  an  American,  the  appear- 
ance of  a  great  garden.  I  observed  several  planta- 
tions of  small  oak  trees,  and  some  of  pines. 

The  roads  in  Cornwall,  as  well  as  in  Devonshire, 
are  generally  very  narrow.  The  fences,  in  many 
parts,  are  stone  walls,  or  more  generally,  a  low  wall 
built  upon  a  high  bank  of  earth.  Hedges,  however, 
are  numerous,  and  interspersed  as  they  are  with  ever- 
greens, they  afTord  an  almost  perennial  verdure; 
while  the  flowers,  which  adorn  the  banks  on  which 
they  grow,  regale  the  senses  of  the  traveller,  and 
beautify  the  prospect  around  him. 

The  antiquities  of  this  county  are  numerous.  Rude 
monuments  of  large  stones,  arranged  in  a  particular 
form,  and  without  any  appearance  of  architectural 
skill,  are  to  be  found  in  many  places.  They  are  de- 
nominated druidical  circles,  karns,  or  cromlechs. 
Their  origin  is  unknown.  There  are  many  Roman 
relicks ;  and  the  remains  of  some  of  the  old  baronial 
castles  are  considered  as  among  the  most  magnificent 
ruins  in  the  kingdom.  This  is  said  to  be  the  fact 
very  particularly  with  regard  to  Restormel  castle,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Lestwithiel,  the  residence,  in 


'it> 


CORNWALL.  :  207 

Very  early  periods,  of  the  Earls  of  Cornwall;  but  my 
time  did  not  admit  of  a  digression  to  this  venerable 
ruin, 

I  ought  not  to  leave  Cornwall  without  an  acknow- 
ledgment, that  the  inhabitants  appeared  to  me,  as 
far  as  my  intercourse  with  them  extended,  to  possess 
rather  an  unusual  degree  of  intelligence  and  hospi- 
tality. If  personal  beauty,  too,  be  necessarily  con- 
nected with  rosy  cheeks  and  florid  complexions,  the 
females  of  this  part  of  England  are  entitled  to  a  pre- 
eminence in  personal  charms.  Every  traveller  must 
be  struck  with  the  appearance  of  almost  universal 
bloom,  even  among  the  inhabitants  of  mud  cottages, 
the  female  inmates  of  which,  scarcely  fail  to  place 
themselves  at  the  door,  from  motives  of  curiosity,  (I 
can  hardly  think  of  vanity,)  when  the  passage  of  the 
stage  coach  is  announced  by  the  rattle  of  the  wheels 
or  the  sound  of  the  driver's  bugle.  Education  is  an 
object  of  pointed  attention  and  zeal,  in  many  parts 
of  the  county.  Sir  Humphrey  Davy  is  a  native  of  the 
western  part  of  Cornwall,  and  there  received  those 
early  impulses  which  have  placed  him  in  so  high  a 
rank  in  the  science  of  his  country.* 

We  crossed  the  Tamar  once  more,  among  the  im- 
mense floating  batteries,  which  there  lie  in  ordinary, 
and  upon  getting  into  the  dock,  I  found  there  was  no 
way  of  reaching  Plymouth,  without  waiting  longer 
than  I  wished,  but  to  use  my  feet.  A  porter  slung 
my  baggage  on  his  back,  and  we  walked  the  two 
miles  through  fortifications,  over  bridges,  and  along 
streets,  filled  with  limestone  dust,  to  the  Commercial 
Inn. 

*  Now  President  of  the  Royal  Society. 


208  PLYMOUTH. 

25th.  Having  breakfasted  with  a  friend,*.  ********^ 
who,  knowing  of  ray  intention  to  be  at  Plymouth  to- 
day, had  made  an  arrangement  to  go  with  me  to  the 
most  interesting  places  in  the  neighbourhood,  we  di- 
rected our  steps  to  the  dock-yard.  In  our  way  we  pass- 
ed through  the  market  of  Plymouth,  its  construction  is 
different  from  any  I  had  seen,  and  I  think  it  preferable. 
The  space  allotted  for  the  market  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall,  with  gates  of  sufficient  width  for  carts  and 
people.  Along  the  wall  within,  are  shops  for  the  butch- 
ers, with  a  fire-place  and  chimney  in  each,  large  enough 
for  cooking  breakfast.  Their  wives  and  daughters 
assist  in  the  operations  of  the  shop,  weighing  the 
meat,  changing  money,  S^c.  These  shops  have  an  ap- 
pearance of  great  neatness  and  comibrt.  The  vege- 
table market  is  in  the  area,  either  under  suitable 
sheds,  or  on  the  open  ground.  One  side  of  the  wall 
is  appropriated  to  fish,  having  a  wide  roof  extending 
over  it,  and  suitable  fixtures  for  carving  and  weighing 
the  fish,  with  seats  for  the  fish-mongers.  The  variety 
of  species,  which  the  Plymouth  market  affords,  espe- 
cially of  such  as  are  unknown  in  those  of  the  United 
States,  excited  my  surprise.  I  desired  my  companion 
to  give  me  the  names  of  the  difTerent  kinds  which 
were  then  on  the  stalls.  The  following  is  the  list: — 
Cod,  Whiting,  Whiting  Pollock,  Bream,  Turbot,  Sole, 
(of  which  there  were  three  kinds,)  Hake,  Red  Gurnet, 
Grey  Gurnet,  Place,  John  Dory,  Red  Mullet,  Ling, 
Ray,  Longnoses,  Conger  Eel,  Fresh  Water  Eel,  Mack- 
arel.  Horse  Mackarel,  Piper,  Tub,  Dab,  Scollop, 
Smelt,  Crabs,  Lobsters,  Crawfish,  Cockles,  Prills,  and 
Muscles.  These,  of  course,  were  only  the  fish  of  the 
season.     The  size  of  the  crabs  is  much  greater  than 


PLYMOUTH.  209 

any  I  have  ever  seen  in  New-York.  One  of  them, 
with  only  one  claw,  weighed  seven  pounds.  The 
Conger  Eel  grows  to  an  enormous  size.  There  were 
several  in  the  market  five  or  six  feet  in  length,  and 
seven  or  eight  inches  in  diameter.  My  conductor 
bought  the  half  of  one  which  weighed  fitty-six  pounds ; 
the  price,  three  halfpence  per  pound.  The  flesh 
is  very  white,  and  when  properly  cooked,  extremely 
savoury,  especially  in  a  pie,  as  I  afterwards  ascer- 
tained at  the  dinner  table. 

The  market  at  the  dock,  afforded  the  same  variety. 
The  market-house,  at  that  place,  for  the  purpose  of 
economising  room,  has  been  made  two  stories  high ; 
and  the  plan  appeared  to  be  really  convenient.  The 
steps  to  the  upper  floor  are  wide  and  easy,  and  the 
articles  exposed  for  sale,  in  that  part  of  the  market, 
are  of  light  carriage.  Poultry  and  butter,  are  sold 
there,  and  no  where  else.  My  friend  endeavoured  to 
procure  me  an  admission  to  the  Dock  Yard,  by  a  spe- 
cial request,  contained  in  a  letter  to  the  Commissioner; 
but,  finding  [  was  an  American,  he  replied  by  a  note 
that  he  had  no  authority  to  admit  me.  Thus  was  I 
disappointed  in  one  of  the  most  interesting  objects  of 
a  visit  to  Plymouth — an  inspection  of  the  vast  opera- 
tions carried  on  within  the  Dock  Yard,  conducted,  as 
they  are,  by  the  concentrated  skill  and  science  of  the 
nation. 

This  yard  is  very  extensive,  but  not  more  so  thftn 
that  at  Portsmouth,  at  which  place  1  hope  to  be  more 
successful.  The  whole  area  of  the  yard,  except  on 
the  water  side,  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall.  The 
gate  is  fortified,  and  armed  centries  are  constantly 
stationed  at  it.     The  workmen  were  going  to  dinner 


210  MOUNT-EDGECUMBE. 

while  we  were  there.  They  poured  through  the  gate 
in  a  dense  stream,  which  continued  a  great  length  of 
time.  The  number  generally  employed  in  the  yard, 
I  was  told,  is  from  2500  to  3000. 

Taking  a  boat,  we  crossed  the  river  to  Mount-Edge- 
cumbe,  to  view  the  seat  and  grounds  of  the  Earl  of 
Mount-Edgecumbe.  The  natural  advantages  of  this 
ancient  residence  of  nobility,  in  point  of  prospect,  and 
beauty  of  situation,  cannot  be  too  highly  praised. 
The  towns  of  Plymouth,  Stonehouse,  and  Plymouth 
Dock — the  villages  of  Torr-Point  and  Saltash — the 
fleet  riding  in  the  river — the  busy  scenes  in  the  Dock 
Yard — the  high  hills,  and  the  cultivated  fields  of 
Cornwall  and  Devonshire — the  Break  Water,  Eddy- 
Stone  Light-House,  and  the  wide  expanse  of  the  sea, 
are  all  presented  to  the  eye,  from  various  points  of 
this  delightful  eminence.  Art  has  not  been  wanting 
to  embellish  the  features  of  nature.  The  mansion, 
house,  however,  has  nothing  remarkable  in  its  ap- 
pearance. The  park  is  very  extensive,  and  contains 
an  abundance  of  deer. 

In  a  retired  spot,  in  these  grounds,  a  favourite  pig 
of  the  Dutchess  was  buried,  and  a  monument  erected 
to  its  memory.  The  coat  of  arms  of  the  family,  hap- 
pen also  to  contain  a  pig.  The  King  and  Queen  once 
visited  Mount-Edgecumbe,  and  on  coming  to  the  pig's 
grave  and  monument,  the  Queen  asked  the  King  what 
it  Was.  "  A  family  vault,  Charlotte,  a  family  vault," 
was  the  witty  answer  of  his  Majesty. 

Having  engaged  the  boatman  who  brought  us  overt 
we  left  Mount-Ed £:ecum be  to  visit  the  Break-Water. 
This  is  a  stupendous  undertaking,  commenced  about 
seven  years  ago,  for  the  purpose  of  checking  the  vio- 


BREAK-WATER.  21 1 

lent  incursions  of  the  sea,  upon  the  town  and  harbour, 
during  the  prevalence  of  storms.  It  was  no  less  a 
scheme,  than  that  of  erecting  a  barrier  of  stones,  in  the 
middle  of  the  Bay,  which  at  that  place  is  five  miles  wide, 
and  at  a  distance  from  the  town  of  about  three  miles. 
They  have  already  thrown  in  a  quantity  sufficient 
to  raise  a  ridge  a  mile  long,  and  have  brought  it,  the 
greater  part  of  that  distance,  above  high  water  mark. 
This  pile  is  2  or  300  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  30  feet 
at  top.  The  stones  are  quarried  about  five  miles  off, 
brought  in  very  large  blocks,  and  placed,  by  means  of 
machinery,  in  the  position  desired.  The  cost  of  this 
undertaking,  which  is  the  business  of  government,  is 
usually  estimated  at  a  million  sterling ;  but  one  of  the 
best  engineers  in  the  country,  told  me  it  might  more 
properly  be  stated  at  £1200,000.  About  200  men  are 
constantly  employed  upon  it,  and  such  is  their  expe- 
dition, that  22,000  tons  of  stone,  have  been  removed 
to  the  spot  in  one  fortnight.  The  appropriation,  by 
government,  to  this  object,  is  60  or  £80,000  a  year. 
We  ascended  the  top  of  this  pile,  by  regular  steps, 
and  walked  upon  a  broad  and  smooth  surface  to  a 
considerable  distance.  The  whole  mass  is  of  lime- 
stone, and  although  no  cement  is  used,  it  is  believed 
it  will  become  sufficiently  solid,  by  the  penetration  of 
small  shell  fish  into  the  cavities.  Its  effects  upon  the 
water  were  very  obvious.  The  bay,  on  the  side  of  our 
approach,  was  calm ;  while  on  the  other  side,  the  sea 
was  raging  boisterously. 

It  costs  the  British  government  a  vast  sum  of  money, 
annually,  to  prevent  smuggling ;  and  yet  great  num- 
bers, both  on  the  English  and  Irish  coast,  depend  up- 
on it  for  a  livelihood.     The  crime,  it  would  seem,  does 


212  DEVONSHIRE- 

not  consist  so  much  in  the  commission  of  a  clandestine 
act,  as  in  bein^  caught  at  it ;  for  I  was  informed,  that 
a  noble  Admiral,  now  in  high  favour,  when  he  was 
simply  Sir  *.  ******,  and  commander  of  a  frigate, 
once  sent  on  shore  in  the  night,  on  his  arrival  from  the 
East  Indies,  twenty-seven  boat  loads  of  valuables. 
The  last  boat,  and  only  the  last,  was  seized,  and  this 
happened  to  contain  some  things  which  he  had  pro- 
mised to  get  on  shore,  if  he  could,  for  some  of  the 
young  officers  in  India,  as  presents  to  their  sisters,  &c. 
It  is  not  very  uncommon  either,  as  I  was  credibly  in- 
formed, when  a  revenue  cutter  approaches  a  ship  in 
the  evening,  to  invite  the  captain  on  board  of  the  ship, 
take  him  into  the  cabin,  and  by  dint  of  kindness,  and 
excellent  liquor,  to  put  him  hors  de  combat^  for  the  night. 
The  sailors  of  the  cutter  can  then  be  managed  in  a 
certain  way,  and  the  business  of  "  watering  the  ship^'' 
settled  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  regular  trader, 

26th.  I  took  a  seat  in  the  Balloon  Coach  for  Exeter. 
We  passed  through  Ridgeway,  and  Ivey  Bridge,  and 
diverging  from  the  road  along  which  I  had  before 
travelled,  stopped  at  Ashburton  to  dine.  This  is  said 
to  be  one  of  the  neatest  towns  in  Devonshire.  The 
river  Dart,  runs  within  a  few  miles  of  the  town  ;  and 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles  from  the  road,  is 
Dartmoor  Prison,  of  so  much  celebrity  as  a  place  of 
strong  confinement  for  prisoners  of  war.  The  moor,  or 
waste  land,  called  Dartmoor  forest,  comprises  up- 
wards of  80,000  acres.  It  affords  only  a  scanty  pas- 
turage for  a  few  thousand  sheep  and  cattle.  Efforts 
are  making,  in  some  places,  to  bring  this  barren  into 
cultivation.  Considerable  quantities  of  peat,  for  fuel, 
are  obtained  from  different  tracts  of  this  moor. 


EXETER.  213 

Exeter.  Being  joined,  soon  after  my  arrival  here, 
by  my  former  obliging  cicerone,  we  employed  the 
time  industriously  in  walking,  and  viewing  some  of  the 
exterior  attractions  of  this  ancient  city.  Some  parts 
of  it  are  delightfully  pleasant.  A  high  hill,  called 
JVorih-Hay^  covered  with  majestic  trees,  and  quite 
within  the  town,  aflfbrds  a  beautiful  promenade  and 
retreat  in  warm  weather,  and  is  quite  a  romantic 
place,  on  account  of  its  height,  the  steepness  of  the 
hill,  and  the  walks  along  its  declivity. 

On  visiting  the  house  of  *.  *****,  a  gentleman  who 
resides  a  short  distance  from  the  town,  I  was  invited 
with  so  much  kindness  to  remain  with  them,  as  to  in- 
duce me  to  accept  their  hospitality.  We  had  before 
met  each  other  in  London. 

27th.  We  rode  this  morning  to  a  mine  of  manga- 
nese, about  three  miles  distant,  and  examined  the 
manner  of  working  the  ore.  The  process,  which  is 
very  simple,  is  performed  by  common  labourers,  a 
number  of  whom  are  women.  The  ore  is  assorted  by 
the  hand;  washed,  sifted,  and  reduced  by  pounding,  to 
different  degrees  of  fineness,  according  to  the  purpose 
intended.  The  neighbourhood  of  Exeter  affords  large 
quantities  of  this  mineral,  which,  from  its  more  exten- 
sive use  in  manufactories,  has  so  much  increased  in 
value,  that  the  workmen  are  now  going  over  the  for- 
mer rubbish  of  the  mine,  and  selecting  portions  which 
were  before  rejected.  Returning  to  town,  we  visited 
the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Institution.  A  very 
good  building  has  been  provided,  one  apartment  of 
which  contains  a  handsome  library.  Another  is  fitted 
for  a  lecture  room ;  but  not  much  has  yet  been  done 
to  communicate  instruction  in  that  way.     A  found  a* 

Vol.  I.  18 


2  1 4  EXETER. 

(ion  is  laid  for  a  cabinet  of  minerals,  and  a  few  cu- 
riosities have  been  collected,  by  way  of  museum.  An 
excellent  reading  room  is  also  included. 

We  proceeded  thence  to  the  hospital,  and  went 
through  the  different  wards,  under  the  guidance  of  a 
clergyman,  who  was  one  of  the  managers.  This  hos- 
pital has  been  in  operation  71  years.  It  contains  ac- 
commodations for  140  patients,  and  is  generally  full. 
Great  attention  is  paid  in  this  house  to  bathing;  and 
for  the  greater  convenience  of  using  water  freely, 
there  is  a  well  in  the  cellar,  with  a  forcing  pump  in 
the  basement  story,  by  which  water  is  easily  driven 
through  pipes  into  reservoirs  fixed  in  the  upper  rooms. 
This  kind  of  accommodation,  which,  in  warm  weather 
at  least,  may  be  considered  as  a  domestic  luxury,  I 
have  found  to  be  rather  common  in  gentlemen's  houses. 
In  a  small  recess,  in  the  entry  or  hall  of  the  first  floor, 
and  sometimes  in  each  of  the  principal  chambers,  or 
perhaps  in  a  passage  into  which  the  chambers  open, 
a  basin  is  fixed,  in  masonry,  with  an  opening  in  the 
bottom,  closed  by  a  cork  or  other  stopper,  and  over 
the  basin  a  stop-cock.  By  the  side  of  the  basin  hangs 
a  towel.  By  turning  the  cock  fresh  water  runs  into 
the  basin,  and  by  taking  out  the  stopper  the  soiled 
water  runs  away.  The  forcing  pump  below,  which 
drives  the  water  into  the  upper  apartments,  can  easily 
be  worked  by  one  person. 

After  dinner  we  visited  the  asylum  for  the  insane. 
The  house,  not  having  been  erected  for  the  purpose, 
is  rather  inconvenient.  The  gardens  are  spacious,  and 
contain  a  fine  variety  of  fruit  and  vegetables.  The 
number  of  patients  is  between  40  and  50,  and  the  ex- 
penses of  their  maintenance,  upon  an  average,  is  1 9^. 


EXETER.  215 

per  week.  The  shower  bath  is  used  to  coerce  the 
refractory ;  and  one  of  the  means  taken  to  rouse  the 
melancholy,  is  to  put  them  in  an  arm  chair,  which,  by 
machinery,  is  made  to  revolve  round  its  axis  with  an 
easy  motion. 

Exeter  does  not  contain  many  persons  of  distinction 
in  literature.  Dr.  Lempriere,  the  author  of  the  Clas- 
sical Dictionary,  is  the  head  teacher  of  its  principal 
Grammar  school ;  and  L.  Carpenter,  one  of  the  au- 
thors of  a  late  work  on  education,  and  the  writer  ol 
the  essays  on  moral  and  physical  education  in  Rees' 
Cyclopoedia,  lately  resided  in  this  town. 

Exeter  is  a  very  ancient  city.  Its  early  history  is 
involved  in  all  the  mystery  of  remote  tradition.  It  has 
been  the  seat  of  many  severe  conflicts,  especially  be- 
tween the  Danes  an^*  Britons.  It  was  surrounded  by  a 
wall  at  a  very  early  period,  a  considerable  proportion 
of  which  is  still  remaining,  within  the  present  town; 
as  are  also  some  relics  of  Rougemont  Castle,  once  the 
seat  of  the  West  Saxon  kings.  There  are  here  ten  esta- 
blishments for  the  education  of  the  poor,  and  a  great 
number  of  charitable  societies.  Poverty,  however,  is 
by  no  means  banished  from  the  town.  "  Both  in  bar- 
barous and  more  civilized  times  (says  a  short  and  spi- 
rited account  of  the  city,  which  my  friend  and  guide 
drew  up  at  my  request)  Exeter  appears  to  have  fur- 
nished her  share  of  eminent  persons  ;  and  can  show 
a  copious  list  of  the  swift  and  the  strong,  the  brave  and 
the  learned,  the  sage  and  the  beautiful.  Among  these 
is  Sir  Walter  Raleigh.  It  is  at  present  chiefly  known 
for  its  toryism,  its  bigotry,  its  intolerance,  its  gaiety, 
its  dissipation,  and  its  infidelity ;  for  its  politeness,  the 


216  DEVONSHIRE. 

beauty  of  its  women,  its  numerous  charities,  and  its 
liberality  to  the  distressed  at  home  and  abroad. 

28th.  After  an  early  breakfast,  I  left  Exeter,  in  the 
subscription  coach,  for  Salisbury. 

In  leaving  the  counties  of  Cornwall  and  Devon,  I 
cannot  but  acknowledge,  that  the  state  of  society,  upon 
the  whole,  in  those  counties,  appeared  to  me  as  de- 
sirable, and  as  favourable  to  human  nature,  as  in  any 
considerable  district  of  country  1  have  ever  visited. 
There  is  rather  an  unusual  degree  of  intelligence, 
among  the  middle  ranks.  The  climate  is,  in  general, 
very  mild,  which,  in  connexion  with  the  moisture  of  the 
atmosphere,  greatly  favours  that  clearness  and  trans- 
parency of  the  skin  so  commonly  observed.  The  agri- 
culture of  this  part  of  England,  as  far  as  1  could  judge, 
by  passing  rapidly  through  it,  i«  not  superior  to  that 
of  the  middle  states  of  America.  The  plough,  in  com- 
mon use,  is  extremely  heavy,  requiring  four  horses  to 
move  it  with  facility ;  at  least  that  number  was  mostly 
employed  in  the  instances  which  I  observed. 

Devonshire  is,  perhaps,  more  famous  for  its  cider 
than  any  other  county  in  England.  But  the  very  best 
that  I  tasted  would  be  considered  as  inferior  to  that 
which  we  call  tolerably  good  in  the  United  States.  It 
is  harsh,  and  ill  tasted. 

Honiton,  sixteen  miles  from  Exeter,  is  a  pleasant 
and  ancient  town,  consisting  of  one  long  street.  It 
is  said  the  jSrst  manufactory  of  serges  in  Devonshire, 
was  established  in  this  place.  Ilchester,  a  town  on 
our  road,  is  the  place  which  gave  birth  to  Roger  Ba- 
con, in  1214,  and  to  Elizabeth  Singer,  afterward  Eli- 
zabeth Rowe,  author  of  the  Letters  from  the  Dead  to 


FONTHILL.  217 

the  Living.  Shortly  after  passing  through  Mere,  an 
ill  built  and  uncomfortable  looking  place,  we  came  in 
sight  of  Fonthill,  the  celebrated  seat  of  VV.  Beckford, 
Esq.  This  seat  is  admitted  to  be  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable abodes  of  wealth  and  grandeur  in  the  whole 
kingdom.  It  occupies  an  eminence,  which  overlooks 
the  adjacent  country,  and,  at  a  distance,  appears  like 
a  forest,  out  of  which,  and  near  the  summit,  rises  a 
tower,  called  Fonthill  Abbey,  which  the  uninformed 
traveller  would  take  to  be  a  noble  Gothic  church, 
but  which  is,  in  reality,  a  part  of  the  extraordinary 
mansion  of  its  possessor.  The  grounds  of  Fonthill  are 
enclosed  by  a  stone  wall  and  chevaux  de  frize  of  seven 
miles  in  circumference.  The  space  within  this  enclo- 
sure is  said  to  exhibit  the  most  astonishing  variety  of 
all  that  is  grand,  picturesque,  and  beautiful  in  nature 
and  art.  In  the  bottom  of  the  wood  is  a  fine  pellucid 
lake,  in  some  parts  of  great  depth,  stretching  and 
meandering  so  as  to  give  an  idea  of  greater  magnitude 
than  it  possesses.  This  lake  is  plentifully  supplied 
with  wild  fowl.  Every  animal  sports  undisturbed ;  and 
conscious  of  security,  the  hares  will  feed  at  the  horse's 
feet,  from  the  hands  of  the  rider,  and  frequently  asso- 
ciate in  great  numbers  within  a  few  paces  of  the  win- 
dows. In  one  part  of  the  enclosure  is  an  American 
plantation,  containing  the  woods  and  shrubs  peculiar 
to  that  quarter  of  the  globe.  The  Abbey  is  supplied 
with  water,  forced  through  pipes  by  a  wheel  24  feet 
in  diameter,  which  is  put  in  motion  by  a  stream,  con- 
ducted from  the  lake,  through  a  wooden  trough.  At 
another  place  is  a  spacC,  surrounded  by  a  light  iron 
fence,  which  is  called  the  Chinese  garden,  particularly 
appropriated  to  the  culture  of  the  rarest  flowers.    The 

18* 


218  FONTHILL. 

kitchen  garden  contains  eight  or  nine  acres,  and  is* 
screened  on  the  northern  side  by  a  wood  of  lofty  pines. 

The  abbey  is  described  as  being  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  magnificent  structures  in  the  kingdom.  The 
great  tower  is  270  feet  in  height.  The  doors  of  the 
hall  are  thirty-five  feet  high  and  highly  ornamented. 
The  hinges  of  these  doors  weigh  more  than  a  ton; 
and  yet  they  are  so  exactly  poised,  that  the  valves 
can  be  put  in  motion  with  the  slightest  effort.  The 
architecture,  the  statuary,  the  paintings,  the  tapestry, 
and  the  furniture  of  this  mansion,  all  conspire  to 
render  it  one  of  the  most  wonderful  specimens  of 
skill,  of  expense,  and  of  folly,  which  the  island  of 
Great  Britain  can  produce.  Of  folly,  because,  not- 
withstanding the  curiosity  which  the  building  of  it 
excited  in  the  country  around,  the  proprietor  has 
chosen  to  keep  it  entirely  concealed  from  the  public  ; 
and  according  to  report,  he  lives  a  solitary  and  a  de- 
praved life ;  taking  no  pains  to  secure  the  esteem  of 
his  neighbours,  and  being  despised  by  most  of  them. 
The  grandfather  of  the  present  owner,  was  considered 
as  the  richest  subject  in  Europe. 

We  passed  through  Hindon  near  Fonthill,  and 
Wilton  once  celebrated  for  its  manufactory  of  car- 
pets, and  arrived  in  the  evening  at  Salisbury.  The 
ride,  during  the  greater  part  of  this  day,  has  been 
highly  pleasant;  the  company  which  I  met  in  the 
coach,  were  very  civil,  and  some  of  them  well  in- 
formed and  agreeable  men.  It  has  been  the  longest 
day's  ride  (ninety-six  miles)  1  have  ever  had  on  the 
top  of  a  coach,  and  from  this  trial  of  it,  I  think  it 
decidedly  preferable  in  good  weather,  to  an  inside 
seat.     The  coach  stopped  at  the  Antelope  inn,  which 


SALISBURY,  219 

I  tound  to  be  a  good  house.  This  is  the  day  of  the 
Salisbury  races,  which  were  held  a  few  miles  off; 
and  a  great  deal  of  company,  male  and  female,  ap- 
peared to  be  preparing  for  the  scene  of  merriment 
and  dissipation.  The  town  of  Salisbury  has  been  laid 
out  with  much  greater  regularity  than  most  of  the  Eng- 
lish towns  which  I  have  seen.  There  is  a  small  canal 
or  ditch,  on  one  side  of  almost  every  street,  through 
which  runs  a  rapid  stream  of  fine  clear  water.  The 
names  of  streets  as  well  as  of  persons,  in  strange  pla- 
ces, are  not  altogether  uninteresting  to  a  traveller.  In 
this  town  I  saw  the  termination  of  Endless  street ;  and 
found,  that  if  I  were  so  disposed,  I  could  lay  out  not 
a  little  of  my  cash  in  Penny-farthing  street.  A  name 
which  appeared  to  me  very  appropriate  to  the  man's 
profession,  and  written  in  very  conspicuous  charac- 
ters on  his  sign,  was  "Cheater,  Dealer  in  Foreign 
Spirits.''"' 

The  Cathedral  of  this  town  is  one  of  the  most  ad- 
mired in  the  kingdom.  Its  exterior  accords  better 
with  my  notions  of  taste  and  beauty  than  any  of  the 
ancient  buildings  of  this  kind  I  have  hitherto  seen. 
Although  it  was  finished  in  the  year  1 258,  it  is  in  ex- 
cellent preservation.  The  spire,  it  is  supposed,  was 
newly  erected  in  1423,  and  the  lapse  of  five  centuries 
seems  to  have  made  but  little  change  in  its  exterior 
workmanship.  The  outside  is  decorated  with  much 
carving,  but  so  much  simplicity  prevails  in  the 
style  of  it,  as  to  add  greatly  to  its  elegance.  The 
length  of  the  cathedral,  from  east  to  west,  is  478  ieei, 
including  the  choir,  and  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
cross  aisle,  210  feet.  The  top  of  the  spire  is  410 
feet  from  the  ground,  being  nearly  seventy  feet  higher 


220  SALISBURY. 

than  St.  Paul's  in  London,  and  double  the  height  ol 
the  Monument.  A  singularity  in  the  internal  arrange- 
ment of  the  cathedral,  is  expressed  in  the  following 
lines  by  Rogers,  author  of  the  Pleasures  of  Memory. 

As  many  windows  you  may  here  behold, 
As  days  in  the  revolving  year  are  told. 
Compute  the  hours  that  one  full  jear  compose, 
As  many  marble  shafts  these  walls  inclose  ; 
Nor  numbers  Phoebus  in  his  annual  round, 
More  months  than  doors  within  this  fabric  found. 

The  space  surrounding  the  cathedral  was  formerly 
a  grave  yard,  filled  with  tomb-stones,  and  enclosed  by 
a  ditch.  The  tomb-stones  have  been  removed,  or 
levelled,  the  ditch  filled  up,  and  the  space  converted 
into  a  beautiful  green  lawn,  by  the  direction  of  one 
of  the  bishops. 

The  interior  contains  a  number  of  paintings,  some 
©f  which  are  on  glass.  Two  of  the  large  windows 
are  finely  ornamented  in  this  way,  one  of  which  is 
twenty-three  feet  in  height,  and  the  other  twenty-one, 
by  seventeen  and  a  half  feet  wide.  The  monuments 
are  numerous,  both  ancient  and  modern,  and  many  of 
them  are  admitted  to  be  good  specimens  of  sculpture. 
Among  the  most  remarkable  is  one  of  Bennet,  a  per- 
son who  attempted,  from  religious  enthusiasm,  to  fast 
forty  days  and  nights.  In  this  attempt  he  persisted 
until  he  perished.  A  sculptured  figure  of  a  man, 
emaciated  almost  to  a  skeleton,  is  placed  over  his 
tomb.  Harris,  the  author  of  "  Hermes,"  was  born  in 
this  town.  His  monument,  by  Bacon,  is  perhaps  the 
finest  in  the  cathedral.  The  classical  conception 
and  execution  of  the  whole  piece,  challenges  the 
liveliest  admiration.     I  ascended  to  the  top  of  the 


SALISBURY,  221 

Slower,  whence  a  view  was  obtained  of  the  whole  town 
and  neighbourhood.  The  height  of  this  steeple  is  so 
great  as  to  be  visible  at  the  distance  of  eighteen 
miles  a  fact  which  was  verified  in  our  approach  to 
Salisbury. 

The  plains,  so  much  celebrated  in  this  part  of 
Wiltshire,  as  the  resort  of  shepherds  with  their  flocks, 
were  not  directly  in  our  road ;  but  the  vast  flocks  of 
sheep  which  we  saw  on  the  downs,  over  which  we 
did  pass,  gave  me  an  extencled  idea  of  the  pastoral 
life.  Salisbury  contains  between  8  and  9000  inha- 
bitants. It  is  noted  for  the  manufactory  of  cutlery 
and  steel  goods. 

Notwithstanding  that  the  celebrated  piece  of  anti- 
quity, called  Stonehenge,  is  but  seven  miles  from  Sa- 
lisbury, yet  as  it  lay  directly  away  from  my  road,  and 
has  been  often  and  accurately  delineated  and  de= 
scribed,  particularly  in  the  valuable  journal  of  my 
friend  Professor  Silliman,  I  concluded  to  leave  it  un- 
seen, and  to  proceed  immediately  to  Southampton. 

About  three  miles  from  Salisbury,  we  passed  Cla- 
rendon Park  and  House,  which  in  1603  gave  the  title 
of  Earl  to  the  famous  Edward  Hyde,  whose  two 
granddaughters  sat  upon  the  English  throne.  The 
road  was  very  fine.  Men  and  women  were  busy  at 
the  harvest.  We  changed  horses  at  Romsey,  a  plea- 
sant town  surrounded  by  beautiful  meadows.  There 
is  an  ancient  abbey  in  this  place,  in  the  church  of 
which  several  of  the  Saxon  kings  were  buried.  This 
church  yet  remains  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of 
Saxon  architecture.  An  apple  tree  was  growing, 
some  years  ago,  on  the  top  of  its  tower,  which  pro- 
duced two  ditferent  kinds  of  fruit,  red-streaks  and 


222  SOUTHAMPTON. 

golden  pippins.  The  tree  probably  sprang  from  a 
seed,  which  accidentally  lodged  in  a  crevice  of  the 
wall. 

We  arrived  at  Southampton  before  night,  twenty- 
four  miles  from  Salisbury.  The  best  inn  in  the  place 
being  entirely  full,  I  went  to  the  Commercial  Inn,  and 
as  in  former  cases,  took  my  station  in  the  traveller's 
room;  a  particular  apartment,  which,  in  most  inns  in 
England,  is  appropriated  to  that  class  of  commercial 
agents  'who  are  almost  constantly  on  the  road,  in 
the  course  of  conversation  with  these  people,  I  have 
frequently  been  asked  how  I  found  business,  and 
whether  the  times  were  not  rather  difficult  for  col- 
lectors. Upon  informing  my  company  this  evening, 
that  I  was  not  an  EngHsh  traveller,  but  an  American, 
they  expressed  the  greatest  surprise ;  one  of  the 
company  asserted,  that  if  I  had  not  -undeceived  him, 
he  should  have  been  willing  to  declare  that  he  had 
met  me  before  as  a  traveller,  and  that  my  face  was 
familiar  to  him.  It  is  thus  that  I  have  been  able, 
when  I  pleased,  to  pass  for  an  Englishman ;  and  as  to 
being  taken  for  a  traveller,  I  consider  it  no  discredit, 
for  most  of  these  men  dress  like  gentlemen,  and  some 
of  them  possess  much  literary  as  well  as  commercial 
information.  The  travellers'  room  is  furnished  at  a 
little  more  than  half  the  price  which  those  who  have 
separate  apartments  are  obliged  to  pay,  and  their 
table,  moreover,  is  generally  better  served  ;  because 
they  know  what  good  living  is,  and  the  landlord 
knows  well,  that  it  is  his  interest  to  oblige  them. 


ISLE  OF  WIGHT.  223 

LETTER    X. 

Brighton^  8th  months  i'^^g-)  6»  1818. 

My  dear  *****, 

Southampton  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  bay  about 
a  mile  wide,  and  fifteen  miles  from  the  sound  which 
separates  the  Isle  of  Wight  from  the  main  island.  The 
town  is  supposed  to  have  arisen  out  of  the  ruins  of  a 
Roman  settlement.  It  was  here  that  Canute,  the  Da- 
nish invader,  obtained  the  British  sceptre ;  and  it  was 
on  the  shore  of  this  bay  that  he  taught  the  memorable 
lesson  of  humility  to  his  flatterers,  by  commanding 
the  waves  not  to  approach  his  feet.  The  town  con- 
tains about  10,000  inhabitants ;  but  the  number  is 
greatly  increased  during  the  summer  months,  by 
visiters  from  the  interior,  on  account  of  health  and 
bathing.  The  town  itself  is  pleasant,  and  the  envi- 
rons particularly  agreeable. 

At  10  I  embarked  in  the  packet  for  Cowes,  in  the 
Isle  of  Wight,  distant  eighteen  miles.  The  wind  was 
favourable,  and  the  morning  delightful.  The  borders 
of  the  river  are  ornamented  by  diligent  cultivation, 
while  the  seats  of  wealthy  individuals  occur  at  inter- 
vals, and  give  variety  and  interest  to  the  passage. 
But  there  was  one  object  on  the  shore,  which  pecu- 
liarly claimed  our  attention,  as  we  passed  along.  I 
mean  the  ruins  of  Netley  Abbey.  The  foundation  of 
this  abbey  is  ascribed  to  Henry  III.,  in  1232.  It  has 
long  been  a  heap  of  ruins,  covered  vnth  ivy,  and  em- 
bosomed in  woods,  but  they  are  so  picturesque  and 
interesting,  as  to  have  frequently  furnished  a  theme 


224  ISLE  OF  WIGHT. 

for  poetical  description,  and  moral  precept.  Super- 
stition has  lent  its  wizard  powers  to  embellish  the 
history  of  these  ruins,  and  to  give  a  sort  of  sanctity  to 
the  spot.  One  of  the  purchasers,  it  is  reported,  had 
his  skull  fractured,  in  attempting  to  take  down  part 
of  the  wall,  of  which  melancholy  consequence  his  wife 
had  been  forewarned  by  a  dream,  of  which  her  in- 
credulous husband  was  too  regardless  !  We  could  not 
obtain  a  good  view  of  the  abbey  from  the  river,  but 
the  ruins  of  Netley  Castle,  built  by  Henry  VIII.,  were 
very  conspicuous  on  the  water  edge,  immediately  be- 
low the  Abbey. 

We  landed  at  Cowes,  after  a  passage  of  an  hour 
and  thirty-five  minutes.  This  is  a  small  town,  built 
on  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  having  a  pleasant  appear- 
ance from  the  water ;  but  on  landing,  the  principal 
street  was  narrow,  and  very  uninviting.  I  proceeded 
immediately  to  Newport,  the  capital  of  the  Island,  five 
miles  from  Cowes.  The  harvest  was  less  advanced 
here,  than  in  Devonshire  and  Cornwall.  The  vege- 
tation of  the  Island,  has  been  almost  destroyed  by 
drought.  Newport  is  a  town  of  6000  inhabitants,  on 
a  small  river,  navigable  for  large  boats.  It  is  pleasant- 
ly situated,  and  much  more  regular  than  common 
country  towns.  Very  extensive  barracks,  newly  and 
handsomely  built,  near  the  town,  have  an  imposing 
effect  upon  the  eye.  The  tricks  of  mountebanks,  and 
other  allurements  more  licentious,  were  evidently  not 
wanting,  even  in  tlbis  insulated  town ;  but  as  far  as  my 
observations  extended,  I  have  reason  to  conclude, 
that  there  is,  upon  the  whole,  less  depravity  of  the 
grosser  kind  here,  than  in  any  other  town  in  England, 
of  equal  size,  which  I  have  visited. 


ISLE    OP    WIGHT.  225 

31.  Having  engaged  a  gig,  and  a  boy  to  drive  it,  I 
left  the  Sun  Tavern,  where  I  was  well  accommodated, 
to  make  the  southern  and  eastern  tour  of  the  Island, 
along  the  sea  coast.  On  my  right,  about  a  mile  from 
Newport,  I  passed  Carisbrook  Castle,  situated  on  a 
very  commanding  eminence.  This  Castle  is  remark- 
able for  its  immemorial  antiquity,  and  for  its  having 
been  the  prison  of  Charles  I.,  and  the  place  where  his 
family  was  confined,  after  his  execution.  The  Princess 
Elizabeth,  his  second  daughter,  died  in  this  Castle. 

The  Isle  of  Wight,  on  the  side  next  the  sea,  exhi- 
bits a  great  deal  of  the  picturesque  and  romantic  in 
natural  scenery.  A  rocky  bluff,  in  some  places  700 
or  1000  feet  above  the  tide  mark,  and  consisting  of 
perpendicular  strata  of  green  sandstone  and  chert 
rests  on  a  stratum  of  blue  marie.  By  the  action  of 
the  land  springs  on  this  latter  stratum,  the  marie  be- 
comes of  the  consistence  of  mud.  runs  out,  and  leaves 
the  sandstone  without  support,  which,  being  deprived 
of  its  foundation,  tumbles  down.  In  this  way  are 
produced  those  sudden  and  violent  movements  of  the 
hill  towards  the  sea,  which  are  called  land  slips,  and 
which,  by  a  slow  and  irregular  progress,  have  produ- 
ced an  immense  ruin, in  various  places,  on  the  southern 
coast,  forming  the  most  striking  feature  of  the  Isle  of 
Wight.  So  extensive  has  been  the  decay  of  this 
rocky  base,  there  is  now  a  space  of  half  a  mile  be- 
tween the  perpendicular  bluffy  and  the  sea  below ;  e 
space  remarkable  for  the  fantastic  irregularities  of  it.< 
surface ;  variegated,  as  it  is,  by  rocks  and  woods,  cot- 
tages and  fields,  and  all  the  luxury  of  cultivation.  A 
ride  over  this  singular  region,  constitutes  the  princi- 
pal attraction  of  visiters  to  this  Island, 

Vol.  L  1  9 


226  ISLE    OF    WIGHT. 

These  land  slips  are  ascribed,  by  the  author  of 
"  Vectiana,"  to  the  expansion  of  subterraneous  water 
during  congelation,  thus  "  forcing  the  rocks  in  a  loose 
soapy  soil,  from  their  position,  on  a  declivity,  and 
leaving  them  to  find  a  settlement  nearer  the  sea." 
But  I  think  it  very  questionable,  whether  the  cold  is 
ever  sufficiently  intense,  on  this  southern  shore,  to 
freeze  the  water  to  any  considerable  distance  below 
the  surface.  The  theory  which  ascribes  the  pheno- 
mena, to  the  gradual  influence  of  subterranean  streams, 
percolating  through  a  loose  substratum,  appears  to 
me  much  the  most  philosophical. 

We  entered  upon  this  singular  tract,  just  below 
iViton,  a  village  of  about  300  inhabitants.  It  consists 
of  two  irregular  streets,  of  thatched  cottages,  the 
walls  being  of  freestone. 

St.  Lawrence,  a  small  parish  through  which  we 
passed,  contains  only  76  inhabitants.  The  church, 
which  stands  by  the  road,  is  acknowledged  to  be  the 
smallest  in  England ,*its  dimensions  being  not  more 
than  20  feet  in  length,  and  1 2  in  breadth.  A  person 
in  the  yard,  who  appeared  to  be  the  sexton,  told  me 
it  would  not  accommodate  more  than  ninety  persons, 
with  any  convenience.  I  could  not  but  contrast  thi«* 
number,  with  the  10,000  whom  I  had  recently  seen 
assembled  in  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  in  London. 

Among  the  cottages,  and  summer  residences  of 
gentlemen,  which  adorn  this  romantic  road,  is  one  be- 
longing to  Earl  Dysart.  It  is  a  plain,  but  neat  and 
comfortable  little  mansion.  The  rooms  are  hung 
with  pictures,  and  the  grounds  around  the  cottage, 
can  hardly  be  better  described,  than  by  imagining  a 
small   farm,    to  consist,    like   a  house,   of   several 


ISLE    OF    WIGHT.  227 

stories,  one  over  another,  each  receding  from  the  per- 
pendicular, and  the  whole  suspended  between  the 
level  surface  of  the  ocean,  and  the  summit  of  a  high 
and  abrupt  hill  in  the  rear.  The  prospect,  from  va- 
rious points  of  these  romantic  grounds,  is  singularly 
fine.  Arbours  and  seats  are  erected  in  situations  the 
most  favourable  for  viewing  the  variegated  prospect  of 
sea  and  land ;  of  gardens,  groves,  and  water  falls  ;  the 
wildness  of  nature,  and  the  exquisite  culture  of  art. 
The  furniture  and  rooms  of  the  cottage,  were  kept  in 
ihe  nicest  order,  though  I  was  informed  by  the  inmates, 
that  the  Earl  had  not  occupied  it  for  a  long  time  past. 

I  dined  at  Shanklin,  a  very  pleasant  village,  near 
which  is  a  deep  cavity,  produced  by  the  constant 
rushing  of  a  stream  of  water,  from  the  upland  to  the 
sea.  I  was  amply  repaid  for  descending  to  the  bottom 
of  this  cavity,  and  viewing,  from  the  sea  shore,  the 
high  and  abrupt  bluff,  which  borders  it  in  this  place. 

About  two  miles  beyond  "  Steep  Hill,''''  the  name  of 
the  seat  last  mentioned,  is  the  parish  of  St.  Boniface, 
the  church  of  which  is  of  Saxon  antiquity.  The  en- 
trance to  it  is  through  a  perfect  Saxon  arch. 

The  town  of  Brading  has  about  500  inhabitants. 
The  church  here  is  supposed  to  be  the  oldest  in  the 
Island.  The  following  epitaph,  on  a  stone  in  the 
yard,  must  be  admired  by  every  one,  for  the  beauty 
of  its  composition. 

Forg^ive,  blest  shade,  the  tributary  tear, 
That  mourns  thy  exit  from  a  world  like  this  : 
Forgive  the  wish  that  would  have  kept  thee  here, 
And  stay'd  thy  progress  to  the  seats  of  bliss. 
No  more  confin'd  to  grov'ling  scenes  of  night, 
No  more  a  tenant  pent  in  mortal  clay ; 
Now  should  we  rather  hail  thy  glorious  flight, 
And  trace  thy  journey  to  the  realms  of  day. 


228  PORTSMOUTH. 

My  excursion  on  the  Island  terminated  at  Ryde,  a 
pleasant  and  newly  built  town,  opposite  to  Ports- 
mouth., from  which  it  is  distant  about  five  miles.  A 
favourable  wind  took  us  across  in  about  thirty-five 
minutes.  A  letter  to  the  collector  of  the  customs, 
procured  me  a  very  polite  reception,  from  him  and  his 
family,  with  whom  f  took  tea,  and  spent  the  evening. 
He  is  a  man  of  acknowledged  ingenuity  in  mechanics, 
his  talents  having  placed  him  at  the  head  of  an  impor- 
tant canal  concern,  designed  to  benefit  the  town  of 
Portsmouth.  His  knowledge  of  the  principles  of 
sound,  was  exhibited  rather  curiously  in  his  common 
sitting  room.  A  tube,  opening  by  an  ear-piece,  into 
the  room,  by  the  side  of  the  fire-place,  passed  through 
the  partition  into  the  kitchen,  and  terminated  at  the 
ceiling.  By  speaking  in  a  low  voice,  in  the  mouth  of 
this  tube,  orders  were  easil}'  given  to  the  servants; 
and  by  applying  an  ear  to  the  tube,  the  common  con- 
versation of  the  kitchen  could  be  understood. 

8th  month.  1st.  The  town  of  Portsmouth  is  very 
strongly  fortified.  The  Battery,  or  side  next  the  sea, 
presents  an  agreeable  promenade;  Gosport,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  harbour,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  and 
the  ocean,  being  compreherided  in  the  perspective. 
The  population  is  about  50,000,  and  that  of  Gosport, 
nearly  10,000. 

The  son  of  the  collector  called  this  morning  to 
conduct  me  to  the  Dock- Yard,  his  father  having  en- 
gaged the  attention  of  one  of  the  officers  of  the  yard, 
in  favour  of  my  admission.  1  was  also  provided  with 
a  letter  from  London,  to  another  of  the  officers. 
Thus  favourably  introduced,  I  spent  several  hours  in 
viewing  the  very  extensive  and  ingenious  operations, 


PORTSMOUTH.  229 

here  carried  on.  The  Dock  Yard  contains  1 10  acres, 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and  strongly  defended  on 
the  land  side.  Within  these  limits,  almost  every  opera- 
tion, connected  with  ship  building,  is  conducted  with 
a  surprising  degree  of  energy  and  perfection.  About 
2500  men  are  corsstantly  employed,  and  in  time  of  war 
3000.  Six  dry  docks  are  included,  in  each  of  which 
vessels  of  the  largest  size,  can  be  built  under  cover; 
and,  when  finished,  the  w  ater  is  let  in,  they  float,  and 
are  towed  into  the  stream.  The  main  canal,  or  open- 
ing into  the  yard,  instead  of  being  closed  by  gates,  is 
shut  and  opened  in  an  extremely  ingenious  manner, 
by  means  of  a  boat,  constructed  on  purpose.  This 
boat  is  placed  transversely,  in  the  opening  of  the  ca- 
nal, and  having  a  strait  keel,  and  perpendicular 
ends,  she  moves  up  and  down  in  grooves,  in  the  walls 
of  the  canal,  and  the  keel  fits  a  groove,  adjusted  to  the 
bottom.  When  this  boat  is  empty,  it  swims,  and  can 
then  be  loosened  and  moved  out  of  the  way.  When 
brought  back,  it  is  filled  with  water,  and  then  it  sinks 
to  the  bottom,  and  stops  the  passage. 

The  bottom  of  the  dry  docks,  is  about  fourteen  feet 
below  low  water  mark  ;  and  as  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  prevent  leakage  from  the  gates,  a  steam  engine  is 
employed  to  keep  them  dry.  Two  engines  are  used 
in  the  yard,  one  of  the  power  of  56,  and  the  other  of 
.30  horses.  Either  of  them  is  sufficient,  not  only  to 
keep  the  docks  empty,  but  to  drive  the  block-making 
machinery,  the  rollers  and  presses  for  making  sheet 
copper,  and  sheet  iron,  bolts,  blowing  the  bellows  for 
the  furnace,  &c. 

But  by  far  the  most  ingenious  part  of  the  machinery 
in  the  yard,  is  that  by  which  the  blocks  are  manufac- 

19  * 


230 


PORTSMOUTH, 


tured.  This  is  the  invention  of  Brunei,  a  Frenchman, 
whose  surprising  talent,  in  practical  mechanics,  has 
been  patronised  by  the  British  government,  and  great- 
ly to  its  advantage.  Such  is  the  nature  of  the  block 
machinery,  that  the  saws,  the  augers,  the  chisels,  the 
planes,  the  gouges,  the  polishing  tools,  in  short  all  the 
instruments  by  which  a  large  beam,  or  tree,  of  ash  or 
other  wood,  a  hard  stick  of  lignumvitae,  and  a  rough 
bolt  of  iron,  are  converted  into  a  block  and  pulley, 
move  by  steam,  and  with  such  velocity  and  precision, 
that  it  is  believed,  this  single  manufactory,  might  sup- 
ply the  whole  world  with  blocks,  and  at  a  cheaper 
rate  than  they  can  be  made  any  where  else. 

The  saws  are  mostly  circular.  That  which  is  used 
for  dividing  a  stock  or  tree  of  lignumvita?,  into  flat 
sections  for  the  wheels  or  pulleys  of  the  block,  is 
surprisingly  ingenious,  in  its  adjustment  and  move- 
ment. The  saw  is  placed  horizontally  in  an  up- 
right iron  frame ;  which  frame  itself,  has  a  circu- 
lar movement  round  a  vertical  axis.  To  this  axis 
or  centre,  a  stick  of  lignumvitae,  cut  from  the  natural 
stock,  of  two  and  a  half  feet  in  length,  (a  little  more 
or  less,)  is  firmly  fixed,  and  is  raised  or  lowered  by  a 
ratchet,  so  as  to  place  that  spot  precisely  against  the 
saw,  which  will  enable  it  to  take  off  a  piece  of  the 
requisite  thickness.  The  saw,  revolving  with  extreme 
rapidity,  is  then  pressed  against  the  Avood  by  a  hand 
lever,  and  at  the  same  time,  by  the  slow  revolution  oi" 
its  frame,  it  moves  round  the  stick  and  cuts  into  it  in 
every  part  of  its  circumference.  By  this  means  the 
saw  will  cut  through  a  tree  of  nearly  twice  its  own 
radius,  and  separate  from  it  a  section  perfectly  flat, 
and  of  the  same  thickness  in  all  its  parts.     Trees  or 


PORTSMOUTH.  231 

stocks  of  different  thickness,  can  be  adjusted  to  the 
same  saw,  by  the  varying  grasp  of  the  clamp  or  chuck 
which  holds  it. 

The  saw  which  cuts  out  the  pulley  to  a  true  circle, 
is  shaped  like  a  surgeon's  trephine,  or  the  crown 
wheel  of  a  watch.  They  all  move  with  extreme 
velocity.  I  was  witness  to  the  motion  of  a  plank, 
about  eighteen  feet  in  length,  by  which  it  passed 
under  a  saw  and  had  a  slit  cut  half  way  through  it, 
from  end  to  end,  in  ten  seconds.  A  necessary  part 
of  the  operation,  is  to  turn  the  blocks  in  a  sort  of 
lathe,  so  as  to  give  them  the  requisite  oval  shape  and 
smooth  surface.  For  this  purpose,  ten  oblong  blocks, 
having  the  corners  roughly  sawed  off,  are  rapidly 
adjusted  to  the  hollow  circumference  of  a  large  wheel, 
which  being  put  into  geer,  the  blocks  move  round 
very  swiftly,  and  are  brought  at  pleasure  against  a 
tool,  which,  pressed  by  the  hand,  moves  at  discretion 
round  the  corner  and  sides  of  the  blocks,  and  turns 
them  down,  with  the  utmost  precision,  to  the  form  re- 
quired. 

Copper  and  iron  are  taken  from  the  pig  in  this  fac- 
tory, melted,  recast,  and  rolled  into  sheets.  Bolts 
are  also  fashioned  by  the  roller,  both  of  copper  and 
iron.  I  observed  that  when  the  sheets  of  copper 
come  from  the  rolling  press,  they  are  covered  with  a 
hard  coat  of  oxide.  To  get  clear  of  this,  they  are 
heated  again  to  redness,  and  then  plunged  into  water. 
This  increases  so  rapidly  the  coat  of  oxide,  as  to 
loosen  it  from  the  plate.  It  is  then  simply  rinsed  off, 
leaving  a  bright  metallic  surface.  The  oxide  of  cop- 
per thus  collected,  is  afterward  reduced  in  the  furnace. 
The  apartment  in  which  anchors  are  forged,  is  vastly 


232  PORTSMOUTH. 

extensive,  and  so  highly  charfred  with  smoke,  fire, 
steam,  and  noise,  a^  forcibly  to  remind  one  of  the  fa- 
bled caves  of  the  Cyt-lops.  Many  of  the  anchors  which 
are  wronght  here,  weigh  from  70  to  90  cwt.  each. 

I  left  this  yard,  (certainly  the  most  gigantic  manu- 
factory which  sin  and  death  have  ever  erected,)  with 
more  exalted  opinions  of  the  intellectual  power  of 
man,  and  more  hiunilinting  sentiments  of  the  depra- 
vity of  his  nature.  If  the  same  reach  of  intellect, 
the  same  persevering  application  of  talent,  the  same 
national  zeal, and  a  hundredth  part  of  the  expenditure, 
were  employed  in  devices  for  preventing  war,  saving 
life,  and  promoting  the  comfort  and  happiness  of  na- 
tions ;  how  very  few  years  would  elapse  before  the 
face  of  the  whole  habitable  globe  would  be  changed, 
and  the  general  aspect  of  human  affairs  be  radically 
and  substantially  improved.  Is  it  folly  to  think  that 
the  time  may  arrive,  when  national  strength  will  be 
directed  to  this  grand  object,  to  the  exclusion  of  war- 
like preparation  ?  And  is  it  presumption  to  believe, 
that  through  the  combined  efforts  of  good  men,  under 
the  blessing  of  Providence,  this  benign  change  in  the 
feelings  and  enjoyments  of  mankind,  will  in  time  be 
eflfected  ? 

Convinced  from  my  own  observations,  and  from  the 
information  I  received,  that  the  state  of  public  morals 
in  the  town  of  Portsmouth  and  its  neighbourhood,  is 
none  the  better  for  its  being  the  key  of  England, 
and  the  great  depot  of  its  naval  concerns ;  I  left  it  in 
the  coach  for  Chichester,  where  I  arrived  in  the  even- 
ing. The  country  through  vvhich  we  passed  is  fertile, 
the  grain  large,  in  good  condition,  and  rapidly  yield- 
ing to  the  sickle.     Gleaners  are  seen  in  almost  ever) 


CHICHESTER.  233 

field  from  which  the  grain  has  been  gathered.  In  one 
field,  probablj  of  ten  or  twelve  acres,  I  counted  thirty- 
five  gleaners.  This  indicates  poverty  far  greater  than 
any  that  afflicts  our  poor.  The  country  is  generally 
flat,  between  Portsmouth  and  Chichester;  the  upper 
stratum  is  of  chalk.  I  availed  myself  of  a  remnant 
of  daylight  to  walk  through  the  town ;  and  finding 
the  church  open,  I  entered  it,  and  was  guided  by  the 
sexton  through  its  aisles  and  among  its  tombs.  The 
most  interesting  of  th*^  monuments,  is  that  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Collins  the  poet,  executed  by  Flaxman. 
The  workmanship  is  exquisite,  representing  the  poet 
recovering  from  a  fit  of  phrensy,  and  seeking  refuge 
from  his  misfortunes  in  the  consolations  of  the  Gos- 
pel. The  epitaph,  it  is  said,  is  the  joint  produc- 
tion of  Hayley  and  Sargent.  Collins  was  a  native 
of  this  town.  This  church  contains  a  great  number 
of  paintings. 

In  the  centre  of  the  principal  street  is  a  remarka- 
bly fine  Gothic  cross,  erected  in  1478.  Chichester  is 
a  city  of  ancient  standing.  Its  plan  is  regular  and  its 
situation  pleasant.  A  considerable  portion  of  the 
wall  which  formerly  surrounded  it  still  remains. 

The  charities  of  this  town  are  highly  creditable  to 
the  judgment  and  humanity  of  its  citizens.  The  daugh- 
ter of  a  female  friend,  at  whose  house  I  met  with  a 
reception  which  forbade  my  seeking  other  quarters, 
in  conversing  on  the  state  of  their  public  schools, 
evinced  the  lively  interest  which  she  takes  in  the 
concerns  of  the  poor,  especially  in  relation  to  their 
children.  She  showed  me  a  considerable  library  of 
books,  adapted  to  the  understandings  of  young  people, 
which  she  kept  to  loan  out  to  such  as  wished  to  read. 


234  BRIGHTON. 

She  also  receives  from  them  their  little  earnings,  (not 
disdaining  even  a  farthing,)  which,  when  they  amount 
to  a  certain  sum,  she  puts  in  the  Savings  Bank,  where 
they  draw  an  interest.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  es- 
timate the  benefit  which  may  thus  be  done,  even  by 
an  individual,  in  giving  to  the  children  of  the  lower 
classes  correct  notions  of  economy  and  industry,  and 
some  taste  for  books  of  an  instructive  tendency. 

In  passing  from  Chichester  to  Brighton,  we  dined  at 
Arundel,  a  town  of  nearly  25,000  inhabitants,  situated 
on  the  river  Arun.  There  is  a  famous  castle  near 
this  town,  which  was  once  considered  as  the  strongest 
in  the  kingdom.  Worthing  is  a  considerable  place, 
very  recently  built,  immediately  on  the  sea  coast.  The 
houses  are  large,  and  handsome,  having  been  erected 
chiefly  on  speculation,  with  a  view  to  the  profits  ari- 
sing from  visiters  who  frequent  the  coast,  for  purposes 
of  health  and  pleasure. 

Dr.  F.,my  fellow  passenger  from  New-York  to  Liver- 
pool, and  *.  *.  ****,  of  Philadelphia,  had  agreed  to  join 
me  at  Brighton,  whence  we  were  to  proceed  to  Paris. 
In  w^aiting  a  few  days  for  their  arrival  from  London,  I 
experienced  the  greatest  hospitality  from  *.  ********^ 
a  friend,  of  that  place.  A  very  short  time  is  sufficient 
to  see  all  that  is  particularly  worth  notice  in  Brighton, 
or  Brighthelmston,  as  it  is  written  on  the  maps.  It 
contains  about  eighteen  thousand  inhabitants,  but  this 
number  is  increased  nearly  one  half,  at  particular 
seasons,  by  the  influx  of  visiters  from  all  parts  of  the 
kingdom,  but  more  especially  from  London.  Many 
of  these  are  doubtless  invalids,  but  the  greater  num- 
ber come  merely  to  pass  away  their  time,  or  because 
it  is  a  place  of  gayety  and  fashion.     Visiters  resort 


BRIGHTON,  235 

here  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  the  air  being  consi- 
dered as  very  salubrious,  and  the  water  excellent. 
The  greatest  number,  however,  are  here  during  the 
summer  and  autumn.  Besides  sea  bathing,  ample  pro- 
vision is  made  for  cold,  tepid,  and  warm  baths,  and 
also  for  steam  and  medicated  vapour  baths.  A  cus- 
tom has  been  introduced,  which  1  never  before  heard 
of.  It  is  called  Shampooin^^  and  is  said  to  be  derived 
from  India.  To  render  it  more  imposing,  the  opera- 
tion is  superintended  by  a  person  called  Mahomed. 
Whether  the  practice  was  introduced  by  some  real 
believer  in  the  Koran,  who  came  to  England  for  this 
purpose,  or  by  some  crafty  adventurer,  who  assumed 
the  name,  I  know  not.  The  process  of  shampooing,  to  be 
agreeable  and  effectual,  must  be  performed  by  people 
regularly  trained  to  it.  They  are  called  Shampoomen. 
After  the  body  of  the  patient  has  been  thoroughly 
suppled  by  the  seawater  vapour  bath,  the  Shampooers 
squeeze  the  flesh  and  muscles  with  their  hands  from 
the  extremities  to  the  centre,  and  conclude  by  rub- 
bing the  skin  briskly,  which  removes  obstructions  from 
the  pores,  and  renders  the  skin  as  soft  and  smooth  as 
satin.  So  highly  is  this  new  practice  extolled,  that 
one  of  the  notices  which  I  have  seen  of  it,  states, "  that 
it  may  fairly  be  alleged,  that  the  universal  remedy,  as 
a  panacea,  has  at  length  been  discovered  !" 

A  great  proportion  of  the  houses  are  built,  and 
handsomely  furnished  for  the  purpose  of  being  let  out 
by  the  week  or  month.  The  shore  is  not  very  favour- 
able to  bathing,  the  position,  in  my  opinion,  being 
very  inferior  either  to  Long  Branch  or  Rockaway,  in 
the  vicinity  of  New-York.  The  bathers  are  taken 
into  the  sea  in  a  small  dressing-house,  drawn,  or  rather 


236  BRIGHTON. 

pushed  by  a  horse.     From  this  house  they  descend, 
by  wooden  steps,  into  the  water. 

The  channel  is  too  narrow  to  admit  of  a  fine  re- 
freshing surf,  and  the  water  deepens  so  gradually  as 
to  afford  no  good  accommodations  at  low  tide.  The 
shore,  a  bold,  chalky  blu(f,  is  also  so  high  and  steep, 
from  the  bank  on  wliich  the  town  stands,  to  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  as  to  make  it  a  formidable  task  for  invalids 
to  descend  and  ascend. 

The  houses  are  very  commonly  constructed  with 
arched  fronts  and  bow  windows.  The  material  is  either 
brick  or  flint.  The  latter  substance  is  procured  from 
the  chalk  beds  in  great  quantities,  in  rounded  nodules, 
of  the  size  of  a  large  potatoe.  When  broken  in  two. 
the  fracture  is  smooth  and  glossy,  and  being  placed  in 
front  of  the  houses,  sometimes  alone,  but  more  fre- 
quently alternated  with  rows  of  bricks,  they  give  to 
the  fronts  an  appearance  very  peculiar,  and  by  no 
means  unhandsome.  A  particular  sort  of  tile  is  also 
used  here,  which,  when  applied  to  a  rough  wall,  fur- 
nishes a  better  front  than  common  bricks,  and  at  the 
same  time  excludes  more  effectually  the  moisture  of 
the  atmosphere.  These  tiles  are  used  also  as  a  facing 
to  wooden  houses.  They  are  so  shaped  as  to  be  easily 
attached  to  each  other,  and  to  the  wall,  by  nails  and 
a  little  mortar,  and  they  give  to  the  wall  exactly  the 
appearance  of  neat  bricks.  1  cannot  but  think  that 
ihey  are  worthy  of  adoption  in  other  places. 

It  has  become  much  the  fashion  in  Brighton,  as  well 
as  in  other  parts  of  England,  to  use  asses  (or  donkeys. 
as  they  are  called)  as  a  substitute  for  horses,  both  un- 
der the  saddle  and  for  draught.  Two  or  three  of  these 
diminutive  creatures  are  harnessed  to  a  chaise  or  gig 


BRIGHTON.  23t 

with  very  low  wheels,  and  driven  by  a  boy,  who  gene- 
rally rides  as  postillion.  They  answer  a  valuable 
purpose.  It  costs  but  little  to  keep  them,  and  they 
endure  labour,  and  even  rough  usage,  with  a  strength 
and  vigour  disproportionate  to  their  size.  They  are 
much  employed  by  females  and  young  riders  of  both 
sexes,  being  more  easily  mounted,  and  less  dangerous 
than  horses.  They  might,  I  should  think,  be  advan- 
tageously introduced  into  the  United  States. 

Very  few  trees  are  to  be  seen  in  Brighton,  or  in  its 
immediate  neighbourhood,  in  consequence  of  the 
chalky  stratum  on  which  it  is  built.  This  is  a  defi- 
ciency which  art  cannot  well  supply.  The  Prince 
Regent  has  a  house  here,  in  the  centre  of  the  town^ 
called  the  Pavilion.  Its  architecture  is  extremely 
whimsical,  if  not  ridiculous,  having  more  the  appear- 
ance of  a  Turkish  mosque,  than  of  a  Christian  habita* 
tion.  It  has  been  undergoing  almost  constant  altera- 
tions during  the  last  20  years,  and  is  not  yet  completed 
to  the  satisfaction  of  its  Royal  owner.     But 

"  Great  princes  have  great  playthings," 

and  the  pavilion  has  probably  answered  the  purpose 
of  a  useful  hobby  to  his  Royal  Highness. 

A  packet  leaves  Brighton  almost  every  day  for 
Dieppe,  in  France.  As  there  is  no  quay  or  dock^ 
approachable  even  by  sloops,  the  embarkation  is  very 
inconvenient,  and  in  rough  weather  it  must  be  ex* 
tremely  uncomfortable,  if  not  dangerous. 


Vol.  I,  20 


1^8 


PASSAGE  TO  DIEPPE. 


LETTER    XL 


Paris,  9th  month  (^Septem.)  6th,  1818, 

My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

Being  joined  by  my  American  friends,  and  having 
obtained  our  clearances  for  France,  and  furnished 
ourselves  with  sufficient  viaticum,  even  for  a  protract- 
ed passage,  we  took  leave  of  those  whose  kind  atten- 
tions to  us  claimed  our  hearty  acknowledgments ;  and 
at  8  P.M.  on  the  Gth  ultimo,  we  were  transported  on  men'e 
shoulders  to  an  open  boat  in  the  sea,  and  conveyed  to 
the  packet,  a  sloop  of  about  eighty  tons  ;  in  which  we 
found  about  forty  others,  bound,  like  ourselves,  to 
France.  In  this  company  were  Alderman  Wood,  M.  P. 
late  Lord  Mayor  of  London,  his  wife,  and  two  daugh- 
ters.    At  9  we  set  sail  with  a  fine  breeze. 

8th  month,  7th.  A  mat  on  the  cabin  fioor  served  seve- 
ral of  us  as  a  bed,  on  which  I  slept  well,  although  the 
violent  tossing  of  our  little  bark,  entirely  destroyed  the 
comfort  and  rest  of  many  of  our  fellow  passengers.  At 
6  A.  M.  the  chalky  elevations  of  the  French  coast,  and 
the  steeples  of  Dieppe,  were  in  view.  The  shore 
here,  as  well  as  Brighton,  can  be  approached  at  cer- 
tain times  of  the  tide,  only  in  small  boats.  At  eight 
we  were  boarded  by  a  large  French  barge,  and  taken 
out  of  the  packet  with  our  baggage,  the  tide  not  serv- 
ing for  the  sloop  to  advance  up  a  small  creek  to  the 
wharf.  On  our  approaching  the  shore,  we  found  the 
surf  too  high  for  even  the  barge  to  land ;  on  which 


DIEPPE.  239 

account  it  was  necessary  to  procure  a  smaller  boat 
to  convey  us  to  the  shore.  A  number  of  people  were 
collected  to  see  us  debark,  among  whom  we  disco- 
vered several  gens-d'armes,  or  armed  soldiers.  The 
loud  and  continued  jabber  of  the  French  sailors,  and 
the  bustle  of  the  people  on  shore,  soon  convinced  us 
that  we  were  in  a  different  country  and  among  a  dif- 
ferent nation,  from  those  we  had  left. 

After  landing,  our  passports  were  taken  possession 
of  by  the  soldiers,  and  we  ourselves  escorted,  «  la  mi' 
litaire^  to  the  custom  house.  We  were  there  sepa- 
rately examined,  first  by  feeling  our  pockets,  and  in 
some  cases,  obliging  us  to  exhibit  their  contents ;  then 
by  unbuttoning  our  waistcoats,  to  ascertain  whether 
we  had  not  increased  our  bulk  by  some  precious  arti- 
cle or  other,  contraband  of  trade.  After  tickling  our 
skin  a  little,  this  farcical  business  was  finished,  by  al- 
lowing us  to  button  up  and  go  where  we  pleased. 
But  I  ought  not  to  omit  to  state,  that  one  of  the  first 
objects  which  presented  itself  to  our  notice  on  land- 
ing, was  a  crucifix,  or  image  of  our  Saviour  as  large 
as  life,  nailed  to  the  cross.  This  is  erected  near  the 
dock,  for  the  dne  notice  of  seamen  and  strangers. 

We  put  up  at  the  "•  Regent's  Hotel,"  kept  by  an 
Englishman;  the  waiter  also  speaking  English  per- 
fectly. Here  we  took  our  breakfasts,  very  much  in 
the  English  style  We  were  in  hopes  of  being  able 
to  pursue  our  journey  immediately,  but  were  told 
that  neither  our  passports  nor  our  baggage,  (which 
was  all  to  be  examined  in  our  presence,)  would  be 
ready  till  afternoon,  and  then  the  diligence  for  Rouen 
would  be  gone.  Thus  circumstanced,  we  had  leisure 
to  walk  through  the  town. 


240  DIEPPE. 

Dieppe  is  situated  in  a  valley  between  high  hills, 
precipitous  next  the  sea,  and  composed  of  white 
chalk,  inclosing  flints,  exactly  similar  to  the  formation 
of  the  opposite  shore  in  England.  The  town  contains 
about  20,000  inhabitants ;  but  we  could  not  avoid  re- 
marking the  great  excess  of  women,  in  point  of  num- 
bers. The  streets  swarm  with  females,  a  large  pro- 
portion of  whom  are  miserable  objects,  covered  with 
rags  and  dirt,  and  many  of  them  sturdy  beggars. 
England  far  exceeds  America,  in  the  number  of  beg- 
gars one  meets  with  in  every  town ;  but  in  Dieppe, 
England  is  quite  outdone  in  the  race  of  mendicity. 
In  short,  this  debut  of  France  gives  one  a  very  unfa- 
vourable idea  of  the  comforts  of  the  French.  It  is 
true,  the  word  comfort  has  no  equivalent  term  in  the 
French  language ;  and  an  American  or  Englishman 
would  conclude,  from  Dieppe  alone,  that  the  enjoy- 
ment of  it  was  equally  foreign  to  their  practice.  The 
houses  are  very  high,  and  have  a  clumsy  and  inele- 
gant appearance.  The  town  is  finely  supplied  with 
water,  which  is  brought  in  pipes  trom  the  hills.  It 
spouts  in  constant  streams  in  various  places  in  the 
streets.  A  very  large  dock  for  shipping,  was  begun  by 
Bonaparte,  which,  having  been  suspended  during  the 
commotions,  is  now  again  in  a  state  of  advancement. 
On  going  into  a  large  church,  apparently  very  old, 
we  found  a  number  of  people  assembled  in  it  at  mass. 
The  churches  are  kept  open,  for  this  purpose,  nearly 
the  whole  day.  Two  large  candles  were  burning,  and 
a  marble  basin  of  consecrated  water  is  kept  near  the 
door.  This  religion,  i  have  no  doubt,  is  wonderfully 
calculated  to  gain  upon  the  credulity  and  confidence 
of  the  lower  classes. 


DIEPPE.  241 

The  dress  of  the  women  in  Normandy,  it  is  said, 
has  not  varied  during  the  last  century.  Its  most  re- 
markable characteristic  is  the  cap.  When  the  head 
is  newly  dressed  the  cap  is  very  white,  plaited  with 
great  care,  and  extends  at  least  a  foot  in  height  from 
the  forepart,  and  about  two  feet  behind  the  head. 

Having  occasion  to  go  into  the  shop  of  a  barber  to 
get  shaved,  this  office  was  performed  upon  all  of  us 
hy  his  daughter,  a  neat  little  girl  of  fifteen,  and  we 
could  not  but  acknowledge,  that  she  handled  the  ra- 
zor with  much  dexterity. 

On  one  side  of  the  town  is  a  large  and  strong  cas- 
tle upon  an  eminence,  which  overFooks  nearly  all  the 
other  buildings.  Our  American  passports  were  taken 
from  us  and  sent  to  Paris,  and  another  granted  us  by 
the  mayor  of  Dieppe. 

8th.  We  hired  a  carriage  with  four  horses,  to  con- 
vey us  to  Rouen,  distant  thirty-nine  miles,  for  which 
we  were  to  pay  sixty  francs  ;  and  leaving  Dieppe  at 
six,  we  had  an  extremely  pleasant  ride,  through  a  va- 
ried and  fertile  country,  in  which  the  wheat  was  as 
large  and  fine  as  I  have  ever  seen  it  at  home,  through- 
out a  district  of  equal  extent.  We  were  here,  as  well 
as  in  England,  in  the  midst  of  wheat  harvest.  The 
greater  number  of  labourers  in  the  field  was  women. 
They  were  reaping,  binding,  and  loading  the  wheat. 
We  met  them  driving  carts,  loaded  asses,  going  to 
market  with  burthens,  and  indeed,  it  would  seem  as 
if  Ceres  were  bestowing  her  favours,  almost  exclu- 
sively, upon  the  females  of  the  country.  Their  com- 
plexions indicate  as  much  of  the  exposure  and  hardi- 
hood of  out-door  labour,  as  those  of  the  men.  The 
fields,  in  this  part  of  France,  are  entirely  without 

20  * 


242  ROUEN. 

fences,  even  on  the  public  road.  Cattle  and  sheepj 
at  pasture,  are  strictly  guarded ;  cows,  when  taken  to 
graze,  have  a  rope  tied  round  the  horns,  and  a  girl  or 
boy  holds  one  end  to  guide  them. 

We  stopped  at  Toste,  a  small  village,  to  breakfast, 
where  we  were  joined  by  Alderman  Wood  and  fa- 
mily, who  were  travelling  in  their  own  carriage  to 
Paris.  The  Inn  was  very  large,  but  destitute  of  that 
appearance  which  we  call  tidy  and  comfortable. 
The  road  between  Toste  and  Rouen,  extends  along 
the  side  of  a  hill,  beneath  which  is  a  beautiful  valley, 
through  which  flows  the  river  Cailly,  which  empties 
into  the  Seine.  This  valley  is  very  populous,  con- 
taiuing  a  great  number  of  manufactories,  of  ditferent 
kinds;  particularly  of  cotton  and  paper. 

We  arrived  at  the  borders  of  the  Seine,  a  few  miles 
below  Rouen.  The  road  is  here  lined  with  a  double 
row  of  trees.  Ropes  are  stretched  across  it,  from 
tree  to  tree,  and  lamps  are  suspended  in  the  centre, 
throwing  their  light  over  the  whole  area  of  the  road, 
which  is  at  least  double  the  ordinary  width  of  the 
roads  in  England. 

We  entered  Rouen  by  the  gate  of  Havre,  and  drove 
through  narrow  streets,  crowded  with  people  and 
large  wagons,  to  the  hotel  Vattel.  We  were  here  in- 
troduced, for  the  first  time,  into  an  inn  truly  French. 
One  of  the  servants  spoke  a  little  English,  and  w^as 
eager  to  show  us  that  he  understood  the  language. 
The  floors,  even  of  the  bed-rooms,  w  ere  of  brick,  or 
tile,  and  without  carpets.  The  beds  are  placed  in  a 
recess  in  the  chamber,  and  furnished  with  fine  cur- 
tains. Large  looking-glasses  are  found  in  every 
Toom ;  in  short,  the  mixture  of  splendour,  and  of  bad 


ROUEN.  243 

taste;    of  elegance,  and   the  absence  of  neatness, 
struck  us  very  forcibly. 

With  our  fellow  passengers  from  London,  who  are 
also  quartered  here,  we  walked  out  to  view  the  town. 
We  went  into  the  cathedral,  which  is  admitted,  I  be- 
lieve, to  be  one  of  the  noblest  piles  of  this  nature  in 
France.     It   was   built  by  William  the  Conqueror. 
The  Gothic  architecture  of  this  building,  the  statuary, 
and   the  paintings,  render  it  very  imposing.     It  was 
the  time  of  vespers.     Two  old  priests,  in  a  curious 
costume;  two  or  three  boys,  and  half  a  dozen  monk- 
ish looking  creatures,  were  chanting,  and  performing 
a  variety  of  marches  and  evolutions  to,  and  from,  and 
round  the   altar,   and  from  one  part  of  the  area  to 
another,  while  the  incense,  which  was  burned  upon 
some  coals  in  a  coarse  iron  pan,  filled  the  interior  of 
the  building  with   a  strong  and   rather  odoriferous 
smell      Without  the  pale  of  the  altar,  were  a  dozen 
or  twenty  poor  people,  most  of  whom  were  kneeling, 
and  each  looking  over  a  book.     There  were  others, 
in  remote  parts  of  the  church,  apparently  engaged  in 
some  religious  act  by  themselves.     We  left  them,  and 
proceeded  to  a  convent,  in  which  forty  or  fifty  girls 
are  educated,  in  strict  conformity  to  the  rites  and  ce- 
remonies of  the  Catholic  Church.     We  were  conduct- 
ed through  the  rooms  by  the  abbess  or  matron,  whose 
countenance  and  manners  indicated   great  compla- 
cency and    kindness,    but   evidently  mixed    with   a 
strong  attachment  to  the  principles  in  which  she  was 
educating   her  flock.      The  house  was  a  model  of 
cleanliness.     The  girls  have  each  a  room  and  bed, 
barely  large  enough  to  accommodate  her  comfortably. 
These  rooms  are  arranged  on  each  side  of  a  gallery, 


244  ROUEN. 

in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  wide  passage,  extending 
from  one  end  of  it  to  the  other.  The  greatest  atten- 
tion, \  apprehend,  is  paid  to  the  moral  habits  of  these 
children.  In  passing  through  the  chapel  of  the  con- 
vent, a  sweet  little  girl,  very  neatly  dressed,  courte- 
ously presented  a  plate,  and  solicited  a  contribution 
from  us,  for  the  sick  and  distressed.  In  the  chapel 
was  a  crucifix,  before  which  I  observed  the  child  to 
bow,  every  time  she  passed  it. 

We  dined  at  the  table  ffhote  of  our  inn,  in  the  true 
French  style.  Several  of  the  dishes  were  new  to  us; 
the  changes  were  numerous,  and  the  price  moderate. 
Upon  the  whole,  we  were  by  no  means  displeased 
with  our  first  essay  at  the  silver  fork  and  spoon,  in  the 
land  of  soups  and  fricasees.  The  company  at  the 
table  was  large,  and  composed  of  French,  English, 
and  Americans.  We  were  regaled,  during  the  repast, 
with  music,  by  a  female  performer,  on  a  hand  organ, 
who  placed  herself  before  the  door  for  this  purpose, 
expecting,  in  return,  a  (ew  voluntary  sous  from  each 
of  the  company. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  all  went  to  the  top  of  Mount 
St.  Catharine,  a  celebrated  eminence,  near  the  city. 
It  was  a  toilsome  ascent,  especially  to  our  lady  May- 
oress ;  but  though  we  had  often  to  stop  and  renew 
our  strength  by  a  little  fresh  breathing,  when  the  sum- 
mit was  once  gained,  we  were  amply  repaid  for  our 
exertion.  The  capital  of  Normandy,  with  its  tall 
spires,  its  compact  streets,  its  wall  of  defence,  and  its 
fine  boulevards,  lay  at  our  feet.  The  Seine,  embra- 
cing a  number  of  green  islands,  showed  its  meander- 
ings  to  a  great  distance.  Several  villages  were  in 
sight ;  and  a  wide  extent  of  country,  yellow  with  bar- 


ROUEN.  245 

vest,  filled  up  the  contour  of  this  delightful  prospect. 
The  streets  were  crowded  to  excess,  on  our  return, 
but  soldiers,  or  gens  d'armes,  were  every  where  ming- 
led with  the  population,  ready  to  take  notice  of  any 
impropriety,  and  to  bring  oifenders  speedily  to  jus- 
tice. To  judge  from  the  appearance  of  the  populace, 
we  should  have  supposed  that  a  very  large  proportion 
of  the  inhabitants,  must  be  at  a  loss  for  the  means  of 
subsistence.  Considerable  trade  appears  to  be  en- 
joyed here.  The  number  of  square-rigged  vessels 
and  the  bustle  along  the  wharves  bespeak  much  com- 
mercial activity. 

Rouen,  including  its  suburbs,  is  said  to  be  seven 
miles  in  circumference,  and  to  contain  73,00->  inhabi- 
tants. It  was  the  birth-place  of  Fontenelle,  of  the  two 
Corneilles,  and  of  Joan  of  \rc;  the  latter  was  inhu- 
manly burnt  here,  by  order  of  the  English  general,  in 
1430.  One  of  the  villages,  or  suburbs,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  is  connected  with  Rouen  by  a 
bridge  of  boats.  It  has  a  draw-bridge  in  the  centre, 
which,  when  raised,  admits  the  barge  underneath  to 
be  slipped  out,  and  thus  opens  a  free  passage  to  the 
vessels  employed  on  the  Seine. 

9th.  Having  engaged  seats  in  the  diligence,  we  left 
Rouen,  early  this  morning,  with  the  hope  of  reaching 
Paris  before  night.  To  have  a  correct  idea  of  a 
French  diligence,  you  may  imagine  four  strong  wheels, 
placed  at  such  a  distance,  as  to  admit  of  the  body  of 
a  coach  in  the  middle,  holding  six  persons,  three  on 
each  seat,  facing  each  other;  a  large  chaise,  with  a 
leathern  cover  and  apron  in  front,  placed  before  the 
coach ;  and  a  sort  of  Jersey  wagon,  holding  six  persons, 
on  two  seats,  riding  sideways,  and  facing  each  other, 


246  JOURNEY  TO  PARIS. 

adjoining  the  coach,  behind,  [f  these  three  vehi- 
cles are  supposed  to  be  united  into  one  body  with- 
out, yet  entirely  separate  as  it  regards  the  interior, 
a  tolerable  notion  will  be  gained  of  the  public  stages 
of  France.  The  front  vehicle  is  called  the  cabriolet, 
and  the  hinder  one  the  gallery.  The  former  is  con- 
sidered as  the  best  part  of  the  diligence,  for  it  admits 
of  the  most  open  view  of  the  country.  Through  the 
complaisance  of  a  French  girl,  who  yielded  her  place 
to  me  very  politely,  I  was  admitted  to  a  seat  in  the 
cabriolet,  while  two  of  my  companions  were  in  the 
gallery,  and  the  other  (Dr.  F.)  in  the  coach,  with  four 
or  five  French  women.  On  one  side  of  me,  in  the  ca- 
briolet, was  a  Frenchman,  and  on  the  other  a  Polish 
Jew,  with  a  long  beard.  The  road  was  excessively 
dusty.  We  passed  through  a  great  number  of  vil- 
lages, and  some  towns  of  considerable  extent.  The 
country  is  finely  variegated  on  this  route,  with  hills 
and  extensive  plains,  cultivated  with  diligence,  but 
apparently  with  less  skill  than  in  any  of  our  mid- 
dle states.  The  chalk  formation  appeared  to  reach 
through  the  whole  extent  of  this  day's  ride,  sometimes 
appearing  in  abrupt  and  broken  cliffs. 

About  midway  of  the  distance,  between  Rouen  and 
Paris,  the  crops  of  wheat  began  to  yield  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  vine,  and,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day, 
vineyards,  loaded  with  grapes,  appeared  in  great 
abundance.  The  vine  is  raised  in  rows,  about  three 
feet  asunder,  each  way.  it  grows  to  the  height  of  four 
or  five  feet,  bearing  grapes  from  within  a  few  inches 
of  the  surface,  and  supported  .by  a  stick  stuck  in  the 
ground,  to  which  it  is  tied.  As  this  was  the  first  day 
of  the  week,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the 


JODRNEY  TO  PARIS.  247 

manner  in  which  it  is  kept  b)^  the  French  ;  and  if  it  be 
fair  to  draw  conclusions,  from  as  close  an  observation 
as  it  is  possible  to  make,  by  passing  through  a  great 
number  of  towns  and  villages,  in  the  course  of  100 
miles,  i  should  saj,  that  it  is  considered   as  a  day  of 
pleasure.     Business  is   by  no  means  suspended,  for 
every  where  the  shops  were  open,  in  considerable 
numbers  ;  carts  and  horses  were  in  motion  as  usual ; 
labourers  were  at  work  in  the  fields  and  on  the  roads; 
but  the  majority  of  the  people  appeared  to  be  occu- 
pied, principally,  in  concerns  of  pleasure;  collected 
in  groupes,  at  the  doors,  under  the  trees,  and  about 
the  inns      We  crossed  the  Seine  several  times  in  the 
course  of  the   day.     The   principal  towns,  through 
which  we  rode,  were  Louviers,  Gaillon,  Vernon,  Bon- 
nieres.  Mantes,   (where    we   dined.)  Meulan,  Triel. 
St.  Germain-en-Laye,  and  Nanterre ;  some  of  them 
yery  considerable  places.     Hence  you  will  justly  in- 
fer, that  the  country,  on  this  route,  is  very  populous. 
The  horses  are  managed  entirely  by  a  postillion,  who 
rides  on  the  near  wheel  horse.     But  another  impor- 
tant personage  is  the  "  Condiwteur,''''  who  has  his  sta- 
tion either  in  the  gallery,  or  on  the  top  of  the  coach. 
He  is  captain  of  the  whole  concern ;  the  baggage  is 
under  his  care ;  the  postillion  is  at  his  command ;  he 
regulates  the  period  of  stopping ;  helps  the  passen- 
gers  out,  attends  to   their   meals,  aids   in    carving, 
&c.     The  whole  establishment  is  under  the  control 
of  the  government.     The  conducter  and  the  postil- 
lion are  officers,  amenable  to  the  police.     There  are, 
of  course,  much  more  regularity  and  decorum  in  the 
conduct  and  management  of  these  conveyances  than 
with  us,  where  the  stages  are  the  property  of  indivi- 


24B  JOURNEY  TO  PARIS. 

duals,  or  of  companips,  without  any  particular  respori' 
sibility.  The  horses  in  France,  at  least  between 
Dieppe  and  Paris,  are  in  general  better  than  those 
in  England.  They  do  not  travel  perhaps  quite  so  fast, 
but  they  are  in  better  condition. 

At  Marly,  ten  miles  from  Paris,  we  saw  the  immense 
works  that  were  erected  to  raise  water  for  the  supply 
of  Versailles.  Great  quantities  are,  it  is  true,  elevated 
to  the  uncommon  height  oi'  533  feet:  but  the  clumsi- 
ness of  the  machinery  is  past  description.  It  has  the 
appearance  of  a  forest  of  naked  timber.  Rennie,  the 
English  engineer,  offered  to  erect  steam  works  on  the 
Seine,  which  would  be  more  effective  in  their  opera- 
tion than  these  works  are,  for  no  other  reward  than 
the  timber  he  should  find  on  the  spot. 

The  preference  given  by  the  French,  to  Americans 
over  the  English,  is  manifested  on  almost  every  occa- 
sion which  presents  itself  for  showing  it.  One  of  the 
gens-d'armes,atDieppe,onfindingwe  were  Americans, 
said  to  me.  "  Ah !  bon,  bon  ;  les  Anglais  ne  sont  pas 
bons."  They  show  their  dislike  to  England  some- 
times rather  rudely.  "  Combien,  gar^on,"  said  \  to 
the  boy,  who  assisted  in  changing  the  horses,  at  St. 
Germain,  "Combien  d'ici  a  Paris  .'"'  Knowing  I  was 
not  a  Frenchman,  and  supposing  me  to  be  English,  he 
replied,  "  D'ici  a  Paris  ?  C'est  cent  lieux.  Monsieur 
Rosbify  The  Frenchman  by  my  side,  upon  learning 
that  I  was  an  American,  very  freely  indulged  himself,  in 
manifesting  his  attachment  to  Bonaparte,  by  extolling 
every  thing  he  had  done ;  and  venting  his  dislike  to 
the  English.  As  we  approached  Paris,  his  warmth 
encreased  ;  every  thing  beautiful  or  great  had  been 
rendered  so  by  the  Emperor.    In  passing  Malmaison, 


PARIS.  249 

lie  dwelt  upon  the  improvements  Napoleon  had  made 
there ;  and  when  we  entered  the  grand  Avenue,  to  the 
great  city,  lighted  with  lamps  suspended  from  the 
trees,  and  passed  the  Triumphal  Arch,  into  the  Ely- 
sian  fields,  the  poor  fellow  could  hardly  contain  him- 
self, so  great  was  his  ecstasy,  in  his  eager  desire  to 
point  out  every  thing  to  me  that  was  curious  and  in- 
teresting,  and  to  make  me  understand  how  much  was 
due  to  the  Emperor.  I  remarked  to  him,  at  length, 
that  Napoleon  had  produced  an  earthquake  in  Eu- 
rope, and  in  the  violence  of  the  concussion,  he  himself 
had  been  justled  to  St.  Helena.  His  countenance  fell, 
and  with  an  expression  of  deep  regret,  he  replied, 
"Ah!  Monsieur,  c'est  vrai !" 

The  entrance  of  Paris,  by  the  Avenue  de  Neuilly, 
and  the  Champs  Elysees,  especially  at  an  hour  when 
the  business  of  the  day  is  over,  can  hardly  fail  to  make 
a  dazzling  impression  on  the  mind  of  a  stranger,  let 
him  come  from  what  country  he  may.  We  entered 
the  city  just  as  daylight  was  beginning  to  yield  to  the 
splendour  of  the  lamps.  The  Avenue,  including  the 
Elysian  fields,  must  be  two  miles  long.  It  was  thronged 
with  carriages,  and  horsemen,  and  horsewomen,  and 
thousands  of  pedestrians,  all  bent  on  pleasure.  In  ma- 
ny places  they  were  formed  into  groupes,  dancing  to 
instruments  of  music.  The  gardens  were  illuminated^ 
and  sports  of  all  kinds  in  operation.  Such  was  the 
scene  presented  to  us,  on  our  arrival  in  this  great  me- 
tropolis, on  the  evening  of  the  Christian  Sabbath.  II 
the  question  had  been  asked  us,  at  this  moment , 
"What  kind  of  people  are  the  Parisians.'"'  we  should 
have  answered.  They  are  a  fiddling  and  dancing  peo- 
ple, caring  for  little  but  the  present  hour. 

Vol.  h  21 


250 


PARIS. 


We  alighted,  where  all  travellers  who  come  to  Paris 
by  the  public  conveyances  must  aliojht,  in  the  Grand 
Cour  des  Diligences.  Every  condudeur  is  obliged  to 
report  himself  and  his  charge  at  the  otfice  in  the 
great  yard,  and  due  notice  of  it  is  entered  on  the 
books.  We  proceeded  to  Meurice's  hotel,  Rue  St. 
Honore,  a  house  in  which  150  beds  are  made  up,  ex- 
clusive of  those  for  servants ;  yet  it  was  with  some 
difficulty  that  we  obtained  accommodations.  Alder- 
man Wood  and  family,  who  arrived  a  little  after  us^ 
were  obliged  to  seek  for  quarters  at  another  inn. 

10th.  In  consequence  of  a  lameness  in  my  knee, 
from  a  slight  injury,  I  did  not  go  out  to-day.  My 
friend  Dr.  P.  of  Philadelphia,  who  has  been  two  years 
in  Paris,  called  to  see  me.  He  administered  leeches 
to  the  swelled  part  of  the  knee,  which  afforded  efTec- 
tual  relief. 

11th.  My  first  sortie^  in  this  splendid  capital,  wa? 
in  a  visit  this  morning,  with  my  companions,  to  the 
palace  of  the  Louvre,  so  distinguished  as  the  great 
temple  of  the  fine  arts  in  France.  In  passing  through 
the  garden  of  the  Thuilleries,  my  eyes  were  com- 
pletely dazzled  with  the  lustre  of  a  brilliant  sun,  re- 
flected from  the  statues,  the  fountains,  the  gravelled 
walks,  and  various  other  elegancies  on  the  one  side ; 
and  the  marble  front  of  the  palace  on  the  other. 
Nothing  can  be  more  imposing  than  such  a  debut  in 
Paris.  On  entering  the  garden  from  the  side  of  St. 
Honore,  passing  through  it  to  Pont  Royal,  and  ascend- 
ing the  river  in  front  of  the  Louvre,  the  most  sumptu- 
ous and  elegant  parts  of  the  city,  burst  at  once  upon 
the  view.  And  if  such  an  entree  is  calculated  to  strike 
the  mind  with  astonishment,  an  admission  to  the  mu- 


PARIS.  251 

seum  of  the  Louvre,  will  not  diminish  the  impression. 
The  statues,  busts,  and  antiques,  are  in  various  apart- 
ments on  the  lower  floor;  and  the  paintings,  above. 
To  describe  them  would  require  a  volume.  The 
first  effect  is  astonishment,  at  the  freedom  of  the  ex- 
hibition. There  is  nothing  in  statuary  or  painting 
which  shocks  the  female  delicacy  of  the  French.  In 
this  respect,  the  English  go  much  further  than  we  do; 
but  in  France  this  freedom  is  pushed  to  greater 
lengths.  The  public  gardens  abound  with  statues, 
which,  in  America,  are  only  placed  behind  skreens  in 
our  exhibition  rooms.  The  most  highly  wrought  mo- 
dels of  the  Venus  de  Medicis,  serve  as  decorations 
in  some  of  the  coffee  rooms,  and  other  places  fre- 
quented by  both  sexes,  and  yet  the  dress  and  man- 
ners of  the  French  women,  are,  at  least  to  appearance, 
quite  as  decorous  as  those  of  England  or  America. 

From  this  simple  view  of  the  case,  it  might  be  at 
first  concluded,  that  the  style  of  manners  in  France, 
in  relation  to  those  denuded  exhibitions,  cannot  be 
unfriendly  to  public  morals ; — nor  have  there  been 
wanting  philosophers,  of  both  sexes,  who  have  con- 
tended, that  our  common  notions  of  decency  are  en- 
tirely artificial;  and  that  the  concealment  of  truth 
and  nature,  is  more  injurious  to  purity  of  sentiment 
and  feeling,  than  the  simple  and  undisguised  habits 
of  the  Pelew  or  Fejee  islands.  But  it  might  easily 
be  proved,  as  I  conceive,  by  a  reference  to  the  his- 
tory of  those  islanders  themselves,  that  in  proportion 
to  the  advancement  of  human  society  in  civilization, 
and  intellectual  refinement,  such  primitive  habits  are 
found  to  be  entirely  incompatible  with  the  preserva- 
tion of  public  and  private  virtue.     Nor  is  the  actual 


252  PARIS. 

state  of  morals  in  France,  any  evidence  to  the  con- 
trary ;  but,  as  I  believe,  greatly  the  reverse.  Tlieir 
own  records  publish  to  the  world,  that  one  third  ol 
the  births  in  the  city  of  Paris,  (amounting  to  upwards 
of  8000  annually,)  are  "  hors  de  marriage ;"  and  as 
to  conjugal  fidelity,  where  could  the  person  be  found 
who  would  have  the  courage  to  rank  this  among  the 
prominent  national  virtues  ? 

Fifteen  apartments,  including  the  vestibule  and 
corridor,  are  appropriated  to  the  antiquities  of  Egypt, 
Greece,  and  Rome  The  whole  number  of  figures, 
comprehended  in  the  printed  catalogue,  is  361.  It  is 
impossible  to  enter  these  halls,  at  least  for  the  first 
time,  without  experiencing  the  most  vivid  impression. 
The  sudden  display  of  so  much  elegance  and  splen- 
dour, rouses  the  feelings  to  a  pitch  unknown  before; 
and  the  admiration  which  is  thus  so  forcibly  excited, 
scarcely  loses  any  thing  of  its  intensity,  by  a  minute 
examination  of  the  various  objects  contained  in  this 
long  suite  of  apartments.  If  novelty  and  wonder  are 
the  first  emotions,  the  mingled  feelings  of  delight  and 
astonishment,  will  be  maintained  by  such  an  evidence 
of  sublime  conception,  and  exquisite  skill  in  execu- 
tion, as  the  greater  number  of  the  pieces  so  clearly 
proves. 

The  ascent  to  the  picture  galleries,  is  by  a  wide  and 
sumptuous  staircase.  The  number  of  apartments  is 
here  also  considerable.  In  the  one  which  adjoins  the 
antichamber,  the  pictures  are  mostly  very  large ;  but 
it  is  not  till  one  enters  the  grand  gallery,  that  the 
imagination  is  wrought  upon  to  the  highest  pitch,  and 
that  the  enthusiasm,  which  animates  every  Frenchman 
in  speaking  of  the  museum  of  the  Louvre,  can  be  duly 


PARIS.  253 

understood  and  appreciated.  You  may,  perhaps, 
form  some  idea  of  the  effect  upon  the  mind  of  a  per- 
son who  has  never  seen  a  very  large  collection  of 
pictures,  on  entering,  at  one  end,  an  apartment,  about 
thirty  feet  wide  and  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
length,  with  a  ceiling  beautifully  arched  and  divided 
into  ornamental  squares,  with  its  walls  entirely  filled 
from  one  extremity  to  the  other  with  the  finest  pic- 
tures; excepting,  that,  at  intervals,  elegant  marble 
pillars  are  erected  at  short  distances  from  the  walls, 
between  which  are  superb  mirrors,  that  reflect  the 
splendours  of  the  gallery  in  every  direction. 

Although  the  Louvre  has  been  shorn  of  much  of  its 
Imperial  glory,  by  the  just  retribution  of  plundered 
nations,  there  appears  no  deficiency  whatever,  to  the 
eye  of  a  spectator  to  whom  the  exhibition  is  new. 
The  catalogue  must  now,  indeed,  be  very  different 
from  what  it  was  when  the  choicest  pictures  and  sta- 
tues of  Rome,  Florence,  Venice,  and  Milan  ;  of  Brus- 
sels, Antwerp,  and  other  cities,  were  included  in  the 
collection.  But  France  possessed,  within  her  own 
domain,  enough  of  the  productions  of  the  fine  arts 
to  fill  up  the  blanks  by  judicious  selection ; — and 
though  some,  indeed  many,  of  the  paintings,  did  not 
strike  me  as  possessing  much  interest,  the  collection 
is  altogether  too  multifarious  and  splendid,  to  allow 
me  to  venture  upon  the  difficult  and  delicate  task  of 
description. 

The  Louvre  is  an  extensive  palace,  now  connected 
with  the  Thuilleries,  and  forming  on  the  side  of  the 
river  a  magnificent  line  of  buildings.  Opposite  to  its 
central  opening  on  the  side  of  the  Seine,  a  new  and 
beautiful  iron  bridge  has  been  thrown  across  the 

21  * 


254  PARIS. 

river,  expressly  for  the  accommodation  of  foot  passen- 
gers. It  is  the  only  bridge  in  that  part  of  the  city,  at 
which  a  toll  is  demanded.  As  this  bridge  connects  the 
Louvre  with  the  buildings  occupied  by  the  Royal 
Academy  of  Sciences,  it  is  called  the  "  Pont  des  Arts.^'' 
It  is  a  very  long  time  since  any  part  of  the  Louvre  has 
beeri  the  abode  of  royalty.  Napoleon  had  commen- 
ced, and  put  into  a  train  of  execulion^  such  extensive 
additions  and  alterations,  as  would  doubtless  have 
rendered  it  the  most  magnificent  palace  in  the  world ; 
and  that  the  fame  of  its  completion  might  be  connect- 
ed for  ever  with  his  own  name,  the  letter  N.,  in  large 
capitals,  has  been  inserted,  in  numerous  places,  in 
the  solid  masonry  of  the  front;  and  in  so  substantial 
a  manner,  as  to  defy  the  attempts,  hitherto  made, 
completely  to  obliterate  it. 

We  this  evening  witnessed  the  ascent  of  a  balloon, 
from  the  gardens  of  Tivoli.  The  manner  of  filling  it 
with  hydrogen  gas,  was  very  obvious.  Into  a  great 
number  of  casks,  containing  diluted  sulphuric  acid  and 
iron,  were  inserted  pipes,  which  terminated  in  the 
oeck  of  the  balloon.  Through  these  the  gas  escaped, 
and  gradually  inflated  it.  The  silk  being  completely 
expanded,  a  light  car,  shaped  like  the  body  of  a  small 
gig,  was  suspended  from  a  net  which  covered  the  bal- 
loon ;  and  when  all  was  ready  for  the  ascent,  the  in- 
trepid Madame  Blanchard  mounted  the  car,  standing 
upright  in  it,  holding  in  one  hand  a  white  flag,  and  in 
the  other  a  lighted  match.  The  cords  which  held 
the  balloon  to  the  ground  were  slackened,  and  she 
remained  suspended,  for  a  short  time,  just  above  the 
iieads  of  the  spectators,  waving  her  flag ;  then,  at  a 
signal  given,  the  cords  were  detached,  and,  still  stand- 


PARIS.  255 

ing  upright  in  her  car,  she  rose  with  a  movement 
which  combined  more  of  sublimity  and  graceiulness, 
than  any  thing  I  ever  beheld  within  the  compass  of 
human  art.  The  wind  blew  very  briskly.  When  she 
had  risen  fully  above  the  tops  of  the  trees,  she  applied 
her  match  to  the  fireworks,  and  in  a  moment  she  was 
enveloped  in  fire,  smoke,  and  thunder ;  but  at  such  a 
distance  below  her,  as  to  do  no  injury  to  her  frail  ve- 
hicle. These  fireworks  are  inflammable  mixtures, 
suspended  by  cords  from  the  balloon,  and  communi- 
cating by  tubes  with  each  other,  and  by  a  train  of 
powder  to  the  car.  The  effect  was  truly  wonderful. 
To  see  a  human  being,  and  that  too  a  delicate  female, 
suspended  in  the  air  to  a  ball,  and  scattering  around 
her  fire  and  thunder,  and  then  rising,  with  majestic 
grace,  into  the  upper  regions  af  the  atmosphere,  and 
sailing,  with  the  velocity  of  an  eagle,  cannot  fail  to 
produce  the  liveliest  astonishment.  This  ascent,  we 
were  informed,  was  the  seventy-fourth  flight  of  this 
skilful  aeronaut.  There  would  seem,  therefore,  to 
be  scarcely  more  danger  in  making  a  journey  through 
the  atmosphere,  by  means  of  a  silken  bag,  filled  with 
inflammable  air,  than  in  a  voyage  at  sea ! 

Two  kinds  of  vehicles  are  used  in  Paris,  as  hack- 
neys— fiacres  and  cabriolets.  The  former  are  pre- 
cisely like  the  coaches  of  London  and  New-York,  ex- 
cept that  they  are  kept  in  better  order,  especially 
within.  The  cabriolet  is  a  large  and  clumsy  kind  of 
chair  or  gig,  with  a  leathern  top,  extending  forward 
further  than  is  usual  in  our  topped  chairs.  It  is  drawn 
by  one  horse,  and  is  wide  enough  to  hold  two  persons, 
besides  the  driver,  who  sits  with  his  passengers.  The 
prices  of  both  of  them  are  fixed  by  law,  and  do  not 


256  PARIB. 

vary  for  any  distance  within  the  walls, — thirty  soue 
for  a  fiacre,  and  twenty-five  for  a  cabriolet. 

The  palace  and  garden  of  the  TliuilltMies,  will  ex- 
cite the  notice  of  a  stranger,  early  after  his  arrival  in 
Paris.     The  former  is  an  ancient  building,  consisting 
of  a  large  central  pavilion,  and  two  others  on  each 
side,  at  a  distance  from  the  centre  and  each  other, 
and  the  whole  connected  by  four  ranges  of  buildir»gs, 
forming  one  grand  facade,  of  1000  feet.     Every  order 
of  architecture  has  been  employed  to  embellish  this 
noble  front.     The  roof,  however,  is  very  steep,  and  is 
altogether  too  conspicuous  to  please  a  modern  eye. 
The  front  of  the  palace  is  open  to  the  garden;  the 
side  next  the  court  is  ornamented  with  a  portico,  de- 
corated by  Ionic  columns  and  statues.     The  front  ex- 
hibits eighteen  marble  statues,  of  Roman  senators,  and 
twenty-two  busts  of  Roman   generals  and  emperors. 
The  garden  of  the  Thuilleries  extends  about  four 
hundred   toises,   (half  a  mile,)  from  the  palace,   to 
"  Place  Louis  XV."  and  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  width.     This  large  space  contains,  on  each  side  of 
the  main  avenue,  a  most  delightful  grove  of  large  trees, 
chiefly  of  the  horse-chesnut,  planted  in  rows,  and  with 
vistas   passing  through  them,  in  various  directions. 
The  branches  of  the  trees  are   trimmed,   or  rather 
clipped  with  shears,   to  symmetrical  shapes,  so  that 
every  tree  which  faces  an  avenue,  has  the  same  shape. 
The  ground,  beneath  the  trees,  is  an  entire  level ;  not 
a  blade  of  grass  is  allowed  to  grow  in  it ;  and  the  de- 
cayed leaves  are  removed  as  they  fall.     Several  jets 
tVeaux  play  in  the  garden,  in  the  midst  of  large  basins, 
encased  with  white  marble,  in  which  swans  are  sport- 
ing, as  tame  as  the  visiters  who  observe  them.    Sta- 


PARIS.  257 

tues  of  marble  and  bronze,  are  distributed  through- 
out this  enchanting  place.  The  garden  is  open  to 
every  decently  dressed  citizen ;  and  in  the  evening,  in 
good  weather,  it  contains  thousands  of  people,  who 
resort  thither  afterthe  hours  of  busiiiessare  over.  Two 
centinels,  one  always  a  Swiss,  are  stationed  at  each 
gate.  No  person  carrying  a  parcel  or  bundle,  nor  any 
one  without  a  cravat,  or  long  coat,  is  allowed  to  entcF. 
Some  of  the  avenues  are  lined  with  orange  trees  of  a 
very  large  size,  growing  in  painted  boxes.  The 
Seine  flows  on  one  side  of  the  garden ;  and  on  this 
side  a  terrace  has  been  raised,  through  the  whole  ex- 
tent, from  which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  river,  and 
the  city  on  the  opposite  side.  The  Thuilleries  is  the 
residence  of  the  present  King.  Bonaparte  sometimes 
resided  here,  but  frequently  changed  his  station  t© 
some  other  palace,  for  there  are  several  others  with- 
in the  walls  of  the  city. 

i:3th.  I  called  to-day,  with  *  *******,  of  Philadel- 
phia, recently  arrived  in  Paris,  on  the  AbbeGaultier, 
and  found  him  with  a  class  of  boys,  composed  of  the 
monitors  of  different  schools  This  excellent  man  is 
a  warm  friend  and  promoter  of  the  system  of  mutual 
instruction,  as  they  here  call  the  plan,  which,  in  En- 
gland, is  denominated  Lancasterian.  The  boys  were 
undergoing,  in  his  presence,  an  examination  in  gram-- 
mar.  To  no  person  perhaps,  in  France,  is  the  erection 
of  schools,  and  the  extension  of  education  among  the 
poor,  more  highly  indebted.  Besides  his  exertions, 
in  common  with  others,  to  establish  schools  on  the 
improved  system,  he  has  published  a  variety  of  books 
adapted  to  that  system,  which  are  now  in  use  if*  tbe 
schools.      The  mildnees  of  his  manners,  and  the  bene^ 


258  PARIS, 

volence  of  his  countenance,  impressed  me  very  agree- 
ably. 

We  also  called  on  Count  L'Asteyne,who  is  likewise 
distino^iiishcd  for  his  philanthropic  efforts  in  the  cause 
of  education,  and  for  his  ingenious  and  persievering 
endeavours  to  introduce  the  art  of  printing  on  stone. 
He  politely  conducted  us  to  his  Lithographic  rooms, 
where  we  saw  the  operation  of  smoothing  the  stone^ 
putting  on  the  colours,  sponging,  inkitig,  and  printing. 
The  process  is  admirably  adapted  to  drawings  of  all 
kinds,  and  may  be  applied  to  scrip  printing,  but  has 
no  sort  of  adaptation  to  common  letter  press.  The 
stone  is  a  compact  carbonate  of  lime,  of  a  close  tex- 
ture. After  it  has  received  the  requisite  polish,  the 
figure  or  character  is  laid  on  with  a  pencil  dipped  in 
ink  of  a  particular  composition.  An  actual  drawing  is 
thus  effected  of  the  object  to  be  represented.  The 
stone  being  then  placed  in  the  frame  of  the  press,  a 
sponge,  dipped  in  water,  is  sever.il  times  passed  over 
it,  and  the  ink  is  put  on.  by  pressing  upon  the  stone 
a  soft  substance,  charged  with  it,  much  in  the  same 
manner  as  that  practised  with  common  types.  But 
the  ink  adheres  to  no  part  of  the  surface  which  is  tho- 
roughly wet,  and  of  course  it  is  ordy  that  part  which 
has  been  previously  covered  with  the  paint  that  takes 
the  ink,  and  produces  the  impression,  when  covered 
with  paper,  and  subjected  to  the  press. 

1 4th.  Most  of  this  day  was  devoted  to  the  Garden  of 
Plants,  or,  as  it  is  now  called,  "  le  Jardin  du  Roi."  The 
various  establishments  which  are  known  by  this  title, 
do  the  utmost  credit  to  the  liberality  of  the  govern- 
meiit,  and  to  the  science  of  the  nation.  Besides  agri- 
cultural and  botanical  gardens  of  considerable  extents 


PARIS.  259 

adapted  to  practical,  as  well  as  scientific  instruction-, 
there  are,  within  the  walls,  screen  and  hot  houses  oi 
more  than  600  feet  in  length ;  a  menagerie  of  wild 
beasts,  many  of  them  within  large  enclosures;  an  avi- 
arj,containing  a  collection  of  almost  every  bird  known 
in  France  and  the  neighbouring  countries;  a  museum 
of  natural  history,  more  than  600  feet  long;  an  ex~ 
tensive  library;  a  cabinet  of  comparative  anatomy? 
and  an  amphitheatre,  in  which  public  lectures  are  de- 
livered on  all  the  branches  of  natural  history,  and  on 
general  chemistry,  on  pharmaceutical  chemistry,  and 
on  the  application  of  chemistry  to  the  arts.  Most  of 
the  professors  have,  likewise,  dwelling-houses  within 
the  garden. 

15th.  Dr.  P.  accompanied  me  to  a  lecture  of  Dn 
Gall,  the  celebrated  Craniologist.  He  treated,  in 
this  lecture,  of  the  evidences  of  different  organs  in 
the  brain,  deduced  from  its  compound  structure,  and 
from  a  comparison  of  the  brain  and  skull  of  different 
animals.  He  reasoned  ingeniously  upon  the  points  he 
wished  to  establish.  His  manner  is  open  and  clear- 
and  it  cannot  be  denied,  I  think,  that  his  talents  are 
respectable ;  but  it  will  be  long,  I  suspect,  before  his 
principles  can  assume  the  form  of  a  regular  science? 
susceptible  of  much  practical  application.  Several 
females  were  in  his  class,  and  among  them  two  dutch- 
esses.  It  does  not  appear  to  me  that  his  doctrine  re- 
ceives much  support  from  scientific  men,  even  in  Pa- 
ris ;  though  I  know  there  are  some  persons  who  con- 
sider them  as  substantially  correct.  His  coadjutor. 
Dr.  Spurzheim,  has,  I  believe,  been  rather  more  sue* 
cessful  in  England,  in  gaining  proselytes  to  their  era- 
niological  theories. 


260  PARIS. 

J  6th.  In  order  to  see  a  little  of  the  neighbourhood 
of  Paris,  we  engaged  this  morning  a  fiacre,  and  rode 
to  St.  Denys,  a  viMage  six  miles  distatit.  in  the  cele- 
brated cathedral  of  this  town,  we  were  shown  the 
vaults  which  are  intended  as  the  place  of  deposit  for 
the  remains  of  the  present  line  of  kings.  The  relics 
of  Louis  XVM.  and  Marie  Antoinette  are  here,  but  the 
vault  in  which  they  lie  is  not  opened  to  the  publiCr 
We  were  shown  the  coffin  of  the  late  Prince  of  Conde. 
Some  of  the  monuments  in  this  cathedral  are  more 
splendid  than  any  thing  of  the  sepulchral  kind  1  hare 
yet  witnessed;  not  excepting  those  in  Westminster 
Abbey.  This  cathedral  was  almost  reduced  to  a  heap 
of  ruins  by  the  fury  of  the  revolution,  and  its  numerous 
relics  scattered  to  the  winds.  Bonaparte  took  par- 
ticular pains  to  restore  it  to  more  than  its  ancient  dig- 
nity ;  intending  it,  I  believe,  as  the  sepultural  abode 
of  his  own  family. 

What  a  lesson  to  monarchs  is  contained  in  the  voice 
which  issues  from  the  vaults  of  this  cathedral !  The 
bones  of  heroes  and  the  dust  of  ancient  monarchs  are 
torn  from  them  by  the  violence  of  popular  indigna- 
tion. A  new  and  more  powerful  monarch  succeeds, 
who  repairs  and  beautifies  these  tombs,  and  selects 
them  as  the  final  repose  of  himself  and  his  august  race: 
but,  before  his  head  is  silvered  witli  gray,  he  is  swept 
from  his  kingdom  and  country,  and  the  ancient  race 
is  again  restored,  and  has  once  more  begun  to  peo- 
ple these  subterranean  abodes. 

From  St.  Denys  we  rode  to  Montmorency,  four  or 
five  miles  further,  where  we  were  shown  the  cottage 
which  was  for  some  time  the  residence  of  Jean  Jacques 
Rousseau.     Wishing  to  view  the  heights  near  the  vil- 


PAR1S»  261 

iage,  we  were  furnished  each  with  a  donkey,  and  thus 
mounted,  in  a  style  which,  to  us,  was  truly  ludicrous, 
we  ascended  the  hills,  with  a  boy  running  after  us 
with  a  stick. to  whip  our  beasts  along,  and  point  out  the 
paths.  Our  feet  almost  dragged  the  ground,  and  we 
could  scarcely  avoid  being  convulsed  with  laughter., 
at  the  figure  which  we  cut,  upon  these  almost  con- 
temptible beasts  of  burden.  We  enjoyed,  however, 
Tery  highly,  a  ride  of  an  hour  or  two,  in  a  way  quite 
new  to  us  all.  The  scenery  and  the  roads,  during 
this  excursion,  were  interesting  and  agreeable.  The 
village  of  Montmorency,  and  several  other  places, 
through  which  we  passed,  were  crowded  with  visiters, 
all  of  whom  seemed  bent  on  the  enjoyment  of  some 
sport,  and  particularly  that  of  music  and  dancing.  On 
our  return,  we  stopped  at  Montmartre,  a  high  conical 
elevation,  just  without  the  walls  of  Paris,  and  almost 
covered  with  houses.  On  the  summit  are  the  ruins  of 
a  church,  which  have  been  converted  into  a  post  of 
military  observation,  and  surmounted  with  a  telegraph. 
This  hill,  strongly  fortified,  was  the  last  resource  of 
the  Parisians,  on  the  approach  of  the  allied  armies. 
It  completely  overlooks  the  whole  city,  and  the  exten- 
sive champain  around  it.  The  keeper  of  the  obser» 
vatory,  who  explained  to  us  the  scenery,  informed  us, 
that  he  was  on  the  hill  during  the  whole  of  the  con*^ 
test,  from  the  time  the  allies  first  appeared  in  sight,  to 
the  period  of  the  surrender  of  the  city.  He  showed 
us  the  house  in  which  Joseph  Bonaparte  had  ordered 
dinner  for  himself  and  some  others ;  but  finding  it  wa? 
likely  to  become  too  hot  a  place  to  enjoy  his  repast 
in,  he  transferred  the  dinner  to  another  quarter.  Thie 
man  recounted  to  us,  with  as  much  minuteness  as  ^vr- 
VoL.  I.  22 


262  PARIS. 

wished,  the  movements  of  the  armies,  and  the  destruc- 
tive terrors  of  the  conflict.  The  view  of  Paris,  from 
iVlontmartre,  will  compensate  any  one  for  the  toil  of 
reachina;  the  summit.  Information  of  the  birth  of  the 
son  of  Napoleon  was  communicated,  we  were  told, 
from  this  hill,  by  telegraph,  to  Rome,  and  an  answer 
returned,  in  one  hour  and  fifteen  minutes. 

17th.  I  was  introduced  to-day,  to  the  Chambers  of 
the  Institute,  by  Count  BerthoUet,  and  attended  a  sit- 
ting of  that  body.  They  occupy  two  large  rooms,  the 
walls  of  which  are  completely  filled  with  books,  form- 
ing a  very  extensive  library.  One  of  the  rooms  serves 
as  an  antichamber,  in  which  the  members  assemble 
and  converse,  prior  to  the  sound  of  the  president's 
bell,  which  convenes  them  in  the  other  room.  I  was 
struck  with  the  general  physiognomy  of  this  learned 
body.  A  stranger,  without  knowing  who  or  what  they 
were,  would  certainly  pronounce  them  to  be  men  of 
strong  sense.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  French 
countenance  is  more  expressive  of  character  than  the 
English.  A  narrow  table  extends  along  the  four  sides 
of  the  room,  around  which  the  members  sit,  facing 
each  other.  In  the  intervening  spaces  are  also  tables, 
occupied  by  members.  The  president  sits  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  room,  in  a  chair  slightly  elevated  above  the 
rest.  Strangers  are  admitted  into  the  area,  outside  of 
the  tables.  Several  papers  were  read  by  members, 
who  remained  at  their  places,  without  rising. 

21st.  The  palace  and  garden  of  the  Luxemburg, 
though  inferior  to  those  of  the  Thuilleries,  are  very 
large.  The  garden  contains  delightful  groves  and 
fountains,  a  great  number  of  statues,  and  some  jets- 
d'eaux-    It  is  more  elevated  and  more  rural  than  the 


PARIS.  263 

Thuilleries,  and  commands  a  better  range  of  pros- 
pect. The  palace  is  360  feet  long  and  300  wide. 
Within  it  are  three  galleries  of  paintings,  many  of 
which  are  from  the  pencil  of  Rubens,  and  among  his 
most  esteemed  productions.  Several  of  the  finest 
pieces,  however,  which  adorned  these  galleries,  have 
been  removed  to  the  Louvre,  to  fill  the  vacancies  oc- 
casioned by  the  restoration  of  the  plundered  treasure 
of  other  countries.  Still  there  is  enough  left  in  the 
Luxemburg  to  atibrd  any  person  who  has  the  least 
taste  for  paintinjj;,  hours  of  gratification.  There  is,  I 
think,  in  this  collection,  a  greater  proportion  of  large 
pictures,  than  in  the  gallery  of  the  Louvre.  Some 
of  the  best  specimens  of  David's  execution  are  here 
exhibited.  They  appeared  to  me  to  be  marked  by 
a  vigour  of  expression,  and  a  strength  and  richness 
of  colouring,  rarely  to  be  seen.  Yet  there  was  some- 
thing in  the  general  effpct  of  almost  all  the  produc- 
tions of  this  great  artist,  which  did  not  please  me;  I 
can  scarcely  say  what  it  was,  nor  can  I  positively 
deny,  that  it  may  have  been  the  effect  of  a  prejudice 
derived  from  the  ujicouth  features  of  this  painter,  as 
shown  in  the  likenesses  I  have  seen  of  him ;  and  from 
those  traits  of  his  character  which  the  Revolution 
brought  into  view. 

We  met  here  *.  *.  *******#^  a  "Friend"  from 
London,  his  wifie,  son,  and  four  daughters.  It  is  an  un- 
common thing  for  '^Friends"  to  greet  each  other  unex- 
pectedly in  Paris.  *.  *.  ****  and  myself,  excite  as 
much  aotice  in  the  puhlic  walks,  from  the  slight  pecu- 
liarity of  our  hats  and  coats,  as  a  Persian  satrap,  with 
bis  silks  and  turban,  would  do  in  Philadelphia  or 
New-York.    "  Voila  le  grand  chapeau !"  is  a  remark 


264  PARIS. 

which,  in  an  undertone,  often  strikes  our  ears,  as  wc 
pass  through  the  crowd. 

22d.  Adet,  the  former  minister  of  France  to  the 
United  States,  called  and  took  me  to  see  Vauquehn, 
who,  as  one  of  the  professors,  resides  in  the  Garden 
of  Plants.  He  was  not  at  home ;  but  we  had  a  long 
conversation  with  two  sprightly  old  ladies,  who  live 
in  the  same  house;  both  of  them  sisfers  of  Fourcroy, 
the  late  celebrated  chemist.  One  of  them  talked  in- 
cessantly for  half  an  hour;  giving  me  a  more  com- 
plete specimen  of  female  volubility,  than  I  ever  had 
before.  Her  subjects  were  all  of  a  domestic  nature, 
relating  to  individuals  of  their  acquaintance;  but  her 
animation  and  fluency,  went  very  much  to  confirm  me 
in  the  opinion,  that  the  French  language  is  better 
adapted  than  our  own,  to  the  rapid  and  easy  move- 
meni  of  the  organs  of  speech.  The  celebrated 
Abbe  Haiiy,  also  lives  within  the  garden.  We  found 
him  at  breakfast.  He  received  us  with  the  greatest 
simplicity  and  ease,  and,  without  ceasing  to  eat  his 
fruit  and  drink  his  wine,  began  to  converse  about 
America  and  American  mirieralogists ;  and  evinced 
a  very  familiar  acquaintance  with  the  peculiarities  of 
the  United  States,  in  relation  to  his  favourite  science. 
He  took  me  iisto  his  cabinet,  and  performed  a  num- 
ber of  experiments  on  the  electricity  of  the  tourma- 
line, arid  other  crystalline  substances.  He  is  an  old 
man,  bending  under  the  weight  of  years,  but  active 
and  persevering  in  his  department,  and  of  kind  and 
aff'ectionate  manners. 

2iid.  This  being  a  day  in  which  the  public  are 
admitted  to  the  French  palaces,  we  rode  to  St.  Cloud, 
viewed  the  garden,  and  were  escorted,  in  common 


PARIS.  265 

with  hundreds,  and  probably  thousands,  of  others, 
through  the  different  apartments  of  the  palace.  The 
situation  of  this  palace  is  extremely  fine.  The  gar- 
dens, in  point  of  prospect  and  other  local  advantages, 
are  much  superior,  and  in  relation  to  taste  and  deco- 
ration, but  little  inferior,  to  the  Thuilleries.  The  fur- 
niture, paintings,  tapestry,  and  other  ornaments,  far 
exceed  in  splendour  and  costliness,  any  thing  I  had 
before  seen.  We  were  both  surprised  and  amused,  at 
observing,  in  one  of  the  long  rooms,  a  beautiful  model 
of  the  triumphal  column  in  the  Place  Vendome,  on 
which  the  statue  of  Napoleon  is  still  allowed  to  re- 
main. On  the  real  column  in  Paris,  the  statue  has 
been  displaced  by  a  white  flag. 

We  continued  our  ride  to  Versailles,  and  went 
through  the  palace  and  gardens  of  that  distinguished 
place.  The  splendour  of  St.  Cloud  is  lost  in  the 
magnificence  of  Versailles.  Thousands  were  con- 
ducted, like  ourselves,  through  the  majestic  saloons, 
galleries,  and  chambers,  of  this  palace.  The  painted 
ceilings,  the  pictured  walls,  the  size  and  number  of 
the  mirrors,  the  highly  finished  floors,  the  tapestry, 
the  gilding,  the  exquisitely  wrought  furniture,  admit 
of  no  description  that  can  convey  an  adequate  idea 
of  its  sumptuousness.  The  gardens  are  proportion- 
ately extensive,  magnificent,  and  costly.  The  artifi= 
cial  cascades  and  jets-d'eaux,  are  considered  as  the 
noblest  in  the  world.  At  one  basin  alone  there  are 
eighty  jets,  some  perpendicular,  others  oblique,  issu- 
ing from  dolphins,  dragons,  &c.,  all  under  the  com- 
mand of  Neptune,  who  stands  in  the  middle,  sur- 
rounded with  his  water  gods,  pouring  forth  streams 

22* 


266 


PARIfi. 


and  torrents  of  water.  The  number  of  persons  col" 
lected  around  this  basin,  waiting  for  the  moment 
when  the  jets  would  begin  to  play,  we  estimated  at 
20,000.  The  machine  at  Marly,  which  raises  the  water 
that  supplies  these  fouritains,  must  have  been,  at  the 
time  of  its  construction,  an  admirable  effort  of  mecha- 
nical skill.  The  fall  of  the  river  is  but  three  feet,  yet 
this  faUis  made  to  turn  fourteen  large  wheels,and  these 
work  the  forcing  pumps,  which  lift,  or  rather  propel 
the  water,  by  three  successive  stages,  to  the  reservoir 
which  supplies  the  fountains.  The  machine  raises 
about  800  hogsheads  per  hour,  or  14  hogsheads  per 
minute.  But  the  water-works  at  London-bridge,  with 
only  four  wheels,  raises  32  hogsheads  in  a  minute^ 
The  machine  at  Marly,  is  said  to  have  cost  four  mil- 
lions sterling  ;  but  with  what  correctness,  I  know  not. 
There  are  steam  engines  in  England,  which  exert  a 
force  equal  to  this  machine,  which  do  not  cost  more 
than  £10,000.  In  every  part  of  this  extensive  gar- 
den, are  waterfalls  and  jets,  constructed  in  the  most 
fanciful  forms,  with  pavilions,  arcades,  large  groves, 
shrubbery,  flowers,  and  statues,  almost  innumerable. 
Towards  the  lower  extremity  of  the  garden  is  a  canal, 
1600  yards  long  and  64  broad,  with  two  branches, 
each  of  which  is  518  yards  in  length.  At  the  bottom 
is  another  palace  called  the  Grand  Trianon,  through 
which  we  were  conducted.  The  furniture  here  is  also 
rery  splendid.  I  noticed  particularly,  a  vase  or  basin, 
about  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  pretty  large  table, 
both  formed  of  malachite  or  carbonate  of  copper; 
they  are  extremely  beautiful.  The  little  Trianon  is 
a  small  palace  in  another  part  of  the  garden,  of  much 
less  imposing  appearance. 


PARIS.  267 

The  palace  and  garden  of  Versailles,  and  indeed 
nearly  the  whole  town,  (which  contains  about  20,000 
inhabitants,)  were  built  under  the  direction  of  that 
luxurious  monarch  Louis  XIV.  It  appeared  to  me 
very  reasonable  to  conclude,  that  the  two  palaces  of 
St.  Cloud  and  Versailles,  with  the  gardens,  furniture, 
paintings,  and  other  appurtenances,  as  they  now 
exist,  would  cost  more  than  the  whole  city  of  New- 
York  !     Versailles  is  twelve  miles  from  Paris. 

24th.  Adet  called  again  this  morning.  We  found 
Vauquelin  at  home,  and  had  a  pleasant  conversation 
with  him  and  the  old  ladies.  He  has  a  remarkably 
mild  and  agreeable  countenance.  Adet  informed  me, 
that  Lavoisier's  death,  (one  of  the  darkest  deeds  of 
the  Revolution,)  was  very  much  owing  to  his  holding 
the  station  of  farmer-general,  an  office  against  which 
the  republicans  discharged  their  most  malignant  ve- 
nom. Had  he  been  willing  to  take  the  advice  of  his 
friends,  his  life  might  have  been  saved ;  but  relying  on 
his  own  unblemished  integrity,  he  persisted  in  a  course 
of  action  which  brought  him  to  the  guillotine.  It  is  a 
fact,  that  Robespierre  would  not  even  give  him  time 
to  finish  an  interesting  experiment,  by  which  he  hoped 
to  deduce  an  important  chemical  truth. 

I  attended  the  Institute  again  with  Dr.  P.  The 
president  for  the  day  was  De  Rossel.  The  two  per- 
petual secretaries,  Delambre  and  Cuvier,  sit  on  his 
right ;  and  the  vice  president,  Vauquelin,  on  his  left. 
The  minutes  and  correspondence  were  read,  and 
then  several  papers  by  the  members;  among  which 
was  one  by  Thenard.  The  sittings  are  well  attended. 
It  was  very  interesting  to  see  men  whose  names 
make  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  modern  science,  as- 


268  PARIS, 

sembled  at  a  board,  which  has  done  so  much  to  ex- 
tend the  progress  of  useful  discovery  and  improve- 
ment. Some  of  them  are  very  old,  particularly 
Haiiy,  Lamarc,  Lacepede,  and  Berthollet. 

25th.  This  day  being  the  grand  fete  of  St.  Louis, 
and  as  it  was  to  be  held  as  such,  for  the  first  time  in 
twenty  or  twenty-five  years,  (having  been  roughly 
pushed  out  of  the  calendar  by  St.  Napoleon,)  we 
were  desirous  to  see  how  the  populace  of  Paris 
would  conduct  themselves,  particularly  as  great  pre- 
parations had  been  made  to  celebrate  it  with  unusual 
pomp. 

In  the  forepart  of  the  day,  the  crowd  was  most  nu- 
merous on  the  boulevards,  and  along  the  river,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  procession  of  the  king,  attended  by 
the  miUtary.  This  procession,  which  drew  a  vast 
concourse  of  people,  terminated  at  the  Pont-Neuf, 
where  a  new  equestrian  statue  of  Henry  IV.  had  just 
been  erected,  and  which  was  then  to  be  installed  in  its 
place,  in  presence  of  the  king  and  royal  family.  But 
the  principal  rendezvous,  and  theatre  of  diversion, 
was  the  Champs  Elysees.  This  extensive  field  be- 
came crowded  in  almost  every  part,  long  before  night. 
At  a  reasonable  computation,  there  must  have  been 
200,000  people  here  assembled.  Large  stages  were 
erected  along  the  principal  avenue,  from  which  were 
distributed  wine  and  bread  to  the  populace,  without 
cost.  Part  of  the  diversion,  consisted  in  making  the 
people  scramble  for  the  wine.  The  stage  was  so 
high,  and  so  closely  boarded  up  on  all  sides,  they  had 
110  means  of  getting  at  it  but  by  clambering  on  each 
others'  shoulders,  and  presenting  their  mugs,  pitchers, 
and  buckets,  to  the  officers  on  the  stage.    For  this 


PARiff.  269 

purpose,  different  parties  clubbed  together  to  support 
each  other,  and  to  oppose  the  rest.  Sometimes  the 
wine  was  drawn  by  the  men  on  the  stage,  who  were 
charged  with  tjhe  distribution,  and  when  a  vessel  was 
handed  them,  by  a  successful  climber,  they  filled  it, 
in  whole  or  in  part,  and  the  boy,  after  drinking  him* 
self,  handed  the  rest  to  his  companions.  On  other 
occasions,  they  bored  a  hole  through  the  side  of  the 
stage,  and  inserting  a  tube  through  this  hole,  they 
connected  it  with  the  pipe  of  wine,  and  allowed  it  to 
run  through  in  a  constant  stream.  In  the  struggle  to 
catch  it,  a  good  deal  was  lost,  but  the  greater  portion 
found  its  way  into  one  or  other  of  the  numerous  con- 
tending pitchers  and  buckets. 

The  same  strife  was  kept  up,  in  endeavouring  to 
seize  the  thousands  of  loaves  of  bread  and  sausages, 
which  were  thrown  out  from  other  platforms,  erected 
for  that  purpose,  in  another  part  of  the  ground,  high 
poles,  like  the  masts  of  a  ship,  were  firmly  erected, 
made  perfectly  smooth,  and  slushed  all  over  with  soapo 
At  the  top  of  each  of  these  poles  a  large  hoop  was 
suspended,  decorated  with  leaves  and  flowers ;  and 
to  each  of  them  were  attached  watrhes,  gold  rings, 
silver  cups,  and  other  valuable  articles.  These  were 
the  prize  of  him  who  should  be  successful  in  climbing 
to  the  top.  x\round  every  pole  there  were,  probably, 
a  dozen  or  twenty  competitors.  They  were  allowed 
to  take  up  a  little  straw  or  dust  with  them,  to  wipe  olf 
the  grease,  and  ficilitate  their  progress,  but  no  instru- 
ments. The  effort  was  a  severe  one,  and  none  suc- 
ceeded until  after  hours  of  reiterated  effort,  A  string 
of  them  would  sometimes  be  seen  on  the  pole— the 
upper  one  would  give  out,  and  occasionally  slide  by 


270  pahis. 

the  others,  but  very  frequently  bring  them  all  down 
with  him  to  the  ground.  Rope  dancing  and  tumbling, 
both  by  male  and  female  operators,  fiddling,  stage 
ph^ying,  puppet  shows,  and  a  variety  of  other  diver- 
sions, were  in  constant  operation,  upon  wide  and  open 
stages,  erected  around  the  field.  Refreshments  of  all 
kinds  were  to  be  had.  To  increase  the  effect  of  this 
grand  fete  (which  it  must  be  remembered  cost  the 
spectators  nothing  but  their  time  and  their  taxes — 
things  they  seem  to  care  not  much  about,  if  they  can 
but  have  3.  grand  spectacle.')  Madame  Blanchard  again 
ascended,  from  the  centre  of  the  largest  open  area. 
We  obtained  a  station  very  close  to  the  balloon.  The 
evening  was  extremely  fine,  and  scarcely  a  breath  of 
■wind  to  be  felt.  She  rose  very  slowly,  frequently 
emptying  a  bag  of  sand  to  promote  her  ascent.  Some- 
times she  sat  down  in  the  car,  and  then  rose  up  to  show 
herself,  waving  her  flag  to  the  thousands  of  gazing 
spectators.  The  flag,  at  a  great  height,  slipped  oflf 
the  rod,  and  fell.  She  immediately  took  out  her  white 
pocket  handkerchief,  and  fastened  it  on  the  rod,  wa- 
ving it,  as  she  rose  slowly  towards  the  clouds.  She 
at  length  applie<l  Her  maicli  to  the  train  of  powder, 
and  was  immediately  surroufided  with  the  hlaze  of 
rockets,  flying  in  every  direction,  and  crackirjg  like 
the  noise  of  a  hundred  pistols.  When  the  fireworks 
had  ceased,  the  figure  of  a  beautiful  star  appeared 
under  the  balloon,  and  remained  visible,  until  the 
balloon,  which  was  itself  illuminated,  disappeared, 
either  in  consequence  of  its  great  elevation,  or  of  the 
interference  of  some  light  clouds  which  were  floating 
at  a  great  height  in  the  air.  The  latter  appeared  to 
me  the  most  probable. 


PARIS.  271 

We  returned  from  this  scene  of  crowded  novelty,  of 
gajety,  and  of  nonsense,  astonished  at  the  good  order 
which  every  where  prevailed.  Not  a  single  instance 
of  drunkenness,  or  of  quarrelling,  notwithstanding  the 
eager  strife  of  the  very  lowest  classes,  for  the  wine  and 
the  sausages,  occurred  to  our  notice  during  the  whole 
day.  It  is  true,  gens  d''arm€s  were  every  where  mingled 
with  the  crowd,  ready,  at  a  moment,  to  check  any  dis- 
order; yet  it  is  impossible  to  avoid  the  conclusion, 
that  the  national  temperament  of  the  French,  in  times 
of  national  tranquillity,  is  more  favourable  to  decency 
of  manners,  to  good  humour,  and  the  civilities  of  so- 
cial intercourse,  than  that  of  either  England  or  Ame^ 
rica.  The  illuminations  of  the  whole  Champs  Elysees, 
the  Garden  of  the  Thuilleries,  and  most  of  the  public 
buildings,  produced  a  splendour  not  easily  imagined ; 
and  the  discharge  of  numerous  fireworks  terminated 
the  fete  of  St.  Louis^  doubtless,  very  much  to  the  con» 
tent  of  his  successor,  and  of  his  liege  subjects  in  the 
great  city  of  Paris. 

26th.  I  visited,  to-day,  M.  A.  J.  and  the  Abbe  Gre- 
goire.  The  former  is  a  gentleman  much  interested  in 
schools  and  other  benevolent  concerns.  The  latter 
was  formerly  Bishop  of  Blois,  but  lost  his  favour  with 
the  dominant  party  in  religion  and  politics,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  liberality  of  his  religious  opinions,  and 
his  dislike  to  oppression  in  every  shape.  His  publi- 
cations in  favour  of  the  blacks,  and  the  general  bene- 
volence of  his  character,  are  well  known.  If  his 
mind  is  not  characterised  by  the  very  strongest  traits 
of  genius,  it  is  distinguished  by  the  clearest  evidences 
of  Christian  kindness,  and  the  love  of  his  fellow  crea- 
tures -f  and  well  would  it  be,  I  think,  if  much  of  the 


272  ^  PARIS. 

mere  genius  of  the  world  could  be  made  to  give  way  to 
qualities  of  such  a  nature  as  these.  I  learned  from 
the  Abbe,  that  one  of  the  objections  advanced  by  the 
Catholics  against  the  general  circulation  of  the  Bible, 
is,  that  certain  parts  of  it,  particularly  the  book  of  Le- 
viticus and  the  Canticles,  were  liable  to  be  misunder- 
stood and  abused,  particularly  by  young  people.  The 
frank  and  kind  reception  I  met  with,  from  both  these 
gentlemen,  was  very  satisfactory.  Dr.  P.  introduced 
me,  in  the  course  of  this  day's  round,  to  Thenard,  the 
able  professor  of  chemistry  in  the  College  of  France. 
We  found  him  in  his  laboratory,  engaged  in  experi- 
ments. He  stated  to  us  some  discoveries  he  had  just 
made,  relative  to  the  super-oxygenisement  of  acids,  by 
means  of  barytes,  and  the  evidence  of  the  discharge 
of  the  additional  oxygen,  by  the  agency  of  silver. 

27th.  I  went,  with  some  friends,  to  see  a  gymnastic 
school,  kept  by  Amonton.  The  boys  were  exercised 
m  jumping,  climbing,  walking  on  stilts,  and  other  bo- 
dily manoeuvres.  A  systematic  course  of  instruction, 
with  proper  exercises,  on  the  right  use  of  their  limbs, 
I  have  long  thought,  would  be  very  advantageous  to 
boys.  The  person,  who  gives  this  instruction,  endea- 
voured, some  time  ago,  to  establish  a  school  at  Ma- 
drid, on  the  plan  of  Pestalozzi ;  but  the  effort  was  not 
very  successful. 

28th.  We  breakfasted  this  morning  at  the  Caffe 
Zoppi,  Rue  des  Fosses  St.  Germain  des  pres.  This 
coffee-house  was  formerly  the  rendezvous  of  Voltaire, 
Rousseau,  Fontenelle,  and  other  literary  men  of  the 
last  century.  The  newspapers,  and  several  literary 
journals  are  taken,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  are  in- 
clined to  mingle  politics  with  their  coffee ;  but  there 


^ARis.  273 

was  nothing  in  the  appearance  and  conversation  of 
the  guests  we  met  there,  that  seemed  to  have  any 
connection  with  the  wit  and  humour,  the  poetry,  poli- 
tics, and  irreligion  of  former  days. 

With  W.  M******,  of  Philadelphia,  whose  generous 
efforts  to  promote  the  advancement  of  science  in  the 
United  States,  have  justly  obtained  for  him  the  Pre 
sidency  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  in  Phila- 
delphia, 1  went  to  the  School  of  Mines,  in  Rue  d'En- 
fer.  We  found  a  ready  admittance  to  the  collectionE 
of  this  distinguished  and  important  school.  It  occu- 
pies the  rooms  of  the  Hotel  Vendome,  a  small  palace» 
erected  formerly  for  one  of  the  sons  of  Louis  XIV.j 
situated  in  the  rear  of  the  Luxemburg.  The  collec- 
tion of  minerals,  in  this  institution,  if  not  so  splendid  as 
that  at  the  Garden  of  Plants,  is  more  valuable.  It  is, 
in  all  probability,  the  most  instructive  collection  in  the 
world.  The  foreign  specimens  are  arranged  in  hori- 
zontal cases,  in  a  lower  room ;  and  the  native  mine- 
rals, in  vertical  cases,  in  a  suite  of  six  or  seven  apart« 
ments,  above  stairs.  The  latter  are  disposed  of  geo- 
graphically ;  that  is,  the  cases  are  marked  w^ith  the 
names  of  the  departments,  and  within  each  division 
are  placed  the  minerals  of  that  particular  region.  It 
is  thus  very  easy  for  the  pupils  of  the  school  to  be« 
come  acquainted  with  the  peculiar  mineralogical  fea- 
tures of  every  department  in  France,  without  leaving 
the  capital.  It  contains  also  a  collection  oC  rocks,  pre- 
sented  by  Werner,  the  great  father  of  modern  minera- 
logy, at  Friburg;  and  Cuvier  and  Brogniard's  colleC' 
tion  of  the  minerals  around  Paris.  In  other  apartments 
of  the  building,  are  furnaces,  chemicals,  and  all  other 
necessary  accommodations,  for  the  analysis  of  minerat 

Vol.  L  23 


274  V  PARIS. 

substances.  This  school  is  composed  of  three  classes 
of  pupils;  viz.  a  French  class,  who  are  retained  by  the 
government,  and  whose  expenses  are  paid ;  another 
French  class,  who  pay  their  own  expenses;  and  a 
class  of  foreigners.  Among  the  latter,  are  two  young 
men  from  Philadelphia,  whose  acquirements  in  mine- 
ralogy and  mining,  are  very  meritorious,  and  whose 
skill  and  science  will,  I  hope,  be  employed  for  the 
future  benefit  of  their  country.* 

29th.  The  museum  of  French  monuments,  is  well 
entitled  to  the  notice  of  a  stranger.  It  consists  of  a 
collection  of  altars,  and  monumental  pieces,  preser- 
ved from  the  fury  of  the  populace,  when,  during  the 
revolution,  the  property  of  the  church  was  confiscated 
for  the  use  of  the  nation.  They  are  not  very  nume- 
rous, but  many  of  them  are  interesting ;  some  for  their 
antiquity,  and  others  for  the  delicacy  and  perfection 
of  the  sculpture.  They  are  arranged  in  halls,  accord- 
ing to  the  order  of  time,  commencing  with  the  moul- 
dering altars  of  the  ancient  Gauls,  and  thence,  in  suc- 
cession, from  the  thirteenth  to  the  eighteenth  century. 
The  names  of  no  inconsiderable  proportion  of  the 
great  characters,  who  have  figured  in  the  political  and 
literary  history  of  France,  arc  here  exhibited  in  a  style 
of  execution,  as  various  as  the  lives  of  those  whose 
names  the  chiselled  marble  is  intended  to  commemo- 
rate. This  is  the  Westminster  Abbey  of  Paris ;  though 
unlike  the  collection  in  that  hoary  edifice,  its  relics  are 
not  in  their  original  situation,  but  brought  together 
from  various  parts  of  the  city  and  country,  thus  consti- 
tuting a  real  museum  of  tomb  stones  and  monuments. 

*  One  of  these  gentlemen,  now  holds  a  professorship  in  Columbia  college, 
South  Carolina,  and  the  other  a  similar  station,  in  the  University  of  Penn- 
.^ylrania. 


PARIS.  275 

But  the  serious  traveller,  how  delighted  soever  he 
may  be  at  the  display  of  so  much  of  the  truly  sublime 
and  beautiful  in  human  art,  must,  on  viewing  such 
collections,  feel  the  force  of  that  poetic  interrogation, 

Can  storied  urn,  or  animated  bust, 
Back  to  its  mansion  call  the  fleeting  breath  ? 
Can  honour's  voice  provoke  the  silent  dust. 
Or  flattery  sooth  the  dull  cold  ear  of  death  ? 

To  the  "  cold  ear"  of  departed  heroes  and  philoso- 
phers, this  flattery  is  utterly  lost.  It  is  only,  therefore, 
from  its  effect  upon  the  living,  that  such  a  vast  ex- 
penditure of  time,  and  talent,  and  substance,  can  be 
justified.  But  who  are  they,  that  are  thus  held  up  to 
the  admiration  of  posterity,  and  whose  names  and 
deeds  are  transmitted,  through  the  impressive  flow  of 
centuries,  by  the  most  laboured  efforts  of  human  art? 
x\re  they  not,  very  often,  those  whose  pathway  of 
life  has  been  strewn  with  the  tears  and  miseries  of 
their  fellow  creatures; — heroes,  that  have  rode 
"  through  slaughter  to  a  throne ;"  and  philosophers, 
whose  moral  creed  has  dropt  poison  into  the  foun- 
tains of  human  happiness? 

In  the  court  of  this  ''  museum,"  overhung  by  cypress 
and  willow,  are  the  ashes  of  Moliere,  La  Fontaine, 
Boileau.  Descartes.  Masillon,  and  Montfaucon,  with 
one  or  two  heroes  of  the  sword. 

We  visited,  among  other  places,  to-day,  the  model 
of  a  fountain,  which  is  to  be  erected  on  the  very  spot, 
where  formerly  stood  the  Bastile,  of  direful,  despotic 
memory.  This  fountain  is  to  be  a  bronze  statue  of  an 
elephant,  seventy-two  (eet  high,  with  a  tower  on  his 
back.  In  one  of  his  legs,  there  is  to  be  a  stair-case^ 
ascending  to  an  apartment  in  his  body,  and  from 
thence  to  the  castle.     The  centre  of  the  castle  is  to 


276  PARIS. 

form  the  reservoir,  around  which  is  to  be  a  gallery, 
■wherein  the  visiters  may  walk,  and  from  which  they 
may  view  (he  city  in  any  direction.  The  jet-d'eau  is 
to  issue  from  the  end  of  the  elephant's  trunk.  A  mo- 
del of  this  huge  thing,  of  the  size  intended,  has  been 
made  in  plaister,  and  is  shown  to  strangers.  It  is 
erected  under  a  very  large  shed.  When  a  foreigner 
wishes  to  view  objects  of  this  nature  in  Paris,  he  has 
only  to  present  himself  to  the  proper  person,  state  his 
request,  show  his  passport,  and  leave  his  address.  A 
written  permit  is  afterwards  sent  to  his  lodgings, 
which  gives  him  leave  of  admission,  without  cost. 
The  pedestal,  on  which  the  elephant  is  to  stand,  has 
been  long  completed  ;  but  the  main  work,  like  many 
others  projected  under  the  great  Emperor,  remains 
nearly  "  in  statu  quo,  ante  helium  "  But  the  number 
of  improvements  which  he  did  effect  in  the  city;  the 
new  works  erected,  and  the  plans  of  improvement 
suggested  and  commenced,  are  astonishingly  great; 
and  so  important  are  they,  generally,  not  only  to  the 
beauty,  but  to  thr?  improvement  of  the  city,  and  the 
real  comfort  of  the  inhabitants,  there  will  not  be  want- 
ing to  the  Parisians,  for  ages  to  come,  daily  mementos 
of  his  industry,  and  his  qualification  to  do  good,  when 
he  was  disposed  to  exert  it. 

30th.  I  spent  the  greater  part  of  this  day  in  the  lec- 
ture room  of  Charles,  an  old  and  veteran  professor  of 
philosophy.  He  has  been  engaged  nearly  thirty  years, 
in  collecting  apparatus,  and  in  delivering  lectures. 
Though  upwards  of  seventy  years  of  age,  he  is  still  an 
active  man,  and  a  good  lecturer.  His  collection  of 
instruments  far  exceeds,  in  extent,  elegance,  and  cost- 
liness) any  thing  that  I  had  ever  expected  to  see.    Its 


PARIS.  277 

value  was  estimated,  a  considerable  time  since,  at  up- 
wards of  1 50,000  francs.     My  opinion,  previous   to 
hearing  of  this  estimate,  was,  that  £10,000  sterling 
would  not  produce  such  a  collection,  at  the  present 
daj.     He  has  devoted  much  of  his  time,  to  the  in- 
vention of  apparatus,  and  improvement  of  the  kinds 
already  in  use.     His  optical  and  electrical  machines, 
are  splendid  and   beautiful.     He   has  three  or  four 
pneumatic  tubs,  with  sliding  shelves,   the  whole  of 
which,  except  the  corners  and  edges,  are  of  plate 
glass.     They  contain,  each,  about  two  cubic  feet  of 
water.     He  performed   a  variety  of  experiments,  on 
light  and  electricity,  for  our  amusement.     Most  of  this 
collection  has  been  made  in  Paris,  by  Dumotiez,  ex- 
cept the  optical  instruments,  many  of  which  are  from 
London. 

9th  month,  3d.  The  Cemetery  of  Pere  La  Chaise, 
just  without  the  eastern  wall,  will  hardly  fail  to  gratify 
the  visiter.  This  celebrated  burial  place,  was  former- 
ly a  chateau,  and  grounds,  given  by  Louis  XIV.  to  his 
favourite  confessor,  Pere  La  Chaise,  who  bequeathed 
it,  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  now  employed. 
Every  citizen,  without  distinction  of  sect,  may  pur- 
chase the  right  of  burial  in  this  cemetery,  including  a 
certain  space  of  ground,  which  is  granted  to  him  for 
ever.  There  is,  accordingly,  on  the  side  of  a  hill, 
within  the  enclosure,  a  number  of  family  vaults,  re- 
cently erected,  with  great  neatness.  This  cemetery 
deserves  to  be  visited  by  every  foreigner,  who  wishes 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  character  of  the  Pari- 
sians. It  is  questionable  whether  any  two  of  the  mo- 
numents or  tomb-stones  are  alike,  in  the  whole  of  this 
very  large  ground,  and  none  of  them  are  similar  to 

23* 


278 


PARIS. 


those  common  in  America.  They  are,  however,  al- 
most universally  characterised  by  neatness  and  deli- 
cacy of  taste.  Many  of  them  are  very  rich  and  cost- 
ly. One  of  the  first  which  attracted  our  notice,  was  a 
!ar£;e  and  expensive  monument,  containing  the  remains 
of  Heloise  and  Abelard.  They  were  removed,  not 
!ong  since,  from  the  museum  of  French  monuments, 
and  deposited  in  this  place.  Almost  every  grave  is 
eurrounded  by  a  neat  railing,  either  of  iron  or  wood, 
and  the  enclosure  is  planted  with  the  choicest  flow- 
ers; while  wreaths  of  leaves  and  flowers  are  seen 
hanging  on  the  monumental  stone.  Once  in  a  year, 
at  least,  and  on  a  fixed  day,  the  relations  and  friends 
of  the  deceased  repair  to  the  spot,  and  renew  the 
pleasing  testimonialsof  their  attachment, by  cultivating 
with  care  the  flowers  which  had  been  planted,  or  by 
planting  new  ones  in  the  room  of  those  which  are  de- 
cayed, and  hanging  fresh  wreaths  on  the  tombs. 
Thus,  instead  of  the  lugubrious  images  of  death  and 
desolation,  which  the  cemeteries  of  other  countries 
too  frequently  exhibit,  these  people  strive  to  render 
^heir  burial  grounds  subservient  to  their  love  of  va- 
riety and  pleasure,  and  to  the  removal  of  that  dread 
of  our  final  change,  which  they  consider  as  too  apt  to 
acquire,  in  some  minds,  a  morbid  influence. 

The  prospect  of  the  city,  from  the  heights  of  Pere 
La  Chaise,  is  very  fine. 

On  our  return,  we  attended  an  examination  of  the 
pupils  of  a  school,  entitled  "L'lnstitut  Academique  des 
nations  Enropeens."  Neither  the  appearance  of  the 
room,  nor  th  exercises  of  the  boys,  had  much  to  cor- 
respond with  this  pompous  title.  A  considerable  au- 
'Jience  of  male  and  female  visiters  was  present,  mostly 


PARIS.  279 

relations  of  the  scholars.  Two  of  the  boys  answered 
questions  in  logic,  and  recited  each  a  portion  of  a 
sermon.  Several  of  them  construed  a  page  or  two 
of  Greek,  Latin,  English,  and  German,  and  one  per- 
formed an  exercise  in  Mathematics.  One  of  the  in- 
structors read  an  address  to  the  scholars  and  to  the 
audience,  and  to  make  it  more  emphatical,  it  was 
written  in  verse,  and  delivered  with  strong  gesture. 
My  friend  *.  *.  *******,  wlio  sat  near  me,  and  who  is 
a  French  writer  of  some  note,  told  me  the  poetry  was 
not  good.  The  prizes  were  then  delivered  agreeably 
to  a  written  statement  of  the  progress  of  the  scholars, 
read  by  one  of  the  teachers.  They  consisted  of  books, 
very  handsomely  bound.  When  the  boy's  name  was 
pronounced,  he  came  to  the  table,  the  prize  was  deli- 
vered to  him  by  an  elderly  gentleman,  and  a  wreath 
of  flowers  put  on  his  head.  A  band  of  music  then 
cheered  him  to  his  seat.  Those  of  the  boys  who  had 
female  relations  present,  went  to  them  and  received 
a  kiss  before  they  sat  down. 

4th.  I  visited  this  morning  several  persons,  prior 
to  my  departure  for  Switzerland.  Among  them  were 
Count  Lasteyrie,  Bishop  Gregoire,  and  the  Abbe 
Gualtier  with  whom  I  had  much  interesting  conver- 
sation relative  to  schools  and  to  the  prejudices  of  the 
clergy  and  people  of  this  country.  These  gentlemen 
are  all  influenced,  I  believe,  by  benevolent  motives, 
and  are  remarkably  free  from  prejudice.  The  two 
former  exert  themselves  notably  in  the  cause,  and 
rejoice  in  the  success,  of  the  system  of  mutual  in- 
struction. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  schools  in  France,  are 
taught  by  a  fraternity,  styled  "  Les  Freres  de  la  Reli- 


280  PARIS. 

gion  Chretienne."  They  assume  a  peculiar  dress,  and 
from  long  custom,  consider  it  their  privilege,  (as  it 
has  become  their  means  of  support,)  to  educate  the 
youth  of  the  country.  These  men  have,  of  course, 
opposed  the  now  system  witli  great  zeal.  It  is  never- 
theless making  its  way  with  rapidity,  and  even  the 
"Freres"  find  that  their  custom,  instead  of  diminish- 
ing, is  increased  by  the  general  stir.  The  schools, 
however,  of  the  new  system,  are  still  confined  to  the 
children  of  Catholics.  The  influence  of  the  priests 
is  so  great,  it  is  thought  necessary  to  conform  to  the 
prejudice,  and  the  Protestants  are,  accordingly,  obli- 
ged to  open  separate  schools  for  their  own  youth. 

Count  Lasteyrie  is  one  of  the  first  who  embarked 
in  this  concern,  and  who  advised  the  formation  of  a 
society  for  the  promotion  of  education,  upon  the  new 
plan.  If  this  had  not  been  done  prior  to  the  king's 
restoration,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  system  could 
have  gained  admission  into  the  country ;  and  were 
it  not  for  the  weight  and  influence  of  the  society,  it 
would  still  have  to  struggle  with  diificulties  almost 
insurmountable. 

5th.  M******  called  this  morning,  and  went  with 
me  to  see  Professor  Berzelius,  of  Stockholm,  who  has 
lately  arrived  here  with  the  Swedish  minister.  He 
is  rather  a  young  man,  of  open  and  pleasing  address, 
and  of  social,  easy  manners.  We  spent  an  hour  and 
a  half  with  him  in  conversation,  on  subjects  of  science. 
He  showed  us  a  portion  of  the  new  metal  called  by 
him  Selenium,  and  exhibited  to  us  some  of  its  pro- 
perties, by  the  blow-pipe.  He  carries  with  him  a 
neat  collection  of  instruments,  for  the  analysis  of 
minerals  in  the  dry  way,  done  up  in  a  folding  leather 


PARIS.  281 

case  of  small  compass.    He  intends  to  remain  in  Paris 
all  winter. 

1  met  to-day  the  Rev.  J.  Owen,  secretary  of  the 
British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society.  He  intends  ma- 
king a  tour  through  some  parts  of  the  continent,  to 
advance  if  possible,  the  cause  in  which  he  has  so  suc- 
cessfully laboured  at  home.  He  has  had  printed  se- 
veral tracts,  in  relation  to  the  Bible,  since  his  arrival 
here.  Nothing  has  yet  been  done  in  Paris,  nor  I  be- 
lieve, in  any  part  of  France,  in  the  way  of  a  society 
to  promote  the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures.  Jesuit- 
ical influence  is  too  powerful,  to  expect  much ;  yet 
there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  wedge  of  reforma- 
tion has  been  entered,  and  that  the  knotty  fibres  of 
opposition  and  prejudice,  may  be  made  gradually  to 
yield  to  the  operation  of  that  Spirit  which  works 
by  love. 

I  received  a  visit  in  my  room  from  Gay  Lussac.  He 
is  a  much  younger  man  than  his  reputation  would 
^ave  induced  me  to  expect.  His  person  and  manners 
are  interesting,  and  his  talents  as  a  chemist  and  phi- 
losopher, of  the  first  order.  He  appears  to  be  inte- 
rested in  the  success  of  elementary  schools.  It  will 
require,  he, observed,  30,000  scliools  to  supply  all 
France,  and  there  is  yet  established  but  about  one- 
sixtieth  of  that  number. 

6th.  A  stranger  in  Paris  will  find  it  more  economi- 
cal, and  generally  more  agreeable,  to  agree  with  his 
landlord,  for  the  accommodation  of  his  lodging-room 
only,  and  to  take  his  meals  without ; — that  is  to  say, 
his  breakfast  at  a  CaflTe,  and  his  dinner  at  a  Restau- 
rateur. Notiiing  can  be  more  convenient  than  those 
eating  houses,  not  only  to  the  immense  concourse  of 


282  PARIS. 

strangers,  that  now  frequent  this  city,  but  to  great 
numbers  of  the  Parisians  themselves.  The  coflTce 
rooms  are  very  rsumorous.  They  are  open  from  eight 
o'clock  (or  earher  in  summer)  till  noon,  or  perhaps 
later.  In  those  of  a  respectable  rank,  the  breakfast 
rooms  are  fitted  up  with  great  neatness,  and  even 
splendour.  Marble  columns,  so  adjusted  as  to  pro- 
duce an  effect^  and  other  ornaments,  are  reflected  by 
numerous  large  mirrors,  tastefully  arranged  around 
the  room.  On  one  side  is  an  elevated  seat,  with  an 
elegant  desk  or  counter  before  it,  frequently  orna- 
mented by  an  impending  canopy.  At  this  seat,  is  sta- 
tioned a  female,  generally  selected  for  her  personal 
attractions.  She  is  the  presiding  genius  of  the  esta- 
blishment, repressing  by  her  presence,  and  by  the 
gentle  but  effectual  superintendence  of  her  eye,  any 
irregularity  or  indecorum  among  her  guests;  and  con- 
trolling the  servants  in  the  discharge  of  their  duties. 
She  rt^ceives,  with  singular  grace,  the  money  of  her 
visiters,  and  replies  to  any  observations  they  mavv' 
make  with  finished  politeness  The  usual  breakfast 
at  those  places,  is  a  large  cup  of  cotlee,  a  fresh  roll  of 
bread,  ?i  flute  or  long  slender  roll  of  a  sweet  and  very 
light  kind  of  bread,  with  a  quantum  sufficit  of  loaf  su- 
gar and  butter.  The  latter  article  is  served  up  in  the 
shape  of  a  long  ribbon,  nicely  laid  in  folds  on  the 
plate.  The  sugar  is  brought  in  a  small  dish  in  lumps, 
and  if  there  be  a  superabundance,  which  is  frequently 
the  case,  the  visiter  assumes  the  liberty,  as  we  very 
often  perceived,  to  put  the  residue  in  his  pocket — a 
singular  practice,  but  sanctioned  by  common  usage. 
The  French  coffee  is  very  superior  to  the  English ; 
and  generally  better  than  we  have  it  in  America.  The 


PARIS.  283 

waiter  at  the  Caffe  enters  with  two  burnished  metallic 
pots,  one  containinj^  hot  coffee,  and  the  other  boiled 
milk.  He  pours  out  the  coffee,  till  directed  to  stop, 
and  then  overflows  the  cup  with  hot  milk.  I  was  not 
before  aware  how  much  the  boiling  of  the  milk  adds 
to  the  richness  and  flavour  of  the  repast.  The  price 
for  such  a  breakfast  is  generally  one  frank,  which  in- 
cludes the  privilege  of  reading  the  newspapers. 

The  Restaurateurs, or  eating  houses, embrace  afar 
more  extensive  range  of  solid  and  fluid  comforts.  On 
entering  one  of  these  houses,  and  seating  one's  self  at 
a  small  table,  covered  with  a  neat  white  cloth,  a 
printed  paper  is  presented,  containing  a  list  of  all  the 
varieties  which  the  house  affords;  potages,  hors  d'oeu- 
vres,  entremets,  fricasees,  ragouts,  patisserie,  and  des- 
serts, with  wines  and  liqueurs  of  all  kinds.  The  price 
of  so  much  as  an  individual  ordinarily  requires,  is  at- 
tached to  each  article.  Hence  a  person  may  call  for 
just  what  he  pleases,  and  pay  for  no  more  than  he 
calls  for.  My  companions  and  myself  have  generally 
taken  our  dinners  at  a  restaurateurs,  kept  within  the 
palace  of  the  Louvre,  by  the  family  of  the  Sw  iss  por- 
ter. The  situation  of  the  room  was  remarkably  fine, 
overlooking  the  Seine  and  its  opposite  bank,  with  the 
Pont  des  Arts  immediately  in  front,  peopled  with  all 
ranks  and  nations.  The  guests  were  waited  upon 
by  two  grown  daughters  of  the  master  of  the  house. 
Their  dress  was  always  neat,  and  in  all  their  atten- 
tions to  the  company,  and  in  every  movement,  there 
was  a  gracefulness  rarely  to  be  met  with,  in  persons 
of  the  same  rank,  either  in  England  or  America. 

The  price  of  a  dinner,  at  such  a  house,  including  a 
di^h  of  soup,  two  dishes  of  meat,-  bread,  vegetabl 


284  PARIS. 

dessert,  and  half  a  bottle  of  wine,  may  vary  from  three 
to  five  francs,  according  to  the  rarity  or  expensiveness 
of  tlie  articles  called  for. 

In  those  eatir^is;  rooms,  one  meets  with  a  p^reat  variety 
of  company  of  both  sexes.  It  is  no  unusual  thing  for 
a  respectable  tradesman,  or  other  decent  citizen,  to 
bring  his  wife  and  children  to  a  restaurateur,  for  an 
occasional  dinner.  It  saves  them  some  trouble  and 
expense  at  home,  and  what  is  probably  of  greater 
consequence,  enables  them  to  see  a  little  more  of  the 
*'  grand  monde."  I  have  not  seen,  in  the  eating  rooms 
of  Paris,  notwithstanding  the  vast  variety  of  character 
one  there  meets  with,  any  other  than  perfect  decency 
of  deportment. 

The  French  are  very  punctilious  in  the  observance 
of  external  civilities.  Politeness  is  interwoven  with 
the  national  temperament  and  character  ;  and  al- 
though it  may  not  extend  much  beyond  the  ceremo- 
nials of  behaviour,  it  is  really  more  agreeable  to  be 
treated  by  a  stranger  with  graceful  ease  and  kindness, 
how  superficial  soever  the  motive,  than,  upon  equal 
terms,  to  experience  only  the  chilling  formalities  of 
indiflference  or  reserve. 

The  city  of  Paris  is  divided  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts  by  the  Seine.  This  river  is  here  considerably  less 
than  the  Thames  in  London,  both  in  width  and  depth. 
It  contains  an  island  of  no  small  dimensions,  near  the 
centre  of  the  town,  connected  with  each  shore  by 
several  stone  bridges.  This  island  is  socompactly  built 
as  to  have  received  the  common  appellation  of  la  Cite. 
The  quays,  or  borders  of  the  river,  furnish  so  differ- 
ent a  scene  from  those  of  New-York,  Philadelphia, 
and  other  commercial  towns,  as  to  strike  every  Ame- 


PARIS.  28c» 

rican  with  the  force  of  the  contrast.  Instead  of  large 
ships  with  their  groves  of  masts,  and  the  noise  and 
bustle  of  carts,  cartmen,  and  porters,  in  the  transpor- 
tation of  bulky  wares  and  merchandize  ;  and  tall  ware- 
houses and  their  counting  rooms,  all  indicative  of  an 
extended  foieign  commerce, — the  river  Seine  contains 
half  a  dozen  or  more  of  large  scow-form  boats,  load- 
ed with  hay  or  charcoal,  quietly  stationed  in  the 
stream :  other  long  boats  are  safely  moored  in  the 
current,  filled  with  washer-women,  whose  tongues  are 
in  as  rapid  motion  as  the  paddles  with  which  the\ 
strike  the  clothes,  while  numerous  batteaux  are  pfying 
from  place  to  place,  on  some  trilling  concern,  either  of 
business  or  amusement.  A  thick  wall,  three  or  four  feet 
high  above  the  pavement,  protects  the  foot  passenger 
from  the  river,  throughout  the  whole  length,  nearly,  of 
the  city.  The  top  of  this  wall,  excepting  in  very  bad 
weather,  is  covered  v.ith  books,  to  the  extent,  proba- 
bly, of  miles.  Numerous  shambles  are  also  placed 
along  the  wall,  on  which  are  exposed  for  sale,  a  mosi 
curious  variety  of  articles,  old  and  new,  and  mostly  at 
very  moderate  prices  ;  with  them  are  intermingled, 
show-men  and  show-women,  tricks  of  various  kinds, 
fruit  and  other  eatables,  lemonade  and  liqueurs  carried 
on  men's  backs,  in  long  tin  vessels,  and  other  etcete- 
ras, in  a  most  diverting  profusion.  I  have  been  re- 
ally surprised  at  the  prodigious  number  of  books 
that  are  printed  and  offered  for  sale  in  this  city.  Not 
only  are  the  book  stores  large  and  numerous,  but  the 
quays,  the  boulevards,  and  other  public  places,  are  re- 
plete with  shambles  and  shelves,  loaded  with  books 
Rare  and  valuable  works,  in  almost  every  department 
of  literature,  may  often  be  obtained  at  those  places 
Vol.  I.  2i 


286  PARIS. 

at  very  moderate  prices.  Print  shops,  and  exhibitions 
of  prints,  are  more  numerous  in  Paris,  than  in  any 
place  I  have  seen.  The  French  deHght  in  carica- 
tures; and  they  get  them  up  in  a  style  of  great  point 
and  humour  ;  though  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  they 
are  too  seldom  designed  to  produce  a  moral  effect. 
Tiiat  sketches  of  this  nature  may  be  rendered  subser- 
vient to  serious  moral  impressions,  has  been  proved 
by  Hogarth  ;  and  it  might  be  the  occasion  of  surprise, 
that  so  few  attempts  have  been  made,  to  follow  up 
the  plan  of  pictorial  tales  of  instruction,  so  ably  com- 
menced by  this  great  painter,  did  we  not  know,  that 
it  is  chiefly  the  weak  part  of  our  nature, — a  taste  for 
the  ludicrous  and  the  witty, — that  derives  pleasure 
from  those  inferior  productions  of  the  graphic  art. 

The  national  antipathy  to  English  habits  are  shown 
in  the  French  caricatures.  In  our  boyhood  we  were 
taught,  by  the  tales  we  read,  to  consider  a  French- 
man, living  upon  his  soups  and  frogs,  as  a  meagre 
creature  indeed,  compared  with  the  rotund  figure  of 
a  beef-eating  subject  of  John  Bull's  dominion.  But 
in  Paris,  they  just  reverse  the  picture — and  in  a 
print  now  very  fashionable  on  the  Boulevards,  an 
Englishman  is  represented,  coming  to  France,  in  the 
form  of  a  tall  walking  skeleton,  with  an  eager  and  anx- 
ious countenance;  and  after  spending  some  time  in- 
dustriously among  the  Restaurateurs,  he  is  seen  on 
his  return,  pushing  a  wheel-barrow  before  him,  on 
which  the  anterior  portion  of  his  mortal  fabric,  now 
so  enlarged,  finds  a  convenient  and  necessary  support. 

Very  few  Englishmen,  and  still  fewer  Americans, 
will  be  induced  to  consider  Paris,  on  the  whole,  as  an 
elegant  city.      The  gardens  and  public  squares,  the 


PARIS.  287 

palaces  and  private  hotels  of  the  nobility,  and  of 
some  wealthy  citizens,  are  in  a  style  of  magnificence 
unequalled,  as  i  believe,  by  any  town  or  city  in  Great 
Britain;  and  in  the  United  States,  we  have  certain- 
ly nothing  that  bears  any  comparison  with  them. 
The  Boulevards,  also,  combine  the  advantages  of 
a  wide  and  beautiful  promenade,  with  a  display  of 
superb  mansions,  public  fountains,  tea  gardens,  shops, 
&c.  They  consist  of  a  very  wide  street,  which  extends 
in  an  irregular  circle,  nearly  around  the  whole  city, 
forming  a  circumference  of  almost  seven  miles.  Two 
rows  of  majestic  elms  grow  upon  each  side,  whose 
branches  almost  interlace  each  other,  forming  a  na- 
tural arcade  on  each  side  of  the  centre.  The  space 
between  them  is  gravelled,  for  the  benefit  of  foot  pas- 
sengers. This  extended  and  remarkable  promenade, 
was  once  the  boundary  of  the  city,  and  at  that  time 
was  covered  with  turf,  and  much  resorted  to  for  play- 
ing at  bowls  ;  hence  the  name  Boulevard, — an  abre- 
viation  of  "-boules  sur  le  vert."  This  is,  in  all  pro- 
bability, the  most  commodious,  and  most  frequented 
public  walk  in  Europe.  Here  all  classes  have  the 
liberty  of  amusing  themselves;  and  it  is  here  that  the 
gayety  of  Paris  is  witnessed  in  its  most  variegated 
forms.  In  the  afternoon  and  evening,  these  walks  are 
lined  with  a  double  or  treble  row  of  chairs,  which 
can  be  hired  by  the  passengers  for  a  sous  each — a 
rate  so  cheap,  that  the  fashionable  lounger  can  some- 
times afford  to  appropriate  five  of  them  to  his  indul- 
gence, one  tor  his  body  and  one  for  each  of  his  four 
limbs,  while  the  motley  group  which  surrounds  him, 
contributes  not  a  little  to  his  entertainment.  In  this 
multifarious  assemblage,  are  ballad  singers  j  dancers. 


288  PARIS. 

both  children  and  dogs:  conjurors;  puppet  shows; 
merry  Andrews, and  fortune  tellers;  men  with  castles 
inhabited  by  white  mice,  which  play  a  thousand  antics 
in  its  diiferent  apartments;  fortresses  guarded  by  a 
regiment  of  Canary  birds,  which  perlbrm  their  evolu- 
tions with  great  precision  ;  caricaturists  or  grimaciers, 
who  change  their  faces  into  a  rapid  succession  of  odd 
and  singularly  grotesque  forms,  which  no  risible  mus- 
cles can  well  withstand  :  these,  and  many  other  con- 
trivances, are  performed  with  unwearied  exertions  to 
please,  and  by  persons  thankful  for  the  voluntary 
sous  which  may  be  thrown  them.  Intermingled  with 
these  tricks,  is  a  display  of  fruit  women  and  flower 
girls,  musicians,  hydrostatic  experiments,  and  other 
allurements,  which  convert  the  Boulevards  of  Paris 
into  a  place  of  daily  amusement,  highly  characteris- 
tic of  the  people  of  this  metropolis  and  nation. 

But  abstracting  these  public  places  and  buildings, 
Paris  has  no  external  attractions  to  recommend  it. 
The  houses  are  very  high,  and  of  a  clumsy  and  anti- 
quated style  of  architecture.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row, dark,  and  dir(y ;  and  without  sidewalks  for  foot 
passengers.  They  are  excessively  crowded  by  wheel 
carriages,  and  pedestrians  of  all  descriptions;  espe- 
cially women  and  children.  The  safest  place  to 
walk,  is  generally  in  the  middle  of  the  street ;  but 
it  requires  no  little  care  and  dexterity,  to  avoid  the 
contact  of  wheels  ;  or,  at  best,  the  mud  and  dirt  that 
dy  from  them.  The  axletrees  of  the  carts,  too,  pro- 
ject outwards  to  an  enormous  and  needless  length, 
ami  increase  the  danger. 

The  shops  are  not,  in  common,  so  elegantly  dressed 
out  as  in  London  ;  yet  those  in  the  Palais  Royal,  and 


PARIS.  289 

&  few  other  places,  are  as  sumptuous  and  attractive 
as  the  most  splendid  fabrics,  artfully  and  tastefully  ar- 
ranged, can  possibly  render  them. 

There  is  a  curious  jumbling  together,  too,  of  odd 
circumstances  in  France.  The  same  associations  do 
not  seem  to  prevail  here,  that  we  find  on  the  other 
side  of  the  channel,  or  of  the  Atlantic.  A  whole  fa- 
mily will  live  in  splendour  in  the  fourth  story  of  a 
house.  A  number  of  gentlemen's  houses  open  into 
one  and  the  same  front  court,  which  communicates 
with  the  street  by  a  massive  gate.  The  stables  are 
often  found  under  the  same  roof  with  the  owner  and 
his  family  ;  so  that  while  the  minister  or  peer  is  enter- 
tertaining  his  guests  in  a  superbly  furnished  saloon 
in  the  second  story,  his  horses  are  enjoying  their  re- 
past in  the  apartments  immediately  below. 

We  have  seen  no  reason  to  believe  that  the  opi- 
nions entertained  in  Paris,  relative  to  the  Christian 
Sabbath,  are  different  from  those  which  we  were  in- 
duced to  suspect  on  our  first  entrance.  There  are 
few,  very  few  indeed,  who  appear  to  regard  it  as  a 
day  peculiarly  designed  for  worship.  The  Catho- 
lic churches  are  open,  and  a  priest  is  in  attendance 
every  day,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  incline  to 
present  themselves  before  the  altar;  and  every  per- 
son is  at  liberty  to  go  at  such  times  as  he  may  feel  his 
mind  most  strongly  impelled  to  the  performance  of 
this  duty.  It  is  only  on  feast  days,  that  the  obligation 
is  considered  stronger  than  ordinary,  to  assemble  in 
the  churches;  and  those  fetes  are  as  likely  to  fall 
upon  any  other  day  of  the  week,  as  upon  the  first. 
This  day  seems,  accordingly,  to  be  regarded  as  the 
signal  of  a  relaxation  from  business,  and  a  devotion 

24* 


290  PARIS. 

to  amusement  and  pleasure.  But  where  there  is  no 
actual  prohibition  against  labour,  industry  or  avarice 
will  prompt  many  to  continue  their  Mork.  Hence, 
during  the  forepart  of  the  day,  but  little  difTerence 
is  observable  between  this  and  other  days.  The 
shops  are  open,  mechanics  are  at  their  employment, 
and  the  streets  exhibit  the  usual  stir  of  business 
and  activity.  But  in  the  afternoon,  the  instruments 
of  labour  are  laid  aside,  and  instruments  of  music 
take  their  place.  The  gardens,  boulevards,  and 
other  public  places,  are  thronged  with  the  giddy 
multitude.  The  theatres  are  all  crowded,  illumina- 
tions take  place,  and  dancing  and  festivities  conclude, 
at  a  late  hour,  the  Parisian  mode  of  observing  the 
Christian  Sabbath. 

The  present  king  has  attempted,  by  special  de- 
crees, to  prevent  these  excesses  ;  but  the  current  of 
popular  feeling  appears  to  be  too  strong  to  be  thus 
resisted. 

What,  it  will  naturally  be  asked  by  the  sober 
Christian,  is  the  result  of  all  this.'*  Can  the  dedica- 
tion of  one  day  in  seven  to  the  worship  of  the  Al- 
mighty, and  to  the  exercise  of  pious  contemplation 
and  communion,  be  dispensed  with,  without  an  obvi- 
ous dereliction  of  religious  faith  and  practice,  and 
a  consequent  relaxation  and  abandonment  of  moral 
principle  ?  What  is  the  actual  state  of  religion  in 
such  a  country  } 

It  would,  perhaps,  be  presumption  in  me,  to  attempt 

to  reply  to  these  questions,  with  such  limited  oppor- 

»tunities  of  judging,  as  a  month's  residence  in  France 

must  be  supposed  to  atTord.     I  can   only,  therefore, 

i5tate  my  impressions,  as  derived  from  the  facts  pre- 


PARIS.  291 

sented  to  my  notice.  I  have  several  times  entered 
the  churches,  when  I  have  found  them  open,  as  stran- 
gers are  always  at  liberty  to  do.  A  few  persons,  (and 
seldom  more  than  a  few,)  were  seen  kneeling  on  the 
pavement,  in  different  parts  of  the  building,  either 
intent  on  the  priest,  as  he  moved  about  the  altar, 
bowing  and  kneeling  before  the  crucifix,  and  repeat- 
ing the  different  parts  of  his  formula;  or  pondering 
over  the  books  which  they  held  in  their  hands,  and 
occasionally  reciting  parts  of  them  in  a  low  voice. 
On  the  countenances  of  some  of  these,  devotion 
seemed  to  be  strongly  marked  ;  and  not  unfrequently 
were  they  wrapt  in  grief  But  by  far  the  greater  num- 
ber of  those  whom  I  thus  noticed  in  the  churches, 
were  persons  of  the  lower  classes  of  society,  and 
most  of  them  females.  Never,  excepting  on  some 
special  occasion,  was  the  number  of  assembled  wor- 
shippers very  considerable,  and  rarely  did  it  compre- 
hend people  of  genteel  condition.  That  persons  in 
the  higher  ranks  of  society,  are  not  at  all  in  the  prac- 
tical performance  of  public  religious  worship,  1  by  no 
means  assert.  My  means  of  information  have  been 
too  limited  to  enable  me  to  form  a  judgment.  But 
from  all  that  has  appeared  during  my  stay  in  Paris,  I 
might  safely  draw  the  inference,  that  a  single  large 
place  of  worship,  would  be  sufficient  to  contain  all 
the  devoted  Christians,  who  punctually  attend  to  thai 
duty,  in  this  great  city.  With  regard  to  the  general 
morality  of  the  people,  I  may  be  prepared,  perhaps. 
to  form  a  more  correct  judgment  hereafter. 


292 


JOURNEY  PROM 


LETTER    Xn. 

Geneva^  ^th  month  (Septem,)  17,  1818. 

My  DEAR  *****  AND  ****, 

Having  agreed  with  my  friend  and  fellow  passen- 
ger, *  *.  *****  of  Philadelphia,  whom  f  met  here  after 
our  separation  in  London,  to  accompany  him  to  Swit- 
zerland, we  took  our  departure  from  Paris,  on  the 
8th,  in  a  neat  travelling  carriage,  which  he  had 
obtained  at  Brussels.  We  were  joined  by  a  gentle- 
man of  Boston,  journeying  like  ourselves,  for  health 
and  information.  We  have  also  a  Flemish  servant, 
which  my  friend  *.  *.  *,  had  engaged  at  Brussels; 
one  of  those  honest  and  handy  creatures,  who  are  in 
the  practice  of  hiring  themselves  to  travellers  as  ser- 
vants, interpreters,  and  pioneers,  through  the  different 
countries  of  Europe.  Persons  of  this  class,  when 
they  have  acquired  an  established  reputation  for  ho- 
nesty and  fidelity,  prove  extremely  serviceable  to 
those  that  engage  them.  They  acquire  in  their  va- 
rious journeys  a  great  deal  of  local  and  general  infor- 
mation, which  it  is  their  interest  and  pleasure  freely 
to  communicate.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  a 
traveller,  to  be  previously  well  assured  of  their  in- 
tegrity; for  it  is  continually  in  their  power,  if  they 
are  so  disposed,  by  collusions  with  innkeepers  or  their 
servants,  to  defraud  their  employers.  There  are, 
besides,  many  things  that  will  necessarily  be  en- 
trusted to  their  discretion,  which  involve,  not  only 
the  pecuniary  interest,  but  the  comfort  and  safety  of 
the  traveller. 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  293 

Our  carriage  being  a  calash,  and  fitted  with  a  shaft, 
it  comes  under  the  denomination  of  a  ^  Limoniere," 
and  we  are  permitted  to  go  with  three  horses,  one  in 
the  shaft  and  one  on  each  side,  driven  by  a  postilHon, 
ridingthe  near horse,and equipped  with  a  pairof  boots, 
into  which  a  small  man  might  jump  from  the  height  of 
several  feet.  The  structure  of  these  boots,  it  is  presu- 
mable, has  not  varied  since  the  time  of  Louis  le  Gros. 
They  are  more  clumsy  and  heavy  than  any  one  would 
believe  who  had  never  seen  them,  and  yet  they  are  worn 
generally  by  the  postillions  in  France.  Our  horses 
were  not  bad,  and  being  well  adjusted  to  our  elegant 
new  carriage  with  strong  ropes^  we  cleared  the  city  by  the 
Barriere  d'ltalie.  and  flattered  ourselves  that  the  dust 
of  a  protracted  drought,  had  been  effectually  laid  by 
a  smart  shower  which  f^U  in  the  city  before  we  left  it; 
but  we  found  that  the  rain  had  not  reached  much  be- 
yond the  walls,  and  that  clouds  of  dust  must  be  our 
portion.  The  road  was  very  straight  and  wide,  with  a 
broad  pave  in  the  middle,  and  ornamented  with  rows 
of  elms,  trimmed  nearly  to  the  top.  The  ti-dds  are 
entirely  without  enclosiu-es,  and  appeared  very  brown, 
from  the  long  contitiued  dry  weather.  1  remarked, 
however,  that  the  lucern  was  very  green  and  thrifty. 
Whether  this  grass  always  sustains  a  drought  better 
than  clover,  is  a  question  of  some  importance  in  prac- 
tical farming,  and  which  I  cannot  at  present  solve. 
The  country  in  general  is  level,  and  well  cultivated. 
Numerous  chateaux  appeared  in  sight,  and  village 
after  village  kept  our  attention  alive.  We  passed 
through  Ville  Juif,  Fromenteau,  Essonne,  Pon- 
thlerre,  and  Chailly;  at  each  of  which  places  there  is 
a  post  royal,  and  a  relay  of  horses.     We  pay  for  the 


294  JOURNEY  PROM 

three  horses  six  francs  per  post,  and  to  the  postillion 
thirty  sous,  equal  to  one  and  a  half  francs.  Occasion- 
ally, for  extraordinary  driving  or  cleverness,  we  may 
pay  more.  The  law  allows  them  but  fifteen  sous  per 
post,  but  custom  has  taken  the  liberty  to  double  it, 
and  her  dictates  are  much  more  imperious  than  some 
of  the  royal  mandates;  that,  for  example,  which  en- 
joins the  good  citizens  of  Paris  to  keep  their  shops 
shut  on  the  Sabbath  day,  Essonne  is  a  handsome  vil- 
lage, of  J  />00  inhabitants.  In  its  immediate  neighbour- 
hood are  several  manufactories  of  printed  calicoes 
and  woollet)goods.  with  some  chemical  establishments. 
A  little  beyond  Chailly  we  entered  the  forest  of  Fon- 
tainebleau.  In  order  to  avoid  the  rough  pavement,  and 
the  sand  on  each  side,  we  took  a  by  road  among  the 
trees;  and,  for  the  first  time  since  I  have  been  in  Eu- 
rope, could  I  easily  have  fancied  myself  in  one  of  our 
native  woods.  Nature  indeed  has  been  but  little  dis- 
turbed in  ihis  forest  forages.  The  trees,  when  much 
striken  with  age,  or  symptoms  of  decay,  are  cut  down, 
and  converted  into  fire  wood.  They  are  large  and 
majestic,  consisting  principally  of  beech  and  elm. 
This  forest  is  twelve  leagues  in  circumference.  It  has 
for  ages  been  a  favourite  resort  of  the  French  mo- 
narchs,  for  the  pleasure  of  the  chase.  The  wild  boar 
has  still  his  haunts  in  its  shades.  The  same  trees  have 
extended  their  branches  over  the  forest  parties  of 
Louis  VII.  and  Louis  XVI.,  of  Henry  IV.  and  of  Na- 
poleon. In  some  places,  as  if  to  remind  us  still  more 
of  home,  the  wood,  which  had  been  felled,  was  cut 
into  lengths,  and  piled  or  corded  just  as  in  our  woods. 
The  surface  of  the  forest  is  very  broken,  and  its  geo- 
logical features  appeared  difTerent  from  any  thing  I 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  295 

had  ever  seen.  Very  large  rocks  cover  the  ground  in 
some  places,  in  rounded  masses,  exceeding  in  size  any 
of  the  boulders  I  ever  saw  in  America.*  They  give 
an  aspect  of  grandeur  to  the  forest  landscape.  The 
chalk  hills,  w  hich  so  much  prevailed  on  the  other  side 
of  Paris,  have  not  appeared  in  this  day's  ride. 

We  arrived  at  Fontainebleau,  fourteen  and  a  half 
French  leagues  from  Paris,  at  6  p.  m.  This  tow^n,  con- 
taining about  9000  inhabitants,  completely  surrounded 
as  it  is  by  the  forest,  may  be  considered  as  a  Royal 
exotic,  planted  here  for  the  purpose  of  gratifying  the 
senses  of  majesty,  in  its  hours  of  pleasurable  indul- 
gence. The  chateau,  or  palace,  has  been  built  at  va- 
rious disjointed  epochs,  and  by  monarchs  of  very  dif- 
ferent fancies.  The  architecture  of  diflferent  parts  is 
extremely  dissimilar.  It  is  a  large  palace,  sufficient 
to  contain,  I  should  conjecture,  several  hundred  fami- 
lies, allowing  to  each  as  much  space  as  a  common 
dwelling  house.  The  gardens,  in  which  we  walked, 
are  extensive,  and  kept  in  good  order.  They  contain 
no  statues,  nor  did  we  see  any  jets-d'eaux ;  but  there 
are  several  beautiful  fountains,  large,  and  of  various 
shapes,  in  which  swans  were  moving  with  their  accus- 
tomed grace  and  beauty.  In  one  of  them,  a  brood  of 
young  swans,  nearly  grown,  accompanied  the  old  ones. 
Their  plumage  was  a  dusky  brown,  that  of  the  old 
ones,  perfectly  white.  We  put  up  at  the  Hotel  du 
Ville  de  Lyon,  a  neat  and  tolerably  decent  inn,  and  I 
believe  the  most  respectable  in  the  place. 

9th.    In  every  well  furnished  bedroom  in  France, 

*  I  siace  find  that  there  are  rocks  of  this  description  even  within  the  limit? 
of  the  city  of  New-York,  probably  (jivite  as  large  as  those  iu  the  forest  oV 
Fontsiinelileao. 


296  JOURNEY    FROM 

which  T  have  seen,  there  is  a  neat  and  very  convenieni 
secretary,  besides  a  case  of  drawers  for  clothes.     An 
Itahan  princess,  from  Rome,  and  her  attendants,  were 
our  inmates  at  the  inn.     They  were  travelhng  in  two 
carriages,  drawn  by  black  mules.     The  forest  conti- 
nued  for  some  miles  south  of  Fontainebleau.     At  a 
league  distant,  we  passed  a  cross,  erected  on  the  spot 
where  Napoleon  met  the  Pope,  in  his  journey  from 
Rome,  to  attend  the  consecration.     How  fit  an  em- 
blem, is  this  post,  of  the  instability  of  worldly  things! 
Nemours,  four  leagues  from  Fontainebleau,  is  a  town 
of  5000  inhabitants,  on  the  river  Loing.     1  was  pleas- 
ed to  see,  as  we  rode  through  it,  in  large  letters  on  a 
neat  building,  "Ecole  d'enseigment  mutuel:"    it  af- 
fords one  evidence,  at  least,  that  this  system  is  begin- 
ning to  spread  through  the  country.     To  Croisiere, 
three  leagues.     The  hilly,  and  wild  appearance  of  the 
country,  about  the  forest,  has  changed  to  a  level  and 
fertile  champain.     To  Fontenai,    two    leagues,    and 
thence  to  Puits-le-Laude,  two  more.     A  beautiful  ca- 
nal borders   the   river  Loing,  and   is  fed  by  it.     To 
Montargis,  two  leagues.     We  passed  two  very  large 
manuflictories  of  paper,  on  the  Loing,  established  by 
Duperron.     Montargis  contains  6  or  7000  inhabitants. 
This  town  was  anciently  called  the  cradle  of  France, 
because,  on  account  of  the  purity  of  its  climate,  the 
queens  resorted   to  its  castle,  previous  to   their  ac- 
couchement.    This  castle  was  built  by  Charles  V.,  but 
it  is  now  in  a  state  of  dilapidation.     It  contained  a 
hall,  13.5  feet  long,  with  various  ancient  paintings  in 
frescoe,  and  among  them  the  famous  dog  of  Montargis. 
The  revolution  destroyed  the  castle  and  the  pictures. 
The  climate  of  this  region,  is  said  to  have  become 


PARIS    TO    GENEVA.  297 

much  less  salubrious,  since  the  canal  was  erected. 
To  Briare,  six  leagues.  The  country  is  uninviting  and 
sterile,  till  we  approach  this  town,  when  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Loire  opens  to  our  view.  It  is  here, 
however,  a  narrow  stream,  with  an  unusual  extent  of 
flat  sandy  bottom  on  each  side.  The  whole  of  this 
wide  bed,  is  no  doubt  covered  by  the  river,  when  the 
waters  are  raised  by  continued  rains.  At  this  place, 
the  canal  which  joins  the  Seine  and  the  Loire,  opens 
into  the  latter  by  several  locks.  It  was  the  first  un- 
dertaking of  the  kind  in  France,  and  was  worthy  of 
the  great  Sully,  by  whom  it  was  planned.  Through 
Boni  to  Neuvi,  four  leagues;  and  from  Neuvi  to 
Cosne,  three  and  a  half  These  are  towns  containing 
from  1 500  to  4000  people.  Cosne  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable manufacturing  industry.  We  arrived  here 
about  6,  P.  M.  and  as  soon  as  we  could  disengage 
ourselves,  from  the  crowd  of  females  that  surround- 
ed the  carriage,  urging  us  with  vehemence  to  buy 
some  of  the  articles  made  in  the  place,  which  they 
exhibited  to  our  notice,  we  went  to  view  an  anchor 
forge,  at  which  the  largest  anchors  in  Europe,  are 
said  to  be  manufactured.  The  superintendent,  (as  he 
appeared  to  be,)  complied  immediately  with  my  re- 
quest to  see  the  establishment,  and  conducted  us  to 
several  shops,  containing  forges,  tilt-hammers,  &c., 
and  explained  the  manner  in  which  the  prodigiously 
large  masses  of  wrought  iron,  which  compose  the 
body  and  branches  of  the  anchors,  are  firmly  united 
together,  so  as  to  form  a  solid  and  compact  whole. 
He  showed  us  a  great  number  of  anchors,  each  of 
which  were  stamped  with  the  weight  of  about  5100 
killograms==l  1 .350  lbs,,  or  five  tons  nearly.  My  ques- 
VoL.  I.  25 


298  JOURNEY    FROM 

tions  being  rather  particular,  he  looked  at  me  ear- 
nestly, and  remarked,  '•  Vous  etes  Anglais  sans  doutes." 
"Non,  nous  sommes  Americains."  At  this  his  counte- 
nance brightened,  he  expressed  his  surprise,  and  re- 
doubled his  attentions ;  remarking,  that  he  had  be- 
fore "  had  the  honour  of  conversing  with  Americans." 
Cutlery  is  made  here  of  a  fine  quality.  Cosne,  is  im- 
mediately on  the  Loire.  From  thence  to  Pouilly. 
three  and  a  half  leagues,  and  to  La  Charite,  three 
leagues  further.  We  arrived  at  this  last  place,  about 
nine  in  the  evening,  in  a  shoWer  of  rain ;  and  found, 
in  the  large  kitchen  of  a  good  inn,  a  cheering  wood 
tire,  which,  with  the  shape  of  the  fire-place,  reminded 
us  of  an  old  fashioned  New-Jersey  farm  house.  The 
hostess  and  her  domestics,  were  very  civil.  They 
soon  prepared  for  us  two  omelets,  and  some  boiled 
milk ;  placing,  as  is  always  customary  in  France,  a 
bottle  of  wine  on  the  table.  At  all  the  inns  we  have 
been  at,  the  female  is  the  principal  manager.  In  al- 
most every  department  of  active  life,  they  know  how 
to  direct  and  manage  without  the  interference  of  men. 
I  noticed,  on  the  road  to-day,  a  young  woman  driving 
a  team,  with  a  load  of  wood.  The  country  through 
which  we  have  just  passed,  abounds  in  grapes,  which 
are  now  nearly  ready  for  the  vintage. 

10th.  We  left  LaCharite before  6.  This  placederives 
its  name  it  is  said,  from  the  numerous  alms  which  were 
formerly  distributed  in  it,  from  a  convent  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. Its  population  is  about  4000.  After  pass- 
ing Pougues,  we  ascended  towards  Nevers.  Here 
the  aspect  of  the  country  changed  greatly  for  the  bet- 
ter. Instead  of  a  landscape,  rather  sterile  and  unin- 
teresting, we  are  presented  with  a  valley,  rich  in  grain 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  299 

and  fruits,  with  hills  on  each  side  covered  with  vines. 
Nevers  is  seated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Nievre  and 
Loire.  It  is  an  old  town;  the  streets  are  crooked, 
and  the  buildings,  like  most  of  those  in  France,  have 
nothing  of  that  air  of  neatness  and  comfort,  to  which 
we  are  accustomed  at  home.  A  new  and  splendid 
crucifix,  with  a  group  of  figures,  representing  the  wo- 
men standing  over  the  body  of  our  Saviour,  just  ta- 
ken from  the  cross,  attracted  our  notice  on  entering 
the  town.  There  is  some  appearance  of  commerce 
at  this  place ;  and  our  guide  informs  us  there  are  se- 
veral kinds  of  manufactories  carried  on  here,  particu- 
larly earthen  ware,  glass,  and  enamel.  Of  the  latter 
we  had  a  convincing  proof  in  the  importunate  appli- 
cation of  a  genteel  woman,  who,  at  our  breakfast  table, 
spread  before  us  two  boxes  of  ware  of  very  nice 
workmanship,  and  with  great  insinuation,  urged  us  to 
buy.  There  are  also  various  operations  connected 
with  the  working  of  iron  ore,  which  is  obtained  at  no 
great  distance.  Nevers  has  a  population  of  12,000. 
Magni,  St.  Pierre,  Le  Moutier,  St.  Imbert,  and  Ville- 
neuve  sur  Allier,  are  stations  where  we  changed  hor- 
ses. They  are  villages  of  different  sizes,  and  all 
situated  in  a  charming  and  fertile  country.  Yet  at 
every  stopping  place  we  are  accosted  by  men,  wo- 
men, and  children,  uttering,  in  a  doleful  tone  of  voice, 
"  Votre  charite  Messieurs,  s'il  vous  plait,  pour  un 
pauvre  miserable."  Mendicity  in  France  is  a  regu- 
lar profession.  A  gentleman  in  Paris  informed  me, 
that  in  the  course  of  an  investigation  in  which  he 
was  concerned,  some  years  ago,  they  discovered  that 
a  certain  family  of  mendicants  who  occupied  an  up- 
per room  in  one  of  the  obscure  houses  of  the  metro- 


300  JOURNEY  FROM 

polis,  had  depended  upon  begging,  a5  a  family  resource, 
for  100  years.  The  business  had  descended  regular- 
ly from  parents  to  children  through  several  genera- 
tions. 

The  next  town  which  we  entered  was  Moulins. 
agreeably  situated  on  the  Allier,  a  river  which  joins 
the  Loire  just  below  Nevers.  Moulins  contains  13 
or  14,000  inhabitants.  It  is  famous  for  its  cutlery :  of 
this  the  traveller  is  generally  informed  immediately 
on  the  arrival  of  his  carriage,  by  a  score  of  women, 
young  and  old,  who  open  their  boxes  and  ply  him 
with  the  most  pertinacious  and  dexterous  intreaties 
to  purchase  their  wares.  Knives,  scissors,  razors, 
&c.  of  the  most  curious  and  delicate  construction,  are 
offered  at  double  their  value,  with  an  intention  to  take 
what  they  are  really  worth.  It  being  a  rainy  day,  we 
had  to  contend  with  only  two  or  three  of  these  black- 
eyed  suitors.  The  streets  and  houses  of  this  town, 
though  wider  and  better  than  those  of  Nevers,  are 
crooked  and  inconvenient.  This  town  is  the  capital 
of  the  Bourbonnais.  Upon  leaving  it,  we  proceeded 
along  the  Allier,  through  the  villages  of  Bessai,  and 
Varennes,  to  St.  Gerand,  where  we  concluded  to 
abide  till  to-morrow. 

The  country  through  which  we  have  travelled  to- 
day, more  especially  since  we  left  Nevers,  has  been 
as  beautiful  and  smiling  as  any  part  of  the  world  I 
have  been  in.  A  heavy  rain  during  the  day  did  not 
prevent  us  from  indulging  in  frequent  terms  of  admi- 
ration, of  the  prospects  of  hill,  valley,  cultivation,  fer- 
tility and  beauty,  which  were  continually  apparent 
It  is  remarkable  for  the  excellence  of  its  fruit,  the 
beauty  of  its  women,  the  curious  figure  of  their  straw 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  301 

hats,  shaped  like  a  hoat,  and  their  wooden  shoes. 
These  clumsj,  clogging  shoes  are  still  in  general  use 
in  manj  parts  of  France.  They  make  a  very  unplea- 
sant noise  on  the  pavement  and  floor,  but  they  have 
the  recommendation  of  durability  and  cheapness. 
Perceiving  a  decent  man  with  a  better  pair  on  than 
ordinary,  I  asked  him  the  cost ;  he  replied  ten  sous. 
They  are  also  drier  than  shoes  of  leather.  The  fe- 
males wear  caps  from  their  childhood,  without  dis- 
continuance. The  male  peasants  in  this  part  of 
France,  carry  very  broad  brimmed  hats,  some  of  them 
I  think,  two  feet  in  diameter.  They  appear  to  be  a 
civil,  polite  people.  Great  quantities  of  nuts,  of  the 
kind  we  call  English  walnuts,  are  cultivated  here.  The 
tree,  (Juglano  Regia,)  is  ornamental  as  well  as  useful. 
Much  of  this  day's  ride  has  reminded  us  of  Amer- 
ica, from  the  width  of  the  road,  the  general  features 
of  the  country,  and  the  better  style  of  farming  which 
prevails.  Oxen  are  used  in  ploughing.  I  observed 
three  pair  attached  to  one  plough,  where  the  soil  was 
such,  that  in  New-Jersey,  two  horses  would  be  con- 
sidered as  an  ample  team.  The  oxen  draw  by  the 
head  and  not  by  the  shoulders.  A  mat  of  straw  is 
placed  on  the  forehead,  and  a  band  of  leather  or  cor- 
dage is  put  over  it  and  made  fast  round  the  horns  to 
the  yoke,  which  rests  on  the  neck.  This  yoke  is  fas- 
tened to  a  pole  or  tongue,  chains  not  being  used. 
Upon  our  arrival  at  St.  Gerand,  we  were  recommend- 
ed to  the  Maison  de  Poste,  as  the  best  inn.  An  active 
and  polite  little  landlady  displayed  her  rooms  with 
brick  floors,  her  beds,  and  her  salle  a  manger,  assu- 
ring us,  we  should  be  "  bien  content"  with  her  fare. 
Some  pigeons  that  were  on  the  spit,  and  a  fine  rabbit 

25* 


302  JOURNEY  FROI\I 

that  the  "bon  homme"  was  skinning,  so  quickened 
our  appetites,  that  we  determine*!  upon  having  a  good 
supper,  before  we  had  stipulated  for  the  price. 

11th.  After  a  breakfast  on  genuine  French  coffee, 
which  is  always  good,  and  paying  a  bill  of  thirty-five 
francs,  from  which,  enormous  as  it  was,  there  was  no 
appeal,  we  pursued  ourjourney  through  the  post  towns 
of  Palisse,  a  considerable  village,  with  an  old  chateau; 
Droiturier,  a  poor  place;  St.  Martin  d'Estreaux;  Pa- 
caudiere,  and  St.  Germain  TEspinasse.    None  of  these 
are  places  of  much  importance.     The  same  general 
want  of  neatness  and  attention  to  external  appear- 
ance, which   prevails  in   the  northwest  of  France, 
is  found  here.     The    country    becomes  more   hilly 
as    we    advance.      At    the    last    mentioned    town, 
hills  appeared  that  deserve  the  name  of  mountains; 
and  before  we  entered  Roanne,  our  next  post,  the 
lofty  summit  of  the  Puy  de  Dome,  covered  with  snow, 
made  a  magnificent  appearance  in  the  southwestern 
horizon.     Roanne  is  one  of  the  finest  towns  we  have 
seen  since  leaving  Fontainebleau.    It  has  a  population 
of  13,000,  and  is  charmingly  seated  on  the  Loire, 
near  the  head  of  its  navigation.     A  vast  number  of 
boats  were  stationed  in  the  river,  all  without  sails, 
and  of  a  peculiar  construction.     Many  of  these  are 
employed  in  transporting  pit-coal  from  mines  situated 
higher  up.     The  market  was  full  as  we  rode  through ; 
but  many  more  women  than  men  are  to  be  seen  on  all 
such  occasions.     Among  the  articles   displayed    in 
the  shops,  as  we  ride  through  these  country  towns, 
our  attention  is  sometimes  drawn  by  the  appearance 
of  large  shoe  stores  in  which  a  piece  of  leather  could 
not  be  found.      These  sabots  are  in  general  demand. 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  303 

The  female  peasants  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
have  a  mode  of  spinning  which  enables  them  to  per- 
form the  operation  as  they  walk  the  streets  and  roads. 
The  distaff,  hnving  a  long  handle,  is  held  under  the 
left  arm.  The  spool  terminates  at  one  end  in  an  iron 
pin,  pointed  and  made  rough,  so  that  with  the  thumb 
and  finger  of  the  right  hand,  a  rapid  twirl  is  easily 
given  to  it,  which  Jraws  out  and  twists  the  thread; 
the  spool  hanging  loose  as  it  runs  round.  The 
thread  is  then  wound  up,  and  another  twirl  is  given 
in  the  same  way.  They  spin  hemp,  in  this  manner, 
with  facility,  as  they  watch  their  goats,  sheep,  or 
cows,  grazing  in  the  fields. 

Leaving  Roanne,  the  country  becomes  mountain- 
ous. We  changed  horses  at  St.  Simphorien,  and  im- 
mediately began  to  ascend  Mount  Tarare.  This 
mountain  has  been  celebrated  by  Sterne,  in  his  ac- 
count of  the  horse-shoe  and  the  peasant^s  family.  It 
has  an  elevation  of  22  or  2500  feet  above  the  sea. 
We  crossed  it  about  four  o'clock  P.  M.,  in  as  fine  an 
afternoon  as  the  summer  has  produced.  The  per- 
spective, on  all  sides,  was  delightful ;  cultivation  eve- 
ry where  smoothing  the  rugged  features  of  nature. 
The  snows  of  Puy  de  Dome  were  visible  at  a  dis- 
tance, while  the  valleys  under  our  feet  were  clothed 
in  a  lively  verdure.  The  air  was  remarkably 
clear.  Towns,  villages,  farm  houses,  and  chateaux, 
gave  animation  to  the  scenery.  The  descent  of  this 
mountain  is  rapid,  but  the  road  is  remarkably  good. 
The  waters  which  flow  into  the  Loire  and  its  tribu- 
tary streams,  are  here  divided  from  those  which 
empty  in  the  Soane ;  thus  separating  the  Atlantic 
from  the  Mediterranean  currents.     At  the  foot  of  the 


304  JOURNEY  FROM 

mountain,  is  the  town  of  Tarare ;  where  we  had 
conchided  to  seek  quarters  for  the  night.  This  town 
is  in  a  situation  the  most  unfavourable  to  the  ordinary 
means  of  human  support — in  a  narrow  valley,  a  bar- 
ren soil,  and  remote  from  any  navigable  stream.  It 
is  a  place  in  which  one  could  at  best  suppose  there 
would  be  but  a  few  indifferent  huts,  and  a  bad  tavern  ; 
but  it  has  acquired,  within  a  few  years,  a  population 
of  about  3000,  and  contains  some  of  the  best  houses 
we  have  seen  (chateaux  excepted)  since  leaving 
Paris.  This  prosperity  is  owing  to  the  introduction 
of  manufactories,  principally  those  of  cotton  weaving, 
and  of  calico  printing.  The  brook  which  moves 
the  machinery  sometimes  becomes  a  formidable  tor- 
rent;  but  such  has  been  the  extraordinary  drought 
of  the  present  summer,  the  stream  has  not  only  been 
entirely  dried  up,  but  they  have  been  obliged  to  send 
their  cattle  to  a  great  distance  to  water.  This,  they 
say,  has  been  the  case  for  three  months,  until  the  co- 
pious rain  of  yesterday  gave  them  relief. 

From  the  experience  of  last  night,  we  thought  it 
best  to  make  a  bargain  with  the  landlady  for  our  ac- 
commodation. After  looking  at  the  rooms  and  find- 
ing them  tolerably  good,  1  asked  the  price.  This  she 
declined  to  state,  saying  we  might  give  what  we 
pleased.  To  this  I  objected,  and  left  her  to  make 
further  inquiry ;  but  while  I  was  gone,  she  offered 
the  rooms  to  our  servant  at  a  reasonable  price,  and 
not  being  more  successful  in  my  bargain  at  the  next 
inn,  we  accepted  the  terms  offered.  This  trait  in  the 
French  customs,  is  one  of  the  most  unpleasant  which 
a  traveller  has  to  encounter.  They  appear  to  think 
that  all  the  money  they  can  get  for  an  article  is  fairly 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  305 

acquired,  and  will  often  ask  double  or  treble  the  sum, 
at  which  they  will  afterwards  offer  it.  Without  a  pre- 
vious bargain,  one  is  scarcely  ever  exempt  from  such 
a  liability  to  imposition;  and  yet  nothing  appears 
more  remote  Ir-om  their  intention  than  to  cheat.  They 
are  scrupulous  with  respect  to  the  money  given  in 
change,  and  would  scorn  to  take  advantage  of  any 
mistake  in  the  calculation.  With  respect  to  the  prin- 
ciple of  honesty,  or  rather  of  its  opposite,  dishonesty, 
it  is  questionable  whether  property  is  any  where  more 
safe,  or  a  traveller  less  in  danger  of  thieves,  than 
among  the  French. 

12th.  After  breakfast  and  paying  a  bill  compara- 
tively moderate,  we  left  Tarare  in  a  delightful  morn- 
ing, and  disengaging  ourselves  by  degrees  from  the 
narrow  valley,  the  country  opened  into  an  expanded 
landscape,  embracing  several  large  chateaux  of  a 
more  modern  structure  than  those  nearer  Paris.  The 
recent  rain  has  set  the  ploughs  again  at  work.  I  ob- 
served that  in  several  instances  the  furrow  was  turned 
to  the  left,  instead  of  the  right,  as  it  always  is,  I  be- 
lieve, in  America,  excepting,  perhaps,  among  some  of 
our  foreign  settlers.  Passing  through  Bully,  we  ar- 
rived at  Arbrelle,  where  we  suffered  our  carriage  to 
go  on  to  the  next  post,  and  hired  a  carriole  to  con- 
duct us  to  the  copper  mine  of  Chessy,  about  a  league 
to  the  north  of  the  road.  Although  it  was  the  inn- 
keeper himself  who  was  to  drive  us,  and  with  his  own 
horses,  it  was  his  wife  with  whom  the  bargain  was  to 
be  made.  With  her  husband  at  her  elbow,  she  de- 
cided upon  the  price,  and  off  we  started  in  a  most 
singular  kind  of  vehicle,  the  seats  of  which  would 
serve  for  a  bed  or  couch  if  placed  in  a  chamber,  but 


306  JOURNEY  FROM 

which  so  filled  the  carriole,  as  to  render  it  extremely 
awkward.  Arrived  at  the  mine,  we  found  the  works 
were  stopped  for  want  of  water.  The  shafts  extend 
about  250  feet  in  perpendicular  depth.  The  ore  ap- 
peared to  be  principally  pyrites,  with  the  green  and 
blue  carbonate.  The  latter  variety  is  a  very  fine  and 
rather  a  rare  mineral.  This  copper  is  found  in  a 
rock  composed  of  quartz,  and  a  talcy  steatite.  The 
operations  of  the  mine  are  conducted  by  horses, 
steam  not  being  used.  The  bellows  of  the  foundery 
are  of  wood,  the  lower  part  sliding  into  the  upper. 
This  mine  is  very  small  compared  with  those  in 
Cornwall. 

We  resumed  our  carriage  at  La  Tour,  a  village 
three  and  a  half  leagues  from  Lyons.  The  country 
increased  in  interest  as  we  approached  this  ancient 
capital  of  the  south.  It  is  considered  as  one  of  the 
most  delightful  regions  of  France.  The  maisons  de 
campagne  are  so  numerous,  as  to  appear  like  villages 
scattered  upon  the  hills. 

The  dome  des  Chartreux  of  Lyons,  announces  the 
position  of  the  city  between  the  Soane  and  the 
Rhone,  neither  of  which  is  crossed  by  the  road  we 
have  travelled.  The  remains  of  a  Roman  aqueduct 
claimed  our  attention;  one  portion  of  it  being  in  a 
valley  and  another  on  a  hill.  They  are  doubtless  the 
oldest  specimens  of  masonry,  which  our  eyes  have 
ever  beheld.  The  Soane  is  a  stream,  quite  as  consi- 
derable at  Lyons,  as  the  Seine  at  Paris.  We  crossed 
it  on  one  of  the  seven  bridges,  which  connect  its  op- 
posite banks  within  the  town,  and  took  up  our  quar- 
ters at  the  Hotel  de  TEurope,  in  rooms  which  over- 
look the  river,  immediately  in  front  of  the  heights 


PARIS  TO  GENEVA.  307 

on  the  opposite  side ;  upon  which  is  a  number  of  large 
buildings,  gardens,  shrubbery,  &c. 

We  repaired  to  a  restaurateur  for  our  dinner,  and 
were  well  served,  for  two  and  a  half  francs  each,  in- 
cluding a  bottle  of  vin  ordinaire,  which  we  found  very 
good,  though  it  was  marked  on  the  carte  at  only  one 
franc.  It  is  cheaper,  of  course,  than  bottled  cider  in 
America.  In  the  evening  we  had  a  delightful  walk  on 
the  banks  of  the  Rhone.  The  full  moon  shone  with 
brilliant  effulgence  on  the  water,  as  it  flowed  with 
majestic  rapidity  through  the  arches  of  the  bridge, 
upon  which  we  placed  ourselves,  to  enjoy  the  scenery. 
The  Rhone  is  by  far  the  most  noble  river  I  have  seen 
in  Europe.  It  inspired  me  with  the  most  pleasing  re- 
collections, from  its  resemblance  of  the  streams  of  my 
native  land.  We  returned  along  a  fine  quai,  upon  its 
borders,  lined  with  boats,  which  convey  to  the  city 
coal,  wood,  salt,  and  other  commodities. 

1 3th.  Seated  at  my  escritoire,  to  note  the  particu- 
lars of  yesterday,  a  singular  sound  from  a  person 
in  the  street,  drew  me  to  the  window.  It  was  a  jug- 
gler, attracting  a  crowd  around  him,  in  order  to  ex- 
hibit his  tricks,  and  to  collect  the  sous  they  might 
have  to  spare.  He  succeeded  in  gaining  a  large  au- 
dience of  both  sexes,  who,  passing  par  hazard^  formed 
a  ring  round  him,  and  laughed  heartily  at  his  legerde- 
main. Thus  began  the  first  day  of  the  week,  in  this  part 
of  the  town.  We  breakfasted  well  at  a  calfe,  for  less 
than  one  and  a  half  francs,  and  had  the  newspapers  in 
the  bargain.  The  one  I  took  hold  of  was  a  Paris  Moni- 
teur.  It  contained  an  account  of  the  promised  relin- 
quishment of  Pensacola  by  our  government — a  piece 


308  LYONS. 

of  intelligence  that  could  not  but  gratify  our  feelings, 
from  the  persuasion  that  it  was  an  act  of  moral  justice, 
that  would  do  much  for  the  credit  of  our  government. 
Upon  our  return,  the  necromancer  in  the  street  had 
given  place  to  a  company  of  fiddlers. 

B******,  a  merchant  and  banker,  of  some  emi- 
nence in  Lyons,  to  whom  we  had  letters,  called  to 
see  us,  and  ofTered  his  services,  with  the  ease  and 
politeness  of  a  true  gentleman.  Having  accepted 
his  invitation  to  dinner,  the  next  day,  we  engaged 
a  conductor,  a  modest  and  intelligent  Swiss,  and 
commenced  a  little  survey  of  the  town.  The  mu- 
seum was  opened  to  us.  It  consists  chiefly  of  Ro- 
man and  Egyptian  antiquities,  and  paintings.  The 
former  are  very  considerable,  a  great  portion  of 
them  having  been  found  in  the  town  and  neighbour- 
hood of  Lyons.  The  paintings  are  numerous,  and 
some  of  them  large  and  fine.  In  this  collection  are 
the  celebrated  bronze  tablets,  discovered  in  1758. 
containing  the  harangue  which  the  Emperor  Claudius 
made  in  favour  of  Lyons.  These  curious  and  interest- 
ing monuments  of  antiquity  were  dug  out  of  a  hill  near 
the  town.  Theyare  still  in  good  condition,  the  inscrip- 
tions being  quite  legible.  We  were  shown  the  apart- 
ments of  the  school  of  drawing;  an  institution  which 
appears  to  be  conducted  with  great  spirit  and  science. 
In  passing  through  the  hotel  du  ville,  or  city  hall,  two 
very  large  bronze  statues,  emblematic  of  the  two  rivers 
which  bathe  the  town,  are  presented  to  our  notice. 
They  are  fine  specimens  of  this  kind  of  workmanship. 
This  hotel  fronts  the  Place  de  Terreaux,  which  was 
deluged  with  the  blood  of  the  citizens,  after  the  sur- 


DYONS.  30S 

render  of  the  city  to  the  revolutionary  army,  about 
the  year  1794. 

We  crossed  the  Soane,  and  went  to  the  top  of  La 
Fourvieres,  where  there  is  a  church,  called  Notre- 
Dames  de  Fourvieres.  The  people  were  assembled 
in  it  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  This  church  remained 
shut  during  the  whole  of  the  revolution,  and  was  not 
opened  until  the  late  return  of  the  present  Pope  from 
France.  In  passing  through  Lyons,  he  performed  a 
pilgrimage,  as  his  devoted  followers  have  termed  it. 
to  the  top  of  Mount  Fourvieres,  in  company  with  the 
archbishop,  and  reopened  this  church.  He  was  fol- 
lowed by  an  immense  multitude  of  people.  After  the 
ceremony,  the  poor  old  father  was  carried  down  in  a 
chair,  by  two  priests,  to  the  Hospital  Antiquailles,  fol- 
lowed by  the  acclamations  of  the  crowd.  When  he 
descended,  his  faithful  adherents  eagerly  endeavoured 
to  kiss  the  ground  where  his  feet  had  been  placed. 
It  would  seem  therefore,  that,  notwithstanding  the 
very  unceremonious  style  in  which  his  holiness  had 
been  treated  by  the  great  Emperor,  that  he  had  lost 
nothing  of  his  sanctity  in  the  opinion  of  the  greater 
number  of  the  Lyonnaise. 

When  the  ceremonies  were  over,  we  found  no  diffi- 
culty in  gaining  admittance  to  the  interior  of  Notre- 
Dame  de  Fourvieres.  It  is  a  very  plain  building.  We 
ascended  to  the  steeple,  and  enjoyed  a  perspective  of 
greater  extent  than  any  I  had  ever  before  beheld. 
The  city  of  Lyons,  the  two  rivers,  and  the  country  bor- 
dering the  town,  lay  at  our  feet.  The  abrupt  moun- 
tains of  Dauphiny  appeared  in  the  southeast,  and 
further  north  the  Alps  reared  their  majestic  heads. 
Mount  Blanc,  though  at  the  distance  of  sixty  miles. 

Vol.  1.  26 


310  LYONS. 

often  presents  its  snowy  peaks.  Our  guide  said  he 
distinctly  saw  it,  though  the  evidence  to  me  was  not 
so  clear.  When  the  atmosphere  is  such  as  to  afford  a 
distinct  view  of  it,  rain,  it  is  said,  may  be  expected. 

There  are  other  places  of  worship  of  considerable 
note  on  this  side  of  the  Soane.     One  of  them  is  the 
chapel  of  St.  Just,  respecting  which  a  curious  story  is 
related,  and  by  no  means  creditable  to  the  early  inha- 
bitants of  this  city.     A  madman,  having  committed  a 
great  many  disorders  in  the  city,  ascended  the  Four- 
vieres,  and  sought  refuge   in  this  chapel.     The  en- 
raged citizens  followed  him,  demanded  that  he  should 
be  given  up,  and  threatened,  in  case  of  refusal,  to  re- 
duce the  church  to  ashes.     St.  Just,  who  was  at  that 
time  Bishop  of  Lyons,  was  deaf  to  their  entreaties, 
until  the  principal  persons  among  the  pursuers  had 
bound  themselves  in  a  solemn  manner,  that  when  they 
had  obtained  the  criminal,  they  would  only  put  him 
in  irons.     Utterly  regardless  of  this  promise,  as  soon 
as  they  had  the  man  in  their  possession,  they  tore  him 
in  pieces,  before  the  eyes  of  the  bishop.     St.  Just,  ac- 
cusing himself  of  rashness,  deliberately  condemned 
himself  to  a  state  of  penitence  in  the  deserts  of  Egypt. 
His  people  endeavoured  in  vain  to  bring  him  back  to 
his  church.     He  died  in  his  retreat,  and  his  body  was 
brought  to  Lyons  in  great  pomp,  and  placed  in  this 
church,  which  was  afterwards  dedicated  to  the  ca- 
nonized bishop. 

The  gardens  rise  one  above  another,  on  the  Four- 
vieres,  as  so  many  terraces  in  the  air.  In  one  of  them 
we  plucked  some  of  the  most  delicious  grapes  we  had 
ever  tasted,  and  ate  of  them  till  we  were  cloyed ;  our 
guide,  paying  to  the  owner,  only  a  few  sous  for  the 


LYONS.  311 

privilege.  Upon  the  same  eminence  is  a  hospital  for 
the  insane,  in  a  building  which  was  formerly  a  con- 
vent. This  building  stands  on  the  site,  where  was 
once  a  palace  of  the  Roman  Emperors,  and  in  whicli 
the  Emperor  Claudius  was  born,  and  Caligula,  his 
predecessor,  had  lived.  It  is  now  called  L'Hopital 
Antiquailles,  in  consequence  of  the  numerous  anti- 
quities, that  have  been,  and  are  still  found  in  that 
quarter.  Into  this  hospital,  we  gained  admission,  and 
were  shown  the  apartments  and  cells  of  the  insane. 
The  treatment  of  them  appears  to  be  mild ;  the  ac- 
commodations, though  coarse,  are  tolerable;  and  if 
beauty  of  prospect  or  position,  can  contribute  to  the 
relief  of  mental  disorder,  this  asylum  must  possess  a 
very  eminent  advantage.  In  the  insane  departments, 
were  about  sixty  men,  and  more  women.  The  na- 
tional character  is  by  no  means  obliterated  by  de- 
rangement. The  tirst  thing  we  saw  on  entering,  was 
one  of  the  male  patients,  playing  on  the  fiddle  to  an- 
other, who  was  dancing  merrily  before  him,  in  obe- 
dience to  the  music.  But,  to  the  discredit  of  the  sup- 
porters of  this  institution,  the  building  is  made  subser- 
vient to  another  purpose,  which  must  have  a  direct 
tendency  to  retard  the  recovery  of  lunatic  patients. 
It  is  a  place  of  confinement  for  disorderly  and  diseas- 
ed females.  They  have  possession  of  the  upper  rooms, 
which  look  immediately  into  the  yard,  of  those  whose 
mental  malady  is,  or  ought  to  be,  the  subject  of  moral 
treatment.  The  funds  of  this  institution,  are  insuffi- 
cient to  maintain  it  in  the  desired  order,  and  it  is  on 
this  account,  probably,  that  the  building  is  appropri- 
ated to  such  incongruous  uses. 


312  LYONS. 

In  descendinpj  the  Fourviores,  we  went  into  the  Ca- 
thedral, or  Metropolitan  Church  of  St.  John.  This  is 
an  ancient  building,  the  architecture  of  which  is  in  the 
Moorish  style.  It  is  not  very  large,  nor  is  its  interior 
half  so  impressive  as  the  church  at  Rouen,  and  many 
others,  it  contains,  however,  one  of  the  two  very  cu- 
rious and  ingenious  clocks,  made  by  Lipsius,  of  Basle, 
in  1598,  and  described  in  Button's  mathematical  re- 
creations, and  by  other  writers. 

14th.  The  first  salutation  from  the  street  this  morn- 
ing, were  the  sounds  of  a  hymn,  from  a  number  of 
voices  in  chorus.  It  was  a  procession, — first  of  men, 
headed  by  priests  in  their  robes,  walking  in  two  rows, 
at  some  distance  from  each  other,  and  bearing  a  large 
silken  banner,  or  flag :  then  of  females,  all  drest  in 
white,  with  a  white  vail  over  their  heads,  the  foremost 
bearing  a  crucifix  of  ivory,  encircled  with  festoons, 
Irom  which  several  cords  were  extended,  and  held  by 
those  who  led  the  band.  Every  female,  in  the  pro- 
cession, carried  an  open  book,  and  joined  in  the 
chant.  After  these  followed  a  great  number  of  other 
females,  habited  in  their  usual  style,  and  then  a  corps 
of  men  formed  the  rear  of  this  march,  quite  new  to 
as,  but  I  suppose  very  common  in  Catholic  towns. 
Our  guide  informed  us  there  were  not  more  than  four 
hundred  Protestants  in  Lyons,  and  but  one  place  of 
Protestant  worship,  The  external  observances  of  the 
Catholic  church,  appear  to  be  admirably  calculated 
to  hold  the  common  mind  in  subjection  to  its  dogmata; 
a  subjection,  which  I  have  no  doubt,  however,  is 
often  seasoned  with  sincere  devotion.  But  how  deep- 
ly is  it  to  be  regretted,  that  this  devotion  is  so  often 


LYONS.  313 

intimately  connected,  with  dark  and  blind  supersti- 
tion ;  and  that,  in  consequence  of  this,  so  many  of 
those  who  have  intelligence  enough  to  perceive  this 
connection,  run  into  the  opposite  extreme,  of  cold 
hearted  infidelity. 

We  went,  after  breakfast,  to  see  a  manufactory  of 
silk  stuffs,  or  tissue.  It  would  be  difficult  to  form  an 
idea  of  the  richness  and  splendour  of  this  stuff*,  with- 
out seeing  specimens  of  it.  Gold  and  silver  thread, 
and  silk  of  all  colours,  are  woven  into  any  form  or 
figure,  which  an  artist  may  be  pleased  to  designate. 
Flowers,  birds,  animals,  and  men,  are  thus  represent- 
ed by  the  operations  of  the  loom,  as  effectually  as  by 
embroidery,  and  with  all  the  brilliancy  of  the  dyers 
art,  and  all  the  luxury  of  gold  and  silver.  Some  of 
these  stutFs  are  made,  (as  we  were  informed,  by  one  of 
the  principal  dealers  and  capitalists,)  expressly  for  the 
Grand  Seignior,  and  court  of  Constantinople.  Those 
destined  for  the  cushions  and  hangings  of  the  French 
palaces,  are  less  costly  and  gaudy,  and  more  con- 
formable to  modern  European  taste.  The  mechanism 
of  the  loom,  by  which  this  tissue  is  made,  resembles, 
very  closely,  that  used  in  the  weaving  of  figured  car- 
pets, alluded  to  at  page  184,  but  requiring  greater 
nicety  of  management,  and  much  more  time  to  accom- 
plish a  given  length.  The  workman  at  the  loom  in- 
formed us,  that  an  ell  was  the  labour  of  three  or  four 
days.  Ribands  are  woven  with  the  same  richness, 
and  variety  of  figure.  The  gold  and  silver  thread, 
we  had  also  an  opportunity  of  seeing  manufactured. 
The  gold  thread  is  only  gilded  silver.  It  is  drawn  to 
the  requisite  degree  of  fineness,  by  passing  the  wire 
between  two  exquisitely  polished  steel  rollers,  prcsS'^ 

2* 


314  LYONS. 

ed  together  by  weights.  The  metalhc  and  the  silk 
thread  are  then  twisted  together,  by  a  kind  of  jenny, 
but  in  such  a  way,  as  to  wrap  the  metal  effectually 
round  the  silk. 

We  embraced  the  invitation,  given  us  by  the  wo- 
man in  the  cathedral  yesterday,  to  visit  the  clock 
again,  and  to  see  its  movements.  It  was  wound  up 
for  the  purpose,  and  performed  most  or  all  of  the  ope- 
rations, mentioned  in  the  description  that  has  been 
given  of  it.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  square  tower,  ter- 
minated by  a  dome,  above  which  is  an  artificial  cock. 
When  the  clock  was  wound  up,  the  cock,  (as  large  as 
a  half  grown  chicken,)  fluttered  its  wings,  and  crowed 
twice  or  thrice ;  a  dove  descended  from  the  clouds ; 
an  angel  appeared  to  Joseph,  as  an  emblem  of  the 
annunciation  of  the  virgin ;  other  angels  appeared, 
and,  by  striking  bells,  produced  something  like  the 
sound  of  a  hymn.  On  a  little  balcony,  which  crowns 
the  dome,  is  a  figure  of  a  guard,  or  porter,  who,  as 
soon  as  the  chime  begins,  marches  slowly  toward  the 
bell,  raises  his  hammer,  and  strikes  the  hour,  turning 
his  head  round  at  each  stroke ;  then,  moving  round 
the  dome,  repairs  to  his  post,  where  he  remains  till 
the  next  hour.  On  different  dial  plates,  various  as- 
tronomical events  are  represented,  such  as  the  diur- 
nal progress  of  the  sun  and  moon,  the  days  of  the 
year,  with  the  civil  and  ecclesiastical  calendar.  One 
of  the  dial  plates,  which  indicates  the  hours  and  mi- 
nutes, is  of  an  oval  or  elliptical  form,  and  the  hand 
or  index  which  moves  round  the  centre  of  the  el- 
lipse, lengthens  or  contracts  itself,  as  it  revolves,  ac- 
cording to  the  varying  semi-diameter  of  the  ellipse. 
This  was  certainly   a  most  extraordinary  piece  of 


LYONS.  315 

mechanism  for  that  period.  It  was  repaired  in  the 
last  century  by  Nourisson,  a  very  ingenious  workman 
of  this  city.  At  present,  however,  it  might  be  exe- 
cuted in  a  different  and  very  superior  style.  The 
woman  took  us  into  a  private  apartment,  opened  a 
drawer,  and  showed  us  the  vestments  worn  by  the 
priests  on  special  occasions.  They  are  as  gaudy  and 
splendid,  as  the  richest  gold  and  silver  embroidery 
can  make  them.  How  much  more  of  the  Mosaic 
ritual  and  of  the  Levitical  spirit,  is  there  in  all  this, 
than  of  that  dispensation  they  profess  to  follow,  whose 
Author  was  clothed  in  a  garment  without  a  seam ! 

We  dined  to-day  with  B******.  The  dinner  was  in 
the  true  French  manner,  and  certainly  very  excellent. 
Variety  was  its  distinguishing  feature.  The  fruit  was 
uncommonly  fine.  His  wife  appears  to  be  a  pleasant 
and  interesting  lady.  Seated  between  her  and  her 
mother,  my  French  faculties  were  put  to  the  test ;  but 
how  well  1  acquitted  myself,  it  would  be  difficult, 
through  the  vail  of  French  politeness,  to  discover. 
There  were  several  gentlemen  at  the  table,  and 
among  them  B******,  le  grand  pere,  father  of  our 
host,  a  remarkably  agreeable  and  venerable  looking 
gentleman.  After  leaving  the  table,  we  were  con- 
ducted into  another  room,  where  coffee  and  liqueurs 
were  immediately  served. 

Leaving  this  agreeable  family,  we  walked  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  to  witness  the  confluence  of  the  Rhone 
and  Soane.  The  promenade  is  a  delightful  one,  along 
the  margin  of  the  Rhone,  between  two  extended  rows 
of  Lombardy  poplars.  The  rapidity  and  depth  of 
the  river,  afford  the  means  of  erecting  mills  upon  it 
to  any  desirable  extent.     This  is  done  by  anchoring 


3 1 6  LYONS. 

to  the  shore  at  a  distance  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  by 
heavy  chains,  two  large  boats  placed  abreast,  with  a 
large  water  wheel  adjusted  between  them.  The 
body  of  the  mill  rests  on  one  or  both  the  boats.  They 
have  a  near  resemblance  to  our  steam  ferry-boats. 
Flour  and  fulling  mills,  are  thus  constructed  in  suffi- 
cient number,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town. 
The  current,  always  in  one  direction,  is  so  rapid  as  to 
turn  the  wheels  with  facility. 

The  view  which  we  obtained  from  the  bridge  which 
crosses  the  Soane  near  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers, 
is  exceedingly  fine.  A  village  on  each  side,  and  a 
populous  country  on  the  east  of  the  Rhone,  with  the 
bold  shore  of  the  Soane,  capped  with  large  buildings 
and  gardens,  delight  the  eye  by  their  variety  and  pic- 
turesque beauty.  We  returned  in  a  carriole  crowded 
with  citizens,  but  mostly  females,  and  paid  four  sous 
each  for  our  ride. 

15th.  The  streets  of  Lyons  are  very  narrow,  pa- 
ved mostly  with  pebbles,  and  without  footwalks.  The 
houses  are  built  of  stone,  and  generally  five  or  six 
stories  high.  Hence  the  light  of  the  sun  in  some  of 
the  streets,  (lat.  nearly  46°  N.)  must  be  a  delicacy 
during  six  months  of  the  year.  The  shops  make  but 
'Jittle  display.  It  is  considered,  nevertheless,  as  the 
richest  commercial  town  in  France,  next  to  the  great 
metropolis.  The  population  in  1806,  was  less  than 
90,000,  and  it  has  not,  I  should  presume,  varied  much 
since.  The  most  considerable  houses  here,  as  well  as 
in  Paris,  are  built  with  a  hollow  square  or  opening, 
in  the  centre,  which  is  common  to  all  the  mansions 
around  it.  One  or  more  large  stone  staircases  open 
into  this  court,  which  are  also  common  to  a  number 


LYONS.  317 

of  families,  who  occupy  different  apartments,  and  dif- 
ferent stories,  in  the  building.  A  large  heavy  gate- 
closes  the  court  of  these  houses  from  the  street.  At 
this  the  visiter  gives  a  lusty  knock,  the  gate  is  opened 
by  the  porter,  who  directs  him  to  the  story  and  the 
door  of  the  inhabitant  whom  he  seeks. 

I  went  to  see  a  piece  of  ancient  mosaic,  recently 
discovered,  and  considered  as  one  of  the  most  inte- 
resting relics  of  this  kind  in  existence.  It  is  carefully 
preserved,  by  having  a  coarse  wooden  house  erected 
over  it.  I  should  judge  it  to  be  about  fifteen  feet 
square.  It  represents  the  sports  of  the  circus,  with 
the  judge  seated  at  one  end,  in  the  attitude  of  deci- 
ding the  prize  among  the  different  competitors.  It 
has  suffered  some  injury,  but  still  exhibits  with  great 
distinctness  and  beauty,  the  taste  of  that  remote  age, 
and  the  skill  and  labour  employed  in  that  species  of 
work. 

Agreeably  to  the  invitation  of  B******,  le  grand 
pere,  who  is  one  of  the  administrators  of  the  institu- 
tion, we  visited  "  La  Charite,"  the  public  establish- 
ment of  the  city  for  assisting  the  poor.  It  is  a  very 
extensive  concern.  In  one  room  there  are  250  beds 
appropriated  to  females,  each  bed  having  an  armoire 
or  clothes-press,  appertaining  to  it.  The  bedsteads 
are  all  of  iron.  Each  of  the  occupants  appeared  to 
have  some  employment,  chiefly  spinning  and  knitting. 
Another  room  of  rather  less  size,  is  appropriated 
to  men. 

This  institution  has  three  distinct  departments.  A 
hospital  for  the  aged  and  indigent  poor,  a  foundling 
hospital,  and  a  maternite  or  lying-in  hospital.  About 
400  aged  people  find  in  this  hospital  an  asylum  during 


318 


LYONS. 


the  rest  of  their  lives.  None  can  be  entered  in  the 
books  for  admission  to  this  department,  who  are  not 
seventy  years  of  age.  Their  situation  and  claims  to 
the  charity,  are  carefully  inquired  into,  before  the 
question  is  taken  on  their  admission.  When  four  va- 
cancies are  to  be  filled,  a  preference  is  given,  first  to 
the  three  "septuagenaires"  who  have  been  longest 
on  the  list  of  applicants,  and  secondly  the  fourth  is 
chosen  from  the  "octogrenaires"  that  have  been  at  least 
three  months  in  nomination.  These  old  people  are 
dressed  in  a  uniform,  and  have  the  privilege  of  going 
into  the  town  once  a  week,  but  they  are  forbidden  to 
beg  on  pain  of  expulsion. 

The  whole  of  this  large  establishment  appeared  to 
be  admirably  conducted.  The  infantile  department 
was  the  first  of  the  kind  I  had  yet  seen,  for  in  the 
United  States  we  have  nothing  of  this  description. 
In  one  room  were  twenty  cradles,  for  the  use  of  these 
little  outcasts  from  the  warmth  and  tenderness  of  pa- 
rental affection.  The  cradles  were  suspended  in 
rows,  on  a  frame,  of  a  height  sufficient  to  make  them 
easy  to  manage.  Children  are  received  at  the  earliest 
period  of  infancy,  put  out  to  nurse  in  the  country,  re- 
turned when  old  enough  to  derive  benefit  from  in- 
struction, taught  in  the  school  of  the  establishment, 
put  out  to  trades,  and  kept  under  the  notice  of  the 
administration  until  their  apprenticeship  expires.  The 
children  dine  separately  from  the  old  people.  We 
observed  a  train  of  them  marching  from  table,  and 
singing  in  chorus,  as  they  passed  from  one  part  of  the 
building  to  another.  They  were  returning  thanks,  as 
our  venerable  and  polite  attendant  informed  us,  for 
the  meal  they  had  just  partaken  of. 


LYONS.  319 

They  showed  me  the  list  of  children  received  since 
the  commencement  of  the  present  year.  It  amounted 
to  1007!  Can  a  more  decisive  proof  be  wanting  of 
the  ultimate  tendency  of  such  an  institution  ?  They 
remain  generally  but  a  few  days  in  the  house,  the  ap- 
plication for  children  being  commensurate  with  the 
demand  for  nurses.  They  are  baptized,  named,  and 
sent  abroad.  One  of  the  sisters  who  attends  to  this 
department,  has  stood  godmother  for  many  thousands. 
This  very  extensive  establishment  is  supported  chiefly 
by  voluntary  contributions  and  legacies. 

Whether  the  eventual  tendency  of  such  an  esta- 
blishment as  this,  be  to  diminish  or  to  increase  the 
stim  total  of  human  happiness,  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  the  administration  of  it,  affords  the  most  sincere 
gratification  to  the  benevolent  minds  of  those  who  are 
actively  concerned  in  it,  and  annually  preserves  from 
an  untimely  death,  hundreds  of  human  lives.  This 
very  extensive  institution  took  its  rise  in  the  year 
1531,  when  the  country  was  afflicted  with  a  grievous 
famine.  Thousands  resorted  to  the  city  of  Lyons 
from  the  adjacent  districts,  and  after  being  sustained 
by  the  generous  exertions  of  the  citizens,  until  the 
return  of  a  new  harvest,  the  surplus  of  the  fund 
raised  for  their  relief,  was  appropriated  to  the  foun- 
dation of  this  charity.  The  buildings  are  large  and 
finely  situated  between  the  place  Bellecour  and  the 
Rhone. 

We  next  visited  the  general  hospital  of  the  city, 
which  is  considered  as  the  best  in  France,  and  per- 
haps in  Europe.  On  application  to  the  porter,  we 
were  directed  to  one  of  the  matrons,  who  have  the 


320  LYONS. 

general  charge  of  the  establishment,  and  on  informing 
her  who  we  were,  and  what  was  our  object,  a  guide 
was  immediately  assigned  us, — a  man  thoroughly  ver- 
sed in  all  the  details  of  the  house.  After  passing 
through  and  examining  the  various  apartments,  we 
could  not  but  acknowledge  that  it  deserves  the  repu- 
tation it  has  acquired.  To  this  Hospital,  as  well  as 
to  one  in  Paris,  the  French  have  given  the  appella- 
tion of  Hotel  Dieu.  The  practice  of  familiarizing  the 
sacred  name  with  worldly  objects,  as  in  this  instance. 
is,  as  I  conceive,  extremely  reprehensible ;  and  still 
more  so  is  the  frequent — I  might  say  perpetual — and 
almost  universal  habit  of  introducing  it  in  the  way  of 
ejaculation,  on  the  most  trivial,  as  well  as  important 
occasions.  I  am  aware,  that  as  it  is  thus  employed  by 
many  persons,  it  is  by  no  means  designed  to  express 
irreverent  feelings ;  for  I  have  often  heard  the  term. 
Ah  mon  Dieu  !  from  the  lips  of  persons  whom  I  sincere- 
ly believe  to  be  of  a  religious  and  pious  turn  of  mind. 
Still  I  think  it  impossible  that  the  habitual  introduc- 
tion of  a  term  which  is  meant  to  apply  exclusively  to 
the  Supreme  Being,  into  common  and  trivial  conver- 
sation, can  be  unattended  with  a  diminution  of  reve- 
rence for  that  best  and  most  sacred  of  all  the  objects 
of  our  contemplation ;  and  that,  of  course,  such  a 
practice,  when  it  becomes  general  or  national  must 
tend  to  lower  the  moral  tone  of  the  people. 

The  situation  of  this  hospital  as  well  as  that  of  La 
Charit€,\s  remarkably  fine.  It  fronts  the  Rhone,  with 
a  noble  facade,  while  its  majestic  dome  gives  it  an 
air  of  architectural  magnificence,  not  often  surpassed 
in  buildings  of  this  nature.     It  is  singular,  however. 


LYONS.  321 

^hat  there  is  no  admission  into  this  building  by  any 
i3oor  or  opening  in  front.  The  entrance  is  in  the  rear, 
and  by  an  unpleasant  and  awkward  passage. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  hospital  contained 
about  1200  patients.  Last  year  there  were  1400. 
But,  notwithstanding  this  great  number,  the  building 
is  not  crowded.  Each  patient  has  a  bed  to  himself 
The  wards  are  large  and  airy,  and  kept  in  very  com- 
mendable neatness.  The  whole  organization  and 
management  appeared  to  me  to  be  admirable — exceed- 
ing any  thing  of  the  kind  that  has  yet  been  adopted 
in  our  country.  It  is  however  an  organization  a  la 
CathoUque.  A  priest  is  regarded  as  an  indispensable 
part  of  the  economy  of  the  house,  and  the  daily  cele- 
bration of  mass,  as  an  important  part  of  the  duties 
due  to  the  poor  patients. 

There  are  two  altars  in  the  house.  The  principal 
one  is  in  the  chapel.  It  is  ornamented  with  a  cost- 
liness and  splendour  that  astonished  me,  and  which  ill 
accord,  either  with  that  regard  to  economy  which  is 
inseparable  from  the  wise  administration  of  charity, 
or  with  the  simplicity  of  that  faith  which  cheers  the 
dying  Christian.  It  is  decorated  with  sculpture,  and 
Mosaic,  and  verd  antique,  with  a  sumptuousness  and 
vanity,  that  would  better  befit  the  chapel  of  a  palace, 
than  the  altar  of  a  house  for  the  sick,  supported  by 
public  bounty.  But  in  a  religion  which  consists  so 
much  in  pomp  and  display,  it  is  considered  as  a  work 
of  great  merit,  to  adorn  with  costly  materials,  and  ela- 
borate workmanship,  those  places  where  men  are  to 
kneel  and  confess  their  sins,  to  render  homage  to  the 
Creator,  and  to  be  forcibly  reminded  of  the  emptiness 

Vol.  I.  27 


322  LYONS. 

of  worldly  things !     Accordingly,  on  a  stone  near  the 
altar,  there  is  the  following  inscription  : 

Cel  autel  est  un  nouvel  hommaje 
De  la  pi^t6  et  de  la  bieufaisance 
De  nos  concitoyens. 
1808. 

Four  of  the  largest  rooms,  or  wards  of  the  patient^t 
have,  taken  together,  the  form  of  a  cross  :  two  of  the 
wings  are  appropriated  to  women,  and  two  to  men  ; 
the  whole  being  easily  inspected  by  a  person  in  the 
centre.  They  are  lighted  by  a  central  dome ;  be- 
neath which  is  a  small  altar,  at  which  mass  is  said  for 
the  benefit  of  the  patients  in  all  the  wings ;  most  of 
whom  can  see  the  movements  of  the  priest,  and  hear 
the  service,  as  they  lie  in  bed ;  and  cross  themselves, 
and  unite  with  the  ceremony,  as  they  may  feel  incli- 
ned. 

It  was  here  that  I  witnessed,  for  the  first  time,  the 
excellent  effects  of  that  extraordinary  band  of  fe- 
males, denominated,  in  France,  "  Soeurs  de  la  Chari- 
te."  This  is  a  distinct  sisterhood,  or  religious  order 
offemales,  whose  whole  business  is  to  relieve  the  dis- 
tresses of  their  fellow  creatures.  To  this  they  de- 
vote their  lives.  It  is  doubtless  the  unwearied  acti- 
vity of  this  truly  benevolent  sisterhood,  which  gives 
to  the  hospitals  of  France,  a  superiority  over  most 
others  in  the  world.  Their  fidelity,  their  patience, 
intelligence,  neatness,  skill ;  and  above  all,  their 
tenderness  and  sympathy  with  human  affliction, 
qualify  them,  in  an  eminent  degree,  to  discharge  the 
various  duties  of  hospital  attendants,  with  superior 
effect.     Surely  if  there  is  true  religion  to  be  found  in 


LYONS.  323 

the  country,  it  exists,  in  its  brightest  form,  in  this 
amiable  sisterhood.  What  but  a  pervading  sense  of 
the  nature  of  Christian  obligation,  can  induce  a 
young  and  accomplished  female,  to  abandon  the  va- 
rious pleasures  of  fashionable  life,  and  devote  herself 
to  a  service,  which,  in  its  nature,  can  have  nothing  to 
recommend  it  but  the  inward  consolation  of  doing 
good  ?  They  are  found  in  all  the  hospitals  of  France, 
performing  the  duties  of  nurses,  chamber-maids, 
and  cooks.  Some  of  the  elder  sisters  fill  the 
higher  and  more  elevated  ofiice  of  apothecaries.  I 
was  surprised  to  find  the  "  pharmacie"  of  this  great 
hospital,  entirely  in  the  keeping  and  management  of 
the  sisters :  and  its  appearance  bears  testimony  to 
their  skill  and  neatness  of  arrangement.  The  apart- 
ment is  large,  ft  not  only  supplies  the  house  with 
medicine,  but  serves  also  as  a  dispensary  to  the  out- 
door poor.  The  hospital  contains,  besides,  a  large 
laboratory,  well  supplied  with  furnaces,  stills,  and 
ail  other  requisites  for  the  preparation  of  medicine  in 
a  large  way.  The  administration  of  this  extensive 
concern,  is  under  the  direction  of  a  counsel  compo- 
sed of  the  archbishop,  the  prefect  of  the  department, 
the  mayor  of  the  city,  and  twenty  citizens,  appointed 
by  the  minister  of  the  interior,  at  the  suggestion  of 
the  council.  Four  or  five  of  these  are  renewed 
every  year.  There  are  attached  to  the  house  :  a 
priest,  (or  "  maitre  spirituel,"  as  he  is  called ;)  four 
almoners  ;  eight  physicians,  and  six  assistants ;  a  sur- 
geon-major, a  surgeon's  mate,  and  eleven  assistants ;  a 
steward;  eighty-one  sisters,  and  seventy-three  can- 
didates ;  thirty-six  brothers,  (freres  hospitaliers,)  and 
thirty-six  candidates.      The  bedsteads  in  this  hospi- 


^524  LVONS. 

tal,  are  of  iron;  with  tops,  to  which  curtains  are  ap- 
pended. A  shelf  rests  on  supports  in  the  frame,  im- 
mediately over  the  patient's  head ;  on  which  his  me- 
dicine and  food  are  placed  within  his  reach.  This  im- 
portant addition  to  the  cleanliness  and  comfort  of  the 
sick,  was  effected  by  a  special  subscription,  in  17H7 ; 
and  was  encouraged  by  the  example  of  the  king, 
Louis  XVL  This  noble  institution  receives  consi- 
derable support  from  governmen.t,  but  it  depends 
very  much  upon  legacies  and  private  donations.  1 
have  been  more  particular  in  this  account  of  it,  as  it 
is  the  first  institution  of  the  kind  I  have  visited  on  the 
continent ;  and  is  regarded  as  inferior  to  few,  if  any, 
in  Europe,  for  the  perfection  of  its  administration. 

There  are  several  private  associations  in  Lyons,  for 
the  relief  of  the  poor.  Madame  B******  told  me  she 
was  a  member  of  a  large  society  of  females,  whose 
labours  were  very  important  in  finding  good  places 
for  children,  assisting  servants,  &c.  A  school  for 
mutual  instruction  has  been  commenced,  and  is  get- 
ting under  good  way  ;  but  it  was  the  time  of  va- 
cation, and  I  did  not  see  it. 

The  college  of  Lyons,  which  bears  the  name  of 
La  Trinite,  like  all  the  principal  establishments  of 
the  city,  suffered  extremely  during  the  revolution. 
The  chapel  was  pillaged  and  mutilated ;  the  pulpit 
torn  down;  the  observatory  destroyed;  and  the 
paintings  in  fresco,  which  ornamented  the  class 
rooms,  entirely  obliterated.  But  what  still  more 
strongly  marked  the  violence  of  these  modern  Sara- 
cens, was,  that  the  noble  library,  enriched  by  the 
gifts  of  successive  kings,  and  other  valuable  dona- 
tions, and  filling  a  I'oom  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 


LYONS.  325 

long,  33  wide,  and  40  high,  was  despoiled  of  the  trea- 
sure of  ages.  Many  of  the  books  and  manuscripts,  if 
we  were  correctly  informed,  were  employed  by  those 
reformers  of  the  government,  as  fuel,  in  cooking  their 
victuals.  These  devastations  have,  since  the  revolu- 
tion, been  repaired  to  a  great  extent,  and  it  is  now 
estimated  to  contain  120,000  volumes.  This  library  is 
situated  on  the  quay  of  the  Rhone,  with  a  balcony  ex- 
tending along  its  front,  and  opening  into  the  room.  The 
entrance,  however,  to  this  famous  store  of  learning,  is 
in  the  rear,  through  a  single  door,  in  one  corner  of  the 
room,  narrow,  obscure,  and  difficult  of  access.  I  know 
not  the  reason  for  such  a  perversion  of  taste  and  con- 
venience. The  busts  of  the  Abbey  Raynal  and  of 
Voltaire,  and  an  old  pair  of  globes  about  six  feet  in 
diameter,  are  the  only  ornaments  which  the  revolu- 
tionary enthusiasts  allowed  to  remain ;  and  none  have 
since  been  added. 

I  could  not  leave  Lyons,  without  feelings  of  respect 
for  the  public  spirit  of  the  citizens,  and  of  solemn 
pleasure  in  having  seen  a  place,  the  history  of  which 
contains  so  much  that  is  tragically  interesting.  It  is  a 
very  ancient  city,  being  founded,  according  to  the  best 
accounts,  about  forty  years  before  the  Christian  era. 

The  aqueducts,  whose  ruins  I  have  noticed,  are 
ascribed  to  Marc  Antony.  From  a  learned  and  very 
interesting  account  of  them,  read  before  the  Acade- 
my of  Lyons,  by  M.  Delorme,  it  is  evident,  that  these 
aqueducts  ought  to  be  ranked  amongst  the  most  dis- 
tinguished efforts  of  Roman  skill  and  enterprise,  in 
this  kind  of  engineering.  The  object  was  to  intro- 
duce a  plentiful  supply  of  water  to  the  top  of  the 
Fourviers,  an  elevation  of  many  hundred  feet  above 

27  * 


326  LYONS. 

the  level  of  the  Soane,  where  the  palace,  baths,  and 
fountains  of  the  Emperor  were  situated.  For  thi* 
purpose  they  were  obliged  to  seek  for  springs  on 
ground  still  more  elevated.  These  were  found  in 
sufficient  abundance,  only  at  the  distance  of  twenty 
or  thirty  miles,  where,  on  the  tops  of  mountains, 
they  collected  the  waters  of  the  Geis  and  the  Janon, 
tributary  streams  of  the  Loire.  Hence  the  prin- 
cipal aqueduct  had  a  great  number  of  branches,  ex- 
extending  to  different  mountains.  The  elevation  of 
the  main  sources  is  computed  to  be  360  feet  above 
the  Fourviers.  A  gradual  and  regular  slope  was 
given  to  the  principal  canal,  throughout  the  whole  dis- 
tance. To  effect  this,  they  were  obliged  to  conduct 
it  along  the  sides  of  the  vallies,  pursuing  their  various 
sinuosities,  and  frequently  crossing  them  on  bridges 
or  arcades,  piled  one  above  another.  When  the  depth 
of  the  valley  was  so  great,  as  to  render  the  labour  and 
expense  of  a  bridge  too  formidable,  the  aqueduct  was 
continued  along  the  slope,  until  a  more  convenient 
place  for  crossing  presented  itself.  But,  in  some  in- 
stances, they  were  obliged  to  convey  the  waters  over 
vallies  too  profound  to  admit  of  the  construction  of  a 
continued  level  of  masonry.  In  these  cases  they  re- 
sorted to  the  use  of  leaden  tubes.  The  aqueduct  of 
stone  terminated  in  a  large  and  substantial  reservoir 
on  each  side  of  the  gulf,  and  these  reservoirs  were 
connected  by  numerous  large  leaden  tubes,  which- 
having  their  extremities  inserted  in  opposite  reser- 
voirs, descended  toward  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  and 
were  supported  throughout  their  length,  either  by  the 
sides  of  the  hill,  or  by  solid  walls.  The  length  of  the 
principal  aqueduct  (for  there  were  evidently  several 


LYONS;  327 

which  brought  water  to  the  city)  comprehending  its 
windings,  is  estimated  at  thirteen  leagues,  or  about 
forty  Enghsh  miles.  The  trench,  or  canal,  was  dug 
five  feet  wide,  and  about  ten  feet  deep,  with  a  regular 
depression  of  one  foot  (French)  in  100  toises.  The 
walls  contracted  this  space  to  a  channel  for  the  wa- 
ter, of  two  Roman  feet  in  width  and  four  and  a  half 
in  depth.  The  floor  was  covered  with  cement,  six 
inches  in  thickness,  and  the  walls  an  inch  and  a  half 
The!arch  was  not  cemented.  The  angles  of  the  floor 
were  filled  with  cement.  The  perfection  and  dura- 
bility of  this  great  aqueduct  is  ascribed  by  Delorme. 
to  the  use  of  small  fragments  only  of  stone,  from  three 
to  six  inches  thick,  in  the  formation  of  the  walls,  re- 
jecting pieces  of  larger  size.  This  facilitates  the  con- 
solidation of  the  wall  by  a  more  intimate  junction  of 
the  stone  and  the  mortar.  The  strength  of  the  mor- 
tar, on  which  much  also  depends,  was  increased  by 
the  coarse  sand  from  the  mountain  streams,  which  is 
considered  as  incomparably  better  than  fine  river  sand. 
When  they  were  obliged  to  use  the  latter  they  min- 
gled it  with  pounded  bricks.  Delorme  is  of  opinion, 
that  the  Roman  mortar  was  composed  of  the  best 
quick  lime  and  coarse  sand,  in  the  proportion  of  one- 
third  of  the  former  and  two-thirds  of  the  latter.  The 
cement  which  covered  the  walls  inside,  was  composed 
of  pulverized  bricks,  containing  portions  as  large  as 
peas,  and  even  (in  the  finish  of  the  floor)  as  large  as 
walnuts  or  small  eggs.  It  consisted  entirely  of  lime, 
newly  slaked,  and  pounded  bricks,  excepting,  as  De- 
lorme supposes,  that  the  mixture  might  have  been 
completed  by  pouring  on  wine  or  vinegar.  It  is  ob- 
vious, that  the  composition  of  these  Roman  walls  was, 


328  LYONS. 

in  some  important  particulars,  very  different  from  thai 
at  present  employed,  for  they  have  resisted  the  shocks 
of  nearly  nineteen  centuries,  and  are  still  sound,  even 
in  places  where  they  have  ever  been  exposed  to  the 
weather. 

In  the  reign  of  Claudius,  Lyons  was  destroyed  by  a 
dreadful  conflagration. 

"  Una  nox  interfuit  inter  maximam  urbem  et  nullam." 

It  was  rebuilt  by  Nero,  and  became  the  residence  of 
a  great  number  of  Christians,  19,000  of  whom,  un- 
der the  reign  of  Septimus  Severus,  were  inhumanly 
slaughtered. 

This  city,  in  the  stormy  period  of  the  French  revo- 
lution, remained  faithful  to  the  king,  and  suflfered  hea- 
vily under  a  siege,  which  it  maintained  for  a  long  time, 
against  the  republican  army.  When  reduced  to  capi- 
tulation, dreadful  indeed  was  the  rage  of  those  pre- 
tended friends  of  liberty  and  the  rights  of  man.  The 
blood  of  its  citizens  streamed  from  the  horrid  axe  in 
the  Place  de  Terreaux  ;  and,  as  if  its  operations  were 
too  slow  for  the  vengeance  of  the  conquerors,  hun- 
dreds were  arranged  before  the  mouths  of  cannon,  and 
swept  from  existence,  on  the  heights  beyond  the  Rhone, 
Bonaparte  took  pains  to  efface  the  recollection  of 
these  disastrous  events,  by  rebuilding  the  houses  that 
had  been  destroyed,  and  adding  many  spacious  edi- 
fices,  which  greatly  ornament  and  beautify  the  city; 
insomuch,  that  his  name  is  popular  in  Lyons.  The 
person  who  conducted  us  over  one  of  the  institutions, 
in  referring  to  his  expulsion,  asserted,  that  nothing  had 
gone  right  since  that  period,  and  that  even  the  seasons 
and  weather  had  evidently  changed  for  the  worse ! 


JOURNEY  TO  GENEVA.  329 

Our  road  extended  along  the  Rhone,  for  a  consi- 
derable distance,  after  leaving  the  city.  The  sky  was 
very  serene,  and  the  atmosphere  so  clear,  that  the 
snowy  summit  of  Mount  Blanc,  and  much  of  its  ridge, 
were  distinctly  in  view.  Miribel,  Mont  Luel,  Meri- 
meux,  and  Bublanne,  were  post  towns,  through  which 
we  passed,  changing  horses  at  each  place.  The  road, 
after  leaving  the  Rhone,  extends  along  the  Ain,  a  con- 
siderable stream,  which  forms  a  branch  of  the  Rhone. 
At  Pont  d'Ain,  we  crossed  the  latter  on  a  handsome 
stone  bridge,  and  almost  immediately  after,  entered 
one  of  the  valleys  of  Mount  Jura.  The  moon  shone 
brightly,  and  we  concluded  to  avail  ourselves  of  so 
favourable  an  evening,  to  advance  in  our  journey. 
The  road  lay  between  mountains,  which  reared  their 
heads  to  a  greater  elevation  than  any  we  had  yet  en- 
countered. We  passed  through  Cerdon,  and  Maillac, 
and  arrived  at  Nantua,  about  half  past  one  in  the 
morning.  A  tolerable  inn  gave  us  accommodations 
during  the  remainder  of  the  night. 

16th.  The  town  of  Nantua  contains  about  400O 
inhabitants.  Its  situation  in  the  bosom  of  some  of  the 
highest  elevations  of  the  Jura,  renders  it  sublimely 
picturesque.  The  mountains  are  extremely  wild  and 
irregular  in  this  passage,  rising  with  an  almost  per- 
pendicular abruptness  over  the  town,  to  an  astonish- 
ing height,  and  frowning  upon  it,  with  a  physiognomy 
terrifying  to  one  not  accustomed  to  features  of  such 
an  alpine  character. 

Before  our  departure  this  morning,  our  luggage  was 
examined  by  the  officers  on  this  station.  They  came 
into  the  inn  yard,  to  save  us  the  inconvenience  of  trans- 
porting our  trunks  to  the  gate,  and  seemed  disposed 


330  JOURNEY  TO  GENEVA. 

to  give  us  as  little  trouble  as  possible.  I  entered  into 
conversation  with  one  of  the  most  respectable  oi" 
them,  and  questioned  him  with  regard  to  the  feelings 
of  the  people  of  that  district,  in  relation  to  the  ex- 
Emperor.  Finding  that  I  was  an  American,  and  that 
he  would  run  no  risque  in  avowing  his  opinions,  he 
candidly  acknowledged  that  the  affections  of  the 
people  were  decidedly  in  favour  of  Napoleon.  So 
common  was  this  feeling  among  the  lower  classes, 
they  were  unwilling  to  believe  that  the  Emperor  had 
actually  been  transported  to  St.  Helena.  They 
thought  it  more  probable,  that  he  was  concealed 
either  in  England  or  France ;  and  might  be  ready,  at 
a  suitable  juncture,  again  to  make  his  appearance  on 
the  theatre  of  action,  and  contend  for  his  empire. 
The  officer  himself  partook  of  this  opinion,  and  seri- 
ously asked  me  where  I  thought  it  was,  that  the  em- 
peror  was  actually  concealed.  On  my  assuring  hinij 
that  there  was  not  the  least  doubt  of  his  being,  in 
reality,  where  public  report  had  placed  him,  he  ap- 
peared surprised,  and  was  evidently  unwilling  to 
believe  it. 

We  left  Nantua  about  half  past  eight,  and  began 
immediately  to  ascend  the  mountain.  The  road  over 
which  we  travelled,  made  with  great  labour  and  iex- 
pense,  extended  for  miles  along  a  precipice,  with  a 
prodigious  gulf  on  one  side  and  an  almost  perpen- 
dicular wall  on  the  other.  At  Bellegarde  we  stopped 
to  view  "  La  perte  du  Rhone,"  or  the  spot  where  the 
waters  of  this  river  entirely  disappear,  by  a  subter- 
ranean passage.  It  is  no  more  than  a  great  sluice  of 
rocks  formed  by  nature,  in  a  rapid  stream.  The 
river  is  confined  in  a  narrow  channel,  and  must  be 


GENEVA.  331 

very  deep.  The  rock  which  conceals  the  water,  lies 
much  lower  than  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  when 
the  river  is  full,  the  water  overflows  it.  This  shelf 
has  doubtless  been  formed  by  the  fall  of  rocks  from 
the  adjoining  mountains.  It  conceals  the  bed  of  the 
river  for  about  sixty  paces.  We  were  apprised  of 
our  approach  to  this  spot  long  before  we  reached  it, 
by  a  boy  who  came  running  to  us  without  a  hat,  and 
offering  himself  as  a  guide.  We  engaged  him,  but 
upon  our  alighting,  the  poor  boy  was  joined  by  a 
dozen  other  people,  some  of  them  women,  with  chil- 
dren in  their  arms,  and  all  insisting,  in  spite  of  our 
remonstrances,  to  show  us  the  way  to  "  La  perte  du 
Rhone,"  and  help  us  up  and  down  the  hills.  On  re- 
suming our  carriage  when  the  show  was  over,  we 
were  obliged  to  give  them  all,  at  least  a  sous  apiece 
to  appease  their  clamour.  Having  descended  the 
mountain,  the  country  became  level;  and  as  we  ap- 
proached the  borders  of  Switzerland,  the  appearance 
•of  the  houses  and  farms  changed  materially,  for  the 
better.  The  fields  were  enclosed  with  hedges,  and 
the  habitations  and  the  people  had  an  air  of  greater 
comfort.  There  is  no  natural  division  between  the 
canton  of  Geneva  and  the  French  territory. 

We  crossed  the  line  about  four  miles  from  the  t6wn, 
it  had  the  appearance  on  our  approach,  of  an  ancient 
place,  as  it  really  is ;  the  houses  are  mostly  of  stone, 
but  discoloured  by  time.  We  drove  to  the  "  balances 
d'or,"  and  obtained  lodging  rooms  in  the  fourth  story. 
Geneva  has  been  so  full  of  strangers  for  some  time, 
that  several  persons  have  found  it  difficult  to  procure 
accommodations.  In  the  course  of  our  journey  from 
Lyons,  we  have  noticed  for  the  first  time  in  Europe, 


332  GENEVA. 

the  cultivation  of  Indian  corn.  They  call  it  Ble  dt 
Tui-^uis^  or  Turkey  wheat.  It  is,  however,  a  very 
meagre  crop  in  this  part  of  the  world.  With  the  top 
cut  oflT,  as  we  generally  saw  it,  the  stalks  are  about  a 
foot  high,  and  bear  each  one  small  ear. 

17th.  On  calling  this  morning  to  deliver  my  let- 
ters of  introduction,  I  found  but  one  person,  out  of 
six  or  seven,  at  home.  This  was  Dr.  Berger,  who 
offered  his  services  with  great  politeness.  At  Pro- 
fessor Pictet's  I  was  informed  he  was  laid  up  with  an 
attack  of  rheumatism,  and  could  not  rise  from  his  bed. 
but  sent  a  request  that  I  would  call  at  five  o'clock. 
IVP*******  a  clergyman,  (or  as  he  is  termed  here,  a 
pastor,)  at  whose  house  I  had  left  a  letter  from  the 
Abbe  Gregoire,  called  to  see  me.  I  found  him  an 
exceedingly  intelligent,  kind,  and,  as  I  think,  a  worthy 
man.  He  gave  me  much  useful  information  respect- 
ing Geneva,  and  the  best  mode  of  proceeding,  so  as 
to  see  Switzerland  with  advantage  ;  and  kindly  inte- 
rested himself  in  procuring  the  means  of  our  visiting 
without;  delay,  the  valley  of  Chamouny.  We  had 
much  conversation  on  the  subject  of  war,  and  he  ap- 
peared to  perceive  its  spirit  and  tendency,  and  to  de- 
plore its  evils  with  a  truly  Christian  sensibility. 

I  learned  however,  from  this  worthy  man,  that  there 
IS  a  great  division  in  the  town,  on  the  subject  of  reli- 
gion, and  a  want  of  that  mutual  charity  among  differ- 
ent sects,  without  which,  it  is  questionable  whether 
the  genuine  fruits  of  Christianity  ever  can  be  produ- 
ced. How  grievously  has  the  cause  of  truth  suffered, 
from  the  want  of  that  spirit,  "which  thinketh  no  evil, 
which  is  not  easily  provoked,  which  suffereth  long 
{^nd  is  kind,  and  witliout  which  all  profession  is  as 


■GENEVA.  33;i 

sounding  brass  or  a  tinkling  cymbal  ?''  What  devasta* 
tions  has  Christendom  not  endured,  from  the  predomi- 
nance of  an  anti-Christian  spirit,  among  its  warmest 
professors ! 

We  dined  to-day  at  the  table  d'hote  of  our  inm 
The  dinner  was  served  much  in  the  French  style ; 
soup,  various  dishes  of  meat  and  vegetables,  wine, 
and  fruit.  The  tuneful  propensities  of  the  Swiss. 
were  evinced  by  a  part  of  the  entertainment.  This 
was  the  abrupt  entrance  into  the  dining-room,  of  a 
man  with  a  violin,  and  a  woman  with  a  guitar,  who 
placing  themselves  in  a  corner,  and  without  saying  a 
word,  commenced  playing,  the  woman  accompanying 
her  instrument  with  her  voice.  At  the  request  of  one 
of  the  company,  they  gave  the  national  or  Swiss  air., 
called  the  '•  Rans  de  Vache,"  which  is  said  to  produce 
so  great  an  effect  on  those  who  are  absent  from  their 
country.  The  note  is  soft  and  tender,  and  I  doubt 
not,  produces  an  immediate  association  of  ideaSj 
which  may  powerfully  affect  the  nervous  system. 

At  five  I  called  to  see  Professor  Pictet,  who  with 
some  effort  came  into  the  parlour,  and  gave  me  a 
welcome  reception.  I  staid  till  late  in  the  evening,  and 
enjoyed  a  very  pleasant  conversation  with  him  and 
his  daughters,  and  with  Dr.  Marcet  of  London,  who 
happened  to  be  there  on  a  visit.  Professor  Pictet  has 
three  daughters,  all  married,  and  who  all  reside,  oc- 
casionally, with  their  husbands  and  children,  under 
the  parental  roof  They  then  constitute  a  united  and 
truly  interesting  family. 


Vol.  I.  28 


334  GENEVA. 

LETTER    Xni. 

Geneva,  9th  month  (^Septem.)  25,  1818. 

My  DEAR  *****  AND  ****, 

I  ATTENDED  a  Iccturc  Oil  botany  at  eight  o'clock  thii? 
morning,  (the  18th,)  delivered  to  the  collegiate  class, 
by  Professor  De  Candolle.  It  consisted,  principally, 
of  a  definition  of  the  distinction  between  species  and 
varieties,  which  he  illustrated  by  a  reference  to  the 
animal  kingdom,  so  as  to  bring  his  meaning  fully 
within  the  comprehension  of  his  young  auditors.  His 
style  was  clear  and  manly,  and  his  enunciation  so 
distinct,  I  scarcely  lost  a  word.  He  impressed  me 
with  a  very  favourable  opinion  of  his  talents.  His 
audience,  besides  the  students,  comprehended  several 
amateurs  of  the  town.  Professor  De  Candolle  is  from 
the  south  of  France,  and  is  well  known  by  his  publi- 
cations on  botanical  subjects. 

At  Professor  Pictet's,  I  met  this  morning  his  oldest 
daugliter,  Madame  Vernet,  wife  of  the  President  of 
the  civil  tribunal  of  Geneva.  I  found  her  to  be  a  lady 
of  that  character,  with  which  a  stranger  must  be  imme- 
diately pleased,  and  become  almost  immediately  ac- 
quainted. Sincere  and  serious,  yet  open,  afifable,  and 
kind,  her  countenance  and  address  are  at  once  a 
pledge  of  the  amiable  qualities  of  her  rnind.  They 
live  in  the  country  in  summer,  and  with  her  father 
and  sisters  in  the  winter.  I  accepted  her  invitation 
to  dine  with  her  to-day  at  her  father's  table.  She  is 
very  active  in  charitable  and  religious  concerns.  Her 
oldest  daughter  is  married,  and  her  oldest  son  is  now 


GENEVA.  335 

at  school  in  England.  A  nephew,  by  marriage,  of 
Professor  P.'s,  took  me  to  see  a  house  he  is  build- 
ing for  himself.  It  is  fifty  feet  square,  and  will  cost 
about  50,000  dollars.  He  is  his  own  architect,  and 
the  design  does  great  credit  to  his  taste.  The  prin- 
cipal material  is  a  fine  free-stone,  found  near  the 
Jake  of  Geneva. 

19th.  We  set  off  this  morning  in  a  hired  voiture 
with  a  German  driver,  who  spoke  neither  French  nor 
English,  on  a  visit  to  Chamouny,  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Blanc.  The  road  lies  mostly  through  vallies 
between  alpine  ridges.  The  villages  are  not  very 
distant  from  each  other,  on  this  route ;  and  their  ap- 
pearance, in  general,  indicate  a  greater  degree  of 
industry  than  those  of  the  same  extent  in  France.  We 
entered  Savoy,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  lake ;  leav- 
ing, thereby,  the  government  of  Switzerland,  and 
passing  into  the  dominions  of  the  king  of  Sardinia, 
The  inhabitants  of  Savoy  are  mostly  Catholics,  an 
evidence  of  which  was  not  wanting  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  crucifixes,  and  the  great  increase  of  beg- 
gars. We  stopped  at  Bonneville,  a  town  of  about 
4000  inhabitants,  and  much  more  pleasantly  laid  out 
than  any  we  had  recently  passed  through.  In  the 
middle  of  it  is  a  large  triangular  area,  with  the 
houses  facing  it  on  each  side.  While  our  Dutchman 
and  his  horses  were  reposing,  we  regaled  ourselves 
in  a  small  house,  where,  according  to  the  usual  no- 
tice over  the  door,  "  On  donne  a  boire  et  a  manger." 
We  found  very  good  vin  ordinaire  and  the  cheese  of 
Switzerland,  le  fromage  a  Gruyere  is  held  in  esti- 
mation at  Paris.  From  the  ceiling  of  the  room  were 
suspended  enormous  sausages,  which  we  desired  our 


336^  EXCURSION    TO 

our  pleasant  little  landlady  to  let  us  taste.  Being 
thoroughly  dried,  they  required  no  cooking,  and  we 
found  them  tolerably  good.  The  attention  which 
was  paid  us  in  this  little  place,  and  the  grace  and 
politeness  with  which  we  were  waited  upon,  are  cha- 
racteristic of  French  and  Swiss  manners.  In  a  ram- 
ble over  the  town,  we  entered  a  church  yard,  and 
were  struck  with  the  appearance  of  a  large  crucifix. 
It  was  a  carved  image  of  the  body  of  our  Saviour,  as 
large  as  life,  nailed  to  the  cross,  and  accompanied 
by  the  ladder,  the  sponge,  the  hammer,  and  all  other 
implements  connected  with  the  crucifixion.  Such 
exhibitions  appear  to  me  to  indicate  a  degraded  condi- 
tion of  the  people,  both  intellectual  and  moral.  But  iri 
this  instance,  as  in  many  others,  it  must  be  the  rulers  of 
the  people  who  cause  them  to  err.  Such  a  servile  at- 
tention to  outward  forms,  must  tend  to  perpetuate  the 
influence  of  priestly  authority  and  superstition. 

The  river  Arve,  which  had  been  on  our  right  as 
far  as  Bonneville,  we  there  crossed,  on  a  stone 
bridge  ;  beyond  which  the  road  lay  through  a  finely 
cultivated  plain,  as  far  as  Cluse,  a  considerable  vil- 
lage, with  narrow  streets  and  heavy  stone  houses. 
We  here  crossed  the  Arve  again,  and  followed  its 
banks  between  two  mountains,  which  rose  majestical- 
ly above  us  to  the  height,  in  many  places,  of  8000 
feet.  The  side  of  the  mountain  on  our  left,  present- 
ed, generally,  an  abrupt  and  perpendicular  face  of 
calcareous  rock ;  the  top  of  which,  in  some  places, 
occupied  our  zenith.  We  could  hardly  lift  our  eyes 
to  its  awful  brow,  without  sensations  of  terror.  The 
passage  between  this  tremendous  wall  and  the  river, 
was,  now  and  then,  but  just  wide  enough  for  the  car- 


ciiAMoUiW.  337 

riage,  and  a  horseman  on  each  side,  to  pass.  We  were 
convinced  that  we  had  actually  reached  the  Alps 
and  were  in  one  of  the  most  romantic  and  sublime  of 
their  valleys.  The  road,  winding  along  the  river 
was  almost  a  perfect  level.  The  mountain  opposite 
was  sprinkled,  on  its  top,  with  a  recent  snow,  which,  in 
many  of  its  cavities,  had  accumulated  to  a  considera- 
ble depth,  and  would  not  disappear  till  driven  away  by 
the  sun  of  another  summer.  The  verdant  meadows, 
the  orchards  loaded  with  fi'uit,  the  clear  and  rapid 
current  of  the  Arve,  and  the  smoothness  and  beauty 
of  the  road,  contrasted  with  the  majesty  of  the  moun- 
tain scenery,  contributed  to  render  the  ride  through 
this  valley,  interesting  and  delightful  in  the  highest 
degree.  The  effect  was  much  heightened,  in  several 
places,  by  water  falls,  issuing  from  the  sides  of  the 
mountain.  Two  of  these,  JVant  d'orle^  and  JVantcfarpe- 
tiaSf  are  very  remarkable.  They  spring  from  the  rock, 
at  the  height,  probably,  of  3000  feet  from  the  valley, 
and  falling  perpendicularly  from  600  to  800  feet,  dash 
upon  a  shelving  portion  of  the  mountain,  and  rush 
with  fury  to  the  bottom. 

The  rocks  of  these  mountains  consist  chiefly  of 
carbonate  of  lime ;  some  granite  appears,  which  ought, 
perhaps,  to  be  regar4ed  as  a  kind  of  sienite,  rather 
than  true  granite.  The  quartz,  and  feldspar,  are  very 
distinct,  but  in  lieu  of  mica,  it  appears  to  contain  horn- 
blend.  The  stratification  of  the  mountain,  on  the 
right  of  the  Arve,  is  extremely  irregular.  The  beds 
are  sometimes  perpendicular,  in  some  places  horizon 
tal,  in  others  oblique,  and  in  others  curvilinear,  and 
twisted  in  the  most  curious  and  surprising  order.  Iii 
ene  place,  a  stream  of  water  flows  immediately  from 

28* 


338  EXCURSION    TO 

the  foot  of  the  rock,  without  any  apparent  opening- 
and  in  sufficient  quantity  to  turn  several  mills.  We 
passed  through  the  village  of  Maglan,  situated  in  the 
valley  of  the  Arve.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  thit 
town,  it  is  said,  leave  their  native  valley,  to  seek  their 
fortunes,  as  petty  traders  in  Germany,  and  return 
home  rich. 

We  arrived  at  the  village  of  St.  Martin,  before  sun 
down.     Here  we  were  to  stay  for  the  night.     The 
evening  being  remarkably  fine,  we  crossed  the  Arve 
on  a  beautiful  bridge,  and  walked  over  to  Salenche, 
a  very  considerable  village,  opposite  to  St.  Martins, 
and  ascended  a  hill  to  view  the  effect  of  the  sun's  de- 
clining light,   upon  Mount  Blanc.     The  scene  was 
truly  grand.     The  broad  range  of  the  mountain  was 
^ully  before  us,  of  a  pure  and  almost  glowing  white, 
apparently  to  its  very  base;    and  which,  contrasted 
with   the   brown   tints  of  the  adjoining   mountains, 
greatly  heightened  the  novelty  of  the  scene.     We 
could  scarcely  avoid  the  conclusion,  that  this  vast 
pile  of  snow  was  very  near  us,  and  yet  its  base  was 
not  less  than  fifteen,  and  its  summit  probably  more 
than  twenty  miles  from  the  place  where  we  stood. 
The  varying  shades  of  light,  produced  by  reflection 
from  the  snow,  as  the  sun's  rays  declined,  passing 
from  a  brilliant  white,  through  purple  and  pink,  and 
•ending  in  the  gentle  light  which  snow  gives,  after  the 
sun  has  set,  afforded  an  exhibition  in  optics,  upon  a 
scale  of  grandeur,  which  no  other  region  in  the  world 
could  probably  excel.     Never  in  my  life,  have  my 
feelings  been  so  powerfully  affected,  by  mere  scenery, 
as  they  were  in  this  day's  excursion.    The  excitement, 
though  attended  by  sensations  awfully  impressive,  is 


CHAMOUNY.  339 

nevertheless  so  finely  attempered  by  the  glow  of  novel- 
ty, incessantly  mingled  with  astonishment  and  admira- 
tion, as  to  produce,  on  the  whole,  a  feast  of  delight. 

A  few  years  since,  I  stood  upon  Table  Rock,  and 
placed  my  cane  in  the  descending  flood  of  Niagara. 
Its  tremendous  roar,  almost  entirely  precluded  con- 
versation, with  the  friend  at  my  side  ;  and  its  whirl- 
wind of  mist  and  foam,  filled  the  air  to  a  great  dis- 
tance around  me.  The  rainbow  sported  in  its  bosom. 
The  gulf  below  exhibited  the  wild  fury  of  an  im- 
mense, boiling  cauldron  ;  while  the  rapids  above,  for 
the  space  of  nearly  a  mile,  appeared  like  a  mountain 
of  billows,  chafing  and  dashing  against  each  other, 
with  thundering  impetuosity,  in  their  eager  strife 
to  gain  the  precipice,  and  take  the  awful  leap.  In 
contemplating  this  scene,  my  imagination  and  my 
heart  were  filled  with  sublime  and  tender  emotions. 
The  soul  seemed  to  be  brought  a  step  nearer  to  the 
presence  of  that  incomprehensible  Being,  whose  Spi- 
rit dwelt  in  every  feature  of  the  cataract,  and  direct- 
ed all  its  amazing  energies.  Yet,  in  the  scenery  of 
this  day,  there  was  more  of  a  pervading  sense  of  aw- 
ful and  unlimited  grandeur :  mountain  piled  upon 
mountain,  in  endless  continuity,  throughout  the  whole 
extent,  and  crowned  by  the  brightest  effulgence  of  an 
evening  sun,  upon  the  everlasting  snows  of  the  high- 
est pinnacle  of  Europe.  In  such  moments  of  excite- 
ment, with  what  ardour  did  I  wish  for  the  company 
of  some  of  those  who  were  far  distant,  to  partake  with 
me  in  the  pleasures  of  my  alpine  sensibilities,  and  to 
increase  them  by  sympathetic  emotion. 

We  returned  to  St.  Martin  before  dark,  and  put  up 
at  the  house  of  Chcnet,  called  the  "  Hotel  de  Mont 


340  EXCURSION    TO 

lilanc;"  how  much  more  appropriate  and  inviting  an 
appellation,  than  the  "Hotel  do  Waterloo,"  a  large 
inn  at  Salenche.  It  is  surprising  how  common  this 
term  has  become  in  England,  since  the  great  battle. 
Every  thing  that  can  be  strained  to  the  purpose,  its 
now  a  la  Waterloo.  To  me  it  is  disgusting,  as  I  have  no 
doubt  that  it  is  also  to  the  better  classes  in  England. 
This  is  the  first  time  I  have  seen  a  "  Waterloo"  hotel 
on  the  continent,  and  it  shows  that  we  have  got  fairlj 
away  from  France,  and  French  politics. 

20th.  Exchanging  our  Dutchman,  and  his  old  ca- 
lash, for  a  postillion,  and  a  pair  of  strong  mules,  we 
mounted  a  vehicle,  different  from  any  I  had  ever  set 
my  foot  in  before :  it  is  called  a  "  char-a-banc."  It 
is  an  open  four  wheeled  carriage,  with  two  side  seats, 
the  passengers  of  each  seat  sitting  with  their  backs  to 
each  other^  and  their  faces  to  the  wheels.  The  step 
on  which  the  feet  rest,  is  within  a  foot  of  the  ground, 
so  that  to  mount  and  dismount,  is  a  matter  of  sport. 
The  road  from  St.  Martin  to  Chamouny,  is  too  rough 
for  a  common  carriage. 

We  continued  our  route  through  this  valley,  on  the 
right  side  of  the  Arve,  over  a  rich  bottomed  soil, 
and  carefully  cultivated,  till  we  crossed  a  rapid  brook, 
which  flows  into  the  Arve.  This  we  ascended  about 
half  a  mile,  to  St.  Gervais,  a  house  built  in  a  kind  of 
glen,  under  the  mountains,  for  the  purpose  of  a  bath- 
ing place.  Several  springs  arise  here,  of  the  tempe- 
rature of  104°  F.  The  vtater  is  saline,  and  remark- 
ably transparent.  Air  is  constantly  rising  in  the 
spring,  very  copiously.  I  caught  some  of  it  in  a  tum- 
bler, and  found  it  to  be  incapable  of  supporting  com- 
bustion. 


CHAMOUNY.  341 

Recrossing  the  Arve,  and  passing  through  the  vil- 
lage of  Chede,  where  there  is  a  fine  water  fall,  and  a 
beautifully  transparent  lake  of  small  extent,  we  began 
to  ascend  the  mountain.  At  Servoz,  a  decent  little 
town,  we  stopped,  and  found  a  good  inn.  The  neigh- 
bours were  at  church :  they  are  mostly  Catholics,  On 
looking  in,  we  saw  the  priest  decorated  in  his  robes, 
and  performing  his  gesticulations  before  the  image  and 
the  altar.  When  these  were  accomplished,  a  latin 
hymn  was  sung,  which  appeared  to  terminate  the  ser- 
vice. The  sermon,  I  believe,  had  been  given  before. 
At  the  inn,  I  found  a  large  collection  of  the  minerals 
of  the  country  kept  for  sale,  and  an  attendant,  who  was^ 
well  acquainted  with  their  scientific  names.  At  a 
short  distance  from  Servoz,  on  an  insulated  hill,  were 
the  remains  of  a  Roman  chateau.  Whether  it  had 
been  the  secreted  habitation  of  some  gallant  knight, 
and  lady  fair,  who  sighed  to  each  other  in  this  moun- 
tain solitude,  or  the  abode  of  a  feudal  chieftain,  who 
held  dominion  over  his  little  tribe  of  mountaineers^ 
we  had  not  the  means  of  determining. 

We  crossed  again  the  Arve,  in  a  very  wild  spot, 
having  the  lofty  mountain  of  Buet  on  our  left,  and 
after  a  very  considerable  ascent,  entered  the  valley  of 
Chamouny,  about  two  o'clock.  This  valley  is  on 
the  north  side  of  Mount  Blanc,  and  while  it  contains 
sufficient  space  for  several  villages  and  farms,  it  af- 
fords the  finest  position  for  the  accommodation  of  tra- 
vellers,  who  come  to  visit  this  most  rugged  and  sublime 
of  all  the  alpine  regions.  The  glaciers,  of  which 
there  are  five  considerable  ones,  on  this  side  the 
mountain,  extend  themselves  into  the  valley,  and  are 
now  making  a  gradual  encroachment  upon  the  raea- 


342  CHAMOUNY. 

(lows  which  surround  them.  I  had  before,  no  jusl 
conception  of  the  nature  and  appearance  of  a  glacier. 
They  are  vast  bodies  of  ice,  formed  by  the  freezing  of 
the  water,  which  runs  down  from  the  snow,  on  the 
sides  of  the  mountain,  between  its  different  ridges, 
congealing  as  it  advances.  They  are  much  increased 
by  avalanches,  or  bodies  of  snow,  that  break  loose 
from  the  higher  declivities,  from  time  to  time,  and  fall 
into  these  valleys.  They  must  also  be  increased  by 
successive  accumulations  of  snow  and  rain,  every  win- 
ter. There  is  thus  formed  so  great  a  mass  of  ice, 
that  the  heats  of  summer  are  insufficient  to  reduce 
them,  though  the  valley  is  often  very  hot,  and  the 
streams  which  then  flow  from  their  sides,  are  very 
copious. 

Leaving  our  car  at  the  little  village  of  Montcuart. 
we  ascended  to  a  considerable  height  along  side  of 
the  Glacier  de  Bosson.  The  day  was  so  warm,  that 
(he  efforts  of  the  ascent,  put  us  into  a  profuse  perspi- 
ration. Our  way  was  at  first  over  meadows,  and 
then  through  groves  of  fir  trees,  continually  ascend- 
ing till  we  reached  the  great  platform  of  the  glacier. 
We  mounted  by  the  help  of  our  guide,  this  great  icy 
ridge,  and  passed  directly  across  it.  We  had  enga- 
ged a  guide  at  Servoz  to  conduct  us  across  this  gla- 
cier, which  is  the  largest  of  all  those  connected  with 
Mount  Blanc.  On  leaving  our  charabanc  to  ascend 
the  mountain,  we  were  joined  by  half  a  dozen  other 
guides,  requesting  the  liberty  to  join  us  as  conductors. 
It  was  in  vain  that  we  endeavoured  to  send  them  back, 
telling  them  we  were  already  supplied,  and  should 
not  want  their  services.  They  still  officiously  asked 
leave  to  accompany  us,  and  persevered  in  trudging 


CHAMOUNY.  343 

With  us  up  the  mountain,  though  we  informed  them 
that  they  need  not  expect  to  receive  any  compensa- 
tion for  their  services,  as  they  were  not  wanted.   But 
on  our  arrival  at  the  place  where  we  were  to  ascend 
the  glacier,  the  importance  of  these  new  attendants 
began  to  be  apparent,  and  we  found  that  without  the 
asistance  of  nearly  the  whole  number,  our  journey 
across  the  ice  would  have  been   extremely  hazard- 
ous, if  not   impracticable.     Some  were  employed   in 
cutting  steps  with  hatchets,  in  the  icy  hills,  to  enable 
us  to  ascend ;  others  went  forward  to  select  the  sa- 
fest paths  ;  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  great  experi- 
ence and  the  most  devoted  attention  of  these  men,  it 
would  have  been  folly  to  attempt  the  passage.     Two 
of  them  were  constantly  with  each  of  us,  bestowing 
the  most  careful  and  even  affectionate  attention  to 
our  safety.     They  feel  the  great  responsibility  of  their 
charge,  and  are  devoted  from  principle,  to  its  faith- 
ful execution.     On  landing  us  safely  on  the  opposite 
shore,  they  made  no  demand,  but  thankfully  received 
whatever  we  chose  to  give  them. 

The  width  of  this  glacier,  at  the  place  of  our  tran- 
sit, is  about  one  third  of  a  mile.  Its  surface  exhibits 
the  most  frightful  irregularity.  Fissures  of  a  foot  or 
two  feet  in  width,  and  many  hundreds  in  depth,  must 
be  stepped  over.  Cavernous  places  exist  in  the  great 
body  of  the  glacier,  into  which  streams  of  water  are 
pouring  with  a  loud  and  fearful  rumbling.  The  por- 
tion which  lay  below  us,  was  torn  up  into  large  coni- 
cal peaks  of  10  or  20  feet  in  height,  closely  wedged 
together  at  their  bases,  and  rearing  their  pointed  top^ 
in  formidable  and  terrific  grandeur. 

The  place  where  we  crossed  was  remarkably  levr 
el,  compared  with  the  surface  both  above  and  below 


344  CHAMOUNY. 

US.  We  were  provided  by  the  guides  with  long  poles 
pointed  with  iron.  They  are  extremely  useful.  The 
sun  was  so  warm  that  the  ice  afforded  only  an  agreea- 
ble freshness.  It  was  an  interesting  spectacle,  to  ob- 
serve on  the  same  spot,  these  two  extremes  of  nature ; 
the  freshness  of  the  trees  and  the  verdure  of  the  mead- 
ows, in  alliance  with  such  extended  masses  of  ice 
and  snow. 

We  were  agreeably  surprised,  and  unexpectedly 
refreshed,  after  the  fatigue  of  this  ascending  and  de- 
scending march,  by  meeting  on  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, several  maidens  of  the  village,  bringing  with 
them  clean  tumblers  and  decanters  full  of  delicious 
milk,  which  they  offered  to  us  at  a  moderate  price. 
We  proceeded  to  the  village  of  Chamouny,  or  as  it  is 
called,  the  Prieure,  and  found  excellent  quarters  at 
the  hotel  there.  Of  these  there  are  two,  the  Hotel 
de  Londre,  and  Hotel  de  L'Union,  differing  but  little 
in  their  accommodations.  The  village  contains  about 
100  houses.  Two  shops  or  cabinets  of  natural  histo- 
ry are  kept  here,  in  which  very  good  collections  of  the 
minerals  and  plants  of  this  Alpine  region,  are  expo- 
sed for  sale.  A  suite  of  the  former,  consisting  of 
small  specimens,  may  be  bought  for  6  francs,  compre- 
bending  about  one  hundred  varieties;  and  a  little 
herbarium  of  dried  plants  may  be  obtained  for  less 
than  two  dollars,  containing  nearly  a  hundred  species. 
One  of  these  I  bought  of  a  boy,  who  appeared  to  be 
well  acquainted  with  the  scientific  names  of  the  plants 
and  minerals  of  the  valley. 

21st.  After  an  early  breakfast,  we  mounted  each 
a  mule,  and  with  our  excellent  guide,  Michel  Paccard, 
we  set  out  for  Le  Croix  de  la  Flegere,  a  position  of 


CHAMOtJNY*  345 

the  mountain  on  the  side  of  the  valley  opposite  to 
Mount  Blanc.  We  rode  for  some  time  behind  a  flock 
of  one  hundred  goats,  which  a  herdsman  was  driving 
to  pasture.  These  animals  are  kept  for  their  milk, 
and  they  yield  a  very  notable  quantity  of  it.  The 
declivity  of  the  mountain  was  very  steep,  but  our 
mules  clambered  up  with  a  steady  foot,  and  with  sur- 
prising facility  considering  their  size  and  the  loads 
they  carry.  The  "  Cross"  is  at  an  elevation  which 
required  an  ascent  of  an  hour  and  a  half  On  gain- 
ing this  almost  dizzy  elevation,  what  was  our  sur- 
prize  to  find  a  dozen  children,  mostly  females,  and 
one  woman,  already  on  the  spot,  prepared  with  de- 
canters of  fresh  milk,  grapes,  pears,  cakes,  nuts  and 
brandy  for  our  refreshment.  Knowing  of  our  intend- 
ed ascent,  they  had  clambered  up  the  mountain,  with 
baskets  containing  all  those  articles,  and  were  eager 
to  induce  us  to  accept  of  their  commodities.  Although 
we  had  brought  a  good  store  of  provisions  with  us, 
we  could  not  do  less  than  to  take  some  of  their  ex- 
cellent mountain  milk,  and  to  eat  of  the  fruit  upon 
their  own  conditions,  which  were  always, "  ce  que  vous 
roulez,  messieurs."  Some  of  these  little  creatures 
that  had  clambered  up  the  mountain,  to  gain  a  few 
sous  by  the  disposal  of  their  provisions,  could  not 
have  been  more  than  7  years  old. 

The  view  which  we  obtained  from  La  Croix  de  la 
Flegere,  of  the  whole  chain  of  Mount  Blanc,  its  tow- 
ering summit,  its  undulations,  its  lofty  needles,  and  its 
immense  cavities,  all  bleached  with  the  frost  of  count- 
less ages,  were  enough  to  fill  the  mind  with  the  deep- 
est revereoce^-nay,  with  devotional  solemnity. 

Vol.  I,  29 


116 


CHAMOUNY. 


The  glaciers  which  extend  from  the  sides  of  this 
great  sire  of  mountains,  were  exhibited  in  full  per- 
spective, as  on  an  immense  map,  suspended  over  the 
valley.    It  was  a  spectacle  too  varied,  too  sublime,  and 
altogether  too  powerfully  impressive  to  be  either  felt 
or  understood  by  any  description,  however  eloquent; 
or  by  any  graphic  colouring,  however  true.     There  is 
no  attainable  situation  on  the  sides  of  Mount  Blanc 
itself,  which  could  have  given  us  half  so  correct  and 
expanded  a  view  of  the  whole  scenery  of  its  awfully 
extended  ridge,  and  the  towering  height  of  its  majes- 
tic dome,  its  glaciers,  and  its  needles, — in  short,  of  the 
entire    physiognomy  of  its  northern   front,   as   that 
which  we  obtained  from  this  elevated  point  of  the  op- 
posite mountain.      It  was  on  this  account  that  I  had 
decided  on  taking  the  advice  of  Professor  Pictet,  to 
ascend  to  the  cross  of  La  Flegere,  on  Mount  Brevent, 
as  the  means  of  gaining  a  correct  notion  of  the  topo- 
graphy of  this  particular  region, — in  preference  to 
the  views  we  should  have  had  from  any  of  the  more 
fashionable  places  of  resort  on  Mount  Blanc  itself. 

The  thunder  of  avalanches  was  heard  at  very  short 
intervals,  during  our  continuance  on  those  elevated 
summits.  They  consist  of  large  bodies  of  snow  and 
ice,  which,  accumulating  by  degrees  on  some  precipi- 
tous base,  acquire  at  length  a  form  and  position,  which 
render  that  base  inadequate  to  their  support.  When 
this  moment  arrives,  the  mass  disengages  itself  from 
the  surrounding  matter,  and  plunging  with  dreadful 
fury  from  its  giddy  elevation,  breaks  into  innumerable 
atoms  upon  the  glaciers  below.  The  neighbouring 
mountains  reverberate  the  thunder  of  its  fall,  and 
prolong  the  sound  by  repeated  echoes. 


CHAMOUNY.  347 

We  frequently  witnessed  the  motion  of  these  falling 
masses.     They  do  not  always  consist  of  ice  and  snow 
alone,  but,  by  their  weight,  and  the  prodigious  mo- 
mentum with  which  they  impinge  against  the  rocks 
and  trees,  in  their  descent,  they  carry  down  with  them 
numerous  fragments,  some  of  which  are  of  large  size. 
The  avalanches  of  the  spring  and  summer  generally 
consist  of  larger  and  more  coherent  masses  than  those 
of  the  winter.     The  tremendous  velocity  which  they 
acquire  in  these  mountain  leaps,  sometimes  occasions 
such  a  lateral  pressure  of  the  atmosphere,  as  to  pros- 
trate the  trees  on  each  side,  and  even  to  overturn  the 
habitations  which  are  situated  on  the  hills  opposite  to 
their  descent.     In  crossing  the  glaciers,  one  is  sur- 
prised to  meet  with  such  quantities  of  rocks  and  other 
terrene  masses,  lodged  in  bodies  of  ice  of  some  hun- 
dreds, and,  probably,  thousands  of  feet  in  thickness. 
Those  earthy  and  more  ponderous  portions  of  the  fall- 
ing materials  accumulate,  by  the  wasting  of  the  upper 
surface  of  the  ice  during  summer,  into  large  heaps  at 
the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  glaciers,  and  add  much  to 
the  terrific  appearance  of  this  most  gigantic  display  of 
mountain  revolution.     We  were  obliged  to  descend 
without  our  mules,  for  had  we  undertaken  to  ride 
them,  the  least  stumble  might  have  plunged  us  head- 
long down  the  mountain.     To  those  unaccustomed  to 
this  kind  of  travelling,  the  descent  from  a  great  ele- 
vation, is  found  to  be  quite  as  fatiguing  as  the  ascent. 
No  remarkable  change  in  the  atmosphere  was  ob- 
servable at  the  height  to  which  we  attained,  and  I 
think  it  probable,  that  the  accounts  we  have  some- 
times heard  of  the  difficulty  of  breathing  on  the  tops 
of  mountains,  may  be,  in  part,  exaggeration ;  or,  at 


348  CH  AMOUNT. 

least,  that  the  difficulty  may  arise,  in  some  measure, 
from  the  peculiar  state  of  the  atmosphere  at  the  time, 
as  well  as  from  the  elevation  ;  for  we  not  unfrequentlj? 
experience  a  degree  of  pulmonary  obstruction,  from  u 
want  of  atmospheric  elasticity,  on  level  ground.  Our 
guide,  on  whose  veracity  we  placed  great  confidence, 
informed  us,  that  he  was,  three  years  ago,  on  the  high- 
est pinnacle  of  Mount  Blanc,  and  that  he  experienced 
no  uneasiness  whatever.  I  would  not,  by  any  means, 
imply  that  the  atmosphere,  on  high  mountain  eleva- 
tions, is  equally  favourable  to  respiration  as  on  the 
level  of  the  ocean :  the  statements  of  Saussure  and 
others  would  abundantly  disprove  this ;  but  merely  to 
express  the  belief,  that  the  general  opinion  on  this 
•jubject  may  go  beyond  the  truth.  Upon  reaching  the 
plain  we  rode  to  the  source  of  the  Arveron,oneof  the 
branches  of  the  Arve.  This  stream  rises  at  the  foot 
of  the  glaciere  De  Bois,  from  which  issues  sufficient 
water  to  produce  a  large  and  rapid  brook.  A  singu- 
lar and  curious  appearance  is  presented  at  the  spot 
where  this  river  flows  from  the  ice.  The  small 
streams,  which  run  in  secret  channels  down  the  gja- 
uiers,  unite  previous  to  their  discharge,  and  then  burst 
out  with  such  force  as  to  produce  at  once  an  impetu- 
ous and  a  copious  current.  The  violence  of  this  erup- 
tion wears  away  the  ice  at  the  place  of  its  exit,  and 
forms  a  large  vault  or  cavern,  which,  at  particular 
seasons,  may  be  entered  to  a  considerable  depth. 
This  vault  is  said  to  present  a  sublime  but  terrific  as- 
pect. The  very  fragile  materials  of  which  the  roof  is 
composed,  and  the  perpetual  changes  it  is  undergoing, 
would  be  sufficient,  one  would  think,  to  deter  the 
boldest  adventurer  from  entering  far,  or  remaining 


CHAMOUNY.  319 

long,  in  this  icy  cavern.  Yet  the  curiosity  of  one  in- 
dividual, a  respectable  citizen  of  Geneva,  impelled 
him  to  an  act,  which  was  attended  with  fatal  conse- 
quences, and  which  will,  doubtless,  serve  as  a  warning 
to  others.  He  entered  this  cavern,  with  his  son  and 
nephew,  and,  when  fully  within  its  enclosure,  he  fired 
a  pistol,  to  observe  the  effect  of  the  sound;  but 
the  concussion  of  the  air  so  jarred  the  brittle  fabric 
as  to  bring  down  a  large  mass  of  ice  upon  the  un- 
fortunate adventurers.  His  son  was  killed,  his  ne- 
phew was  grievously  wounded,  and  he  himself  had 
one  of  his  legs  broken. 

This  glacier  is  making  advances  upon  the  plain, 
and  has  nearly  overtaken  a  house,  which,  when  first 
built,  was  at  a  becoming  distance  from  this  creeping 
mountain  of  enduring  ice.  Its  height,  as  it  advances, 
is  surprisingly  great.  I  asked  the  guide  his  opinion, 
and  he  said,  it  was  at  least  300,  and,  in  some  places, 
he  thought,  500  toises  (3000  feet)  above  the  plain. 
It  presents  a  surface,  on  all  sides,  extremely  rugged. 

Although  Mount  Blanc  appears,  at  all  seasons,  to 
be  wrapped  in  a  deep  fold  of  snow,  of  a  brilliant 
white,  it  is  not,  as  my  guide  stated,  to  be  considered 
as  snow,  but  rather  as  a  covering  of  ice  from  bottom 
to  top.  The  heat  of  the  sun,  during  the  long  days  of 
summer,  softens  the  particles  of  snow ;  and  by  the 
cold  of  the  night,  they  are  compacted  into  ice.  Over 
the  surface  of  this,  or  rather  in  gullies  worn  in  the  ice. 
water,  during  the  warm  season,  is  constantly  pouring. 

The  number  of  visiters  at  Chamouny,  more  espe- 
cially since  the  general  peace,  has  been  remarkably 
great ;  but  it  is  still  more  remarkable  that  this  valle_v 
should  have  remained   unexplored,  and  almost  uu 

29* 


350  CHAMOUNT. 

known  until  1741.  In  that  year  its  position  and  60- 
perior  advantages  for  viewing  Mount  Blanc,  were 
made  known  by  Pococke,  the  celebrated  English  tra- 
veller. It  is  now  as  populous  as  the  soil  will  admit  of; 
and  indeed  a  great  portion  of  its  inhabitants  must  be 
supported  by  travellers,  whom  its  wild  and  wonderful 
scenery  attracts  to  this  spot.  We  left  this  interesting 
valley  about  two  o'clock,  to  return  to  Geneva,  not 
without  impressions  arising  from  the  visit,  which  can 
never  be  effaced,  while  memory  retains  its  powers. 

The  inhabitants,  of  this  and  the  adjoining  valley,  as 
far  as  our  intercourse  with  them  extended,  appeared  to 
partake  of  much  of  that  amiable  simplicity  of  manners 
which  have  usually  been  ascribed  to  the  Swiss  cha- 
racter. The  great  influx  of  strangers,  at  Chamouny, 
will,  it  is  to  be  iieared,  be  productive  of  no  benefit  to 
ihem  in  a  moral  point  of  view;  but  it  was  pleasing  to 
discover,  that,  notwithstanding  the  introduction  of 
inany  thousands  of  visiters  from  almost  every  country 
of  Europe,  during  the  last  few  years,  and  the  conse- 
quent enlargement  of  their  commerce  and  their  gains, 
no  very  perceptible  deterioration  has  yet  become 
obvious.  Their  peculiar  habits  and  customs  have 
been  fixed  by  the  authority  of  ages,  and  will  not  ve- 
ry speedily  yield  to  the  influence  of  temporary  oc- 
currences. The  agricultural  labours  of  the  valley 
are  performed  chiefly  by  the  women.  The  men  are  en- 
gaged as  guides  to  strangers,  in  collecting  minerals  and 
plants  for  sale,  or  in  hunting  the  wild  chamois  in  his 
cloud  capped  haunts,  inaccessable  to  all  but  those  who 
are  accustomed  to  clamber  over  those  dizzy  heights. 

Although  the  summit  of  Mount  Blanc,  is  in  plain 
view  from  Ihe  priory  or  church  of  Chamouny,  and 


MOUNT  BLANC.  351 

cannot  be  considered  as  more  than  seven  English 
miles  distant  from  it,  on  a  line  drawn  upon  the 
slope  of  the  mountain,  yet  no  one,  who  is  aware  of 
the  nature  of  the  undertaking,  will  wonder  that 
this  pinnacle  was  never  marked  by  human  foot-step, 
until  within  the  last  forty  years.  It  was  not  to  be 
expected,  that  while  the  mountain  was  looked  upon 
only  by  the  gaze  of  blank  indifference,  any  motive 
could  exist,  that  would  tempt  an  individual  to  make 
the  fearful  effort ;  or  that  until  science  had  kindled 
its  living  fires  in  the  mind  of  the  traveller,  and  given 
to  his  curiosity  a  noble  and  dignified  aim,  that  this 
perilous  journey  would  ever  be  encountered. 

The  researches  of  modern  philosophy  into  the 
nature  and  qualities  of  the  atmosphere  at  different 
heights  and  places,  naturally  prompted  the  desire  to 
ascend  to  the  highest  of  European  elevations,  and  re- 
wards were  held  out,  (in  a  particular  manner  by  the 
celebrated  Saussure,)  to  any  one  who  would  point 
out  a  practicable  and  safe  route  to  the  summit  of 
JVJount  Blanc.  Various  unsuccessful  attempts  were 
made  by  different  persons,  some  of  whom  succeeded 
in  attaining  to  elevations  much  higher  than  any  one 
had  ever  before  trodden.  Saussure  himself  made 
the  attempt,  in  company  with  Bourrit,  of  Geneva, 
and  assisted  by  12  guides,  well  provided  with  instru- 
ments for  observation.  They  advanced  beyond  the 
Dome  de  Goute,  a  remarkable  point  at  an  elevation 
of  more  than  8,200  feet ;  but  a  violent  snow  storm  pre-f 
vented  their  further  progress.  This  was  on  the  1 4th 
of  September,  1785.  In  July  next  year,  James  Bal- 
mat,  one  of  the  guides  of  Chamouny,  passed  a  night 
f>n  a  spot  above  the  Dome  de  Goute,  and  discovered, 


:ii>2  MOUNT  BLANC. 

as  he  believed,  a  way  by  which  the  summit  might  be 
gained.  On  his  return  to  Chamouny,  he  was  seized 
with  illness,  occasioned  by  the  fatigue  and  exposure 
he  had  endured  on  the  mountain.  He  was  attended 
by  Dr.  Paccard ;  and  to  him,  as  a  reward  for  his  pro- 
fessional services,  he  communicated  his  discoveries, 
and  offered  to  conduct  him  to  the  summit.  Accor- 
dingly, on  the  7th  of  August,  they  left  the  priory,  and 
passed  the  following  night  on  the  heights  of  La  Cote, 
a  mountain  which  overhangs  the  Glacier  de  Bosson. 
The  next  morning  they  passed  over  the  Dome  de 
Goute,  and  struggling  heroically  against  the  most 
pinching  cold,  a  violent  and  piercing  wind,  and  exces- 
sive fatigue,  they  attained  the  pinnacle  for  the  first 
time  within  the  knowledge  of  man.  Here  they  re- 
mained half  an  hour.  Their  provisions  and  ink  froze 
in  their  pockets  !  They  effected  their  descent  with- 
out any  serious  injury,  and  thus  prepared  the  way  for 
future  adventurers. 

Their  example  was  soon  followed  by  the  enterpri- 
sing and  indefatigable  Saussure,  accompanied  by  a 
servant  and  18  guides,  who  carried  his  tents,  philo- 
sophical apparatus  and  other  necessaries.  He  gain- 
ed the  pinnacle,  which  he  found  to  be  a  ridge,  nearly 
horizontal,  extending  east  and  west,  and  so  narrow 
as  scarcely  to  allow  two  people  to  walk  abreast.  He 
remained  on  the  summit  four  and  a  half  hours,  which 
afforded  time  for  those  extensive  and  interesting  ob- 
servations, which  he  has  published  in  the  fourth  vo- 
lume of  his  "  Voyages  dans  les  Alpes."  I  can  do 
nothing  more  than  merely  to  give  some  of  the  principal 
results  of  the  different  observations  that  have  been 
made  upon  this  mountain.      A  history  of  the  various 


MOUNT  BLANC.  353 

successful  and  unsuccessful  endeavours  to  scale  its 
hoary  sides,  with  the  discoveries  and  calculations  of 
different  philosophers,  would  fill  a  volume.  The 
height  of  the  summit,  taking  the  mean  of  some  of  the 
best  observations,  is  2450  toises=l 5,673  English  feet^ 
or  nearly  three  miles  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
is  14,556  feet  above  the  lake  of  Geneva,  and  11,532 
feet  above  the  vale  of  Chamouny.  Its  actual  height 
is  5236  feet  less  than  the  summit  of  Chimborazo,  and 
about  10,000  feet  less  than  the  highest  peak  of  the 
Great  Himmalaya  chain  in  Asia.  But  Mount 
Blanc  rises  higher  above  the  level  of  the  adjoining 
country  than  Chimborazo,  and  therefore  makes  a 
more  conspicuous  figure  in  the  eye  of  the  observer^ 
as  a  distinct  and  insulated  object.  The  temperature 
on  the  summit  is  from  three  to  five  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit, below  freezing  in  the  summer.  Saussure's  ther- 
mometer was  at  27°  F.  on  the  top  of  the  mountain^ 
while  that  of  Sennebier  at  Geneva  was  at  82^  F. 
The  barometer  at  the  same  time,  viz.  3d  of  August  at 
noon,  was  16,18]  inches,  (English,)  while  atGenevait 
stood  at  29,020  inches.  There  is  no  bare  rock  to  be 
seen  within  150  yards  of  the  top;  and  almost  the  whole 
body  of  the  mountain  on  the  north  side,  excepting 
those  abrupt  and  sharp  pyramids,  called  needles,  is  en- 
veloped in  an  everlasting  mantle  of  ice  and  snow.  The 
rocks  of  the  highest  peaks  are  considered  by  most  ge- 
ologists as  granite ;  but  Professor  Jurin,  ofGeneva,  one 
of  the  most  learned  naturalists  of  the  age,  told  me  he 
had  serious  doubts  of  the  correctness  of  the  term  gra- 
nite, as  applied  to  those  rocks.  The  air  of  the  summit^ 
according  to  Saussure's  hygrometer,  was  six  times  less 
humid  than  the  air  of  Geneva.     The  electricity  of  the 


354  MOUNT  BLANC. 

atmosphere  was  positive ;  and  experiments  with  lime 
water  showed  that  it  contained  carbonic  acid.  The 
least  exertions,  occasioned  to  Saussure,  a  laborious 
and  painful  respiration.  The  sound  of  a  pistol  was 
as  feeble  as  that  of  a  Chinese  cracker  let  off  in  a 
room.* 

At  St.  Martin,  where  we  again  lodged,  we  found  a 
number  of  persons,  chiefly  English,  on  their  way  to 
Chamouny.  A  heavy  rain  this  morning  did  not  pre- 
vent us  from  pursuing  our  journey  toward  Geneva. — 
Agreeably  to  a  previous  invitation,  I  stopped  at  the 
dwelling  of  Vernet,  with  the  intention  of  staying  all 
night.  Their  country  residence  is  about  five  miles 
from  the  town,  on  the  border  of  the  Canton,  near 
Savoy.  In  addition  to  the  pleasure  of  a  kind  and 
courteous  reception,  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  meet 
there  with  three  female  visiters;  two  of  them  from 
Scotland,  (a  Lady  C*******  and  her  daughter,)  and 

*  Two  of  my  American  friends,  Dr.  Van  Rensselaer  of  New- York,  and 
Dr.  Howard  of  Baltimore,  ascended  to  the  top  of  Mont  Blanc,  accompa- 
nied by  nine  guides,  on  the  12th  of  July  1819,  and  remained  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  on  its  highest  pinnacle. 

On  the  11th  of  the  following  month,  Captain  J.  Undrell  of  the  British 
Navy,  also  reached  the  top,  where  he  spent  three  hours.  "  The  thermo-- 
meter  in  the  sun  was  33°,  placed  upon  the  snow  with  the  same  aspect,  it 
sunk  in  five  minutes  to  25°.  Suspended  towards  the  north  in  a  cold  current 
of  air,  it  was  14°  ;  and  in  the  same  spot  with  the  bulb  in  the  snow,  fell  to 
9°.  He  caused  a  pistol  to  be  discharged  several  times,  and  found  that  the 
cessation  of  the  report  was  instantaneous.  The  very  highest  rock  is  highly 
crystaline  hornblende,  and  steatite.  The  latter  might  be  mistaken  for 
compact  feldspar,  but  it  yields  to  pressure  and  the  knife.  The  rock  called 
Petit  Mulct,  is  the  protogene  of  Professor  Jurine,  consisting  of  quartz,  feld- 
spar, and  steatite.  Annals  of  Philosophy,  June,  1821. 

Two  unsuccessful  attempts  to  ascend  Mont  Blanc,  were  made  by  Dr. 
Ilamel,  counsellor  of  state  to  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  in  August  1820.  In 
the  last  of  these  the  whole  party  was  in  immineut  danger,  and  three  of  the 
guides  actually  perished. 


RETURN  TO  GENEVA.  355 

the  other  from  England.  It  is  rare  to  meet  with 
persons,  of  either  sex,  of  more  improved  under- 
standings than  were  the  ladies  of  this  little  group  ; 
and  we  had  an  intellectual  and  very  agreeable  eve- 
ning. They  all  spoke  both  French  and  English,  and 
the  conversation  was  in  either  language,  as  inclina- 
tion directed.  The  topics  were  mostly  of  an  el- 
evated character,  and  seasoned,  throughout,  with 
ihe  evidence  of  piety  and  Christian  benevolence. 
We  were  joined,  in  the  evening,  by  Vernet  himself; 
whose  official  duties,  as  one  of  the  judges  of  the  Can- 
ton, occupy  much  of  his  time,  and  induce  him,  in  con- 
formity to  custom,  to  leave  to  his  wife,  the  principal 
management  of  her  house  and  family.  And  happy 
would  it  be,  if,  in  all  other  cases,  maternal  and  do- 
mestic influence  were  exercised  with  the  same  en- 
lightened judgment,  piety,  and  feeling.  They  have 
five  children,  three  of  whom  are  at  home.  Before 
we  retired  to  rest,  the  servants  were  called  in,  (six  in 
number,)  when  the  mother  read,  very  seriously,  first 
a  prayer,  and  then  a  chapter  of  the  New  Testament. 
23d.  Vernet  being  obliged  to  be  in  town  seasonably 
on  the  days  of  session,  we  took  an  early  breakfast,  and  I 
parted  from  his  worthy  family,  with  sentiments  of  great 
friendship  and  respect.  He  brought  me  to  Geneva 
in  his  charabanc,  (a  neat  little  vehicle,  peculiar,  as 
far  as  I  know,  to  Switzerland,)  which  he  drove  him- 
self We  passed  through  one  or  two  villages,  which 
formerly  belonged  to  Savoy,  but  which  are  now. 
agreeably  to  the  last  political  demarcation,  attached 
to  the  canton  of  Geneva.  The  Savoyards  are  nearly 
all  Catholics ;  but  notwithstanding  that  the  canton  is 
under  a  Protestant  government,  they  are  well  satisfied 


356  6ENEVA. 

with  the  change ;  for  the  Sardinian  government,  is 
said  to  be  chargeable,  with  a  want  of  liberality  to- 
wards its  subjects.  Vernet  informed  me,  that  as 
for  as  the  experience  of  the  tribunal,  over  which  he 
presides,  would  justify  a  conclusion,  it  might  be  in- 
ferred, that  the  principles  of  the  Protestant  religion, 
were  more  favourable  to  morals,  than  those  of  the 
Catholic.  But  so  many  other  things,  besides  mere  re- 
ligious dogmas,  are  to  be  taken  into  the  account,  in 
deciding  this  question,  by  the  record  of  a  court  of 
justice,  not  much  reliance,  he  thought,  could  be  placed 
in  their  result. 

Being  introduced  to  Professor  Prevost,  I  had  a 
pleasant  conversation  with  him,  prior  to  the  com- 
mencement of  his  lecture,  which  I  attended.  He  has 
the  department  of  moral  philosophy,  in  the  college; 
but  to  help  out  the  dryness  of  his  subject,  which  is 
concerned  only  with  the  inward  light,  he  unites  op- 
tics with  it,  and  lectures,  once  a  week,  on  the  light  of 
the  sun.  He  is  justly  esteemed,  as  a  learned  man. 
and  a  sound  reasoner,  and  has  long  been  known,  as 
one  of  the  promoters  of  natural  science.  He  con- 
ducted me,  after  the  lecture,  to  the  rooms  of  a  reading 
society,  which  has  recently  been  set  on  foot.  One 
apartment  is  appropriated  to  journals,  domestic  and 
foreign,  and  is  well  supplied.  In  another  room,  a  good 
foundation  is  laid  for  a  library ;  and  a  third  is  appro- 
priated to  the  German  language.  In  other  apart- 
ments, lectures  are  to  be  delivered,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  town,  on  such  physical  and  moral  subjects,  as 
may  accord  with  the  prevailing  taste.  This  institu- 
tion is  quite  in  its  infancy,  and  its  eventual  success  is 
uncertain. 


GENEVA.  35t 

Dr.  B.  introduced  me  to  Professor  Jurine,  the 
friend  and  frequent  companion  of  Saussure.  We 
spent  an  hour  or  two  in  his  cabinet,  which  compre- 
hends an  excellent  collection  of  minerals,  in  which 
are  not  wanting  those  which  particularly  belong  to 
the  United  States.  This  cabinet  is  remarkable  for  its 
variety,  and  the  neatness  of  its  arrangement.  It  in* 
eludes  likewise  an  entomological  collection,  the  ob- 
jects of  which  are  disposed  with  uncommon  neatness 
and  advantage,  between  two  glasses,  in  little  frames, 
so  that  they  can  be  viewed  on  both  sides,  without  ex- 
posure to  the  air.  Professor  Jurine  appeared  to  me 
to  be  a  mild,  agreeable,  and  very  estimable  man.* 

24th.  The  table  d'hote  of  our  inn,  affords  excellent 
fare,  and  in  sufficient  variety.  The  lake  of  Geneva 
contains  about  twenty-nine  varieties  of  fish,  some  of 
which  are  very  fine. 

Professor  Pictet  conducted  me  to  the  Academy  of 
Painting.  It  contains  but  a  small  collection ;  but  the 
school  of  drawing  attached  to  it,  appears  to  be  well 
supported.  We  went  to  see  the  artist  Gaudin,  whose 
models  of  the  Alps  are  so  justly  admired.  They  are 
beautiful  representations,  in  wood,  of  different  por- 
tions of  Alpine  scenery,  exactly  conformable  to  what 
would  appear,  from  a  bird's  eye  view,  of  the  district 
represented:  the  lakes  are  made  of  glass.  He  is 
preparing  one,  which  will  cover  a  surface  of  sixty- 
two  square  yards,  and  which  will  represent  the 
greater  part  of  Switzerland,  with  its  lakes  and  ele- 
vations. 

We  afterwards  called  on  Dr.  Marcet,  and  were  in- 
troduced to  his  wife,  known  as  the  very  sensible  and 

*  He  died  on  the  20th  October,  1819,  after  three  days  illness. 

Vol.  I.  30 


358  GENEVA. 

judicious  author  of  conversations  on  chemistry ;  and 
more  recently  those  on  poHtical  economy.  We  found 
there  also,  Professors  Prevost  and  De  Candolle. 
They  had  been  amusing  themselves  with  sending  up 
a  paper  balloon,  three  feet  in  diameter,  which  rose 
to  a  great  height,  and  then  took  fire.  The  remainder 
of  the  evening  \  spent  with  Alderman  Wood,  and  fa- 
mily, who  had  just  arrived  from  Italy. 

25th.  1  attended  this  morning  a  lecture  by  Pro- 
fessor Pictet,  on  galvanism.  He  conducts  his  course 
with  little  apparatus,  and  that  which  he  does  use,  be- 
longs mostly  to  himself;  the  college  not  being  in  a 
condition  at  present  to  provide  itself  with  instruments. 
He  was  therefore  obliged,  in  illustrating  the  facts  of 
galvanism,  to  use  diagrams  drawn  on  a  black  board 
with  chalk.  A  board  of  this  kind  covers  the  profes- 
sors' table.  Its  surface  is  preserved  by  a  folding  lid 
or  cover,  which  is  fastened  by  a  lock.  He  did  not 
enter  much  upon  the  iheori/  of  galvanism.  He  showed 
the  students  Dr.  Wollaston's  miniature  battery,  and 
the  eagerness  vi^ith  which  they  endeavoured  to  see 
and  comprehend  its  action,  sufficiently  evinced  the 
advantages  of  experimental  illustration,  over  a  mere 
verbal  definition,  |>owever  correct  and  elaborate. 
The  professors  in  this  college,  question  two  or  three 
of  the  students,  upon  the  principles  of  the  last  lecture, 
at  the  commencement  of  the  succeeding.  The  names 
of  those  to  be  questioned,  are  drawn  by  lot,  so  that 
none  knows  upon  whom  it  will  fall.  The  lecture-room 
of  the  professors  (the  same  room  serving  most,  or  all 
of  them,)  is  a  very  indifferent  one. 

We  dined  with  Alderman  Wood  and  family,  at  their 
lodgings.     The  rank  which  this  gentleman  has  held, 


GENEVA.  359 

as  Lord  Mayor  of  London,  for  two  successive  years, 
and  that  which  he  now  holds,  both  as  a  magistrate 
and  member  of  parliament  for  the  city,  demonstrates 
the  confidence  placed  in  his  fidelity  and  public  spirit. 
His  unafTected  affability,  without  the  least  shadow  of 
pride  or  hauteur,  has  rendered  him  the  most  popular 
man  in  London.  At  his  first  election  in  parliament, 
he  was  chosen  without  opposition ;  and  at  the  last,  his 
name  was  by  far  the  highest  on  the  successful  ticket. 
His  attention  to  charitable  and  humane  institutions, 
proceeds,  I  believe,  from  principle.  He  makes  no 
pretensions  beyond  his  acquirements.  He  has  a  son, 
a  youth  of  sixteen,  in  the  college  at  Geneva. 

Having  introduced  Professor  Pictet  to  Alderman 
Wood  and  family,  the  evening  was  spent  very  agree- 
ably at  the  house  of  the  former,  where  were  assem- 
bled a  considerable  number  of  professors  and  other 
citizens.  Among  them  was  M******,  a  distinguished 
surgeon  of  Geneva,  and  a  well  informed  and  enlight- 
ened man.  His  wife  is  an  Englishwoman,  and  two  of 
his  daughters  are  married  and  settled  in  England. 
He  is  pretty  well  acquainted  with  the  state  of  our 
country,  and  takes  a  lively  interest  in  the  condition  of 
the  blacks.  Of  the  superior  talents  of  Professor  De 
C*******,  1  was  convinced,  from  the  conversation  we 
had  together  this  evening.  Among  the  incidents  of 
the  evening,  was  the  narration  of  an  occurrence 
of  second-sight,  in  a  person  under  the  influence  of 
epilepsy.  He  could  hear  distinctly  what  was  said  to 
him,  when  the  mouth  of  the  speaker  was  placed 
on  his  breast.  He  was  aware  of  the  passing  by  of  a 
person  in  a  carriage,  whose  name  he  mentioned,  and 
whom  he  could  not  possibly  see.     He  replied  appro- 


360  GENEVA. 

priately  to  sorae  remarks  expressed  to  him  in  writing, 
by  drawing  the  paper  across  his  lips,  and  thus  ascer- 
taining its  contents ;  having  his  eyes  the  whole  time 
closely  shut!  What  credit  may  be  due  to  the  story, 
1  ca,nnot  affirm,  but  it  would  certainly  require  a  great 
weight  of  evidence  to  place  it  in  the  rank  of  unques- 
tionable facts ;  and  yet,  such  is,  and  always  has  been, 
the  mysterious  nature  of  our  sentient  principle,  as  to 
render  it  important,  that  we  do  not  carry  our  incredu- 
lity too  far,  in  relation  to  its  spiritual  faculties. 

I  had  the  exquisite  satisfaction  of  receiving  this 
afternoon,  your  letter  of  the  last  month,  containing 
the  most  favourable  accounts  of  your  welfare. 

My  friend  B.  D******  of  Manchester,  from  whom 
I  had  received  a  letter  when  in  Paris,  signifying  his 
intention  to  join  me  in  Switzerland,  arrived  this  even- 
ing, greatly  to  my  satisfaction,  as  my  American  com- 
panions had  expressed  a  wish  to  abandon  their  pro- 
ject of  visiting  Switzerland  at  this  time  and  to  go 
directly  into  Italy.  He  was  accompanied  by  Dr.  S*** 
of  Manchester,  a  young  man  who  has  jusi  graduated 
as  M.  D.  at  Edinburgh.  They  are  both  members 
of  our  Society, 


GENEVA.  361 

LETTER    XIV. 

Hofwyl,  10th  month,  (October)  3,  1818. 

My  dear  *****, 

In  company  with  some  of  our  London  and  Gene- 
vese  acquaintance,  among  whom  was  one  of  the  ma- 
gistrates of  the  town,  we  visited  the  asylum  for  the 
insane,  the  hospital,  and  the  prison.  The  two  former 
join  each  other,  or  are  rather  two  parts  of  the  same 
range  of  buildings.  They  have  both  the  serious  dis- 
advantage of  having  been  constructed  before  just  no- 
tions were  entertained  of  the  most  salutary  modes  of 
treatment,  more  especially  of  those  who  are  affected 
with  mental  disorders.  The  rooms  are,  accordingly, 
small  and  awkwardly  arranged,  the  court  yard  paltry 
and  inconsiderable,  and  the  cells  paved  with  stone, 
damp,  and  uncomfortable.  The  number  of  insane  is 
but  small.  The  convalescents  we  did  not  see,  as  they 
are  properly  kept  out  of  sight.  Those  maniacs  which 
we  did  see,  were  mostly  in  a  high  state  of  phrenzy. 
One  woman  was  singularly  affected.  Though  in  per- 
fect health  of  body,  she  fancies  herself  to  he  under 
a  mortal  and  disgraceful  disease,  and  loudly  and  in- 
cessantly bewails  her  condition.  Another  of  the  fe- 
male lunatics,  most  happily  employs  herself  in  knit- 
ting coarse  straw  into  shirts  and  bonnets,  a  store  of 
which  she  keeps  by  her.  The  whole  of  this  depart- 
ment appeared  to  me  to  stand  greatly  in  need  of  re- 
formation. The  hospital  is  better  conducted,  tolera- 
bly clean,  though  exhibiting  but  little  of  that  nicety 
and  taste,  which  are  constantly  kept  in  view  in  most 

30* 


362 


GENBVA. 


of  the  similar  institutions  in  England  and  America. 
The  number  of  patients  is  at  least  l.OO.  The  prison 
is  near  the  hospital,  and  is  very  badly  constructed. 
Judicious  efforts,  however,  are  used  to  classify  the 
prisoners.  Those  under  age  are  separated  from  the 
adults,  and  in  some  cases,  removed  from  the  prison 
to  the  hospital,  where  they  are  employed  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  house,  and,  according  to  their  deserts, 
allowed  the  use  of  the  yard,  and  even  the  liberty  of 
visiting,  occasionally,  in  the  day  time,  their  connex- 
ions in  the  town.  Some  attempts  have  been  made  to 
introduce  labour,  and  a  few  of  those  who  have  trades 
are  kept  at  work.  Very  few  persons  in  Geneva,  are 
confined  for  debt.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  there  was 
only  one.  The  magistrates  do  not  commit  debtors, 
except  in  particular  cases,  that  is  to  &ay,  for  debts 
contracted  in  a  particular  way.  There  were  between 
sixty  and  seventy  prisoners  in  the  gaol  at  the  time  of 
our  visit.  The  poor  of  Geneva  are  mostly  assisted  at 
their  own  houses.  Their  number  is  so  great,  that  one 
in  six  of  the  whole  population,  have  recently  received 
charity.  A  prize  was  offered  some  time  since,  by  the 
Economical  Society  of  this  tow^n,  for  the  best  essay  on 
the  means  of  obviating  the  evils  of  pauperism.  The 
committee  have  received  twenty-six  papers  from  dif- 
ferent places,  but  have  not  yet  had  time  to  read  them 
all.  Professor  P.,  who  is  one  of  the  committee,  on 
reading  the  report  of  the  New-York  Society  for  the 
prevention  of  Pauperism,  which  I  lent  him,  had  it 
immediately  translated. 

In  our  walks  we  stopped  at  the  School  d'Enseign- 
ment  Mutuel.  It  was  not  the  day  of  admission  to  vi- 
siters, but  we  apologised,  and  were  let  in.    It  is  a  new 


coppET.  363 

establishment ;  and  the  room  is  arranged  in  the  usual 
Lancasterian  manner.  The  number  of  scholars  is 
about  eighty,  and  the  system  pursued  appeared  to  be 
very  similar  to  that  of  the  schools  in  England. 

27th.  We  left  Geneva,  about  seven,  in  a  hired  voi- 
tur€,  for  Lausanne,  distant  twelve  leagues.  The  price 
of  the  carriage  was  twenty  francs  for  two  days,  and 
six  francs  to  the  coachman.  The  morning  was  delight- 
ful, and  the  road,  (as  good  as  possible,)  extending 
along  the  borders  of  the  lake,  afforded  the  most  agree- 
able  prospects  of  finely  cultivated  farms,  handsome 
country  seats,  and  frequent  villages,  with  the  high 
chain  of  Mount  Jura  on  the  left,  and  the  silvery  tops 
of  the  Alps,  beyond  the  lake,  on  our  right.  The  agri- 
culture of  Switzerland  is  certainly  better  than  that 
of  France,  and  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  that  of  En- 
gland. The  fine  shape  and  quality  of  the  cattle  are 
very  striking.  At  Coppet,  a  handsome  village  of  3 
or  4,000  inhabitants,  we  left  the  canton  of  Geneva, 
and  entered  that  of  Pays  de  Vaud.  This  village  is 
distinguished  as  the  residence  of  M.  Necker,  and  of 
his  celebrated  daughter,  Madame  de  Stael.  They 
are  both  buried  in  the  grounds  of  the  chateau ;  which 
is  at  present  occupied  by  the  Duke  de  Broglie,  who 
married  the  daughter  of  Madame  de  Stael.  While 
the  gens-d'armes  were  examining  our  passports,  we 
walked  to  the  chateau.  It  is  a  plain,  but  respectable 
looking  mansion,  but  we  had  not  time  to  ask  for  ad- 
mission. 

At  RoUe,  we  breakfasted  at  an  excellent  inn,  and 
walked  through  the  town,  which  is  very  pleasant,  and 
contains,  probably,  3000  inhabitants.  Between  Nyon 
and  RoUe  we  passed  the  chateau  Prangins,  which 


364  LAUSANNE. 

was  formely  occupied,  and  is  still  owned,  by  Joseph 
Bonaparte.  It  is  a  spacious  edifice,  and  finely  situated 
for  health  and  prospect.  Morses  is  a  larger  village 
than  those  already  mentioned,  and  like  all  the  towns 
and  villages  I  have  seen,  is  well  paved  with  stones. 
We  arrived  at  Lausanne,  at  half  past  three,  and  found 
decent  accommodations  at  the  Balances  d'or.  We 
walked,  wnile  our  diimer  was  preparing,  towards  the 
lake.  The  vine  is  cultivated  on  the  north  side  of  this 
fine  sheet  of  water,  the  hills  facing  the  south  afford  an 
excellent  soil  and  temperature  for  their  growth  and 
maturity.  Taking  a  guide,  I  walked  to  the  country 
residence  of  G****  de  V******,  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  town ;  delivered  a  letter  of  introduction, 
and  took  tea  with  him  and  his  lady,  and  enjoyed  a 
long  conversation  on  America,  Switzerland,  litera- 
ture, and  the  institutions  of  the  age.  He  is  an  elderly 
gentleman,  of  large  estate,  very  influential  at  Lau- 
sanne, and  has  spent  much  of  his  time  at  Paris.  He 
and  his  family  were  intimate  with  Dr.  Franklin,  Adams, 
Jefferson,  and  Morris,  as  our  ambassadors  at  France. 
His  wife  is  a  sensible  woman,  and  very  communica- 
tive. She  furnished  me  with  several  tracts,  published 
by  a  tract  society  in  Lausanne,  and  evidently  takes 
much  interest  in  the  efforts  that  are  now  on  foot,  for 
enlightening  and  Christianizing  the  lower  classes  of 
society.  I  left  them  at  a  late  hour,  and  after  several 
invitations  to  remain  all  night,  which  my  engagements 
would  not  admit  of 

This  being  the  first  day  of  the  week,  1  had  an  op- 
portunity of  comparing  the  habits  of  the  Swiss  with 
those  of  the  French,  relative  to  a  day  of  rest,  and 
Christian  worship.     I  need  only  say,  that  the  differ- 


365 

ence  is  greatly  in  favour  of  Switzerland,  and  of  Pro- 
testant principles. 

28th.  Being  introduced  to  Dr.  V******,  a  physician 
of  Lausanne,  by  a  note  from  G****  de  V******,  I 
found  him  to  be  a  very  sensible  and  learned  man.  He 
accompanied  my  companions  to  the  hospital,  while  I 
delivered  an  introduction  to  M.  A.  G******,  an  En- 
glish lady,  who  resides  in  the  family  of  Dr.  L*****,  a 
minister,  and  professor  of  theology  in  the  college  of 
this  town.  She  is  celebrated  in  this  place,  for  her  de- 
votion to  the  charitable  and  religious  associations  of 
this  canton.  The  establishment  of  the  tract  society 
of  Lausanne  is  ascribed  to  her,  and  she  is  the  most 
active  agent  of  the  Bible  cause.  We  had  half  an 
hour's  conversation  on  subjects  interesting  to  us  both. 
She  represented  the  state  of  religion  as  being  low  in 
Switzerland;  having  to  struggle,  on  the  one  hand, 
against  infidelity,  which,  unhappily,  has  too  much  in- 
fected many  of  the  higher  ranks, — and,  on  the  otheF, 
with  the  zealous  efforts  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  to 
maintain  its  ascendancy,  and  to  gain  new  proselytes. 
The  re-establishment  of  the  order  of  the  Jesuits,  by 
the  reigning  Pope,  has  been  done  with  this  view. 
"  We  know,"  said  she,  "  that  the  gates  of  hell  will  not 
prevail,  but  appearances  are  nevertheless  very  threat- 
ening." This  short  opportunity  gave  me  a  most  fa- 
vourable impression  of  the  qualifications,  both  of  head 
and  heart,  which  this  ladj  possesses,  to  do  good,  and 
her  disposition  to  exert  them. 

Not  being  able  to  join  my  companions,  and  Dr. 
V******,  in  their  visit  to  the  prison,  I  copy  the  state- 
ment of  my  friend  B.  D******,  relative  to  this  insti- 
tution.     "  Dr.  V******,  conducted  us  to  the  Maison 


366  LAUSANNE. 

de  Force.  All  the  confined  are  sentenced,  some  to 
20,  or  10,  or  5  periods  of  imprisonment,  but  all  for 
crimes  of  magnitude.  Murder  alone,  is  punished 
with  death,  in  the  Canton  de  Vaud.  The  prisoners 
were  all  actively  occupied  in  carding,  or  spinning,  or 
weaving,  or  plaitinaj  straw  for  hats,  slippers,  chair- 
bottoms  or  mats.  The  women,  wholly  separate,  are 
employed  in  nearly  the  same  way  under  female  in- 
spectors. Those  who  are  accustomed  to  any  me- 
chanic employment,  as  shoemaking,  chairmaking,  or 
other  occupations  that  may  be  followed  in  prison,  are 
employed  in  that  way.  If  not  industrious  they  are 
subject  to  punishment.  They  have  besides  a  certain 
proportion  of  the  proceeds  of  their  labour. 

"  Offenders  in  less  aggravated  cases,  are  secured 
in  separate  apartments,  and  are  generally  employed. 
There  is  no  idleness  in  the  prison. 

"  Besides  this  establishment,  in  the  same  building 
are  two  stories  appropriated  as  an  infirmary,  through 
which  the  Doctor  attended  us.  There  are  40  patients 
in  the  house.  The  dispensary  is  also  very  useful  to 
the  poor  of  Lausanne. 

"  The  Doctor  mentioned  to  us  an  establishment  in 
Lausanne,  for  the  discipline  and  reform  of  young 
convicts,  and  refractory  young  persons,  whose  friends 
commit  them  to  this  means  of  reclaiming  them.  They 
are  taught  and  employed,  and  restricted  to  regular 
habits." 

The  poor  are  supported  in  this  canton,  as  I  was 
informed  by  G****  de  V******,  by  a  fund,  arising  from 
property  which  has  long  been  in  the  possession  of  the 
government  of  the  canton  for  this  purpose.  But  no 
person  that  is  not  a  citizen,  i.  e.  who  has  not  the  right 


LAUSANNE.  367 

of  Bourgeoisie,  can  claim  the  protection  of  this  fund. 
In  cases  of  extraordinary  distress,  resort  is  had  to 
private  collections,  but  never  to  taxation.  The  right 
of  Bourgeoisie  may  be  purchased.  At  Lausanne  it 
is  worth  40  Louis  d'ors.  The  fund  does  not  increase 
much.  Dr.  V******,  took  us  to  the  School  d'Enseign- 
ment  Mutuel.  The  building  is  a  very  poor  one.  The 
school  is  in  an  upper  room,  and  the  access  to  it,  nar- 
row and  difficult.  The  number  of  scholars  was  about 
80.  Many  were  absent  on  account  of  the  measles. 
Provision  is  made  in  Switzerland  for  the  education 
of  every  child,  and  parents  are  obliged  to  send  their 
children  to  school.  The  teachers  are  paid  by  the 
government,  so  that  the  schools  are  gratis  to  the  pa- 
rents. We  went  into  one  of  these  schools.  It  con- 
tained about  30  scholars  of  the  poorer  families,  and 
appeared  to  be  badly  conducted.  I  suggested  to  Dr. 
V.  the  advantage  of  uniting  several  of  these  schools 
into  one,  and  adopting  the  improved  plans  of  tuition, 
paying  more  attention  at  the  same  time  to  neatness 
and  respectability  of  appearance.  He  said  that  some 
measures  had  already  been  taken  to  effect  this  object, 
which  he  considered  truly  desirable.  This  gentle- 
man informed  us,  that  in  several  parts  of  Switzerland, 
saving  banks  were  long  in  use;  prior,  as  I  understood, 
to  their  first  introduction  into  England.  They  are 
called  Caisses  d'Epargnment. 

Lausanne  contains  about  11,000  inhabitants.  It 
is  built  on  three  hills,  which  subjects  the  citzens, 
necessarily,  to  a  great  deal  of  ascent  and  descent. 
The  views  of  the  lake  and  mountains,  from  some 
parts  of  the  town  are  delightful.  I  here  took  leave 
of  my  former  companions,  who  intended  to  return  to 


368  VEVEY. 

Geneva  and  thence  proceed  to  Italy  ;  and  with  m^ 
English  friends  set  out  for  Vevey,  distant  four  leagues. 
The  road  passes  along  the  lake  and  on  the  edge  of  a 
mountain,  and  is  highly  romantic.  The  declivity  is 
very  steep  ;  but  so  well  adapted  are  the  soil  and  air 
to  the  perfection  of  grapes,  almost  every  foot  of 
ground  is  cultivated.  The  side  of  the  mountain  is 
converted  by  means  of  stone  walls,  erected  one  above 
another,  and  extending  in  horizontal  directions,  into 
terraces  or  platforms,  and  on  these  the  vines  are  rai- 
sed. At  St.  Saphorin,  a  considerable  village,  we 
obtained  some  grapes  of  a  woman,  fresh  from  the 
vineyard.  They  were  the  best  I  ever  tasted.  These 
grapes  arc  considered,  indeed,  as  inferior  to  none  in 
Europe ;  and  the  land  in  this  immediate  neighbour- 
hood sells  for  1200  francs  per  arpent,  so  highly  is  it 
esteemed  for  the  vine.  Vevey  is  a  pleasant  town 
on  the  lake,  containing  3,500  souls.  It  has  some 
very  decent  buildings,  and  a  handsome  market  house, 
better  than  any  that  1  ever  saw  in  America,  in  a  place 
of  equal  extent.  We  took  a  boat  and  a  batelier, 
and  went  out  on  the  lake.  The  scenery  was  'delight- 
ful. The  Alps  on  the  south,  in  some  places  covered 
with  snow;  villag^es  scattered  on  each  border;  the 
Castle  Chillon,  at  the  upper  extremity,  so  famous  in 
history,  and  in  the  poetry  of  Lord  Byron  ;  the  trans- 
parency of  the  water;  the  Rhone  pouring  its  flood 
into  the  lake  ;  the  mildness  of  the  evening;  the  va- 
pours, skirting  the  sides  of  the  mountains ; — these, 
and  other  accompaniments,  rendered  this  little  watery 
excursion  exceedingly  pleasant ;  and  nothing  was 
wanting  but  the  company  and  sympathetic  feelings  of 
j^y  ##*#**#**  Qj,  #*#»^  ^Q  complete  the  happiness  of  the 


JOURNEY  TO  BERNE.  369 

moment.  The  village  of  Montreux,  situate  in 
a  valley,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  appeared  in  sight. 
From  this  village,  a  number  of  Swiss  have  emigrated 
to  America;  and  have  established  themselves  in  the 
state  of  Ohio,  w^here  they  have  built  a  town,  which 
they  call  Vevey.  Our  boatman,  on  finding  where  \ 
was  from,  was  earnest  in  asking  questions  relative  to 
the  situation  and  probable  prospects  of  his  country- 
men. His  questions  evinced  a  sound  and  reflecting 
mind,  prudence,  and  sagacity.  Indeed,  all  that  I 
have  seen  of  the  habits  of  the  lower  orders  in  Swit- 
zerland, speaks  loudly  in  favour  of  the  extension  of 
knowledge,  and  of  moral  and  religious  principles. 

We  engaged  our  postillion,  whom  we  found  to  be 
a  very  obliging  and  good  tempered  man,  to  take  us 
to  Fribourg,  in  his  little  calash.  After  going  to 
bed,  unless  my  ears  deceived  me,  I  heard  the  hour  of 
the  night  announced  by  six  town  clocks,  one  after 
another.  The  Swiss  are  great  lovers  of  clock-work, 
bells,  and  music. 

■  29th.  The  road,  for  a  considerable  distance  from 
Vevey,  was  rapidly  ascending.  We  met  a  great 
number  of  peasants  going  to  market;  carrying,  for 
the  most  part,  their  productions,  either  on  their 
heads,  or  in  long  baskets  or  buckets  of  an  oval  form. 
with  flat  sides,  and  suspended  on  their  backs,  by  a 
strap  round  the  shoulders.  The  greater  number 
were  women;  and  certainly  of  a  more  interesting 
aspect,  more  handsome  and  graceful,  than  any  I  had 
ever  before  noticed  in  a  similar  condition  of  life.  The 
costume  of  the  females  varies  very  remarkably  in  the 
difl^erent  Cantons.  In  this  part  of  the  Pays  de  Vaud.. 
they  wear  straw  bonnets,  very  large,  and  with  a  high 

Vol.  I.  31 


370  JOURNEY  TO    BERNE. 

button  or  handle  on  the  centre  of  the  crown.  Their 
hair  is  suffered  to  grow  till  it  becomes  a  prodigious 
mass,  (or,  in  defect  of  quantity,  they  help  it  out  by  a 
cushion)  and  then  twisting  it  behind  into  a  large 
roll,  they  fasten  it,  in  the  shape  of  a  chair  cushion,  to 
the  back  part  of  the  head  ;  generally  interspersing  a 
quantity  of  powder.  Such  was  the  head  dress  of 
these  market  girls ;  and  which  they  doubtless  consi- 
dered as  in  no  respect  incompatible  with  the  heavy 
loads  which  they  carried  on  their  backs. 

We  breakfasted  at  Chatel  St.  Deny,  a  small  town, 
composed  of  Catholics.  The  church  was  decorated 
with  a  great  variety  of  ornaments,  outside  as  well  as 
within.  A  stone  basin  of  consecrated  water,  was 
placed  at  each  door ;  into  which  the  females,  as  they 
came  out,  dipt  their  fingers  and  crossed  themselves. 
One  of  them,  I  observed,  took  out  some  water  in  the 
palm  of  her  hand,  and  sprinkled  it  on  a  grave. 

The  style  of  farming  continues  to  be  good,  yet 
some  awkward  customs  prevail.  I  noticed  a  plough 
at  work,  drawn  by  two  horses  and  a  bull ;  the  latter 
animal  being  harnessed  as  a  leader,  and  guided  by  a 
girl^  by  means  of  a  rope  fastened  round  his  horns. 
Cows  are  frequently  harnessed,  and  made  to  work, 
like  oxen ;  and  I  know  not  why  they  should  not  be, 
where  women  are  to  be  the  drivers.  In  one  field,  we 
saw  a  cow  and  a  horse  drawing  together,  side  by 
side,  at  a  plough.  At  Bulle,  a  town  within  the  Can- 
ton of  Fribourg,  we  stopt  to  refresh,  and  to  look 
around  us,  for  an  hour  or  two.  This  place  was  almost 
wholly  destroyed  by  fire,  eleven  years  ago;  being, 
at  that  time,  built  chiefly  of  wood.  The  houses  are 
now  mostly  rebuilt    with    stone,  and  covered  with 


BULLE.  371 

tile.  A  young  man  of  respectable  appearance,  volun- 
tarily conducted  us  to  the  church  ;  a  new  building, 
with  a  pretty  high  steeple,  containing  five  bells.  The 
decorations  of  the  interior  were  costly,  but  more 
chaste  than  ordinary.  In  this  town  there  is  a  convent 
of  Capuchins,  containing  twelve  friars.  We  went 
to  see  them.  They  dress  very  coarsely,  and  wear 
their  beards  at  full  length.  We  met  one  of  them 
in  the  road,  on  our  approach  to  Bulle.  He  saluted 
us,  very  courteously,  and  on  asking  our  coachman  who 
he  was,  he  replied,  "  Monsieur,  c'est  un  Capuchin, 
lis  ont  un  convent  ici  a  Bulle."  What  do  they  do, 
said  I,  in  their  convent  ?  "  Qu'est-ce  qu'ils  font  ?  lis 
prient  le  bon  Dieu  pour  ceux  que  travaillent."  The 
friar  whom  we  met  in  the  convent,  was  a  mild  and 
good  looking  man.  He  told  us  there  were  but  twelve 
of  them,  and  signified  that  they  were  very  poor. 
Their  apartments  were,  indeed,  plainly  furnished ; 
and  it  was  evident  that  they  did  not  consider  water 
as  given  only  for  the  purpose  of  washing  away  out- 
ward spots.  Cleanliness  forms  no  part  of  the  religion 
of  these  professors  of  poverty  and  abstinence.  They 
have,  in  their  garden,  an  escargotoirc^  or  enclosure 
where  they  keep  and  feed  snails,  for  the  purpose  of 
food.     They  had  a  notable  crop  of  them. 

The  town  of  Gruyere  is  in  sight  from  Bulle.  It 
gives  a  name  to  the  cheese  made  in  this  part  of  Swit- 
zerland, which  has  a  high  reputation,  even  in  Paris. 
It  is  a  rich,  well  flavoured  cheese,  but  rather  hard- 
At  Fribourg,  we  obtained  good  accommodations  and 
an  excellent  supper,  at  the  Merchant's  Inn. 

30th.  Having  a  letter  for  Le  Pere  Girard,  whose  ge- 
nius and  philanthropy  have  qualified  him  to  efTect  the 


372  FRIBOURG. 

most  important  improvements,  in  the  education  of  the 
children  ofFribourg,  and  to  establish  a  school,  which 
has  become  famous  throughout  Switzerland,  I  hasten- 
ed this  morning  to  the  convent  where  he  resides,  and 
received  the  unwelcome  intelligence,  that  it  was  the 
time  of  vacation,  and  that  he  had  gone  into  the  coun- 
try, to  stay  some  days.  I  inquired  of  one  of  his  assist- 
ants, who  there  was,  that  conld  give  me  correct  infor- 
mation, relativp  to  the  system  pursued  in  the  institu- 
tion, over  which  the  Pere  Girard  presides,  and  he  re- 
ferred me  to  the  Chanoine  Fontaine,  as  an  enlighten- 
ed man,  and  a  friend  of  Pere  Girard.  Upon  waiting 
for  this  ecclesiastic,  at  his  house,  he  came  in  from  the 
morning  service,  dressed  in  his  priestly  habiliments, 
and  looked  at  me  with  some  surprise.  I  apologised 
for  coming  to  him  without  an  introduction,  and  ex- 
plained frankly  the  object  of  my  visit.  He  then,  very 
cordially,  offered  to  give  me  all  the  information  he 
could,  and  appointed  10  o'clock,  to  receive  me  and 
my  friends.  He  regretted  that  Pere  Girard  was  ab- 
sent, as  I  should  find  him,  he  said,  a  very  interesting 
man  in  conversation,  and  willing  to  communicate  any 
information,  relative  to  his  system. 

At  the  appointed  hour,  we  went  to  the  chanoine's, 
and  were  introduced  into  his  picture  room,  which 
contained  a  very  neat  collection  of  paintings,  one  of 
which,  he  said,  was  by  Rubens,  (the  descent  from  the 
cross,)  and  the  original  design  of  his  great  picture  at 
Antwerp.  He  explained  to  us,  loquaciously,  the  va- 
rious pictures  of  the  collection ;  and  then,  placing 
chairs  in  a  circle,  invited  us  to  sit  down,  and  com- 
menced an  eloquent  statement,  first  of  the  etymology 
of  the  word  Education,  implying  to  draw  out,  or  deve* 


FRIBOURG.  373 

lope,  and  not  to  increase,  or  to  superadd.  He  next 
adverted  to  the  common  error,  as  he  called  it,  of  sup- 
posing that  mathematics  can  have  much  tendency  to 
expand  and  mature  the  faculties  of  the  mind ;  and 
urged  the  superiority  of  language,  as  an  instrument  or 
means  of  effecting  this  important  end.  He  consider- 
ed it  of  high  importance,  that  plans  of  education 
should  tend  to  open  and  perfect  the  qualities  already 
existing  in  the  mind,  as  the  sun  swells  and  opens  the 
bud,  and  heightens  the  colours  and  fragrance  of  the 
rose.  He  informed  us  that  the  Pere  Girard's  views, 
and  his  own,  corresponded  on  this  subject;  that  the 
latter,  being  a  man  of  penetration,  and  acquainted 
with  human  nature,  and  possessing  a  spirit  of  great 
philanthropy,  had  proceeded,  step  by  step,  trusting 
only  to  experience,  in  bringing  the  school  to  its  pre- 
sent state  of  improvement.  Prior  to  the  commence- 
ment of  his  labours,  the  schools  of  Fribourg,  were  in  a 
state  of  great  depression,  without  system,  and  ineffi- 
cacious, with  respect  to  morals;  that  Pere  Girard's 
greatest  efforts  had  been,  to  make  the  scholars  tho- 
roughly acquainted  with  their  religious  duties,  to  ren- 
der them  sober  and  industrious ;  in  short,  to  inspire 
them  with  a  taste  and  a  love  for  all  that  belongs  to  an 
honourable  character,  in  the  respective  stations  which 
they  are  to  fill.  His  success,  in  this  respect,  the 
whole  town  was  ready  to  attest.  The  Lancasterian 
plan  of  instruction,  came  opportunely  to  his  aid  ;  but 
he  was  rather  a  "  Z>e//w^f,"  than  a  "  Lancasterien.^- 
The  principle  which  he  relies  most  upon,  as  an  ex- 
citement to  the  energies  of  the  boys,  is  emulation. 
This  principle,  properly  directed,  he  is  confident, 
does  not  produce  envy,  or  any  other  injurious  feeling. 

31  * 


374  FRIBOURG. 

So  anxious  are  the  boys,  in  his  school,  to  improvev 
they  are  known  often  to  rise  in  the  night  to  study ; 
and  so  hvely  and  interesting  to  them,  has  he  rendered 
the  exercises  of  the  school,  that  very  young  children 
are  fond  of  attending.  A  lady  of  distinction,  (the  ex- 
queen  of  Sweden,)  visiting  the  school,  observed  a  very 
young  child  in  one  of  the  classes.  "  Pourquoi  viens 
tu  ici,  mon  enfant  ?"  said  she,  to  the  tiny  scholar. 
"  Pour  m'amuser,"  \vas  the  answer.  Still  more  sur- 
prised, she  asked,  "^  Comment .''  est-ce-que  I'ecole 
t'amuse?"  "Oh,  Madame,"  said  he,  "nous  nous  amu- 
sons  ici  tous  les  jours."  But,  observed  our  learned  in- 
formant, as  there  is  always  a  struggle  between  light 
and  darkness,  so  it  was  hardly  to  be  expected,  that 
Fere  Girard's  success,  would  not  meet  with  opposition. 
His  school  has  acquired  so  much  celebrity,  that  not  a 
day  passes  without  visiters.  In  short,  it  was  to  have 
a  little  time  to  write,  that  he  has  left  the  town  for  a 
few  days.  A  public  examination  is  held  every  three 
months,  with  a  great  deal  of  form,  accompanied  with 
music,  and  a  distribution  of  prizes,  to  the  most  meri- 
torious scholars.  It  is  a  kind  of  public  spectacle, 
which  gratifies  the  town.  But  the  religious  principles 
of  the  Fere,  are  too  liberal  for  the  zealous  friends  of 
the  Romish  Church,  and  the  bell  of  alarm  has  been 
sounded,  with  notes  of  danger  to  the  true  faith.  A  divi- 
sion has  taken  place,  and,  in  the  present  government 
of  the  canton,  there  is  a  majority  of  the  disaffected. 
They  accordingly  determined,  by  a  decision  obtain- 
ed last  month,  to  reinstate  the  Jesuits  in  their  college, 
in  Fribourg;  doubtless  with  a  view  to  counteract  the 
influence  of  Fere  Girard ;  and  it  is  probable  that  they 
would  soon  proceed  to  place  his  school,  "  hors  de 


FRIBOURG.  375 

combat,'*  were  it  not  for  the  very  strong  popular  sup- 
port, which  it  receives.     The  government  of  this  can- 
ton is  patrician;    or,  in  other  words,  aristocratical. 
To  retain  their  power,  is  a  darling  object  with  the 
patricians  ;  and  they  are  so  well  aware  that  the  diffu- 
sion of  learning  and  morals  will  work  against  them, 
that  when  the  corner  stone  of  a  new  and  commodious 
house,  now  erecting  for  Pere  Girard's  school,  was 
laid  by  a  committee,  the  Avoyer,  or  chief  magistrate, 
happening  to  pass,  he  said  to  one  near  him,  ^  Voila 
le  tombeau  des  patricians."     The  only  excitement  to 
emulation,   which  Girard  uses,  is  an  advancement  in 
the  classes,  medals,  and  prize  books  at  the  examina- 
tions.    But  it  is  his  constant  effort  to  preserve  such  a 
tone  of  moral  feeling,  as  to  operateitself  as  a  stimulus 
to  honourable  effort,  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  prevent 
the  evil  consequences  of  emulation.    That  a  most  fa- 
vourable change  has  been  produced  in  themoral  ha- 
bits of  the  children  of  Fribourg.  is  generally  admitted. 

Our  conversation  with  the  Chanoine,  was  very  in- 
teresting to  us.  He  is  a  man  of  superior  intelligence, 
of  a  comely  figure,  and  pleasing  address.  We  parted 
at  one  o'clock,  and,  on  observing  to  him  that  we  should 
be  glad  to  see  his  cabinet,  (for  our  printed  guide  in- 
formed us  he  had  one,)  he  desired  us  to  call  again  at 
two ;  an  invitation  we  did  not  fail  to  comply  with. 

He  introduced  us  into  a  room,  completely  filled  with 
books,  minerals,  birds,  fish,  fossils,  and  other  objects  of 
natural  history,  arranged  with  great  taste  and  effect.  It 
was  a  very  learned  and  neat  little  museum.  His  spe- 
cimens of  quartz  crystals  are  uncommonly  beautiful. 
He  showed  us  a  manuscript  copy  of  the  Bible,  in  illu- 
minated letter,  of  very  fine  execution,  and  nearly  four 


376  FRIBOURG. 

hundred  years  old.  The  whole  collection  does  great 
credit  to  his  industry,  his  learning,  and  his  taste. 
His  clerical  dress,  which  he  retained  while  we  were 
with  him,  was  neat  and  plain.  We  left  him  with  sen- 
timents of  grateful  respect,  for  the  information  he 
afforded  us,  and  his  cordial  reception  of  strangers, 
without  a  formal  introduction 

We  next  visited  the  hospital  of  Fribourg.  It  is  a 
large  building,  occupying  the  four  sides  of  a  hollow 
square.  In  the  centre  of  the  square  is  the  chapel,  a 
round  building,  having  four  court  yards,  one  in  each 
angle.  We  were  conducted  through  the  apartments, 
by  the  economist,  or  steward,  (IVconome,)  w^ith  en- 
tire frankness  and  politeness,  though  we  had  nothing 
to  recommend  us  but  our  persons  and  tongues.  There 
was  nothing  extraordinary  in  this  institution.  The 
absence  of  neatness  and  order  was  but  too  observa- 
ble. We  were  shown  one  room  full  of  beds,  (coarse 
enough  to  be  sure)  destined  for  the  accommodation  of 
wayfaring  men  and  travellers,  who  are  not  well  pro- 
vided with  the  means  of  paying  for  their  fare.  They 
call  here,  and  sleep,  receive  a  bowl  of  soup  and  a 
piece  of  bread,  and  then  travel  on.  If  taken  sick,  they 
are  carefully  nursed  by  the  good  sisters,  who  are  the 
ministers  of  consolation  in  these  establishments.  The 
apartments  for  the  insane  were  in  miserable  condi- 
tion. A  damp  ground  floor,  cold  rooms,  a  bundle  of 
straw  for  a  bed,  and  such  a  destitution  of  every  thing 
cheering,  that  one  is  ready  to  suppose,  that,  in  these 
Catholic  hospitals,  the  insane  are  considered  as  per- 
sons possessed  of  evil  spirits,  and  fit  only  to  be  treated 
as  subjects  of  his  Satanic  majesty.  One  room  was  ap- 
propriated to  the  cretins^  or  those  who  have  some  bo- 


FRIBOURG.  377 

dily  or  mental  deformity,  arising  from  hereditary  op 
natural  causes.  These  cases  are  often,  though  not 
always,  accompanied  by  goitre.  In  the  general  hos- 
pital there  were  about  forty  patients,  beside  children, 
and  eight  insane. 

Our  young  guide  (gar§on  de  place)  next  introduced 
us  to  the  Jesuit's  convent ;  a  very  large  building,  with 
spacious  corridors,  and  numerous  rooms  for  the  mem- 
bers or  peres.  Thirty  of  these  are  to  be  reinstated 
in  this  their  ancient  habitation  ;  but  few  of  them  are 
yet  arrived.  When  prepared,  they  are  to  open  their 
schools,  and  provide  for  the  instruction  of  2U0  scholars. 
One  of  the  young  professors  showed  us  the  library. 
It  is  extensive,  and  contains  some  costly  and  valuable 
works ;  but  it  is,  of  course,  very  deficient  in  modern 
publications,  its  arrangement  is  classical,  and  con- 
venient. Wo  to  Pere  Girard,  when  these  thirty  cham- 
pions open  the  field  against  him  ! 

10th  month,  1st.  We  rose  by  candle  light,  and  pre- 
pared for  our  departure — my  companions  in  a  char-a- 
banc,  and  myself  in  the  diligence.  As  soon  as  the  day 
dawned,  we  saw  a  number  of  persons  resorting  to  the 
church,  to  say  mass.  By  far  the  greater  portion  were 
females. 

Fribourg  contains  about  6000  inhabitants.  It  is 
romantically  situated  on  the  Sarine,  which  empties 
into  the  Aar.  The  shore  of  the  river  is  a  bold  rock  of 
sand  stone,  on  which  the  houses  are  built,  at  a  great 
elevation  above  the  water.  The  town  is  remarkably 
well  watered,  there  being  no  less  than  twenty-eight 
public  fountains,  from  the  greater  number  of  which  a 
stream  of  pure  and  excellent  water  is  constantly  flow- 
ing.    In  crossing  a  public  square,  in  the  centre  of  the 


378  FRIBOURG BERNE. 

upper  town,  we  were  struck  by  the  appearance  of  a 
tree  of  extraordinary  size  and  venerable  aspect.  It  is 
a  linden  tree,  (tilia,)  and  was  planted,  if  the  record 
be  true,  in  commemoration  of  the  battle  of  Moret,  on 
the  20th  of  June,  1476.  It  begins  to  lose  its  vigour, 
and  to  exhibit  marks  of  decay.  The  cathedral  of  this 
town  is  a  very  ancient  building,  founded  in  1283.  The 
tower  is  considered  as  the  highest  in  Switzerland,  be- 
ing 356  feet,  French,  equal  to  379  English.  The 
French  language  is  spoken  in  the  higher  parts  of  the 
town,  and  the  German  in  the  lower,  while  in  the  cen- 
tral portions,  the  two  languages  are  confounded. 

The  country  between  Fribourg  and  Berne  (six 
leagues)  contains  much  wood,  consisting  mostly  of 
tall  and  straight  firs.  The  farms  were  in  excellent 
cultivation,  producing  grass  in  apparent  abundance. 

The  entrance  to  Berne  is  extremely  pleasant.  On 
pedestals,  one  on  each  side  of  the  gate  of  the  town,  are 
placed  enormous  statues  of  white  bears,  this  animal  be- 
ing the  symbolic  representative  of  the  town,  and  occu- 
pying the  centre  of  its  coat  of  arms.  The  peculiarity  of 
the  female  costume  of  this  canton  appeared  as  soon  as 
we  entered  its  limits.  It  consists  of  a  small  velvet  cap, 
which  fits  closely  to  the  back  part  of  the  head,  and  to 
which  is  attached  a  border  of  six  or  seven  inches  wide, 
made  of  horse  hair,  woven  into  a  kind  of  net  or  gauze, 
and  which  spreads  out  almost  perpendicularly  to  the 
head.  The  hair  is  plaited  in  two  long  queus,  which 
hang  down  to  the  waist,  interwoven  with  ribbands  at- 
tached to  the  back  part  of  the  cap.  This  dress  gives 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  body  an  appearance  alto- 
gether ludicrous  to  one  who  sees  it  for  the  first  time ; 
yet  it  is  the  general  style  of  ornamenting  the  head 


BERNE.  379 

throughout  the  canton,  from  children  of  nine  years  of 
age  to  married  women,  and  from  the  labourers  in  the 
field  to  the  lady  in  town.  The  arms  of  the  women  are 
generally  covered  with  white  linen  or  muslin  sleeves, 
very  wide,  and  gathered  round  the  arm  near  the  wrist. 
Among  the  lower  classes,  in  warm  weather,  the  sleeves 
of  their  chemises  are  made  to  answer  the  demands  of 
the  fashion.  The  women  are  busy  at  all  kinds  of  out 
door  work ;  breaking  hemp  with  an  instrument  exactly 
similar  to  that  used  with  us  for  flax;  driving  oxen; 
spreading  manure,  and  other  labours  of  an  equally 
masculine  character.  I  noticed  many  of  them  at  these 
employments,  neatly  dressed  in  their  bonnets  and 
white  sleeves.  We  found,  at  the  Faucon  Inn,  an  ex- 
cellent table  d'hote,  and  good  accommodations. 

We  called  in  the  afternoon  on  Dr.  Wyttenbach,  for 
whom  I  had  a  letter,  from  Professor  P.  of  Geneva. 
He  is  one  of  the  German  clergymen  of  the  place, 
seventy  years  of  age,  of  a  most  engaging  and  agree- 
able physiognomy,  and  a  venerable  figure.  He  met 
us,  equipped  in  his  ministerials,  and  with  an  address 
expressive  of  great  benevolence,  said  he  was  just  going 
to  church,  to  deliver  a  prayer,  which  would  occupy 
him  only  "  un  petit  quart  d'heure,"  and  if  we  would 
amuse  ourselves  till  that  time,  he  would  be  glad  to 
meet  us.  We  took  a  walk,  and  on  calling  again  were 
introduced  into  his  cabinet,  which  contained  a  variety 
of  objects  of  curiosity.  He  went  with  us  to  the  pub- 
lic library ;  containing  a  suite  of  rooms,  and  a  col- 
lection of  books,  superior,  in  point  of  taste  and  beauty, 
to  any  I  have  seen  on  the  continent.  He  afterwards 
introduced  us  to  the  rooms  of  natural  history  in  the 
same  building,  consisting  of  three   apartments,  and 


380  BERNE. 

containing  a  very  interesting  cabinet  of  the  minerals, 
birds,  and  quadrupeds,  of  Switzerland;  with  a  con- 
siderable numl)er  of  articles  from   other  countries, 
several  large  models  of  the  Swiss  mountains,  made 
by  a  young  Bernois,  a  beautilul  collection  of  birds' 
nests   and   eggs,   numerous  materials  from  the  South 
Sea   islands,    deposited    here    by   Weber,   who    ac- 
companied Captain  Cook   as  his  draughtsman,   and 
who  was  also  a  Bernois ;    these  and  other  things, 
were  arranged    in  handsome  style  in   the  different 
apartments.     Adjoining  these  rooms  is  a  botanic  gar- 
den; not  large,  but  well  provided  with  the  plants  of 
the  country,  especially  alpine.      In  the  garden  Was  a 
a  marble  bust  of  the  great  Haller,  who  was  a  native 
<of  this  town,  and   one  of  its  principal  magistrates. 
His  remains  are  deposited    in  this  garden.     It  was 
evident  to  us  that  this  institution  is  an  object  of  affec- 
tion with   Dr.  Wyttenbach,  as  being  in  some   sort  a 
child  of  his  own  raising,  and  in  the  nursing  of  which, 
he  spends  a  good  deal  of  his  time.     His  conversation 
was  full  of  pleasant  anecdote  and   humour,   and  his 
manners  were  kind  and  affable.     He  satisfied  us  that 
he  is  a  man  of  much  learning,  and  of  very  consider- 
able science. 

2d.  The  hospital  for  the  poor  is  a  handsome  build- 
ing, occupying  all  the  sides  of  a  large  square;  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  a  fine  garden,  with  a  fountain  play- 
ing in  the  middle  of  it.  The  apartments  in  each 
story,  open  into  a  wide  corridor,  which  extends  all 
around  the  central  area.  The  number  of  patients  is 
about  120,  but  the  buildings  also  afford  accommoda^ 
tion,  (i.  e.  a  night's  lodging  and  a  meal  or  two,)  to 
wayfaring  poor.     During  the  past  year,  as  many  as 


BERNE,  381 

10,000,  thus  found  here  a  temporary  shelter.  The 
poor  of  Switzerland  are  no  where  supported  by  tax- 
ation. In  the  Canton  of  Berne  there  are  permanent: 
funds  for  this  purpose,  kept  up  by  donations  and  lega- 
cies, but  none  have  a  real  demand  upon  this  charity, 
but  those  who  have  the  right  of  bourgeoisie,  which, 
unless  it  be  inherited,  it  is  very  difficult  to  obtain. 

My  companions  visited  likewise  the  general  hospi- 
tal, or  infirmary,  "  a  very  handsome  building,  situated 
near  the  descent  to  the  river  Aar.  The  entrance  is 
in  the  centre,  which  leads  to  a  long  gallery.  The 
room  where  the  faculty  prescribe  for  their  out  pa- 
tients, is  a  very  neat  one.  The  hospital  contains 
about  115  beds.  The  lobbies  are  airy,  wards  are 
only  arranged  on  one  side  of  the  hospital.  What  ap- 
pears singular  in  the  arrangement,  is,  that  two  wards 
are  occupied  by  men,  and  the  other  by  women,  com- 
municating by  a  door,  without  going  into  the  gallery. 
There  is  a  separate  room  for  children  with  tinea  ca- 
pitis, and  one  for  lying-in  women,  at  one  end  of  the 
building.  Every  thing  appeared  extremely  clean  and 
comfortable.  Patients  of  a  certain  character,  are  not 
admitted  here,  there  being  another  house  for  them, 
in  the  town.  The  bed  stocks  are  of  wood  ;  neat  cur- 
tains, sometimes  covering  several  beds,  near  together. 
Behind,  is  a  very  good  walk  for  the  patients,  looking 
towards  the  river." 

After  getting  our  passports  examined,  by  the  Aus» 
trian  minister,  at  Berne,  and  taking  our  dinners  at  the 
table  d'hote,  we  set  off  in  a  voiture  provided  by  our 
landlord,  for  Hofwyl,  two  leagues  from  Berne,  in  or- 
der to  visit  the  celebrated  establishment,  or  "  Institut 
d'education,"  of  Emmanuel  deFellenberg.     It  was  a 

Vol.  I.  32 


382  HOFWYL. 

rainy  day.  We  passed  through  a  pretty  large  wood, 
and  arrived  at  Hofwyl,  about  4  o'clock.  I  was  intro- 
duced to  Fellenberg,  by  three  letters ;  two  from  Paris, 
and  one  from  Geneva.  The  visiters  that  resort  here 
are  so  numerous,  and  the  attention  of  the  principal 
so  much  taken  up  with  them,  I  had  been  advised 
to  anticipate  some  difficulty  in  getting  access  to 
him.  On  presenting  myself  at  the  door,  I  was 
received  by  a  young  man,  who  appeared  to  be  his 
clerk,  and  who,  introducing  me  into  the  office,  re- 
quested me  to  write  my  name  and  residence  in  a  book 
which  he  gave  me.  He  then  announced  me  to  Fel- 
lenberg, who  politely  invited  me  into  the  parlour.  I 
produced  my  letters,  which  appeared  to  give  him 
much  satisfaction.  He  is  a  man  of  middle  age,  of  a 
mild  and  agreeable  countenance,  and  of  polite  and 
genteel  manners.  He  seated  me  on  a  sofa,  and  enter- 
ed upon  an  explanation  of  the  principles  of  his  estab- 
lishment, and  the  particular  views  of  education,  which 
had  induced  him  to  engage  in  it.  He  considers  so- 
ciety as  divisible  into  three  distinct  parts  ;  the  higher, 
(comprehending  the  noble  and  the  wealthy,)  the  mid- 
dling, and  the  poor.  The  greatest  defects  of  educa- 
tion, he  supposed  to  exist  in  the  two  extreme  classes. 
That,  these  distinctions  or  classes  among  men,  would 
always  prevail,  in  every  civilized  country,  he  believed 
to  be  incontrovertible ;  and,  of  course,  any  attempt  to 
break  down  the  distinction,  would  be  fruitless.  It  is, 
therefore,  of  consequence  that  they  should  be  each 
educated  in  a  manner  conformable  to  their  situations, 
but  both  in  such  a  way,  as  to  develope,  to  the  highest 
extent,  the  best  faculties  of  their  nature;  and,  while 
it  preserves  the  proper  relation  between   them,    it 


HOFWYL.  383 

should,  at  the  same  time,  encourage  the  feelings  of 
kindliness  and  sympathy  on  the  one  part,  and  of  re- 
spect and  love  on  the  other.  This,  he  thought,  could 
be  effected  upon  no  plan,  so  effectually,  as  by  bring- 
ing them  up  side  by  side,  so  that  they  should  have 
each  other  constantly  in  view,  vv^ithout  any  necessity 
whatever  of  mixing  or  associating.  The  rich,  by  ob- 
serving the  industry,  the  skill,  and  the  importance  of 
the  labouring  classes,  would  learn  to  entertain  just 
sentiments  respecting  them,  and  the  poor,  by  feeling 
and  experiencing  the  kindly  influence  of  the  rich, 
would  regard  them  as  benefactors. 

With  resppct  to  the  best  means  of  cultivating  the 
faculties,  which,  in  their  due  operation,  are  to  promote 
the  permanent  happiness  of  men,  he  considers  agri- 
culture, as  affording  opportunities  and  advantages  of 
the  greatest  importance,  and  next  to  this,  the  mechanic 
arts.  Agreeably  to  these  leading  views,  his  establish- 
ment consists  of  two  distinct  parts  ;  a  boarding  school 
of  the  sons  of  noblemen  and  gentlemen,  in  which  no 
pains  are  spared,  to  provide  them  with  teachers  in 
every  useful  science ;  and  of  a  house,  in  which  boys, 
taken  from  the  poorest  class,  are  clothed  and  fed  in  a 
very  plain,  coarse,  and  farmer  like  style,  and  who 
work  diligently  in  the  fields,  at  employments  adapted 
to  their  strength  and  skill.  During  two  hours  in  the 
day,  in  summer,  and  more  in  winter,  they  are  in- 
structed in  letters,  and  in  music.  They  are  likewise 
introduced  into  the  workshops,  and  taught  the  busi- 
ness of  a  blacksmith,  a  carpenter,  a  wheelwright,  a 
cabinet  maker,  a  turner,  a  shoemaker,  or  a  worker  in 
brass,  according  as  a  particular  talent  for  any  of  these, 
may  manifest  itself     The  produce  of  the  labour  of 


384 


HOFWYL. 


these  boys,  bears  no  inconsiderable  proportion  of  the 
expense  of  their  maintenance  and  instruction. 

After  this  brief  explanation  of  his  principles,  Fei- 
lenberg  introduced  my  companions  and  myself,  to 
Count  Louis  de  Villevielle,  a  gentleman  from  the 
south  of  France,  who,  reduced  by  the  revolution,  has 
attached  himself  to  Fellenberg,  and  appears  to  live 
with  him,  as  a  sort  of  companion.  He  attends  to 
strangers,  and  goes  with  them  through  the  grounds, 
shops,  &c.  of  the  establishment.  He  proved  to  be  a 
very  sensible,  well  informed  man,  and  altogether  dis- 
posed to  satisfy  our  inquiries.  He  conducted  us  to 
the  workshops.  In  one  of  them,  a  new  and  handsome 
fire  engine,  of  a  large  size,  had  just  been  completed 
in  a  style  which  would  do  credit  to  London  or  New- 
York.  In  these  shops,  all  the  instruments  of  agricul- 
ture are  made,  and  it  is  the  constant  aim  of  the  prin- 
cipal, to  improve  upon  the  form  and  structure  of  them, 
and  to  invent  others  which  experience  may  indicate 
the  use  of  As  they  make  more  than  the  farm  re- 
quires, the  surplus  is  sold  to  the  neighbours. 

In  the  evening  the  Count  conducted  us  to  the  farm- 
house, where  the  class  of  the  poor  boys  are  lodged, 
fed,  and  instructed.  We  found  them  at  supper,  on  a 
kind  of  hasty-pudding,  with  whey  and  boiled  pota- 
toes. They  breakfast  on  a  piece  of  bread  and  an 
apple,  or  something  as  simple,  and  dine  between 
eleven  and  twelve,  on  vegetable  food  alone.  Once  a 
week  only,  (on  first  day,)  they  have  meat  and  wine. 
They  are  thus  taught  a  lesson  of  simplicity,  with  re- 
spect to  their  manner  of  living.  The  furniture  of  the 
house  corresponds  with  the  dress  and  clothing  of  the 
boys.     After  supper  they  went  up  stairs  to  the  school- 


HOFWYL.  385 

room,  to  take  a  lesson  in  music.  Their  teacher 
(Vehrly)  is  a  young  man  of  very  extraordinary  qua- 
lifications. He  received  his  early  education  from  his 
father,  who  filled,  in  a  distinguished  manner,  the  of- 
fice of  schoolmaster  for  thirty  years.  He  began  at 
an  early  age  to  assist  his  parent  in  the  discharge  of 
his  office.  On  coming  to  reside  with  Fellenberg,  his 
views  were  further  expanded,  and  he  entered  with 
enthusiasm  into  the  concerns  of  the  establishment, 
and  willingly  undertook  the  formation  and  direction 
of  the  class  of  the  poor,  in  all  their  exercises,  agri- 
cultural, literary,  scientific,  and  moral.  He  lives  with 
them,  eats,  sleeps,  and  works  with  them,  dresses  as 
they  do,  and  makes  himself  their  friend  and  compa- 
nion, as  well  as  their  instructor.  He  is  eminently  fitted 
for  such  an  occupation  by  his  genius,  his  address,  his 
temper  and  disposition,  and  above  all  by  his  religious 
principles.  The  school  room  serves  also  for  a  shoe- 
makers' shop,  and  probably  accommodates,  occasion- 
ally, the  taylor  and  harness  maker.  The  boys  always 
take  a  lesson  of  one  hour,  between  supper  and  bed. 
This  lesson  is  frequently  confined  to  music.  They 
are  taught  it  by  principles,  but  they  use  no  instru- 
ment but  their  vocal  organs.  Fellenberg  lays  great 
stress  on  music,  as  a  means  of  bringing  the  mind  and 
heart  into  harmony  with  truth,  and  of  inspiring  the 
mild  and  benevolent  aflfections.  He  thinks  it  has 
been  very  beneficial  in  reclaiming  many  of  these  boys, 
from  the  vicious  habits  they  had  acquired  from  the 
low  and  exposed  lives  they  had  been  subject  to.  By 
teaching  them  to  sing  religious  songs,  together  with 
those  that  are  simply  patriotic,  he  says  their  attention 
is  diverted  from  those  vile  ballads  which  are  common 

32  * 


386 


HOFVVYL. 


among  low  bred  people ;  and  that  they  find,  in  thfs 
new  entertainment,  a  happy  substitute  for  the  coarse 
and  vulgar  expressions  to  which  they  were  addicted. 
The  boys  of  this  class  appeared  to  be  very  healthy 
and  contented.  They  are  taught  to  pay  the  utmost 
attention  to  cleanliness.  Their  clothing  in  summer, 
is  of  coarse  cotton,  and  in  winter,  of  woollen  cloth. 
They  go  barefooted,  except  when  they  work  in  the 
fields,  or  when  the  state  of  the  weather  requires  them 
to  wear  shoes  and  stockings.  They  are  always  with- 
out any  thing  on  their  heads.  Many  of  them,  as  might 
naturally  be  supposed,  entered  the  school  with  the 
seeds  of  scrophulous  disorders;  but  by  the  effect  of 
a  simple  and  wholesome  diet,  cleanlines,  and  labour, 
they  are  restored  to  health  with  scarcely  any  medi- 
cine. Some  of  them,  on  their  entrance,  were  feeble 
and  debilitated,  unable  to  endure  cold,  heat,  or  la- 
bour; but  when  once  they  have  become  accustomed 
to  the  regimen  of  the  school,  they  willingly  encoun- 
ter rain,  storms,  and  severe  cold,  whenever  their  work 
calls  them  abroad,  without  shrinking  from,  or  regard- 
ing the  exposure.  They  are  taught  to  mend  their 
own  clothes.  In  summer  they  rise  at  five,  and  in  win- 
ter at  six ;  and  after  having  dressed  themselves  and 
said  their  prayers,  they  receive  instruction  for  an 
hour.  They  then  breakfast,  after  which  they  go  to 
work  until  half  past  eleven.  They  have  then  half  an 
hour  for  dinner;  after  which  Vehrly  gives  them  a 
lesson  of  one  hour.  They  work  out  till  six,  and 
after  eating  their  supper,  receive  further  instruction, 
which  concludes  with  prayer,  and  they  are  generally 
in  bed  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock.  But  this  dis- 
tribution of  time  varies  according  to  the  seasons.    In 


HOFWYL.  387 

winter  five  or  six  hours  a  day  are  devoted  to  seden- 
tary instruction.  The  morning  of  the  first  day  of  the 
week,  is  always  devoted  to  exercises  of  piety,  and 
after  dinner  some  hours  are  given  to  instruction  in 
sacred  history.  But  their  lessons  are  by  no  means 
confined  to  the  school  room.  Vehrly  takes  pleasure 
in  questioning  them  on  subjects  of  natural  history, 
geography,  religion,  morals,  or  any  other  useful  topic, 
while  they  are  at  work  in  the  fields  or  shops;  and  it 
may  readily  be  conceived,  that  with  this  devotion  to 
the  improvement  of  his  pupils,  occasions  will  perpet- 
ually present  themselves,  of  conveying  instruction 
in  every  kind  of  knowledge,  calculated  to  expand 
the  minds  of  children,  and  to  cultivate  their  best 
affections. 

With  regard  to  the  most  efl[ective  means  of  elicit- 
mg  the  powers  of  the  mind,  and  of  conducting  the  lite- 
rary exercises  of  young  people,  great  credit  is  due  to 
Pestalozzi,  whose  veteran  labours,  as  one  of  the  most 
enlightened  teachers  of  the  age,  were  well  known  and 
acknowledged  long  before  the  commencement  of  the 
Hofwyl  Institution.  His  plans  of  communicating 
knowledge,  are  in  a  great  measure,  practised  by 
V^ehrly.  Much  pains  are  taken  to  impress  on  the 
minds  of  the  pupils,  a  deep  sense  of  the  importance 
of  time,  and  of  habits  of  industry;  and  from  the  re- 
ports that  have  been  published  by  commissioners  ap- 
pointed to  examine  the  establishments,  it  is  evident 
that  the  most  favourable  results  have  attended  these 
endeavours.  The  children  are  so  effectually  redeem- 
ed from  their  former  vicious  habits,  that,  in  their  most 
free  and  noisy  sports,  not  an  expression  is  heard,  of- 
fensive to  innocence  or  good  mannners.     After  work- 


388  HOFWYL. 

ing  10  hours  in  the  day.  they  give  themselves  up. 
when  their  teacher  permits,  to  the  liveliest  recrea- 
tion ;  but  a  word  from  Vehrly,  is  sufficient  to  induce 
them  to  leave  their  sport  and  to  engage  in  some  other 
exercise.  The  progress  which  they  make  in  know- 
ledge, is  truly  surprising,  when  it  is  considered  how 
adverse  their  former  habits  have  been  to  all  intel- 
lectual abstraction.  In  a  few  years,  or  even  in  less 
time,  they  learn  to  read,  write  and  calculate,  with  and 
without  the  use  of  pencil  or  pen ;  the  elements  of 
drawing  become  familiar  to  them  ;  and  they  acquire 
good  notions  of  geometry,  especially  in  its  relation  to 
field  surveying,  and  its  application  to  descriptive 
drawing.  Botany  and  mineralogy  constitute  part  of 
their  amusements.  They  become  well  acquainted 
with  all  the  plants  of  Hofwyl,  and  their  different  qual- 
ities, both  the  salutary  and  noxious.  Of  the  mine- 
rals also,  they  acquire  the  names  and  principal  uses, 
and  they  make  collections  of  all  that  is  valuable  and 
curious  in  minerals  and  vegetables.  Some  of  them 
are  very  attentive  to  the  improvement  of  their  little 
cabinets.  The  principal,  when  walking  with  them 
in  the  fields,  is  often  called  upon  to  decide  disputes 
relative  to  the  nature  of  stones  or  vegetables.  But 
the  most  adinirable  trait  in  the  character  of  this 
school,  is  the  tone  of  religious  feeling  which,  it  is  said, 
pervades  it.  This  could  not  be  accomplished,  were 
not  Fellenbergand  Vehrly,  both  strongly  imbued  with 
a  sense  of  religious  obligation,  and  unremittingly 
attentive  to  awaken  those  sentiments  in  the  minds  of 
the  pupils.  They  have  learned  by  heart  more  than  50 
hymns,  and  many  portions  of  sacred  history.  They  are 
regularly  attentive  to  one  practice,  which  is  a  pleas- 


HOPWYL.  389 

jng  source  of  instruction,  and  at  the  same  time  serves 
to  demonstrate  the  progress  they  have  made  in  use- 
ful acquirements.  At  the  close  of  every  week,  they 
write,  in  a  book  provided  for  the  purpose,  an  account 
of  whatever  has  impressed  their  minds  with  the  great- 
est force.  It  may  be  either  a  moral  reflection,  a  descrip- 
tion of  a  plant,  or  an  instrument,  an  account  of  a  con- 
versation, or  an  extract  from  some  thing  they  have 
read.  We  saw  some  of  these  journals ;  they  were 
mostly  in  the  German  language,  and  the  greater  num- 
ber were  written  with  remarkable  neatness.  Some 
of  them  contained  drawings  that  evinced  no  inconsi- 
derable skill,  and  an  eye  accustomed  to  accuracy  oi 
observation. 

It  will  readily  be  conceived  that  a  plan  of  instruc- 
tion so  admirable,  and  constantly  directed  to  the  best 
and  purest  affections  of  the  mind  and  heart,  can 
scarcely  fail  to  redeem  from  indolence  and  vice,  those 
whose  habits  have  been  the  most  degraded.  And  it 
has  accordingly  happened,  that  notwithstanding  the 
boys  under  Vehrly's  charge  have  been  taken  from  the 
very  lowest  ranks,  some  of  them  the  children  of  beg- 
gars, but  one  instance  has  occurred,  of  such  invete- 
rate vice,  as  to  render  it  eventually  necessary  to  aban- 
don the  culprit  to  his  corrupt  propensities,  and  ex- 
pel him  from  the  school. 

In  the  religious  exercises,  which  take  place  on  the 
first  day  of  the  week,  the  boys  of  the  poor  school  assem- 
ble with  the  superior  class,  but  on  no  other  occasion. 

After  seeing  the  evening  exercise  of  these  boys,  we 
retired  to  an  inn,  at  the  village  of  Buchsee,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  Hofwyl.      This  was  only  a  vil- 


390  HOFVVVL. 

lage  iiiFi,  but  we  found  in  it  good  beds,  and  good  at- 
tention. 

3d.  After  breakfast,  we  repaired  again  to  Hofwyl, 
and  were  conducted  by  the  Count,  lirst,  to  the  place 
where  the  agricultural  instruments  are  deposited. 
The  drill,  or  machine  for  sowing  seeds  of  various 
kinds,  by  which  one  half  the  seed  is  said  to  be  saved, 
has  been  improved  by  Fellenberg.  The  exterminator^ 
for  destroying  weeds,  and  the  scarificator^  for  paring 
the  soil,  were  among  the  things  in  this  collection :  but 
I  was  surprised,  when  Fellenberg,  in  reply  to  my 
questions,  informed  me,  that  no  attempts  had  been 
made  to  improve  the  common  plough.  That  which 
appears  to  be  in  universal  practice  in  Switzerland,  is 
probably  the  same  used  by  the  great  grandfathers  of 
the  present  race,  and  is  much  more  awkward  and 
clumsy  than  the  English  plough.  The  mould-board 
is  only  a  flat  plank  placed  at  an  angle  with  the  beam. 
This  plank  is  often  changed  to  the  other  side  of  the 
plough,  at  each  end  of  the  field,  so  as  to  throw  the  fur- 
row always  in  one  direction,  but  for  what  reason  it  is 
difficult  to  imagine,  except,  on  the  side  of  a  steep  hill, 
there  may  be  some  advantage  in  casting  the  furrows 
downward.  But,  as  these  ploughs  are  constructed,  I 
am  persuaded,  it  requires  nearly  or  quite  double  the 
team,  to  perform  a  given  quantity  of  labour,  as  in  Ame- 
rica. I  noticed  in  the  yard,  a  new  sleigh,  designed  to 
hold  about  eighty  persons,  and  to  be  drawn  by  four- 
teen horses.  This  is  intended  for  the  amusement  of  the 
higher  class  of  boys.  The  snow  is  often  very  deep  in 
this  part  of  Switzerland,  and  continues  some  months. 
The  stables  exhibited  a  collection  of  the  largest  cows 


HOFWYL.  391 

I  ever  saw.  They  are  kept  to  the  stalls  all  the  year, 
and  are  fed  with  grass  in  the  summer.  The  greatest 
care  is  taken  to  economise  the  manure.  The  yard, 
which  receives  the  litter,  is  made  concave,  and  has  a 
well  in  its  centre,  whence  water  is  thrown  over  it  in 
dry  weather.  A  large  reservoir,  lined  with  stone,  re- 
ceives the  wash  of  the  stables,  which  is  from  lime  to 
time,  thrown  over  the  contents  of  the  yard.  The  cows 
were  mostly  fat  enough  for  good  beef  They  seldom 
give  more  than  twenty-four  bottles  in  a  day,  and,  upon 
an  average,  not  more  than  sixteen  bottles,  or  about 
twelve  quarts.  We  were  next  conducted  round  part 
of  the  farm.  ,  It  consists,  in  the  whole,  of  2 10  acres, 
and  certainly  affords  a  neat  specimen  of  agricultural 
skill.  We  were  shown  the  garden  and  play  ground  of 
the  upper  school,  and  the  fixtures  for  their  gymnastic 
exercises,  &c.  Among  the  latter,  throwing  the  lance  is 
practised.  They  aim,  from  a  given  distance,  at  a  post, 
the  top  of  which  is  loosoly  attached  by  hinges  on  the 
remote  side,  and  the  lancers  endeavour  to  strike  with 
sufficient  force  to  overturn  it.  Each  of  them  has  a  por- 
tion of  garden  ground  assigned  to  him,  which  he  cul- 
.tivates  as  his  own ;  while  a  more  extensive  enclosure 
belongs  to  them  in  common,  in  the  labour  of  which 
ihey  are  governed  by  rules,  adopted  by  themselves. 
They  have  their  choice  also  of  the  mechanic  arts,  fa- 
cilitated by  the  numerous  workshops  on  the  premises. 
Although  the  building,  in  which  Fellenberg  accom- 
modates his  superior  class,  is  large,  he  is  erecting  two 
others.  One  of  these  is  for  the  dwelling  house  and 
school-rooms  of  the  students.  It  is  about  100  feet  long. 
and  60  wide,  and  will  contain  wine  cellars,  a  chapel, 
ample  dormitories,  refectory,  &c.  for  more  pupils  than 


392  HOFVVYL. 

his  present  number.  The  other  building  is  for  a  ri* 
ding-school  below,  and  dancing  and  exercise  rooms 
above.  This  building,  which  is  also  large,  is  con- 
structed like  many  (if  not  most)  of  the  country  houses 
of  Switzerland,  by  erecting  an  open  and  strong  frame 
of  wood,  and  filling  the  interstices  with  a  mixture  of 
clay  and  straw.  This  is  moulded  by  the  hand,  into 
oblong  portions,  which  are  laid  upon  sticks,  and  are 
forced  down  in  grooves  made  in  the  posts  of  the  frame^ 
The  mortar  is  wrapped  round  the  stick,  so  as  to  cover 
it;  another  is  then  forced  down,  &c.  This  wall  is  af- 
terwards plaistered  and  white-washed. 

The  Hofvvyl  establishment,  as  I  have  before  re- 
marked, consists  of  two  classes,  the  rich  and  the  poor. 

The  class  of  the  rich  contains  at  present  about  80. 
Twenty  of  these,  consisting  of  children  under  ten 
years  of  age,  are  placed  under  the  care  of  a  re- 
spectable gentleman  and  his  wife,  in  a  house  belong- 
ing to  Fellenberg,  situated  about  a  mile  from  his  own 
residence.  A  teacher  or  two  have  the  charge  of 
their  instruction,  both  in  and  out  of  the  house.  From 
this  house  and  ground  we  had  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  eastern  Alps.  The  elevation  of  some  of  the  sum- 
mits in  this  range,  is  but  little  less  than  that  of  Mount 
Blanc;  and  the  extent  of  the  chain  covered  with 
snow,  was  much  greater  than  any  I  had  seen.  The  air 
was  very  clear,  exhibiting  the  rich  white  of  this  stu'- 
pendous  ridge  of  mountains,  in  the  finest  style  ima* 
ginable. 

The  other  sixty,  constituting  the  most  prominent 
part  of  the  Hofwyl  institution,  are  provided  with 
more  than  twenty  teachers,  or  professors.  Among 
the  pupils,  are  several  princes,  and  the  sons  of  minis- 


HOFWYL.  393 

ters  of  state,  &c.  The  price  of  board  and  tuition, 
varies  from  100  to  £300  sterling  per  annum.  We 
were  not  admitted  to  the  interior  of  the  building  oc- 
cupied by  these  students.  We  saw  none  of  their 
performances,  of  their  schools,  or  their  exercises,  ex- 
cept a  little  riding  on  horseback,  on  saddles  with- 
out stirrups  ;  the  horses  trotting  in  a  circle,  guided 
by  a  rope  held  by  a  boy  in  the  centre ;  the  professor 
standing,  likewise,  in  the  middle,  and  directing  the 
rider  how  to  sit.  In  this  exclusion  from  the  interior 
of  his  school,  we  were  treated,  by  Fellenberg,  like 
most,  if  not  all,  of  his  visiters.  None  are  invited  to 
the  exercises,  and  none,  of  course,  would  go  in  with- 
out invitation.  Either  the  trouble  and  distraction^ 
which  the  general  admission  of  his  numerous  visiters 
would  occasion,  oblige  him  to  adopt  this  course;  or, 
there  is  not,  in  the  classification  and  operations  of  his 
school,  enough  of  refinement,  talent,  and  perfection, 
to  support  the  name,  and  to  correspond  with  the  cha- 
racter of  eminence  he  has  succeeded  in  obtaining. 
My  own  impression  is,  that  both  these  causes  operate 
in  producing  his  decision.  The  daily,  and  almost 
hourly,  attendance  and  interference  of  company, 
would  certainly  be  extremely  troublesome.  He  does 
not  profess,  either,  to  have  adopted  any  plan  by 
which  his  pupils  are  rapidly  brought  forward.  His 
system,  as  he  explained  it  to  me,  is  even  opposed  to 
a  hasty  progress.  He  wishes  to  allow  his  plants  to 
arrive  at  full  and  vigorous  growth,  by  a  slow,  cautious, 
and  well  directed  training,  and  by  carefully  removing 
from  the  soil  every  obstruction ;  rather  than  to  urge 
them  by  a  hot-bed  culture.  He  justly  thinks,  that  all 
he  can  do,  is  to  lay  a  solid  foundation.  That  educa- 
Vol.  I.  33 


394  HOFWYL. 

(ion  is,  or  ought  to  be,  the  business  of  a  whole  life. 
Moral  and  religious  principles,  he  regards  as  the  ba- 
sis of  all  that  is  excellent  in  man ;  and  accordingly, 
great  pains  are  taken  to  inculcate  the  doctrines  of 
Christianity,  agreeably  to  the  profession  of  the  pa- 
rents and  guardians  of  the  pupils.  The  Catholic 
scholars  have  a  clergyman  or  professor  of  their  own 
sect,  and  the  Emperor  Alexander  has  provided  for 
the  instruction  of  the  Russian  pupils,  in  the  principles 
of  the  Greek  Church.  Fellenberg's  character,  as  a 
man  of  principle  and  piety,  is,  I  believe,  decidedly  in 
his  favour.  He  has  the  manners  of  a  gentleman, 
and  the  whole  exterior  of  his  establishment,  bears  the 
marks  of  considerable  taste  and  judgment.  Beside 
the  three  schools  already  mentioned,  he  has  another 
about  half  a  mile  from  Hofwyl,  where  young  men  at- 
tend, during  the  winter,  to  courses  of  instruction  in 
those  subjects  which  relate  to  agriculture.  He  lec- 
tures himself,  I  believe,  on  the  practical  operations 
of  farming,  ft  is  here  too  that  the  professor  of  che- 
mistry has  his  laboratory  and  lecture  room.  We  were 
introduced  to  him  (Dr.  Strobe,)  and  judged  him  to  be 
a  good  chemist.  He  is  also  the  physician  of  the  esta- 
blishment. His  laboratory  indicates  an  attachment 
to  his  profession  and  tolerable  judgment  in  its  prac- 
tical details.  The  philosophical  apparatus  is,  how- 
ever, very  unworthy  of  the  institution,  and  ought  not, 
I  should  hope,  to  be  taken  as  a  sample  of  the  whole 
interior.  In  taking  leave  of  Fellenberg,  he  express- 
ed much  regret  at  the  shortness  of  our  stay,  and  the 
consequent  want  of  more  opportunities  of  conversa- 
tion. I  cannot  but  regard  him  as  a  man  of  more 
than  mediocrity  of  talent:  a  man  of  penetration  and 


HOFWYL.  395 

judgment ;  but  ratlier  prone,  perhaps,  like  other  Ger- 
man philosophers,  to  theorise  on  human  nature,  and 
to  fancy  that  new  and  important  discoveries  are  yet 
to  be  made  in  the  principles  of  human  action. 

From  the  information  we  received  from  others,  as 
well  as  from  the  statements  of  Fellenberg  himself, 
it  is  evident  that  his  plans  have  ever  been  regarded 
with  jealousy  by  a  great  number  of  his  most  influen- 
tial neighbours  and  fellow  countrymen.  He  was  at 
first  condemned  as  a  visionary :  but  when  he  had  fair- 
ly demonstrated  the  practicability  and  utility  of  his 
schemes  for  the  improvement  of  education,  they  ac- 
cused him  of  sinister  views  ;  and  alleged  against  him, 
that  his  motives  were  mercenary,  having  an  eye  chief- 
ly to  the  profits  of  the  establishment.  This  narrow- 
minded  spirit  has  not  been  content  with  mere  expres- 
sions of  disapprobation  and  condemnation.  The 
government  of  the  canton  has  gone  so  far  as  to  lay 
positive  obstructions  in  his  way,  and  to  threaten  him 
with  the  weight  of  their  aristocratical  authority.  He 
had  a  few  years  ago  devised  a  plan  fordifTusing  some 
of  the  benefits  of  his  experience  in  the  government 
of  youth,  throughout  the  canton.  He  invited  the 
teachers  of  schools  to  repair  to  Hofwyl  during  the 
period  of  their  vacation,  and  there  to  avail  themselves 
of  such  information,  as  the  institution  would  afford, 
and  their  time  would  admit  of  This  offer  was  glad- 
ly accepted ;  but  the  next  season  the  teachers  of 
the  canton  were  most  arbitrarily  interdicted  by  the 
government  from  resorting  to  Hofwyl.  Fellenberg, 
thus  very  ungenerously  thwarted  in  his  wishes  to  do 
good,  opened  his  establishment  for  the  benefit  of  other 
cantons,  and  has  thus  had  it  in  his  power  to  extend 


396  HOFWYL. 

still  more  widely  the  advantages  of  his  system*  His 
great  desire  is  to  introduce  a  taste  for  agricultural 
pursuits,  connected  with  an  amelioration  of  the  indi- 
gent classes.f  He  is  himself  of  a  patrician  family; 
and  his  haughty  compeers  do  not  relish  what  they 
foolishly  consider  as  a  diminution  of  the  dignity  of 
their  order,  hy  his  resorting  to  the  task  of  an  instruct- 
or. But  though  the  Bernese  government  is  thus  ac- 
tuated by  ignoble  sentiments  towards  the  HoAvyl  es- 
tablishment, the  most  distinguished  and  enlightened 
characters  in  other  parts  of  Switzerland,  are  deci- 
dedly in  its  favour.  At  Geneva  it  is  considered  as  an 
honour  to  Switzerland  ;  and  if  we  may  judge  from 
the  patronage  that  its  founder  has  received  from 
other  countries;  from  England,  Scotland,  Germany, 
Russia,  &;c.  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  Fellenberg 
system  of  instruction,  is  highly  approved  by  the  most 
competent  judges  of  real  merit  in  Europe.J 

*  This  part  of  the  institution,  which  he  called  the  Jformal  School,  has 
been  entirely  prohibited  by  the  cantonal  government. 

f  His  farm  is  intended  to  serve  as  a  model  of  the  best  course  of  cultiva- 
tion and  management.  About  one  twentieth  of  it  is  devoted  to  experimen- 
tal inquiries,  and  the  results  are  gradually  adopted  in  his  practice. 

I  By  the  latest  information  in  my  possession,  the  superior  class  consisted 
of  nearly  100  pupils,  taught  by  upwards  of  thirty  professors  !  The  course 
of  instruction  embraces  the  Greek,  Latin,  German  and  French  languages 
and  literature  ;  History,  civil  and  sacred  ;  Geography  ;  Mathematics,  pure 
and  mixed  ;  natural  and  mental  philosophy ;  chemistry  ;  music  ;  drawing  ; 
gymnastics,  including  riding,  swimming,  dancing,  &c. ;  natural  history  in 
all  its  branches  ;  and  religious  instruction. 

The  pupils  rise  at  six  in  winter  and  five  in  summer  ;  they  breakfast  at 
seven,  eat  a  little  at  ten,  dine  at  noon,  take  a  luncheon  at  five,  and  sup  at 
eight.  Five  hours  are  appropriated  to  study  in  the  forenoon  and  four  hours 
in  the  afternoon  ;  the  rest  of  the  day  being  devoted  to  their  gymnastic,  agri- 
cultural, and  mechanical  exercises.  This  arrangement  however  is  not  abso- 
lutely restrictive,  but  is  made  to  conform  to  the  varying  circumstances  oi 


HOFWYL.  397 

Without  attempting  to  justify  all  the  views  which 
have  influenced  the  founder  of  the  Hofwyl  institu- 
tion, either  as  it  regards  its  general  arrangement  of 
distinct  and  independent  classes,  or  its  minute  prac- 
tical details,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  from 
all  that  I  have  read,  and  all  that  I  have  seen  of  this 
establishment,  it  does  appear  to  me  to  be  conducted 
upon  principles  which  are  calculated  to  afford  the 
very  best  kind  of  education  which  it   is   possible  to 

the  establishment,  the  health  and  genius  of  the  pupils,  &c.  The  greatest 
pains  are  taken  to  cultivate  their  moral  and  religious  sensibilities.  The  lan- 
guage chiefly  spoken  is  the  German.  The  internal  or  civil  government,  (if 
it  may  be  so  called,)  of  the  school,  is  regulated  by  a  constitution  and  by- 
laws, administered  by  the  pupils  themselves,  and  for  which  object  they  have 
their  legislative  and  executive  officers,  under  the  supervision  of  the  princi- 
pal. The  motives  of  emulation,  as  theyare  ordinarily  excited  byrewards,  me- 
dals, honours,  &c.  or  by  a  division  into  classes  in  the  numerical  order  of  first, 
second,  third,  &c.  form  no  part  of  the  Fellenberg  system.  His  aim  is  to 
address  his  instructions  to  the  more  reasonable  and  noble  principles  of  their 
nature,  and  by  the  number  of  his  professors,  (for  he  has  had  as  many  as  thir- 
ty-five with  less  than  100  pupils,)  to  unite  all  the  advsintages  of  private,  with 
those  of  public  instruction. 

It  appears  from  a  recent  and  very  interesting  exposition  of  the  Hofwyl 
institution,  by  the  Count  de  Villeveille,  that  the  principal  of  that  establish- 
ment began  his  enterprise  with  a  fortune  of  400,000  francs,  (nearly  ^80,000,) 
and  that  by  a  prudent  economy  in  his  expenditures  and  management,  he  has, 
in  the  course  of  twenty-two  years,  more  than  doubled  his  original  capital, 
notwithstanding  the  constant  maintenance  of  40  poor  boys,  and  his  liberal 
provision  for  those  of  the  higher  class. 

Such  is  the  attraction  which  Hofwyl  now  presents,  to  the  enhghtened  cu- 
riosity of  travellers  in  Switzerland,  the  number  which  daily  visit  the  insti- 
tution during  the  travelling  season,  cannot  be  estimated  at  less  than  12  or  15. 
Of  this  number,  it  is  scarcely  possible  that  De  Fellenberg,  intensely  occu- 
pied as  he  must  be  with  his  extensive  concerns,  can  have  time  to  see  and 
converse  with  more  than  one.  It  is  in  consequence  of  the  concourse  of 
visiters,  that  so  few  are  admitted  to  the  interior  of  the  school ;  for  it  would 
be  an  injustice  to  the  parents,  if,  instead  of  devoting  himself  to  the  interests 
of  their  children,  he  should  offer  them  as  a  daily  and  almost  hourly  specta- 
cle to  visiters. 

33  * 


398  HOFWYL. 

confer  upon  a  young  man,  whatever  may  be  the  situ- 
ation which  he  is  to  fill  in  active  life.  As  it  regardb 
the  poor,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  they  could  be 
brought  up  in  a  way  which  would  better  prepare 
them  for  filling  the  station  of  industrious,  skilful  and 
intelligent  labourers.  With  respect  to  the  rich,  while 
they  are  cheerfully  pursuing  an  excellent  course 
of  literary  and  scientific  instruction,  they  are  eflfect- 
ually  preserved,  by  the  principles  of  this  institution, 
from  those  idle  and  vicious  habits  which  so  common- 
ly result  from  the  vacant  time  of  colleges  and  univer- 
sities. By  turning  their  attention  to  agriculture  and 
the  mechanic  arts ;  by  inspiring  them  with  a  love  of 
labour,  or  at  least  of  a  useful  application  of  their 
strength  and  muscular  activities  ;  by  exercising  their 
ingenuity  in  the  use  of  tools  and  instruments ;  by  famil- 
iarizing them  to  an  attentive  observance  of  nature  in 
her  diflferent  kingdoms,  and  in  the  revolution  of  sea^ 
sons, — a  foundation  is  laid  for  those  more  expanded 
feelings  and  generous  sympathies,  which  bind  the  up- 
per to  the  lower  classes  of  the  community,  and  event- 
ually tend  to  exalt  the  condition  of  humanity. 

But  the  greatest  recommendation  of  the  Pestaloz- 
zian  and  Fellenberg  plan  of  education,  is  the  moral 
charm  which  is  diffused  throughout  all  its  operations, 
[t  cannot  but  happen,  (all  other  things  being  equal,) 
that  pupils  thus  educated,  will  become  not  only  more 
intelligent  men  and  better  philosophers,  but  also  more 
moral  and  dignified  members  of  society.  I  cannot 
but  cherish  the  hope,  that  this  scheme  of  education, 
of  combining  agricultural  and  mechanical,  with  lite- 
rary and  scientific  instruction,  will  be  speedily  and 
extensively  adopted  in  the  United  States.    I  am  aware 


HOFWYL.  399 

that  it  would  have  to  contend  with  serious  difficulties. 
The  prejudices  and  habits  of  the  people  would  be 
against  it.  The  high  notions  of  independence,  so 
earlj  imbibed  and  strongly  cherished  among  us,  would 
submit,  in  all  probability,  with  an  ill  grace  to  the  al- 
ternation of  labour  with  the  exercises  of  a  school- 
The  pulse  of  the  nation  has  already  been  felt  on 
this  subject  by  a  benevolent  individual,  (our  friend 
M******,)  who,  having  visited  the  institutions  of  Pes- 
talozzi  and  Fellenberg,  was  resolved,  if  possible,  to 
establish  one  or  more  schools  in  the  United  States, 
on  a  similar  plan.  But  after  travelling  from  New- 
York  to  lake  Erie,  he  could  find  no  one  who  would 
agree  to  second  his  views ;  none  who  did  not  consi- 
der the  plan,  as  either  unnecessary  or  impractica- 
ble. Thus  discouraged  he  relinquished  the  project, 
though  few  persons  in  the  world  would  have  sup- 
ported it  by  greater  pecuniary  sacrifices.  Still  I 
cannot  but  believe,  that,  if  it  were  once  introduced 
and  brought  fairly  into  operation,  its  superiority  would 
be  immediately  manifest,  and  that  the  first  successful 
example  would  be  rapidly  followed  in  different  parts 
of  the  country.  I  have  but  little  doubt,  that  on  a 
good  productive  farm,  of  250  or  300  acres,  provided 
with  suitable  buildings,  (which  need  not  be  very 
costly,)  and  well  stocked,  a  school  of  twenty-five  or 
thirty  boys,  conducted  on  the  plan  of  Fellen berg's 
poor  school,  would  maintain  itself,  and  leave  a  gain 
in  favour  of  the  proprietor.  A  few  such  schools 
would  soon  impart,  to  a  large  and  populous  district  of 
country,  a  moral  tone,  of  incalculable  importance  to 
its  highest  interests  and  welfare.  I  know  of  no  means 
by  which  a  benevolent  and  wealthy  individual  could 


400  HOFWYL. 

do  so  much  good,  at  the  same  expense,  as  by  erecting 
one  or  more  such  institutions,  in  arjy  of  our  middle 
states.  If  white  children  could  not  at  once  be  ob- 
tained to  begin  with,  I  would  take  the  children  of 
blacks.  These  could  be  procured  of  a  suitable  age, 
and  taken  on  indentures  to  remain  a  certain  number 
of  years,  or  until  they  were  of  age,  if  it  should  be 
found  requisite,  as  in  some  cases  it  might  be.  Such 
an  experiment,  with  persons  of  this  description,  would 
be  highly  interesting.  It  would  put  to  flight  the  ridi- 
culous theory  of  those  who  contend  for  an  organic 
inferiority  on  the  part  of  the  blacks.  It  would  in  time 
produce  examples  very  beneficial  to  our  black  popu- 
lation; and  in  reference  to  the  scheme  of  coloniza- 
tion, now  becoming  popular,  it  might  prove  extremely 
important,  by  furnishirig  individuals  admirably  quali- 
fied by  education,  habits,  and  morals  to  aid  in  the 
management  of  an  infant  colony.  The  great  difficulty 
would  be,  either  in  America,  or  anywhere  else,  in  find- 
ing persons  qualified  to  conduct  such  schools.  Such 
characters  as  Vehrly  are  rare.  Without  a  deep  sense 
of  religion,  united  with  the  proper  intellectual  endow- 
ments, on  the  part  of  the  teacher,  the  scheme  could 
not  prosper.  Its  basis  is  the  mild,  but  fervent  spirit 
of  Christian  love.  It  is,  however,  the  happy  nature 
of  such  a  temper,  to  beget  its  own  likeness  in  the 
hearts  of  others ;  and  it  might  reasonably  be  pre- 
sumed, that  one  successful  example,  would  readily 
prepare  the  way  for  others. 

We  could  not  part  with  the  Count  de  Villevielle, 
without  feeling  and  acknowledging  his  indefatigable 
attentions.  He  is  strongly  impressed  with  the  superi- 
ority of  the  Hofwyl  system.     In  other  places,  he  ob- 


HOFWYL.  401 

serves,  instruction  is  the  end,  and  education  is  only  se- 
condarj.  At  Hofwyl,  education  is  the  end,  and  instruc- 
tion is  regarded  only  as  the  means  of  attaining  it. 

It  was  again  nearly  dark  when  we  left  Hofwyl,  to 
occupy  once  more,  our  chambers  at  the  country  inn. 

4th.  We  partook  of  an  early  breakfast,  and  paid 
the  bill  of  our  landlord,  which  amounted  to  about  eight 
francs  each,  for  five  meals  and  two  nights'  lodging;  by 
far  the  cheapest  fare  I  have  met  with  on  the  continent. 
The  morning  being  fine  we  concluded  to  walk  to 
Berne,  and  engaged  a  man  to  carry  our  parcels  and 
serve  as  a  guide ;  for  there  is  a  foot  way  much 
nearer  than  that  by  which  we  came.  On  leaving 
the  inn,  the  landlord,  his  wife,  and  the  chambermaid, 
all  pressed  forward  to  take  us  by  the  hand,  and  to 
express  their  thanks.  It  was  a  mark  of  honest  sim- 
plicity, as  agreeable,  as  it  would  be  rare  in  almost 
any  other  country  than  Switzerland. 

The  path  led  through  a  beautiful  forest  of  old 
oaks,  beyond  which  was  a  grove  or  wood  of  fir  trees. 
At  the  village  of  Reichenbach,  on  the  river  Aar  ;  my 
companions  diverged  from  the  straight  path,  to  visit  a 
hospital  for  incurables,  and  another  for  insane  pa- 
tients, which  are  situated  near  each  other,  and  at 
some  distance  from  the  town.  They  found  the  for- 
mer in  pretty  good  condition ;  but  the  insane  appear- 
ed to  be  very  much  neglected,  or  at  least  treated 
upon  the  old  plan  of  exclusive  confinement  in  dirty 
and  dark  rooms,  and  on  coarse  and  hard  fare ;  con- 
signed, in  short,  to  irremediable  wretchedness.  I  fol- 
lowed the  guide  directly  to  Berne.  We  crossed  the 
Aar  (a  rapid  river,)  in  a  scow  similar  to  those  used 
with  us.     It  was  managed,  however,  so  as  to  require 


402  BERNE. 

no  rowing  to  transfer  it  from  one  side  of  the  river  to 
the  other.  One  end  of  it  was  fastened,  by  a  long 
rope,  to  the  middle  of  another  rope,  firmly  stretched 
across  the  river,  and  fastened  to  a  high  support  on 
each  side.  The  scow  thus  prevented  from  moving 
down  the  stream,  was  placed  obliquely  to  the  current, 
by  a  large  oar,  used  as  a  sculler  or  rudder;  and 
being  maintained  in  that  position,  was  soon  carried 
across,  by  the  action  of  the  current  against  the  oar 
held  firmly  in  its  place. 

The  entrance  to  Berne,  was  along  a  public  prome- 
nade, extending  a  mile  beyond  the  town,  on  a  high 
bank  of  the  river,  whence  the  eye,  in  addition  to  the 
charmingly  cultivated  fields  and  gardens  of  the  imme- 
diate landscape,  and  the  combined  richness  of  city  and 
country,  comprehended  within  its  grasp,  a  snblimely 
extended  ridge  of  alpine  grandeur,  bleached  by  the 
snows  of  a  perennial  winter.  Great  pains  appear  to 
be  taken,  to  preserve  this  promenade  in  the  best  or- 
der. The  fauxbourgs,  or  outskirts  of  Berne,  are  truly 
remarkable  for  beautiful  walks.  The  river  Aar,  winds 
round  the  town,  in  a  deep  glen,  the  high  banks  of 
which  have  a  rapid  slope,  but  covered  with  fine  ver- 
dure, and  kept  smooth,  either  by  the  scythe,  or  by 
grazing  sheep.  Wood  is  brought  down  the  river,  by 
the  side  next  the  mountain,  and  corded  in  long  piles 
on  its  border.  The  town  itself  is  neat  and  well  built; 
and,  in  one  respect,  differs  from  any  that  I  have  seen. 
On  each  side  of  the  streets,  (which  are  mostly  of  an 
agreeable  width,)  are  arcades,  under  which  the  pas- 
sengers walk,  perfectly  sheltered  from  the  weather, 
and  the  sun.  These  arcades  are  formed  by  the  re- 
cession of  the  first  story  of  the  house,  about  ten  feet 


BERNE J.  J.    ROUSSEAU.  403 

from  the  street;  the  front  wall,  of  the  upper  story, 
being  supported  by  columns  and  arches.  The  shops 
open  into  the  arcades,  and  benches,  or  tables,  are  fre- 
quently placed  under  the  front  arches,  on  which 
goods  are  exposed  for  sale.  The  passenger  has  thus, 
on  each  side  of  him,  wherewith  to  attract  his  atten- 
tion, and  to  tempt  his  purse. 

5th.  The  inn,  at  which  we  have  lodged  in  Berne. 
is  in  reality  one  of  the  best  1  have  ever  been  at.  The 
chamber  in  which  we  were  accommodated,  is  large 
and  elegant.  They  make  up  between  forty  and  fifty 
beds,  besides  those  for  servants.  The  prices  were 
about  the  same  as  at  Geneva;  two  francs  for  break- 
fast, the  same  for  tea  and  for  lodging,  and  three  for 
dinner. 

We  hired  a  voiture,  to  take  us  to  Neufchatel,  dis- 
tant nine  leagues.  The  day  was  wet,  but  the  scenery, 
in  many  places,  compensated  for  the  want  of  good 
weather.  Arberg,  a  village  on  the  Aar,  where  we 
stopped  to  feed  the  horses,  and  dine,  had  nothing  to 
recommend  it.  We  crossed  the  river,  on  a  covered 
wooden  bridge:  from  an  eminence,  which  we  gained 
some  time  before,  the  lake  of  Bienne  presented  itself 
to  our  view,  and  in  it  the  island  of  St.  Pierre,  and 
on  this  island  the  house  which  was  so  long  the  abode 
of  Jean  Jaques  Rousseau.  This  was  the  place  which 
he  chose  as  a  retreat,  from  a  world  which  he  dis- 
liked; but  which  he  did  not  contribute  much,  I  think, 
to  mend.  The  eye  of  a  misanthropist,  is  a  very  mise- 
rable, distorting  kind  of  telescope;  and  a  heart  that 
does  not  glow  with  the  love  of  God  and  man,  will 
serve  as  a  very  poor  and  delusive  guide,  for  the  head 
of  a  reformer.     The  spot  which  Rousseau  chose  for 


404  SWISS  VINTAGE. 

his  residence,  has  enough  of  the  romantic  around  it, 
to  suit  even  his  fastidious  mind,  and  he  has  according- 
ly described  it  in  his  usual  strain  of  luxuriant  co- 
louring. 

On  the  borders  of  the  lake  of  Neufchatel,  the  peo- 
ple were  busy  at  the  vintage ;  the  whole  slope  on  the 
lake  being  covered  with  vines.  The  period  of  ga- 
thering, is  a  season  of  great  hilarity.  Male  and  fe- 
male are  employed  in  the  pleasing  task  of  cutting  and 
collecting  the  grapes.  They  engage  in  this  task  in 
large  companies,  and  are  much  disposed  to  be  merry 
with  each  other,  and  with  passengers.  A  traveller 
can  scarcely  expect  to  pass  such  a  company,  without 
a  salutation  of  some  sort,  and,  as  we  found  to-day,  the 
number  of  female  voices  will  probably  exceed  that  of 
the  men.  The  grapes  are  collected  by  the  vintagers 
in  small  wooden  tubs,  and  thence  transferred  to  a 
large  oval  tub,  carried  on  the  back  of  a  man  through 
the  vineyard,  who,  in  his  turn,  discharges  them  into 
still  larger  wooden  vessels,  which  are  placed  by  the 
side  of  the  field,  or  in  the  road.  In  these  last  vessels, 
the  grapes  are  pounded  with  a  coarse  wooden  dasher, 
which  reduces  them  to  a  semi-fluid  mass,  so  that  they 
can  be  easily  measured.  These  tubs  are  then  con- 
veyed to  the  press,  the  liquor  strained  off,  and  the  re- 
sidue of  the  broken  grapes  is  subjected  to  the  action 
of  a  screw  press,  in  the  same  way  as  ground  apples  are 
treated  in  the  cyder  press.  The  new  wine  is  put  into 
large  casks,  for  fermentation,  whence  it  is  drawn  into 
smaller  vessels,  for  transportation  or  use. 

At  the  outlet  of  the  lake  of  Neufchatel,  we  passed 
through  the  village  of  St.  Blaise.  Between  this  and 
the  town  of  Neufchatel,  the  vineyards  are  rery  pro- 


i\EUCHATEL.  405 

^active.  We  arrived  at  the  latter  place  about  sun- 
down, and  took  rooms  at  the  Faucon.  We  had  no 
letters  to  this  town,  but  Professor  Pictet  had  given  me 
simply  the  names  of  two  persons  here,  the  one  a  mi- 
nister of  religion,  and  the  other  the  secretary  of  the 
government.  With  this  slight  credential,  1  ventured 
to  take  a  guide,  and  directed  him  to  conduct  me  to 
the  house  of  the  latter.  On  knocking  at  the  door,  a 
servant  came  to  open  it,  whom  1  requested  to  inform 
his  master,  that  a  stranger  wished  to  speak  with  him. 
On  his  appearance,  I  stated  to  him  my  case,  very  can- 
didly, and  apologised  for  the  liberty  of  calling  on  him, 
without  an  introduction.  He  immediately  offered  to 
assist  me  in  any  way  in  his  power,  invited  me  into  the 
parlour,  and  seated  me  at  the  tea  table,  beside  his 
wife.  He  proved  himself  to  be  a  man  of  sound  un- 
derstanding, and  of  mild  agreeable  manners.  As  he 
was  deeply  engaged  in  the  concerns  of  the  vintage, 
he  referred  me  to  a  captain  Courant,  who  was  also  at 
the  table,  as  an  excellent  guide,  to  such  places  in  the 
town  as  we  wished  to  visit.  The  captain  offered  his 
services  very  politely.  This  gentleman,  I  soon  found, 
was  a  British  officer,  though  a  native  of  Neuchatel. 
He  had  been  eleven  years  in  the  British  service,  and 
fepoke  English,  of  course,  like  an  Englishman.  He 
engaged  to  call  upon  me  in  the  morning;  and  at  the 
same  time,  the  Secretary  M*********,  offered  to  fur- 
nish me  with  letters  of  introduction,  to  the  two  next 
towns  we  purposed  to  visit.  I  told  him,  before  he  did 
that,  I  ought  at  least  to  convince  him  I  was  the  per- 
son I  pretended  to  be,  and  took  out  of  my  pocket, 
two  letters  of  general  recommendation,  I  had  brought 
from  home,  one  from  the  Governor  of  NcM^-York.  and 
Vol.  I  34 


iOQ  NEUCHATEL. 

the  other  from  the  French  Minister  in  the  United 
States.  He  poUtely  returned  them  to  me,  unopened, 
and  said  there  was  no  occasion  for  them.  On  these 
very  friendly  terms  I  took  leave  of  the  family,  after 
being  treated  to  some  excellent  grapes,  both  white 
and  black,  fresh  from  the  vineyard. 

6th.  Captain  Courant  called  at  eight,  and  conduct- 
ed us  to  a  hospital,  built,  about  seven  years  ago,  by 
a  rich  citizen  of  Neuchatel,  of  the  name  of  Pourtalis, 
at  his  own  expense,  for  the  benefit  of  the  sick  and 
wounded  of  the  whole  country,  except  the  poor  of  the 
town,  who  are  provided  for  in  another  hospital,  or 
alms  house.  The  captain  contrived  to  introduce  us 
while  the  physician  was  in  attendance.  With  this 
gentleman,  Dr.  Castella,  we  were  particularly  pleased. 
He  holds  a  high  rank  as  a  physician  in  the  town,  and, 
as  it  appeared  to  us,  very  deservedly.  The  building, 
the  wards,  the  kitchen,  the  refectory,  &;c.  of  this  hos- 
pital, are  models  of  neatness  and  simplicity.  It  con- 
tains about  thirty  beds.  The  bedsteads  are  of  wrought 
iron,  and  very  light ;  the  head-piece  being  made  to 
slip  into  openings  in  the  horizontal  frame,  so  as  to 
take  off  occasionally,  for  the  convenience  of  removing 
the  bed,  or  of  performing  an  operation.  The  cur- 
tains are  suspended  from  an  iron  frame  projecting 
from  the  wall,  immediately  over  the  bed.  The  pa- 
tients in  this  hospital  cost,  upon  an  average,  about 
fifteen  batz,  equal  to  forty  cents,  per  day.  Dr.  C. 
showed  us  his  pharmacopeia  for  the  hospital.  He 
relies  very  much  on  simples.  The  sick  are  attended 
altogether  by  the  sisters  of  charity  from  Besan9on,  in 
France.  They  are  nurses,  cooks,  maids,  and  even 
apothecaries.     Who  can   question  the   sincerity  or 


NEUCHATEL.  407 

Uprightness  of  the  motives  which  can  so  operate 
upon  beautiful  and  interesting  females,  as  to  induce 
(hem  to  withdraw  from  the  world,  and  devote  their 
"^ays  and  nights  to  the  alleviation  of  human  misery, 
^ven  in  some  of  its  most  disgusting  forms  ?  The  chapel 
of  L'hopital  Pourtales  is  adapted  both  to  Protestants 
and  Catholics.  When  the  former  assemble  in  it,  a  cur- 
tain is  drawn  in  front  of  the  recess  which  contains  the 
crucifix  and  its  appendages.  The  benevolent  founder 
of  this  neat  and  interesting  charity,  left,  at  his  death,, 
a  handsome  fund  for  its  support.  His  sons  have  since 
increased  the  amount.  They  are  considered  as  among 
the  wealthiest  men  in  Switzerland.  The  town  is  also 
indebted  to  Pourtales  for  various  other  improvements, 
particularly  a  fine  promenade  on  the  lake,  built  at 
great  expense.     His  fortune  was  made  in  trade. 

The  captain  next  conducted  us  to  a  wine  press,  be- 
longing  to  Secretary  Monfmollin.  We  there  tasted  ol 
the  new  wine,  as  it  ran  from  the  press.  It  differs  very 
little,  either  in  appearance  or  taste  (i.  e.  the  white 
wine)  from  new  cider,  except  that  it  is  less  palatable. 
Nor  is  the  wine  commonly  drunk  at  table,  more  exhi- 
larating than  our  cider.  A  bottle  of  it  can  be  easily 
managed  at  a  meal,  by  a  person  whose  head  is  no 
stronger  than  mine  ;  but  a  bottle  of  good  cider  I  have 
seldom  ventured  to  drink  at  one  sitting.  The  red 
wine  requires  to  be  slightly  fermented  in  the  tub  be* 
fore  it  is  pressed,  in  order  to  give  it  a  good  colour  and 
flavour.  The  white  wine  does  not  require  this.  From 
the  press  it  is  conveyed  to  the  wine  cellar,  and  depo- 
sited in  wooden  vessels  that  hold  from  nineteen  to  fifty 
thousand  bottles.  In  the  month  of  March  it  is  racked 
off  into  casks,  in  which  it  is  left  till  autumn,  and  then 


408  NEUCHATEL. 

bottled.  Among  the  vignerons  there  is,  however,  a 
dispute,  as  Montmollin  informed  me,  relative  to  the 
advantage  of  letting  the  wine  remain  on  the  lees  until 
it  is  bottled,  or  put  into  fresh  casks.  It  is  alleged  hy 
many,  that  the  lees  at  the  bottom  serve  to  attract, 
more  effectually,  the  fine  particles  which  remain  sus- 
pended in  the  wine,  and  which  injure  its  beauty  and 
flavour. 

The  town  of  Neuchatel  contains  about  4000  per- 
sons. Some  of  the  houses  are  of  princely  size?  with 
grounds  corresponding.  The  town  is  greatly  indebted 
to  two  of  its  citizens,  Pourtales,  (of  whom  I  have  spo- 
ken) and  Pury,  who  built  a  large  town-house,  for 
public  business,  and  made  a  present  of  it  to  his  fel- 
low citizens.  Such  evidences  of  generosity  and  pub- 
lic spirit  afibrd  the  most  delightful  testimonials  of  the 
moral  feeling  which  pervades  the  country.  There 
are  no  people,  perhaps,  on  the  globe,  more  famous  for 
their  amor  patriae,  than  the  Swiss  ;  and  yet  there  are 
none  who  so  readily  hire  themselves  as  soldiers  to 
other  nations,  without  regard  to  the  cause  in  which 
they  engage.  This  cannot  surely  be  owing  to  any 
innate  love  of  war  and  bloodshed,  for  the  Swiss  are 
naturally  a  mild  and  amiable,  though  highminded 
people.  It  must  arise  either  from  incidental  and  long 
established  custom — or  from  the  necessity  of  emigra- 
gration,  in  consequence  of  a  dense  and  over-crowded 
population.  It  is,  however,  a  melancholy  considera- 
tion, that  any  one  nation  of  professing  Christians 
should  be  the  habitual  encouragers  of  so  anti-Chris- 
tian a  practice  as  war;  and  especially,  in  cases  in 
which  they  have  no  immediate  interest.  As  a  national 
trait,  this  cannot  but  be  regarded,  I  should  suppose^ 


NEUCHATEL MOUNT  JURA.  409 

bj  every  serious  and  enlightened  member  of  the  Swiss 
confederacy,  as  a  great  blemish  in  the  character  oi 
the  country.  How  much  of  this  error  might  be  re- 
medied by  education,  if  the  children  of  the  country 
were  taught  to  regard  wars  and  fightings  in  the  light 
in  which  they  are  placed  by  the  whole  letter  and  spi- 
rit of  the  New  Testament ;  by  every  precept  of  the 
Saviour,  and  every  injunction  of  his  disciples  and 
apostles,  how  small  would  be  the  number  of  those  that 
would  embark  in  war,  merely  as  a  profession,  and 
risk  their  lives  and  happiness  in  the  quarrels  of  others, 
only  for  the  sake  of  gaining  a  living! 

Being  provided  with  two  letters  from  Montmollin, 
and  one  from  Captain  Courant,  we  departed,  at  eleven 
o'clock,  in  a  kind  of  voiture,  for  an  excursion  on  Mount 
Jura.  The  day  was  very  wet,  but  this  did  not  prevent 
us  from  enjoying  the  sublime  scenery,  and  surprising 
evidence  of  industry,  which  this  excursion  afforded. 
The  road  was  an  almost  continual  ascent,  for  four 
leagues.  At  the  end  of  about  three  hours,  we  crossed 
a  valley,  six  miles  long,  and  three  wide,  which  con- 
tains twenty-two  villages !  At  one  of  these  (Fontaine 
Melon)  we  stopped,  and  were  introduced  by  one  of 
our  letters,  to  M.  Banqueret,  a  manufacturer  of  the 
coarser  parts  of  watch- work.  He  took  us  through 
his  shops,  in  which  about  150  persons  are  employed, 
in  making  the  wheels,  springs,  and  other  parts  of 
watches,  which  they  effect  almost  entirely  by  ma- 
chinery. We  saw  the  operation,  from  the  cutting  of 
the  brass  out  of  thick  sheets,  and  rolling  it  by  a  horse 
power,  to  the  fashioning  of  some  of  the  smallest  wheels, 
the  fusees,  cutting  the  teeth,  &c.    This  single  factory, 

34* 


410  CHAUX-DE-FOND. 

I  should  suppose,  could  supply  these  materials  in  sui- 
ticient  quantity  for  oue  h;ilf  the  United  States. 

We  continued  our  journey,  through  a  heavy  rain, 
further  up  the  mountain,  and  arrived  about  four  at 
Chaux-de-Fond.  This  is  a  town  which  has  sprung  up 
within  a  short  period.  Most  of  the  houses  are  built  of 
stone,  and  appear  new.  Many  of  them  are  three  and 
four  stories  high,  and  of  a  proportionate  width.  It  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  a  valley,  near  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  and  is  computed  to  contain  1000  inhabit- 
ants. Nearly  the  whole  business  of  the  town  is  the 
manufacture  of  watches  and  clocks.  As  we  were  to 
stay  here  but  a  few  hours,  1  hastened  to  take  a  letter 
of  introduction  directed  by  my  kind  friend  Montmol- 

lin,  "  a  Monsieur,  Monsieur ministre  du  Saint 

Evangile,  et  tres  digne  Pasteur,  a  Chaux-de-Fond." 
But  to  our  regret  the  "  very  worthy  pastor"  was  not 
at  home.  He  had  left  his  flock  for  a  season,  and  gone 
to  Neuchatel  to  get  in  his  grapes,  and  make  his  wine. 
Our  next  resource  was  a  "gar^on  de  place,"  one  of  a 
very  useful  kind  of  people,  who  are  to  be  met  with 
in  every  town,  not  excepting  those  on  Mount  Jura. 
They  are  mostly  recognised  by  the  government,  and 
are  obliged  to  conform  to  prescribed  rules  and  prices, 
when  hired  by  the  day.  This  secures  their  fidelity. 
He  escorted  us  to  one  of  the  principal  watch  dealers, 
Robert  Droz  &  Co.  We  were  immediately  invited 
into  the  shop,  and  to  satisfy  our  curiosity,  (for  we 
stated  that  to  be  our  motive,)  the  drawers  and  cases 
were  opened  with  the  utmost  politeness,  and  watches, 
in  a  greater  variety  than  I  had  ever  seen,  displayed 
before  us.  As  to  prices,  a  stranger  must  be  hard  to 
please  if  he  cannot  be  suited,  for  he  may  have  his 


cHaux-de-fond,  411 

choice  between  2i  and  200  dollars.  We  were  offered 
gold  watches  for  4^  Napoleon's,  or  17  dollars.  Vast 
quantities  of  these  low  priced  articles,  are  manufac- 
tured expressly  for  America.  We  have  been  told 
that  one  house  in  this  town,  sends  annually  to  Ame- 
rica 20,000  watches.  It  comprehends,  probably,  both 
North  and  South  America.  These  traders,  finding 
that  English  watches  were  gaining  a  preference  in 
our  market,  on  account  of  their  superiority,  now  make 
theirs  to  imitate,  precisely  in  appearance,  those  of 
London.  Many  of  those  shown  us,  were  marked 
George  Prior,  London.  None  but  a  watchmaker  can, 
on  this  account,  discover  the  difference  between  a 
valuable  watch,  and  one  of  those  spurious  articles, 
which  are  sold  in  such  quantities  at  auction  in 
New-York.  Musical  boxes  were  also  displayed  in 
great  variety,  but  we  left  the  shop  without  yielding 
to  the  temptation  of  elegance  and  cheapness.  In 
another  house  we  were  shown  clocks  of  various  sorts. 
One  of  them  was  placed  behind  a  beautiful  painting, 
representing  a  village  landscape ;  in  the  village  was 
a  church  with  a  steeple,  and  in  the  steeple  a  clock, 
the  hands  of  which,  being  moved  by  the  machinery 
behind,  kept  good  time,  and  the  hours  were  struck, 
so  as  to  complete  the  illusion.  We  remained  about  two 
hours  at  Chaux-de-Fond,  and  then  continued  along  the 
valley  to  Locle,  a  similar  town,  two  leagues  further. 

It  was  dark  when  we  arrived.  Our  quarters  at  "  the 
Balance"  proved  to  be  very  good,  and  a  comfortable 
fire  and  plentiful  supper,  compensated  for  the  cold 
and  wet  to  which  we  had  been  exposed  in  our  moun- 
tain ascent.  Having  a  letter  from  the  secretary,  for 
"  Monsieur  Houriet,"  a  noted  watchmaker  and  dealer, 


412  LOCLE. 

the  innkeeper  went  to  inform  him  of  it,  to  save  me 
the  walk.  He  was  not  at  home,  but  his  son  came, 
and  finding  the  letter  was  from  M.  Montmollin,  said 
his  father  would  be  happy  to  wait  on  us,  and  as  he 
was  only  engaged  in  company  at  a  short  distance,  he 
would  inform  him  of  it.  This  we  desired  him  not  to 
do,  as  our  stay  would  be  very  short  in  Locle.  The 
old  gentleman,  however,  soon  appeared,  and  was  very 
complaisant,  offering  his  services  very  heartily,  and 
giving  us  a  great  deal  of  information. 

7th.  We  find  that  M.  Houriet  occupies  the  largest 
house,  and  is  the  wealthiest  man  in  the  place.  His  shop 
is  exceedingly  neat,  and  contains  a  variety  of  ingenious 
pieces  of  mechanism,  for  which  he  has  a  particular 
talent.  He  showed  us  a  neat  little  balance,  weighing 
only  35  grains,  and  which  turned  with  the  4096  part 
of  a  grain.  He  went  with  us  to  see  several  objects  of 
curiosity,  which  the  town  and  neighbourhood  afford. 
The  first  was  a  charity  school,  containing  about  forty 
children,  "^^Ve  de  la  misere^''  as  he  expressed  it.  They 
are  lodged,  clothed,  and  fed,  taught  to  read,  write, 
and  cypher,  and  to  understand  music,  and  are  em- 
ployed in  the  manufacture  of  lace.  We  found  them 
busy  at  work,  seated  at  small  tables,  and  handling  the 
little  spools  with  great  dexterity.  Lace  is  made  by 
a  kind  of  hand-weaving  or  twisting,  the  thread  being 
wound  on  very  small  spools.  We  were  shown  some 
patterns,  in  which  800  of  these  spools  must  be  hand- 
led in  succession  to  produce  the  figure.  The  work  ot 
the  children,  Houriet  supposed,  might  amount  to  one- 
third  or  one  half  of  the  expense  of  their  maintenance. 
The  residue  is  provided  by  a  charitable  society  of 
females,  of  which  his  daughter  is  an  active  member^ 


LOCLE.  413 

One  of  these  little  creatures  was  found  at  the  door  of 
the  house,  one  morning,  in  a  bag,  with  a  note,  stating 
that  its  parents  were  in  the  utmost  distress,  and  una- 
ble to  preserve  it.  This  the  committee  afterwards 
found  to  be  true.  The  mistress  had  them  all  collect- 
ed into  one  room,  and  made  them  sing  a  hymn  before 
us ;  which  they  performed  while  at  their  work,  with- 
out notes  or  book.* 

We  were  taken  further  on  to  see  a  work  of  great 
industry  and  enterprise.  The  stream  which  runs 
through  the  valley,  had  no  other  outlet  than  an  al- 
most perpendicular  cavern,  or  pit,  in  the  side  of  the 
mountain  This  outlet,  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  was 
insufficient  to  carry  otTthe  water,  and  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  valley  was,  in  consequence,  overflown. 
The  project  was  conceived,  of  perforating  the  moun- 
tain in  a  different  place  from  the  cavern,  and  driving 
a  canal  through  its  base.  This  was  treated,  at  first, 
as  an  extravagant  whim ;  but  at  length  put  into  exe- 
cution and  completely  effected.  The  base  of  the 
mountain  is  920  feet  thick,  and  the  width  of  the  canal 
is  five  feet,  and  its  height  four  and  a  half  It  is  driven 
mostly  through  solid  rock.  Houriet  informed  us  that 
when  the  barometer  was  low,  (its  medium  height  be- 
ing but  twenty-six  inches)  the  workmen  could  scarcely 
breathe  in  the  cavity  of  the  canal,  and  were  obliged 
to  desist,  till  the  weather  changed.  When  the  pas-> 
sage  was  completed,  a  grand  fete  was  held  on  the 

*  It  was  truly  delightful  to  find,  ia  a  village  so  remote  from  the  vulgar 
throng,  such  a  display  of  Christian  charity.  It  was  commenced  by  Mada» 
moiselle  Calame,  who  accustomed  herself,  from  her  early  youth,  to  visit  the 
abodes  of  distress,  and  to  assuage  the  wants  of  the  poor.  In  1820  it  con- 
tained eighty  girls.    Bib.  Univ.  Avril,  1820. 


414  LOCLE. 

spot;  at  the  conclusion  of  which,  the  water  was  sud- 
denly opened  into  its  new  channel,  and  rushed  in  a 
torrent  through  the  mountain.  As  soon  as  it  appear- 
on  the  other  side,  the  hills  rang  with  acclamation 
and  triumph.  The  valley  is  now  converted  into  a 
fine  meadow.  At  the  cavern,  or  place  of  its  former 
exit,  three  mills  were  constructed,  one  over  another; 
the  water  pouring  from  the  upper  wheel  on  the  se- 
cond, and  from  that  on  the  third.  The  lowermost  of 
the  three,  is  now  neglected. 

The  town  of  Locle  contains  4000  inhabitants,  all 
manufacturers  either  of  watches  or  lace.  Our  con- 
ductor, though  74  years  of  age,  had  the  sprightliness 
and  vivacity  of  a  young  Frenchman.  By  his  talents 
and  wealth  he  has  become  the  chief  of  these  village 
mountaineers.  He  informed  us  that  the  king  of  Prus- 
sia, in  his  visit  to  Locle,  had  breakfasted  with  him  "  a 
la  fourchette  ;"  which  implies,  a  breakfast  at  eleven  or 
twelve  o'clock,  with  all  the  variety  of  a  dinner.  As 
an  evidence  of  the  social  character  of  these  people, 
Houriet  stated  that  he  had  appropriated  a  large  room 
of  his  house  to  the  purpose-  of  a  converzatione,  or 
meeting,  which  assembled  every  evening  for  conver- 
sation, and  other  amusements  which  they  consider 
rational. 

The  day  being  cloudy  and  misty,  we  were  prevent- 
ed from  enjoying  that  noble  view  of  the  Alps,  which 
the  descent  of  the  Jura  affords.  The  great  Alpine 
ranges,  must,  in  clear  weather,  present  themselves, 
with  the  most  sublime  effect,  from  the  top  of  the  Jura  ; 
and,  probably,  from  no  situation,  could  they  be  view- 
ed with  more  of  panoramic  grandeur  and  beauty,  than 
from  many  points  over  which  we  passed  in  this  day's 


LOCLE Y  VERDUN.  415 

ride.  The  scenery,  however,  immediately  around  us 
was  very  interesting.  The  canton  of  Neuchatel  is 
a  duchy  of  Prussia.  The  king  derives  httle  or  no 
revenue  from  it,  but  its  acknowledged  allegiance 
serves  as  a  political  check,  in  ordinary  times,  on  the 
side  of  France.  It  forms  also  a  constituent  part  of 
the  Swiss  government ;  that  is,  it  is  represented  in 
the  general  diet  and  has  a  vote  with  the  other  can- 
tons. It  bears  the  same  relation  to  Prussia,  as  Han- 
over does  to  England.  Its  population  is  about  40,000. 
Its  surface  is  altogether  mountainous,  the  land  pro- 
ducing not  more  than  sufficient  for  one  fourth  of  the 
people  :  their  mechanical  industry  and  talents  sup- 
ply them  with  the  remainder.  There  are  probably 
more  watches  made  in  this  canton  than  in  all  the 
world  besides. 

In  our  descent  from  Locle,  we  passed  through  or 
near  Colombier,  St.  Aubin,  Grandson,  and  other  villa- 
ges, and  arrived  at  Yverdun  about  nine  in  the  evening. 
We  put  up  at  the  Hotel  de  la  ville  de  Londres,  where 
we  found  the  accommodations  rather  of  a  superior 
kind. 

8th.  Breakfast  finished,  our  first  and  chief  concern 
liere  was  to  visit  the  celebrated  institute  of  Pesta- 
lozzi.  This  establishment  occupies  a  large  castle, 
the  use  of  which  was  granted  to  Pestalozzi  by  the 
canton  of  Berne,  when  the  town  of  Yverdun  was  in- 
cluded in  that  canton.  The  government  of  the  Pays 
de  Vawd,  to  which  it  now  belongs,  continues  the  grant. 
On  entering  the  castle,  we  were  invited  into  a  private 
room.  I  gave  my  letters  to  the  person  in  attendance, 
who  took  them  immediately  to  the  chief  The  good 
old  man  soon  came  in,  and  seized  me  warmlv  bv  the 


416  ^VERDUiV. 

hand,  and  seeing  my  hat  on  my  head,  he  pointed  to  it 
in  a  sort  of  ecstasy,  with  his  eyes  almost  filled  with 
lears.  I  hardly  knew  how  to  interpret  this  emotion, 
and  asked  him  if  he  wished  me  to  take  it  off  He 
answered  very  earnestly,  "  no,  no,  no,  keep  it  on,  you 
are  right."  He  seemed  very  glad  to  see  us,  and  as  he 
speaks  French  very  imperfectly,  and  with  an  indistinct 
accent,  he  said  he  would  call  Monsieur  G******  to 
talk  with  us.  This  gentleman  soon  came  and  enter- 
ed immediately  into  a  detail  of  the  institution,  its 
principles,  its  spirit,  its  arrangement,  &c.  He  is  an 
Englishman,  and,  as  I  found  upon  inquiry,  brother  to 
the  lady  whom  I  had  seen  at  Lausanne.  He  has  been 
some  weeks  with  Pestalozzi,  for  the  purpose  of  un- 
derstanding his  system  thoroughly,  in  order  to  aid  a 
sister  in  England  in  the  education  of  her  children. 
He  enters  warmly  into  its  concerns,  and  will  be  use- 
ful in  making  it  better  known.  He  explained  to  us 
very  clearly  the  leading  ideas  and  views  of  human 
nature,  which  induced  Pestalozzi  to  become  an  in- 
structor of  youth.  The  two  great  instruments  with 
which  he  works  are  faith  and  love.  He  discards  the 
motives  of  ambition  and  emulation,  as  unnecessary, 
and  as  tending  to  counteract  the  sentiment  of  good 
will  toward  others.  He  thinks  there  is  enough  in  the 
intuitive  understanding  of  every  child  to  accomplish 
the  complete  growth  and  maturity  of  its  faculties, 
if  its  reason  be  properly  trained  and  nourished,  and 
not  warped  by  injudicious  treatment.  The  com- 
mon plans  of  education  he  regards  as  too  artificial, 
too  wide  a  departure  from  nature.  Too  much  stress 
is  laid  upon  the  memory,  while  the  imagination  is 
too  much  neglected.      If  the  native  feelings  of  the 


Y  VERDUN.  4  IT 

heart,  are  allowed  to  operate,  under  the  dominion  of 
the  native  powers  of  the  mind,  drawn  out  and  expan- 
ded by  faith  and  love,  the  child  is  competent  of  itself 
to  arrive  gradually  at  the  most  correct  and  important 
conclusions  in  religion  and  science.  There  is  a  na- 
tive and  inherent  life,  which  only  requires  to  be  cher- 
ished by  genial  treatment,  to  bring  it  into  the  full  at- 
tainment of  truth,  and  to  the  utmost  perfection  of  its 
being.  He  therefore  insists  upon  the  greatest  pains 
being  taken  to  draw  out  this  native  life  and  to  pre- 
serve it  in  full  vigour.  There  is  a  constant  danger  of 
urging  the  child  forward  beyond  its  natural  strength, 
of  anticipating  its  conclusions  and  thus  weakening  its 
confidence  in  its  own  powers.  In  the  plans  he  adopts 
nothing  is  to  be  got  by  heart.  The  understanding  is 
to  be  thoroughly  reached,  and  then  the  memory  will 
take  care  of  itself. 

His  school  consists  at  present  of  about  90  boys, 
German,  Prussian,  French,  Swiss,  Italian,  Spanish  and 
English.  It  is  divided  into  four  principal  classes, 
according  to  the  attainments  of  the  pupils.  These 
classes  are  subdivided  into  others.  There  are  seven 
school  rooms  in  the  castle,  and  twelve  teachers  or 
professors.  His  head  professor,  Joseph  Schmidt,  has 
been  brought  up  in  the  institution,  and  is  a  very  effi- 
cient and  worthy  man.  He  is  a  native  of  one  of  the 
German  cantons,  and  speaks  and  writes  perfectly  the 
German  and  French.  He  is  a  man  of  modest  de- 
meanor, and  entirely  devoted  to  the  institution.  He 
has  written  treatises  on  several  of  the  subjects  taughi 
in  the  school,  and  adapted  to  its  methods. 

We  spent  most  of  the  day  in  the  different  school- 
rooms, witnessing  the  exercises  of  the  scholars.    Very 

Voir.  I.  35 


41-8  YVERDUN. 

few  books  are  used,  as  it  is  expected  the  children  can 
read  well  before  they  come  there.  But  to  describe 
the  modes  of  teaching,  so  as  to  render  them  clearly 
intelligible,  would  require  much  more  time  and  space 
than  1  can  possibly  allot  to  it,  were  I  ever  so  compe- 
tent to  make  it  known.  We  saw  the  exercises  of  arith- 
metic, writing,  drawing,  mathematics,  lessons  in  music 
and  gymnastics,  something  of  geography,  French,  La- 
tin, and  German.  To  teach  a  school,  in  the  way  prac- 
tised here,  without  book,  and  almost  entirely  by  verbal 
instruction,  is  extremely  laborious.  The  teacher  must 
be  constantly  with  the  child,  always  talking,  question- 
ing, explaining,  and  repeating.  The  pupils,  however, 
by  this  process,  are  brought  into  very  close  intimacy 
with  the  instructer.  Their  capacities,  all  their  facul- 
ties and  propensities  become  laid  open  to  his  observ^a- 
tion.  This  gives  him  an  advantage,  which  cannot  pos- 
sibly be  gained,  in  the  ordinary  way  in  which  schools 
are  generally  taught.  The  children  look  well,  appear 
very  contented,  and  apparently,  live  in  great  harmony 
one  with  another ;  which,  considering  the  diversity  of 
national  character  and  temper  here  collected,  can  be 
attributed  only  to  the  spirit  of  love  and  aflfection  which 
sways  the  breast  of  the  principal  of  the  institution,  and 
extends  its  benign  influence  throughout  all  the  depart- 
ments. In  the  afternoon  we  went,  with  Pestalozzi, 
G******5  and  B******,  a  German  clergyman,  (who  is 
here  on  a  visit  to  the  institution,)  and  one  or  two  others, 
to  visit  a  free  school  of  twelve  or  fourteen  children, 
which  Pestalozzi  has  established  in  the  village  of  Clen- 
dy,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  castle.  These  are  chil- 
dren taken  from  the  families  of  poor  people,  select- 
ed on  account  of  their  character  and  talents,  in  order 


YVERDUN.  419 

to  be  educated  as  teachers,  with  a  view  to  extend 
and  perpetuate  the  principles  and  operation  of  the 
system.  One  half  of  them  are  boys  and  the  other 
half  girls.  Their  principal  instructor  is  a  sister  of 
Schmidt,  the  chief  master,  an  exceedingly  clever  and 
interesting  young  woman.  She  has  another  sister 
also  with  her,  younger  than  herself,  who  will  soon  be- 
come qualified  to  act  as  an  instructer.  These  pupils 
were  exercised  before  us,in  drawing,in  arithmetic, and 
in  music.  The  girls,  seated  round  a  table,  and  busy 
with  their  needles,  had  questions  in  arithmetic  given 
them  by  the  mistress,  which  they  were  to  solve  by  their 
heads.  They  are  thus  led  on,  from  the  most  simple 
beginnings,  to  comprehend  the  principles  of  arith- 
metic, and  to  work  questions  with  great  expertness, 
solely  by  a  mental  process.  A  male  teacher  is  pro- 
vided for  the  boys,  though  the  mistress  often  assists  in 
their  instruction.  This  little  school  promises  to  be 
well  cared  for,  and  of  service  to  the  Pestalozzian 
cause.  We  were  much  pleased  with  its  appearance, 
and  with  the  assurance  it  affords,  that  whatever  there 
is  of  value  and  importance  in  this  system,  will  not 
be  lost. 

The  success  of  this  mode  of  instruction,  greatly  de- 
pends on  the  personal  qualifications  of  those  who  un- 
dertake to  conduct  it.  There  is  nothing  of  mechanism 
in  it,  as  in  the  Lancasterian  plan ;  no  laying  down  of 
precise  rules  for  managing  classes,  &c.  It  is  all  mind 
and  feeling.  Its  arrangements  must  always  depend  on 
the  ages,  talents,  and  tempers  of  the  scholars,  and  re- 
quires, on  the  part  of  the  teachers,  the  most  diligent 
and  faithful  attention.  Above  all,  it  requires  that  the 
teacher  should  consider  himself  as  the  father  and  bo- 


420  Y  VERDUN. 

3om  friend  of  his  pupils,  and  to  be  animated  with  the 
most  aflfectionate  desires  for  their  good.  Pestalozzi 
himself  is  all  this.  His  heart  glows  with  such  a  spirit, 
that  the  good  old  man  can  hardly  refrain  from  bestow- 
ing kisses  on  all  with  whom  he  is  concerned.  He 
holds  out  his  hand  to  his  pupils  on  every  occasion,  and 
they  love  him  as  a  child  loves  its  mother.  His  plan 
of  teaching  is  just  fit  for  the  domestic  fireside,  with  a 
father  or  mother  in  the  centre,  and  a  circle  of  happy 
children  around  them.  He  is  aware  of  this,  and  wishes 
to  extend  the  knowledge  of  his  plan  to  every  parent. 
Pestalozzi  is  seventy-two  years  of  age.  It  has  been 
quite  unfortunate  for  the  progress  of  his  system  on  the 
continent,  that  he  pays  so  little  attention  to  exteriors, 
regarding  dress,  furniture,  Szc.  as  of  no  moment  what- 
ever, provided  the  mind  and  heart  be  right. 

9th.  The  weather  continuing  wet,  we  resolved  to 
wait  till  to-morrow,  and  take  the  diligence  to  Lau- 
sanne and  Geneva.  Much  of  the  day  was  spent  at  the 
castle,  in  the  school-rooms,  and  in  conversation  with 
G******.  I  omitted  to  mention,  that  we  attended  last 
evening,  to  the  religious  exercise  which  terminates 
the  business  of  the  day.  The  scholars  assembled  in 
a  room  called  the  chapel,  but  very  simply  furnished, 
with  benches,  and  a  table.  When  all  were  collected, 
Pestalozzi,  directing  his  face  chiefly  to  the  boys,  began 
to  speak  in  German,  moving  about,  from  side  to  side, 
directing  his  attention,  for  some  time,  to  the  boys  on 
his  right,  and  then  advancing  towards  those  on  his 
left.  This  motion,  backwards  and  forwards,  continued 
about  twenty  minutes;  he  was  constantly  speaking, 
and  sometimes  with  considerable  earnestness.  It  was 
altogether  unintelligible  to  me,  but  I  afterwards  learn- 


Y  VERDUN.  421 

ed,  that  it  consisted  of  a  recapitulation  of  the  occur- 
rences of  the  day,  noticing  particularly  every  thing  of 
moment,  and  intermingling  the  whole  with  short  pray- 
ers, adapted  to  the  circumstances  mentioned  in  the 
discourse.  If,  for  example,  any  of  the  boys  had  quar- 
relled, or  behaved  unseemly  to  each  other,  or  to  their 
teacher,  he  would  speak  to  the  case,  and  accompany 
his  remarks  with  a  pious  ejaculation.  It  is  probable, 
that  he  sometimes  engages  more  formally  in  this  ex- 
ercise. As  it  was,  it  appeared  to  gain  the  whole  at- 
tention of  his  audience.  It  was  concluded  by  reading, 
from  a  small  book,  what  appeared  to  be  a  hymn  or 
psalm. 

A  company  of  English  visiters  attended  at  the  castle 
to-day,  consisting;  of  men  and  women.  The  boys  per- 
formed some  of  their  gymnastic  exercises  before  them, 
consisting  chiefly  of  simple,  but  simultaneous  move- 
ments of  the  arms,  legs,  feet,  head,  &c.,  stepping, 
marching,  turning,  and  jumping,  all  intended  to  exer- 
cise the  various  muscles,  which  give  motion  to  the 
limbs  and  head,  and  to  make  the  boys  acquainted 
with  the  elements  of  all  those  movements.  This  ex- 
ercise took  place  in  one  of  the  large  bed-rooms.  We 
attended,  by  invitation,  last  evening,  a  lecture  given 
by  Schmidt,  the  head  teacher,  to  a  number  of  young 
men,  among  whom  were  four  Russians,  sent  by  the 
Emperor  to  gain  information,  in  England,  and  other 
countries,  relative  to  the  best  modes  of  teaching. 
They  had  been  in  England,  and  spoke  our  language 
tolerably  well.  The  lectures  are  to  illustrate  more 
fully,  the  principles  and  processes  adopted  in  the 
Pestalozzian  institution. 

35  * 


422 


YVERDUiV. 


We  had  the  company,  this  evening,  at  our  lodgings* 
of  Frederick  Bucholz,  who  was  late  a  chaplain  to  the 
king's  German  legion  in  England.  He  had  been  some 
time  with  Pestalozzi,  and  was  able  to  inform  us,  more 
fully,  with  respect  to  some  parts  of  the  system,  than 
we  could  obtain  by  a  short  visit  to  the  school  itself 

lOth.  The  town  of  Yverdun  is  pleasantly  situated, 
at  the  head  of  the  lake  of  Neuchatel,  and  contains, 
•probably,  2500  inhabitants.  It  is  pretty  well  built ; 
the  streets,  in  common  with  most  of  the  towns  in 
Switzerland,  are  paved  with  round  stones.  We  have 
been  surprised,  in  observing  the  large  droves  of  cows, 
which  have  passed  through  the  streets  to-day,  most 
of  them  with  huge  bells  round  their  necks.  The  noise 
they  make  is  almost  deafening.  These  cows  are  ta- 
ken to  the  mountains  to  pasture,  during  the  summer, 
in  great  numbers  ;  the  shepherds,  or  rather  cowherds, 
allowing  a  certain  sum  for  the  produce  of  the  milk  and 
butter.  On  the  day  of  St.  Denis,  they  are  returned 
again  to  the  valley. 

We  have  had  at  our  table  d'hote,  the  last  two  days, 
ten  or  twelve  boys,  with  their  three  preceptors,  con- 
stituting a  boarding  school  at  Geneva.  They  are  on 
an  excursion,  round  the  lake  of  Geneva,  taking  Yver- 
dun  in  the  way.  They  came  to  this  place  on  foot, 
through  the  rain,  and  intended  to  perform  the  whole 
journey  on  foot ;  but  the  weather  continuing  very  wet, 
they  went  off  this  morning  in  carriages.  One  of  them 
is  a  young  prince  of  Wirtemberg,  about  twelve  years 
of  age,  of  plain  juvenile  manners,  exhibiting  no  extra- 
ordinary talent,  but  apparently  of  an  amiable  temper. 

We  left  Yverdun  in  the  diligence,  after  going  again 
to  the  castle,  and  taking  leave  of  some  of  the  profess- 


YVERDUN.  423 

ors.  Pestalozzi  was  not  in  ;  he  had  been  to  see  us  at 
the  inn,  but  missed  of  us.  Before  we  set  oflT,  however, 
the  good  old  man  came  down  again,  and  parted  with 
us  verj  aflfectionately.  In  the  course  of  the  two  days 
which  we  have  spent  at  the  castle,  he  several  times 
pressed  my  hand  to  his  lips,  and  seemed  to  possess  all 
the  love  and  fervency  of  a  true  disciple  in  the  cause  in 
which  he  is  engaged.  If  his  personal  talents,  address, 
and  management,  were  equal  either  to  his  genius,  or 
his  zeal,  his  influence  would  have  been  much  greater 
even  than  it  has  been.  Nevertheless,  his  life  and  la- 
bours will,  I  fully  believe,  be  hereafter  regarded  as  a 
most  important  epoch,  in  the  history  of  education. 
When  his  principles  come  to  be  more  generally  un- 
derstood, they  will  be  found  to  contain  much  that  is 
extremely  valuable.  It  is  to  be  feared,  however,  that 
many  years  will  still  elapse,  before  the  world  is  put  in 
possession  of  a  complete  explanatory  view  of  his  whole 
system.  He  does  not  himself  possess  the  faculty,  (as 
Bucholz  informed  me,)  of  explaining,  in  familiar  and 
intelligible  terms,  his  own  principles.  He  conceives 
with  wonderful  acuteness,  and  expresses  himself  in 
language  of  extraordinary  force  and  energy,  but  it  re- 
quires a  deep  and  steady  attention,  to  be  able  to  em- 
brace his  whole  meaning.  He  has  published  largely 
in  explanation,  and  in  support  of  his  plans  of  instruc- 
tion ;  but  there  is  so  much  of  vernacular  pith — of  idio- 
matic force  and  peculiarity,  in  his  style  and  manner,  as 
to  render  it  rather  difficult  to  read  him,  and  still  more 
so,  to  translate  his  writings.  He  is  now,  however, 
anxious  to  have  all  his  works  translated  into  English, 
fully  believing,  that  the  merit  of  his  plans  will  be  bet- 
ter understood,  and  his  principles  more  industriously 


424  RETURN    TO    GENEVA. 

supported  by  the  English  nation,  than  by  Iiis  own  peo- 
ple. His  career  has  been  marked  with  perplexities. 
He  has  had  to  struggle  intensely  against  poverty,  ne- 
glect, prejudice,  and  gross  misrepresentation  ;  but  his 
patience,  his  meekness,  his  perseverance,  his  ardent 
love  of  his  fellow  creatures,  have  borne  him  through 
all  his  trials ;  and  notwithstanding  his  advanced  age, 
the  reputation  of  his  school,  is  now  as  high,  if  not  high- 
er, than  it  ever  has  been.  Towards  those  who  have 
generously  contributed  to  aid  him  in  his  pecuniary 
difficulties,  his  heart  glows  with  the  liveliest  gratitude. 
Of  two  of  my  acquaintance,  one  of  London,  and  the 
other  of  Philadelphia,  who  had  thus  befriended  him, 
he  could  not  speak  without  evident  emotion. 

The  road  to  Lausanne  is  very  picturesque,  passing 
along  the  valley  of  the  Orbe,  which  empties  into  the 
lake.  The  view  from  the  town  of  Orbe,  situated  on 
a  high  eminence,  is  considered  as  inferior  to  few  in 
this  romantic  country,  for  richness  of  prospect.  But 
the  day  being  cloudy  and  wet,  we  could  not  so  well 
enjoy  it.  We  reached  Lausanne  soon  after  dark,  and 
occupied  again  our  former  rooms  at  "the  Balance." 

11th.  Left  Lausanne  at  five.  The  rain  had  ceased 
and  the  morning  was  pleasant.  Arrived  again  at  Ge- 
neva, I  found  upon  inquiry,  that  Professor  Pictet  had 
gone  to  Paris,  and  it  being  a  period  of  vacation  in  the 
Academy,  the  other  professors,  or  at  least  some  of 
them,  were  also  absent. 

The  state  of  morals  in  Geneva,  appeared  to  me  to 
be  upon  the  whole  very  respectable.  There  was 
little  appearance  of  disorder  in  the  streets,  and  much 
less  apparent  neglect  of  the  Sabbath,  than  was  obvi- 
ous in  France.     On  the  evening  of  that  day,  however, 


GENEVA.  425 

when  the  reh'gious  exercises  are  over,  public  amuse- 
ments are  more  resorted  to  than  in  England  or  Ame- 
rica. On  one  of  those  occasions,  during  our  stay  in 
Geneva,  the  theatre  was  open  in  the  evening,  and  a 
comedy  advertised  to  be  acted.  The  town  has  been 
much  agitated  of  late  with  religious  disputations. 
The  question  lies,  if  I  understand  it  rightly,  between 
Calvinists  and  Unitarians.  The  contest  is  of  long 
standing,  and  the  temper  it  produces,  as  is  almost  in- 
fallibly the  case,  is  adverse  to  the  growth  and  opera- 
tion of  vital  religion. 

We  called  this  evening  on  Simond  de  Sismondi,  to 
whom  1  was  introduced  by  the  Abbe  Gregoire.  There 
are  few  Swiss  writers  who  hold  a  higher  rank  m 
the  republic  of  letters.  He  speaks  English  with  ease 
and  fluency,  and  we  had  a  pleasant  and  interesting 
conversation. 


LETTER    XV. 

Milan,  lOth  month,  {October)  20,  1818. 

My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

Having  decided  upon  .crossing  the  Simplon  to  Mi- 
lan, we  were  occupied  during  part  of  the  day,  in  in- 
quiring after  and  engaging  a  good  voiture.  Geneva 
abounds  with  voituriers,  or  hackney-men,  all  disposed 
to  gain  a  job,  and  prompt  in  offering  their  accommo- 
dations, but  not  all  worthy  of  implicit  confidence ; 
and  as  the  journey  requires  six  or  seven  days,  it  be- 
came a  thing  of  some  consequence  to  secure  a  good 
man.     We  at  length  engaged  with Populus,  a 


426  GENEVA. 

person  recommendecl  to  us  by  Sismondi,  to  take  us 
to  Milan  for  144  francs  each,  including  dinner,  supper, 
and  lodging.  The  dinner  to  consist  of  four  dishes, 
besides  soup,  fruit,  and  such  wine  as  the  country 
afforded,  but  not  foreign  wine.  The  supper  to  be  the 
same  as  the  dinner.  Three  persons  besides  ourselves 
were  to  be  accommodated  in  the  carriage.  On  con- 
cluding the  bargain,  I  was  surprised  at  his  putting  into 
my  hand,  several  crowns  in  silver;  but  this,  I  learned, 
was  the  mode  of  sealing  an  agreement.  He  who  is 
to  perform  the  service,  deposits  with  the  other  party, 
a  sum  which  is  to  be  the  pledge  of  his  fidelity.  It  is 
<'alled  the  "  arrhe,"  and  is  to  be  returned  when  the 
service  is  over. 

Sismondi  called  at  our  room  to-day,  and  in  the 
course  of  conversation,  gave  us  much  information  re- 
lative to  the  laws  of  Switzerland,  and  the  political 
condition  of  the  country.  The  trial  by  jury,  (as  he 
stated,)  is  but  partially  adopted.  In  France  it  is  not 
known  in  civil  cases.  The  judges  are  numerous, 
their  salaries  low  ;  and  obsequiousness  to  power  is  but 
too  manifest  in  their  decisions.  The  government  of 
Switzerland,  is  highly  aristocratical ;  and  its  measures, 
at  least  in  some  of  the  cantons,  are  more  arbitrary 
than  under  the  former  cantonal  government,  prior  to 
the  revolution.  In  the  ancient  aristocracy,  there  was 
a  great  deal  of  feeling  for  the  people ;  but  at  present 
it  is  much  the  reverse ;  the  councils  doing  all  they 
can  to  strengthen  their  own  power.  The  number  of 
paupers  has  greatly  increased,  in  consequence  of  the 
embarrassments  of  trade,  arising  from  the  regulations 
of  France.  Taxes  are  no  where  resorted  to  in  this 
country  for  their  support,  but  funds  are  voluntarily 


GENEVA.  427 

raised,  and  hospitals  or  alms-houses  maintained  for 
that  purpose. 

We  called  to  see  L.  S*****,  of  New- York,  who  re- 
mains temporarily  at  Geneva.  He  had  gone  to  Berne, 
but  his  wife  who  is  a  New-York  lady,  received  us 
very  kindly,  and  induced  us  to  stay  to  tea.  We  found 
there  a  Scotch  lady,  who,  it  appeared,  was  to  be  one 
of  our  companions  to  Milan.  We  discovered  from 
her  conversation,  that  she  possessed  an  improved 
mind,  and  all  we  could  learn  in  addition  was,  that  she 
had  lived  some  time  in  Switzerland,  and  was  going 
to  Italy  to  spend  the  winter,  and  that  she  had  had 
resolution  enough  to  decide  upon  taking  the  journey 
without  any  particular  companion. 

In  preparing  to  leave  Geneva  for  the  third  and  last 
time,  I  must  acknowledge  that  I  have  been  much 
gratified  with  the  opportunities  I  have  had  of  beco- 
ming acquainted  with  a  place  so  remarkable  for  its 
distinction  in  letters,  science  and  politics,  and  for  a 
population  so  intelligent  and  agreeable.  To  Profess- 
or Pictet  and  his  interesting  family,  I  have  been  par- 
ticularly indebted  for  many  civilities.  Professor  P. 
is  a  truly  estimable  character.  Few  individuals  in 
Geneva,  or  in  Switzerland,  enjoy  a  higher  reputa- 
tion, for  qualities  which  add  dignity  to  human  na- 
ture. He  has  long  been  the  editor,  (in  conjunc- 
tion with  his  brother,)  of  a  monthly  journal  of  sci- 
ence, which  has  done  much  to  spread  on  both  sides 
of  the  Alps,  a  taste  for  learning  and  the  useful  arts. 
It  was  continued  twenty  years  under  the  title  of 
"  Bibliotheque  Britannique,*'  and  extended  during 
that  time  to  144  volumes.  Its  particular  object  was 
to  diffuse,  throughout  that  part  of  the  European  con^ 


428  GENEVA. 

tincnt,  a  knowledge  of  the  progress  and  actual  state 
of  British  literature  and  science,  but  not  unconnect- 
ed with  domestic  learning.  The  title  was  consid- 
ered, at  length,  to  be  too  exclusive,  and  it  is  now 
in  the  fourth  year  of  a  new  series  under  the  title 
of  '-'•  Bibliotheque  UniverscV  It  is  conducted  with  a 
fidelity  and  ability,  very  creditable  to  the  editors, 
and  to  the  country. 

Although  the  appearance  of  Geneva  may  disap- 
point a  stranger,  in  consequence  of  the  uncouth  form 
and  decaying  aspect  of  many  of  the  houses,  and  the 
irregularity  of  the  streets,  it  will  be  acknowledged  by 
all  to  be  almost  without  a  rival,  in  picturesque  beauty 
of  situation.  Standing  at  the  western  extremity  of 
one  of  the  finest  lakes  in  the  world,  and  on  a  surface 
very  much  diversified  in  point  of  elevation,  it  affords 
an  interesting  variety  of  appearances  in  different 
places. 

The  Rhone  issues  from  the  lake  in  an  impetuous 
torrent.  The  waters  are  extremely  limpid  and  of  a 
remarkably  green  colour.  The  greater  part  of  the 
town  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  The  rapidity 
of  the  current  serves  various  important  purposes  of 
manufacture,  and  pumps  up  the  water  likewise  which 
supplies  the  fountains  of  the  city.  From  the  high- 
est part  of  the  town,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
street,  very  properly  called  "  Rue  de  Beauregard,"  a 
prospect  is  open,  which  in  good  weather  is  truly  en- 
chanting. On  the  west  is  a  most  delightful  cham- 
paign, luxuriant  in  cultivation,  interspersed  with  seats, 
farm-houses  and  villages.  In  the  northern  horizon  is 
the  Jura,  forming  a  long  and  even  line  of  misty  eleva- 
tion ;  at  one's  feet  is  the  city  and  the  gushing  waters  of 


GENEVA.  429 

the  Rhone.  On  the  northeast,  the  lake  spreads  its  pla- 
cid bosom,  ornamented  on  its  northern  border  with  the 
populous  villages  of  Copet,  Nyon  and  Rolle,  all  situa- 
ted in  a  region  of  the  highest  cultivation.  On  the  south- 
east and  south  the  eye  wanders  in  amazement  among 
the  mountains  of  Savoy,  rising  in  tumultuous  succes- 
sion, with  wild  and  inexpressible  grandeur.  Some  of 
these  mountains  are  almost  always  covered  with  snow, 
and  among  them  in  a  clear  day  Mount  Blanc  is  dis- 
tinctly perceived,  giving,  to  this  unparalleled  land- 
scape a  finish  of  the  greatest  sublimity. 

Geneva  is  remarkable  for  the  ingenuity  and  delica- 
cy of  its  fabrics,  more  especially  of  those  connected 
with  watch  machinery.  1  was  surprised  to  find  that 
some  of  the  richest  shops  are  kept  in  the  upper  rooms 
of  the  houses.  The  most  noted  collection  of  watches 
and  jewelry  must  be  sought  for  by  passing  through 
a  dark  court,  and  mounting  a  narrow  stair-case  to  a 
room  in  the  fourth  story.  Whether  this  proceeds 
from  considerations  of  safety,  or  from  convenience  to 
the  dealers,  I  cannot  say,  but  a  shop  in  such  a  situa- 
tion in  one  of  our  cities,  would  stand  a  poor  chance 
of  gaining  customers. 

The  wonderful  talent  of  these  mechanicians  is  ad- 
mirably displayed  in  the  little  automaton  boxes  that 
are  occasionally  exposed  for  sale.  In  one  of  the 
shops  we  were  shown  a  gold  box  of  the  size  of  a 
snuff  box,  which  being  wound  up  and  placed  on  the 
table,  a  small  drawer  was  opened,  at  the  bottom,  con- 
taining a  number  of  little  counters,  each  marked  with 
a  particular  figure.  Into  a  cavity  in  the  drawer,  we 
were  desired  to  put  any  one  of  the  counters  we 
chose,  which  being  done  the  drawer  was  shut.     On 

Vol.  1.  36 


l.JO  GENEVA. 

touching  a  spring  the  hd  of  the  box  flew  open,  and 
up  rose  a  magician,  in  tlie  figure  of  an  old  man  witli 
a  grave  aspect  and  a  long  beard,  and  holding  a  rod 
in  his  hand.  He  stood  before  a  tree  and  after  making 
a  number  of  grave  motions  with  his  head  and  stick,  he 
at  length  turned  round,  and  pointed  with  his  rod  to  an 
opening  in  the  branches  of  the  tree,  where  was  seen 
the  precise  number  of  the  counter  placed  in  the  box. 
These  counters  appeared  to  differ  in  no  respect  from 
each  other,  except  in  the  figures  engraved  upon  them; 
and  yet  the  magician  would  raise  the  same  number 
precisely,  in  the  tree.  One  of  the  counters  was  a  blank. 
When  this  was  put  into  the  drawer,  the  figure,  after 
its  usual  incantations,  pointed  to  the  tree,  but  finding 
nothing  there,  he  appeared  thoughtful,  recommenced 
his  mancDUvres,  and  again  finding  nothing  but  a  blank, 
he  shook  his  head  as  if  in  despair,  and  ceased  his 
operations.  I  have  seen  a  box  of  a  similar  size,  still 
more  curious.  The  spring  being  touched,  the  lid 
flew  open,  and  a  very  small  bird  of  beautiful  plum- 
age, perched  itself  on  a  post,  hopped  round,  flutter- 
ed its  wings,  opened  its  bill,  sang  several  notes — then 
folding  its  wings,  it  turned  on  its  side,  sunk  quietly 
into  the  box  and  the  lid  closed. 

Ebel  in  his  excellent  "  Manuel  du  Voyageur  en 
Suisse,"  states  that  "  Droz,  the  father  of  the  present 
house  of  that  name  at  Chaux-de-Fond,  being  at  Ma- 
drid,he  exhibitedbefore  the  king  a  clock,  on  which  was 
seen  a  negro,  a  dog,  and  a  shepherd.  When  the  clock 
struck,  the  shepherd  played  six  tunes  on  his  flute,  and 
the  dog  approached  and  fawned  upon  him.  The  king 
was  delighted.  Tiie  gentleness  of  my  dog,  said  Droz, 
is  his  least  merit.    Let  your  majesty  touch  one  of  the 


GENEVA.  431 

apples  which  you  see  in  the  shepherd's  baske^t,  and 
you  will  admire  the  fidelity  of  this  animal.  The  king 
took  an  apple,  and  the  dog  flew  at  his  hand  and 
barked  so  loud,  that  the  king's  dog,  which  was  in  the 
room,  began  also  to  bark.  At  this  the  courtiers  not 
doubting  that  it  was  an  aflTair  of  witchcraft,  hastily 
left  the  room,  crossing  themselves  as  they  went  out. 
The  Minister  of  Marine  was  the  only  one  that  ven- 
tured to  stay.  The  king  having  desired  him  to  ask 
the  negro  what  o'clock  it  was,  the  Minister  obeyed, 
but  he  obtained  no  reply.  Droz  then  observed,  that 
the  negro  had  not  yet  learned  Spanish,  upon  which 
the  Minister  repeated  the  question  in  French,  and 
the  black  immediately  answered  him.  At  this  new 
prodigy  the  firmness  of  the  Minister  also  forsook  him, 
and  he  retreated  precipitately,  declaring  that  it  must 
be  the  work  of  the  devil.  The  son  of  Droz,  was,  at 
the  age  of  twenty-one,  as  great  a  mechanician  as  his 
father." 

The  English  or  American  traveller,  will  find  in 
Geneva,  a  state  of  society  differing  much  less  from 
that  of  his  own  country,  than  in  Paris,  or  other  cities 
of  France.  The  practice  of  drinking  tea  and  of  in- 
viting company  to  tea,  is  practised  here.  Whether  it 
was  in  connexion  with  this  very  rational  and  exhili- 
rating  custom,  that  the  terms  comfort  and  comfortable 
have  been  adopted  into  the  language,  I  know  not,  but 
these  terms  are  now  pretty  common  in  the  social 
parlance  of  Geneva. 

14th.  At  seven,  our  carriage  being  in  readiness, 
we  set  out  from.  Geneva  with  three  horses  and  a  com- 
pany of  six  persons  besides  the  postillion.  In  addition 
to  the  lady  and  ourselves,  two  officers  appeared  and 


432  TIIONON. 

took  their  seats.     The  morning  was  foggy,  and  seem- 
ed rather  portentous  of   bad  weather ;  but  toward 
noon,  the  mountains  began  to  appear,  and  the  Alps  to 
exhibit  their  snowy  eminences  on   our    right.     The 
road  lay  near  the  lake.     The  country  was  generally 
well    cultivated,    the  vine  being  the  staple  growth. 
The  people  were  busy  with  the  vintage.     The  villa- 
ges through  which  we  passed,  had  a  coarse,  crowded, 
and  very  unpleasant  appearance,  altogether  inferior  to 
those  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake.     The  soil  on  this 
side  is  less  fertile,  and  the  climate  not  quite  so  friend- 
ly ;  but  it  is  to  be  apprehended  that  the  difiference,  so 
observable  in  the  comforts  of  the  people,  is  very  much 
owing  to  the  government  and  the   religion, — Sardi- 
nian and  Catholic.     We  dined  at  Thonon,  the  former 
capital  of  Chablais,  a  considerable  place,  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  lake.     We  walked   to  the  hospital,  a 
spacious  building  with  a  court  inside,  and  a  large 
staircase,  entries,  suite  of  rooms,  &c.     It  was  former- 
ly a  convent  of  monks.     There  were  six  other  con- 
vents in  this  town,  prior  to  the  revolution,  but  at  that 
period,  the  estates  were  confiscated  and  the  proper- 
ty sold.     The  hospital  contained  but  few  patients, 
and  these  all  poor  and  badly  accommodated.     Near 
Thonon,  on   the  lake,  is  a  celebrated  mansion  and 
grounds  called  Ripaille,  once  the  residence  of  Pope 
Felix  v.,  who  resigned  his  supremacy,  and  retired 
thither  to  devote  himself  more  uninterruptedly — not 
to  religion,  but  to  licentious  gratifications.     From  this 
circumstance  is  derived,  it  is  said,  the  French  verb 
faire  ripaille^   (to   banquet.)     The   estate  was  bought 
by  its  present  owner,  for  400,000   francs ;  but  it  is 
now  supposed  to  be  worth  double  that  sum. 


LE  VALAIS.  433 

Vivian  is  a  village  of  some  extent,  on  the  borders 
of  the  lake.     We  passed  hastily  through  it,  and  ar- 
rived at  St.  Gingoulph,  near  the  head  of  the  lake, 
some  time  after  the  full  moon  had  risen.     The  road, 
worked  with  vast  labour  on  the  margin  of  the  water, 
was  in  the  best  order.  The  moon,  as  it  rose  in  "  cloud- 
less majesty"  directly  before  us,  exhibited  a  scene  tru- 
ly delightful,     its  silver  beam  was  reflected  with  supe- 
rior brightness,   by   the   clear   unruffled    surface   of 
the  water;  castle  Chillon,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
over  which  the  moon  ascended,  was  in  view,  and  also 
the  towns  of  Vevey  and  Montreux,  on  the  other  side. 
It  was  a  picture  worthy  of  the  imagination  of  a  poet, 
and  we  could    not   wonder   that  Byron   had    made 
the    border   of  this  lake    his    residence.      Our    fe- 
male   companion,    who    had  resided  a  year  at  Ve- 
vey, informed    us    that  he  once    knocked    up  some 
boatmen  at  that  place,    in   the    night,    and    engag- 
ed them,  for  a  handsome  sum,  to  take  him  out  on 
the   lake    in   a   high   storm.     The   inn    at   St.  Gin- 
goulph,   was  formerly  a  castle.     The  host  and  the 
maids  were  very  attentive ;  and  furnished  us  with  a 
good  supper  and  good  beds. 

15th.  Set  off  at  six.  A  previous  cup  of  coffee  had 
disposed  us  to  enjoy  whatever  the  road  afforded  that 
was  interesting  or  curious.  We  took  leave  of  Savoy 
at  the  inn,  and  entered  Le  Valais,  one  of  the  Swiss 
cantons.  It  comprehends  the  valley  through  which 
the  Rhone  flows  from  its  source  in  the  Alps,  to  its 
junction  with  the  lake  of  Geneva,  together  with 
a  number  of  lateral  valleys,  which  open  into  it.  Our 
road  lay  near  the  Rhone,  and  during  most  of  the  day, 
immediately  on  its  bank.     The  river,  at  its  embou- 

36* 


431  ST.    MAURICE. 

chure  into  the  lake,  is  nearly  as  wide  as  at  its  egress 
at  Geneva,  but  not  so  rapid. 

At  St.  Maurice,  we  stopped  to  dine,  and  from  all  we 
saw  of  the  inn,  and  its  attendants,  we  united  in  the 
very  favourable  recommendation,  given  it  by  Sir  H. 
Davy  and  his  lady,  which  we  found  in  the  traveller's 
book.  Nearly  all  the  inns  I  have  been  at,  on  the  con- 
tinent, keep  a  book,  in  which  every  lodger  is  request- 
ed to  inscribe  his  name,  his  profession,  his  country, 
and,  in  most  cases,  his  age,  and  his  motives  in  travel- 
ling; the  place  he  comes  from,  and  that  to  which  he 
is  bound.  You  will  perceive  from  this,  that  the  cus- 
tom of  pumping  travellers,  in  order  to  obtain  their 
secrets,  and  to  satisfy  curiosity,  is  not  confined  to  our 
side  of  the  Atlantic,  though  foreigners  have  endea- 
voured to  stigmatise  us,  on  account  of  the  disposition 
which  they  ascribe  to  us,  of  asking  questions.  The 
difference  is,  that  in  America,  the  traveller  gives  this 
information,  if  he  chooses,  to  those  who  modestly  ask 
for  it ;  and  here,  he  is,  in  some  measure,  compelled  to 
publish  it  to  the  world,  by  writing  it  in  a  book. 

At  St.  Maurice  is  a  bridge  over  the  Rhone,  said  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Romans.  While  dinner  was 
preparing,  we  took  a  guide,  (a  girl  of  twelve  or  thir- 
teen) and  ascended  to  a  great  height,  to  view  the 
dwelling  of  a  hermit.  His  habitation  is  placed  upon 
a  narrow  spot,  upon  the  side  of  a  mountain,  the  face  of 
which  is  a  solid,  and  almost  perpendicular  rock.  A 
pathway  has  been  cut  in  the  rock,  with  great  labour, 
in  a  winding  direction,  to  the  hermitage.  A  chapel 
has  been  also  erected  on  the  dizzy  height,  to  which 
the  monks,  and  the  good  Catholics  below,  clamber  up 
pvery  morning,  to  join  the  hermit  in  devotion.     The 


ST.    MAURICE.  435 

old  man  lives  upon  the  charity  of  his  neighbours,  but 
often  has  to  descend  to  the  village  to  get  his  dinner. 
To  our  regret,  he  was  not  at  home,  and  both  his  gate 
and  his  chapel  were  locked.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
village  are  all  Catholics.  The  influence  of  supersti- 
tion among  them,  was  evident,  from  a  simple  story 
of  our  pleasant  and  communicative  little  guide.  A 
child,  she  said,  once  fell  from  near  the  chapel,  to  the 
bottom  of  the  precipice  below.  Its  attendants,  in  the 
utmost  distress,  hastened  down  the  circuitous  path,  to 
take  up  its  lifeless  body,  and  convey  it  home.  Arri- 
ved at  the  spot,  they  found  the  child  sporting  on  the 
grass,  with  a  nosegay  of  flowers,  which  it  had  just 
been  gathering  on  the  plain,  not  having  received  the 
least  mark  or  injury  from  the  fall.  It  was  then  made 
known  to  them,  that  the  holy  virgin  had  interposed, 
and  caught  the  child  in  her  arms,  and  saved  it  harm- 
less. In  commemoration  of  the  event,  a  picture  ha& 
been  placed  in  the  chapel,  descriptive  of  the  falling 
child,  in  the  arms  of  the  virgin. 

The  valley,  at  this  place,  is  very  much  contracted, 
by  the  approach  of  two  mountains.  La  Dent  de  la  Morcle, 
and  La  Dent  du  Midi.  It  is  said  to  have  been  in,  or  near 
this  spot,  that  the  Theban  legion,  of  6000  men,  were 
massacred  by  order  of  the  Emperor  Maximinus.  for  re- 
fusing to  pursue  and  destroy  a  body  of  people,  whom 
they  believed  to  be  innocent  and  virtuous.  The  sol- 
diers of  this  legion,  had  been  converted  to  Christiani- 
ty, in  Asia,  and  were  baptised  into  that  faith,  by  Zab- 
da.  Bishop  of  Jerusalem.  On  arriving  at  St.  Maurice, 
(the  ancient  Agaunum,)  and  learning  that  they  were 
destined  to  pursue  Christians,  they  refused  to  obey. 
The  emperor,  then  at  Martigny,  enraged  at  this  re- 


436  MARTIGNY. 

sistance,  ordered  the  legion  to  be  decimated.  This 
was  done,  a  first  and  a  second  time,  without  changing 
their  purpose.  "  We  are,"  said  they  to  the  emperor, 
'^  thj  soldiers,  but  we  respect  God,  more  than  thee. 
He  has  given  us  life,  and  from  thee  we  onlj  receive  the 
pay  of  our  services.  We  can  fight  our  enemies,  but 
we  will  not  imbrue  our  hands  with  the  blood  of  virtu- 
ous men.  If  thou  dost  not  require  us  to  commit  so 
great  a  crime,  we  are  ready  to  obey  thee,  as  we  have 
hitherto  faithfully  done ;  but  we  are  Christians,  and 
cannot  destroy  our  brethren."  This  noble  and  mag- 
nanimous reply,  made  in  presence  of  their  bleeding 
and  lifeless  companions,  only  increased  the  rage  of 
the  tyrant;  he  ordered  them  to  be  surrounded  by  his 
pagan  army,  and  all  put  to  death. 

The  ride,  this  afternoon,  was  very  interesting,  from 
the  serenity  of  the  weather,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery  around  us;  the  valley,  on  each  side,  being 
bounded  by  mountains,  whose  summits  were  occa- 
sionally clothed  with  firs,  which  glittered  in  the  sun 
like  trees  of  gold  ;  while,  behind  them,  were  pointed 
eminences  of  the  snowy  Alps.  The  border  of  the 
Rhone,  in  this  part  of  the  valley,  is  much  encumbered 
with  rushes,  and  the  agriculture  must  necessarily  be 
very  scanty.  Between  St.  Maurice  and  Martigny,  is 
a  remarkable  cascade,  well  known  by  the  modest  name 
of  Pissevache.  It  is  formed  by  the  little  river  Salanche, 
which  pitches  over  a  mountain  precipice,  and  falls 
nearly  three  hundred  feet,  breaking  against  the  shel- 
ving side  of  the  mountain,  and  scattering  its  spray  to 
a  great  extent. 

About  four,  we  arrived  at  Martigny,  where  we  were 
to  remain  till  morning.     We  walked  up  the  valley,  be*- 


MARTIGNY.  437 

fore  the  sun  went  down,  to  observe  more  fully  the 
great  devastation,  and  the  heavy  suffering,  which  this 
place  sustained,  on  the  twenty-first  of  June  last.  This 
event,  which  has  been  published  throughout  Europe, 
is  brieiiy  as  follows  : — A  gorge,  or  valley  of  a  moun- 
tain, near  St.  Bernard,  had  become  closed,  or  dam- 
med by  ice,  so  as  to  form  an  extensive  lake.  It  was 
foreseen,  that  the  pressure  of  the  water,  in  this  lake, 
must, ere  long,  break  its  barrier,  and  rush  down  the  val- 
ley, with  destructive  force.  But,  among  the  Catholics  of 
Switzerland,  though  events  of  this  kind  are  anticipa- 
ted, they  prefer,  very  often,  to  repose  in  the  protection 
of  a  favourite  saint,  rather  than  to  save  themselves  by 
precautionary  measures.  Considerable  efforts  were 
made,  however,  to  prevent  the  disaster,  by  endeavour- 
ing to  perforate  the  icy  bank,  near  the  bottom,  and 
allow  the  water  gradually  to  pass  off;  but  about  half 
past  three  in  the  afternoon,  the  brittle  mound  gave 
way,  and  the  body  of  the  lake,  bearing  away  with  ir- 
resistible fury,  rocks,  trees,  houses,  cattle,  &c.  arrived 
at  Martigny  at  six;  destroyed  eighty  buildings,  and 
killed,  at  least  thirty-four  persons ;  filled  the  lower 
stories  of  the  town,  with  water  and  mud,  and  piled  up, 
to  an  enormous  height,  wood,  trees,  and  rocks,  filling 
the  whole  plain,  with  the  most  frightful  ravages.  It 
required  almost  incredible  labour,  to  clear  the  streets 
of  the  mud  and  rubbish,  so  as  to  render  them  passable. 
Great  quantities  still  remain  in  them,  in  large  heaps. 
A  more  melancholy  aspect  I  never  beheld,  excepting, 
perhaps,  the  remains  of  an  extensive  conflagration. 
A  boy,  who  had  just  returned  from  the  mountain, 
Avith  his  goats,  told  us  he  had  saved  himself,  by  hasti- 
ly climbing  the  mountain.     The  little  fellow  answered 


438  MARTIGNY. 

our  inquiries,  with  singular  naivete  and  distinctness; 
and  findins;  that  we  were  disposed  to  be  friendly,  he 
turned  to  us,  and  said,  "  Auriez  vous  la  complaisance, 
Messieurs,  do  me  donner  quelque  chose  pour  souper." 
It  was  an  appeal  we  could  not  resist. 

An  incident  occurred,  during  the  progress  of  this 
mighty  torrent,  which  adds  another  to  the  many  proofs 
of  the  wonderful  nature  of  animal  sagacity.  A  gen- 
tleman, mounted  on  a  mule,  was  descending  the  valley, 
towards  Martigny,  unsuspicious  of  danger.  Suddenly 
the  animal  pricked  up  its  ears,  and  made  an  eflfort  to 
leave  the  road.  The  rider,  neither  seeing  nor  hearing 
any  thing  that  should  occasion  this  freak,  forced  the 
creature  back  into  the  path.  It  still  manifested  unea- 
siness, and,  in  a  few  minutes  after,  in  spite  of  resist- 
ance, scrambled,  with  all  its  might,  up  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  carrying  its  unwilling  rider  along  with  it. 
But  in  a  minute  after,  the  roaring  of  the  torrent  was 
heard,  and  the  devastating  flood  passed,  with  its  aw- 
ful rapidity,  leaving  the  terrified  traveller  absorbed 
in  the  feelings  of  astonishment  and  gratitude. 

In  the  evening,  we  had  the  company  of  an  English 
gentleman  and  his  wife,  who  had  resided  some  time  at 
Vevey.  They  were  about  to  venture  on  a  journey  to 
Chamouny,  over  the  Col  de  Balm — a  perilous  under- 
taking, at  this  late  season.  They  mentioned  to  us,  the 
fact,  that  two  or  three  English  ladies,  one  of  them  only 
fourteen,  had  lately  performed  a  pedestrian  tour  over 
the  Simplon,  St.  Bernard,  and  other  parts  oi  the  Alps, 
to  the  distance  of  400  miles,  hiring  people,  from  place 
to  place,  to  carry  their  luggage.  It  was  a  tour  of  fe- 
male curiosity  and  heroism.  They  had  one  man  to 
bear  them  company. 


LE  VALAIS.  439 

16th.  Off  at  5.  The  Valais  improved  as  we  ad- 
vanced. The  grape  began  to  appear  again  on  the 
southern  aspect  of  the  mountains,  and  Indian  corn  is 
one  of  the  staples  of  this  remarkable  region.  We 
passed  several  hamlets,  some  of  them  tolerably  neat. 
The  mountains  were  exceedingly  picturesque,  espe- 
cially where  the  goats  appeared  browsing  among  the 
rocks,  near  the  summits. 

The  farm  houses  in  this  canton,  and  indeed  in  other 
parts  of  Switzerland,  have  a  very  plain  and  coarse 
appearance.  The  roof  projects  so  far  beyond  the 
walls  of  the  building  as  to  form  a  gallery,  or  shed,  un- 
der which  the  wood,  for  winter  fuel,  is  piled  up.  The 
roof  itself  consists  of  thin  planks,  kept  down  by  large 
stones.  The  barns  are  erected  upon  posts,  on  the 
top  of  which  large  flat  stones  are  placed,  forming  a 
projection,  which  prevents  the  rats  from  gaining  ad- 
mission. 

The  goitre  occurs  very  often ;  and  in  almost  every 
village  cretins  are  to  be  seen.  These  poor  creatures 
are  uniformly  more  or  less  idiotic.  They  place  them- 
selves in  the  sun,  before  the  doors  of  the  cottages,  in 
a  state  of  stupid  inaction,  and  if  spoken  to,  their  fea- 
tures are  contorted,  into  an  unmeaning  grimace,  which 
shocks  one's  feelings ;  and,  if  they  attempt  any  reply, 
it  is  by  an  inarticulate  and  scarcely  human  sound. 

The  immediate  cause  of  such  a  frequent  occurrence 
of  goitre  and  cretinism,  in  these  Alpine  valleys,  is  a 
question,  which  still  admits,  I  believe,  only  of  conjec- 
tural solution.  Saussure,  who  entered  elaborately  in- 
to the  subject,  assigns  the  heat  of  the  valleys,  and  the 
stagnation  of  the  air  in  them,  as  the  principal  cause : 
and  it  is  alleged,  that  the  number  of  cretins  has  sen- 


440  sioN. 

sibly  diminished,  since  greater  precaution  has  been 
taken,  by  persons  in  easy  circumstances,  to  remove 
their  wives  to  the  mountains,  prior  to  the  birth  of  their 
children,  and  to  rear  them  there,  until  they  are  ten  or 
twelve  years  ot  age. 

We  arrived  at  Sion,  the  capital  of  Le  Valais,  about 
eleven,  and  remained  there  to  dinner.  The  inn  was 
large  and  commodious.  This  is  a  walled  town,  flanked 
with  towers.  Upon  a  high  hill,  within  its  limits,  are 
the  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle,  and  a  convent.  The 
houses  are  very  high,  and  some  of  them  of  respectable 
appearance ;  the  population  is  about  3,000.  We  went 
through  the  principal  church,  the  doors  of  which  were 
open,  and  the  lamps  of  the  altar  burning,  though  no 
devotee  was  there  to  disturb  our  curiosity.  Orna- 
ments were  distributed  throughout  the  whole  interior, 
in  such  profusion,  as  to  give  it  more  the  appearance 
of  a  baby-house,  than  a  place  dedicated  to  serious  re- 
flection. We  inquired  for  the  hospital,  and  were  di- 
rected to  a  large  building,  with  an  agreeable  and  ra- 
ther imposing  exterior.  We  entered  it,  and  soon 
found,  that  the  outside  was  the  best  of  the  establish- 
ment. Much  of  the  interior  was  as  dirty  as  a  stable. 
It  contained  about  twenty  poor  people,  two  of  whom 
were  sick.  The  house  is  managed  by  seven  sisters ; 
one  of  w^hom  very  complaisantly  conducted  us  through 
the  rooms,  though  the  want  of  cleanliness  was  so  dis- 
creditable to  the  care  and  taste  of  the  managers. 
Most  of  the  patients  were  miserable  looking  cretins, 
deformed,  yet  contented  and  smiling,  though  living  in 
dark  and  filthy  holes,  and  eating  only  cabbage  soup 
for  dinner.  In  the  room  of  the  female  cretins  a  very 
young  child  lay  on  a  coarse  bed.     The  sister  pointed 


) 

LE  VALAIS.  441 

out  the  mother  to  me,  and,  with  the  utmost  simplicity, 
remarked,  "  On  fait  beaucoup  d'enfans  ici !"  Such  an 
evidence  of  the  absence  of  moral  government,  in  the 
chief  institution  of  the  capital  of  this  canton,  needs  no 
comment. 

The  German  language  is  chiefly  spoken  in  Sion ; 
many  of  the  inhabitants  understand  no  French.  The 
Catholic  religion  is  alone  professed.  I  should  con- 
clude, from  appearances  in  several  parts  of  Switzer- 
land, that  there  is  a  disinclination  in  the  two  sects  to 
live  in  the  same  town. 

The  road  from  Sion  bordered  the  rapid  current  of 
the  Rhone,  and  often,  between  the  rocky  cliffs  of  the 
mountain  and  the  brink  of  the  river,  there  was  but 
just  sufficient  space  for  the  carriage  to  pass.  The 
day  rapidly  declined,  as  we  skirted  the  mountains, 
sometimes  on  one  side  of  the  river,  and  then  on  the 
other.  Their  shadows  covered  us  long  before  the 
sun  went  down,  but  the  splendour  of  the  moon,  in  a 
cloudless  night,  reflected  now  by  the  snows  of  the 
Simplon,  compensated  for  the  absence  of  day.  It 
was  rather  late  before  we  entered  the  village  of 
Turtemagne,  all  in  good  spirits,  from  the  fineness  of 
the  weather,  and  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the 
mountain  scenery.  A  dish  of  coffee,  at  a  fireside,  (for 
the  weather  has  been  so  cool,  for  several  days,  as  to 
make  a  little  blaze  of  an  evening  comfortable)  stimu- 
lated to  conversation  our  little  party,  and  made  us 
better  acquainted.  Our  female  passenger  proves  to 
be  a  well  read  and  sensible  person,  disposed  to  con- 
verse, and  contributing  much  to  our  entertainment; 
but  the  officers  add  more  to  the  weight  of  the  carriage 
draught,  than  to  its  stock  of  moveable  intellect.   One 

Vor.  I.  37 


^142  LE  VALAig. 

of  them  is  an  Italian,  about  twenty-three  or  twenty- 
five,  with  as  much  good  nature  as  I  ever  saw  under 
a  high  military  hat.  His  seat  was  altogether  on  the 
outside,  in  the  cabriolet.  The  other  conversed  with 
difficulty,  on  account  of  a  wound  he  had  received 
in  the  mouth.  Of  ray  two  particular  companions,  I 
need  say  no  more,  than  that  I  am  highly  pleased  with, 
and  attached  to  them  both.  We  were  waited  upon, 
at  this  inn,  by  two  of  the  daughters  of  the  landlady, 
one  of  whom  spoke  both  German  and  French. 

17th.  At  half  past  two  we  were  called  up,  and 
after  taking  a  slight  repast,  resumed  our  journey. 
The  queen  of  night,  now  in  the  western  part  of  the 
sky,  beamed  with  a  sweet  effulgence,  and  the  air, 
though  cool,  was  pleasant.  The  gradual  declension 
of  the  moon,  and  the  kindling  light  of  day,  spreading 
over  a  hemisphere  without  a  cloud,  opening  first  upon 
the  tops  of  the  mountains,  and  extending  by  refrac- 
tion into  the  valley,  expelling  the  deep  gloom  of  the 
shadows  of  the  lofty  eminences  around  us,  and  exhi- 
biting the  narrow  but  level  and  safe  road  we  were 
hastening  over,  infused  something  of  animation  and 
joy  into  our  little  company;  and  something,  I  would 
hope,  of  gratitude  to  the  Author  of  the  stupendous 
works  around  us,  for  the  blessings  of  health  and  fine 
weather. 

At  Glis  we  availed  ourselves  of  a  short  stop  of  the 
coach,  to  look  into  a  large  church,  the  door  of  which 
was  open,  but  no  person  within,  the  morning  mass 
being  over.  It  was  gaily  decorated.  An  image  of  the 
Virgin  was  dressed  with  trinkets  of  tin,  beads,  glass, 
(fcc,  in  a  manner,  one  would  think,  more  likely  to 
excite  notions  of  a  ball  room,  or  a  village  feast,  than. 


LE  VALAIS.  44^ 

the  soberness  of  religious  worship.  This  church  was 
erected  by  George  de  Supersax,  a  native  of  Glis.  In 
a  picture  in  one  of  the  chapels,  he  is  represented  with 
his  wife,  and  their  twelve  sons  and  eleven  daughters ; 
to  which  is  subjoined  the  following  inscription. 

En  I'honneur  de  Sainte  Anne, 

George  de  Supersax,  soldat, 

A  fond^  cette  chapelle  I'an  de  grace  1519, 

A  6l€v^  un  autel,  et  Pa  enrichi 
En  reconnaissance  des  vingt-trois  enfans 
Que  sone  Spouse  Marguerite  lui  a  donnes. 

In  walking  round  the  yard,  we  saw  and  entered  a 
building,  the  interior  of  which  surprised  us.  It  was 
a  charnel  house  containing  many  thousands  of  human 
skulls  and  other  bones,  piled  up  with  great  care,  in 
regular  tiers  along  the  walls.  A  crucifix  with  a  burn- 
ing lamp  was  at  the  remote  end  of  the  chamber, 
(which  was  partly  subterranean,)  and  a  few  old 
benches  at  some  distance  from  it,  for  the  convenience 
of  the  pious  people  of  the  village,  who  might  be  in- 
clined to  come  in,  and  pray  for  the  souls  of  those 
who  had  once  inhabited  the  empty  receptacles  around 
them.  Whether  these  were  the  bones  of  persons 
slain  in  battle,  or  collected  gradually  from  the  graves 
of  the  churchyard,  we  were  not  informed ;  but  it  is 
more  than  probable  that  they  are  the  remains  of  those 
of  the  Valaisans,  that  lost  their  lives  in  the  sangui- 
nary struggle  with  the  French  republican  army  in 
1798  and  1799.  The  inhabitants  of  the  upper  valley, 
made  a  most  formidable  resistance  against  the  army 
of  the  Directory,  by  their  courage  and  their  know- 
ledge of  the  country,  but  they  were  overpowered  by 
Dumbers  and  discipline,  and  had  to  endure  the  most 


444  LE  V  ALA  IS. 

acvere  sufferings,  from  those  pretended  friends  of  li- 
berty and  the  rights  of  man. 

At  Brieg,  a  village  of  considerable  size,  and  not  far 
from  Glis,  we  stopped  to  take  a  fresh  recruit  of  horses, 
in  order  to  ascend  the  Simplon.  This  village  is  situ- 
ated, not  far  from  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  valley 
of  the  Rhone,  and  of  the  source  of  that  river.  The 
Valais  is  here  populous,  and  has  been  very  long  the 
abode  of  industry,  agriculture,  and  the  arts.  The 
influx  of  strangers,  since  the  completion  of  the  Sim- 
plon road,  has  relieved  the  country  of  much  of  its 
poverty,  and  has  nearly,  if  not  entirely,  put  an  end  to 
the  unhappy  feuds  which  prevailed  between  the  up- 
per and  lower  Valais.  It  was  the  day  of  a  public 
fair,  and  in  walking  through  it,  we  were  amused  with 
the  difference  discoverable  in  the  shape  of  the  vari- 
ous articles  of  metal  and  wood  exposed  for  sale,  from 
those  we  were  accustomed  to. 

We  left  Brieg  at  half  past  eight  with  five  fresh 
horses,  and  two  postillions,  our  voiturier  remaining  to 
bring  on  his  own  two,  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  At 
half  a  mile  from  the  village,  we  were  fairly  upon  the 
road  constructed  by  the  order  of  Napoleon,  and  com- 
pleted by  the  joint  labour  of  the  French  and  Italians 
in  1805.  This  road,  so  justly  celebrated  by  the  cha- 
racteristic boldness  which  projected  it,  and  by  the 
surprising  skill  displayed  in  its  execution,  commen- 
ces, strictly  speaking,  at  Glis ;  but  the  care  taken  to 
render  this  passage  of  the  Alps  easy  and  pleasant,  is 
obvious  in  different  places,  throughout  the  whole 
route  from  Geneva.  It  would  be  difficult  to  describe 
the  efTect  produced  upon  the  mind  of  the  traveller, 
who  first  passes  over  this  stupendous  road.     Though 


SIMPLON  ROAD.  445 

it  surmounts  one  of  the  snowy  summits  of  the  Alps, 
its  declivity  no  where  exceeds  two  and  a  half  inches 
in  a  toise  or  six  feet ;  so  that  it  is  unnecessary,  in  any 
place,  to  lock  the  wheels  in  descending.  Its  whole 
extent  across  the  Alpine  ridge,  is  about  fourteen 
leagues  French,  or  forty  miles.  It  is  not  therefore 
the  extent  of  the  road,  nor  is  it  the  height  of  the  Sim- 
plon,  which  renders  this  a  work  of  so  much  merit. 
It  is  the  extreme  declivity  of  the  successive  ridges, 
the  awful  depth  of  the  gorges  over  which  it  passes, 
and  the  prodigious  masses  of  rock  to  be  penetrated 
and  removed,  which  constitute  the  glory  of  an  enter- 
prise, that  must  ever  command  the  plaudits  of  Europe. 

Neat  and  comfortable  stone  houses  are  built  at  suit- 
able intervals  across  the  mountain.  Of  these  there 
are  seven  between  Brieg  and  the  village  of  Simplon, 
and  a  corresponding  number  on  the  Italian  side.  The 
occupant  of  each  of  these  houses  receives  twenty-five 
Louis  d'or  per  annum,  and  is  bound  to  keep  his  fur- 
nace, or  stove  heated  night  and  day  in  cold  weather, 
and  a  room  ready  for  the  reception  of  travellers.  A 
company  at  Brieg,  we  were  informed,  have  underta- 
ken to  keep  the  road  in  perfect  repair  for  ten  years, 
to  clear  the  obstructions  as  they  arise,  from  snow, 
avalanches,  &c.  and  to  leave  it  in  good  order.  For 
this  they  are  to  receive  from  the  government  75,000 
francs. 

Although  the  ground  in  some  places,  as  we  ascend- 
ed, was  frozen,  and  ice  appeared  on  the  side  of  the 
road  at  midday,  yet  the  sun  was  so  clear  and  powerful, 
that  the  exercise  of  walking  rendered  our  surtouts  bur- 
densome. The  views  obtained  from  some  points  of  the 
road,  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  the  town  of  Brieg, 

37  * 


44G  SIMPLON  ROAD. 

with  its  steeple  covered  with  tin,  and  the  opposite 
mountain  with  its  snows  and  glaciers,  "  held  and 
charmed  our  wandering  eyes." 

One  of  the  first  improvements  met  with  in  ascending 
from  Glis,  is  a  handsome  covered  bridge  over  the 
Saltine,  a  river  which  flows  into  the  Rhone.  On  the 
left  of  the  road  soon  after  the  commencement  of  our 
ascent,  we  were  struck  with  the  appearance  of  a  tem- 
ple at  a  great  elevation,  and  a  number  of  little  orato- 
ries at  different  stages  of  the  mountain,  nicely  white- 
washed within,  and  containing  each  a  small  crucifix. 
It  is  thus  that  the  Catholics  associate  bodily  toil  with 
the  exercises  of  devotion,  doubtless  from  the  persua- 
sion that  it  increases  the  merit  of  the  service. 

About  4  p.  M.  we  attained  the  snowy  summit.  The 
road  does  not  pass  over  the  highest  pinnacle,  nor  does 
it  fall  a  great  deal  below  it.  The  snow  lay  upon  the 
ground  nearly  a  mile;  its  depth  in  some  places  was 
about  a  foot.  It  was  a  recent  snow,  for  during  a 
iiew  weeks  in  hot  weather  the  road  is  entirely  dry. 
Near  the  top  is  the  foundation  of  a  handsome  stone 
building,  about  200  feet  long,  intended  as  a  hotel  or 
hospital  for  the  benefit  of  travellers,  and  capable,  if 
completed,  of  accommodating  several  hundreds;  but 
having  reached  the  second  story,  its  progress,  like  that 
of  a  vast  number  of  other  buildings  and  schemes  of 
improvement,  was  arrested  by  the  flames  of  Moscow. 
There  is  at  this  place  an  old  convent  of  monks,  who 
formerly  provided  for  the  way-faring  man  in  his  pas- 
sage of  the  mountain  by  the  ancient  and  perilous 
route.  As  we  began  the  descent,  a  thick  vapour  sud- 
denly gathered  on  the  summit  around  us  and  curled 
its  misty  volumes  over  the  hills  and  along  the  valley 


SIMPLON  ROA».  447 

in  the  most  curious  and  fantastic  forms ;  and  before 
the  sun  set,  we  were  transferred  frofli  the  canopy  of  a 
serene  and  cloudless  sky,  to  the  midst  of  a  heavy  fog. 
These  sudden  transitions  from  a  clear  and  spotless 
azure,  to  the  close  envelope  of  a  dense  cloud,  is  pe- 
culiar to  mountainous  countries,  and  constitutes  one  of 
the  curious  concomitants  of  an  Alpine  journey.  At 
/  the  village  of  Simplon,  an  ancient  little  town  of  about 
twenty  houses,  with  a  church  and  two  inns,  we  found 
pretty  good  accommodations,  in  a  house  which,  some 
years  ago,  had  been  partly  knocked  down  by  an  ava- 
lanche of  snow,  by  which  several  horses  and  two  men 
were  crushed  to  death. 

The  prevailing  rock  on  the  Swiss  side  of  the  Sim- 
plon, is  micaceous  schist.  It  works  very  freely,  re- 
quiring little  more  than  the  wedge  and  the  hammer  to 
reduce  it  to  sizes  very  convenient  for  walks  and  roads. 
Occasionally  it  is  mixed  with  considerable  masses  of 
amorphous  quartz,  either  milky  or  crystalline,  which 
in  some  cases  is  finely  incrusted  with  mica.  Very 
little  granite  is  to  be  seen  on  that  side  of  the  moun- 
tain. The  crumbling  nature  of  this  rock  renders  great 
attention  to  the  road  necessary ;  for  large  masses,  dis- 
engaged either  by  frost  or  incumbent  snow,  fall  from 
the  mountain  above  and  injure  or  obstruct  it. 

18th.  We  left  Simplon  at  six,  in  company  with  Col. 
A****,  and  Capt.  C*****,  two  English  gentlemen,  who 
lodged  at  the  same  inn  with  us,  and  who  had  been 
travelling  for  some  time  on  the  continent.  They  re- 
side in  London.  The  former  is  member  of  Parlia- 
ment for  Berwick  on  Tweed,  a  borough  of  which  he 
has  been  long  the  representative.  He  was  concern- 
ed, I  was  told,  in  the  taking  of  Seringapatam,  in  Asia. 


448  SIMPLON  ROAD, 

Captain  C*****,  has  been  in  the  East  India  service. 
We  were  enveloped  in  fog  for  some  time  in  our  de- 
scent, but,  as  in  America,  it  proved  the  precursor  of 
a  bright,  sunny  day.  The  descent  of  the  mountain 
afforded  more  interest,  by  the  variety  and  boldness  of 
the  scenery,  than  the  ascent.  Among  the  truly  pic- 
turesque objects  of  this  road  are  the  galleries.  These 
are  openings  for  carriages,  cut  through  the  solid  rock, 
in  situations  where  there  was  positively  no  space  be- 
tween the  perpendicular  projection  of  the  mountain 
and  the  chasm  below,  for  a  road  or  platform  to  be 
made.  There  are  six  of  these  galleries  on  the  Sim- 
plon  route,  the  longest  of  which  is  200  metres,  or 
about  650  English  feet.  Three  wide  openings  are 
perforated  through  its  sides  to  admit  light.  The  gal- 
leries are  at  least  as  wide  as  the  road,  (which  is  25 
feet  French,  or  nearly  27  English,)  and  30  feet  high. 
The  crack  of  the  coachman's  whip,  rang  with  deaf- 
ning  sound  in  this  extended  cavern.  In  issuing 
from  it,  we  immediately  cross  a  bridge  over  a  tor- 
rent, which  pours  its  foaming  waters  into  the  river 
Doveria,  and  which,  at  this  very  spot  rushes  with 
thundering  sound,  among  enormous  blocks  of  gra- 
nite, into  a  gulf  below.  In  no  part  of  the  route,  is  the 
power  of  art  so  finely  contrasted  with  the  sublimity 
of  nature,  as  in  this  spot.  Thirty  men,  it  is  said,  were 
employed  night  and  day,  (relieved  every  eight  hours 
by  as  many  others,)  during  eighteen  months,  in  effect- 
ing this  prodigious  gallery. 

It  will  be  easily  understood,  that  to  construct  a 
good  road  on  the  side  of  a  steep  mountain,  a  wall 
must  be  erected  on  the  lower  side  to  support  the 
platform ;  and  that  if  durability  be  an  object,  these 


SIMPLON  ROAD.  449 

walls  must  be  laid  with  stone  and  mortar.  The  quan- 
tity of  masonry,  indeed,  in  this  route  of  the  Simplon 
is  immense.  The  wall  rises  a  few  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  road,  but  we  perceived  that  in  se- 
veral places  it  had  been  injured  by  avalanches 
from  the  heights  above.  Posts,  ten  feet  high,  are 
erected  at  intervals,  to  distinguish  the  road  from  the 
precipice,  when  the  whole  is  deeply  covered  with 
snow.  The  bridges,  (of  which  there  are  many,) 
are  of  wood,  and  very  strong.  The  abutments  are 
wrought  in  stone,  at  great  expense  and  labour,  and 
with  true  architectural  skill.  In  descending,  we  pass- 
ed along  the  valley  of  the  river  Variola,  which  emp- 
ties into  the  lakes  of  Italy,  and  passed  the  barrier  be- 
tween Le  Valais  and  Piedmont,  which  belongs  to  Sar- 
dinia, without  much  difficulty  from  the  Douaniers.  It 
was  interesting  to  observe  the  industry  with  which 
every  spot  is  cultivated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
mountains,  where  a  lodgment  could  be  obtained. 
Villages  and  populous  settlements  soon  began  to  ap- 
pear. On  eminences  too  high  for  a  winter  habita- 
tion, chalets,  or  summer  cottages  are  erected,  where 
the  poor  remain  during  the  warm  season,  to  feed  their 
goats,  and  gather  a  little  hay.  These  chalets  are 
found  in  every  part  of  the  Alps,  and  some  of  them  at  an 
amazing  height.  They  add  much  to  the  picturesque 
beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  rock  on  this  side  of  the 
Alps,  differs  essentially  from  that  on  the  side  of  Swit- 
zerland. Slate  indeed  very  frequently  appears,  but 
granite  and  limestone  are  the  predominant  materials. 
Several  of  the  galleries  are  perforations  through  a 
hard  granite,  containing  a  large  portion  of  quartz.  We 
passed  a  fine  quarry  of  beautiful  marble  in  our  descent, 


450  PLAIN  OF  DOMO  d'oSSOLA. 

whence  some  of  the  finest  workmansliip  of  Milan  has 
been  suppHed.  A  single  column  five  feet  in  diame- 
ter and  about  forty  feet  long,  lay  by  the  side  of  the 
road  ;  having  been  destined  for  the  triumphal  arch  of 
Milan,  but  arrested  in  its  progress,  like  other  things, 
as  we  are  always  told,  "  par  les  evenemens." 

Arrived  at  length  at  the  southern  foot  of  this  ridge 
of  the  Alps,  the  plain  of  Dome  D'Ossola  broke  upon  us 
with  all  the  beauty  of  a  new  and  elegant  picture  at  the 
first  drawing  of  the  curtain.  This  plain  is  very  exten- 
sive, and  appears  as  level  as  a  bowling  green.  Houses 
and  plantations  are  thickly  scattered  on  its  border ; 
most  of  the  former  being  covered  with  white  cement. 
On  entering  the  valley  we  crossed  the  Diveria, 
on  the  new  and  beautiful  bridge  of  Crevola,  which 
forms  part  of  the  improvements  of  this  general  route. 

We  could  not  leave  the  Simplon  without  feelings 
of  admiration  at  the  skill  and  the  energy  which  have 
so  completely  overcome  the  most  formidable  obsta- 
cles, and  established  a  far  better  communication  be- 
tween France  and  Italy,  than  any  which  had  ever 
existed.  Nothing  which  Napoleon  has  executed, 
will  be  regarded  with  more  unmingled  satisfaction, 
or  furnish  a  more  striking  and  durable  monument 
of  his  public  spirit. 

In  travelling  through  this  plain,  and  indeed  before 
we  had  entered  it,  a  considerable  difference  was  per- 
ceptible in  the  style  of  cultivation.  The  grape,  in- 
stead of  being  reared,  as  in  France  and  Switzerland, 
upon  single  stalks,  and  always  confined  by  annual 
pruning,  to  the  height  of  a  few  feet,  is  here  produced 
upon  vines  trained  upon  horizontal  espaliers,  sup- 
ported by  slabs  of  gneiss  planted  in  the  ground  and 


coMO  d'ossola.  451 

rising  to  the  height  of  six  or  seven  feet.  Other 
crops,  such  as  corn  or  millet,  are  introduced  between 
the  vine  rows — a  method  seldom  practised  north  of 
the  Alps. 

Domo  D'Ossola  is  a  town  of  respectable  size,  and 
the  first  we  have  reached  in  which  the  Italian  lan- 
guage is  spoken.  We  walked,  while  dinner  was  pre- 
paring, to  a  place  called  Mount  Calvary,  an  eleva- 
tion, which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  plain,  with 
the  town  below,  and  a  wide  extent  of  improvement 
around.  On  the  top  are  a  church,  an  oratorio,  and 
an  old  tower.  We  entered  the  church,  and  found  it, 
like  the  last  we  were  in,  replete  with  images,  cruci- 
fixes, gewgaw  finery,  and  all  the  trimmings  of  Catholic 
worship.  Small  chapels  are  placed  at  different  stages 
of  the  mountain,  containing  figures  of  the  natural  size, 
and  before  which  these  poor  people  perform  their 
genuflections,  and  recite  their  prayers.  The  figures 
represent  the  events  of  the  trial,  crucifixion,  and  re- 
surrection of  the  Saviour.  His  persecutors  are  drawn, 
as  might  be  expected,  with  ferocious  countenances, 
and  one  of  them,  in  order  to  render  him  as  odious  as 
possible,  is  made  with  a  huge  goitre.  As  we  descend- 
ed we  met  a  priest,  and  a  number  of  his  followers, 
going  up  to  mass.  We  were  accompanied,  in  this 
pleasant  little  excursion,  by  A****  and  C*****.  The 
former  sketches  very  handsomely.  He  showed  us 
several  views  he  had  taken  of  the  Simplon. 

Our  road,  after  dinner,  conducted  us  through  the 
villages  of  Pallanzano,  Masone,  and  Vogagna,  and 
along  the  river  Toccia.  Indian  corn  is  one  of  the 
principal  productions  of  the  valley.  It  was  in  a  state 
fit  for  gathering.     It  is  cultivated  in  broad  lands  or 


452  LOMBARDY. 

rows,  with  an  intervening  space,  in  which  millet  was 
growing.  The  corn  appeared  to  have  been  sown  on 
the  ground,  like  wheat  or  rye,  and  dressed  with  the 
hoe  or  spade.  Atdask  we  dismounted,  for  the  night, 
at  Fariola,  a  small  place,  on  the  border  of  Laco  Mag- 
giore,  (chief  lake.)  the  largest  of  the  three  lakes  of 
Lombardy.  I  accepted  the  invitation  of  A****  and 
C*****,  to  take  tea  with  them,  in  their  room.  We 
were  joined  by  one  of  my  companions,  and  the  evening 
passed  in  interesting  conversation. 

19th.  Our  track,  this  morning,  afforded  high  satis- 
faction, by  conducting  us  along  the  edge  of  the  beau- 
tiful lake  last  mentioned,  the  sides  of  which  exhibited 
many  of  the  luxuries  of  nature  and  the  splendour  of  art. 
We  passed,  on  the  lake,  a  quarry  of  beautiful  rose 
coloured  granite,  surpassing,  1  think,  in  richness  of  co- 
lour, the  finest  marble.  At  Baveno,  a  little  village, 
we  descended  from  our  carriage,  and  took  a  boat,  to 
visit  the  Borromeen  islands,  situated  in  the  lake.  They 
are  three  in  number,  the  most  remarkable  of  which  is 
Isola  Bella,  (the  beautiful  island,)  the  residence  of 
their  wealthy  owner.  This  island,  by  nature,  was  a 
barren  rock  of  small  extent,  but  by  art  and  labour  it 
has  been  enlarged,  to  the  dimensions  of  nearly  a  mile 
in  circumference.  Vast  sums  have  been  expended,  to 
render  it  the  seat  of  beauty  and  magnificence.  A  large 
palace,  erected  at  one  end  of  the  island,  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Borromeus,  the  present  owner,  who  received 
the  property  by  inheritance.  We  were  conducted 
through  the  saloons  and  rooms  of  the  principal  man- 
sion, by  the  upper  servant.  The  pictures,  though  nu- 
merous, did  not  appear  to  be  above  mediocrity.  The 
lower  suite  of  rooms  is  finished  in  the  manner  of  grot- 


BORROMEAN  ISLANDS.  453 

tos,  in  the  richest  and  most  fanciful  taste.  The  floors, 
walls,  and  ceilings  are  formed  of  small  pebbles,  of  va- 
rious colours,  inserted  in  stucco,  and  so  arranged  as  to 
form  flowers,  birds,  men,  and  other  creatures,  in  great 
variety.  The  pillars  are  covered  with  pieces  of  rough, 
calcareous  tufa.  The  Mosaic  eflfect  of  this  ornamental 
work  is  extremely  curious  and  pleasing.  The  largest 
of  these  rooms  is  the  "  Salle  a  manger,"  and  a  more 
cool  and  delightful  place,  for  refreshing  the  appetite, 
contiguous  as  it  is  to  the  water  of  the  lake,  it  would 
be  diflicult  to  find.  The  garden  and  shrubbery  are 
altogether  in  the  artificial  style  of  former  days.  They 
consist  of  ten  terraces,  rising  successively  one  above 
another,  and  decorated  with  fountains  and  statues. 
These  terraces  are  entirely  artificial,  forming  the  suc- 
cessive stages  of  a  pyramid,  which  has  a  base  of  400 
feet  square,  and  rises  to  the  height  of  150  feet.  The 
platform  on  the  summit  is  fifty  feet  square.  The  ter- 
races are  supported  by  arcades,  beneath  which  the 
more  tender  plants  are  protected  during  the  winter. 
I  saw  here,  for  the  first  time,  orange  and  citron  trees 
growing  in  the  open  ground.  Some  of  the  former  were 
a  foot  in  diameter,  and  nearly  all  luxuriant  in  flowers 
and  fruit,  in  various  stages  of  growth.  The  gardener 
informed  us,  that  he  collected,  annually,  about  60,000 
lemons.  There  are  forty  families  residing  on  this 
island,  as  dependants  of  the  signore.  Isola  Madre 
is  the  largest  of  the  three,  and  also  contains  a  garden, 
and  a  mansion,  to  which  the  owner  often  resorts.  The 
servant  informed  us,  that  the  Princess  of  Wales  had 
twice  visited  his  master,  at  Isola  Bella,  and  he  pointed 
out  the  room  in  which  she  lodged.  The  third  island 
is  the  abode  of  a  colony  of  fishermen.  These  islands 
Vol.  I.  38 


454  LACO  MAGGIORE. 

were  at  first  only  naked  rocks  in  the  lake.  They  were 
purchased  in  1673,  by  Count  Vitalian  Borromeo,  who 
covered  them  with  earth,  and  rendered  them,  by  pro- 
digious labour,  what  we  now  behold  them. 

The  road  along  the  lake  is  a  continuation  of  the 
Simplon  improvement.  It  is  as  smooth  and  substan- 
tial, and  elegant,  as  one  can  well  conceive  a  road  to  be. 
It  is  supported  on  the  lake  side  by  a  wall  of  masonry, 
many  miles  in  extent.     The  bridges  are  of  granite. 

The  village  of  Arona,  on  the  border  of  the  lake, 
gave  birth  to  Charles  Borromeus,  a  predecessor  and 
relative  of  the  present  family.  He  was  born  in  1 538, 
and  in  consequence  of  his  extraordinary  benevolence, 
and  the  sanctity  of  his  life,  he  was  canonized  by- 
Paul  V.  in  1605,  and  is  now  regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  of  the  Italian  saints.  If  the  accounts 
published  of  him,  be  correct,  he  was  truly  a  remark- 
able character,  living  in  extreme  self-denial,  and  dis- 
tributing his  immense  wealth  in  acts  of  charity  and 
public  improvements.  A  statue  of  him  is  erected  on 
a  high  hill,  near  the  town  of  Arona,  which  attracted 
our  attention  at  a  great  distance.  It  is  of  copper,  and 
is  probably  the  largest  statue  in  Europe.  We  did  not 
ascend  to  it,  but  the  dimensions  given  me,  by  A**** 
and  C*****,  who  stopped  to  examine  it,  are  the  follow- 
ing, very  nearly : 

Height 70  feet. 

Length  of  the  head 10    do. 

Circumference  of  the  neck 20    do. 

Length  of  nose 2i  do. 

Length  of  the  arm 28    do. 

Do.  fore  finger 4    do. 


COLOSSAL  STATUE.  455 

Length  of  the  breviary,  or  book,  which  )    ,^  .    ^ 

}   10  feet 
he  holds ) 

Width  of  the  book 4    do. 

Length  of  the  foot 4    do. 

Height  of  the  pedestal  of  granite,  on^ 

which  it  stands ) 

Cost  of  the  statue ^55150,000 

Six  men,  it  is  said,  may  dine  together  in  the  head. 
One  arm  of  this  colossal  figure  is  raised,  and  points  to 
a  school,  which  "  San  Carlos"  established  for  the  in- 
struction of  eighty  boys.  This  remarkable  statue  was 
erected  at  the  joint  expense  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
vicinage  and  of  the  Borromean  family,  and  was  inau- 
gurated on  the  10th  of  May,  1698,  by  the  archbishop 
of  Milan. 

The  waters  of  lake  Maggiore  are  discharged, 
through  the  river  Ticino  into  the  Po,  and  thence  into 
the  Adriatic  Sea.  Arrived  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake, 
we  crossed  the  Ticino  in  a  large  floating  vehicle, 
made  by  throwing  a  platform  over  two  boats.  We 
drove  on  it  without  getting  out  of  our  carriage.  It 
was  drawn  over,  by  pulling  at  a  rope  which  was 
stretched  across  the  river,  and  passed  through  an 
opening  in  a  post  attached  to  the  boat.  It  is  a  clumsy 
contrivance,  and  very  slow  in  its  motion.  On  the 
other  side  we  landed  in  the  town  of  Sesto,  in  Lom- 
bardy,  and  were,  of  course,  within  the  dominions  of 
Austria.  A  douceur  was  paid  to  the  Sardinian  offi- 
cers on  one  side,  for  suffering  our  baggage  to  pass 
unexamined,  and  another  to  the  Austrian,  at  Sesto, 
for  the  liberty  of  writing  our  names  in  a  book  which 
was  presented  to  us,  agreeably  to  a  form  prescribed 


456  LOMBARDV. 

by  law.  We  dined  at  Sesto,  and  proceeded  through 
a  tract  of  country  which  possessed  but  httle  to  inte- 
rest us,  except  its  connexion  with  the  robberies  of 
which  it  has  often  been  the  theatre.  Our  voiturier 
related  to  us  some  of  his  own  narrow  escapes,  and 
the  disasters  which  had  befallen  others.  The  govern- 
ment has  used  great  vigilance  and  activity  in  sup- 
pressing the  brigandage  that  has  been  so  long  an 
abomination  to  Italy,  and  it  is  now  considered  quite 
safe  to  travel  any  where  in  Lombardy  in  the  day  time. 
The  night,  however,  contrary  to  our  expectation 
overtook  us,  and  excited  apprehensions,  which  were 
at  length  agreeably  expelled  by  the  lights  of  Galla- 
rate,  a  town  where  we  were  to  repose  till  the  dawn 
of  another  day.  The  two  English  gentleman  arrived 
soon  after  us. 

20th.  We  were  waited  upon,  at  the  inn  at  Galla- 
rate,  by  the  daughter  and  son  of  the  innkeeper,  whose 
appearance  and  manners  gave  us  a  favourable  pre- 
possession of  Italian  customs.  At  parting  they  came 
to  the  carriage,  and  took  us  by  the  hand  with  the  ex- 
pression of  much  good  will.  The  morning  was  very 
fine.  The  sun  rose  with  brilliance,  and  gilded  the 
lofty  summits  of  Mount  Rosa  and  other  peaks  of  the 
Alps,  which  lay  behind  us.  This  last  named  moun- 
tain, is  very  little  lower  than  Mount  Blanc,  and  con- 
stitutes one  of  the  grandest  features  of  the  southern 
side  of  the  Alps.  Our  way  was  directly  through  the 
plains  of  Lombardy,  apparently  as  level  as  the  ocean. 
The  process  of  irrigation  is  carefully  attended  to  in 
this  country.  The  elevation  of  the  streams  as  they 
issue  from  the  mountains,  affords  the  means  of  doing 
it  in  great  perfection.     The  inclination  of  the  plains 


RHO.  457 

is  very  gradual,  yet  suflScient  to  produce  an  easy  and 
uninterrupted  flow  of  the  water.  It  is  conducted  in 
channels  along  the  roads,  and  thence  into  the  fields, 
and  distributed  through  furrows,  or  small  courses, 
(which  are  opened  or  shut  at  pleasure,)  to  the  places 
required.  While  the  horses  were  feeding  at  Rho,  a 
large  town  about  nine  miles  from  Milan,  we  walked 
to  a  church  called  Notre  Dame  des  Miracles,  which 
belonged  formerly  to  the  College  of  Missionaries,  now 
suppressed.  It  is  a  large  and  beautiful  building,  and 
displays  great  taste,  both  in  its  exterior  and  interior 
finish.  The  priest  was  ofliciating  before  the  altar, 
with  an  auditory  of  not  more  than  half  a  dozen  per- 
sons, and  those,  judging  from  their  appearance,  very 
poor.  A  woman  came  and  knelt  before  the  altar, 
without  the  railing,  and  a  lad  placed  himself  in  a 
corresponding  position  on  the  other  side  of  the  pass- 
age. The  priest  advanced  to  the  altar,  kneeled,  and 
bowed  to  the  image,  opened  a  little  door,  bowed  again, 
took  out  a  cup,  bowed  before  it,  opened  it,  bowed 
again,  took  out  a  large  white  wafer  in  each  hand,  re- 
treated from  the  altar,  bowed  to  the  image,  then  ad- 
vanced to  the  woman  and  put  the  wafer  in  her  mouth, 
repeating,  at  the  same  time,  a  sentence  in  Latin,  im- 
plying that  he  administered  to  her  the  body  of  Christ  1 
The  same  process  was  renewed  with  the  boy.  After 
receiving  the  wafer  they  remained  some  time  on  their 
knees,  and  then  withdrew.  The  countenances  of 
these  poor  people,  indicated  great  devotion  and  sin- 
cerity, and  I  have  little  doubt  that  they  swallowed  the 
wafer,  and  the  Latin  too,  all  in  good  faith ;  but  if  I 
might  be  allowed  to  judge,  from  the  manners  of  the 
young  priest,  his  credulity  was  not  quite  of  so  easy  a 

38* 


458  LOMBARDY. 

character.  We  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  tower  ol" 
this  church,  and  enjojed  a  dehghtful  prospect  of  the 
plain,  with  the  city  of  Milan  on  one  side  and  the  Alps 
on  the  other,  three-fourths  of  the  horizon  remaining 
entirely  unbroken  by  the  least  variation  from  a  level. 
The  number  of  villages  and  spires,  of  gardens,  villas^ 
and  richly  cultivated  fields,  which  decorated  this  im- 
mense plain,  particularly  on  the  side  next  the  lakes, 
and  in  the  direction  of  Como,  surprised  us  all.  The 
whole  spectacle  was  of  a  novel  character,  and  charm- 
ing in  the  highest  degree. 

We  entered  Milan  about  ten  o'clock,  and  drove  to 
the  "  Pension  Suisse,"  which  being  already  full,  we 
proceeded  to  the  Albergo  San  Marco,  and  were  well 
accommodated.  Having  dined,  we  called  upon  seve- 
ral persons,  whose  names  had  been  given  us,  but  found 
none  of  them  at  home.  Our  cicerone  led  us  to  the 
cathedral,  and  we  availed  ourselves  of  the  remaining 
light  of  a  clear  bright  evening,  by  ascending  to  the 
top,  and  taking  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  city.  The 
ascent  of  520  steps  was  a  work  of  some  labour,  but 
we  were  well  repaid  by  the  rich  and  vastly  extended 
scenery  around  us.  The  sun  went  down  behind 
Mount  Rosa,  with  a  splendour  I  have  never  seen 
^surpassed. 


MILAN.  159 

LETTER   XVI. 

Genoa^  lOth  month,  (October)  28,  1818. 

My  dear  *****  AND  ****, 

At  six  this  morning,  (the  21st,)  we  went  to  the 
hospital,  a  very  large  and  well  regulated  establish- 
ment. We  were  introduced  into  a  spacious  interior 
square,  around  which  were  different  wards  and  other 
apartments  of  the  institution.  This  square  opened 
again  into  others,  there  being  in  the  whole  eight  of 
them,  but  of  less  size  than  the  first.  It  appears  to  be 
customary  for  the  physicians  and  surgeons  of  the  con- 
tinental hospitals,  to  pay  their  visits  at  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning. 

We  were  conducted  to  the  wards  without  delay, 
and  found  them  engaged  in  their  visits.  I  addressed 
the  principal  surgeon  ;  stated  to  him  our  country,  the 
motives  of  our  visit,  and  the  pleasure  we  should  derive 
from  any  information  he  might  be  pleased  to  give  us. 
He  immediately  gave  some  directions  to  the  young 
men  in  attendance,  and  obligingly  walked  with  us 
through  all  the  rooms  and  wards,  that  we  wished 
to  see.  The  hospital  is  large  enough  for  the  accom- 
modation of  3000  patients ;  but,  at  present,  they  have 
but  800.  The  bedsteads  are  of  iron,  and  without 
curtains,  except  a  very  few,  and  these  were  plain  and 
simple.  The  medical  patients  are  separate  from  the 
surgical ;  there  is  also  a  distinct  ward  for  diseases  of 
the  eye.  In  one  of  the  female  wards,  were  one  hun- 
dred and  ninety  beds.     This  room  is  in  the  form  of  a 


160  niiLAX. 

cross,  with  an  altar,  at  which  mass  is  occasionally  ce- 
lebrated. Crucifixes  are  to  be  seen  suspended  in  dif- 
ferent places,  in  most  of  the  hospitals  I  have  visited, 
and  pictures,  or  prints,  of  the  virgin  and  child,  placed 
at  the  head  of  a  bed,  are  very  common.  Another 
ward  contained  sixty-four  beds ;  indeed,  they  are 
mostly  very  large.  The  male  patients  are  attended 
by  male  nurses,  and  the  women  by  females,  taken  from 
the  foundling  hospital.  We  were  shown  a  lad,  of  not 
more  than  twelve,  who  had  three  times  undergone  a 
lithotomic  operation.  The  kitchen  is  extensive.  The 
cook  and  assistants,  are  taken  from  the  foundling  hos- 
pital. The  apothecary's  shop  is  large,  and  apparent- 
ly  well  arranged.  The  laboratory  contained  an  am- 
ple set  of  utensils,  for  the  various  pharmaceutical  ope- 
rations. In  addition  to  these,  we  were  shown  a  pretty 
large  room,  well  provided  with  a  suite  of  furnaces,  a 
forge,  and  a  cabinet  of  chemical  preparations,  rea- 
gents, &;c.  all  destined  for  a  course  of  lectures  on 
pharmacy,  to  the  students  of  the  town.  This  hospi- 
tal holds  a  distinguished  rank  in  Italy.  It  appeared 
to  us  to  be  well  attended  to,  and  the  patients  kept  in 
tolerable  comfort ;  but  it  is  not  in  that  state  of  neat- 
ness and  order,  which  we  have  noticed  in  some  other 
institutions. 

Surgeon  Moriji  next  conducted  us  to  the  Foundling 
Hospital.  After  some  hesitation,  (for  strangers  are 
not  generally  admitted,)  the  doors  were  opened  to 
us,  and  we  were  attended  by  an  active,  and  very  talk- 
ative matron;  but  as  she  spoke  only  Italian,  Moriji 
interpreted  for  us,  into  French.  There  were  about 
three  hundred  children  in  the  house,  of  both  sexes, 
and  various  ages.     Many  of  those,  who  can  work,  are 


MILAN.  461 

lodged  and  fed  here,  but  are  sent  into  the  town  to 
work,  at  such  places  and  arts,  as  may  be  found  for 
them.  When  we  first  entered  the  hospital  court,  we 
met  a  large  number  of  the  boys  of  this  charity,  going 
out  to  work,  with  each  a  piece  of  bread.  This  hospi- 
tal receives,  without  inquiry,  all  the  children  that  are 
brought  to  it.  The  poor  little  creatures,  who  are  thus 
abandoned  to  the  wide  world,  by  unnatural  parents, 
are  brought  to  the  wall  of  the  hospital,  in  the  night, 
and  placed  in  a  cradle,  lined  with  leather,  which  is 
contained  in  a  round  box,  that  revolves  on  an  axis, 
one  half  projecting  beyond  the  wall,  outside.  The  in- 
fant is  laid  in,  and  the  box  is  turned  round  ;  this  rings 
a  set  of  bells;  the  attendant  immediately  comes,  and 
delivers  the  child  to  the  nurse.  In  one  room,  were 
children  of  the  tenderest  age.  They  were  incased  in 
swaddling  clothes,  like  little  mummies,  leaving  only 
the  head  at  liberty.  Each  wet  nurse  has  two.  She 
lifts  them  about  with  one  hand,  like  a  little  girl  her 
dolls.  But  as  there  is  not  a  sufficient  number  of  wet 
nurses  for  all  the  children,  one  apartment  of  the  insti- 
tution is  consigned  to  those,  who  are  to  be  brought 
up  by  hand.  Of  these,  we  were  informed,  upon  in- 
quiry, the  greatest  number  die  within  the  first  year. 
They  are  fed  on  a  decoction  of  barley  and  milk, 
which  the  child  takes  through  a  small  sponge,  at- 
tached to  the  spout  of  a  cup,  or  small  teapot.  Not 
less  than  three  thousand,  were  brought  to  the  house, 
in  the  course  of  1817,  but  it  was  rather  an  excessive 
number.  1  asked  Moriji,  if  he  did  not  think  such  in- 
stitutions had  an  unfavourable  effect  upon  the  public 
morals,  but  he  did  not  seem  to  be  aware  that  it  had ; 
at  least  he  believed,  that  the  ultimate  effect,  was  fa- 


462  &IILAN. 

vourable  to  humanity.  But  in  this  I  differ  so  decided- 
ly from  him  in  opinion,  that  I  should  greatly  regret  to 
see  such  an  institution,  set  up  in  the  United  States. 
There  is  no  reason  to  fear,  however,  that  this  will 
ever  be  the  case,  for  the  public  voice,  I  am  persuaded, 
would  be  almost  unanimous  against  it ;  and  that,  too, 
on  the  firm  ground  of  morals,  religion,  and  humanity. 
There  are  none,  I  believe,  in  England ;  at  least  none 
upon  the  principle  of  indiscriminate  admission,  adopt- 
ed here  and  in  other  large  towns  of  the  continent. 
In  some  of  the  rooms,  children  from  four  to  eight  or 
ten  years  of  age,  were  collected  for  instruction  in 
knitting  and  sewing.  In  the  nurseries  for  sick  chil- 
dren, we  noticed  a  very  large  proportion  of  diseases 
of  the  eye,  and  of  scrofulous  cases.  The  hospital, 
at  Milan,  is  supported  by  funds  in  its  possession, 
which  are  increased  by  contributions  and  legacies. 
Upon  the  whole,  we  were  convinced,  that  these  insti- 
tutions, though  established  and  supported  at  a  great 
expense,  are  not  so  well  inspected  as  they  ought  to  be. 
The  attention  we  received  from  Professor  Moriji, 
was  more  than  perfect  strangers,  without  any  intro- 
duction, had  a  right  to  presume  upon.  He  remained 
with  us  about  two  hours,  during  a  fatiguing  march, 
up  and  down  stairs,  from  room  to  room.  He  appears 
to  hold  a  respectable  rank  in  his  profession,  but  is  not 
altogether  free  from  the  too  general  infection,  of  the 
odium  medicum.  i  am  at  a  loss  to  determine,  upon  what 
principle  it  is,  that  this  moral  malady,  so  common 
among  physicians,  is  to  be  accounted  for.  Dr.  Rush 
once  told  me,  that  he  had  a  dispute  with  Dr.  Priestly, 
relative  to  the  odium  medicum,  and  the  odium  theo- 
logicum.     Each  contended  for  the  superior  aggrava- 


MILAX.  463 

tion  of  his  own  professional  disease.  Lawyers,  I  be- 
lieve, live  upon  as  good  terms  with  each  other,  as  with 
the  rest  of  the  world. 

After  breakfast  we  went  again  to  the  cathedral. 
To  describe  this  edifice  properly,  would  require  a 
small  volume.  The  exterior  is  entirely  of  marble,  not 
excepting  the  roof,  or  at  least,  only  a  part  of  it,  which 
is  still  unfinished.  Such  a  profusion  of  sculpture 
is  perhaps  no  where  to  be  seen  as  the  outside  of  this 
edifice  presents  to  the  eye.  Most  of  the  prominent 
incidents  of  the  Old  and  New  Testaments,  are  here 
attempted  to  be  described,  in  marble  figures  as  large 
as  life.  The  architecture  is  Gothic ;  and  though  the 
building  was  commenced  in  1 386,  it  advanced  so  slow- 
ly, that  even  the  front  was  not  completed,  till  the  city 
of  Milan  came  under  the  sway  of  Napoleon.  He 
went  boldly  to  work  and  had  very  nearly  completed 
the  original  design,  when  the  labours  of  the  workmen 
were  again  arrested  '•'•par  les  evmemensy  They  are 
now  resumed,  and  nothing  remains  unfinished  but  the 
roof.  There  are,  it  is  said,  in  this  grand  Duomo,  1200 
statues.  Every  pinnacle  or  spire  is  surmounted  by 
a  statue.  Every  niche,  and  projection,  is  ornament- 
ed with  a  statue,  and  every  pannel  contains  figures  in 
alto  relievo.  In  magnitude,  this  cathedral  yields  only 
to  St.  Peter's  in  Rome.  It  is  nearly  of  the  same  length 
as  St.  Paul's  in  London,  but  in  width  much  superior. 
Its  interior  elevation  under  the  dome  is  258  feet,  and 
its  exterior  height  from  the  pavement  to  the  summit 
of  the  tower,  400  feet.  The  chancel  is  entirely  open, 
and  separated  from  the  nave  only  by  its  elevation. 
The  pillars  which  support  the  roof  are  in  clusters, 
and  more  than  ninety  feet  high.     It  is  perhaps  the 


464  MILAN. 

only  edifice  of  the  kind  built  entirely  of  so  elegant 
and  durable  a  material ;  it  is  paved,  vaulted  and  roof- 
ed with  white  marhle,  from  near  lake  Maggiore. 
Upon  the  whole,  in  point  of  materials,  costliness,  and 
embellishment,  this  edifice  may,  in  all  probability,  be 
justly  ranked  as  the  second  in  Europe,  and  of  course 
in  the  world.  Nevertheless,  this  splendid  specimen 
of  architectural  skill,  has  been,  1  think,  justly  object- 
ed to  by  travellers,  as  producing  too  great  a  confu- 
sion of  objects.  Its  effect  upon  the  mind  is  that  of 
grandeur,  rather  than  pleasure, — magnificence,  ra- 
ther than  elegance, — of  power,  devoid  of  the  simpli- 
city of  true  taste.  Of  the  ornaments  of  the  interior, 
the  most  imposing  are  the  tomb  of  St.  Charles  Bor- 
romeo,  and  the  pictures  which  illustrate  the  events 
of  his  life.  We  were  conducted  into  the  tom.b.  It  is 
an  octangular  cavity  in  the  central  part  of  the  cathe- 
dral, immediately  under  the  dome,  and  sufl[iciently 
spacious  to  contain  20  men.  The  coffin  is  formed  of 
pieces  of  rock  crystal  of  extraordinary  size  and  of 
the  finest  polish,  inserted  in  silver  frames.  It  was 
given  by  Philip  IV.  of  Spain,  who  was  eight  years  in 
search  of  crystal,  before  he  procured  a  sufficient 
quantity.  The  body  is  clothed  in  the  robes  which 
he  wore  when  Archbishop  of  Milan,  decked  with  nu- 
merous jewels.  The  dark  and  shrivelled  face  of  the 
••  Saint,"  is  the  only  mortal  part  exposed  to  view. 
Around  the  sides  of  the  tomb  are  superb  representa- 
tions, in  massive  silver  relief,  of  the  principal  events 
of  his  life,  beginning  with  his  birth,  and  ending,  (of 
course,)  with  his  apotheosis.  The  hangings  of  this 
subterranean  chapel,  are  cloth  of  gold,  and  the  archi- 
traves of  the  doors  and  cornice  are  of  solid  silver. 


MILAN.  465 

The  cornice  is  supported  by  large  statues  of  angels^ 
adorned  with  alto  relievos  of  silver.  From  the  roof 
of  the  coffin  hangs  a  small  cross  over  his  breast,  form* 
ed  of  emeralds,  a  rich  present  from  Maria  Theresa, 
of  Austria.  The  tomb  is  covered  with  an  open  gra- 
ting of  wood,  and  around  it  in  the  church,  is  an  iron 
railing  or  enclosure,  which  the  pious  or  the  curious 
may  approach,  in  order  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  splen^ 
did  receptacle  of  the  body  of  a  man,  whose  motto, 
while  living  was  "  Humilitas,"  and  whose  life  actually 
exhibited  a  most  extraordinary  example  of  self-abase- 
ment. With  what  seventy  of  censure  does  that  single 
word  condemn  this  pompous  display  of  monumental 
extravagance  ?  The  pictures  which  are  suspended 
between  the  massive  pillars  of  the  cathedral,  are  also 
devoted  to  the  memory  of  this  illustrious  member  of 
the  Borromean  family.  Their  execution  is  not  above 
mediocrity.  The  design  of  them  is  different  from 
those  of  the  tomb,  but  the  events  they  illustrate,  are 
nearly  the  same.  This  extraordinary  man  was  the 
nephew  of  Pius  i V.  He  became  a  cardinal  and  arch- 
bishop at  twenty-four  years  of  age.  Though  born  to 
the  inheritance  of  almost  unbounded  wealth,  and  the 
highest  dignities,  and  with  talents  which  soon  raised 
him  to  great  eminence  in  learning  and  accomplish- 
ments, he  not  only  escaped  the  intoxication,  so  na- 
tural to  a  youthful  mind  in  such  circumstances,  but 
devoted  his  life,  with  the  steadiness  of  a  Christian 
hero,  to  the  spiritual  and  temporal  welfare  of  his  dio- 
cese. The  occurrence  of  a  raging  pestilence  in 
Milan,  did  not  induce  him  to  forsake  his  post.  He 
erected  a  hospital,  and  fed  the  victims  of  disease 
with  his  own  hands.  He  died  at  the  age  of  forty-six : 
Vol.  I.  39 


466  MILAN. 

but  his  memorj  lives  in  the  imperishable  records  of 
history,  and  needs  not  the  splendour  of  mausoleums, 
to  preserve  it  in  the  atrections  of  the  Milanese.  If, 
indeed,  such  a  monumental  display  could  induce 
others  to  emulate  these  virtues,  then  marble,  silver, 
and  jewels,  might  not  be  lavished  in  vain. 

We  called  to  pay  our  respects  to  Monti,  a  person 
who  is  considered  as  holding  the  highest  rank  among 
the  living  Italian  poets.  He  received  us  complai- 
santly,  sitting  in  bed,  dressed  in  a  gelet,  and  with  a 
frame  before  him,  covered  with  books  and  materials 
for  writing.  He  is  rather  an  old  man,  but  of  still 
vigorous  intellect.  The  conversation  was  general. 
He  spoke  highly  of  Sismondi,  and  was  glad  to  hear 
from  him.  The  poetry  of  Monti  is  considered  by 
some,  as  worthy  of  being  placed  next  to  that , of  Pe- 
trarch and  Dante.  His  writings  have  generally  a 
political  bearing,  and  he  is  accused  of  being  always 
in  favour  of  existing  authority. 

We  took  a  fiacre,  for  the  purpose  of  viewing  a  few 
things,  at  some  distance  from  the  town.  1st.  The 
amphitheatre.  This  is  a  large  place,  called  the  JYau- 
machia^  erected  in  the  reign  of  Bonaparte,  for  the 
purpose  of  public  entertainment.  It  comprehends 
about  two  acres  of  ground,  of  an  elliptical  form, 
surrounded  by  a  wall.  In  the  centre  is  an  ellip- 
tical excavation,  about  four  feet  deep.  Around 
this  the  ground  slopes  to  the  wall,  and  is  formed 
into  seats,  rising  successively  above  each  other, 
covered  with  turf,  and  capable,  it  is  said,  of  contain- 
ing 20,000  spectators.  An  elegant  building  is  erect- 
ed adjacent  to  this  theatre,  with  beautiful  columns 
of  red  granite,  and  with  steps  of  granite  descending 


MILAN.  467 

to  the  basin.  This  building  is  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  grandees  who  attend  and  regulate  the 
spectacle.  When  all  is  ready,  the  floodgates  are 
opened,  and  water  rushes  in  and  fills  the  basin  to  a 
convenient  depth.  Boats  are  then  introduced,  ac- 
coutred for  sport  and  games  of  various  sorts. 

2d.  The  echo.  The  attention  of  strangers  is  de- 
servedly directed  to  this  curiosity.  It  is  merely  an 
old  country  palace,  now  abandoned,  consisting  of  a 
large  front  and  two  wings  extending  in  the  rear  to  the 
depth,  probably,  of  sixty  feet ;  the  walls  of  these 
wings  are  perpendicular  to  the  front.  They  are 
smooth  and  entire,  except  a  single  window,  at  a  con- 
siderable elevation,  in  one  of  the  wings.  When  a 
noise  is  made  at  this  window,  the  sound  is  audibly 
reverberated  about  sixty  times.  Some  of  our  com- 
pany were  able  to  count  at  least  fifty-six  repetitions 
of  the  sound  of  a  pistol,  which  was  fired  by  the  at- 
tendants. The  experiment  was  several  times  repeat- 
ed with  similar  results.  The  distance  of  these  walls 
from  each  other,  I  should  judge  to  be  150  feet. 

3d.  The  triumphal  arch  of  Bonaparte.  This  was 
in  a  state  of  great  forwardness,  when  the  masons  and 
the  sculptors  were  obliged  to  desist  "joar  les  evenemens.''^ 
It  is  placed  exactly  at  the  termination  of  the  Simplon 
road,  and  at  the  entrance  of  the  city.  The  sculpture 
appeared  to  me,  to  be  the  finest  specimens  of  modern 
skill,  I  have  yet  beheld.  If  completed,  it  would  cer- 
tainly be  regarded  as  a  most  elaborate  piece  of  work- 
manship. But  the  image  of  the  conqueror  is  too  ap- 
parent among  the  figures,  to  admit  of  the  belief,  that 
the  numerous  elegant  alto-relievos,  which  are  held 
under  lock  and  key,  in  the  coarse  shops  around  the 


468  MILAN. 

arch  in  which  they  were  formed,  will  ever  be  placed 
triumphant,  on  their  pillars,  without  a  material  change 
in  the  Lombardian  government. 

4th.  The  Cenacle,  or  Last  Supper,  of  Lionaixlo  da 
Vinci.  This  celebrated  picture  is  executed  on  the  end 
wall  of  a  long  room,  of  the  convent  of  Madonna  delle 
Grazie.  Though  in  a  state  of  decay,  it  still  retains 
enough  of  the  spirit  and  animation  of  the  painter,  to 
render  it  an  object  of  the  greatest  interest  to  an  ama- 
teur. The  figures  are  somewhat  larger  than  life. 
When  the  monks  ^sre  turned  out  of  this  convent  by 
the  revolution,  this  picture  was  exposed,  through  utter 
carelessness,  to  the  weather,  and  received  material  in- 
jury. The  surface  of  the  wall  has  become  loose,  and 
is  gradually  pealing  off  The  painting  is  324  years 
old.  It  has  been  so  often  copied  and  engraved,  that 
the  arrangement  of  the  figures,  and  their  respective 
attitudes,  are  well  known  to  every  lover  of  painting. 
An  imitation  of  this  picture  in  mosaic,  is  in  a  state  of 
forwardness  in  this  city,  by  Raffaelli,  a  professor  of 
that  ancient  art.  On  the  wall  opposite  to  the  picture 
of  the  Supper,  is  a  painting  of  the  Crucifixion,  by 
D'Oggione,  also  much  admired.  The  principal  build- 
ings of  this  convent  are  now  used  as  horse  barracks. 
There  was  a  variety  of  elegant  paintings  in  this  room, 
at  the  time  of  our  visit,  for  sale.  From  the  prices 
attached  to  them,  I  could  not  but  think,  that  an  Ame- 
rican academy  might  be  supplied  on  very  moderate 
terms. 

We  took  dinner  at  a  "  ristoratore."  The  articles 
of  the  bill  of  fare,  were  much  the  same  as  those  of 
France.  Grated  cheese  is  always  placed  on  the 
table,  to  be  added  to  the  soup. 


MILAN.  469 

Very  few  women  are  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  of 
Milan,  in  comparison  with  the  cities  of  France,  or 
even  of  England.     We  have  seen  no  beggars. 

22d.  We  this  morning  visited  the  zecca,  or  mint, 
and  had  explained  to  us,  the  various  operations  of 
melting,  rolling,  cutting,  weighing,  and  stamping  the 
coin.  The  stamping  machine  makes  about  1000  im- 
pressions in  an  hour.  Gold  is  more  plentiful  here 
than  silver.  The  machinery  is  moved  by  a  water 
wheel.  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  the  Hkeness  of  Na- 
poleon is  still  stamped  upon  the  money  now  coined. 
Jt  is  the  impression  of  I  {{14.  A  great  deal  of  work 
is  done  at  this  mint,  but  it  is  mostly  for  individuals. 
We  were  shown  several  cabinets  of  dies,  contain- 
ing all  those  Ihat  have  been  in  use  since  the  institu- 
tion was  erected.  The  ancients  struck  their  coins 
with  a  hammer,  by  hand,  as  is  evident  from  the  shape 
and  appearance  of  the  die.  They  preserve  carefully 
also,  patterns  of  all  the  medals  that  are  struck  at  the 
mint.  The  collection  is  interesting  in  a  historical 
point  of  view.  The  buildings  of  the  mint  are  situa- 
ted around  an  open  square,  and  are  airy  and  conve- 
nient. In  one  apartment,  they  were  washing  silver 
ore,  obtained  near  the  lake  Maggiore. 

After  returning  from  the  mint,  we  called  upon 
Count  Moscati,  who  was  a  senator  under  the  former 
government,  a  physician  of  high  repute,  and  a  man  of 
letters.  He  is  now  advanced  in  years.  He  reproach- 
ed us  for  not  staying  longer  in  Milan,  than  he  found 
it  was  our  intention  to  do.  After  treating  us  to  cho- 
colate, he  conducted  us  through  a  long  suite  of  apart- 
ments, containing  his  library,  and  his  instruments  of 
Natural  Philosophy  and  Chemistry.      The  collection 

39  * 


470  MILAK. 

is  a  remarkably  fine  one  for  that  of  an  individual,  who 
pursues  science  only  for  the  pleasure  it  aflfords.  His 
apparatus  is  chiefly  from  Paris  and  London,  and  many 
of  the  instruments  are  of  nice  and  costly  workmanship. 
His  laboratory  is  large  and  well  constructed,  and  his 
chemical  utensils  more  extensive  than  those  of  some 
public  schools.  The  bellows  of  his  forge  is  of  wood, 
very  neatly  made,  and  with  appendages  which  adapt 
it  to  the  production  of  a  current  of  air  to  a  lamp,  or 
table  furnace,  any  where  in  the  room.  Among  his 
chemical  preparations  was  a  beautiful  Arbor  Dianae, 
produced  by  supporting  a  small  quantity  of  mercury, 
contained  in  a  leather  bag,  on  the  top  of  a  glass  rod, 
attached  by  cement  to  the  bottom  of  a  bottle  con- 
taining the  nitric  solution  of  silver.  His  library  is 
very  extensive,  comprehending  the  best  works  of  sci- 
ence in  most  of  the  languages  of  ancient  and  modern 
Europe.  It  includes  a  very  large  collection  of  tracts 
or  pamphlets,  bound  up  in  the  order  of  time.  Among 
them  I  noticed  Dr.  Franklin's  Poor  Richard,  in  Ital- 
ian, He  has  likewise  a  collection  of  the  Paris  Moni- 
teur  from  the  beginning  of  the  revolution.  He  showed 
us  several  splendid  works  on  natural  history.  Being 
himself  in  feeble  health,  his  servant  conducted  us  to 
the  Italian  Institute,  of  which  Moscati  is  the  director 
of  the  class  of  science.  The  building  which  this  insti- 
tution occupies  was  formerly  a  convent  of  Jesuits,  de- 
nominated the  BRERA.  It  is  of  astonishing  size,  and 
in  a  beautiful  style  of  architecture.  The  staircases 
are  uncommonly  large  and  fine,  and  the  colonnades 
are  of  granite.  We  were  first  conducted  to  the  ob- 
servatorjr,  which  occupies  several  rooms  on  the  top 
of  one  q^uarter  of  the  building.     The  instruments  aic 


MILAN.  471 

numerous,  and  most  of  them  in  fine  order.  They 
are  of  English,  French,  and  Milanese  workmanship. 
Among  them  are  five  or  six  telescopes  well  mounted ; 
one  of  which  is  a  transit  instrument,  eight  feet  long. 
Among  them  is  a  reflector  fifteen  feet  long,  with  about 
ten  inches  aperture,  but  it  is  not  mounted.  Some  of 
the  telescopes  are  on  stone  pillars  well  supported  be- 
low, and  protected  by  moveable  roofs,  with  late- 
ral and  vertical  openings.  There  are  mural  qua- 
drants also,  for  fore  and  back  observation.  Astrono- 
mical  clocks  were  in  movement  in  various  parts  of 
the  observatory,  and  among  the  instruments  was  a  lu- 
nar globe  in  mounting,  with  a  small  terrestrial  globe 
attached  to  it.  This  observatory  is  well  situated  for 
astronomical  research,  having  a  charming  sky  and  a 
very  fine  horizon,  it  constitutes  part  of  the  academical 
arrangements  of  the  university  of  Pavia.  The  library, 
into  which  we  were  next  introduced,  occupies  many 
large  rooms,  and  contains,  we  were  told,  at  least 
200,000  volumes.  It  is  scientifically  arranged.  In  the 
English  department,  is  a  complete  collection  of  the 
London  Philosophical  Transactions,  and  most  of  those 
of  Philadelphia.  It  includes  part  of  the  library  of  Hal- 
ler,  which,  with  his  herbarium,  was  purchased  by  the 
emperor,  for  2000  Louis  d'or,  and  divided  between 
this  city  and  Pavia.  In  the  room  appropriated  to  the 
fine  arts,  were  prize  essays  in  drawing,  painting,  and 
sculpture,  done  with  extraordinary  taste  and  neatness 
of  finish.  The  collection  of  statues  is  not  large.  I 
noticed  a  fine  marble  bust,  tres  ressemblant,  of  our  friend 
Count  Moscati.  The  modern  pictures  are  not  very 
numerous,  but  in  the  rooms  appropriated  to  ancient 
paintings,  is  a  rich  feast,  indeed,  for  the  connoisseur. 


472  MILAN. 

He  will  there  meet  with  some  of  the  finest  works  of 
the  great  masters  of  the  Italian  school.  Some  of 
the  pictures  are  very  large.  It  was  late  when  we 
went  in,  and  the  attendants  were  anxious  to  go  to 
their  dinners,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  make  only  a 
rapid  excursion  through  the  rooms,  and  without  taking 
time  to  examine  satisfactorily  a  single  piece.  A  good 
dinner  at  a  "  ristoratore,"  for  three  and  a  half  francs, 
completed  this  day's  adventure  in  Milan. 

23d.  We  called^  again  this  morning  at  Moscati's, 
for  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Pavia,  which  he  kindly 
offered  to  furnish  me  with.  The  porter  gave  me  two, 
one  to  myself,  pointing  out  the  objects  most  worthy 
of  attention,  in  Milan,  and  assuring  us  of  his  regard; 
and  another  to  Professor  Configliachi,  of  Pavia.  But 
as  the  porter  had  directions  not  to  let  us  go,  without 
informing  him,  we  were  again  introduced  to  the  ve- 
nerable philosopher,  sitting  in  bed.  He  would  not 
let  us  depart,  without  a  cup  of  chocolate,  and  a  little 
more  conversation,  on  subjects  of  science.  He  spoke 
in  high  terms  of  Dalton  and  Henry,  as  chemists.  In 
reference  to  the  former,  "  dites  lui,"  (said  he  to  my 
companion,  B.  D.)  "  non  seulement  que  je  le  lis,  mais, 
que  je  I'etude."  His  letter  informed  me,  that  he  is  in 
his  seventy-eighth  year. 

Having  left  our  names  yesterday,  at  the  rooms 
oT  Acerbi,  known  to  most  readers  as  the  author  of 
travels  to  the  North  Cape,  and  as  the  editor  of  an  Ita- 
lian journal  of  literature,  we  called  upon  him  this 
morning,  and  were  received  with  the  frankness  of  a 
man  acquainted  with  the  world,  and  knowing  the 
wants  of  travellers.  He  is  of  middle  age,  tall,  with 
a  comely  countenance,  and  a  dark  and  lively  eye. 


MILAN.  473 

We  conversed  in  his  library,  upon  various  topics, 
in  English,  which  he  speaks  unusually  v^^ell  for  a 
foreigner.  He  very  obligingly  agreed  to  conduct 
us  to  any  part  of  the  city,  and  proposed  a  visit  to 
the  prison,  or  Maison  de  Force.  Though  not  a  ma- 
nager of  the  institution,  he  takes  an  interest  in  its 
condition  and  progress.  We  were  admitted  without 
hesitation,  and  conducted  through  the  apartments,  by 
one  of  the  officers  of  the  house.  This  prison  was  es- 
tablished long  before  the  French  revolution,  but  much 
improved,  in  its  general  regulations,  during  the  Italian 
reign  of  Bonaparte.  Like  most  of  the  public  institu- 
tions we  have  seen,  it  includes,  besides  a  large  front, 
several  interior  square  courts.  There  were,  at  the 
time  of  our  visit,  432  prisoners,  only  44  of  whom  were 
females.  The  latter  are  kept  entirely  out  of  sight  of 
the  male  prisoners.  When  they  meet  in  the  chapel 
together,  at  mass,  once  a  week,  a  skreen  separates 
them.  The  rooms  are  large,  and  are  preserved  in  a 
state  of  cleanliness,  well  worthy  of  imitation.  The 
prisoners  are  all  kept  at  work.  The  only  employ- 
ments practised,  are  those  connected  with  the  manu- 
facture of  different  kinds  of  cloth  and  stuffs.  Those 
who  have  not  been  accustomed  to  this  labour,  soon 
learn  to  spin,  twist,  and  even  to  weave.  Labour  is  in- 
troduced more  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  the  evil 
effects  of  idleness,  and  as  the  means  of  reformation, 
than  as  a  relief  to  the  expenses  of  the  prison.  When 
this  prison  was  under  French  regulation,  one  third  of 
the  gains  went  to  the  house,  one  third  was  paid  month- 
ly to  the  prisoners,  and  the  remaining  third  was  given 
them,  at  the  time  of  their  discharge.  This  regulation 
has  been  annulled  by  the  Austrians,  and  the  whole  of 


474  MILAN. 

the  gains  now  goes  to  the  house,  the  labour  being  com- 
pulsory.* The  efTects  of  this  change,  the  conductor 
informed  us,  is  bad.  The  prisoner,  at  his  discharge, 
having  no  resource,  and  no  character,  too  often  com- 
mits a  crime,  in  order  to  get  back;  whereas,  it  was 
common  for  them,  formerly,  to  leave  the  prison  after 
five  or  six  years  confinement,  with  three  or  four  hun- 
dred francs.  The  Austrian  system,  is  much  disliked 
by  the  keepers.  The  boye,  or  younger  convicts,  are, 
in  this  prison,  kept  by  themselves/a  practice  worthy 
of  all  imitation.  They  receive,  every  day,  two  hours 
instruction  in  learning,  and  in  religion ;  but,  unfortu- 
nately, (as  1  think,)  their  instructor  is  a  priest,  who 
has  been  several  times  immured  in  the  house,  for  petty 
crimes.  How  much  better  to  have  an  instructor, against 
whom  there  is  no  such  imputation.  Some  of  the  work- 
ing apartments  of  the  prison  are  very  large.  In  one  of 
them,  were  220  persons,  mostly  engaged  in  spin- 
ning and  weaving;  but  the  room  is  divided  into  re- 
cesses, which,  in  some  measure,  obviates  the  objec- 
tion, to  too  free  an  intercourse  with  each  other.  One 
of  the  rooms  is  called  the  hard  prison.  It  receives  the 
worst  convicts,  and  serves  also  as  a  punishment  to  the 
refractory  in  the  other  rooms.  In  this  apartment, 
their  privations  are  greatly  increased.  Their  bed  is 
only  a  slanting  board,  without  either  straw,  or  a  pillow 
of  any  sort,  and  their  food  equally  coarse.  Their 
legs  are  kept  constantly  chained  together.  They 
sleep  two  in  a  room,  under  lock.  A  guard  is  con- 
tinually stationed  to  watch  them.  In  this  apartment, 
there  were  fifty-six  prisoners.     The  general  system  of 

*  The  female  prisoners  are,  however,  allowed  a  certain  sum  per  dav  i 
about  one  third,  as  I  understood,  of  common  out  door  wages. 


MILAN.  475 

this  institution  is  lenient.  The  more  orderly  go  out  on 
the  business  of  the  house,  to  market,  &c.  but  always 
under  the  eye  of  an  attendant.  The  female  apart- 
ments, resembled  more  those  of  a  decent  work-house, 
than  of  a  prison.  The  chief  nurse  of  the  infirmary,  is 
a  woman,  condemned,  as  a  commutation  for  death,  to 
twenty  years  imprisonment,  for  the  murder  of  her  hus- 
band, a  crime  which  was  committed  at  the  instigation 
of  a  priest.  Nineteen  of  the  twenty  years  have  ex- 
pired. Her  conduct  in  prison  has  been  very  exem- 
plary. The  infirmary,  in  point  of  cleanliness  and 
comfort,  looked  better  than  the  wards  of  some  hospi- 
tals we  have  seen.  Besides  mass,  the  prisoners  at- 
tend prayers,  twice  a  week.  In  taking  their  meals, 
they  do  not  place  themselves  at  table,  but  go  down 
into  a  court  in  companies,  receive  it  in  bowls,  and  eat 
standing  in  the  court,  or  seated  on  benches,  underco- 
ver from  the  weather.  Acerbi  informed  us,  that  the 
writings  of  Beccaria  have  had  great  influence  in  pro- 
ducing a  more  lenient  and  consistent  course  of  ma- 
nagement, in  the  prisons  of  Italy. 

He  next  conducted  us  to  the  School  of  Mines,  where 
a  person  in  attendance,  opened  to  us  a  cabinet  of  mi- 
nerals, of  tolerable  extent,  though  not  in  the  best  con- 
dition. The  Ichthyolites  were  the  largest,  finest,  and 
most  numerous,  I  have  seen  in  any  collection.  They 
are  from  Monte  Bolca,  in  the  Veronese  territory. 
Many  of  those  in  the  cabinets  of  Paris,  have  been 
supplied  from  the  same  place.  Elephant's  bones  are 
also  found  there,  a  great  number  of  which,  are  depo- 
sited in  the  school  at  Milan.  This  institution  is  pro- 
vided with  a  pretty  good  library  of  books,  on  minera- 
logy and  chemistry. 


476  MILAN. 

The  next  institution  to  which  our  friend  Acerbi  led 
MS,  is  called  //  Pio  Albergo  Trividzi^  or  the  pious  hos- 
pital of  Trivulzi.  It  is  an  asylum  for  poor  people, 
who  have  attained  the  age  of  70  years,  and  have  not 
the  means  to  support  themselves.  It  was  founded  in 
1771,  by  Trivulzi,  a  wealthy  citizen,  and  is  supported 
by  funds  left  by  him  for  the  purpose.  This  curious 
and  interesting  institution  contains  .050  of  these  Sep- 
tuagenaires.  about  one  half  of  whom  are  women.  The 
number  is  always  complete,  there  being,  as  we  were 
informed,  no  less  than  from  600  to  800  candidates  on 
the  list  for  admission,  when  a  place  is  vacated  by  the 
decease  of  any  one  of  this  family  of  ancients.  Among 
them  are  some  above  100  years  old,  and  several  above 
98.  About  one  quarter  of  the  whole  number  die  an- 
nually. They  are  fed  and  clothed,  as  well  as  lodged, 
without  cost  to  the  public.  The  men  are  dressed 
in  a  plain,  but  decent  and  respectable  style,  and  all 
alike.  In  walking  among  them,  and  observing  their 
.general  health,  and  the  ease  and  comfort  in  which 
they  live,  we  could  hardly  avoid  the  belief,  that  we 
were  in  a  family  of  ancient  worthies,  whom  brotherly 
concord  had  collected  into  one  domestic  circle,  and 
whose  temperate  and  pious  lives  had  qualified  them  to 

"  O'erleap  this  narrow  vulgar  span, 
And  live  beyond  the  life  of  man." 

They  are  not  obliged  to  labour,  but  many  of  them 
prefer  employment,  and  occupy  themselves  with  spin- 
ning, weaving,  and  knitting.  A  {e\\^  when  the  weather 
is  good,  work  in  the  garden.  The  women  voluntarily 
engage  in  spinning,  and  some  of  them  in  making  lace. 
They  all  eat  in  one  large  room,  which  was  formerly 
the  stable  of  the  benevolent  owner.     Their  breakfast 


Milan.  477 

and  dinner  consist  of  bread,  soup,  and  wine.  We 
found,  in  the  female  department,  a  woman  who  was  a 
native  of  Yorkshire,  England.  She  was  confined  to 
her  bed  by  infirmity,  but  conversed  with  us,  in  En- 
glish, with  much  earnestness  and  pleasure. 

The  collection  of  books,  paintings,  and  statuary, 
called  the  Ambrosian  library,  next  engaged  our  at- 
tention.    This  is  a  celebrated  and  very  interesting 
collection.     It  was  founded  by  Frederigo  Borromeo, 
nephew  of  San  Carlos,  whose  wealth  and  extensive 
connexions  enabled  him  to  obtain,  from  various  parts 
of  the  world,  literary  works,  and  curiosities  in  art,  of 
high  value.     Among  the  busts  and  figures  are  some 
fine  copies  from  Michael  Angelo,  and  in  the  room  of 
paintings,  is  one  of  the  cartoons  of  Raphael, — the 
SCHOOL  OF  Athens.     The  colouring  is  very  plain,  but 
the  spirit  of  the  design,  and  the  dignity  of  the  whole 
piece,  appeared  to  me  very  impressive,  and  I  could 
scarcely  avoid  the  belief  that  it  must  be  faithful  to 
nature.     This  picture  was  carried  to  Paris,  by  Bona- 
parte, but  was  returned  with  other  stolen  treasures,  at 
the  general  pacification.     The  King  of  France  offered 
100,000  francs  for  it,  without  success.     There  are  va- 
rious small  pieces  in  this  room,  of  very  fine  execution 
The  library  contains  about  40,000  volumes.     Though 
inferior  in  size  to  many  we  have  seen,  it  is  more  re« 
markable  for  containing  a  great  number  of  rare  and 
antique  books  and  manuscripts.     It  is  questionable, 
indeed,  whether  there  is  any  collection  in  Europe,  so 
rich  in  this  kind  of  treasure ;  and  it  is  only  within  a 
few  years  that  its  value  in  ancient  manuscripts  has 
been  duly  estimated.     A  learned  monk,  of  the  name 
of  Angelo  Ma'i,  has  recently  discovered  (as  we  were 
Vol.  J.  40 


178  MILAN. 

told  by  the  librarian)  a  greater  number  of  unpublished 
and  interesting  manuscripts  of  the  ancients  than  the 
city  of  Herculaneum  has  furnished,  since  its  ruins  have 
been  explored.  Several  of  these  he  has  clearly  made 
out,  and  published.  Among  them  are  five  or  six  ora- 
tions of  Cicero,  a  work  of  Dyonisius  of  Halicarnassus, 
and  a  book  of  Isocrates,  written  on  parchment.  We 
were  shown  Petrarch's  copy  of  Virgil — the  whole  writ- 
ten out  in  his  own  hand.  It  is  a  vellum  book,  of  com- 
mon folio  size ;  and  the  writing  is  executed  with  singu- 
lar neatness,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  ornament.  It  is 
enriched  with  the  notes  of  the  writer,  which  are  cu- 
rious and  interesting.  He  states,  in  one  of  them,  that 
he  had  that  day  attained  his  thirty-fourth  year,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  he  placed  his  own  likeness  at  the 
head  of  a  book  ;  and  he  proves  by  this  miniature,  that 
poetry  and  painting  are  not  incongruous  arts.  A  Latin 
copy  of  Josephus  was  also  shown  us,  written  on  pa- 
pyrus, in  the  second  century,  and  reputed  to  be  the 
oldest  manuscript  in  the  world.     It  is  very  tender.* 

We  left  our  friend  Acerbi,  with  sentiments  of  great 
regard,  and  of  gratitude  for  his  kind  attentions. 

24th.  We  prepared  this  morning  to  leave  Milan; 
and,  from  what  I  have  observed  of  it,  I  am  obliged  to 
pronounce  it  the  handsomest  city  I  have  seen  in  Eu- 
rope. The  houses  are  built  of  brick  and  stone,  but 
all  plaistered  on  the  outside,  and  they  preserve  their 
white  and  cleanly  appearance.  The  streets  are  in 
general  of  tolerable  width,  and  some  of  them  large 
and  elegant.    The  pavements  are  peculiar.    The  ma- 

*  The  Abb6  Mai  has  since  removed  to  Rome.  He  has  discovered,  among- 
the  ancient  manuscripts  in  the  library  of  the  Vatican,  a  number  of  inlerest- 
ing  productions,  unknown  to  the  moderns. 


MILAN.  479 

terials,  mostly  employed,  are  small  rolled  stones  or 
pebbles,  but  in  the  middle  of  the  streets  are  two  rows 
of  broad  flat  stones  for  the  wheels  to  run  on,  which 
give  an  easy  motion  to  the  carriages,  and  effectually 
prevent  noise.  The  houses  are  high,  and  a  large  pro- 
portion of  them  elegant.  The  females  are  much  more 
retired  here  than  in  France.  During  the  forenoon,  but 
few,  comparatively,  are  seen  in  the  streets.  Their 
dress  is  neat,  differing  very  little  from  that  which  is 
common  in  our  American  cities.  The  Milanese  ladies, 
(judging  from  those  I  saw,)  would  not  be  placed  in  the 
rank  of  the  beautiful,  either  in  England  or  America; 
nor  would  they  occupy  a  very  low  station  in  the  scale 
of  personal  charms.  They  are  of  good  size,  and  neat 
in  their  persons.  Their  complexion  is  that  of  a  deli- 
cate and  pleasing  brunette,  with  dark  and  lively  eyes. 
Their  manners  appeared  to  be  easy  and  graceful. 

Mendicity  (at  least  that  of  the  streets)  is  scarcely 
known  at  Milan,  in  consequence  of  recent  police  re- 
gulations, which  confine  the  indigent  to  parish  work- 
houses. The  system  of  mutual  instruction  has  not 
been  introduced,  though  we  were  informed  by  Acerbi, 
that  it  is  now  a  subject  of  conversation  in  the  town. 
The  poor,  however,  are  tauglit  at  the  public  expense; 
60  that  it  is  rather  uncommon  for  a  child  to  go  without 
an  education.  There  are  many  private  schools  in  Mi- 
lan, but  they  are  much  more  influenced  by  personal 
and  artificial  distinctions  than  in  America,  or  even  in 
England. 

The  population  of  Milan  is  about  1 30,000.  Its  prin- 
cipal trade  consists  in  grain,  rice,  silks,  and  cheese. 
The  latter  is  chiefly  of  the  kind  called,  in  the  country, 
de  Grana,  but  the  term  Parmesan  is  given  to  it  in  many 


480  MILAN. 

other  places.  The  commerce  of  the  town  with  neigh- 
bouring districts,  is  effected  very  much  by  canals.  The 
city  is  surrounded  by  a  double  wall,  which  has  a  cir- 
cuit of  about  nine  miles.  Many  of  the  trades  are  con- 
ducted each  in  a  distinct  quarter.  In  one  street  there 
are  more  than  a  hundred  jeweller's  shops;  some  of 
which  are  extremely  rich,  affording  an  evident  proof 
of  the  opulence  of  the  city. 

Having  engaged  a  voiturier,  to  take  us  to  Genoa, 
for  nine  Napoleons,  (three  each,)  and  to  furnish  us 
with  provisions  as  before,  we  left  Milan,  at  seven, 
with  no  company  but  our  own.  The  road  lay  upon 
the  side  of  a  large  and  very  fine  canal,  called  the  JYa- 
viglio.  As  the  country,  through  which  it  extends,  is 
very  level,  we  saw  but  few  locks,  but  those  appeared 
to  be  exceedingly  well  constructed.  From  this  main 
canal,  water  courses  are  carried  into  the  fields,  and 
distributed,  so  as  to  produce  an  ample  irrigation  in 
dry  seasons.  The  mulberry  is  extensively  cultivated 
in  the  plains  of  Lombardy.  The  road  along  the  canal 
was  iln  the  best  order.  An  Italian  gentleman  joined 
us,  for  a  short  distance,  at  a  village,  through  which  we 
passed,  and  we  found  him  a  pleasant  agreeable  man. 
He  stopped  with  us  at  the  village  of  Certusa,  and  we 
walked  to  the  church  of  la  Chartreuse,an  edifice  which 
attracts  the  curiosity  of  numerous  travellers.  It  con- 
stitutes part  of  a  celebrated  monastery,  situated  about 
three  miles  from  Pavia,  and  at  some  distance  from  the 
high  road.  We  approached  it  through  a  wide  and 
beautiful  avenue  of  tilias  and  poplars,  which  ended  in 
a  spacious  court,  with  the  superb  front  of  the  church 
in  white  marble,  full  before  us.  This  convent,  one  of 
the  richest  in  Europe,  was  suppressed  by  Joseph  II. 


CERTUSA.  '181 

of  Austria.     It  supported  but  twenty-six  monks,  each 
of  whom  had  a  neat  little  habitation,  containing  seve- 
ral apartments,  and  a  small  garden.    These  dwellings 
are  connected  together,  round  a  square  area,  each 
opening  into  a  corridor  or  piazza.     The  church  of  the 
convent,  "  Maria  de  la  Grazie,"  is  one  of  the  very 
richest  in  Europe.     Besides  the  principal  altar,   at 
which  the  priest  officiates  for  the  benefit  of  the  spec- 
tators assembled  in  the  grand  aisle,  there  are,  next 
the  walls,  seventeen  private  compartments,  with  each 
an  altar  and  altar-piece.     In  all  of  these,  as  well  as  in 
the  main  building,  there  are  fine  and  costly  paintings. 
The  richness  of  the  building  consists  (in  addition  to 
its  marble  architecture)  in  the  wealth  lavished  upon 
the  altars.     Besides  the  finest  marble,  of  almost  every 
variety  which  Italy  affords,  precious  stones,  of  the 
most  elegant  hue  and  polish,  are  used  to  decorate  this 
temple   of  private  Christian  worship!      They   consist 
chiefly  of  carnelians,  agates,  and  the  lapis  lazuli.   The 
principal  altar  has  the  noble  garnet,finely  crystallized, 
distributed  among  the  other  gems.     In  a  retired  part 
of  the  building  is  an  altar,  formed  entirely  of  ivory 
derived  from  the  hippopotamus.     It  consists  of  finely 
wrought,  carved  representations  of  the  principal  events 
of  the  Old  Testament  history.     The  inscription  on 
this  church,  is  "■  Marise  Virgine  Matri  filie  sponse  Dei.'* 
It  serves  at  present,  I  believe,  no  other  purpose  than 
as  a  place  where  mass  is  said  to  a  few  peasants,  and 
as  an  object  of  curiosity  to  visiters,  who  naturally  wish 
to  stop  half  an  hour  to  look  at  this  splendid  monument 
ii{  monkish  extravagance  and  superstition.     By  the 
suppression  of  this  monastery  about  £20.000  sterling 
^xer  annum  passed  to  the  government. 

40* 


482  pAVfA. 

On  our  approach  to  Pavia,  we  passed  the  ruins  of 
a  park  of  twenty  miles  in  circumference,  in  which 
the  famous  battle  was  fought  between  Charles  V.  and 
Francis  I.,  which  ended  in  the  total  overthrow  of 
the  latter  monarch.  The  captured  king,  it  is  said, 
was  taken  to  the  Abbey  of  Certusa,  and  entering  the 
church  while  the  monks  were  chanting  the  one  hun- 
dred and  nineteenth  Psalm,  he  immediately  joined 
the  choir  in  the  seventy-first  verse — "  It  is  good  for 
me  that  I  have  been  afflicted ;  that  I  might  learn  thy 
statutes." 

We  arrived  at  Pavia  at  ten  o'clock,  and  after 
dining,  called  to  deliver  our  letter  of  introduction  to 
Professor  Configliachi,  who  is  also  vice  president  of 
the  university.  1  received,  at  the  inn,  the  unpleasant 
intelligence  of  the  death  of  Brugnatelli,  professor  of 
chemistry.  He  died  about  three  hours  before  our 
arrival,  after  an  illness  of  a  month.  Not  finding  Con- 
figliachi at  his  lodgings,  we  took  a  gar^on,  and  were 
conducted  to  the  public  rooms  of  the  university. 
The  first  object  of  our  attention  was  the  museum. 
This  occupies  a  very  large  apartment,  and  contains 
a  remarkably  fine  collection  of  objects  in  natural  his- 
tory, all  accurately  classed  according  to  the  Linnean 
system.  In  the  animal  kingdom,  it  is  very  rich  and 
valuable,  containing,  besides  the  animals  in  their  per- 
fect state,  a  great  variety  of  lusus  naturae.  A  lamb, 
with  one  eye  in  the  centre  of  his  forehead ;  a  dog, 
with  two  heads,  three  eyes,  and  four  hind  legs;  a 
double  egg ;  a  goose  with  two  heads,  and  four  legs  ; 
a  large  and  perfectly  white  peacock, — were  among 
fhe  deviations  from  the  order  of  nature.  I  noticed  the 
Palamedea  Cornuta,  a  bird  of  Cayenne,  with  a  ho.ni 


PAViA.  483 

of  considerable  length  at  the  elbow  of  each  wing,  and 
another  large  horn  on  the  head.  A  large  hippopota- 
mus, an  elephant,  and  several  other  animals  in  good 
preservation,  occupy  the  central  parts  of  the  room- 
In  entomology,  the  collection  is  remarkably  rich, 
more  especially  in  aquatic  insects.  The  minerals 
fill  two  or  three  rooms,  one  of  considerable  size 
being  consigned  to  the  metals  alone.  In  the  princi- 
pal room,  there  is  a  double  collection, — one  on  the 
walls  arranged  according  to  Linnaeus,  and  one  in  the 
centre  on  the  system  of  the  Abbe  Haiiy.  Among 
the  specimens  of  asbestos,  are  two  large  gloves  made 
of  that  material.  They  are  very  heavy  and  cold 
when  put  on  the  hand. 

The  university  is  indebted  for  this  large  and  valu- 
able museum,  chiefly  to  the  industry,  zeal,  and  talent 
of  Spallanzani,  who  was  its  professor  of  natural  his- 
tory. This  great  naturalist  died  in  this  town  in 
1799. 

The  library  of  the  university  contains  about  85,000 
volumes,  including  most  of  the  splendid  works  pub- 
lished in  France  during  Napoleon's  sway.  The  ana- 
tomical  museum  is  in  three  apartments,  viz.  Compa- 
rative Anatomy,  Human  Anatomy  and  Pathology^ 
and  Surgical  Instruments  and  Bandages.  Two  full 
sized  wax  figures,  male  and  female,  illustrative  of  the 
whole  system  of  circulation,  made  by  Fontana,  in  the 
first  rate  style  of  neatness,  grace  this  collection.  The 
anatomical  theatre  is  semicircular,  with  a  lofty  ceil- 
ing. The  seats  are  wide  and  convenient.  The 
walls  and  ceiling  of  this  room,  as  well  as  most  of 
the  others,  are  painted  in  fresco.  The  dissecting 
room  attached  to  the  theatre,  is  ample  and  commo- 
dious. 


484  PAViA. 

Wc  called  at  five  on  Configliachi,  and  found  him  at 
home.  He  occupies  rooms  in  an  old  convent.  The 
first  into  vvliich  we  were  introduced,  contained  a  long 
table,  aparently  for  biUiards ;  an  amusement  at  which, 
it  is  probable,  the  professors  relax  a  little  from  the 
severity  of  science,  though  1  can  affirm  nothing  posi- 
tive on  this  head.  He  received  us  aflTably,  and  enter- 
ed immediately  into  an  easy  and  communicative  style 
of  conversation  in  French.  He  is  about  thirty-five, 
tail,  and  with  an  open  countenance.  We  spent  half 
an  hour,  and  accepted  an  invitation  to  breakfast  with 
him  the  next  morning. 

25th.  At  eight  we  waited  on  Configliachi,  and  took  a 
breakfast  on  "caflfe  au  lait,"  after  which  he  conducted 
us  to  the  cabinet  of  natural  philosophy,  in  the  univer- 
sity. He  showed  me  several  numbers  of  the  scienti- 
fic journal,  published  by  himself  and  Brugnatelli,  and 
spoke  of  the  death  of  the  latter,  as  a  great  loss  to  the 
university.  The  apparatus  chamber  is  very  large,  and, 
after  going  through  our  examination  of  the  collection, 
I  must  acknowledge  it  to  be  one  of  the  best,  for  prac- 
tical purposes,  1  have  yet  seen.  The  instruments  are 
not  in  that  style  of  splendour,  and  show,  which  dis- 
tinguish some  of  the  Paris  collections,  but  they  are,  I 
think,  more  multiplied,  and  more  generally  adapted  to 
science.  They  are  preserved  in  glass  cases,  of  ches- 
nut  wood,  the  top  of  each  case  being  marked  with 
that  branch  of  physics  which  the  apparatus  it  con- 
tains is  intended  to  illustrate.  The  optical  instru- 
ments are  very  various.  One  room  is  appropriated  to 
optical  experiments,  being  painted  black,  and  having 
but  one  window.  A  pair  of  double  bellows,  were 
shown  us  by  Configliachi,  contrived  by  himself,  by 
which  inspiration  and  expiration  are  alternately  pro- 


PAVIA.  485 

duced,  by  the  same  act  of  blowing.  They  are  intend- 
ed as  an  improvement  on  the  instrument  commonly 
used  in  cases  of  asphyxia.  The  lecture  room,  for  na- 
tural philosophy,  is  a  handsome  apartment,  well  seat- 
ed, and  with  painted  walls  and  ceiling.  On  one  side 
of  the  room,  is  a  statue  of  Gallileo  Gallilei,  and  on  the 
opposite,  one  of  Benneventino.  The  figures  of  New- 
ton and  Franklin,  are  also  exhibited,  in  has  relief.  In 
a  room  below.  Professor  C.  showed  us  the  apparatus 
used  by  the  teachers  of  the  principles  of  engineering. 
It  contained  large  models  of  canals,  with  locks  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  pile  engines,  hydraulic  machines,  &;c. 
On  taking  us  into  the  room  for  examinations,  "  voila,'" 
said  he,  "  ou  on  forge  les  docteurs."  This  university 
is  large,  and  in  high  repute.  The  number  of  students 
that  annually  attend,  is  from  eight  hundred  to  a  thou- 
sand. As  in  most  of  the  colleges  and  universities  on 
the  continent,  they  do  not  live  in  common,  but  board 
in  the  town.  The  professors  are  divided  into  three 
faculties :  Firsts  Legale  Politica,  including  the  prin- 
ciples of  commerce,  navigation,  statistics,  political 
economy,  and  civil  law.  Second^  Medico-Chirurgico- 
Farmaceutica  ;  and  Thirds  ¥  liposome  a..  In  the  first  of 
these  faculties,  there  is  a  professor  of  civil  and  cri- 
minal law ;  a  professor  of  the  statistics  of  Europe  in 
general,  and  of  Austria  in  particular;  a  professor  of 
rural  economy ;  a  professor  of  Roman  law ;  a  profes- 
sor of  ecclesiastical  law ;  a  professor  of  the  universal 
civil  law  of  Austria,  and  of  the  difference  between  it 
and  the  French  law ;  a  professor  of  the  mercantile  law 
of  Austria ;  a  professor  of  political  science,  with  an 
explicationof  the  Austrian  penal  code;  and  a  profes- 
sor of  the  practice  of  courts,  notaries,  &;c.     In  the  se- 


486  PAViA. 

cond  faculty,  there  is  a  professor  of  the  introduction  to 
the  study  of  medicine  and  surgery ;  a  professor  of  hu- 
man anatomy;  a  professor  of  mineralogy ;  a  professor 
of  botany  ;  a  professor  of  zoology ;  a  professor  of 
comparative  anatomy,  and  physiology;  a  professor  of 
chemistry,  general,  animal,  and  pharmaceutical;  a 
professor  of  general  pathology,  causes,  and  symptoms ; 
a  professor  of  dietetics,  pharmaceutical  symbols,  and 
materia  medica;  a  professor  of  the  introduction  to, 
and  theory  of  surgery ;  a  professor  of  theoretical  ob- 
stetrics, and  exercises  with  the  obstetrical  machine; 
a  professor  of  theoretical  and  practical  instructions 
upon  diseases  of  the  eye;  a  professor  of  special  the- 
rapeutics, of  internal  diseases,  and  of  clinical  me- 
dicine ;  a  professor  of  veterinary  science  ;  a  professor 
of  legal  medicine  and  medical  politics;  a  professor  of 
physiology,  general  pathology,  and  therapeutics;  a 
professor  of  practical  and  clinical  surgery ;  and  a  pro- 
fessor of  remedies  for  asphyxia.  The  third  faculty, 
comprehends  a  professor  of  religious  instruction ;  a 
professor  of  the  theory  of  philosophy  ;  a  professor  of 
the  elements  of  pure  mathematics  ;  a  professor  of  uni- 
versal history;  a  professor  of  the  Greek  language;  a 
professor  of  experimental  and  general  physics ;  a  pro- 
fessor of  practical  and  moral  philosophy;  a  professor 
of  the  higher  Latin  classics  ;  a  professor  of  the  history 
of  the  Austrian  States  of  Germany  and  Italy;  a  pro- 
fessor of  natural  history;  a  professor  of  Greek  philo- 
logy ;  a  professor  of  pedagogia  ;  a  professor  of  the 
higher  mathematics,  or  sublime  calculus;  a  professor 
of  physico-mathematics  ;  a  professor  of  architecture ; 
a  professor  of  mathematical  astronomy;  a  professor 
of  integral  and  differential  calculus ;  and  a  professor 


PAViA.  487 

of  idrometria  and  geodesia.  This  very  remarkable 
course  of  instruction,  is  conducted  by  thirty-three  pro- 
fessors, only  one  of  whom  occupies  a  station  in  two 
distinct  facuhies ;  but  some  of  them  must,  of  course, 
hold  several  stations  in  the  same  faculty.  I  know  not 
what  some  of  the  great  universities  of  Germany  may 
do,  in  the  way  of  a  sub-division  of  human  knowledge, 
but  if  the  students  of  this  school,  do  not  turn  out  learn- 
ed men,  it  will  not,  I  think,  be  for  want  of  a  classifica- 
iion^  of  the  objects  of  their  pursuit.  I  have  extracted 
the  list  from  a  printed  paper,  of  the  present  year,  gi- 
ven me  by  Configliachi. 

There  are  several  emeritian  professors,  some  of 
whom  reside  at  the  university.  Of  these,  three  are 
directors,  viz.  Tamburini,  of  the  faculty  of  law ;  Scar- 
pa, of  medicine ;  and  Volta,  of  philosophy.  It  wa? 
with  much  regret  I  learned,  that  in  consequence  o^ 
the  existing  vacation  of  the  school,  the  two  latter  di- 
rectors were  absent  from  Pavia.  Volta,  was  on  a  visit 
at  Como,  his  former  residence.  To  have  seen  men  of 
so  much  distinction,  in  their  respective  departments 
of  science,  could  not  fail  to  increase  the  number  of  a 
travellers  agreeable  recollections.  In  consequence 
of  the  recent  death  of  Brugnatelli,  the  laboratory  was 
not  accessible.  It  is  at  present  at  some  distance  from 
the  university,  but  measures  are  now  in  hand,  to  es- 
tablish the  chemical  rooms  within  the  walls,  and  in 
an  improved  form.  The  buildings  of  this  large  insti- 
tution, are  conformable  to  the  very  general  arrange- 
ment of  hollow  squares,  with  corridors,  next  to  the 
court,  in  every  story.  There  are  four  of  these  courts 
within  the  enclosure  of  the  university.  This  adds 
greatly  to  the  pleasantness  and  convenience  of  the 


488  PAViA. 

rooms,  though  it  must,  I  think,  be  a  much  more  expen- 
sive mode  of  building,  than  that  of  one  or  more  de- 
tached and  compact  houses.  There  are,  besides  the 
university,  several  colleges  in  Pavia.  One  of  these 
was  established  by  a  former  Pope,  and  contains  ac- 
commodations for  160  students.  We  visited  another, 
founded  by  Charles  Borromeus,  and  which  is  called 
after  him.  This  college  contains  a  large  hall,  the 
ceiling  of  which  is  painted,  in  a  flourishing  style  of 
design  and  colouring,  all  in  honour  of  San  Carlos. 
Thirty-six  students  only,  are  educated  in  this  institu- 
tion, but  they  are  clothed,  lodged,  fed,  and  instructed, 
entirely  by  the  funds  of  the  college,  and  in  a  building, 
which,  from  its  size  and  convenience,  might  easily  ac- 
commodate thrice  the  number.  A  third  college,  which 
we  did  not  visit,  contains  eighteen  students. 

Attached  to  the  University  is  a  hospital,  which,  on 
the  morning  of  our  visit,  included  277  patients.  We 
found  it  in  excellent  condition,  the  patients  well 
classed,  and  the  wards  and  other  apartments,  clean 
and  comfortable.  The  kitchen  and  laboratory  ap- 
peared to  be  managed  with  superior  judgment.  At- 
tached to  the  latter,  is  a  lecture  room,  in  which  in- 
struction is  given  to  the  students  in  pharmaceutical 
chemistry.  The  furnaces  and  chemical  apparatus 
appeared  in  good  order.  The  soup  made  in  the 
kitchen  was  improved  by  the  grating  of  the  bread. 
The  machine  used  for  this  purpose,  is  simple  and  in- 
genious. A  wooden  box  contains  a  cylindrical  grater 
of  tin,  which  turns  by  a  winch  and  handle.  The  loaf 
is  stuck  upon  a  wooden  bar,  and  pressed  against  the 
grater  by  the  action  of  a  heavy  weight,  which  can 
be  lessened  or  increased  at  pleasure.     The  opera- 


LOMBARDY.  489 

tion  is  very  expeditious  and  effectual.  There  is  also 
a  good  library  in  the  hospital,  in  the  chamber  of 
which  is  a  tableau,  executed  under  the  direction  of 
Scarpa,  exhibiting  the  appearances  of  the  eye,  in  all 
the  forms  of  disease  to  which  it  is  liable. 

Pavia  contains  about  22,000  inhabitants.  It  is  an 
ancient,  but  handsome  town.  Several  high  towers 
remain  in  it  in  good  condition,  the  relics  of  Gothic 
taste.  They  are  applied  to  no  important  use,  nor  is 
it  easy  to  conceive,  for  what  purpose  they  were  de- 
signed. 

We  set  off  for  Genoa  with  an  addition  of  four 
or  five  passengers,  who  had  arrived  from  Milan  in 
the  morning.  We  crossed  the  river  Tessin,  or  Tici- 
no,  on  a  long,  covered,  wooden  bridge.  This  river, 
which  communicates  with  Milan  by  the  canal  before 
mentioned,  is  too  shallow  to  admit  of  any  other 
navigation  than  boats  of  moderate  size.  Rice  is ' 
cultivated  in  large  quantities  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Pavia;  the  facility  of  irrigation  and  the  general 
level  of  the  country,  contributing  essentially  to  the 
means  of  its  production.  Soon  after  crossing  the 
river,  we  entered  the  Sardinian  territory.  Our  pass- 
ports were  again  examined,  and  our  journey  was  re- 
tarded nearly  an  hour,  in  consequence  of  a  box  of 
merchandise,  which  belonged  to  one  of  the  passen- 
gers, it  appeared,  at  this  place,  that  two  of  our 
company  were  inhabitants  of  Florence ;  one  was  a 
Genoese,  another  a  Swiss,  and  a  third  a  trader,  who 
spoke  Italian,  French,  and  German.  One  of  the 
Florentines  was  a  Count  Petro  p******,  a  man  of 
about  thirty-five,  and  the  other  his  cara  arnica^  whom 
he  was  conducting  to  Genoa.     She  was  older  than 

Vol.  k  41 


490  RIVER  PO. 

himself,  but  of  a  singularly  clear  and  blooming  com- 
plexion, and  a  bright  dark  eye.  She  spoke  French 
fluently,  her  cicisbeo  not  so  well.  The  Swiss  was  a 
pleasant  young  man  from  Nyon,  who  had  resided 
some  time  in  Italy,  and  was  occupied  chiefly  as  an 
agent  for  commercial  houses. 

We  crossed  the  river  Po  about  three  o'clock,  on  a 
bridge  of  boats.  The  country  along  its  border  is 
flat  and  not  very  fertile.  There  is  no  village,  nor 
even  a  single  house  at  the  bridge,  except  a  habitation 
on  the  middle  of  it,  which  serves  as  a  lodging  for  the 
toll-gatherer.  The  river  is  so  wide,  as  to  require  fifty- 
three  large  boats  for  the  support  of  this  bridge. 
These  are  placed  abreast  of  each  other,  and  fastened 
by  chains  to  smaller  boats,  which  are  anchored  at  a 
short  distance  up  the  stream.  The  banks  of  this 
river,  at  least  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this  bridge, 
have  nothing  of  that  picturesque  character  which  is 
so  commonly  ascribed  to  Italian  scenery.  We  saw 
nothing  that  would  justify  the  second  line  of  Pope's 
couplet, 

O'er  golden  sands  let  rich  Pactolus  flow, 
And  trees  weep  amber  on  the  banks  of  Po. 

We  reached  Voghere,  a  frontier  town  of  Sardinia, 
about  dark,  and  found  good  quarters.  My  friends 
and  myself  took  a  room,  where  we  had  a  fire  and 
supper  to  ourselves ;  not  finding  in  the  conversation 
of  our  stage  company,  any  thing  to  compensate  for 
the  loss  of  an  evening,  which  might  be  devoted  to 
our  books  or  pens. 

26th.  We  were  called  up  at  half  past  three.  The 
country  continued  to  be  level,  and  notwithstanding 


JOURNEY  TO  GENOA.  491 

the  long  continuance  of  dry  weather,  water  was  per- 
colating the  fields  through  artificial  fiirrows  and  pre- 
serving the  ground  sufficiently  moist  for  a  lively  vege- 
tation. There  were  more  women  at  work  in  the 
fields  than  men.  The  labouring  men,  or  at  least  the 
poorer  sort,  in  all  the  parts  of  Italy  that  we  have 
travelled  through,  go  bare  legged.  They  wear 
breeches  but  no  stockings,  frequently  with  shoes,  but 
often  without.  This  mode  of  dress  gives  them  a  mean 
appearance. 

In  the  course  of  this  morning's  ride,  we  passed  very 
near  the  plain  of  Marengo,  where  was  acted  one  of 
those  high  tragedies,  with  which  Bonaparte  so  often 
amused  and  flattered  the  great  nation.  The  play  of 
Marengo  was  highly  glorious,  for  it  placed  the  iron 
crown  on  the  head  of  the  chief  actor.  Fifteen  thou- 
sand Austrian  subjects  left  upon  the  field,  and  a  cor- 
responding number  of  French,  was  part  of  the  exhi- 
bition; but  what  was  that,  to  the  joy  felt  in  Paris  at 
the  possession  of  the  iron  crown !  But  where  are 
now  the  crown,  the  actor,  and  the  glory  of  the  tri- 
omph  ? 

"  Sic  transit  gloria  mundi !" 

Our  road  led  us  through  Tortona,  a  pretty  large 
town,  where  was  formerly,  a  very  strong  fortification 
and  a  garrison  of  10,000  men.  The  fortification  no 
longer  exists,  and  the  garrison  is  dispersed,  leaving  the 
town,  in  my  opinion,  safer  than  it  was  before.  But  it 
will  be  long,  probably  very  long,  before  nations  will 
be  convinced  that  a  hostile  attitude  only  invites  ag- 
gression, and  that  the  art  of  war  is  but  the  art  of  self- 
injury  or  self-destruction. 


492  JOURNEY  FROM  MILAN 

From  Tortona  we  travelled  many  miles  upon  a 
road  constructed  by  order  of  Napoleon.  It  showed 
the  same  attention  to  stability  and  permanency,  which 
characterizes  his  other  improvements  of  this  nature. 
The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  country,  and  in- 
deed those  of  Tortona,  are  swarthy  and  badly  dress- 
ed. There  is  a  manifest  difference  between  their 
appearance,  and  that  of  the  inhabitants  of  Austrian 
Italy,  which  is  much  in  favonr  of  the  latter.  Figs 
were  seen  this  morning  growing  in  the  open  ground. 
The  principal  crops  are  wheat,  rye  and  rice.  We 
dined  at  Novi,  a  pretty  large  town,  with  high  houses 
and  narrow,  dirty  streets.  We  were  furnished  how- 
ever with  a  good  dinner,  and  good  attendance. 

The  Appenines  presented  themselves  to  our  view- 
on  leaving  this  place,  and  the  road  very  soon  became 
rough  and  hilly. 

The  villages  through  which  we  passed,  present 
nothing  of  the  cleanly  and  comfortable  appparance 
of  our  American  country  towns.  In  the  article  of 
comfort,  these  people  are  at  least  a  century  behind 
the  United  States.  Is  it  possible  that  the  bulk  of  a 
nation  ought  to  ask  its  king,  whether  they  are  to  be 
happy  or  wretched  }  The  fault  is  certainly  not  in  the 
soil  or  the  climate.  Fruit  is  raised  in  abundance  and 
exposed  for  sale  in  great  variety  at  every  place.  It 
appears  however  to  be  within  the  reach  of  very  few; 
not  because  it  is  dear,  but  because  there  are  so  ma- 
ny who  have  nothing  to  buy  with.  We  had  this  day 
a  curious,  but  perhaps  not  an  uncommon,  specimen 
of  manners,  strictly  Italian,  in  the  general  conduct  of 
Count  Petro  p******,  and  his  amorosa.  It  was  mark- 
ed by  the  most  devoted  attention  on  his  part,  and  aa 


TO   GENOA.  493 

almost  incessant  prattle  on  hers.  Nothing  but  the 
melodious  accents  of  the  Italian  language,  which  ope- 
rates upon  the  ear  like  music,  could  reconcile  us  to 
such  company.  However,  one  of  the  advantages  of  a 
public  carriage,  is  the  lesson  which  it  affords,  in  the 
practical  knowledge  of  our  species.  This  woman 
had  left  a  husband  in  Florence,  and  with  his  consent 
was  taking  this  journey.  She  had  a  son  grown  up, 
and  holding  a  place,  as  we  were  told,  in  the  Pope's 
life  guards  ;  and  yet  was  she  travelling  through  the 
country  with  this  count,  apparently,  from  no  other 
motive  than  that  of  pleasure !  We  passed  Gavi,  a 
town  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains ;  and,  as  the  night 
was  beginning  to  close  upon  us,  arrived  at  Voltaggio 
to  lodge. 

27th.  We  departed  early,  and  had  a  long  ascent. 
These  mountains  are  different  in  their  features  from 
the  Alps,  more  broken,  much  more  devoid  of  strati- 
fied rocks,  more  conglomerate,  as  if  heaped  up  in 
haste,  or  formed  by  some  tumultuous  deposition. 
This  part  of  the  Appenines  appears,  too,  to  be  less 
productive  of  grass,  than  the  valleys  of  the  Alps. 

It  was  not  far  from  noon,  when,  reaching  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Bochetta,  one  of  the  highest  of  the  maritime 
Appenines,  we  obtained  a  full  and  fine  view  of  the 
Mediterranean,  with  several  ships  under  full  sail, 
moving  upon  it.  The  sight  greatly  animated  our 
spirits,  and  stimulated  our  imaginations,  for  here  we 
were  certainly  on  classic  ground.  The  road  being 
extremely  rough,  we  walked  a  long  distance  down  the 
mountain.  At  Campomarone,  a  little  village,  we 
stopped  to  dine,  but  alas  for  our  mountain  apetites^ — 
it  was  St.  Simon's  day ;  and  to  try  the  fidelity  of  his 

41  * 


494  '^JOURNEY  FROM  MILAN 

believers,  it  was  ordered  that  they  should  abstain 
from  meat.  Our  inn,  therefore,  could  afford  no- 
thing but  eggs  and  fresh  anchovies,  with  coffee  and 
bread  and  butter.  The  anchovies  being  to  me,  in 
their  fresh  state,  a  new  dish,  I  was  willing,  for  once,  to 
conform  to  the  calendar,  and  have  nothing  to  do,  with 
either  beef,  mutton,  or  pork.  The  dishes,  especially 
the  anchovies,  were  good,  and  we  fared,  probably, 
quite  as  well  as  those  who  paid  no  regard  to  saints. 
On  leaving  this  place  our  Italian  count  got  into  a  fu- 
rious passion  with  the  Genoese  passenger,  for  not  lea- 
ving the  seat  the  latter  had  occupied  in  the  cabriolet 
the  whole  journey,  and  allow  him  to  take  it,  that  he 
might  be  along  side  of  his  dulcinea,  who  had  chosen  to 
place  herself  in  front,  and  ride,  for  a  while,  indepen- 
dently of  her  gallant.  But  his  jealousy  wotild  not 
suffer  this.  He  ordered  the  man  from  his  seat,  which 
the  latter  refused  to  comply  with.  He  then  directed 
the  lady  to  come  down ;  and  after  many  remonstran- 
ces, she  thought  best  to  yield,  and  resume  her  sta- 
tion in  the  coach ;  but  he  was  so  highly  oflfended  as 
to  refuse  to  get  in,  and  we  set  off  without  him.  He 
walked  sulkily  along,  for  some  time,  till  one  or  two  of 
the  passengers,  out  of  compassion  for  the  woman,  got 
out  and  tried  to  sooth  him.  He  came  up,  and 
burst  out  again  into  such  a  fit  of  passion  at  the  unof- 
fending passenger,  that  had  not  the  others  interfered, 
iie  would  have  thrown  a  large  stone  at  his  head.  He 
became  more  calm  by  degrees,  and  at  length  got  into 
the  coach.  Such  was  the  conduct  of  a  man  bearing  the 
title  of  count ;  and  such  is  the  dominion  of  passion, 
when  it  is  suffered  habitually  to  overstep  the  bounds 
of  morality.     Near  Camporaarona,  we  passed  the  lit- 


TO    GENOA.  495 

tie  river  Polcevera,  and  travelled  on  an  excellent 
road,  made  at  the  expense  of  the  family  of  Cambiaso, 
when  a  noble  of  that  family  was  Doge  of  Genoa.  We 
met,  on  this  road,  an  astonishing  number  of  mules  and 
asses,  conveying  goods  from  Genoa,  in  large  boxes 
suspended  on  each  side  of  the  animals.  Excepting 
liquors  and  groceries,  the  transport  of  merchandise 
from  that  town  to  the  interior,  is  effected  on  the 
backs  of  these  diminutive  creatures.  The  valley  of 
the  Polcevera,  and  the  vicinity  of  Genoa,  are  ex- 
tremely interesting  from  the  number  of  large  and 
elegant  country  houses  of  its  wealthy  citizens,  and  the 
picturesque  situations  in  which  they  are  placed.  On 
the  top  of  a  high  hill  is  a  church  dedicated  to  "  JVo- 
tre  Dame  del  Mare^  Thither  the  sailors  and  ship 
owners,  who  believe  in  the  protection  of  the  saints, 
climb,  to  prefer  their  supplications  for  the  success  of 
their  adventures  on  the  boisterous  deep.  To  propi- 
tiate more  effectually  the  favour  of  the  Virgin,  the 
seamen  often  bring  presents  to  her  shrine,  of  some 
part  of  their  cargo,  or  of  ropes,  blocks,  old  sails,  and 
other  moveable  parts  of  the  ship ! 

The  sea,  as  we  approached  it,  was  quite  calm. 
The  lighthouse,  a  high  tower  on  the  brink  of  the  wa- 
ter, is  a  conspicuous  and  beautiful  object,  and  the 
view  of  the  city  of  Genoa,  as  we  advanced  along  the 
shore,  was  truly  grand.  It  is  built  at  the  bottom  of 
a  bay,  from  the  circumference  of  which,  rises,  in  ra- 
pid ascent,  an  amphitheatre  of  abrupt  and  high  hills, 
which  art  has  converted  into  gardens,  and  ornamen- 
ted with  houses,  many  of  which  are  elegant  and  sump- 
tuous. It  is  surrounded  by  two  walls, — one  enclosing 
the  city  only,  within  the  circumference  of  six  miles: 


496  GENOA. 

while  the  other  comprehends  a  number  of  hills,  villas, 
and  fortresses,  and  has  a  circuit  of  thirteen  miles. 

We  passed  the  gates  without  difficulty  from  the 
gens  d'arms,  a  franc  from  one  of  the  passengers, 
being  sufficient  to  convince  them  that  it  was  unne- 
cessary to  unlock  our  trunks  and  examine  their  con- 
tents. At  the  Hotel  de  Londres,  situated  immediate- 
ly on  the  bay,  we  were  accommodated  with  a  good 
chamber  in  the  seventh  story. 


LETTER   XVn. 

Marseilles^  llth  months  (JVovember')  3,  1818. 

My  dear  *****, 

At  Milan  the  air  was  so  cool  as  to  render  afire  in  our 
chamber  necessary  to  comfort;  but  we  enjoyed,  this 
morning  (the  28th,)  the  mildness  of  a  fine  day  in  spring. 

Having  engaged  a  cicerone,  we  called  first  on 

T*****,  an  English  merchant,  who  has  been  some 
time  settled  here,  and  to  whom  one  of  my  companions 
had  a  letter  of  introduction.  He  lives  in  a  kind  of 
palace, — a  house  with  a  large  interior  court,  a  wide 
and  lofty  staircase,  and  numerous  rooms.  Of  these 
large  buildings  there  are  many  in  Genoa.  He  re- 
ceived us  politely,  talked  of  trade,  informed  us  that 
he  had  once  travelled  from  Genoa  to  London,  by  post, 
in  eight  days,  though  detained  ten  hours  in  Paris,  and 
finished  by  inviting  us  to  dinner  the  next  day. 

At  the  house  of  De  la  Rue,  a  banker,  where  1  had 
occasion  to  call,  we  were  informed  of  a  steam-boat, 


GENOA.  497 

then  at  Genoa,  and  bound  in  a  few  days  to  Marseilles. 
She  was  built  at  Naples,  and  was  intended  for  a  pas- 
sage boat  on  the  borders  of  this  sea.  We  went  to 
look  at  her,  with  a  view  of  embracing  so  unexpected 
and  favourable  an  opportunity  of  pursuing  our  route, 
if  the  boat  should  appear  in  good  condition.  The 
engine,  we  found,  was  English,  and  managed  by  an 
English  engineer.  The  accommodations,  though  far 
inferior  to  those  in  American  steam-boats,  were  not 
such  as  to  prevent  us  from  deciding  upon  a  passage  in 
her,  if  nothing  further  should  occur  to  oppose  it.  We 
called  on  Dr.  M****,  with  an  introduction  from  Acer- 
bi,  of  Milan.  His  brother,  to  whom  he  introduced  us, 
is  professor  of  chemistry  in  the  university,  and  keeps 
a  Farmacia^  or  druggist's  shop,  in  a  degree  of  neatness 
that  we  thought  worthy  of  remark.  Hiw  articles  were 
classed  according  to  their  composition,  under  four 
principal  heads ;  Metallic  Simplici^  Acidu  and  JllkohoU, 
The  doctor  and  professor  both  accompanied  us  to  the 
university,  a  large  building  in  the  centre  of  the  town, 
formerly  a  college  of  Jesuits.  We  ascended,  on  en- 
tering, a  flight  of  wide  marble  steps,  with  two  statues 
of  large  lions  crouching  at  the  foot,  as  if  to  support 
the  massive  weight  of  the  staircases.  They  exhibited 
to  us  the  philosophical  apparatus — a  tolerable  collec- 
tion, though  trifling  compared  with  that  at  Pavia,  and 
inferior  indeed  to  several  private  collections  in  Ame- 
rica. We  were  introduced  in  the  college,  to  V******, 
professor  of  natural  history,  a  gentleman  of  modest 
pretensions,  but  of  much  scientific  merit.  His  cabinet 
of  minerals,  though  of  recent  preparation,  bids  fair  to 
become  respectable.  The  university  has,  at  present, 
about  150  students  ;  sixty  of  whom  are  in  the  medical 


498  GENOA. 

class.  It  comprehends  four  faculties,  viz.  Science, 
Law,  Medicine,  and  Theology. 

We  spent  half  an  hour  in  a  reading  room,  provided 
with  French  and  Swiss  newspapers,  and  a  few  literary 
journals.  A  small  newspaper,  printed  in  Lausanne, 
(I  believe  daily,)  has  a  very  extensive  circulation  in 
the  southern  parts  of  Europe,  from  the  sensible,  mo- 
derate, and  judicious  manner  in  which  the  editor  no- 
tices the  political  features  of  the  passing  moment.  In 
a  trip  to  the  light-house  this  afternoon,  we  had,  from 
the  water,  an  interesting  view  of  the  town,  and  of  the 
mountains  around  it.  With  "  weary  steps,  and  slow," 
we  ascended  to  the  lantern,  and  feasted  our  eyes  on 
the  charming  scenery.  The  sea  was  calm,  the  sky 
clear,  and  the  air  mild  and  refreshing.  Dolphins  were 
sporting  at  no  g^reat  distance  from  the  baoc  of  the 
tower.  Numerous  small  boats  were  moving  on  the 
surface.  Savona,  the  town  in  which  Columbus  was 
born,  could  be  discerned  in  the  western  horizon, 
while  toward  the  east,  the  city,  with  its  hundred  pa- 
laces, and  its  fine  gardens,  was  spread  like  a  map  be- 
fore us. 

On  our  return,  we  stopped  at  the  palace  of  Doria, 
whose  family  fills  so  important  a  space  in  the  records 
of  Genoa.  It  is  a  large  building,  but  without  any 
marks  of  exterior  elegance. 

29th.  Dr.  M***^  conducted  us,  this  morning,  to  the 
hospital,  celebrated  for  its  architecture,  and  the  num- 
ber of  patients  it  usually  contains.  It  is  a  fine  build- 
ing, with  wide  marble  stairs  and  columns.  Upon 
entering,  we  were  struck  with  the  great  number  of 
statues,  larger  than  life,  placed  in  elevated  and  con- 
spicuous places  along  the  walls.    They  are  the  repre- 


GENOA,  499 

sentatives  of  those  benevolent  persons  who  have  con- 
tributed liberally  to  the  funds  of  the  institution.  The 
statues  of  those  who  gave  to  the  amount  of  100,000 
livres  (about  £2,800  sterling)  are  placed  at  their  ease, 
in  a  sitting  posture,  while  those,  whose  purses  were 
not  quite  so  long,  or  hearts  more  narrow,  are  con- 
demned for  ever  to  an  erect  position.  These  huge 
statues,  figuring  like  giants  in  a  castle,  are  badly  ex- 
ecuted in  marble,  and  have  become  so  black  with  dust 
and  smoke,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  say  whether 
the  benefactor  was  a  Moor  or  a  Christian,  but  for  the 
Catholic  place  in  which  he  is  deposited.  The  general 
appearance  of  this  hospital  soon  convinced  us,  that 
there  was  a  great  deficiency  in  the  attention  it  receives 
from  its  managers  and  nurses.  Cleanliness  is  much  ne- 
glected. The  beds  are  placed  in  a  double  tier,  with 
very  little  space  between  them.  The  house  contained 
about  1000  patients,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  but  the 
number  sometimes  swells  to  2  and  3000.  Only  seven 
of  the  sisters  of  charity  are  engaged  here,  the  other 
nurses  being  hired.  It  is  attended  by  four  physicians 
and  four  surgeons,  with  their  assistants.  Ft  is  sup- 
ported in  part  by  legacies,  the  deficiency  being  made 
up  by  government.  The  cases  taken  to  this  hospital 
are  all  considered  as  remediable.  One  apartment  is 
appropriated  to  wpunds  arising  from  accidents — a  re- 
gulation which  we  found  to  exist  also  at  Milan.  This 
gave  rise  to  a  mistake,  in  one  very  respectable  English 
traveller,  who,  in  his  published  journal,  relates,  that, 
in  the  hospital  of  Genoa,  one  room  is  assigned  to 
those  who  have  been  wounded  with  the  stiletto ;  and 
he  adduces  it  as  an  evidence  of  the  deplorable  state 
of  morals  in  that  city.     We  next  visited  the  hospital 


500  GENOA. 

for  incurables  and  insane.  It  contains,  in  the  whole, 
700,  whose  condition,  in  general,  denotes  the  absence 
of  judgment,  cleanliness,  and  tenderness.  It  includes 
seventy  male  lunatics,  and  a  greater  number  of  fe- 
male. Forty  of  these  poor  creatures  were  chained 
down  in  their  beds,  and  seldom  allowed  the  use  of  their 
limbs,  or  the  enjoyment  of  fresh  air.  It  was  the  most 
affecting  and  disgusting  bedlam  I  ever  saw.  In  one 
room  were  300  of  the  incurables,  some  of  them  exhi- 
biting the  most  appalling  maladies  which  flesh  is  heir 
to.  A  considerable  proportion  of  these  are  children. 
The  inattention  and  neglect,  apparent  in  these  hospi- 
tals, are  ascribed,  by  most  persons,  to  a  dereliction  of 
order  and  principle,  consequent  upon  the  political 
changes  of  the  country,  and  the  introduction  of  a 
feeble,  and,  at  the  same  time,  a  bigotted  government. 
The  effect  of  this  change  is  felt,  in  all  the  institutions 
of  Genoa. 

This  town  is  the  only  seaport  of  any  consequence 
in  Sardinia,  and  yet  its  commerce  receives  no  protec- 
tion, no  fostering  encouragement  from  the  government. 
The  university  languishes  for  want  of  the  aid  which  a 
liberal  and  enlightened  policy  might  give  it;  and  fears 
are  entertained,  that  the  building  which  it  occupies, 
will,  ere  long,  revert  to  the  Jesuits. 

The  church  of  St.  Ambrose  contains  a  great  number 
of  pictures,  of  which  two  are  from  the  pencil  of  Ru- 
bens. Not  choosing  to  take  off' my  hat,  on  entering,  the 
man  at  the  door  of  this  church,  rather  than  lose  his 
fee,  permitted  me  to  go  in ;  but  the  superstitious  fellow, 
either  to  clear  himself  of  the  sin,  or  to  atone  for  my 
profanation  of  the  place,  kneeled  and  crossed  himself 
and  bowed,  at  every  little  image  he  came  to,  in  fol- 


GENOA.  501 

lowing  us  round.  We  visited  in  our  walk,  the  old 
temple  of  San  Stephano,  in  a  low  and  damp  situation, 
but  remarkable  for  its  altar  piece,  the  stoning  of  Ste- 
phen, by  Raphael  and  his  pupil  Julio  Romano.  The 
figures  are  singularly  expressive,  especially  the  savage 
fierceness  of  the  ruffians,  who  are  in  the  act  of  cast- 
ing enormous  stones  upon  the  dying  martyr,  whose 
resigned  and  pious  looks  bespeak  the  mild  but  irre- 
sistible force  of  the  faith  for  which  he  died.  The 
upper  part  of  the  picture,  is  an  attempt  to  represent 
the  celestial  benediction  upon  the  devotedness  of 
this  Christian  hero.  The  countenance  of  the  Saviour, 
whose  arm  is  stretched  out  towards  him,  is  replete 
with  the  most  animating  benignity. 

We  accepted  to-day,  the  invitation  of  T*****  to 
dine  with  him.  His  wife  was  confined  by  indisposi- 
tion to  her  chamber,  and  mostly  to  her  bed.  But  as 
the  company  of  strangers,  who  could  converse  in  the 
English  tongue,  was  not  very  often  to  be  enjoyed  in 
Genoa,  we  were  invited  into  her  room.  She  is  young 
and  handsome,  and  from  her  style  of  conversation, 
possesses  a  mind  more  than  usually  brilliant.  She  was 
suffering  from  a  protracted  and  obstinate  cold,  which 
affected  her  nervous  system,  and  was  attended  with 
cough.  Notwithstanding  the  mildness  of  this  climate, 
colds,  and  even  consumptions,  are  not  unusual.  Seve- 
ral persons  were  invited  to  dine  with  us ;  and  it  was 
something  of  a  treat  to  us,  to  sit  down  once  more  to 
a  table  in  the  English  mode.  The  fish  of  the  Medi- 
terranean are  considered  as  excellent.  Provisions, 
and  living  in  general,  were  stated  by  the  gentlemen 
present,  to  be  less  than  one  half  of  the  usual  prices 
in  English  towns.     A  partner  of  our  host  had  recently 

Vol.  I.  42 


502  GENOA. 

removed  here  from  England,  with  his  family,  and  had 
taken  a  house  with  seventeen  rooms  m  it,  for  £24 
sterling  per  annum. 

The  government  of  Sardinia,  we  were  informed, 
appears  every  where  to  be  despised.  The  country 
is  completely  priest-ridden.  The  streets  of  Genoa, 
indeed,  abound  with  them  ;  and  from  their  looks,  one 
would  certainly  imagine,  that  they  lived  much  to  their 
liking.  They  have  a  robust  and  contented  air,  and 
are,  upon  the  whole,  both  here  and  in  other  places, 
a  set  of  unusually  fine  looking  men.  There  are  more 
Capuchins  in  Genoa,  than  I  have  any  where  else  met 
with.  Their  dress  is  a  coarse  coat,  or  mantle,  of  gray 
cloth,  feet  bare,  except  sandals,  no  covering  on  the 
head,  and  a  belt  or  string  round  the  waist,  from  which 
is  suspended  a  rope,  with  a  knot  in  its  lower  end. 
This  is  understood  to  be  for  the  purpose  of  self- 
flagellation,  in  order  to  expel  the  wicked  one,"  when 
they  find  he  is  about  to  assault  their  spiritual  house. 
But,  if  the  information  communicated  at  our  table  to- 
day be  true,  (and  it  was  presented  in  no  question- 
able shape,)  the  knots  of  these  monks  are  often  too 
soft,  and  altogether  insufficient  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
pelling the  enemy.  In  short  the  opinion  is  common, 
that  the  actual  lives  of  these  people,  are,  in  a  certain 
sense,  extremely  immoral.  The  Capuchins  profess 
and  possess  a  great  degree  of  ignorance ;  but  igno- 
rance is,  certainly,  not  the  pledge  of  virtue. 

I  was  sorry  to  learn,  that  though  there  are  fifty 
English  inhabitants  in  Genoa,  they  have  no  settled 
worship,  and  but  little  true  society  is  maintained 
amongst  them.  Their  principal  object  being  the 
gains  of  trade,  in  which  pursuit  they  are  rivals,  they 


GENOA.  503 

suffer  frivolous  jealousies  to  divide  them,  and  to  cut 
them  off*  from  one  of  the  highest  of  all  earthly  bless- 
ings— the  enjoyment  of  loving  and  being  beloved,  by 
those  with  whom  we  are  connected. 

We  were  surprised  to  see  in  the  hospitals  and  in 
the  streets,  so  much  of  the  small-pox,  notwithstand- 
ing that  vaccination  is  offered  gratis  to  the  poor. 
But  the  difficulty  was  explained  when  we  were  in- 
formed, that  the  monks  oppose  the  progress  of  vac- 
cination, and  propagate  the  opinion,  that,  as  God  sent 
the  other  disease,  it  ought  to  be  submitted  to.  Our 
informants  are  fully  persuaded,  that  the  state  of  so- 
ciety in  Genoa,  is  in  a  rapid  retrograde  movement, 
and  that  it  has  already  gone  back  more  than  a  cen- 
tury; an  effect,  altogether  to  be  ascribed  to  the  late 
political  changes.  Though  I  am  aware  that  great 
allowances  are  to  be  made  for  the  bias  of  political 
opinions,  there  are  many  obvious  proofs  of  the  just- 
ness of  these  conclusions,  to  an  extent  greatly  to  be 
regretted. 

Many  of  the  streets  of  Genoa,  are  too  narrow  for 
any  carriage  to  pass,  except  a  wheel  barrow,  and  yet 
these  are  places  of  populous  and  busy  resort.  One 
of  these  narrow  passages  is  appropriated  to  gold- 
smiths and  jewellers,  and  glitters  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  with  the  riches  of  their  various  ornaments.  A 
taste  for  finery,  is  an  evident  and  striking  trait  in  the 
fenaales  of  this  ancient  republic. 

30th.  Our  guide  conducted  us  this  morning  to  the 
school  for  the  deaf  and  dumb.  This  establishment 
contains  about  twenty  boys.  Their  principal  in- 
structor, Ottavia  Giovanni  Battista  Affarotti,  is  a 
learned  monk.      As  our  visit  was  necessarily  short, 


504  GENOA. 

from  the  want  of  time,  we  saw  the  boys  only  in  the 
school  room.  They  performed  before  us  an  exercise 
which  was  really  surprising.  A  question  in  Algebra 
was  given  to  three  of  them,  involving  three  unknown 
quantities  x,  y,  and  z.  On  a  large  black  board,  the 
conditions  of  the  question  were  written  down  by  them, 
from  the  signs  or  gestures  of  the  teacher,  and  each 
of  the  boys  in  succession,  deduced  the  values  of  the 
letters;  the  first  found  the  value  of  x,  the  second  with 
the  aid  of  that,  found  the  value  of  y,  and  the  third 
that  of  z.  They  were  sometimes  a  little  puzzled  or 
disconcerted,  but  were  rectified  by  the  motions  of  the 
monk,  who  appeared  vexed,  I  thought,  at  their  dull- 
ness. If  this  was  not  a  hackneyed  question,  as  we 
had  no  reason  to  suppose  fi^om  what  appeared,  it  evin- 
ced the  wonderful  precision,  with  which  the  most  ab- 
stract knowledge  can  be  conveyed  to  the  deaf  and 
dumb.  We  were  about  to  depart,  when  the  good 
monk  requested  us  to  wait  a  few  minutes  longer.  He 
asked  my  name,  and  on  taking  my  card,  he  held  it 
concealed  in  his  hand,  and  directed  one  of  the  boys 
to  write  my  name  on  the  board.  The  intercourse 
between  them  was  altogether  by  signs.  They  first 
wrote  Monsieur.  He  next  told  them  to  write  the  name 
of  the  apostle  that  was  the  most  beloved  by  our  Sa- 
viour. They  immediately  wrote,  Jean.  He  then 
told  them  to  put  down  the  fifth  letter  of  the  word 
which  expressed  joy.  They  wrote  the  letter  G,  and 
under  it,  to  show  how  they  obtained  it,  they  wrote 
allegresso.  Next  they  were  told  to  join  the  last  letter 
of  the  name  of  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Roman 
conquerors.  R,  was  added  to  the  G,  and  the  word 
Ccesar,  put  underneath.     Then,  the  second  letter  of 


GENOA.  505 

the  name  of  the  king  of  animals.  I,  was  placed  along 
side  the  R,  and  Lion,  written  below.  Then,  the  first 
letter  of  the  term  for  wisdom.  S,  was  attached  to  the 
I,  and  sagesse,  written.  The  first  letter  of  the  name 
of  the  ferryman  that  conveyed  his  unwilling  passen- 
gers over,  the  Styx.  C,  and  Caron.  The  fourth  let- 
ter in  the  name  of  the  patriarch  that  had  a  stone  for 
his  pillow.  O,  and  Jacob.  Lastly,  the  second  let- 
ter of  the  last  discovered  quarter  of  the  globe.  M, 
and  America,  were  in  like  manner  written.  My  name 
was  thus  in  full,  and  with  wonderful  dexterity  made 
out.  The  countenances  and  manners  of  these  chil- 
dren, bespoke  great  mental  activity  and  inquisi- 
tiveness  ;  and  I  never  witnessed  an  exercise  which  so 
clearly  demonstrated  the  power  which  mind  possesses 
over  mind,  under  circumstances  so  unfavourable  to 
the  developement  of  its  faculties. 

Some  of  the  streets  of  Genoa  are  remarkable  for 
being  occupied  on  each  side  by  nothing  but  houses 
of  so  large  a  size  and  so  richly  furnished  as  to  vie  in 
splendour  with  many  of  the  palaces  of  Europe.  The 
Strada  Nuova  and  Strada  Balbi,  are  not  excelled,  I 
should  imagine,  by  any  two  streets  in  Europe,  for  the 
uniform  magnificence  of  their  buildings.  They  are 
mostly  painted  on  the  outside,  with  ornamental  fig- 
ures, and  some  of  them  of  no  mean  execution,  giv- 
ing to  a  whole  street,  a  scenic  effect  that  is  truly 
imposing.  We  stopped  at  the  Palace  de  Serrar, 
and  were  admitted  by  the  porter  into  two  or  three  of 
the  principal  apartments.  The  nicely  waxed  floor, 
the  profusion  of  gilding,  the  numberless  reflections 
from  the  mirrors,  extending  from  the  top  to  the  bot- 
tom  of  the  rooms,  the  finely  painted  ceilings,  the 

42  * 


506  GENOA. 

richness  of  the  iuniiture,  tapestry,  &c.  are  all  calcula- 
ted to  awaken  the  vulgar  gaze,  and  either  to  put  sim- 
plicity to  the  blush,  or  to  excite  the  natural  and  rea- 
sonable inquiry,  of  what  use  is  all  this  prodigality  of 
wealth  ?  does  it  contribute  to  the  dignity  and  happi- 
ness of  man  ?  In  this  street,  we  were  more  beset  with 
beggars,  than  we  had  been  any  where  else  in  our  jour- 
ney. Some  of  them  were  almost  naked,  and  extreme- 
ly pertinacious  in  their  demands  for  charity.  Such 
a  contrast,  between  the  sumptuousness  of  a  city,  and 
the  extreme  poverty  of  many  of  its  inhabitants,  is. 
perhaps,  no  where  so  striking,  as  it  is  in  this  place. 

Our  steps  were  next  directed  to  the  Albergo  de  Po- 
vert,  or  hotel  for  the  poor ;  a  large  building,  situated 
on  high  ground,  and  rather  remarkable  for  the  taste, 
as  well  as  strength  of  its  architecture.  It  is  a  general 
work-house,  and  from  its  extent,  one  would  think  it 
sufficient  to  relieve  all  the  poor  of  Genoa  from  want, 
or,  at  least,  from  that  pinching  penury,  which  leads 
them  to  street  beggary.  This  effect  it  probably  would 
produce,  if  begging  was  strictly  prohibited,  instead  of 
being,  as  it  is,  encouraged  by  the  religious  prejudice? 
of  the  people.  In  theAlbergo  de  Poveri,  any  person 
may  present  himself,  and  ask  for  employment ;  and  un- 
less there  be  something  extremely  unreasonable  in 
the  request,  he  is  admitted  into  the  house,  fed,  clo- 
thed, and  lodged,  and  the  balance  of  his  labour,  if  any 
be  due,  paid  him  whenever  he  chooses  to  withdraw. 
The  house  contained,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  about 
1100  women,  and  400  men.  The  women  were  em- 
ployed in  spinning,  weaving,  embroidery,  in  making 
artificial  flowers,  and  silk  ribands.  The  rooms  exhi- 
bited an  interesting  display  of  activity  and  skill   The 


GENOA.  507 

men  were  engaged  in  weaving  coarse  stuffs,  as  tick- 
ing, &c.  The  amount  of  the  labour  falls  short  of  the 
expenditures  of  the  house,  but  in  what  proportion,  I 
did  not  learn.  The  deficiencies  are  supplied  by  do- 
nations, and  by  government ;  and  some  of  its  princi- 
pal benefactors  are  honoured,  as  in  the  hospitals,  by 
having  their  statues  placed  in  the  hall  and  anticham- 
ber,  either  seated  or  standing,  as  their  merits  de- 
served. In  the  chapel  of  this  large  house,  are  a  num- 
ber of  paintings,  and  a  statue,  by  Michael  Angelo,  of 
the  Virgin,  supporting  the  dead  body  of  Christ.  It  is 
in  strong  relief,  and  is  considered  as  one  of  the 
most  exquisite  pieces  of  sculpture,  ever  executed  by 
that  great  master  of  the  art. 

From  this  famous  "  tavern,"  we  retired  to  our  inn, 
dined,  and  prepared  to  leave  Genoa.  Professor 
V******  called,  and  gave  me  several  specimens  of 
minerals  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  signified  his  de- 
sire of  a  correspondence,  on  subjects  of  science. 

The  city  of  Genoa,  certainly  presents  many  ob- 
jects of  great  interest  to  the  traveller,  notwithstanding 
that  it  appears  to  have  passed,  long  since,  its  meri- 
dian of  prosperity.  Its  history,  as  is  well  known,  is 
highly  curious  and  instructive,  furnishing  a  salutary 
lesson,  with  respect  to  the  influence  of  governments, 
upon  the  morals  and  happiness  of  a  people.  Its  po- 
sition is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  its  climate  that  of 
an  almost  perennial  spring.  It  is  rare  that  snow  falls, 
and  water  but  seldom  freezes  in  the  streets,  notwith- 
standing that  its  latitude  corresponds  with  that  of 
Lake  Champlain,  in  the  United  States.  The  cha- 
racter of  the  Genoese,  is  reputed  to  be  unfavourable 
(o  simplicity  and  honesty.  Craftiness  at  a  bargain,  and 


508  GENOA. 

an  avidity  for  gain,  with  but  too  little  scruple  about 
the  means,  are  said  to  be  characteristics  of  the  citi- 
zens of  this  town.  This  remark,  however,  is  bj  no 
means  applicable  to  the  bankers,  and  regular  mer- 
chants. The  women  are  not  remarkably  handsome. 
In  the  streets,  they  wear  thin  shawls,  which  hang 
over  the  head,  and  fall  loosely  down  the  back,  with 
the  corners  folded  round  the  arms.  We  had  no  op- 
portunity of  making  personal  inquiries,  into  their  wit 
or  knowledge,  and,  what  is  of  higher  importance,  their 
domestic  virtues ;  but,  presuming  that  they  are  influ- 
enced by  a  depressing  system  of  faith  and  govern- 
ment, as  well  as  the  other  sex,  we  should  not  have 
entered  on  the  inquiry,  with  an  expectation  of  finding 
any  thing  superior  to  the  female  accomplishment  of 
England  and  America,  but  greatly  the  reverse. 

The  markets  were  amply  supplied  with  the  finest 
fruit,  and  in  great  variety.  Fresh  figs  were  plentiful. 
There  was  one  kind  of  fruit  in  the  market,  we  had 
never  seen  before,  though  it  was  cheap,  and  very  pa- 
latable. It  is  of  the  size  of  a  small  plumb,  covered 
with  fine  bristles,  or  down,  which  does  not  hurt  the 
mouth.  The  colour  is  a  bright  scarlet  red.  It  is  a 
very  showy  fruit ;  its  substance  is  a  soft  farinaceous 
pulp,  and  its  taste  sweet  and  agreeable.  Its  trivial 
name,  in  the  market,  is  Corbezzola.  The  plant  is  the 
Arbutus  Unedo,  (strawberry-tree,)  an  evergreen,  com- 
mon to  the  hills  round  Genoa,  but  rather  rare  in  other 
places.  It  grows  in  the  island  of  Corsica,  where  the 
juice  of  its  fruit  is  converted  into  an  agreeable  wine. 

Having  taken  our  passage  in  the  steam-boat,  for 
JNIarseilles,  Dr.  S***",  and  myself,  took  leave  of  our 
companion,  B.  D"^"^*^**^  who  was  going  into  the  south  of 


PASSAGE    TO    MARSEILLES.  509 

Italy:  our  parting  was  with  mutual  regret,  for  we  had 
ever  found  in  our  friend,  qualities,  which  rendered 
him  a  very  pleasant  and  intelligent  fellow-traveller, 
well  acquainted  with  the  history  of  the  countries  we 
were  passing  through ;  full  of  enlightened  curiosity, 
and  zeal  for  information;  and,  what  is  very  important 
in  one  who  journies  for  instruction,  an  early  riser,  and 
of  industrious  habits. 

In  turning  my  face  westward  from  Genoa,  and  re- 
linquishing all  prospect  of  visiting  the  splendid  re- 
mains, of  the  great  mistress  of  the  world,  and  other  in- 
teresting objects  in  the  south  of  Italy,  1  have  resolved 
to  sacrifice  inclination,  curiosity,  and  pleasure,  to 
considerations  of  real  utility — of  professional  duty. 
It  will  be  impossible  to  extend  my  journey  south,  to 
Rome,  Naples,  and  Vesuvius,  without  devoting  six 
weeks,  or  at  least  a  month,  to  these  objects.  I  should 
thereby  deprive  myself  of  so  much  of  some  of  the 
principal  concerns  which  I  had  in  view  in  leaving 
home — a  visit  to  the  schools  of  Paris,  London,  and 
Edinburgh,  during  the  season  of  instruction,  as  greatly 
to  lessen  the  advantages,  or  at  least  the  satisfaction 
which  I  hope  to  gain,  by  spending  the  winter  in  those 
distinguished  seats  of  learning. 

On  board  of  the  boat,  we  found  a  number  of  per- 
sons, attracted  by  a  desire  to  see  her  works  and  wit- 
ness their  operation.  About  one  half  of  these  were 
women,  some  of  whom  remained  on  board  a  consi- 
derable time  after  we  were  underway.  An  old  priest 
was  among  those  whose  curiosity  was  thus  excited. 
But,  considering  the  novelty  of  such  a  spectacle,  (this 
being  the  first  steam-boat  that  had  been  erected  on 


510  VOYAGE  FROM 

the  Mediterranean,*  and  this  her  first  trip  to  Genoa,) 
the  number  of  those  who  came  to  visit  the  boat  was 
very  small.  This  was  doubtless  owing  to  the  idea  of 
danger,  which,  I  found,  was  very  prevalent,  in  relation 
to  steam-boats.  There  were  but  two  passengers  from 
Genoa,  besides  ourselves.  The  boat  was  named  Fer- 
dinando  Primo.  Her  size  was  264  tons ;  and  the  power 
of  the  engine,  fifty  horses.  It  was  very  obvious,  at 
first  setting  oflf^  that  neither  the  captain,  nor  the  su- 
perintendant  for  the  owners,  (who  was  also  with  us, 
a  German,  of  the  name  of  W***,)  nor  the  crew,  were 
possessed  of  much  of  that  dexterity,  and  good  ma- 
nagement, which  distinguish  the  movements,  on  board 
of  our  vessels.  A  great  deal  of  bustle  ;  loud  and  in- 
cessant talk,  and  evident  confusion,  together  with  a 
drunken  engineer,  were  rather  unfavourable  prognos- 
tics, with  respect  to  the  safety  of  our  voyage.  Though 
they  had  been  a  fortnight  in  port,  preparing  for  this 
trip,  the  fuel  was  not  all  got  in,  till  the  moment  of  our 
departure. 

The  lanthorn  of  the  tower,  threw  its  broad  gleams 
over  the  bay,  as  we  moved  out  of  the  harbour,  and 
night  closed  upon  us,  while  the  numerous  lights  of 
Genoa  were  glimmering  visibly  in  our  rear.  Though 
this  boat  was  intended  chiefly,  if  not  exclusively,  for 
passengers,  the  accommodations  for  sleeping  were 
very  indifferent.  With  some  difficulty,  I  procured  a 
mattrass,  and  at  length  fell  into  a  sound  sleep,  on  the 
bosom  of  that  water  which  has  so  often  been  the 

*  With  the  exception  of  a  steam-boat,  which  runs  from  Venice  to  Trieste, 
on  the  Adriatic.  This  boat  belongs,  I  believe,  chiefly  to  the  American 
Consul,  at  Trieste. 


GFNOA  TO  MARSEILLES.  511 

scene  of  ancient  and  modern  conflict ;  of  exploits 
which  were  sung  by  Homer,  narrated  by  Tacitus  and 
Livy,  and  swelled  in  the  trump  of  feme  by  the  elo- 
quence of  Cicero. 

31st.  1  rose  early  and  went  on  deck.  The  scenery 
was  truly  delightful,  the  sea  calm,  the  sky  serene,  the 
air  mild  and  balmy,  and  the  mountainous  coast,  near 
which  we  were  moving  with  an  easy  and  steady  pace, 
wore  an  aspect  altogether  enchanting,  at  the  distance 
at  which  we  viewed  it.  Many  towns  were  in  sight, 
mostly  near  the  water,  but  some  of  them  elevated 
among  the  hills.  The  sun  rose  with  splendour,  and 
I  thought,  with  uncommon  beauty.  One's  feelings  are 
sometimes  attuned  to  the  harmony  of  nature,  with 
more  than  ordinary  sensibility;  and  when,  at  those 
favoured  moments,  the  fancy  and  affections  are  in 
accordance  with  new  and  sublime  appearances  in  the 
visible  creation,  we  may  mark  such  periods  as  the 
"  sunny  islands"  in  the  unsteady  ocean  of  human  ex- 
istence. 

At  nine  we  were  served  with   a  good  breakfast 
of  coffee,  bread,  butter,  and  eggs,  by  Salvador,  our 
cook,  a  sleepy,  dull  looking  Italian,  but  quite  dis- 
posed, in  his  own  time  and  manner,  to  oblige  his  cus- 
tomers.    Our  captain,  Don  Andrea  Martino  (which 
certainly  sounds  better  than  Andrew  Martin,)  was  a 
man  of  an  open  countenance  and  modest  manners. 
He  had  been  a  captain  in  the  Neapolitan  navy,  and 
appeared  to  be  respected  and  beloved  by  his  crew. 
We  moved  through  the  water  at  the  rate  of  four  and 
a  half,  or  five  knots  per  hour ;  but  such  was  the  inte- 
rest we  took  in  the  scenery  around  us,  there  was  little 
or  no  impatience  felt  from  the  slowness  of  our  pro- 


512  VOYAGE  FROM 

gress,  though  accustt)med,  at  home,  to  move  with 
double  that  speed.  As  we  advanced,  the  coast  be- 
came more  populous.  At  one  time  there  were  no  less 
than  thirteen  towns  in  view  at  once,  some  of  them  at 
very  considerable  heights.  Several  of  those  on  the 
coast  were  surrounded  with  high  walls. 

Our  progress  against  the  wind  and  without  sails, 
excited,  to  the  highest  pitch,  the  curiosity  of  those 
who  gained  a  sight  of  us  from  the  shore ;  and  from 
almost  every  town,  boats  pushed  off,  full  of  men,  wo- 
men, and  boys,  who  rowed  vigorously  to  overtake  us, 
and  to  ascertain  what  and  who  we  were.  Few,  if  any 
of  them,  had  ever  seen  a  steam-boat  before,  and  many 
of  them  had  never  heard  of  such  an  invention.  The 
captain  suffered  none  to  come  on  board,  but  generally 
threw  them  a  rope,  and  allowed  them  to  keep  along 
side  as  far  as  they  chose.  It  was  diverting  to  notice 
the  eager  gaze,  and  the  incessant  jabber,  of  these 
swarthy  Sardinians,  In  several  of  the  numerous  boats 
which  intercepted  us,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  an 
old  priest  would  appear  among  the  curious  visiters, 
and  if  there  was  a  danger  of  not  coming  up  with  us, 
these  fathers  would  apply  as  lustily  to  the  oars  as  any 
of  the  company.  But  it  was  remarkable  that  the 
captain  would  never  throw  a  rope  to  a  boat  whicli 
contained  a  priest.  I  learned  from  him,  subsequently, 
that  he  considered  it  bad  luck  to  have  a  priest  on 
board  of  his  ship,  and  that  he  considered  them  as 
among  the  most  worthless,  if  not  the  most  corrupt 
people  in  the  country.  He  told  me  afterwards  that 
there  were  30,000  priests  in  Naples,  and  that  their 
conduct  was  well  known  to  be  extremely  licentious. 
His  estimation  of  this  class  of  the  community,  had. 


GENOA  TO  MARSEILLES.  513 

it  is  probable,  derived  some  of  its  colouring  or  bias, 
from  his  naval  habits. 

A  great  number  of  large  porpoises  appeared  in  the 
course  of  the  morning.  Many  vessels  were  in  sight, 
several  of  which  were  large  brigs,  but  all  much  far- 
ther from  shore  than  our  boat.  At  two  o'clock  we 
refreshed  ourselves  with  a  cup  of  tea.  The  super- 
intendent, W***,  we  found  to  be  a  man  of  mild  man- 
ners. He  is  a  native  of  Strasburg,  and  as  we  were 
told  by  one  of  the  passengers,  is  a  Jew.  The  two 
men  employed  as  engineers,  are  both  Englishmen, 
and  both  habituated  to  drink.  One  of  them  was 
-  almost  constantly  intoxicated,  and  they  were  always 
quarrelling  with  each  other.  One  of  our  passengers 
is  a  Genoese,  inquisitive,  shrewd,  discontented  with 
his  situation,  and  with  the  government,  and  de- 
termined to  come  to  America,  were  it  not  for  the 
pain  of  leaving  his  mother.  Another  is  an  elderly 
Frenchman,  residing  in  Genoa.  He  was  in  England 
fifty  years  ago,  and  had  been  much  with  the  family  of 
F**'s  at  Falmouth,  and  appeared  to  retain  a  great 
regard  for  them,  and  for  the  society  to  which  they 
belong. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  passed  Monaco,  a 
town  and  principality  of  Piedmont,  very  small,  and 
very  poor.  Dined  at  four.  The  machine  works  very 
slowly. 

1 1  th  month,  1  st.  The  sun  rose  this  morning  with  the 
same  mild  lustre  as  it  did  yesterday,  and  the  weather 
was  again  delightful.  We  were  advancing,  when  I 
came  on  deck,  about  four  and  a  half  miles  per  hour, 
with  the  islands  D'Hyeres  just  before  us,  and  a  good 
prospect  of  seeing  our  port  before  night;  but  this 

Vol.  I  43 


514  VOYAGE  FROM 

flattering  prospect  was  soon  at  an  end.     It  was  an- 
nounced to  us,  that  the  fuel  was  nearly  exhausted,  and 
would  not  carry  us  much  further.     This  very  unwel- 
come intelligence  threw  us  into  a  dilemma,  and  our 
superintendent  and  manager  seemed  as  much  embar- 
rassed as  1  should  have  been,  had  he  thrown  the  whole 
charge  into  my  hands.     I  advised  him  to  steer  for 
Toulon,  which  was  at  no  great  distance;   but  it  soon 
appeared  that  we  had  not  sufficient  to  carry  us,  even 
thither.     The  only  alternative,  therefore,  was  to  ap- 
proach the  shore  at  a  small  village,  then  in  sight,  called 
Saline  d'Hyere,  about  a  league  distant  from  the  town 
D'Hyere.    This  was  resolved  upon.    As  we  advanced 
towards  the  village,  there  appeared  no  little  commo- 
tion among  the  inhabitants      We  anchored  at  some 
distance  from  the  shore,  and  a  boat  at  length  ventured 
out  to  examine  us.     Others  soon  followed,  containing 
militaires,  douanieres,  mistresses,  maids,  labourers, 
gentlemen  of  the  village,  boys  and  girls,  all  eager  and 
prompt  to  see  the  sight,  for  we  were  now  on  the  coast 
of  France.     They  informed  us,  that  they  knew  not 
what  to  make  of  our  vessel,  when  they  first  saw  her 
advancing,  without  sails,  and  against  the  wind,  but, 
observing  her  at  length  coming  toward  the  shore,  the 
conclusion  was,  that  she  was  a  ship  on  fire,  running  in 
for  assistance,  and  they  were  accordingly  preparing, 
men  and  women,  to  get  out  their  boats,  and  come  to 
our  relief,  when  they  saw  us  quietly  drop  anchor.    As 
to  a  steam-boat,  they  had  never  heard  of  one.    At  one 
o'clock,  we  went  on  shore,  to  endeavour  to  procure 
some  wood  or  fuel  of  some  sort,  but  it  proved  to  be  a 
most  difficult  enterprise.     There  was  wood  on  the 
shore,  but  it  was  destined  for  the  construction  of  some 


GENOA  TO  MARSEILLES.  515 

of  the  salt  works,  and  this  being  the  first  day  of  the 
week,  the  owner  of  it  had  gone  abroad.  The  after- 
noon was  therefore  spent,  without  affording  any  imme- 
diate prospect  of  relief  or  assistance,  at  this  place. 
Our  manager  proved  to  be  very  deficient  in  that  kind 
of  energy  and  address,  which  are  requisite  to  the  sta- 
tion he  had  undertaken,  as  the  director  of  a  new  and 
important  concern. 

The  people  of  the  village  appeared  to  be  of  decent 
manners,  and  tolerably  well  informed  for  their  station. 
They  were  busy  in  measuring  salt,  and  loading  a  ves- 
sel with  it,  notwithstanding  it  was  the  Christian  Sab- 
bath. In  this  work,  women  were  laboriously  engaged, 
carrying  heavy  bags  of  salt  on  their  heads,  from  the 
measurer  to  the  boat.  This  salt  is  made  by  the  vil- 
lagers, from  the  water  of  the  sea,  by  solar  evapora- 
tion. It  costs,  in  the  manufacture,  about  ten  sous  per 
bushel;  but  the  duty  is  thirteen  and  ahalf  francs,  just 
twenty-seven  times  the  original  value;  so  that  the 
purchaser  has  to  pay  for  it,  fourteen  francs  per  bushel. 
I  recollected,  with  some  degree  of  pleasure,  that  the 
salt  manufactured  at  Salina,  in  Onondaga  county, 
New-York,  cost,  when  I  was  there  in  1815,  duty  and 
all,  but  twenty-five  cents  per  bushel ;  about  one-tenth 
of  the  Mediterranean  price  ! 

2d.  We  were  in  the  same  situation  this  morning,  as 
when  we  first  dropped  anchor  yesterday,  at  noon, — 
no  fuel,  and  not  knowing  how  to  procure  any.  We 
were  told,  moreover,  as  a  further  trial  of  our  patience, 
that  the  wood  which  the  country  afforded,  was,  for  the 
most  part,  brought  to  the  village,  on  the  backs  of  mules. 
Our  manager  worried  himself,  by  running  hither  and 
thither,  without  effect.     In  the  mean  time,  Dr.  S.  and 


516  VOYAGE  FROM 

myself,  with  the  Genoese  passenger,  resolved  to  turn 
the  day  to  some  account,  and  we  set  ofT  to  visit  the 
salt-works  of  the  village.  We  found  the  workmen 
willing  and  disposed  to  give  us  information. 

The  process  of  evaporation,  as  it  is  here  conducted, 
is  very  simple.  The  ground,  adjacent  to  the  sea,  being 
flat,  extensive  basins  are  formed,  by  making  shallow 
excavations  in  the  earth,  of  about  four  rods  square, 
the  bottom  being  carefully  levelled,  and  pounded  or 
rolled  hard.  Into  these  the  water  is  admitted,  at  plea- 
sure, from  canals  or  ditches,  which  pass  along  side 
the  area  thus  prepared  to  receive  it.  The  evapora- 
tion goes  on  rapidly  in  dry  weather,  and  when  the 
brine  has  arrived  at  a  certain  degree  of  concentration 
it  is  let  into  another  compartment,  where  the  salt 
crystallizes,  and  settles  to  the  bottom.  When  dry,  it 
is  raked  up,  as  free  from  the  earth  or  dirt  as  possible, 
and  in  this  state  it  serves  for  coarse  purposes,  such 
as  the  use  of  cattle,  pickling  large  meats,  fish,  &:c. 
It  is  purified,  for  nicer  domestic  use,  by  dissolving  it 
in  a  large  reservoir,  whence  it  is  pumped,  by  horse 
power,  into  a  very  broad,  shallow  iron  boiler,  and 
again  reduced  by  artificial  heat.  The  water,  when 
exposed  to  the  sun  in  the  large  basins,  varies  from 
two  to  four  or  five  inches  in  depth.  These  works  are 
upon  a  pretty  large  scale.  The  basins  occupy  a  sur- 
face of  twenty  acres ;  and,  though  a  large  proportion 
iS  sold  and  removed  in  a  crude  state,  the  storehouse 
contained  a  very  great  quantity  of  refined  salt.  No 
advantage  is  taken  here  of  the  mother  water,  to  ob- 
tain glauber's  salt,  as  is  done  in  New  England. 

The  present  season  has  been  very  propitious  to 
these  salt-works;  for  such  a  continuance  of  dry  wea- 


GENOA  TO  MARSEILLES.  517 

ther  has  not  been  known  for  a  long  course  of  years. 
But  the  drought  has  been  very  injurious  to  another 
kind  of  industry,  practised  in  this  neighbourhood,  viz. 
the  orange  gardens.  In  the  neighbouring  town  of 
d'Hyeres,  there  is  a  plantation  of  orange  trees,  for 
the  produce  of  which  the  proprietor  has  received 
40,000  francs  per  annum.  The  trees  are  constantly  in 
bearing,  though  the  winter  sometimes  checks,  and 
even  destroys  the  crops.  They  have  suffered  much 
from  the  want  of  rain.  The  olive  is  also  one  of  the 
staple  commodities  of  this  region.  The  hills,  as  we 
advanced  along  the  coast,  were  covered  with  this 
beautiful  plant ;  which,  instead  of  being,  as  I  had 
imagined,  only  a  shrub,  grows,  in  a  good  soil,  to  the 
size  of  our  apple  trees.  The  leaves  are  small,  and 
of  a  pale  green.  The  fruit  is  well  known.  It  is 
gathered  in  autumn,  and  either  pickled,  or  sent  to 
the  mill,  for  the  extraction  of  the  oil.  The  pulp 
which  remains  in  the  press,  is  valuable  as  food  for 
cattle. 

The  salsola  is  also  gathered  in  this  neighbourhood, 
especially  in  the  islands,  and  burned  in  shallow  pits. 
It  undergoes  by  the  heat  a  kind  of  fusion,  and  is  thus 
converted  into  a  coarse  article  for  soap-makers.  It 
is  a  rigid  plant,  with  a  thick  fleshy  stem,  and  rather 
succulent. 

The  uncertainty  we  were  in  with  respect  to  fuel, 
induced  Dr.  S.  and  myself,  to  think  of  quitting  the 
boat  and  pursuing  our  journey  by  land ;  but  on  re- 
presenting our  situation  to  a  few  gentlemen  who  had 
assembled  at  the  village,  we  found  we  could  not  leave 
the  boat,  without  subjecting  the  captain  to  the  risk 
of  a  prosecution  at  Marseilles,  unless  our  names  were 


518  VOYAGE  FROM 

taken  off  the  "  role  d'equipage,"  by  the  authority  of 
a  "  Commissaire  de  Marine,"  and  such  an  officer  the 
village  did  not  produce.  It  is  but  justice  to  say,  that 
the  gentlemen  alluded  to,  who  appeared  to  be  some 
of  the  most  respectable  and  wealthy  inhabitants  of 
d'Hyere,  were  much  interested  for  us,  and  politely 
offered,  if  we  insisted  on  leaving  the  boat,  to  stand 
in  the  gap  between  the  captain  and  the  law,  as  far  as 
in  their  power.  They  were  truly  civil  and  obliging, 
and  through  their  instrumentality,  our  manager  was 
at  length  enabled  to  purchase  the  wood  intended  for 
a  special  purpose  in  the  salt  works,  and  about  noon 
the  sailors  began  to  convey  it  on  board.  We  accord- 
ingly determined  to  take  our  chance  in  the  comple- 
tion of  the  voyage.  The  report  of  the  steam-boat 
had  spread  round  the  country,  and  so  many  persons 
had.  collected  to  view  it,  our  captain  had  enough  to 
do  to  wait  upon  them,  and  to  show  them  the  wonder- 
working machine.  One  fat  old  lady  was  much  put 
to  it,  in  descending  the  ladder  into  the  dirty  hole  of 
the  engineer,  but  on  coming  up  she  manifested  the 
greatest  pleasure  in  having  seen  "/a  belle  mecaniquey 
About  sunset  our  wood  was  all  on  board,  the  steam 
was  let  loose,  and  we  departed,  carrying  with  us, 
for  a  short  distance,  a  number  of  our  curious  guests, 
who  left  us  at  last  with  a  profusion  of  bows  and 
thanks,  "  tres  content^''  with  the  ^^joli  petit  voi/age"  they 
had  made  by  steam.  The  evening  was  delightful,  and 
our  wood  appeared  to  answer  better  than  the  coal,  in 
keeping  up  the  force  of  the  engine  and  driving  us 
forward. 

3d.     The  harbour  of  Marseilles  was  in  sight  this 
morning,  soon  after  dayhght.     The  entrance  of  the 


GENOA  TO  MARSEILLES.  519 

port  is  exceedingly  romantic,  with  high  hills  on  each 
side,  and  an  island  in  front,  which  excludes  the  view 
of  the  town,  until  we  arrive  at  the  opening  of  the 
basin,  around  which  the  city  is  built.    The  sun  peeped 
over  the  eastern  ridge  as  we  made  our  entrance  into 
the  harbour.     Our  sraoking  progress  soon  excited  the 
gaze  and  wonder  of  the  numerous  pilots,  fishermen, 
and  others  who  were  moving  about  in  their  light  barks 
in  the  outer  road.     Several  of  them  were  speedily 
along  side  of  us,  and  if  the  effect  of  novelty  and  asto- 
nishment on  the  countenances  of  others,  can  give  plea- 
sure to  the  observer,  ours  was  that  gratification.    We 
overtook  a  large  sloop  loaded  with  lumber,  and  the 
wind  being  ahead,  they  desired  permission  to  make 
fast  to   us.      This  was  readily  granted,   and  others 
availing  themselves  also  of  the  liberty,  we  passed  the 
fort  and  entered  the  town  with  a  long  train  at  our 
sides  and  heels.     The  shore,  the  quays,  the  windows 
of  the  houses,  and  the  heights  around,  were  quickly 
lined  with  spectators,  eager  to  witness  our  appear- 
ance and  motion. 

The  port  of  Marseilles  is  strongly  fortified  next  the 
sea.  The  basin,  in  which  the  ships  lie,  is  in  the  heart 
of  the  town.  It  is  entered  by  a  narrow  passage,  easily 
shut  by  a  chain,  and  which  has  a  strong  fort  on  each 
side.  The  basin  will  contain,  it  is  said,  900  sail.  The 
hills  around  appear  barren  and  dreary.  We  anchored 
about  eight  a.  m.,  and  very  soon  received  a  troop  of 
visiters,  consisting  chiefly  of  portwardens,  or  such  as 
had  some  plea  of  right,  to  board  and  examine  us. 

This  passage  on  the  whole,  has  been  highly  gratify- 
ing to  us ;  and  if  this  steam-boat  were  under  good 
management — if  an  American  fedmpany'ha'J., the  con- 


520  STEAM-BOAT, — MARSEILLES. 

trol  of  her,  she  would  yield,  I  think,  in  a  short  time, 
a  handsome  profit  to  the  owners.     The  coast  of  the 
Mediterranean  from  Naples  to  Marseilles,  is  so  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful,  the  towns  and  villages  on  the 
margin  of  the  sea  so  numerous,  and  the  weather,  in 
general,  so  mild,  and  the  route  by  land  so  hazardous 
and  unpleasant,  1  cannot  but  believe  that  a  steam- 
boat conveyance  will  become  an  object  of  luxury, 
and  of  general  desire  to  travellers,  to  and  from  Italy; 
and  of  expedition  and  cheapness,  to  the  inhabitants 
along  the  coast.     But  without  a  more  intelligent  and 
able  direction  than  this  boat  has,  I  fear  the  period  is 
still  distant,   when  the    Mediterranean  steam-boats 
will  be  preferred  to  the  backs  of  mules,  the  tedious 
and  rugged  movements  of  the  diligence   or  voiture, 
or  the  miserable  accommodations  of  the  feluccas.    It 
has  been  to  me  a  singular,  and  unexpected  gratifica- 
tion, to  meet  with  such  a  conveyance  as  this,  precisely 
in  that  part  of  my  journey  where  I  had  anticipated 
the  greatest  difficulty.    The  coast,  through  the  greater 
part  of  the  distance  from  Genoa  to  Nice,  is  so  rugged 
as  to  forbid  the  use  of  carriages.     We  had  made  our 
calculations  accordingly,  either  to  return  to  Tortona 
by  the  rough  road,  on  which  we  had  already  crossed 
the  Appenines,  and   thence  proceed  by  Turin  and 
Mount  Cenis,  to  Lyons,  or  to  engage  mules  and  a 
a  muletteer,  to  carry  us  to  Nice.     Neither  of  these 
routes  presented  any  thing  in  prospect,  but  fatigue 
and  exposure.     The  occurrence  of  a  steam-boat  at 
Genoa  was,  therefore,  as  agreeable  as  unexpected. 


|:iYD.OF.VOL.  I. 


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DATE  BORROWED 

DATE  DUE 

APR  2  61949 

SEP  2  0  V. 

)S) 

FEBl 

5  1998 

MARn 

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IVInrv  [} 

UilUUL 

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fc'B2l> 

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C2e(23e)Mt00 

•COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 


0038873699 


34-0.  98 


asa/ 


Lr^v'!.'^^ 


